Re: Stus-List Lifeline Crimper

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 I used Tri Power hydraulics in Warwick for swedging. Don't know if they still 
do it.  
On Wednesday, May 9, 2018, 10:51:02 AM MDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Gary,
I bought a used Johnson Lifeline No 15 lever crimper on eBay for under $100 a 
few years back.  Has worked well for me.  None out there now but one sold a 
couple months ago for $118.
IMHO, the lever crimpers are much better than the ones you have to turn with a 
wrench.  For one thing, the small crimpers require you to do 5 crimps, the 
lever crimpers only 3.  You need to rotate the crimp 180 degrees for each crimp 
otherwise the fitting will have a slight curve.
A word of caution, a used crimper may be out of tolerance due to overuse or 
abuse.  
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 10:56 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I am in the process of replacing my lifelines and am looking to buy a crimper 
to crimp the Hayn studs and gate rings, etc.  Can anyone recommend a reasonably 
priced crimper?  I've seen crimpers from $69 to $477 and can't tell the 
difference.
GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C&C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


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Re: Stus-List New Mainsail

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 Hi Randy, Congrats on winning.
On Thursday, April 19, 2018, 5:48:29 PM EDT, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Hello Listers,
Just as an FYI / data point, I bought a new mainsail for Grenadine this 
offseason.  I couldn’t justify the cost of a pure racing sail made of exotic 
material, so my criteria were a general-purpose durable high-performance sail 
of the right weight for the winds at Chatfield Reservoir.  I ended up with a 
sail made by Hyde Sails from 7.38 Challenge Premium Dacron Sailcloth - High 
Mass Fiber Weave (~7.1 oz).
The sail was measured, designed, and ordered by a guy (Trey Hegstrom) in my 
yacht club and marina who does that as a side gig.  A picture, and 
specifications, are at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JdtqOpQx4VGs8yjkOC5xwUYJN_LUZrVb.  Cost me 
about $1,700.
And I’m hoping it’s a lucky charm, because we won the first race of the season 
last night by a country mile (mostly due to a good tactical decision at the 
start, I think).  Beat the fleet by some five minutes in a one-hour race.
Also I sent two of my headsails to Sailcare over the offseason, and was very 
pleased with that company and the results of their work on my sails.
Cheers,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, 
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Re: Stus-List Recent discussion regarding Federal v. State Boat Documentation

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 Very well put!

On Wednesday, February 7, 2018, 7:05:29 PM EST, Matthew L. Wolford via 
CnC-List  wrote:  
 
 Thanks for clarifying things, Bill – and sorry for apparently causing 
exasperation. Time to beat the dead horse: For those who understand what’s 
going on, it is not that complicated.  For those who do not, it is both 
complicated and confusing.  For example, your interpretation of the first 
bulleted sentence in the advertisement (or whatever it is) is based on your 
insight.  Frankly, if BoatUS meant to say a boat owner must not display State 
registration numbers on a federally documented boat, it should just say so.  
Instead, the ad – entitled “Boat Documentation Requirements” – initially 
suggests that a boat should be “identified” on the exterior of the hull as 
either State registered or federally documented, but not both.  This itself is 
confusing because it mixes apples and oranges (titling and registration).  
Moreover, a boat owner cannot use BoatUS graphics to “identify” a boat as 
either State registered or federally documented on the exterior of the hull.  A 
critical reader will discover several bullets later that a federal document 
number must be placed on the interior of the boat.  A less informed boater 
could easily conclude that a boat must be “identified” by its federal or State 
number somewhere on the exterior – using BoatUS graphics, of course. The ad 
concludes by noting: “Federal Vessel Documentation is a federal issue and is 
not open to enforcement or interpretation by the state.”  No legal advice 
there. From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2018 
12:04 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Bina - gmail Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Recent discussion regarding Federal v. State Boat Documentation 
This is true in all 50 states because it is a FEDERAL law. What the sentence 
means is that the boat must not display state registration numbers if it is 
documented. That is what they mean by "identified". This is not to say that 
states cannot require you to register the boat. They just cannot require a 
visible state registration number. They CAN display a sticker indicating that 
state fees and taxes have been paid. That is not a registration number. I live 
in Connecticut. My boat is Federally Documented and also registered in CT. The 
markings on the boat are the name, hailing port and a small sticker from the 
state that shows taxes and fees are current. Federal Documentation is the title 
for the boat, and Connecticut uses my Doc number as the registration number on 
the paperwork. No state is arguing about this, as it works just fine for all 
concerned, and has for a long time. Most, but not all, states require a state 
registration for Federally Documented boats. This is not a problem for anybody 
involved. People seem to tie themselves in knots over this. It is not even 
slightly complicated. BoatUS is not practicing law without a license, or 
drawing their own conclusions. They are just stating the laws as they plainly 
exist on the books.


Bill Bina


On 2/7/2018 11:40 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:

   I reviewed the first two bullet points from the BoatUS recital, and at least 
in PA they are not (or may not) be correct:
   - Vessels may only be identified as either a State Registered Vessel or a 
Federally Documented Vessel - NOT BOTH. 
     Not true in PA.  There is a difference between titling and registration.  
In PA, Federally documented boats are not required to be titled under the PA 
Fish and Boat Code (and, I believe, cannot be State titled).  However, they 
must be registered.  This change was made to the State statute in the 1990s and 
became effective on March 1, 1998.  Under the old requirements, federally 
documented boats were exempt from State registration.  Under the new 
requirements, federally documented boats used for recreational purpose must be 
registered.  As far as I know, no one has challenged this scheme, and I doubt a 
court would conclude that State registration requirements are preempted because 
they are help the State keep track of boats and are not in conflict with 
federal law regarding documentation.
   - When a vessel becomes federally Documented, the State Registration Numbers 
and Letters must be removed. 
     This I don’t know, but I suspect BoatUS is correct.  The reason is that 
federal law has requirements about how a federally documented boat must be 
identified.  To get around this issue, the PA Fish and Boat Commission requires 
decals (not State registration numbers) to be placed on the boat.  Most 
sailboat owners place the decal on the mast.       As we discussed in a 
previous thread about this issue, this is a complicated and unclear area of law 
which, not surprisingly, the U.S. Supreme Court has not addressed.  BoatUS 
would be wise not to give legal advice in promoting the sale of graphics.     



___

Thanks ever

Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Octopus Pump Repair (Northeast USA)

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 Same thing in RI. They wanted $750. Hydraulic shop did it for $45. 
On Sunday, January 28, 2018, 11:06:04 AM EST, Chuck S via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 
Hi Edd,

Suggest you take the pump and ram cylinders to a local hydraulics shop that 
works on back hoes, loaders and heavy equip.  It probably just needs new 
O-rings.  




I had a leaking seal on the backstay ram and another on the remote pump and the 
repair quote from a Navtec dealer for $750 with many disclaimers.  Took it to a 
local shop and they did the job for less than $15.  Said the O-rings cost them 
fifty cents each and there were only a few in each unit.   I had them bench 
test it to 4000# using their fluid and test gage and we let that sit for half 
an hour while I toured their little shop.  They have milling machines and drill 
presses and lathes and can make any part out of metal.  The pressure never 
dropped I was satisfied.  Don't know why they didn't charge me a minimum labor 
fee but they said it was the first sailboat system they had ever seen and asked 
me to spread the word.  I tipped them $20 for doughnuts and coffee.  No 
problems for 9 years now.




I would ask around for hydraulic repair shops near you and ask heavy equipment 
rental companies, "Who does your hydraulic repairs?"




