Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff
On a serious note, please disconnect shore power before sending the monkey down below. The 110 volt wires run right into the area where he'll be working.Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List Date: 08-03-2015 10:54 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff I have a 13year old boy who is about to put your and Rob's theory to the test Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List on behalf of RPH via CnC-List Sent: August 3, 2015 2:35 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: RPH Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff Blair, Rob (below) described the correct way to tackle the problem. I was going to use my 11 year old daughter as my spider monkey, but I tried lubricating without disassembly and it worked (at least for me). The "cover" that I referred to is simply the white plastic (nylon?) cap that covers access to the tiller fitting. Perhaps your cap is missing or stowed? As I said, Rob describes how to do the job properly, but I managed to fix my problem without disassembly and my daughter still speaks to me. Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List Date: 08-03-2015 10:13 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff That is useful and funnythank you Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List on behalf of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List Sent: August 3, 2015 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Gallagher Subject: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the "plastic" bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff
Blair, Rob (below) described the correct way to tackle the problem. I was going to use my 11 year old daughter as my spider monkey, but I tried lubricating without disassembly and it worked (at least for me). The "cover" that I referred to is simply the white plastic (nylon?) cap that covers access to the tiller fitting. Perhaps your cap is missing or stowed? As I said, Rob describes how to do the job properly, but I managed to fix my problem without disassembly and my daughter still speaks to me. Robert H. Original message From: Blair via CnC-List Date: 08-03-2015 10:13 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair Subject: Re: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff That is useful and funnythank you Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List on behalf of Robert Gallagher via CnC-List Sent: August 3, 2015 2:03 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Gallagher Subject: Stus-List 88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff remove the through bolts from the plate that holds the cap to the rudder post/emergency tiller point. Remove the "plastic" bearing and lubricate. Replace the bearing ant test for stiffness in the steering. If it's still stif you may need to lightly sand the inside of the bearing, as I did, and retest until you are happy with the results. It's only a couple of hours work. You will need sealant for the cap and through bolts. But first you will need to trap a spider monkey and train him or her to hold a wrench on those through bolts. I actually bribed a friend who is small and flexible. After that miserable job he's no long we my friend. Maybe I'd still have the monkey? Feel free to contact me off list if you have any questions. trys...@gmail.com Rob ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List '88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff Rudder
Gents, I have a 1989 C&C 30 II and my steering became stiff and squeaky. The solution was to remove the cover atop the emergency tiller fitting and then lubricate the rudder post from above. To do so, I just sprayed a luttle 3 in 1 oil around where the rudder post mates with the collar. There might be a better lubricant than 3 in 1. Perhaps spray lithium grease - I'm not sure. Anyway, I have not had any problems with the 3 in 1. Robert H. 1989 C&C 30 MKII Original message From: Blair via CnC-List Date: 08-03-2015 7:05 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Blair Subject: Re: Stus-List '88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff Rudder Rob I have a 1088 C&C 30 MK !! as well and I had the same problem 2 years ago. After some help from the list I found a grease nipple on the raised portion of the hull where the rudder post goes through the hull and into the water. I filled with grease as I could see grease coming up along the flange collar inside the boat around the shaft and all was well. This year I am not using the boat much due to recovering from a broken leg. Now the wheel is very stiff and noisy and I have emptied two greased barrels into the grease fitting. Grease is going into the water but not upwards and out around flange like it did last time. Noise and stiffness is still there. It seems like there is noise also coming from where the top of the shaft is mounted to the floor of the transom. I do not know how to grease this. Any thoughts to help me out will be appreciated. please respond to bcl...