Stus-List Re: Fridge insulation

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi Dough,

I posted a bunch of photos when I upgraded the refrigerator in my LF38.  I have 
never gotten around to provide a detailed write up, but I am real pleased with 
the outcome.  I split the space into a small freezer and larger refrigerator.  
It runs great and consumes about 25 AH a day in July/August Florida.

Paul

https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2018/01/icebox-upgrade-to-refrigeration.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 25, 2024, at 12:42 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> I'm contemplating removing the fridge fiberglass liner to better insulated 
> it. This year I want to install new water cooled refrigeration. 
> I'm not sure how the liner is held in place, and how much of the cabinetry I 
> will have to remove. 
> I think that there is some foam insulation already there. 
> 
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 1988 LF 39
> Mexico at large
> 1984 Sabre 34
> Port Orchard, WA
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Understanding Polars

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

Just for the fun of it, I entered the text of your email into ChatGPT4.   


You:
I have a set of polars for my C 34+ (below), but I am unsure of how to 
interpret the downwind data.  There is no information I have found on how the 
angles were determined.  I am interested in best angles for downwind work 
without a spinnaker going wing on wing with a whisker pole.  I am guessing the 
data is with a spinnaker and I am not sure if that matters.  The issue is 
whether to go wing on wing direct to a mark and go a shorter distance vs. wing 
on wing or not on a lesser angle according to the polar chart.  I have tried to 
measure this on my boat and have not found a big enough difference to convince 
myself I should tack downwind. 

ChatGPT:
Interpreting the downwind data from the polar diagrams of your C 34+ requires 
understanding a few key points about these diagrams and how they relate to 
sailing without a spinnaker. Polar diagrams are typically generated with a 
spinnaker, especially for downwind angles, so the speeds shown might be higher 
than what you can achieve wing on wing with just a mainsail and a jib.

Here’s how you can approach the interpretation and application of this data for 
wing on wing sailing without a spinnaker:

Understand the Polar Diagram: The polar diagram shows boat speed at various 
wind speeds and angles. If the data is indeed with a spinnaker, the speeds at 
downwind angles will likely be optimistic for wing on wing sailing.

Determine Best Angle for Wing on Wing: Without a spinnaker, your best downwind 
VMG (Velocity Made Good) might be at a different angle than what's optimal with 
a spinnaker. Wing on wing is most efficient when the wind is directly behind, 
but if the polar diagram suggests a slightly off-wind angle is faster, it may 
be due to the spinnaker's influence.

Experiment and Record: Since you’ve mentioned not finding a significant 
difference in speeds when testing different angles, it’s essential to conduct 
more trials under various wind conditions and record your boat’s performance. 
Accurate and consistent data can help you understand your boat's behavior 
better.

Consider the Course and Conditions: The choice between going straight downwind 
(wing on wing) or jibing downwind at angles suggested by the polar diagram also 
depends on the course and sea conditions. If the direct downwind route is 
shorter and the speed loss is minimal, it might be the better choice. However, 
if off-wind angles significantly increase speed, the extra distance might be 
worth it.

Adjust for Non-Spinnaker Performance: Since the polar diagrams are likely based 
on spinnaker performance, you might need to adjust the expected boat speeds 
downwind. You can do this by reducing the speed values slightly or by using 
performance data from similar boats sailed without spinnakers.

Software and Tools: Consider using sailing software that can adjust polar 
diagrams for different sail configurations. Some programs allow you to input 
your data and conditions to simulate the best course and sail setup.

Ultimately, the decision to go directly downwind or jibe at angles according to 
the polar chart should be based on a combination of empirical data from your 
own experiences, the specifics of the course and conditions, and adjusted 
expectations from the polar diagrams. Continuous recording and analysis of your 
sailing data will help refine your strategy over time.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 5, 2024, at 3:18 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, Apr 5, 2024 at 2:44 PM Bill Coleman  > wrote:
>> I anguish over this nearly every race, and one thing I can tell you is that 
>> whichever choice you decide, you will wish you did the other!
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> Erie, PA 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Apr 5, 2024 at 1:48 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> I have a set of polars for my C 34+ (below), but I am unsure of how to 
>>> interpret the downwind data.  There is no information I have found on how 
>>> the angles were determined.  I am interested in best angles for downwind 
>>> work without a spinnaker going wing on wing with a whisker pole.  I am 
>>> guessing the data is with a spinnaker and I am not sure if that matters.  
>>> The issue is whether to go wing on wing direct to a mark and go a shorter 
>>> distance vs. wing on wing or not on a lesser angle according to the polar 
>>> chart.  I have tried to measure this on my boat and have not found a big 
>>> enough difference to convince myself I should tack downwind.  Dave
>>> 
>>> 
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your 

Stus-List Re: Fridge insulation

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Doug,

I am guessing that the LF39 icebox was not much better than the ones on the 
LF38s which were terrible.  Six years ago I installed Isotherm 3751 ASU SP 
Water Cooled Refrigeration system, gutted and rebuilt the insulated box.  I put 
in a divider to have a small freezer section which works great and the main box 
keep nice and chilly.  In August, it consumes about 24 AH per day whereas 
currently it consumes about 13 AH.  The Isotherm system uses a water cooled 
heat exchange thru-hull which is like a keel cooler, but in my opinion better. 

Here is the link to my blog which contains mostly photos.  I intended to write 
it up better, but never got around to.


https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2018/01/icebox-upgrade-to-refrigeration.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Mar 28, 2024, at 3:37 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All. 
> Does anyone know it the icebox/refrigerator compartment on the LF39 is 
> insulated. I noticed today that my freezer plates are not freezing like they 
> used to. I added some Freon about a month ago, working great. I'm thinking 
> after 20+ years it is time for a new unit. 
> Before installing a new unit, keel cooled this time, I want to insulate the 
> box first. I'm thinking of using a pour in expanding foam. My carpentry 
> skills are severely lacking. 
> 
> 
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 1988 C LF 39
> Mexico at large
> 1984 Sabre 34
> Port Orchard, WA
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hand rail replacement- sources

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

It is not that difficult to make teak hand rails.  I made a pair for my first 
C (29mk1) following Don Casey’s instructions in either “This Old Boat” or 
“Sailboat Maintenance”.   It worked out well and cost about $50 for the pair.   
   

On my Landfall 38,  I got tired to refinishing and resealing leaky teak rails 
so I replaced them with through bolted stainless rails.  The LF38 has 3 pairs 
of rails, one pair outside of the companionway, a traditional pair mid-ship, 
and a forward pair near the v-birth hatch.   I was quoted over $1,300 to 
fabricate new stainless rails, but instead I decided to install 8 pairs of 
stainless rails purchased from AliExpress.  I was initially cautious and 
purchased 1 pair first, and being pleased with the quality I purchased the 
remaining.  Total cost was just over a $100.   It’s been over 2 years and I 
LOVE them. I never got around to a blog write up, but I just posted a 
couple photos if anyone is interested.   Below is the link to the photos along 
with a link to AliExpress for similar rails as the one I purchased are no 
longer available from the original vender.  

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2023/12/replacing-teak-handrails-with-ali.html


https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805192680163.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.114.17.5679kv3rkv3rUu=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller=1007.40050.362094.0_id=1007.40050.362094.0=1007.40050.362094.0=e62bd7d6-6d96-4607-91cb-5f29329d3191&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.362094.0,pvid:e62bd7d6-6d96-4607-91cb-5f29329d3191,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238108%231977_npi=4%40dis!USD!26.52!13.0!!!189.00!!%402101c59517020599422635497e2c30!1232810623134!rec!US!175453092!



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



> 
> 
>> On Dec 7, 2023, at 6:44 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Allan, hi,
>> I would like to acquire your old hand rails.
>> How much do you want for them, and what is the shipping cost?
>> 
>> Thx,
>> Pete W.
>> Siren Song
>> 30-2 #171
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Nov 30, 2023, at 6:05 AM, Allan Rheaume  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hi Pete,
>>>  I have the rails your looking for, I changed to stainless 3 
>>> years ago and the old ones are in my boat shed.
>>> 
>>> Allan Rheaume
>>> Drumroll
>>> 30-2 # 90
>>> 
>>> On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 08:28:57 p.m. EST, Peter W. via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Anyone had any experience to share regarding the replacement of hand rails?
>>> I am looking for two(2) 6-loop hand rails for my 30MKII.
>>> I found several web sites, but I am not familiar with any of vendors.
>>> Also, from the (lack of) info, I can’t determine if the loops will match up 
>>> with the existing holes in the deck.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Pete W.
>>> Siren Song
>>> ‘90 C 30MKII
>>> Irvington, Va.
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks for your help.
>>> Stu
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks for your help.
>>> Stu
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Sizing an inverter

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Richard,

My point is that one should not size an inverter relative a battery, but size 
it to ones expected needs.Folks often mix up or misuse terminology.If 
the maximum power consumed from an electric coffee pot is 1000 Watts.  Then one 
would need at least a 1kW inverter, but should get something larger to avoid 
maxing the operating limits.   Now the question is what battery can provide a 
constant 1000W for the 5 minutes to brew coffee.  Of course battery needs are 
greater than brewing coffee and an energy audit would give a better estimate, 
but for the sake of simplicity, let’s only consider coffee needs.

 For a 12V battery system (12.5V lead acid), the 1000W of power (P = voltage* 
current) is  provided by a battery current of 1000W/12.5V = 80A.  So one would 
need a battery that can provide 80A of current for 5 minutes.  A single 100A*hr 
lead acid type battery would be a poor choice as it would end up nearly 
depleted.   Relative to a 100 A*hr LiFePO4 battery, the LiFePO4 battery would 
brew about 10 times more coffee! 