Don't know who works there now or what they would charge now, but the company 
was:

 Cam Co, 1310 Havana Ave, Egg Harbor City, NJ 08215, 609-965-3766



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
On January 27, 2018 at 10:49 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers,
Anyone know of a good company in the Northeast USA that can repair an old 
Octopus hydraulic pump? I’d rather not ship it to Canada. 

All the best, 
Edd
---Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship 
Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, New 
Yorkwww.StarshipSailing.com---914.774.9767   | 
Mobile---Sent via iPhone XiPhone. iTypos. 
iApologize



 

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Re: Stus-List Glow plug replacement

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 Before you go do all that work and expense test the glow plugs. Use a digital 
laser thermometer and with a cold engine activate the glow plugs. Maybe even do 
it twice. Aim the laser thermometer at each glow plug. If you see any temp rise 
that glow plug is working. Glow plugs are 100% or 0% working. there is no 
inbetween. For $20. at Amazon.   
https://www.amazon.com/Lasergrip-Non-contact-Thermometer-Temperature-58%E2%84%89-716%E2%84%89/dp/B071NM73DX/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1509314848&sr=8-8&keywords=Digital+Laser+Thermometer
On Sunday, October 29, 2017, 2:54:58 PM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 I was talking to a friend today who had been working on our club launch and 
had replaced the glow plugs to fix a problem with poor starting.  I have never 
thought about replacing the glow plugs which I can only assume are original to 
the boat/engine (27 year old Universal M4-30).  I haven’t looked yet, but from 
the manual they appear to be on the starboard side and the engine is only 
accessible from the front and port side.  Has anyone done this job?  I am 
guessing it is pretty trivial if you have top access and pretty challenging if 
you don’t.  Is this something that one can expect should need replacing on a 27 
year old engine?  Dave
Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 Went through Moyers years ago. Absolutely great stuff. A short cut for 
ignition problems is an induction timing light. You have spark or you don't. 
Can't wait to find out what is wrong.Michael
On Thursday, September 21, 2017, 7:30:46 PM MDT, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 If the fuel hose is original replace it to - the inner wall can collapse and 
starve the engine ... 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2017 6:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 You could do a short crank and stop then CAREFULLY feel the starters cables 
for heat(don't forget the ground).  Intermittent no crank could also be inside 
the starter solenoid. One more thing on the no start but cranking. If you are 
still using a distributor with points the symptom you are giving sounds like  a 
bad condenser. I used to have a 12v engine analyzer scope. It was wicked good 
at solving these kinds of problem. Good luck.Michael Cotton
On Thursday, September 21, 2017, 5:09:54 PM MDT, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Glad you found the problem.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/21/17 15:40 (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Randy Stafford  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out 
Update on this - went down to the boat today, pulled plugs, changed oil.  No 
sign whatsoever of water in the engine.  Then on testing, she started right up, 
ran smoothly at idle for several minutes, then shut down suddenly.  And 
wouldn’t restart after a few short cranking attempts (with raw water intake 
closed).  From that I was relieved that the starter and solenoid and starter 
circuit were working, and the ignition circuits.

Per Occam’s Razor I removed and inspected the fuel petcock, as it’s been 
troublesome this year (it became increasingly difficult to turn, then suddenly 
easier to turn, hmmm…).  I believe it to be the culprit.  It was stuck in what 
appeared to be a closed position, and turning its handle didn’t change that.  I 
suspect it may have been just open enough to allow the fuel line to fill, given 
enough time.  But once the engine consumed the fuel in the line, it wasn’t open 
enough to keep supplying the engine.

I bought a new fuel shut-off valve from West Marine and will install it 
tomorrow and report back.  As for my starter not working Sunday when I pushed 
the button, I’ll let that remain a mystery unless it happens again.  Maybe I 
didn’t have the ignition switch pulled out far enough when I pressed the button.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 8:29 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
> to share.
> 
> When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
> then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
> flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
> ensuring the petcock was in the open position and the tank was full, she 
> started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
> out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
> couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
> happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t 
> have enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though 
> my other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled 
> the batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 
> volts and 83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% 
> and 12.9 volts.
> 
> So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
> circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
> as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
> start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
> step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
> hypotheses.
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 301- #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 I had an ignition coil fail on  my A4. It would start and run then cut out. 
Sometimes restart sometimes not.  A coil replacement corrected the problem. 
On Monday, September 18, 2017, 5:38:28 PM MDT, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
  
Might try checking the ground on the engine.  Mine had that problem a number of 
years ago, taking it off and cleaning it up
 solved the problem.  Of course mine is a diesel and yours is gas, but I would 
expect that the ground would be wired similarly.
 Food for thought.
 
 
 On 9/18/2017 8:15 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:
  
 
 Hi Doug, 
  No noise whatsoever when I pushed the starter button.  It was as if there 
wasn’t enough current to activate the starter, but the batteries *did* have 
enough charge at the time. 
  Cheers, Randy 

 On Sep 18, 2017, at 3:08 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List  
wrote: 
  
 Randy, Are you getting any noise out of starter (click) when trying to start? 
Even if you are hydro locked you should hear a click at the starter solenoid if 
electrics are good.  Check the coil for cracks, check points and condenser, or 
electronic pick-up, ignition switch for loose/bad connections.   Good luck.  
  
  
   Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Doug Mountjoy  POYC  Pegasus (for sale)  
Lf38  Rebecca Leah LF39  
    Original message  From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
  Date: 9/18/17 07:29 (GMT-08:00)  To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  Cc: Randal Stafford   
Subject: Stus-List A4 Cutting Out  
   Listers-
 
 I’m having a problem with my Atomic 4, and hoped you might have some thoughts 
to share.
 
 When I went out for a sail yesterday, she started right up, as always.  But 
then she cut out heading away from the marina.  Initially I suspected a fuel 
flow problem, as the petcock on the tank has become difficult to turn.  After 
ensuring the petcock was in the open  position and the tank was full, she 
started right up again and ran smoothly for a good 10 minutes.  Then she cut 
out again, and wouldn’t start back up after some cranking.  I sailed for a 
couple hours anyway.  When I tried to start her to come back in, nothing 
happened when I pressed the starter button.  I assumed my batteries didn’t have 
enough amperage for the starter, after all the previous cranking, though my 
other electronics were running fine.  So I docked under sail power, pulled the 
batteries, and brought them home to charge.  They both tested at 12.7 volts and 
83% charge when I put them on my charger.  Now they’re both at 100% and 12.9 
volts.
 
 So I now suspect a faulty ignition circuit, and possibly a faulty starter 
circuit.  Perhaps a loose connection or broken wire is having the same effect 
as pushing in the ignition switch.  I’ve yet to get into the lazarette and 
start tracing the wiring and testing with a multimeter, but that’s my next 
step.  I thought I’d write the list first to see if anyone has any quick 
hypotheses.
 
 Thanks in Advance,
 Randy Stafford
 S/V Grenadine
 C&C 301- #7
 Ken Caryl, CO
 ___
 
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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
  
 ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 -- 
 Boat_SigCheers,
     Jeff Nelson
     Muir Caileag
     C&C 30
     Armdale Y.C.
     Halifax
  

|  | Virus-free. www.avast.com  |

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Re: Stus-List Riggers in Annapolis

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 About 10 years ago I used Annapolis rigging in Herrington harbor North. It was 
a very negative experience.
On Monday, September 18, 2017, 1:30:51 PM MDT, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 I got 3 quotes for standing rigging replacement (rod),  mast and boom strip 
and paint. 2 were for 19000, 1 was for 12000. M Yachts, Annapolis Rigging, and 
the Rigging Company, not in that order.Any experience with any of the three?