@classicfreight.ca if you do not mind. Blair Blair Clark 902-423-4651 From: CnC-List on behalf of Robert Gallagher Sent: December 21, 2012 12:58 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List '88 C&C 30 MKII Stiff Rudder The rudder on my new (to me) '88 30MKII is very hard to turn. It's not the steering, I have removed the cables and the wheel turns freely. I'm pretty confident it's the rudder binding. When shopping, I had a deposit on another 30 MKII and it had the same problem. The yard fixed it but never elaborated on exactly what it was. I do know that it did not involve removing the rudder and that the broker eluded to the fact that something at the top of the shaft was cleaned and greased. I did inspect the boat again and they did fix it. I did try greasing it via the zirk fitting but that did not seem to help. It does not appear that the post is bent. I'm hoping someone else will have had this problem in the past and can give me some guidance before I start taking things apart. I'm really hoping not to have to remove the rudder. Thanks Rob Gallagher '88 C&C 30 MKII Hanuman ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Strengthening Drop Leaf Table Supports
In my 1989 30-2, the leafs of the salon table are supported by teak blocks that swing out from the table pedestal, and snap into teak fittings on the underside of the leaf. Incredibly, the full weight of the leaf (and the full weight of whoever happens to be resting their elbows upon it) is supported only by the piano hinges that connect the supports to the table pedestal. I had one event that caused the hinges to deform and pull the screws from the pedestal. So far, it's the only design on the boat that has made me go "hm". I have long since repaired the table, but has anyone found a way to reinforce or to provide additional support for the table leafs? Robert H. 1989 C&C 30 MKII___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking
Follow up: I fixed my squeaking, groaning rudder! I didn't even need to remove the collar around the emergency tiller fitting. All I needed to do was to squirt a little 3 in 1 oil between the rudder post and the plastic bushing. I was looking for a more complicated solution, I guess. Robert H. 1989 C&C 30 MKII___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking
Rob, This list is incredible! I have been researching how to deal with squeaky, groaning steering on my '89 30 MKII. I am almost certain I have the exact issue that you addressed. Questions: 1. Can I remove the emergency tiller collar while the boat is in the water? (I suspect that I can but this is a question worth asking). 2. Is it as easy as you describe? Do I simply remove the bolts, take off the collar, and pull out the plastic bearing? Are there any issues I should be aware of? 3. Do you recommend any particular brand of grease? I'm going to try to tackle this tonight. Thanks! Robert H. 1989 30 MKII Original message From: Robert Gallagher via CnC-List Date: 06-16-2015 7:25 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Gallagher Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller Bracket Squeaking I have an 88 30MKII Long story short... I survey two 30MKII during my trek to find my boat. The first had a very stiff steering issue, the brokers yard fixed it before I had it surveyed. The would not tell me what was wrong or what they did to fix it. In the end, the boat surveyed poorly and the owner would not negotiate. The second boat had the same issue, but the price was right and the boat surveyed well. I purchased the boat and addressed the stiff steering issue myself. AFTER disassembling most of the steering and pedestal bits and lubricating the heck out of the lower bearing all to no avail... I removed the through bolts that hold the collar on emergency steering thingamabob. This got me to the white plasiticish bearing doohicky. I slid the bearing off, sanded it with fine emery cloth, gave it a bath in lots of white synthetic grease safe for plastic bits and put it all back together. Three seasons later both the steering and myself are still smooth as silk. Rob88 MKIIHANUMANNoank, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?
Mark, I have since learned (with Neil's help) that I actually do have the correctly sized Rocna for my length and displacement. For a 9m boat, the 10kg Rocna is recommended provided that displacement is less than 5 tons, or about 10,000 lbs. For some silly reason, I was calculating as if a ton was 1000 lbs, rather than 2000 lbs. Robert H. Original message From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" Date: 05-06-2015 3:39 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle? I got stuck on the same issue. My CS 30 lists at 8000 lbs Went back and forth as it felt like I was landing right in the gap. But decided that I'd rather have a little extra. I'm not in an area where I'll be overnighting in marinas - so I figure the extra security will help me sleep. I was able to borrow a Ronca 15 from another lister, walk across the parking lot and do a rough test in my bow roller. Didn't have a 10 for comparison. Haven't gotten the Ronca wet yet - so no idea on performance. Mark On May 6, 2015 12:38:41 AM ADT, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List wrote: My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. The question is: Am I an idiot? The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement, but the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or less. I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce. What say you? Rob H. Sent from my Samsung device Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Dr. Mark Bodnar -- Bedford Chiropractic ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle?