-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55 AM, Richard Bush  wrote:
> 
> Paul, If I understand your point, it is that we shouldn't be relying on 
> battery power for any appliances or coffee pots...etc.; is there any 
> alternative that doesn't involve solar? thanks!
> 
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584: 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 07:12:19 AM EDT, Dreuge via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Chuck,
> 
> First off,  12V * 100 A*hr = 1200 W*hr.  But keep in mind that A*hr battery 
> ratings for a 100 A*hr battery is tested typical at 5 amps(or 0.05C).  That 
> is your 100 A*hr is 5A * 20hr. At this rate the battery is only providing 
> 12.5V * 5A = 63 Watts.At higher current loads, your effective battery 
> capacity will be much much less  due to Peuket Effect losses.   In fact, a 
> 100 A*hr rated lead-acid battery at 100 amp load would only provide about 20 
> A*hr of energy(and lots of heat).  To add to the insult, lead acid based 
> batteries like AGM should not be depleted below 50% capacity to limit damage, 
> so reserving 1 battery for start leaves only 50 A*hr for your house bank at 
> loads of about 5 amps.At a 20A load, the 100 A*hr (50 A*hr effective) 
> only provides 60 A*hr (30 A*hr effective).  That’s about 30 A*hr / 20A = 1.5 
> hrs of use.
> 
> A 1000 W inverter could draw a max of 1000W / 12.5V = 80 Amps (but likely 
> higher due to a voltage drop).  This would drain your battery in 6 - 10 
> minutes.
> 
> I gave a talk to some local Hams about Solar Off-Grid Systems.  I posted the 
> slides on my blog (see link below).On slides 5 & 6, I discuss battery 
> discharge capacity and bank sizes.
> 
> 
> 
https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/10/solar-off-grid-system.html
> 
> 
> 
>  On Johanna Rose, I have a 2000W inverter charger.  When I run my microwave, 
> it draws about 100A from a 560 A*hr  LiFePO4 battery.   Like Dennis, I have 
> my inverter connected to my panel powering all AC loads except for my A/C 
> unit and water heater.   The inverter has a built in transfer switch which 
> automatically (and smoothly) transfers to shore power when available. 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Oct 17, 2023, at 7:27 PM,  via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
> 
> OK, an DC/AC Pure Sine Wave inverter looks attractive  
>  
> I've heard some boats have 1000 watt, some 2000watt and some 3000 or more.
> What size inverter is right for a boat equipped with two 100Ah AGM batteries? 
>  
> One battery provides 12v x 100ah: 1200watts.  My system can provide 2400 
> watts but I usually reserve one battery to restart the engine and run on the 
> other battery.  Does the inverter get fed from a bus common to both 
> batteries, or to the selector switch marked, "Off, 1, both, 2"? 
>  
> Thanks,
> Chuck S   
>  
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Sizing an inverter

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

First off,  12V * 100 A*hr = 1200 W*hr.  But keep in mind that A*hr battery 
ratings for a 100 A*hr battery is tested typical at 5 amps(or 0.05C).  That is 
your 100 A*hr is 5A * 20hr. At this rate the battery is only providing 12.5V * 
5A = 63 Watts.At higher current loads, your effective battery capacity will 
be much much less  due to Peuket Effect losses.   In fact, a 100 A*hr rated 
lead-acid battery at 100 amp load would only provide about 20 A*hr of 
energy(and lots of heat).  To add to the insult, lead acid based batteries like 
AGM should not be depleted below 50% capacity to limit damage, so reserving 1 
battery for start leaves only 50 A*hr for your house bank at loads of about 5 
amps.At a 20A load, the 100 A*hr (50 A*hr effective) only provides 60 A*hr 
(30 A*hr effective).  That’s about 30 A*hr / 20A = 1.5 hrs of use.

A 1000 W inverter could draw a max of 1000W / 12.5V = 80 Amps (but likely 
higher due to a voltage drop).  This would drain your battery in 6 - 10 minutes.

I gave a talk to some local Hams about Solar Off-Grid Systems.  I posted the 
slides on my blog (see link below).On slides 5 & 6, I discuss battery 
discharge capacity and bank sizes.


https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/10/solar-off-grid-system.html


 On Johanna Rose, I have a 2000W inverter charger.  When I run my microwave, it 
draws about 100A from a 560 A*hr  LiFePO4 battery.   Like Dennis, I have my 
inverter connected to my panel powering all AC loads except for my A/C unit and 
water heater.   The inverter has a built in transfer switch which automatically 
(and smoothly) transfers to shore power when available. 

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 17, 2023, at 7:27 PM,  via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> OK, an DC/AC Pure Sine Wave inverter looks attractive  
>  
> I've heard some boats have 1000 watt, some 2000watt and some 3000 or more.
> What size inverter is right for a boat equipped with two 100Ah AGM batteries? 
>  
> One battery provides 12v x 100ah: 1200watts.  My system can provide 2400 
> watts but I usually reserve one battery to restart the engine and run on the 
> other battery.  Does the inverter get fed from a bus common to both 
> batteries, or to the selector switch marked, "Off, 1, both, 2"? 
>  
> Thanks,
> Chuck S   
>  

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I once had a similar engine issue.  It would run fine one day (or half) and 
constant stall upon or shortly after restarts.  It turned out that my Racor was 
not full tightened.  Easy fix once found.

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:27 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> On Fri, Jun 9, 2023 at 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored 
>> out of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while waiting for wind. 
>> Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started up and ran for a bit 
>> longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and fuel pressure and level in 
>> racor look fine. Started up and ran fine for 40 min. WTF?  Dave

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Looking for prior owner of my 35 mk I

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

If the vessel is/was USCG documented then you can request an “Abstract of 
Title” from the USCG.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 23, 2023, at 8:43 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> At one time I virtually met one of the earliest owners of my boat and I'm 
> hoping they're on this list.  I have a 1971 C mk I, hull number 85, and 
> sail number 14032.  I bought her from Grand Bend, Ontario, Canada, but I 
> believe that owner purchased her from Bay City, Michigan, USA, where she was 
> named Decadence.  The hull is Fighting Lady Yellow, but was at one time a 
> light blue. 
> 
> Bob Mann
> Detroit, MI
> Mystic, 14032
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Thru Hull

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

When I replaced my thru-hulls, all but one were flush mounted.  I replaced them 
with Groco FTH-  thru-hulls.  It was pretty easy to reset new ones with 
some dremel and epoxy work.   If you have exposed core, then its best to ream 
the core back and fill and glass it in.   I have a description on my blog 
including waxing the thru-hull while doing the flush epoxy work. 

https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/thru-hulls

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 19, 2023, at 12:13 PM, Tom A via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I had to replace my stbd cockpit drain Seacock and unfortunately could not 
> save the thru-hull fitting. It is a flush mount style that fits into a 
> recessed space on the hull. I’ve looked at a few manufacturers, but nothing 
> matches up great. Before I start a salvage search, or try to adapt a new one, 
> I was wondering if anybody had any advice.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/16YqXM8JLY596Io3Ay_VKXnsXBCECw2_8/view?usp=share_link
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tom
> 
> C 36
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Encapsulating keel

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Doug,

The keel on my LF38 was encapsulated by a previous owner.  I do not know the 
detail of how it was done, but it appears the it was fiberglass wrapped with 
epoxy but was then faired with polyester fairing.   I know this because when I 
first hauled her out, the keel was loaded with blisters whereas the rest of the 
hull had none.  The blisters were only in the fairing.  I assumed that 
polyester fairing was used to make it easier to sand the fairing.   It was a 
bad idea, so don’t let anyone try to convince you to fair with a polyester 
fairing.  I ended up grounding off all of the fairing and I found the 
underlying epoxied fiberglass in rock solid shape.  I then redid the fairing 
using epoxy mixed with 50-50 colloidal silica & 3M glass spheres. And easily 
sanded it smooth with an orbital sander.  It has been over 8 years and is still 
in perfect shape.   That said, having owned another C previously, and 
experienced the smile, I do check the keel bolts out of habit but have had no 
issues.  

The keel does have a large bolt head sticking out of it.  It is basically right 
in the center on one side. It looks like someone drilled a hole and threaded 
the bolt in.  I left it in place assuming that it was possibly done for a 
lightning ground.   To be clear, this is not a garboard drain.   

I have a write up on my blog about this:  
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html   Go to "Bottom and Hull 
Work”->”Barrier Coat and Bottom Painting”. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 19, 2022, at 12:41 PM, Doug via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I have a question for everyone here. Here in mexico where labor is cheap and 
> craftsmanship is good. I'm wondering about fully encapsulating my keel. The 
> thought behind this would be to eliminate the worry of my keel bolts. I can 
> see (access) a total of 2. There is one under the mast and who knows how many 
> below the engine down about 3 feet. 
> Just a thought as I don't show any signs of a loose keel yet. 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C & C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard Yacht Club 
> +1 253-208-1412 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: charger/inverter

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Like most, I think Victron makes great products but a bit pricey.  I looked 
into getting one of their inverter/chargers when I upgraded my battery to a  
560AH LiFePO4(LFP) battery.  But instead I purchased a Renogy 2000W 
inverter/charger.   I was cautious and motivated by the price.  At the time the 
cost just under $600.   It has a 65A battery charger which is easily 
configurable.  And it has default charging profiles for all battery types 
including LFP,  but also a configurable user defined profile(which I prefer for 
charging my LFP).It also has an automatic transfer switch which 
automatically uses shore power when available over inverter power. 

It’s been 2 years, and has been working fine.  I installed a small microwave 
which draws 100A DC when in use.  I made a "suicide" cord for testing (i.e. 
extension cord with 2 male ends) so that I could run power from an inverter 
outlet to a non-inverter outlet on the same circuit as my 16,500 BTU A/C 
unit(FlagShip Marine FM16R).  It turns out that the A/C uses the same battery 
power as the microwave (100A DC draw).   While I ran the A/C on battery for 5 
minutes as a “fun” test, I don’t plan on running the A/C via the inverter, but 
it is nice to know that I could do so for about 5 hrs on battery alone.  

I have several write up on my blog.  Have a look at:  
https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/07/electrical-power-system-w-solar.html





-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 18, 2022, at 10:38 AM, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am looking to update my shore power charger and considering 
> charger/inverter with lithium batt capabilities. 
>  
> There are lots of manufacturers out there.  Can anyone provide reliable 
> resources to review or recommendations?
>  
> Thanks,

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Yes, good advise.  But measuring a voltage can fool you as it will not show a 
bad high resistance unless there is a load (i.e drawn current).  Without a 
load, a meter could read full battery voltage available at wire ends, but with 
an actual load, the voltage at the wire could be significantly different.   One 
could measure continuity and/or resistance to help find a problem.  

For example, I recently installed a relay powered by the ignition key wire that 
lead to convenient terminal block.  The voltage at the terminal block when the 
key was turned on was 13.2V.  Once connected, the relay would not work as the 
terminal block voltage dropped to 4V.  The “Gremlin” (i.e. problem) was a bad 
4ft wire going from the key to the terminal block.  It was an old wire with 2 
crimped on ring terminals.  I just replace it with a tinned Ancor wire and new 
heat shrink terminals.  Once done, all worked perfectly with no voltage drop at 
the terminal block when the relay in operations.   

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 25, 2022, at 11:29 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ahhh. The old slant 6 trick….
> 
> Dave - clean all your grounds and clean and tighten all connections.  The 
> bouncing meter is a clue to an intermittent or loose connection.  It can also 
> be a switch oxidizing or otherwise failing.   
> 
>  I assume you are measuring your voltage with reference to a local ground.  
> (Meaning near the switch).  Measure that but also measure with the meter 
> connected to the battery ground (-) terminal directly.   If the values differ 
> you know you have a bad (high resistance) ground.   You can also verify this 
> by measuring the resistance between those points.  
> Mine had little  problems due to loose contacts in switches, poor diy 
> terminations, and a big problem most importantly, due to an oxidized lug 
> connecting the entire control harness to the engine.   It has been 
> bulletproof since I worked on it - cleaning, tightening, protecting with 
> dielectric grease and re-doing the prior owners substandard work.
> I assume you are working with a schematic, stepwise through each circuit. 
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 9:11 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> You need a  better meter that registers volts in tenths or hundreths of 
>> volts.  Sounds like the batteries are OK.  Eventually you will find a bad 
>> connection between the battery and the switch and the starter.  Best to 
>> eliminate those control wire harness quick connects and wire the red lead 
>> straight from the battery to the control panel and then back to the starter. 
>>  
>> 
>> I keep a large screw driver onboard and the rare times the panel button 
>> didn't work, I simply shorted the terminals at the starter, to override the 
>> solenoid and engage the starter.  I've since rewired that red wire and it 
>> starts every time using the panel start button.
>> 
>> Chuck S
>> 
>> 
>>  
>>> On 10/25/2022 10:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel 
>>> ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked at 
>>> the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key switch 
>>> on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere 
>>> downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not 
>>> understand what that means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird 
>>> thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery 
>>> meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and 
>>> then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the same time, the batteries are 
>>> measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is happening.  Dave
>>> 
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>> 
> 
>>> 
 On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
 HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right 
 direction.  Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought 
 i would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey 
 this summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to 
 replace key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow 
 but could not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after 
 rewiring. Come back next week and no response to start button. Battery 
 fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new 
 start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is 
 wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are supplying power to 
 downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and misremembered which wire 
 supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and checked meter and 12v on 

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for 
several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" 
x 3/4” 
x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.  