S/V La Neige
1993 C&C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon___

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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic Hoses - C&C 37+

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Go to Tri-Power in Warwick. 

On Monday, June 5, 2017 2:38 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I had a rigger replace 
the two hydraulic hoses for the Navtec backstays.  The shop he used seems 
pretty expensive.  Is there anything special about the hoses?  What have others 
paid for these hoses?  Regards,RonRon RicciS/V PatriotC&C 37+Bristol, 
riron.ri...@1968.usna.com    ___

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Re: Stus-List Forward looking Sonar Question

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

>From my experience, I'd be very careful with Raymarine.  

On Saturday, April 22, 2017 2:01 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Hello all!
Apologies! It’s been a while and I forgot to change the subject.

This is a voice from the past with a question:
I am preparing to do an electronics refit on a 1987 C&C 30. The owner is very 
keen to install forward looking sonar as he does a lot of gunk holing and wants 
to keep the hull holing to a minimum.
We are currently mulling Raymarine as the primary system supplier, but they do 
not have the forward looking technology readily available. Garmin and EchoPilot 
do.
http://www.echopilot.com/products/echopilot-platinum-engine/.
Is there any experience out there with forward looking sonar and possibly 
integrating  a system with Raymarine?

Rich Knowles
Halifax, NS
C&C Alumnus


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|  | Pay Stuart Murray using PayPal.Mewww.paypal.meGo to paypal.me/stumurray 
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Painting -- Anyone Spray?

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Except boat speed. 

On Friday, February 24, 2017 8:04 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I'm guessing the prep and protection when would easily eat up any time saved 
by spraying.  Rolling is pretty quick work.
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" 
 Date: 2/24/17 3:06 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker"  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Bottom Painting -- Anyone Spray? 
We had a jerk paint about 4 boats near him one time that way.  Big mess!It's OK 
I guess, if you put up the proper surrounds to stop the mist, but you still 
take a risk with your own topsides.Also I heard that some paints like VC 17 dry 
too quick for a good job; poor adhesion.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 To: C&C List  
Cc: Edd Schillay 
 Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2017 12:14 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Bottom Painting -- Anyone Spray?
  
Listers,
I’m considering the idea of spray-painting my bottom paint this season with my 
usual Petit Vivid bottom paint (I know a thinner is needed to apply).
Has anyone done this? I’m looking to see some time and energy, but am concerned 
about wasting paint, accidentally painting the topsides, or painting someone 
else’s boat or nearby car. 
Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. It’s 67 degrees in New 
York right now and I’m getting the itch. 

All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log





 




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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Was that Tri-Power in Warwick? 

On Friday, December 30, 2016 12:49 PM, David via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 #yiv7345346783 #yiv7345346783 -- P 
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}#yiv7345346783 I took mine to a truck repair  
shop after I paid a "Navtec Approved" repair shop $500 only have it fail again 
in 14 months...no warranty so I was stuck with another large bill.   Didnt 
trust the repair so before going offshore brought it to the truck shop to 
inspect and test.   What cost $500 would have cost $100 there.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7 My original Navtec is in the 
shop right now. The highest price estimated was $500 but both my rigger and the 
hydraulic guy said that would be worst case scenario. For cost comparison 
purposes I asked if getting a new adjuster made sense and the rigger said 
repair was the way to go. Which was my choice. The rigger did recommend Sailtec 
as really good units.
Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit

On Dec 30, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Replacing the seals is ~ $300 and any decent hydraulic shop can do it. If the 
piston sleeve is scored (unlikely), its junk. Otherwise, a seal replacement 
makes it perform like new. Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb 
cenel...@aol.com
  -Original Message-
From: Dave via CnC-List 
To: John McKay 
Cc: Dave ; cnc-list 
Sent: Fri, Dec 30, 2016 10:02 am
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Navtec 10 Series 7

John, have taken the liberty of forwarding this to the Cnc list.


Subject: Re: Navtec 10 Series 7



John,
When you say failed, I assume that you mean the seals now don't.If so, Plenty 
of industrial hydraulics places in the GTA - would expect they could fix?  
FYI - windstar (33-2) has no hydraulic adjuster, and if I understand correctly 
the baby stay is intended used to control mast bend, similar to backstab 
adjuster.  Perhaps the adjuster was an 'owner-upgrade'?  Did the PO happen to 
include the original part?  (Look for a 1/2" stainless rod around 12" and 
toggles etc...)
Good luck, dave.

Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 30, 2016, at 9:35 AM, John McKay  wrote:




The Navtec backstay adjuster failed on Enterprise this summer.
I know South Shore can repair it but it is a fairly expensive repair and 
searching on the net, most say a repair does not last that long.
Has anyone replaced their adjuster?
With what?
Approximate cost?
Or if repaired, where?
Guys around my yacht club says it is an easy fix, but they are mechanically 
inclined!
Thanks and Happy New Years
John on EnterpriseKomoka





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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Backstay Inspection/Improvements

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

I had A '90 37+. Port backstay failed in 20 to 25 kts of wind with a reefed 
main and a 135% headsail.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 30, 2016, at 10:54 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have also heard rumors of delamination issues with the Kevlar hull on 
> 37+/40's.  While this seems to be a remote potential issue, it's  worth 
> checking too.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
>> On Dec 30, 2016, at 8:57 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> ---
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 11:48:18 -0500
>> From: Edd Schillay 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Backstay Inspection/Improvements
>> Message-ID: <65dcc603-b5a5-4cdb-a129-0def3a20f...@schillay.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I?ve heard of one person on the list who had a problem. 
>> 
>> I?ve had the Enterprise for 11 years now and don?t see any signs of wear, 
>> and I have hydraulics, as well as used to race the boat pretty hard at 
>> times. 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Dec 30, 2016, at 10:57 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Bruce
>>> 
>>> There is an access hatch behind the headliner in the main stateroom that 
>>> you can crawl through.  I have heard similar concerns.  I suspect it is 
>>> mostly from boats with hydraulic backstay adjustments that have been raced 
>>> hard.  
>>> 
>>> Not sure if anyone on this list has had a problem.  I haven't, but my boat 
>>> is a total cream puff cruiser that has never been raced and does not have 
>>> adjustable back stays.
>>> 
>>> Tom B
>>> 
>>> Tom Buscaglia
>>> S/V Alera 
>>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>>> Vashon WA
>>> P 206.463.9200
>>> C 305.409.3660
>>> 
>>> 
 On Dec 30, 2016, at 7:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:
 
 Message: 4
 Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 14:05:18 + (UTC)
 From: Bruce Whitmore >>> >
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
 Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ Backstay Inspection/Improvements
 Message-ID: <402249788.3745481.1483106718...@mail.yahoo.com 
 >
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
 
 Hello all,
 We are interested in the C&C 37/40s, and saw a comment that the backstay 
 attachments should be closely inspected.? Can anyone advise how to get to 
 the backside of the backstay attachments?? It seemed (albeit based on a 
 brief check), that accessing them from the cockpit lockers would be 
 difficult, and I did not see an access point down below.? 
 
 
 I'm sure I'm just overlooking it...
 Also, what is the best way to reinforce these attachments - larger backing 
 plates??? Anyone here do this, or will a simple inspection do the job with 
 the idea that reinforcement isn't needed if we aren't over-stressing the 
 rig?
 