Neil, Ha! You have answered my question. I am an idiot! For some reason, I was thinking that a ton is 1000 lbs. Too much metric, I guess Thanks! Robert H. Original message From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List Date: 05-05-2015 9:01 PM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Neil Gallagher Subject: Re: Stus-List Did I upgrade or downgrade my ground tackle? Rob, I bought a Rocna 15 (33 lb) for my 35-1, which weighs (reportedly) 10,500 lb, and it works great. Looking at the Rocna chart for 33'/8,700 lb, (10m, <4t) the 22lb is the recommended size. Looks to me like you're in the right size range. Neil Gallagher Weatherly, 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 5/5/2015 11:38 PM, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List wrote: My C&C 30 MKII displaces about 8,700 lbs unladen. I just replaced my 33lb Bruce with a 22lb Rocna. The question is: Am I an idiot? The Rocna sizing chart suggests a 15kg (33lb) anchor for my displacement, but the website goes on and on about how conservative their ratings are. It looks like a 10kg (22lb) Rocna would be recommended for a 30ft boat displacing 7k or less. I would have gone for a larger Rocna, but it wouldn't fit (the shank is too long). My reasoning is that the 22lb Rocna will almost certainly outperform the 33lb Bruce. What say you? Rob H. Sent from my Samsung device ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Why does my furler get "hung up"?
What a great resource this list is! I went to the boat today. I have a pennant on my jib and, sighting with binoculars, I could see that I do have a fairlead for the halyard at the top of the mast. Anyway, I think my problem was too little backstay / forestay tension. After tensioning the backstay, furling was smooth. Thanks to everyone for all the tips. Robert H. 1989 C&C 30 MKII Original message From: RPH via CnC-List Date: 04-16-2015 10:08 PM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Why does my furler get "hung up"? I just bent on my main and jib this evening. While furling my jib, the furler (Harken) seemed to get caught up somehow. It was as if the furler wanted to unwind a little, if that makes sense. I know that my jib sheets were not fouled. It felt as if I was twisting the foil or the forestay. I managed to furl by repeatedly backing off and gingerly furling again. Anyway, I'm asking because this happened to me last summer under sail while I was trying to reef. The situation was as above, but with the added drama of a wildly flapping jib. Is there an obvious reason for this? Robert H. 1989 C&C 30 MKII___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Why does my furler get "hung up"?
I just bent on my main and jib this evening. While furling my jib, the furler (Harken) seemed to get caught up somehow. It was as if the furler wanted to unwind a little, if that makes sense. I know that my jib sheets were not fouled. It felt as if I was twisting the foil or the forestay. I managed to furl by repeatedly backing off and gingerly furling again. Anyway, I'm asking because this happened to me last summer under sail while I was trying to reef. The situation was as above, but with the added drama of a wildly flapping jib. Is there an obvious reason for this? Robert H. 1989 C&C 30 MKII___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum
I am a relative newbie here, but I would very much prefer a FORUM and I would certainly make a donation to help cover the costs. Frankly, I am a little surprised that there is so much support for the list over a forum format (though I obviously respect opposing points of view) . Stupid question: is it possible to have both so that emails sent on a particular subject show up as posts on a thread identified by that subject? Robert H. Original message From: Linda via CnC-List Date: 03-14-2015 9:28 AM (GMT-08:00) To: s...@cncphotoalbum.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum FORUM On Fri, 13 Mar 2015 17:32:12 -0400 Stu via CnC-List writes: Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have a “Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email list (like this one). PROS: 1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list 2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails. 3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads. 4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums. 5. Easily moderated by more than one person. Threads can be deleted and undesirable subscribers blocked. 6. No more 20-30 emails a day. Visit the site at your convenience and view the latest topics since your last visit. CONS: 1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional enhancements. 2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. () 3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time. And a bit more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection. Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list? It does not matter to me. Stu ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795
I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project yesterday and the work is not yet complete. In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and a router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They turned out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights. To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 Tape 1/2" x 2.3mm, 4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating exhaust paint. Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew). I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate adhesive and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. In the end, I used several small putty knives which easily removed the portlight. What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m Premium Marine Filler. After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while my wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective paper film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing and removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted the inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 795 will not be visible against the cabin top. I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the surface was carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing compound should be left to cure overnight and I will try again today. In any event, I have since read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum adhesion, and that it will adhere more quickly when the temperature is warmer. I'll bring a heat gun today to warm up the cabin top before applying the portlight. Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the inside of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I will affix a few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the cabin top window opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I can then remove the protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and then fit the portlight into place like a "key" into a keyhole. After the tape is set, I will then fill the gap around the outside with the Dow 795. That's the plan, anyway. Robert H. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List rum answer & questions