Here is the link to Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  I 
>> have both and find them similar.
>> 
>> Neil Schiller
>> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
>> Whitehall, Michigan
>> 
>> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is 
>>> sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 
>>> 
>>> Chuck S

Stus-List Re: Solar Panel on Bimini top

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I would highly recommend  3M Dual-Lock over Velcro for this use.   Dual-Lock is 
like Velcro on steroids.  From the data sheets for 3M Dual-Lock and 3M Hook and 
Loop,  Dual-Lock has a dynamic tensile disengagement of 60 lbs/in^2 whereas 
Hook and Look has a dynamic tensile disengagement of 9 lbs/in^2. 

When I installed flexible solar panels on my bimini, I pretty much followed the 
SailRite instructions but used Dual-Lock w/VHB tape (comes with it) on the 
panels and sewed the matching Dual-Lock to the bimini panel flaps.   Works like 
a dream. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> On Jul 27, 2022, at 9:43 AM, Novabraid via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My canvas maker has sewn sunbrella tabs with fuzzy Velcro underneath on the 
> bimini that run the length and width of the solar panel.  We were able to sew 
> lengths of the toothed Velcro directly to the perimeter of the panels.  The 
> tabs go over the outer edges of the panels, securing them in place on all 4 
> sides. As such, my panels can be easily removed when the bimini top needs to 
> be stowed away for weather events simply by peeling back the velcro.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 1983 Landfall 35
>  

Stus-List Re: air conditioner pump

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Chuck,

While my 16,500BTU Flagship Marine A/C unit came with a CalMS580  pump.   When 
I recently contacted FM about purchasing a spare, they  recommended the March 
AC-3CP-MD-115V pump as a better replacement.  They sell both on their website 
with the March pump costing $30 over the Cal.I have heard nothing but good 
recommendations for March pumps, so if I need a replacement, I will likely go 
with the March.  See links to both pumps below.   

March pump 
https://flagshipmarine.com/product/march-mag-drive-630-gph-pump-ac-3cp-md-115v/ 


Cal Pump 
https://flagshipmarine.com/product/cal-marine-580-gph-marine-pump-ms580-6-115v/ 



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 14, 2022 at 10:16 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hey guys, 
> 
> I need to replace the air conditioner pump and wondered if anybody has 
> recommendations.
> 
> Chuck

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Matthew,

I did not mention this in the last email, but I still use a lead acid battery 
for a dedicated start battery.   I have my alternator connected directly to the 
start battery and I also use a battery combiner for charging the house bank.  
This was my simple solution for protecting the alternator from BMS disconnects, 
and since I already had a good start battery and a battery combiner, this was a 
no-cost safe LiFePO4 charging solution.  

I do have the ability to use the LiFePO4 battery as a start back up.  I would 
expect LiFePO4 batteries to perform fine as starting batteries.  If anything, 
the constant 13.2V load voltage would keep your engine's starter happy.  Low 
voltage drops are terrible for electric motors (i.e. starters and anchor 
windlasses).

I have heard of some sailors using a LiFePO4 motorcycle battery for starting 
diesel engines.  These batteries weigh about 2 lbs and while the capacity may 
only be ~5AH, they claim cold cranking amps (CCA ) of over 300A.  I have little 
interest and am somewhat cautious about these claims, but at $60 they are cheap 
enough to test out and many have pretty good reviews.  Check out the 5AH TPE 
Lithium Motorcycle Battery on Amazon.   Since most marine diesel starters draw 
less than 150A, 5AH would amount to 5AH/150A*60m/H = 2 continuous minutes of 
cranking. That’s a lot of cranking and comparable to that of a 100AH rated lead 
acid battery (recall that a C/20 rated 100AH lead acid battery effectively 
provides only 10AH at 100A discharge load).  

I don’t have the interest in these for a start battery, but we do have some 
club racers who are suspected of removing every other screw and stripping down 
the boat to save on weight, so replacing 70 lbs with 2 lbs seems a bit starter. 


Paul


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



> 
>> On May 26, 2022, at 1:03 PM, Matthew via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> This is excellent information.  Thanks, Paul.
>>  
>> One of the reasons I have hung on to my lead acid house batteries is that my 
>> charger has settings for AGM, lead, and maybe one other, but all three 
>> batteries must be of the same type.  The lead acid starting battery is 
>> isolated (combined for charging) has good cranking amps, so I have continued 
>> to use lead acid for the house.  How well do LiFePO4 batteries perform as 
>> starting batteries? 
>>  
>> From: Dreuge via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
>> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 3:24 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc: Dreuge mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>>  
>> Dave,
>>  
>> As I mentioned in previously replies to the list, it no longer makes any 
>> sense to buy lead acid batteries(i.e. flooded, gel, or AGM)  for a house 
>> bank.   For lead acid, the AH capacity is highly dependent on the current 
>> load due to the Peukert Effect.   Deep cycle lead acid batteries are rated 
>> at C/20.  For a 100AH rated battery, this is 100AH/20H = 5A.   This is often 
>> called the 20H rate, i.e.  5A * 20H = 100AH. If the actual load is 20A, 
>> then the same 100AH rated lead acid battery would only provide 60AH (or 10AH 
>> at 100A).  And worse, one should only use 50% of a lead acid battery’s 
>> capacity as going below 50% substantially degrades the battery lifetime.   
>> This means that a 100AH lead acid battery has an effective 50AH @ 5A (or 
>> 30AH @ 20A).  
>>  
>> Let’s assume a 100AH lead acid battery price of $264 (the average of the 
>> Amazon prices), then 2 batteries would cost one $528 and one would get an 
>> effective 100AH (50%*200AH) at 5A loads.  
>>  
>> Now,  the price of LiFePO4 batteries have come way down in the last few 
>> years and their performance and lifetimes are a magnitude better.   A 100AH 
>> LiFePO4 battery is typically rated at 1C.  That is they can deliver 100AH at 
>> 100A for 1H(or 5A at 20H or 20A at 5H).  They can also charge at amps up to 
>> 100A which is impossible for a lead acid battery.   And LiFePO4 batteries 
>> live 5 times longer.  That is,  one would expect to replace 5 sets of lead 
>> acid batteries before replacing a LiFePO4 battery.Yes, LiFePO4 batteries 
>> are more complex as they require a battery management system (i.e. BMS), but 
>> there are companies which provide 12V drop in replacements with the BMS 
>> built internal to the battery.   Top companies like Battle Born sell a 100AH 
>> LiFePO4 for $874 and provide a 10yr warranty.   Renogy sells a 100AH LiFePO4 
>> for $765.   A company, CurrentConnected.com

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Dave,

As I mentioned in previously replies to the list, it no longer makes any sense 
to buy lead acid batteries(i.e. flooded, gel, or AGM)  for a house bank.   For 
lead acid, the AH capacity is highly dependent on the current load due to the 
Peukert Effect.   Deep cycle lead acid batteries are rated at C/20.  For a 
100AH rated battery, this is 100AH/20H = 5A.   This is often called the 20H 
rate, i.e.  5A * 20H = 100AH. If the actual load is 20A, then the same 
100AH rated lead acid battery would only provide 60AH (or 10AH at 100A).  And 
worse, one should only use 50% of a lead acid battery’s capacity as going below 
50% substantially degrades the battery lifetime.   This means that a 100AH lead 
acid battery has an effective 50AH @ 5A (or 30AH @ 20A).  

Let’s assume a 100AH lead acid battery price of $264 (the average of the Amazon 
prices), then 2 batteries would cost one $528 and one would get an effective 
100AH (50%*200AH) at 5A loads.  

Now,  the price of LiFePO4 batteries have come way down in the last few years 
and their performance and lifetimes are a magnitude better.   A 100AH LiFePO4 
battery is typically rated at 1C.  That is they can deliver 100AH at 100A for 
1H(or 5A at 20H or 20A at 5H).  They can also charge at amps up to 100A which 
is impossible for a lead acid battery.   And LiFePO4 batteries live 5 times 
longer.  That is,  one would expect to replace 5 sets of lead acid batteries 
before replacing a LiFePO4 battery.Yes, LiFePO4 batteries are more complex 
as they require a battery management system (i.e. BMS), but there are companies 
which provide 12V drop in replacements with the BMS built internal to the 
battery.   Top companies like Battle Born sell a 100AH LiFePO4 for $874 and 
provide a 10yr warranty.   Renogy sells a 100AH LiFePO4 for $765.   A company, 
CurrentConnected.com , sells a SOK 100AH LiFePO4 
battery for $569 and it has a 10 yr warranty!   YouTuber Will Prowse rates the 
SOK as the best value LiFePO4 12V drop in replacement (see 
https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html 
).  There are a 
plethora of cheaper 100AH LiFePO4 batteries that can be found on Amazon, Ebay, 
AliExpres, …, but one gets little service and limited warrantees,  so I would 
recommend avoiding these.

Rather than buying 2 100AH lead acid batteries for $528 at a total weight of 
140lbs(70lbs each) , one could just buy 1 100AH LiFePO4 for $569 weighing only 
28lbs and get a better performing battery.  That is basically the same price.   
If one takes into account the increased lifetime, the saving is HUGE!  

If one builds their own DIY LiFePO4 battery, the savings is much much greater.  
 Last year I replaced 2 100AH lead acid batteries with one DIY 560AH LiFePO4 
battery for a little over $900 (see my blog link below).  The DIY LiFePO4 
battery occupies the same location and physical space as the previous 2 lead 
acid batteries, it weighs much less (95 lbs vs 125 lbs), but has 5 TIMES the 
capacity.

I recently gave a talk on off-grid solar systems a local  amateur radio society 
meeting.  The discuss the battery as the heart of the system and make the case 
for LiFePO4 batteries.  My slides from the talk are available on my blog:

https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/10/solar-off-grid-system.html 



Also, the details of my DIY 560AH LiFePO4 are posted at the link below which 
includes details about alternator charging. 


https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/06/adding-new-lifepo4-to-house-battery.html
 



 


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 26, 2022, at 11:24 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have been following the battery discussion and have a question.  I need to 
> replace my two 9 year old AGM batteries this season.  I have separate start 
> and house batteries which can be combined if needed.  I don’t have large 
> power needs (electronics, autopilot and fridge when cruising).  I have been 
> reading and researching this and I am unsure of what to purchase.  From what 
> I have read, AH is the important number to focus on.  Last time, I got 
> Lifeline AGM group 27 from Defender.  Defender has 3 different group 27 
> batteries
> Powertech rated at 92AH  which cost about $330
> Lifeline  rated at 100AH for 432
> Northstar   rated at 92AH for 457
>   
> From Amazon, I can get a VMAX group 27 with 100AH for $289 or a Universal 
> with 110 AH for $239.  Is there any reason to be concerned about less known 
> (to me) brands from Amazon or does it make sense to just focus on the 
> numbers?  Thanks- Dave  
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

The gaskets that A used are EPDM foam cord.   This can be purchased in 3ft, 
10ft, or 100ft lengths from McMaster-Carr at “non-marine” prices.  The Landfall 
38 hatches use 3/8” diameter foam cord  for the small head/galley and 1/2” 
diameter cord for the larger A hatches.  For the small hatches which were 
repaired first,  I used the A recommended Silaprene Adhesive to glue in the 
gaskets.When I later replaced the gaskets for the larger A hatches, I 
used Dow 795 as the gasket adhesive.   Since I  was using the Dow 795 for 
reseating a new hatch lens, I saved on gasket adhesive costs.   The Dow 795 
worked just as good if not better than the Silaprene Adhesive. I highly 
recommend Dow 795 as the gasket adhesive over the Silaprene.  One pay a premium 
for Silaprene as it is not common and very limited in availability whereas a 
10oz cartridge of Dow 795 cost $12 at McMaster-Carr. 