 Thanks in advance!?
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Sun Electric in Miami. The best prices on panels and controllers. I have a 500 
watt system. 2 250watt Sharp panels and an Outback MTTP controller. It runs 
everything except the AC. The panels were .51 cents per watt and the controller 
was $495. I used 6061-T6 aluminium tubing 2" dia.  The supports came from 
Garhauer. Total cost was about $1100.Michael Cotton 

On Thursday, December 1, 2016 9:14 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 

 #yiv9669823308 #yiv9669823308 -- _filtered #yiv9669823308 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 
4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv9669823308 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 
4 3 2 4;}#yiv9669823308 #yiv9669823308 p.yiv9669823308MsoNormal, #yiv9669823308 
li.yiv9669823308MsoNormal, #yiv9669823308 div.yiv9669823308MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv9669823308 a:link, 
#yiv9669823308 span.yiv9669823308MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9669823308 a:visited, #yiv9669823308 
span.yiv9669823308MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9669823308 p 
{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv9669823308 
span.yiv9669823308m-5591912520881128876moz-smiley-s8 {}#yiv9669823308 
span.yiv9669823308EmailStyle19 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv9669823308 
.yiv9669823308MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv9669823308 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 
1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv9669823308 div.yiv9669823308WordSection1 {}#yiv9669823308 That 
is ALL panels. NONE of them provide full power at 12 volts. If you want to see 
50 watts, you need a MPPT controller that is essentially a DC-DC converter. 
Running my cheaper PWM controller I never get the full 50. Joe Coquina    From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2016 09:06
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?    Clearly renogy is 
providing nominal values for marketing purposes.  You can't fit all of the 
specs in the amazon headline.     Josh    On Dec 1, 2016 7:54 AM, "Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List"  wrote: 
Renogy is not very honest about output. 50 watts at 12 volts is fuzzy math for 
this panel, whose output is really almost 19 volts. Output should be stated at 
the working output voltage. That is more like a 30 watt panel when comparing to 
other brands whose quality factor includes truth. =-O Bill Bina    On 12/1/2016 
8:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: 
This is mine: 
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480598077&sr=8-1&keywords=50+watt+solar+panel
   50 watts - $80. I have had no issues at all with it. Joe Coquina      

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Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 27, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I agree.But just like with Navigation, there are some great navigators, 
> but nearly everyone else relies on technology.
> 
> Here is a nice YouTube video showing some docking gymnastics via an Optimus 
> joystick controlled electronic helm:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oU26ALSLQw
> 
> 
> That said (and seen), I have been totally amazed by the skills of some of the 
> old salts in my area controlling their old wooden shrimp boats 
> as if they had some high fangled high tech gadgets.
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Oct 27, 2016, at 10:10 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Message-ID:
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I agree.  Some skippers demonstrate great seamanship.
>> 
>> Then there's the joy of a well equipped boat.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Simrad WP30

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

That's an old one. I had one when they were new. It was terrible. I think I had 
it about a week when I was 1/4 mile off a beach. It was a clear day, no other 
boat traffic around, so I went below to make coffee. About 3  minutes later I 
heard the auto pilot engage for a long time. It turned the boat 90 degrees 
directly towards the beach! When I called their tech support they advised me 
not to operate it close to shore because some garage door openers could cause a 
course change! Additionally It never would steer an acceptable straight 
line.Good luck with it,Michael CottonS?V M'aisling 

On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 12:14 PM, Gerry via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  I have WP30 Autopilot I removed form my C&C 35 mk3.It came with the boat, not 
sure how well it worked but if you need any parts this could save you a bundle 
of money and time.
Let me know if anyone has interest.
Gerry Fennessey35MK3 Fianna

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Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

This is sailing in the Rocky Mountain region. Their sailing rules are quite 
different from anywhere else I've sailed. I sailed there for a few years. Prior 
to coming to Colorado I sailed under YRALIS (Long Island Sound) and NBYA 
(Narragansett Bay) rules for over 20 years. Not surprised a hand held  whisker 
pole is legal under Rocky Mountain sailing. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 6, 2016, at 2:24 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The US Sailing rules reference the ISAF Equipment Rules of Sailing.
> ERS defines a spinnaker pole in F.1.4 (d) (i) as:
> 
> > A spar attached to the mast spar to set a spinnaker.
> 
> Similarly a whisker pole as:
> 
> > A spar attached to the mast spar and a headsail clew.
> 
> So while the US Sailing rules do not mention the mast attachment
> point it is covered by the ERS definition of a spinnaker ( or whisker ) pole.
> 
> 
> I take the interpretation ( which may differ by region ) that the broad
> meaning of an outrigger is anything projecting past the hull or deck
> used to push out a sheet or sail. That would include hands, feet,
> boat hooks, fishing rods or a pole not attached to the mast.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
> 
> Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2016 09:45:29 -0400 
> From: "Gary Nylander"  
> To:  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut 
> Message-ID: <004f01d1efe8$cb7cf430$6276dc90$@atlanticbb.net> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" 
> 
> Our (Chesapeake) PHRF rules do state - must be attached to the mast, must be 
> less than J length without penalty. No hand holding a stick... 
> 
> 
> 
> Gary 
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, August 5, 2016 8:03 PM 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard  
> Subject: Stus-List Finally Won a Race now reaching strut 
> 
> 
> 
> The boat hook:  We only do it in really light winds 0-4 knots, were talking 
> glassy water on the lake.  It's a cinch do undo and it's a cinch to hold.   
> 
> We do sail under US Sailing rules and there are no stipulation whatsoever 
> about the length of the pole, it's attachment to the mast, or position of 
> the crew as long as we are inside the lifelines. I'm not trying to argue 
> against local rules as I have seen rules for other areas on the web where 
> there were mentions of attachment to the mast etc. On the lake, we don't use 
> local interpretation of the rules, we go strictly by the US Sailing / ISAF 
> document. 
> 
> Here's the actual rule from the ISAF 2013- 2016 document: 
> 
> Rule 50.3 Use of Outriggers 
> 
> (a) No sail shall be sheeted over or through an outrigger, except as 
> permitted in rule 50.3(b) or 50.3(c). An outrigger is any fitting or other 
> device so placed that it could exert outward pressure on a sheet or sail at 
> a point from which, with the boat upright, a vertical line would fall 
> outside the hull or deck. For the purpose of this rule, bulwarks, rails and 
> rubbing strakes are not part of the hull or deck and the following are not 
> outriggers: a bowsprit used to secure the tack of a sail, a bumkin used to 
> sheet the boom of a sail, or a boom of a boomed headsail that requires no 
> adjustment when tacking. 
> 
> (b) Any sail may be sheeted to or led above a boom that is regularly used 
> for a sail and is permanently attached to the mast from which the head of 
> the sail is set. 
> 
> (c) A headsail may be sheeted or attached at its clew to a spinnaker pole or 
> whisker pole, provided that a spinnaker is not set. 
> 
> Important part being part "C" Spinnaker pole or whisker pole but no mention 
> of it's description, attachment,  or position of the crew.  I guess someone 
> could argue that a boat hook is not a proper whisker pole.  Quite a few of 
> us do it on the lake and no one cares. As long a I don't get a protest:  In 
> 0-3 knots I don't see any great danger, you can hold it one handed.. It's 
> simply a matter of convenience and ease of use. Also it's much quicker / 
> easier to change the depth / angle of  a portable pole instead of a heavy 
> thing attached to the mast, especially in extremely light winds where any 
> sudden move of the crew can upset the sailplan and kill your ever so slight 
> apparent wind. 
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, here's the actual rule on the crew: 
> 
> CREW POSITION; LIFELINES 49.1 Competitors shall use no device designed to 
> position their bodies outboard, other than hiking straps and stiffeners worn 
> under the thighs. 
> 
> 49.2 When lifelines are required by the class rules or the sailing 
> instructions they shall be taut, and competitors shall not position any Part 
> 4 OTHER REQUIREMENTS WHEN RACING 28 part of their torsos outside them, 
> except briefly to perform a necessary task. On boats equipped with upper and 
> lower lifelines, a competitor sitting on the deck facing outboard with his 
> waist inside the lower lifeline may have

Re: Stus-List Friday Night Rescue

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

 I sailed Chatfield for a few years. They seem to have their own rules for 
navigation. VHF 16 has no value, orange flags all over the place( we just 
finished a year of cruising from Md to New England then to the Bahamas and Key 
West, never saw an orange flag). Orange flags are for extreme emergencies. 
Sailboats have to give way to a trolling power boat. It's a weird place to 
sail. 