My advice? Release the Kraken! www.krakenrum.com Original message From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List Date:12-13-2014 8:25 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List rum answer & questions Rum is the answer. What is your first and last drink of the day? :) Any other questions on the subject? Cheers, Russ At 08:29 PM 12/12/2014, you wrote: Rum is the answer. What was the question? Bill Coleman Original message From: Jim Watts via CnC-List Date: 12/12/2014 7:32 PM (GMT-05:00) To: Chuck S , 1 CnC List Subject: Re: Stus-List Annapolis/South River sail Saturday Rum. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 12 December 2014 at 14:56, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: Joel, What a great offer. 46 degree weather, but I'd love to join you for a sailing fix. I'll let you know later tonight. I'll bring some snacks and my homemade chilli as a warmup. I guess Kahlua or Bailey's would be better in coffee or cocoa than cold beer? Maybe the cold weather sailors would suggest the best libations for cold weather sailing? Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement
Steve, I'm sorry if this post is a repeat. I included a couple of photos with my original post which are omitted here. I too just replaced the cabin sole in my 30 MKII. I'm no professional carpenter, so I took my time. Though I thought it was a big job (and one that I probably wouldn't want to do again) I think I could be persuaded to do up new cabin soles for other listers at $9600 each. In other words, I think $9600 is way too high. $4100 sounds about right. Original message From: steve via CnC-List Date:12-12-2014 1:00 PM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement I acquired a 1984 C&C 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard for a couple of years. The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out nicely. However, it was left with standing water in the bilges. The freeze/thaw cycle completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to replace it. The shop just finished installing the new teak & holly marine grade plywood sole and it looks pretty good. Some gaps are wider than they should be and the subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole really improves the look of the cabin. Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it. The shop guy and I apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner. I had expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable and, I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual bill is for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!! So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work and the cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely hosed. I would love to hear opinions on this. By the way, the cost of the wood was about $700. I don't know the cost of the varnish. Steve Anderson Shadow C&C 41 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Stereo finally works
May I suggest an alternative? I replaced the stereo in the cabin with a new Bluetooth-capable head unit from West Marine. On those rare occasions when I desire music in the cockpit, I use an Eton Rugged Rukus Solar Powered Wireless Sound System: http://www.mec.ca/product/5033-782/eton-rugged-rukus-solar-powered-wireless-sound-system I use my phone or my tablet as my music player / remote control. As an added benefit, this system gives me a Bluetooth speaker phone in the cabin for making or receiving cell phone calls. Also - no holes! Robert H. Original message From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List Date: 09-09-2014 7:04 AM (GMT-08:00) To: Joel Aronson , C&CList Subject: Re: Stus-List Stereo finally works Keep in mind the interference that the magnets in speakers may place on your steering compass. I have noticed that my hand held VHF radio will cause the compass Honey's to swing when within about a foot of the compass Jack Fitzgerald C&C 39 TM HONEY US12788 On Tue, Sep 9, 2014 at 8:55 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: I'm thinking of mounting the new speakers in the inspection port covers in the transom. I hate cutting holes in my boat! I'll wait for the Defender sale to shop for speakers, but I rarely sail with the stereo on, so I'm not looking to spend big bucks. Joel On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 8:17 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List wrote: 8 or 4 ohms will make very little difference in sonic performance. The amps' outputs are much lower impedance so the speakers are in a bridging configuration. Rich On Sep 8, 2014, at 19:50, Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List wrote: One thing to remember is that most boat audio systems are 4 ohms and it is better to use speakers with same impedance ( 8 ohm will take too much juice ). Sometimes you only discover it after everything is installed :-) Sylvain C&C27MkIII From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Monday, September 8, 2014 6:25 PM Subject: Stus-List Stereo finally works After three years my stereo is fully functional. I replaced the old stereo with a Sony unit after I bought the boat. One of the 2 interior speakers worked and the 2 cheapo West cockpit speakers worked. After spending way too much time, I finally figured out that the speaker wire was to corroded to carry a signal. Initially, I replaced most of the wire with household wire. DON"T USE HOUSEHOLD SPEAKER WIRE. That lasted about a season. I finally replaced all of the wire with marine grade wire. Then I discovered that the rubber around the speaker cones disintegrated. I bought 5 1/4 inch car speakers that fit into the enclosures for the cabin speakers, and then found out the cockpit speakers did't work. Turns out someone twisted and taped the connections. New crimp connectors fixed them. Finally, 4 working speakers! Now, need to upgrade the cockpit speakers. Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!