Below are links to McMaster-Carr for the EPDM foam cord and Dow 795 and 2 links 
to my blog write-up for the hatch work.

https://www.mcmaster.com/gaskets/foam/ultra-weather-resistant-epdm-foam-cords/ 


https://www.mcmaster.com/dow-795/manufacturer~dow-corning/manufacturer-model-number~795/
 



Write-up for replacing larger A hatch lens and gasket

https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2019/01/replace-atkins-hoye-hatch-lens.html 



Write-up for replacing the smaller A hatch lens and gasket
https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/HatchWork 





-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 16, 2022, at 6:52 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> I got replacement gaskets from Hammerhead Nautical Systems...the owner used 
> to work for A even sent me a tube a adhesive to install them at no 
> cost. 
> 
> About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2022-02-13 9:35 p.m., RON CASCIATO via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Andrew, give Hatchmasters in Norwalk,  CT. a call.
>> It's been a few years but they have the parts and rebuilt my A hatch 
>> nicely. 
>> Ron C.
>> Impromptu
>> 38MKII, '77
>> 
> 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Re: 12 volt DC power supply

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

Yes, ATX computer power supplies are great and easy to get free.  I  scavenged 
a few that we were throwing out at work (Rosewell RD600N-2DB-SL-BK).   It 
provides 12V with a max current of 44A.  I use the PS to power my Yeasu FT-891 
HF SSB transceiver when I bring it home from the boat.  And with a couple cheap 
AliExpress DC-DC buck and boost converters, I use it as an Adjustable PS from 
1.2V to 60V .

Also, for low power needs (12V, 1A) I use an old wall wart power adapter. I cut 
off the DC plug end and soldered on pins to plugging into solder less 
breadboards.   It is not only free, but you get to use one of the items in the 
junk draw.

Paul


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 6, 2021, at 5:41 PM, schiller via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dennis,
> 
> I scavenged a power supply from an old desktop computer.  Well controlled 5V 
> and +/-12V.  The one that I scavenged was a 300W supply.  I use it to run my 
> Garmin Chartplotter during the off season to download trip data.  Computer 
> power supplies are incredibly cheap and the power quality is well regulated.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> 
> On 12/6/2021 3:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> Over the years, I've found a need for 12 volt power.  For instance, if I 
>> wanted to test a marine GPS or VHF.  My answer is usually to attach wires 
>> with alligators clips to the battery in my truck or to a 12 volt jump 
>> starter.  This is less than ideal..
>> 
>> I know there are inexpensive 120 VAC/12 volt power supplies out there.  I 
>> see them on eBay, Amazon, etc.  Many are just a box with no 120 VAC wire and 
>> plug.  Like this:
>> 
>> https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/RS-15-12?qs=ql1K%252BkDau3qz9%252BonMzIW2g%3D%3D=1
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> Ideally, I would like one that already has the 120 VAC cord and has a 
>> terminal strip to insert the stripped power wires of the device I'm testing. 
>>  Can some of you hobbyists point me towards an inexpensive but decent power 
>> supply?  It need not be powerful.  10 watts would probably suffice.
>> 
>> -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Winter Sailing: unwanted hitchhikers

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

The following news report is scary.  If this happened with my wife on board, 
she would never sail again.

https://www.timesnownews.com/the-buzz/article/7-foot-burmese-python-hitches-a-ride-on-a-couples-sailboat-rescued-by-police-pics/832488



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Burnished bottom paint

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

> On Nov 30, 2021, at 1:47 PM, Doug via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> This is the reason golf balls have dimples. Aides in better flight, less 
> resistance.  
> 
> 
> 

Yes (if spinning) and No (as it adds lateral resistance).

Going with a smooth surface is the overall best approach as it promotes smooth 
laminar flow.   There are times when a ruff surface helps maintain laminar 
flow.  For example, the dimples on a golf ball create a thin turbulent layer 
which drags air and helps keep the lamina flow closer to the surface behind the 
ball.  The dimples add resistance to the flow but reduces the air wake behind 
the ball which reduces the overall drag force.  The laminar flow around a 
smooth ball does not wrap around the back of the ball as well and leaves a 
larger wake.  The larger the wake, the larger the drag. 

I think it would be foolish to add dimples or an orange peel bottom, unless you 
have the resources to model and measure the effect for a particular boat.  
Maybe adding some aft ruffness as the hull as turns inward, but this will 
strongly depend on the individual hull shape and likely have a positive effect 
at high water speeds (and a negative effect at low).   Of course, a great way 
to reduce one's wake is to foil.

Most may recall that dimples of a spinning golf ball help in another and bigger 
way by providing lift(i.e. aids in better flight).  The spinning dimples drag 
air towards incoming flow and drag air away from the flow on the opposite side 
causing a high/low pressure difference (i.e.  lateral lift force).   This 
latter effect has not yet been exploited by sailors.   Who knows, maybe we’ll 
see a spinning belted keel in the future driven by Kiwi’s pedal power.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Wifi antenna at top of mast

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

 Hi,

As Dennis mentioned, I have a write up on installing a long range wifi system.  
 Looking back at the write up, I realized that it has been 6 years.   I 
installed the Ubiquiti BULLET-M2-HP(2GHz).  This same unit is still being sold 
along other versions for 5GHz and AC Dual-Bands.

It has been running flawlessly for the 6 years.  There is no need for a PVC 
sealed pipe!  I installed it with some silicone grease on the RJ-45 connection 
and a dab of Dow 795 silicone sealant (left over from the installation of the 
new ports) on the cat5 cable at the device base cap.  It has survived several 
FL Hurricanes and other nasty storms.  It has been maintenance free, and I 
leave it operating 24/7 and connect to several devices remotely (Wyze cam on 
the masthead and in the cockpit, a smart thermostat, a few smart AC outlets, 
and a raspberry pi that monitors my LiFePO4 battery).  

I highly recommend Ubiquiti devices, they are the “Victron” of anything WiFi 
(and very reasonably  priced too).

https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/WiFiWork 



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 10, 2021, at 12:03 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm using a Ubiquiti Bullet with 9db antenna as a booster, connected to a 
> basic home router, total cost about $200CAD, uses very little power on a 
> small inverter. The Bullet requires you to choose a wireless network using 
> their web interface, and a bit of other setup to work correctly. For now I 
> just poke the antenna under our dodger and it works ok, but plan to put it in 
> a PVC sealed pipe and mount on the solar arch eventually. Most of our local 
> cruising is in remote areas, so it hasn't seen much use so far. I also have 
> our radar (B Halo) connected to the router, which could allow me to view 
> the radar using OpenCPN, although I haven't tried it yet. 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Nov 10, 2021 at 3:18 AM DJ via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Hi all, 
> I think someone mentioned having an antenna at the top of the mast that helps 
> pull in distant wifi signals.  Can anyone point me in the direction of a 
> product that would help with picking up wifi while on the hook?  
> 
> Is it a 2 part system?  One to receive the signal at the top of mast 
> connecting to another,  in the boat, that transmits?
> 
> Danny
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: bottom wash

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I guess it depends on location, paint condition, but mostly quality of bottom 
paint.  Sometimes the oatmeal dries and nicely flacks off.  

I use a multi-season ablative Pettit Ultima SR-60.  It costs about $300 a 
gallon but it is a real performer in the FL Gulf area.  When I last hauled out 
Dec 2017, the bottom paint from Sep 2014 was in pretty good shape.  There was 
only a few barnacles along the waterline, but the what was green bottom, was 
covered with a black slim.  It was late in the day, and the marina was in a 
rush to get the boat placed in the blocks, so I opted to skip the pressure 
washing.  It was several days before I started working on the bottom, and to my 
surprise, the black slim had dried and lifted from the hull.  I removed it 
easily with a stiff brush, revealing green bottom paint below.   I sanded the 
whole bottom with 80 grit on an orbital sander, rinsed off the hull, and the 
next day applied the 1st of 2 coats of the same bottom paint.  The boat has now 
been in the water for nearly 4 years and still looks pretty good.  Again, I 
have the black slim, some barnacle growth along the waterline, which I clean 
about every 3 months.  It looks like I get another year or hopefully two.   But 
when I do haul out, I will not be pressuring washing.Not all is good.  I do 
have a real problem with hard barnacle and oyster growth on the prop, shaft, 
and transducers.  I tried many of the props paints, lastly being Velox Plus, 
but nothing seems to last over a year.  Open for suggestions.  I may break down 
for some propspeed next time.  



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 28, 2021, at 4:53 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Think about eating a bowl of oatmeal, leave the bowl on the counter  for a 
> couple weeks, vs put it in the sink with water, and clean a few hours later.
> So yeah, You want to get to this muy pronto.
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: G Gao via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> ] 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 4:33 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: G Gao
> Subject: Stus-List bottom wash
>  
> Hi,
>  
> Again a simple question that I have for experienced sailors.
>  
> In the past I have had the marina to "bottom wash" my boat when they do the 
> haul out. This year I wanted to do it myself (want to save myself a few 
> bucks), however this is not going to be at the time of haul out, but a couple 
> weeks later. Is the two weeks delay a problem?
>  
> Thank you in advance.
>  
> Bo
> 
>  
> -- 
> 1974 C 35 MK2
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: SV or S.V. or S/V?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I’ll take the bait and add some.  If you want to split the list along the 49th 
parallel then add SY (or S/Y) to the mix of discussion.  

I don’t think there is proper stylization.But if you go to the definitive 
source of all true facts, i.e. the Internet, you will see SV or S/V but not 
S.V. (and also SY or S/Y).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_prefix




-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 27, 2021, at 1:09 PM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> warning: religious debate
> 
> I’m interested to know the proper (in the US) stylization of the acronym for 
> Sailing Vessel.  Is it SV, S.V., or S/V?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your replies; I’ll go get some popcorn.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Joe,

Victron make a great premium product.  

Renogy has some  good options which are not as costly.   They make a 20A($115), 
40A(176), or 60A($234) DC2DC charger (all have configurable battery charging 
profiles).If you have a high output alternator then 60A DC2DC charger may 
be a reasonable option.  You would need 2 Victron 30A DC2DC chargers connected 
in parallel for an equivalent.

https://www.renogy.com/battery-chargers/ 


 I would stay away from any of the hybrid DC2DC charger w/ MPPT(Renogy has 
these too).  While it may sound nice to get the added functionality, these MPPT 
all have a low solar V_open_circuit(25V vs 100V normally).  This means that 
solar panels all have to be connected in parallel (more wiring, costs, and 
greater I^2R power loss) which also means the MPPT is limited resulting in 
PWM-like performance.   