On Monday, June 13, 2016 4:35 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Way to go, Randy!

Everyone who sails in cold water should know the 1-10-1 rule:  When you first 
enter the water, you have one minute to catch your breath, before you might 
pass out.  The shock of entering cold water can take your breath away, and 
leave you gasping for air.  You have about ten minutes before your muscles can 
no longer help you get back onto your boat.  You have about an hour before you 
might die from hypothermia.

Also, keep in mind that when you use a Life Sling, when you pass by the person 
in  the water, you have to be close to him/her for the sling to be within reach.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Jun 13, 2016 at 1:17 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  
wrote:

Just a little story to share with you all.
Went out for a leisure sail Friday evening with my daughter her friend, in 
Beaufort 4 or 5 conditions.  We sailed under main only, and there was a 15" 
whitecap chop on the water.  Hardly any boats on the lake, but one windsurfer 
really hauling ass.
Out in the middle of the lake, we heard some yelling, and looked around to see 
three PFD-less people standing on a small low fiberglass fishing boat that was 
going down by the stern.  I barely had time to say "shit, they're sinking."  
Next time I looked, the boat was gone, and the people were in the water amongst 
various debris.  There were no other boats in the vicinity and I realized we 
were going to have to rescue them as quickly as we could.
Started my Atomic-4 without running the blower first, luffed my main, drove to 
them, and threw out my life sling.  Had to circle them three or four times 
dragging the life sling line by them, before we could get them all pulled in 
and aboard via the swim ladder.  I missed on the first try or two just due to 
the wind and water conditions and my main flogging.  One of them was about 30 
yards from the other two, who told me to get the lone guy first.  By the time 
we got the other two aboard, they'd been in the 68-degree water probably ten 
minutes.
Dropped the main, drove to the marina, docked at the launch ramp, and called 
911 for the first guy at the request of the second one.  I think he was very 
intoxicated or high on something.  He was incoherent and unable to move his 
body well, and it wasn't from exhaustion.  Plus his friends told me to get him 
first, so they must have known something.
Anyway, couple lessons learned.  First, my life sling line was not already tied 
off with the life sling in the bag.  It should have been.  Had to tell my 
daughter's friend to tie it off before throwing it out.  Second, in all the 
chaos we forgot to give them blankets when we got them aboard.  One went below 
and my daughter gave them all towels, but they were all at least very cold if 
not in the beginning stages of hypothermia.  Third, don't expect the Chatfield 
State Park rangers to respond to a mayday hail on VHF 16 - I hailed as soon as 
I grasped what was happening, to no avail.
It was lucky that I was in the right place at the right time.  There were no 
other boats around.  These three were too far in the middle of the lake to swim 
to shore and I don't know if they could have given the conditions (including 
theirs).  And I'm glad we were able to get a line to them before having to 
witness any of them drowning.  Couldn't have done without my daughter and her 
friend (both 22-ish) - that would have been too much for me to manage alone.
After we unloaded them, filed our statements, put the boat away, and drove 
home, we toasted the good things in life with many dark & stormies and 
whitecaps.  I'd never seen anything like that before, and I hope I don't have 
to again.
Best Regards,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List Annapolis yard recommendations?

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

My experiences with Atlantic Spars was not good. 

On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 10:27 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Not very convenient, but Herrington Harbor North has excellent trades on site. 
 Atlantic Spars for rigging and rudders, Osprey for fiberglass.  Plenty of 
mechanics as well.
Jabins would be closer but more expensive.
Whitehall Marina has a good reputation but I have not used them.
JoelAnnapolisHylas 44Atlantis
On Tue, May 10, 2016 at 10:17 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I am looking to have some fairly major work done to my 37/40 this summer.
Rudder removal/ repair, rigging inspection replacement, keel stub 
inspection/repair, engine inspection/ rebuild, Awlgrip repair. 
Has anyone had work done on the Upper Chesapeake? I am located in Havre de 
Grace but willing to go where the work is reliable.
My plan is to prepare the boat for offshore sailing. 
Any first hand experience with yards is appreciated.
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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Furler system

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Defender had Pro Furl for $850. 

On Tuesday, January 5, 2016 7:40 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

  If you are reasonably handy then you can install it.  Best to drop the mast, 
but it can be done mast up if you can keep the forestay.  And keeping the 
forestay will depend on what furler you go with, I've got a Harken cruising 
unit #1, had to change the forestay when I installed it.
 
 I'd go with a new sail, but then it is really easy to recommend to someone 
else that they spend their money...  
 Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11 On 2016-01-05 10:24 PM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
  
 I have mostly light winds here in Beaufort SC. So out to 150% or at least a 
135% would be best. But, Can I install it? do I keep my forstay? 
   
 On Tue, Jan 5, 2016 at 9:11 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
Congrats! My 2 cents: 
  15 - 25 year old sails are shot.  I don't know what your wind conditions are 
like, but I would buy a Harken furler and a good Dacron sail that covers most 
of your wind conditions.    Partially furled sails are not great upwind, but 
are fine for cruising. It will cost several hundred dollars each to convert the 
old sails.  You might be better off picking up a used #3 and converting the #1 
or vice versa depending on condition. You can stay within your budget if you 
shop around.   If you are happy with the sock, keep it. 
  Joel.  
 
 On Tuesday, January 5, 2016, Curtis via CnC-List  wrote:
 
  I have the approval from the admiral to purchase a new sail and furler system 
for my C&C30MK1.  1981 1/4 ss wire Any advise on how or what to buy? I have no 
Idea how to proceed. I have a 115% 135% and a 170%. all hank on sails.  I have 
a asymmetrical in a sock as well.  My budget needs to be around or below $4, to 
5 grand. I'm looking for advise on the complete package. 1) can I install it? 
2) how do I know what to buy? I sail local with fun club racing? 3) my sails 
are all from the 1980's and 1990's? Throw them out and buy new? 3) Asy furler? 
Thanks for your help 
  
  Capt,Curtis McDaniel   Dataw island Marina 843-838-8410 Office 
http://www.datawmarina.com/
  