Actually, no. I originally thought that acetone might be too harsh. I'm going to try it. Original message From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Date:09-01-2014 12:46 PM (GMT-08:00) To: kevindrisc...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick! have you tried cleaning with an acetone or a wax remover? -- Original Message -- From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List To: RPH , "C&C List" Subject: Re: Stus-List Nothing Will Stick! Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2014 12:40:36 -0700 Fwiw I've tried sticking led puck lights in my lazarette on our 30-2 and couldn't get anything to stick there either. I just finally gave up and stuck the adhesive with super glue from our med kit. I also stuck one on the underside of our helm seat so that we can more easily connect our shore power when we come in after dark Which we do quite often, especially after dark in winter. I am curious, did you connect the led s in lieu of the florescent fixtures located there or adjacent to them? I would be curious to hear what you've done for switching if it was the latter. It's your 30-2 in the great lakes? Best, Kevin Sent from my Tablet On Sep 1, 2014 12:22 PM, "RPH via CnC-List" wrote: I already know that this is a stupid question and that I will be shamed by the (obvious) answer. Anyway, I attempted to install a couple of flexible led light strips in the overhead light recesses in the cabin of my 30-2. The lights are like these: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/optx-marine--flexible-heavy-duty-led-strip-lights-12--P012712865 Each overhead light recess has a translucent cover panel. Underneath the cover panel is the raw fibreglass side if the deck structure. The lights are supposed to be affixed using an adhesive backed tape. I tried the tape. I tried "industrial" Velcro. I tried "No More Nails" tape. Nothing will stick. By the next day, the light strips have detached. I did clean the raw fibreglass with Simple Green, but I am now wondering whether there is something in the resin that is making this a hopeless exercise. Any tips or suggestions? ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Nothing Will Stick!
I already know that this is a stupid question and that I will be shamed by the (obvious) answer. Anyway, I attempted to install a couple of flexible led light strips in the overhead light recesses in the cabin of my 30-2. The lights are like these: http://www.westmarine.com/buy/optx-marine--flexible-heavy-duty-led-strip-lights-12--P012712865 Each overhead light recess has a translucent cover panel. Underneath the cover panel is the raw fibreglass side if the deck structure. The lights are supposed to be affixed using an adhesive backed tape. I tried the tape. I tried "industrial" Velcro. I tried "No More Nails" tape. Nothing will stick. By the next day, the light strips have detached. I did clean the raw fibreglass with Simple Green, but I am now wondering whether there is something in the resin that is making this a hopeless exercise. Any tips or suggestions? ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Too Much Bottom Paint - Use It Up?