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 21, 2021, at 2:59 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If I pull the trigger on this, it is going to be alternator > start battery > 
> DC-DC charger > lithium battery.
> So what say you lithium experts:
> This one
> Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt DC-DC 
> Charger, Non-Isolated (Bluetooth) : Electronics 
> 
>  
> Or 
>  
> Amazon.com: ATEM POWER 12V 40A DC to DC Battery Charger with MPPT Solar Panel 
> Controller for Lead Acid, AGM, Gel, Calcium, LiON Batteries, Multiple 
> Protection Design On-Board Charger : Patio, Lawn & Garden 
> 
>  
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Does anyone have experience with the Airmar WS-150WX?   

This is an ultra-sonic transducer that seems to measure just about everything:  
true/apparent wind, pressure, temp, gps, compas, pitch & roll, NMEA 0183/2000.

I currently have a regular cable-run Raymarine wind system.   It always works.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



> 
> On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 1:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi,
> 
>  
> 
> I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The main 
> reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the EV-100 
> autopilot.
> 
>  
> 
> I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC, though 
> (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).
> 
>  
> 
> I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navpod on 
> the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the 
> chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).
> 
>  
> 
> I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless unit.
> 
>  
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
>  
> 
> - Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B)? My 
> first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as opposed to 
> an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to connect. But this is 
> mainly to control the costs.
> 
>  
> 
> - With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed the 
> wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the detailed wind 
> angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the wind 
> display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not 
> required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine with 
> that.
> 
>  
> 
> - Any strong recommendations against the wireless?
> 
>  
> 
> - Any other suggestions or recommendations?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
> 
>  
> 
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> 
> Ottawa, ON
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu
> 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Stolen C 35 last reported in Eye of Larry

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I came across this article in Cruising Compass about a stolen C 35 whose 
EPRIB last reported its location in the eye of a hurricane.   I include the 
associated link for additional reading.   

The linked article is an interesting and somber read. For example, the boat 
owner describes his initial conversation with the coast guard, "They told me 
that my personal locator beacon had been activated and was showing a position 
in the middle of hurricane Larry, … They asked me if that seemed at all 
reasonable and I said, no, it doesn’t. It should be on the boat and the boat 
should be happily tied up at the Armdale Yacht Club.”

The article get even more bizarre by mentioning the suspect as a Royal Yachting 
Association Yachtmaster Certificate holder and drug smuggler who was earlier 
arrested on a burning sailboat with over 500 kg of cocaine off the coast of 
Nova Scotia and who later escaped police custody while at a hospital.I hope 
both the vessel and the drug smuggling boat thief survive.  I would love to 
watch the movie with a happy ending.


Stolen Yacht Disappears in Hurricane Larry
 
https://boatwatch.org/current-watches/bolo-sv-secret-plans-stolen-from-halifax-harbor-canada-sets-off-plb-in-eye-of-hurricane-larry/
 




-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Riley,

While I’m not an advocate for drop-in replacements, but your statements about 
them cutting off ones VHF, depth, chartplotter, bilge pumps, radar, etc. is 
plainly false.   The BMS in these drop-ins use separate charging and 
discharging power MOSFET, so yes the built in BMS can stop an over charge but 
they are still able discharge as normal.   This is in essence a dual buss 
system, but at the board level.   There are plenty of cruisers using these 
drop-ins and many of them are sponsored companies you mentioned, SV Delos being 
the most notable was sponsored by Battleborn.  I do know some people who prefer 
a relayed controlled BMS.  For relays BMS systems,  you do want or should have 
separate charging  and discharging buses, but that is due to the nature of the 
two way flow of relays.

The Lithium fires that we all hear about are not the same battery chemistry.  
The Lithium batteries in laptops, phones, Teslas and some power hand tools are 
the lithium-ions: LiCoO2, LiMgO2, …These have higher energy density which 
is why the are used, but they are not as safe as LiFePO4.  While the Li-Ions 
are know to produce excessive heat, which leads to thermal runaway (ie. 
fire/explosions), the LiFePO4 does not.   


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



>  
> From: Riley Anderson via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2021 11:39 AM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe  >; Riley Anderson  >
> Subject: Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?
>  
> Hi Joe and any others interested in this topic.
>  
> I install lithium batteries as my side job and after installing lithium on 
> our 38-ii and other large boats and consulting on another half dozen boats, I 
> can speak with some authority on this topic.
>  
> The risk of serious electrical or fire damage can be entirely mitigated by 
> properly installing the right equipment and following a strict circuit 
> topology. Most people who have installed lithium do not do this and this is 
> precisely why we hear about "lithium fires" so commonly.
>  
> Before diving into the details, you should be aware that in order to safely 
> install lithium batteries on a boat, you need to buy top-quality gear that is 
> compatible with the exact lithium chemistry of your batteries. Can you use an 
> AGM charge profile from the old charger you have lying around? Sure, you may 
> be willing to take more risks than others but this is not acceptable in a 
> professional install and it also reduces the efficiency of your expensive 
> batteries that you bought for their high efficiency in the first place! It is 
> these "indirect" costs of making the lithium safe aboard that will 
> dramatically increase the investment cost. Also, in order to take full 
> advantage of the perks of lithium you need to be able to efficiently charge 
> the system. This means a substantial solar array or very high output 
> alternator (often requiring serpentine belts and larger pulleys). For the 
> weekend sailor or anyone tied to a dock most of their season, these costs 
> cannot be justified over conventional lead-acid or AGM technology.
>  
> My wife and I live aboard and spend our entire season on anchor or mooring. 
> This is where lithium shines. We have 720 watts of solar and 320 Ah of 
> lithium. We run a fridge, separate freezer, fans, computers, microwave, 
> electric kettle, with enough excess power each day to either make 6 gallons 
> of hot water through the inverter or run a 5000 BTU air conditioner on high 
> for 5 hours through the night. We have all the luxuries of home and are never 
> concerned about running out of power. 
>  
> The details:
>  
> The Battleborn, Dakota, and Renogy batteries that advertise a "drop-in" 
> replacement for lead-acid should never be used on a boat. These were designed 
> for van-lifers who can pull over and escape if something goes horribly wrong. 
>  
> The key with lithium is that you need to protect both your boat and its 
> electronics and your substantial investment in batteries. Lithium batteries 
> will not tolerate overcharging, this is where the fire risk comes in. On the 
> other hand, over-discharging will not cause a fire risk but will destroy your 
> battery. The "drop-in" replacement batteries "solve" this by disconnecting 
> their terminals in the case of either overcharge or over-discharge. This is 
> unacceptable on a boat for two reasons: 1) most obviously, if you lose all DC 
> power underway, you no longer have VHF, depth, chartplotter, bilge pumps, 
> radar, etc. 2) if the alternator is spinning but there is no battery to 
> accept the charge, it will send unregulated voltage through the entire 
> electrical system.
>  
> The proper way to install lithium involves implementing a dual-DC bus 
> topology where all of the 

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Joe,

I already suggested this to another lister, purchase 4 small 6AH LiFePO4 cells 
and a decent BMS.  Connect the cells in a 4S configuration along with the BMS 
wires.  It is a great way understand the BMS operations and run through many 
charge/discharge tests. 

I did this recently with 4 cells (type  32700 6AH LiFePO4) purchased from Ebay 
($24).  I clamped the cells together between 2 scrap pieces of starboard, and I 
used some 1” wide copper braid for making the 4S battery cell connections, but 
other material should work fine.  I did this to test a second BMS, identical to 
my first except the new one has a RS485 com port.  Both have bluetooth and the 
iOS app is great, but I wanted to connect the BMS to a raspberry pi for 
graphing long term performance and remote monitoring.  

Here are a few link:

eBay LiFePO4 cells: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283963906954

BMS: 

https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/4s-or-3s-12v-li-ion-or-lifepo4-battery-smart-bms-with-bluetooth-function-uart-and-rs485-communication-with-60a-to-120a-constant-current/
 


I choose the BMS options: 4S 120A Lifepo4 With UART and RS485 and I also 
purchased the $7 RS485 communication module for USB connection.  

You may or may not want to hack around with the RS485 and keep it simple with 
just the Bluetooth interface, only a $2-3 difference.  This BMS is highly 
recommended from the solar DIY community, and I am very happy with its 
operations. 

I just threw some photos of this set up on my blog (no text).  See link below.  
The last photo shows the out from a simple python program which read the BMS 
data via USB cable and plots the values for the past 2 hrs and 48hrs.

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/5300937164934526048/7297536651823236179?hl=en

Paul

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Fwd: Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

The message below bounced back to me as I tried to include a pdf file.  I 
replaced the attachment with a google doc link andI’m  resending the message.  
Sorry if you get the message twice.

Paul
...

Hi,


This was my argument last year, but the costs for LFP is now less than Walmart 
batteries!   It depends on one needs.  I agree that there are little to no 
benefits for day sailing.  

I went a little overboard and replaced 2 group 31s with 560AH which cost me 
under $1k USD.  I could have cut that in half for 280AH.

What’s the upside? 
* occupies the same space & location used by the 2 group 31s 
* weighs less (95 lbs vs 125 lbs)
* over 5 TIMES the original capacity
* no more watering batteries
* no more replacing batteries
* equivalent in capacity to over TEN (10) Walmart Deep Cycle batteries  
  
I have attached a link to slides from a talk I gave last week at a local HAM 
radio club which basically covers the LifePO4, solar, and power upgrade 
process. 


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-6GIrXPr5SEE5HWvAzs6yEt3K4x7y-lF/view?usp=sharing
 
<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-6GIrXPr5SEE5HWvAzs6yEt3K4x7y-lF/view?usp=sharing>



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/>




> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: Dreuge 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?
> Date: September 14, 2021 at 1:47:27 PM EDT
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" , CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> 
> 
> This was my argument last year, but the costs for LFP is now less than 
> Walmart batteries!   It depends on one needs.  I agree that there are little 
> to no benefits for day sailing.  
> 
> I went a little overboard and replaced 2 group 31s with 560AH which cost me 
> under $1k USD.  I could have cut that in half for 280AH.
> 
> What’s the upside? 
>   * occupies the same space & location used by the 2 group 31s 
>   * weighs less (95 lbs vs 125 lbs)
>   * over 5 TIMES the original capacity
>   * no more watering batteries
>   * no more replacing batteries
>   * equivalent in capacity to over TEN (10) Walmart Deep Cycle batteries  
>   
> I have attached slides from a talk I gave last week at a local HAM radio club 
> which basically covers the whole power upgrade process. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/>
> 
>> On Sep 14, 2021, at 12:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Agree with Randy.  The cost of Lithium batteries and all the necessary 
>> power/charging management devices, prohibits the purchase unless you plan to 
>> keep the boat for twenty or thirty years.  I would only do it for a newer, 
>> bigger boat that can support enough Solar Panels to be off grid, like a big 
>> cat.  Otherwise, keep it simple. 
>> 
>> Several YouTube sailors have installed the system and I can find those links 
>> if interested.  Or google "Sailing Uma", "Ran Sailing", and/or "Sail Life" 
>> along with "lithium batteries"
>> 
>> Chuck S
>>> On 09/14/2021 11:52 AM Randal Stafford via CnC-List >> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> What’s the upside?
>>> 
>>> I got seven years out of a pair of group 29s Everstarts from Walmart, just 
>>> replaced for $90 each.  And I just replaced the alternator on my A4, which 
>>> lasted 49 years.
>>> 
>>> But the way I use my boat doesn’t require having a state-of-the-art battery 
>>> system.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> Randy 
>>> 
>>>> On Sep 14, 2021, at 7:27 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> My batteries are about shot and I am thinking of going to lithium 
>>>> batteries. I have to say I thought I knew this stuff and it seems 
>>>> massively confusing with a ton of directly contradictory information. One 
>>>> big issue seems that if the BMS disconnects for any reason, that will do a 
>>>> lot of damage to your alternator and perhaps other equipment too. Add to 
>>>> that my regulator does not have a specific lithium setting, I would need 
>>>> to get into the custom menus and try and make one.
>>>> What seems to be the best bet is just to connect the alternator to the 
>>>> start ba

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Joe,

What is your alternator rated at?   I was lucky to charge my FLA batteries at 
half rating, but now I easily charge at 110A.   You may want to consider the 
Renogy DCC1212-60A or the DCC50S \(w/ MPPT). 