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
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  -- 
 Best regards, Curtis McDaniel, 
  C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
  Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/    cpt.b...@gmail.com    __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 20, 2015, at 8:12 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David
>  
> Is your insurance up to date and premium paid??  A hard grounding that 
> removes lead is by definition a serious stress on the keel and associated 
> hull structure and needs to be addressed.  Suggest you immediately file a 
> claim and have a reputable fiberglass guy inspect your keel, sump, 
> surrounding hull and interior.  Get whatever needs to be fixed fixed and be 
> confident in your boat’s integrity.  Remember that a crack shows something 
> has in fact failed – the only question is how bad??  Arguably the best 
> fiberglass guy in these parts is Nick Sahin at Fort Rachel
>  
> Best of luck
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 10:13 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List Keel repair
>  
> Aries is now finally out of the water and I had a chance to survey the damage 
> to the keel from my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I actually 
> received a special award from the Race Committee for going up on the ledge 
> during a race and needing to be towed off.  In my defense, the marker buoy 
> was 100 yards from where it was supposed to be and the Coast Guard 
> repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.  
> The front edge of the keel is well smashed in over about a 6 inch area where 
> it looks like the lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I would pound it 
> back into shape and then smooth, but that does not look possible now that I 
> see it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested using Marine Tex epoxy 
> putty to fill in the missing volume and then smooth (angle grinder?)  I am 
> hoping that the experts on this list can give me some guidance as to how to 
> tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
> www.avast.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Jell-O shots taste much better.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2015, at 10:26 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Waste of good liquor.  Like Andrew said, might damage something.
> 
> Lots of substances will lower the freezing point of water.  Salt will take it 
> down to -6F if fully saturated.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Mon, Oct 26, 2015 at 7:20 PM, John Russo via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after draining as 
>> an alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when using hot water. The 
>> drain in not quite positioned at the bottom of the tank so there is always 
>> some residual water left in the tank and although I leave the drain valve 
>> open for expansion I am concerned that any freezing could damage the tank 
>> connections. Any advice would be appreciated.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> Arpeggio C&C 32
>> 
>> Norwalk, CT
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Flush well and enjoy the Jell-O shots

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 26, 2015, at 9:12 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've asked this same question and the answer is that the alcohol will damage 
> rubber parts in the system. So we have to flush well in the spring.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Oct 26, 2015, at 20:20, John Russo via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after draining as 
>> an alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when using hot water. The 
>> drain in not quite positioned at the bottom of the tank so there is always 
>> some residual water left in the tank and although I leave the drain valve 
>> open for expansion I am concerned that any freezing could damage the tank 
>> connections. Any advice would be appreciated.
>>  
>> John
>> Arpeggio C&C 32
>> Norwalk, CT
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List boat names

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

A follow up on TBD, "Tango Delta Bravo""Mike Cotton 


 On Thursday, September 17, 2015 11:00 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   

 A fellow here couldn't think of a name, so he called it TDB (to be 
determined).RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk II for sale

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Gary, Congrats on buying Ron's boat. I would think Expresso will sell quickly 
at that (surprisingly) low price. I think a C&C 37+ is a spectacular boat for 
Narragansett Bay.Michael 


 On Thursday, June 25, 2015 5:41 PM, - - via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   

  Engine?
IIRC they came with an A4 or a 4 cylinder diesel made from an old MG block by 
Westerbeke.