My 30-2 has many layers of Micron CSC ablative paint. The most recent layers of paint are flaking. I am told this is due to the fact that ablative paint absorbs water like a sponge and then sheds that water when the boat is hauled. Eventually, there is enough swelling and shrinking in the layers of old paint to prevent proper adhesion. Anyway, I had been planning to have the yard strip off all the old paint, apply a barrier coat, and then start fresh with a couple of coats of bottom paint. The cost would be about $120 per foot. However, this is just one of several projects and I'm trying to prioritize. I have been wondering Do I really need a bottom job, or can I just continue to let the bottom paint ablate, at least for the time being? Sure, I don't have a race bottom, but I can live with that. I will eventually get a bottom job, but why shouldn't I just "use" the copious bottom paint that I already have? Am I missing something? ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List C&C Ball Cap
Everytime I visit the C&C Photo Album website, I visit the online chandlery and gaze longingly at the coveted C&C Ball Cap that is "temporarily" out of stock. Oh, how lucky are those of you who posses such a fine headpiece! Will it ever be restocked? Please give me hope. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
Update: Tonight I removed the sound insulation from the sides of the engine compartment. Let me tell you - it was a dirty mess. Surprisingly, it is possible for a substance to be both dusty and oily at the same time. On the bright side, after removing the old, crumbling insulation I was able to give the little Yanmar and the engine compartment a good cleaning. It looks 100% better now and I think it will be easier to keep the engine clean. I can't report on the noise yet as I'm waiting on an exhaust elbow at the moment. Even if it's a little noisier under power, I think that it may be worth it just to have a little more room in the engine compartment (it's amazing what an extra couple of inches can give you in a cramped space) . On the other hand, if the racket proves to be intolerable, I'll report back with a warning to others who might be contemplating taking the same steps. Thanks to everyone for the helpful feedback. Robert H. Original message From: Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List Date: 08-26-2014 9:28 AM (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without? I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine. However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII. Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big mistake? ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Slacking the Baby Stay
Thanks, Bill. I actually did contemplate a slit and, as I think about it, that is probably the way to go. Did you do anything special with the floor board that surrounds the mast? On my boat, that floor board would have to be in place before the may is stepped! I'm thinking about lapping two pieces together longitudinally with a couple of blocks screwed in from below to provide reinforcement. That way, I should be able to lift the piece, unscrew the blocks, and remove that floor board without unstepping the mast! Original message From: "wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List" Date:08-25-2014 9:01 AM (GMT-08:00) To: RPH via CnC-List Subject: Re: Stus-List Slacking the Baby Stay Just a thought, and I 're- made my floor boards this winter,is to make a slit all the way the the edge so you can remove without taking it out. On my boat it is pretty close to edge. I could send you photo. Why? What if you need to get to that area quickly? Bill Walker CnC 36 Evening Star Sent from my HTC - Reply message ----- From: "RPH via CnC-List" To: Subject: Stus-List Slacking the Baby Stay Date: Mon, Aug 25, 2014 10:52 AM My 1989 C&C 30 MKII has rod rigging and a baby stay. Above the deck, the baby stay is wire rope, unlike the rest of the rigging. Below the deck, in the V-berth, the tension of the baby stay is carried through a piece of rod rigging that is attached to the stringers under the cabin sole. I am redoing my cabin sole and I'm going to have to temporarily remove the rod rigging in V-berth (because it passes through a hole drilled into the small piece of cabin sole just past the forward bulkhead). I am concerned that if I slacken the rod rigging in the V-berth (which seems to be under tension) there will be too much force placed on the deck by the baby stay (which is also under tension). I have also wondered what the effect would be if I put a pelican hook or similar on the baby stay above the deck (i.e., would releasing the baby stay then put too much tension on the rod rigging in the V-berth?). Is there any particular method that I should use here? Also, when I do unatach the rod rigging in the V-berth, how can I be sure to get everything back at the right tension (assuming that my back stay is slackened)? Thanks in advance. It's great to be part of this community! Robert H. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Slacking the Baby Stay
My 1989 C&C 30 MKII has rod rigging and a baby stay. Above the deck, the baby stay is wire rope, unlike the rest of the rigging. Below the deck, in the V-berth, the tension of the baby stay is carried through a piece of rod rigging that is attached to the stringers under the cabin sole. I am redoing my cabin sole and I'm going to have to temporarily remove the rod rigging in V-berth (because it passes through a hole drilled into the small piece of cabin sole just past the forward bulkhead). I am concerned that if I slacken the rod rigging in the V-berth (which seems to be under tension) there will be too much force placed on the deck by the baby stay (which is also under tension). I have also wondered what the effect would be if I put a pelican hook or similar on the baby stay above the deck (i.e., would releasing the baby stay then put too much tension on the rod rigging in the V-berth?). Is there any particular method that I should use here? Also, when I do unatach the rod rigging in the V-berth, how can I be sure to get everything back at the right tension (assuming that my back stay is slackened)? Thanks in advance. It's great to be part of this community! Robert H. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