Balmer sells these alternator protectors which are basically a short wire with 
a Zener in the middle.  You connect one end to +V alternator terminal and the 
other end to the alternator GND terminal.  But as you pointed out, you get one 
life protection, but worse is figuring that out.


Paul


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 14, 2021, at 1:30 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My alternator might hit 50 amps on a really good day, so a 40 amp DC-DC 
> charger would be plenty.
> BTW, the usual alternator protectors are 16 or 18 volt Zener diodes. I had 
> occasion to test that once and it did burn the diode up, but the alternator 
> was saved 
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: Dreuge via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2021 1:17 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Dreuge mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?
>  
> Hi Joe,
>  
> I made the change to LiFePO4 this year.   And yes, I chose to keep the 
> lead-acid start battery with the alternator directly connected to it.   I 
> originally planned on using a DC-DC charger (both w/ and wo/ MPPT solar  
> charging) for charging the LiFePO4 battery.The issue with DC-DC chargers 
> are the limiting charging current, 30A for Victron units, and 50A/60A for 
> others. I have a 120A alternator and to get the most out of it, would 
> require using multiple DC-DC chargers in parallel.  
>  
> My solution was rather simple.  Use the existing Blue Sea SI-ARC but in a 
> switched control mode.  I first installed a manual push-pull switch and then 
> built an Arduino smart switch which senses the ignition power to control a 
> relay switch for the ACR.  I even added temp sensors: one for alternator 
> temperature and the other for the LiFePO4 battery(don’t charge LiFePO4 
> batteries at temps below freezing).   I have it documented on my blog (see 
> links below).
>  
> I do like Sterling Power’s alternator protector and will likely install one 
> in the future.
>  
> My recommendation is to focus on the battery system first.  LiFePO4 drop-in 
> replacements are economical, but putting together a DIY LiFePO4 battery is 
> simple and affordable.  I replaced 2 group 31 deep cycle 110AH batteries with 
> a 560AH LiFePO4 battery.  
>  
> LiFePO4 battery build
> https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/06/adding-new-lifepo4-to-house-battery.html
>  
> <https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/06/adding-new-lifepo4-to-house-battery.html>
>  
> Solar System
> https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/07/electrical-power-system-w-solar.html
>  
> <https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/07/electrical-power-system-w-solar.html>
>  
>  
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>  
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/>
> 
> 
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

I made the change to LiFePO4 this year.   And yes, I chose to keep the 
lead-acid start battery with the alternator directly connected to it.   I 
originally planned on using a DC-DC charger (both w/ and wo/ MPPT solar  
charging) for charging the LiFePO4 battery.The issue with DC-DC chargers 
are the limiting charging current, 30A for Victron units, and 50A/60A for 
others. I have a 120A alternator and to get the most out of it, would 
require using multiple DC-DC chargers in parallel.  

My solution was rather simple.  Use the existing Blue Sea SI-ARC but in a 
switched control mode.  I first installed a manual push-pull switch and then 
built an Arduino smart switch which senses the ignition power to control a 
relay switch for the ACR.  I even added temp sensors: one for alternator 
temperature and the other for the LiFePO4 battery(don’t charge LiFePO4 
batteries at temps below freezing).   I have it documented on my blog (see 
links below).

I do like Sterling Power’s alternator protector and will likely install one in 
the future.

My recommendation is to focus on the battery system first.  LiFePO4 drop-in 
replacements are economical, but putting together a DIY LiFePO4 battery is 
simple and affordable.  I replaced 2 group 31 deep cycle 110AH batteries with a 
560AH LiFePO4 battery.  

LiFePO4 battery build
https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/06/adding-new-lifepo4-to-house-battery.html
 


Solar System
https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/07/electrical-power-system-w-solar.html 



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 14, 2021, at 9:27 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My batteries are about shot and I am thinking of going to lithium batteries. 
> I have to say I thought I knew this stuff and it seems massively confusing 
> with a ton of directly contradictory information. One big issue seems that if 
> the BMS disconnects for any reason, that will do a lot of damage to your 
> alternator and perhaps other equipment too. Add to that my regulator does not 
> have a specific lithium setting, I would need to get into the custom menus 
> and try and make one.
> What seems to be the best bet is just to connect the alternator to the start 
> battery and use a DC-DC charger to charge the lithium bank. Some of them also 
> take solar input, so that saves me buying a solar controller with lithium 
> settings, which is something else I don’t currently have.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boric Acid Powder

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I had a problem with Rats in my shed.  I sprinkled some dehydrated ghost pepper 
flakes around and the problem was gone.I gave some of the same ghost pepper 
flakes to a colleague who had a rat that would visit his kitchen late at night. 
 He sprinkled the flakes behind the stove where he believed the rat(s) were 
getting in.  Problem also gone, but his eye watered for days when he went to 
the kitchen.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 31, 2021, at 3:21 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Peppermint oil does seem to keep the mice at bay in the house.  But one has 
> to change it out fairly often.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
> On Monday, August 30, 2021, 03:36:12 PM CDT, George Cone via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> To update you on the dryer sheets, around here people use them to stop mice 
> moving in to their boats and all, well I was just in working on a snowmobile 
> groomer and it was full of dryer sheets, and as I lifted the console to check 
> on some wiring there was a family of 6 mice nestled in the dryer sheets! So 
> better find something else to use.
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Steve,

You likely would want a Buck Algonquin packing box.  Model # B/A 00PB113 is for 
a 1-1/8” shaft and comes in 3 versions with the proper Buck Algonquin hose  
different tube sizes 1-3/4”, 2”, 2-1/4".  It uses 3/16” packing, and I highly 
recommend using GFO marine shaft packing.  See links below for reference.


Buck Algonquin stuffing box
https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/marine-complete-assembly-packing-boxes 



GFO packing:
https://www.emarineinc.com/categories/GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing 



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 13, 2021, at 7:10 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> From: Stephen Thorne via CnC-List  > 
> Date: 7/12/21 5:43 PM (GMT-08:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Stephen Thorne  > 
> Subject: Stus-List Stuffing Box 
> 
> Folks my 1990 34+ has the PSS shaft seal system. I want to swap it out for a 
> traditional stuffing box and am looking for advise on which stuffing box 
> manufacturers to look into. My prop shaft is 1 &1/8” which may be a challenge 
> finding a suitable match but hopefully not a big deal.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Stephen Thorne
> 34+ Deja Vu’
> 770.722.2848

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Add LiFePO4 to my LF38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I recently built and installed a new LiFePO4 560AH battery. Total cost under 
$1k.  Prices for LiFePO4 batteries are becoming dirt cheap for the DIY 
installation.  For those interested I have added a post about the process on my 
blog:

https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/06/adding-new-lifepo4-to-house-battery.html

With a new inverter and solar installation, this has become a game changer.

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast Height for Bridge Clearance

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

All good questions.  First off, practice is key.  I am surprised by the number 
of folks who wait until getting to a bridge to heel for the first time.   If 
one can’t heel out in the bay and not confidently drive a heeled boat out in 
the bay, then don’t try at a bridge.   I am sure the infamous YouTuber was not 
on their first run about.   Someone suggested sailing close hauled.  That could 
be a recipe for ruining your day, week, and more.  

Assuming one knows their mast height (MH) above the water and the bridge height 
(BH), then the angle of heel (A) is a cosine relation: BH/MH = cos(A).  But 
trying to heel to a specific angle is the wrong approach.  It is better to fill 
up the water bag(s) next to your boat, making sure that the filled bag(s) 
height above the water is greater than the distance you need to heel(i.e., = MH 
- BH +1ft or more).  Then when you swing the water bag(s) out, it will lower as 
the boat heels.  If the bag(s) lower by 3ft then your mast has lowered by 3ft.  
 This is much better than trusting a bubble on an inclinometer.

Those who think they can drop an empty bag in the water and winch it up full 
have never tried. Fill up your bag(s) with a pump.  I started off using an old 
Rule 1500 bilge pump connected to pvc fittings and a long pipe which I would 
snorkel hook on the bag with the pump submerged.  I now also use a wash down 
pump.

Water bags. I know someone who made their own bag and have been using it for 
years on their Pearson 422.  I use three US military water lister bags 
purchased on Ebay(reminds me of my days as an Army Medic).  These lister bags 
are indestructible, but only hold 36 gallons gallons each.  I am now convinced 
that using multiple bags is a benefit.I purchased 2 lister bags for $20, 
but when I went to purchase #3, the best price at the time was $40 (i.e $60 
total).   They should also be readily available at most army surplus stores.

I believe in a controlled heel.  I use a spinnaker pole with fore and aft guy 
lines keeping the pole end fixed, a block & line with both ends of the line 
tied to the water bag(s).  Think of a clothesline system to control the water 
bag going out and coming in.  I actually sue two after guys, one lazy, fore of 
the bag(s), which can be rigged to relax the other,  allowing the bag(s) to go 
out further than the pole length. 