Joe
Coquina

On June 25, 2015 at 4:14 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

Don't tell anyone, but it's named after my wife.  S!
Gary
~~~_/)~~


On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 9:21 AM, David Lenehan via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Garry,

Congratulations on the new boat.  Kind of chuckled when I saw the name of your 
new love.  Certainly that would be the absolute truth until the old one has 
been sold but hopefully not thereafter.

David

On 25 June 2015 at 21:23, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

Well, my C&C 35 k II is for sale.  Expresso is on Yachtworld.  She is one of 
the best around.  She has modern electronics (Comnav / Nexus), radar, below 
deck autopilot, new Ultraleather interior with memory foam, new paint job 2010, 
carbon fiber main and 142% genoa, etc.  She is priced to sell.  The add on 
Yachtworld is still being completed but can be seen at:
http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/C%26C-35-MkII-2855801/RI/United-States#.VYvjP_lViko

She is very fast and well loved.  She was first overall in the Newport Yacht 
Club Mitchell Regatta last year
Why am I doing this?  I just bought a C&C 37 Plus.
GaryS/V Expresso and S/V High MaintenanceEast Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

The "oil canning" was near the water line on the stbd side. What I remember of 
that boat Ron was always playing with the throttle to minimize engine 
vibrations. I did not have that problem on mine.
Good luck with your purchase.
Michael 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 14, 2015, at 7:56 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike,
>  Yes, that is the boat I am looking at, so we will pay special attention 
> to those areas.
> Best regards,
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:40 AM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Gary, Yes they are cored below the waterline. Additionally pay careful 
>> attention to the backstay chainplates. They are a known weak spot.  One of 
>> mine failed. One more thing, remove one of the draw assemblies on the port 
>> side in the stateroom to inspect the tableing between the bulkhead and hull. 
>> It is only a couple of inches of tableing every couple of feet. I remember 
>> Ron Lacrix's having some "oil canning" where the forward bulkhead attached 
>> to the stbd side hull. I was a a part owner on a '90 C&C 37+ CB. I'll be 
>> frank. I would not buy the boat again. I think the hull is weak. 
>> Michael Cotton
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:46 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I am in the process of buying a 1990 C&C 37 Plus.  Is the hull cored below 
>> the waterline?  I know it's cored above the WL.
>> 
>> Gary
>> S/V Expresso
>> '75 C&C 35 Mk II
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Cored Hull

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

   
   - Hi Gary, Yes they are cored below the waterline. Additionally pay careful 
attention to the backstay chainplates. They are a known weak spot.  One of mine 
failed. One more thing, remove one of the draw assemblies on the port side in 
the stateroom to inspect the tableing between the bulkhead and hull. It is only 
a couple of inches of tableing every couple of feet. I remember Ron Lacrix's 
having some "oil canning" where the forward bulkhead attached to the stbd side 
hull. I was a a part owner on a '90 C&C 37+ CB. I'll be frank. I would not buy 
the boat again. I think the hull is weak.    

   - Michael Cotton
 


 On Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:46 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   

 I am in the process of buying a 1990 C&C 37 Plus.  Is the hull cored below the 
waterline?  I know it's cored above the WL.
GaryS/V Expresso'75 C&C 35 Mk IIEast Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~


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Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Many years ago I had a new autopilot and was cruising parallel to Northport 
beach.  Looked around, all clear and I went below to make coffee.  Several 
minutes later I heard the autopilot engage and it made a 90 degree turn 
directly toward the beach! Of course this was a Sunday so tech support was 
unavailable. Monday I called tech support and was told not to use the autopilot 
closer than 2 miles from shore because garage door openers can cause it to 
change course!! I didn't get a beep, beep, beep, wish I had.Michael CottonS/V 
M'aislingNAS Pax River marina, Md
 

 On Tuesday, December 2, 2014 7:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   

 Reminds me when I anchored one summer evening behind Charles Island, 
Connecticut side of Long Island Sound and in the morning I was awakened by 
men's voices talking and laughing like they were right next to my boat.  I 
thought we dragged anchor!  I lept on deck and checked my bearings to find we 
were on station.  I rechecked the charts and saw an ismuth that ran from the 
mainland to the island at about 2 to 3 feet depth.  
Dawn revealed there were about a dozen fishermen standing knee to waist deep on 
the sandbar, fishing about 50 feet from my boat.   Weird.   




Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Sent: Tuesday, December 2, 2014 9:14:38 AM
Subject: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

Anchored off boardwalk at Pensacola Beach last night. 30 20.25 N 87 08.41 W. 
Dead calm, clear night.  Set anchor alarm on GPS.  Depth alarm also set. 

At 5am this morning I was startled awake by "beep beep beep".  Leapt up, came 
into cockpit and heard it again. It was the backup alarm on a garbage truck on 
the island emptying dumpsters.  :(. Crap!

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37/40 + Pricing

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

These are beautiful fast boats but very poorly constructed. Backstay chain 
plates are a known weak point . The Tabling from hull to bulkhead is spotty. 
Owned one - never again.
Michael Cotton
Ex 37+ c/b owner


On Thursday, September 25, 2014 10:27 PM, Us via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 


Good evening all. We looked at this boat during our search back in 2011. The 
dealer purchased this boat awhile back and they have had it on the hard 
uncovered for awhile. We found a surveyor in Michigan we used on several C&C 
boats in the Great Lakes before we found Obsession and he was nice enough to 
take an informal look at it and we were told the balsa panels in the hull were 
dry. At that time the cabin sole was fine. Sorry to hear it has deteriorated.

I would go for a survey, the boat has been sitting for quite awhile at some 
point the dealership will need to budge.

Joanne 
S/V Obsession
C&C 37/40+



Sent from my iPad

On Sep 25, 2014, at 11:21 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:


David,

Let me address one issue - the teak and holly cabin sole on my boat
had the identical issue as this boat you're considering, it had sat
on the ground for some time with water above the sole (fortunately
below the A4 front crankshaft "seal"...).  This spring I finally
addressed it by using a paint stripper to remove what was left of
the varnish, hit with an orbital sander w/60 grit and took off all
the faded wood - total thickness is 3/8" so not big deal - and
refinished it.  It came out beautifully, if I may so myself.  That
item shouldn't be a show stopper, just a little elbow grease.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 9/25/2014 7:37 PM, David Roberts via CnC-List wrote:

 
I have posted about this boat a few times to this list a got great feedback, so 
here I go again. I am looking at a 1989 C&C 37/40 +; 7.25’ draft; two spreader, 
so we are talking about the cruiser not XL or R, I am thinking still fast. Any 
how the boat needs new upholstery, all new running rigging, the traveler is 
stiff even though there is no load on it (mast is down.) I have not had a 
chance to look at the sails yet but the description list  them as: 
Main (Sobstad, Dacron,) Good Condition 
#3 Jib(North, Dacron)Like New 
#2 Jib(Sobstad, Dacron) Good Condition 
#2 Jib (North, Dacron) Excellent Condition 
Cruising spinnaker with sock (North, Nylon) Good Condition 
So I am thinking I may have to replace the Main soon, there is no mention of a 
#1, Is that normal not to have a #1 on this boat?
 
The boat has not been in the water for 7 years. The deck and hull seem to show 
normal wear as to what I would expect for a 26 yr old boat. The engine looks 
like it may have been overheated at some point. The teak and holly flooring in 
the salon area has been refinished and my understanding is that the boat was 
not covered the first year it was on the hard at the dealer and it filled the 
bilge and beyond with water and ruined the floors. So maybe I should be 
concerned with the hull If it froze. There are a large number of little repairs 
that need attention. Lastly the stern looks like it has been bumped a number of 
times so that rear edge needs repair. 
 
I have been watching this boat for 2 years now, just as I started a new 
business so buying a boat was out of the question four years ago. I have been 
sure that someone would come along and buy it. Once they move the boat inside 
to buff it out and give a good cleaning; made a repair or two, when I saw it 
was gone my heart dropped. I later found out that they did not sell it. Now 
that the business is coming along and we can make the payment I am wondering 
why it has not sold. Maybe it is the 7.25’ draft is an issue on Lake Michigan 
we are up 18’ this year but the past 10 years we have been trending down. There 
are a lot of smaller harbors you can’t get in with that draft. That is not a 
problem for hardcore racers. They don’t go to those harbors, but I don’t think 
they would be interested in the Std rig. We race beer can, a few port to ports, 
and cruise.
 
They are asking $79K but I don’t think that is anywhere close to a good number. 
I have been in my current boat for 15 years so it has been some time sense I 
have been in the buyers chair. Do I get the survey first, or make an offer and 
if it is accepted then get the survey. But how do I determine a value without 
the survey? 
 
I am interested in what others have paid recently for the same model and what 
condition it was in. I am try to come to a fair offer.
 
David Roberts
(224) 280-6217
ddr1...@gmail.com 
 


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Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

In the old days before diesel was "winterized" it was SOP to add 10% gas to 
your diesel tank, then fill with diesel (insures mixing). This was done to 
prevent the diesel from "jelling".
Michael Cotton
S/V  M'aisling


On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 4:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 


RE: diesel in the gas
Maybe some of you remember but when I bought Sea Hawk the survey revealed that 
the engine (diesel) wouldn't stay running.  After the owner hired a mechanic 
and had the HP pump replaced ($1800) I thought the problem had been licked and 
departed on the 350mi delivery trip.  About 20 min into the trip the engine 
died AGAIN!
Long story short, about 2 months later I finally figured out that I had enough 
gasoline in a 40 gallon diesel tank that I could run a 2 stroke weed eater off 
the mix.  When poured on a leaf pile it made quite a fire ball.
When the engine was cold, it would run fine but when it got warm the gasoline 
would flash to vapor and lock up the HP pump.  It acted like it lost prime.  I 
could keep it running with a priming bulb or by keeping it cool with a garden 
hose.
Changed out the fuel and haven't had a problem since.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 5, 2014 5:45 PM, "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  
wrote:

>> Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! <<
> 
>I have been told that up to 10% gasoline in a large (>25 gal) diesel tank 
>would still be OK to use.  I picked this up when discussing diesel truck 
>refueling issues.  I friend of mine with a fleet of diesel trucks panicked 
>when he looked down and noticed he stuck a gas nozzle into his diesel tank.  
>He paid for a tow and to have the tank drained and cleaned.  Afterword’s we 
>discussed the event and he thought he had put in 5 to 10 gal of gas into a 40 
>gal tank.
> 
>I recommend you check your engine owner’s manual before paying $$ to pump out 
>a diesel tank with a few gallons of gasoline added.
> 
>Martin
>Calypso
>1971 C&C 43
>Seattle
>
>
> 
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt 
>Stratton via CnC-List
>Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:16 PM
>To: 'Stevan Plavsa'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems
> 
>Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! 
>Not sure my marina would go to those lengths to make good on that. 
> 
>From:CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
>Plavsa via CnC-List
>Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:11 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List A4 engine problems
> 
>I've replaced the entire fuel system except the tank. I think it's aluminum. I 
>did free it once to lift it up so I could see underneath. No noticeable 
>corrosion. 
>New fill hose, vent, lines, racor and polishing filter. 
> 
>Last year the attendant at a marina I was at accidentally filled the tank with 
>diesel! The marina paid for a waste disposal truck to come down and pump the 
>tank out. Then we put about 10 litres of gasoline in and pumped that out too. 
>I like to think I got a free tank cleaning ... they paid for the fill, dinner, 
>a night at the marina and a LIMO (to take us to dinner). Yeah, they made good 
>on their mistake, and then some.
> 
>Steve
>Suhana, C&C 32
>Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Let us know what you get from PHRF.


On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 7:41 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

>
>
>Listers,
>
>
>Just to clarify -- there are several 37+ cb's out there. 
>
>
>After tomorrow I'll probably have the only shoal draft C&C 37+. 
>
>
>
>
>All the best,
>
>
>Edd
>
>
>---
>Edd M. Schillay
>Starship Enterprise
>NCC-1701-B
>C&C 37+ | City Island, NY
>www.StarshipSailing.com
>---
>914.332.4400  | Office
>914.332.1671  | Fax
>914.774.9767  | Mobile
>---
>Sent via iPhone 5
>
>On Jun 3, 2014, at 6:37 PM, Michael Cotton via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>I was "involved" with a 1990 C&C 37+  named "Blue Pearl" out of Mt Sinai 
>Harbor. It must be the only other 37+ cb'er in existence.  I fully agree with 
>you about board up/down on performance.  The best use of the centerboard was 
>when staying at Newport YC in Jersey city. With the board down it really 
>helped control the roll from Hudson river traffic.
>
>
>Michael Cotton
>
>
>
>On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 2:36 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> 
>
>>
>>
>>Replacement sounds just like mine ... Same challenges. Pin was a bear to 
>>remove no room to work, and cotter pin was fully bent back on both legs, only 
>>room for 1 hand. To fish the new one in they removed the shiv in the on deck 
>>turning block, dropped a weighted line down, attached the new cable and 
>>pulled it up, marked the cable for full down then moved the board up and 
>>swagged the 2 ferrels on. Had to be that was as the lower swage was done in 
>>the shop on a roll press ... Total cost including haul and hang was about 
>>$800 Canadian.  
>>
>>
>>We cruise only these days, and I like the board down in all but light winds 
>>...  It does stabilize the boat in the chop we get on Lake Ontario - but even 
>>here there are times it is great to have.
>>
>>Sent from my iPad
>>
>>On Jun 3, 2014, at 1:36 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>Paul, 
>>>
>>>
>>>It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday 
>>>(I was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get 
>>>their hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out 
>>>and connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that 
>>>great on a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was 
>>>frayed, based on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody 
>>>could ever view without taking the whole damn thing apart. 
>>>
>>>
>>>Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, 
>>>makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and 
>>>completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
>>>additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last 
>>>turn. 
>>>
>>>
>>>And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And 
>>>maybe it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some 
>>>serious keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”
>>>
>>>
>>>The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in 
>>>place and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only 
>>>shoal-draft C&C 37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the 
>>>boat, the galaxy).
>>>
>>>
>>>There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. 
>>>
>>>
>>>Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use 
>>>the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if 
>>>you’re familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far 
>>>between. Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer 
>>>can night series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard 
>>>system, I decided I could live with the reduced performance. 
>>>
>>>
>>>As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
>>>racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
>>>racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, 
>>>etc. and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a 
>>>prospec

Re: Stus-List Sealed-Up Centerboard and PHRF Credit

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

I was "involved" with a 1990 C&C 37+  named "Blue Pearl" out of Mt Sinai 
Harbor. It must be the only other 37+ cb'er in existence.  I fully agree with 
you about board up/down on performance.  The best use of the centerboard was 
when staying at Newport YC in Jersey city. With the board down it really helped 
control the roll from Hudson river traffic.

Michael Cotton


On Tuesday, June 3, 2014 2:36 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

>
>
>Replacement sounds just like mine ... Same challenges. Pin was a bear to 
>remove no room to work, and cotter pin was fully bent back on both legs, only 
>room for 1 hand. To fish the new one in they removed the shiv in the on deck 
>turning block, dropped a weighted line down, attached the new cable and pulled 
>it up, marked the cable for full down then moved the board up and swagged the 
>2 ferrels on. Had to be that was as the lower swage was done in the shop on a 
>roll press ... Total cost including haul and hang was about $800 Canadian.  
>
>
>We cruise only these days, and I like the board down in all but light winds 
>...  It does stabilize the boat in the chop we get on Lake Ontario - but even 
>here there are times it is great to have.
>
>Sent from my iPad
>
>On Jun 3, 2014, at 1:36 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>
>Paul, 
>>
>>
>>It’s been a hell of an experience. Turns out the divers went down on Sunday 
>>(I was on board working on other things) and they told me they couldn’t get 
>>their hands/tools in there to get the cotter pins undone to pull the peg out 
>>and connect a new cable. Turns out cable replacement access isn’t all that 
>>great on a 37+ and requires a haul every time. Plus, where the cable was 
>>frayed, based on my measurements, was somewhere in the system that nobody 
>>could ever view without taking the whole damn thing apart. 
>>
>>
>>Add to that — we could not push a new cable down because it starts on deck, 
>>makes a 90-degree turn down through a stainless tube, then, in the bilge and 
>>completely sealed, it makes another 90-degree turn aft, and then a quick 
>>additional 90-degree turn down. Could not get the cable to make that last 
>>turn. 
>>
>>
>>And then I thought I’m going to have to do all this again in 5 years. And 
>>maybe it will break again. And maybe the next time it breaks it will do some 
>>serious keel damage. I just said, and I quote, “Screw it!”
>>
>>
>>The yard is pulling the boat today, pushing the board in, bolting it in place 
>>and sealing the slot. As far as I can tell, I’ll have the only shoal-draft 
>>C&C 37+ on the planet (or, using terms we usually use on the boat, the 
>>galaxy).
>>
>>
>>There were, of course, two concerns: Performance and Resale Value. 
>>
>>
>>Performance upwind in 10+ will be affected, but let’s be honest, we only use 
>>the board when racing, have found it to slow us down in under 10 and, if 
>>you’re familiar with Western Long Island Sound, days of 10+ are few and far 
>>between. Add to that the limited about of racing we do (non-spin in a beer 
>>can night series only) and the cost/worry of maintaining a centerboard 
>>system, I decided I could live with the reduced performance. 
>>
>>
>>As to resale value, I think the board is really only a value to a 
>>racing-oriented owner, and it’s not a C&C 37R, but a C&C 37+. I think 
>>racing-oriented shoppers are going to be looking for J-Boats, Beneteaus, etc. 
>>and not a 18,500 lb.-displacement cruiser. I also think that a prospective 
>>buyer will like the idea of a shoal-draft roomy cruiser with a now 
>>zero-maintence keel.
>>
>>
>>Of course, I may be wrong, but as I tell people, “I may not always be right, 
>>but I’m never in doubt.” 
>>
>>
>>Either way, it’s getting done today/tomorrow. 
>>
>>
>>
>>All the best,
>>
>>
>>Edd
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Edd M. Schillay
>>Starship Enterprise
>>C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>City Island, NY 
>>Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>>
>>On Jun 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
>>
>>Edd,
>>>
>>>
>>>I can smile and relate to your cb challenges... 
>>>
>>>
>>>2 years ago when we moved Perception to the yard for winter storage I had 2 
>>>friends help.. 1 a power boater the other a sailor, asked the sailor to 
>>>release the starboard jib halyard - clearly marked  And guess which 
>>>stopper he pulled .. Yup the centreboard ... And the cable snapped.
>>>
>>>
>>>We were able to hauler her and put her in her cradle for the winter. Pulled 
>>>the cable out and it was badly corroded ... Just a few strands intact so 
>>>over due for replacement. Arranged to have south shore yachts do the 
>>>replacement - and when ghey removed the pin and remaining cable the pin was 
>>>70% or more worn thru, the thimble was also well worn ...
>>>
>>>
>>>Good thing it happened in a calm harbour  And the admiral was not on 
>>>board.
>>>
>>>
>>>The new fittings look much more substantial and should out last my sailing 
>>>days!
>>>
>>>Paul. :) 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>On Jun 2, 2014, at 4:41 PM,