Don’t skip on control lines.  At large heel, the bag(s) will want to move out, 
but as the heel decreases, the bag(s) want to move back towards the boat. 
Without a control line,  you could have a run away 900lb-ish wrecking ball 
accelerating towards your boat!  That could hurt.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 4, 2021, at 6:27 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Interesting video but I can't imagine this is something a first time novice 
> should attempthow much weight does your boat need to heel, how high off 
> the water is the weight, are you confident steering to get the weight from 
> vertical to mast to heeled over, will the actual heel be enough to clear the 
> bridge, how do you determine the angle of heel needed to clear the bridge?
> 
> I doubt this was the first time this boat and this skipper did this.  
> Nevertheless, there still had to be a first time and that must have been 
> exciting.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 3277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> On 2021-05-04 6:13 p.m., Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:
>> That might work, but you will probably shit your pants as you come under it.
>> You might experiment with 4 or 500 pounds of garbage hung off your halyard 
>> and see how much of a lean you get.
>>  
>> 85 Ft Mast Under A 65 Ft Bridge - YouTube 
>> 
>>  
>>  
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>  
>> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Water along toe rail

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Amazon sell self watering wicking cord.   It is made from a polyester-mixed 
fiber, so it may have some UV resistance.  It costs $10 per 50ft, so even if it 
has a limited life, you would have plenty to spare.


https://www.amazon.com/Watering-Capillary-Self-watering-Automatic-Hydroponic/dp/B07CLNGBRL



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 29, 2021, at 2:09 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> That's exactly what I did.  Worked great but UV killed it in a few months.  
> It fell apart.
> 
> Sewed two short pieces of lamp wick under a single long piece.  The short 
> pieces laid in the puddle on the deck and the long piece went out through the 
> toe rail and hung down a few inches.  Great design.  No longevity.
> 
>   -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 11:13 AM Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I just sew two flat oil lamp wicks into a T and place through the hole in the 
> toe rail. The T holds them in place. Available online or in any outdoor store.
> 
> Mike
> Atacama 33ii
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List HTML/XML code in messages

[Dreuge]

Hi,

Has anyone found a solution to eliminate the html/xml code that is now coming 
in on some digest messages?   I am finding most of these messages are 
unreadable.





-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Hurricane prep.

[Dreuge]

Sally was a surprise.  The day before, Sally was heading to New Orleans, then 
it stopped moving, and when the wobbling was over, it was heading right for 
Flora-Bama with the worst of the storm east of the eye.  The Fort Walton Beach 
area took a beating.  The forecast went from 30ish knt tropical storm winds to 
hurricane force winds with record breaking flooding. Yes, our club is also good 
at requiring all vessels to vacate when a hurricane warning is issued, and if 
one does not leave, then the club would anchor the vessel out, charge the owner 
for the service, and, as per FL law, not be liable for any resulting damages.   
But it all happened so quick that it was just too late.   We had to weather it 
out at the docks.  The flooding was several feet higher than anything I seen 
there before, but surprisingly not too much damage except for shredded canvas 
as many dodgers and biminis were left out fully opened.  We benefited greatly 
from the wind direction coming from the south-east with the clubhouse and a 
small strip of land providing some protection.But we also feel that because 
the water level was several feet over the docks, that the wooden docks took 
less of a  pounding compared to some recent tropical storms.   I am sure that 
for the next gulf storm our commodore will order an evacuation much earlier 
even if the storm ends up in Brownville, TX.  Life is full of lessons.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 16, 2020, at 7:06 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 22:17:28 + (UTC)
> From: cenel...@aol.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Hurricane prep.
> To: capt...@gmail.com , cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> 
> Message-ID: <2127038029.3198586.1600294648...@mail.yahoo.com 
> >
> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>   boundary="=_Part_3198585_162278239.1600294648846"
> 
> --=_Part_3198585_162278239.1600294648846
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> Hopefully the damage to your boat and dock=C2=A0won=E2=80=99t be too extens=
> ive.
> Our club requires boats over about 24 ft to vacate their slip when a hurric=
> ane warning is issued for the county. Most anchor in a nearby fairly wide a=
> nd deep (in NC deep is 7 ft or more!)=C2=A0creek that our marina abuts. Som=
> e get hauled out at local boatyards. Either way, the dock has a better chan=
> ce of surviving without the boats.
> Of course, anchoring is also=C2=A0a crap shoot since other=E2=80=99s boats =
> can drag and take another ashore or aground.
> I anchored=C2=A0Water Phantom before Iasias came thru. Since=C2=A0I was tra=
> veling for the next several weeks (during=C2=A0the peak hurricane season) I=
> left her=C2=A0there (saw her yesterday!)=C2=A0with 2 anchors (~60 lb and 3=
> 0 lb danforths). My plan is to leave her there until early October. Current=
> ly she shares the=C2=A0creek with only 1 other boat.
> =C2=A0I=C2=A0took the=C2=A0headsail down and wrapped, secured mainsail and =
> boom (good) and=C2=A0turned everything but=C2=A0the ACR off (bad) since it =
> was =E2=80=98new=E2=80=99 to me and as I left the boat didn=E2=80=99t reali=
> ze that it drew some amps(about 15 mA)=E2=80=94hopefully after 10 weeks I w=
> ill still have some battery power left!
> Good luck to all in any hurricane=E2=80=99s path=E2=80=94no matter how well=
> you prepare your boat, ultimately it comes down to luck and your insurance=
> .=C2=A0=C2=A0Unfortunately, neither=C2=A0life nor anchoring is risk free.
> Charlie NelsonWater Phantom

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Oh Boogers,

I guess I have to cancel my escape plans from the Republic of Gilead ...

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 16, 2020, at 11:55 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2020 11:39:57 -0400
> From: Doug Robinson  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI
> Message-ID: <298faaa5-196a-7d2b-4f9a-1c16d9f27...@gmail.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Not gonna allow anyone from the colonies into Canada.sorry but 
> Justin is right.? Boat is up on the cradle for the third year.
> 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

And we should add an award for the longest length of ownership!


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 15, 2020, at 10:03 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range
> Message-ID:
> ??? 
>   
> >
> ??? 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I was 10 when my boat was built and 14 when we bought her.
> 
> 
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35? MK I
> www.dellabarba.com 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Human Age? 

How about the oldest and youngest of the C era vessel?  That would be an 
interesting honor.


Regarding age spans, the limits are less meaning full.  For example, the local 
amateur
radio club has about the same 35 - 86 limits, but mean of the distribution  is
likely 70.  On the other hand, the age spread of our clubs Viper fleet is about 
16 - 68,
with an average age in the 20s.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 15, 2020, at 8:54 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2020 08:16:02 -0400
> From: James Hesketh mailto:jameshesk...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Randy wrote:
> 
>> So far we?ve got:
>> 
>> Youngest: Luke Wolbrink, age 35
>> Wisest: Doug Robinson, age 86
>> 
>> I?m in that range, 56.  Neither young nor wise :)
>> 
>> Good to see some young people here - way to go guys.
>> 
> 
> These ages parallel the informal surveys from various motorcycle groups I
> belong to. Maybe youngsters don't like motion?
> 
> I'm 64 and have been motorcycling most of my life, and sailing for 2/3s of
> it.
> 
> Jim Hesketh
> C 26
> Miami, Fl

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Re: Stus-List Zoom Rendezvous

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

If needed I can set up a zoom for max occupancy of 300.

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 14, 2020, at 11:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2020 02:19:26 +
> From: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Zoom Rendezvous
> Message-ID:
>   
>   
> >
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> It?s our new normal all this virtual everything
> I am a southeast regional sales manager
> And have been training , conferences , shows ... all virtual and sales are up!
> Would love to do a big meeting
> Think I have the 100 Occupancy
> Program :)
> 
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com 

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Re: Stus-List Shift lever DIY

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I had a similar shift lever breakage on my on C 29-1.  It was the old style 
shifters with cable going through separate tubes.  I made my own replacement 
from aluminum stock.  It was real simple to do.  I used a jig saw with a metal 
cutting blade to ruff cut out the lever and sanded it on a belt sander. 
Aluminum sands well almost like a hard wood.  After drilling the 2 holes, It 
came out real nice looking. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 6, 2020, at 9:39 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: CnC-List  > on behalf of John and Maryann Read 
> via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 7:21:27 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: John and Maryann Read  >
> Subject: Stus-List Shift lever
> 
> 
> A friend?s circa 1980 36 shift lever broke while docking this weekend.  It 
> was an exciting docking maneuver with crew climbing into the engine to 
> manually shift but all is well.  Any advice on obtaining a replacement?
> 
> Edson system with separate throttle and shift levers each in its own tube 
> either side of the pedestal.  Lever is cast aluminum
> 
> 
> 
> TIA
> 
> 
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

My mistake on assuming the 1974 35 was a Mk1, as Don noted the 1974 is a Mk2.  
I first looked for the iconic star & sword, but I did not see it.  This is why 
I check and noted the hull number.I recall seeing only a strait hull line 
going forward which ends up by the bow followed by a forward embedded bow 
navigation light.

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



> On Jul 1, 2020, at 10:44 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2020 09:24:43 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> JohnKelly,
> 
> I'm not sure the 35 MkII has the star / sword.  I know the MkI doesn't.
> Can any MKII owner verify that?
> 
> Otherwise, I'll take my Sawzall and see if I can get them if Mike will let
> me cut the boat.
> 
>  --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I went looking around a marine salvage yard today and came across a 1974 C 35 
(CCY353221174) which is about to be parted.  The vessel did not look damaged so 
I asked about it.   The owner of the yard (Southern Cross Salvage) said that it 
is being scrapped because there is no vessel title.  Seems odd.  While it is 
well aged and a bit neglected, this would be a good chance for 35-1 owners to 
get some original parts.

Southern Cross Ships Chandlery
103 Myrick St
Pensacola, FL 

(850) 377-1776


Paul

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Gary,

I have a rebuilt Yanmar 3QM30 in my 81 LF38.  The 3QM30 has about 5 extra HP 
than the newer Yanmar 3YM30, but I have found that the 3QM30 had more than 
enough power and extra to spare.  A new 3YM30 was recommended by Yanmar as a 
replacement  a few years back when I rebuilt the 3QM30.  I don’t know about the 
Perkins, but the Yanmar was a reasonable DIY rebuild.  Mine cost under $2,000.  
See: http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/EngineWork 



As for a prop, I have a Martec Eliptec folding propeller.   It came original to 
me, and has been working fine.  They are no longer made, but here are the 
marking on the prop.  ELIPTEC LH18DX14P - 3" and "1-1/8” shaft.

Paul

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jun 30, 2020, at 2:33 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Gary Niemi via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 7:55 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Gary Niemi
> Subject: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38
> 
> 
> 
> We are American expatriates who have sailed our 1981 C Landfall 38 to New 
> Zealand a decade ago. It has a Perkins 4-108, which is on its last legs. It's 
> not particularly reliable and is having trouble with overheating in the last 
> few years. Also, it's very heavy and it is way too much power anyway. We're 
> looking to replace it with a more reliable, modern power plant.
> 
> 
> 
> So we have a couple of questions:
> 
> 
> 
> What is the correct power? I understand most were sold with Yanmer 30hp 3HM 
> or 3QM diesels. We like the idea of saving a lot of weight with a smaller 
> engine than the Perkins, as well as ease of access, etc. However, we'd 
> consider a 35 or 38 also if 30 horsepower wasn't enough power.
> 
> 
> 
> At the same time we'll be replacing the fixed 2 blade prop with a 3 blade 
> feathering or folding prop, so will be looking for recommendations for that. 
> The current prop is totally wrong. I think it's 16x14. We never were able to 
> get up to the proper engine speed with the 4-108. Can you recommend 
> something? What have people tried?
> 
> 
> 
> Interested in hearing others' experiences.
> 
> 
> 
> Gary Niemi
> g...@niemi.co.nz 

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Re: Stus-List Isotherm ASU refrigeration troubleshooting

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I have the Isotherm 3751 ASU SP system and I experienced something similar last 
Fall.  The unit was alternately flashing yellow/red and was not working.  I 
shut turned off the power at the breaker, clean up the defrosted moisture in 
the bottom, and threw out the mayo, mustard, and ketchup.  I turned the unit 
back on and it started working.  I started reading up on Isotherm ASU trouble 
shooting, but the unit has been working fine since.   

Prior this occurrence, I noticed a good amount of frost build up on the cold 
plate which I attributed to a poor seal on the access lid.  I have since 
improved the lid seals and added a 1” foam mat (cut from an exercise mat) to 
cover over the whole top.   I don’t know if it was the power cycling, some odd 
frost build up issue with ASU, or something else, but the units has been 
continuous running fine for over 7 months now (knock on teak).

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jun 18, 2020, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2020 09:23:23 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Isotherm ASU refrigeration troubleshooting
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> For those of you with a similar system, Touche' has an Isotherm 3701 ASU
> refrigeration system.  Got on the boat last Friday and it was not running.
> The thermostat panel was alternately flashing yellow/red.
> The operating manual said this indicates a fault in the electronic module.
> 
> Following Isotherm's and generic Danfoss/SECOP compressor troubleshooting
> procedures, I removed the red Isotherm ASU control module from the Danfoss
> control module.  It was simply plugged in and was easily removed by
> pulling.  (The ASU module senses voltage on the boat and increases chilling
> when it sees increased voltage due to  shore power or the engine running.)
> 
> With the breaker off, I jumpered the "T" (thermostat) and "C" (compressor)
> connectors on the Danfoss module then flipped the breaker on.  There is a
> 60 second delay built into the Danfoss control.  This is NOT reflected in
> troubleshooting tips.  After 60 seconds, the compressor kicked on.  That
> indicated the fault may be in the thermostat circuit.
> 
> I removed the telephone jack style thermostat connector which was plugged
> into the ASU module, applied Tefgel, plugged it back in and out a few times
> and put the unit back together.  Voila!  It works now.  Just a dirty
> connection on the thermostat plug in connector.  Love $0 solutions.
> 
> When I installed the unit, I had coated all the connections except the two
> telephone jack style connectors with TefGel.  Now all connections are
> coated.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

There are two types of Landfall 38s.  Those who have had the aluminum fuel tank 
replaced, and those who need the aluminum fuel tank replaced.   The original 
fuel tanks were set in polyurethane foam, which is the reason they rusted out 
quickly (Not a good idea on C part).   

I was fortunate in that a previous owner replaced the fuel tank and in doing so 
encased the new tank in fiberglass.   But when I went through my refit, I 
removed, emptied, cleaned, and thoroughly inspected the inside.You only 
need to cut a V-notch out of the center of the retaining stringer to get the 
tank out. It will be a tight squeeze, and you will need to remove many thing: 
radial drive, steering idlers(which may look good until you pull them), 
alternator, … I added a G10 L-bracket to sure-up the stringer, similar to 
added bracket on Stella Blue.  I was also inspired to Wally to improve the 
limber holes. 

Wally site was a great resource.  It is no longer online, but I have a copy and 
can send you pdfs of the tank work if you want.

Paul

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 20, 2020, at 12:37 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 11:23:12 -0500
> From: ssjohnson mailto:ssjohn...@aol.com>>
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Allwhen tensioning the steering cable.? ?It looks like the tank is 
> sitting in a pool of dieselI an bummed.? ?It is the original aluminum 
> tank, but the boat has only been in fresh water - Lake Michigan - so I had 
> though I was safe from corrosion.? Access to the tank is very limitedthe 
> engine and a retaining stringer would probably need to be cut outat least 
> that is what Wally on Stella Blue did.? I cannot think of other 
> optionsand am open to ideas/suggestions.? Cannot launch it as 
> is...Spencer Johnson?84 LF38 "Alegria" #165Waukegan, IL / Racine, WI
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
>   
> >

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Re: Stus-List Spilled Epoxy

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Doug,

Isopropyl alcohol is what many people use to clean epoxy resin,but alcohol is 
an effective thinner and not an ideal remover.  Try cleaning an epoxy brush 
with alcohol and you will see that it will still remain sticky.

On the other hand, regular old white vinegar will break down epoxy resin even 
if mixed with hardener. I have used vinegar to clean spilled resin, tools, 
hands(when gloves fail), head hair(don’t ask), my very last syringe, and even a 
brush as needed in a pinch.   So baring any salad jokes, using vinegar may work 
for you.  

Paul 

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 11, 2020, at 8:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 16:41:33 -0700
> From: Doug Mountjoy mailto:svrebeccal...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Spilled Epoxy
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I need help. I spilled epoxy resin on my brand new upholstery, and it went
> unnoticed for several days, so it has soaked into the new foam also. The
> area is about 6 sq inches. My question is what do I use to remove the resin
> with out damaging the foam?
> I am not to worried about the fabric as I sewed it myself and have plenty
> left over.
> Thanks in advance
> Doug
> 
> -- 
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> sv Rebecca Leah
> C LandFall 39

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Re: Stus-List Sliding Hatch Leaks //was CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Bob,

I would have leaks around the flat area and under around the companionway teak 
frame.  

Paul


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 8:36 AM, Robert Boyer  wrote:
> 
> Paul:
> 
> Where did you previous leak show up?  I have one that shows up on the flat 
> surface just above the companionway drawer unit.
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
> ICW in between)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> 
>> On Apr 14, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I had a constant problem with a companionway hatch leaking.   Over the 
>> years, I would track down, fix, and find new leaks.  The leak varied on rate 
>> or duration of rain, or wind directions and strength.Inspired by Dennis' 
>> canvas companionway hatch cover on Touche, I made my own and have not had a 
>> companionway leak since.  It was a good little learning project which has 
>> turned into a huge success.  
>> 
>> Here is the link to my blog page:
>> https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2019/01/fabricating-companionway-canvas-cover.html
>>  
>> <https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2019/01/fabricating-companionway-canvas-cover.html>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C Landfall 38 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/>
>> 
>>> On Apr 14, 2020, at 9:59 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>>> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 19:43:16 +
>>> From: Rob Ball mailto:r...@edsonintl.com>>
>>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50
>>> Message-ID: >> <mailto:f1feebcd-6f31-4ad2-8032-3d1b70dee...@edsonintl.com>>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>> 
>>> I have had the same sliding hatch leaks. Those ?tracks? indeed hold water 
>>> in that cavity outboard. If they are gone, the water can overflow that much 
>>> easier. 
>>> I actually added height to the sliding tracks with a strip of wood. 
>>> Also my boat was floating bow down so that cavity forward of the hatch 
>>> opening collected water but wouldn?t drain aft into the cockpit. I moved my 
>>> anchor and chain out of the anchor locker to under the cockpit to change 
>>> the fore-and-aft trim to help. 
>>> Rob Ball.  C 34
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 

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Stus-List Sliding Hatch Leaks //was CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I had a constant problem with a companionway hatch leaking.   Over the years, I 
would track down, fix, and find new leaks.  The leak varied on rate or duration 
of rain, or wind directions and strength.Inspired by Dennis' canvas 
companionway hatch cover on Touche, I made my own and have not had a 
companionway leak since.  It was a good little learning project which has 
turned into a huge success.  

Here is the link to my blog page:
https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2019/01/fabricating-companionway-canvas-cover.html

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 14, 2020, at 9:59 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2020 19:43:16 +
> From: Rob Ball mailto:r...@edsonintl.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I have had the same sliding hatch leaks. Those ?tracks? indeed hold water in 
> that cavity outboard. If they are gone, the water can overflow that much 
> easier. 
> I actually added height to the sliding tracks with a strip of wood. 
> Also my boat was floating bow down so that cavity forward of the hatch 
> opening collected water but wouldn?t drain aft into the cockpit. I moved my 
> anchor and chain out of the anchor locker to under the cockpit to change the 
> fore-and-aft trim to help. 
> Rob Ball.  C 34

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Re: Stus-List Battery Amp Hours?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Edd,

Amp-Hour capacity is a moving target.  For lead acid batteries, it depends on 
the amp draw.  This is because the battery internal Resistant consumes power at 
a rate squared to the current draw (I^2 R power lost).It is common to rate 
deep cycle batteries at a 5 amp draw.   

You could run your own 5 amp test with simple volt and amp meters and get a 
reasonable idea of the battery capacity.   Start off with a full charged 
battery and turn on loads until you get about 5 amps.  Measure how long it 
takes until the battery voltage gets to 12.0V (which is the 50% capacity 
voltage).   Take your time in hours multiply by your current draw  and then 
multiply by 2.   Do not run a lead acid battery below 12V.Of course, there 
are much better ways to measure capacity.  

A simple $15 watt meter works well too. I have one of these from Amazon 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GZXWH7E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8=1
 
.
I use Anderson power pole connectors which allows me to insert this meter 
virtually anywhere.  For example, I have used it measure the amp-hrs used by my 
refrigerator (25 amp-hrs/day in July) and more recently to measure the amp-hrs 
used by my SSB.  Power pole connectors are great. Look them up if you are not 
familiar with them.  

I have also heard great reviews on this $40 battery meter.   It does not have 
Bluetooth and a phone app that the $200+ meters have, but the DIY off grid 
solar folks love it and swear by its accuracy.   This meter is a true charge 
discharge meter whereas other cheap meters I seen go only one way.  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTKYFTG/?coliid=I28MK0USN5TE67=4DEXPPL436LK=1_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it#customerReviews
 


I’m a big fan of quality item like Victron products but I don’t shy away form 
affordable solutions too.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 27, 2020, at 6:36 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Hope everyone had a great New Years. 
> 
> So when you buy a battery, it?s pretty clear from the label what it?s Amp 
> Hour rating is ? so how does one actually verify that information? Is there 
> any way to test your battery?s actual Amp Hours when they are either new or 
> used for some time (but fully charged)??
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd

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Re: Stus-List Re core my deck - mat with epoxy yes but

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Yes, one can use epoxy with fiberglass mat as long as the mat is of the 
stitched type as opposed to the more common glued binder.  The binding glue is 
the problem with epoxy as the fiberglass strand in mat wets out with epoxy, but 
the binder that holding things together does not dissolve. I recall reading 
this first on Wally’s site and later confirmed it when I purchased some 
stitched mat.   Here a link I just googled:  
https://www.skaps.com/en/stitched-chopped-strand-mat.html

I agree with the “go metric” but let me add to it a “go medical”.   For mixing 
small quantities (which is the majority of the time), I found using medical 
syringes work great.  They are cheap (about 10¢ each purchased in bulk), so you 
can freely toss them out, but they can also be reused (I keep a 1ml & 3ml for 
hardener and a 5ml and 10ml for resin).   I also keep a bunch of 1ml, 5ml, and 
10ml syringes in my resin bucket.  I have mixed as little as 3ml of epoxy.  It 
is a great way not only to precisely mix but also reduce excess waste. That 
said, I always keep a some left-over to verify the cure.   


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 3, 2020, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2020 08:50:40 -0600
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re core my deck - resin vs epoxy
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Not using epoxy with matte is also more desirable if you're finishing with
> gelcoat.  Not sure how some of the newer epoxies that cure without an amine
> blush would work with matte.  I haven't tried them.
> 
> Vinylester resin is sometimes intimidating to DIYers because of the mix
> ratios.  The West System proportional pumps make it so easy most of us just
> go for the epoxy.
> 
> One thing I learned early on about polyester, vinylester and gelcoat
> applications was to "go metric".  The suggested MEKP addition is 1-2% by
> weight.  I used a small digital kitchen scale whenever I mixed them.
> However measuring by volume is usually close enough.  Using mix cups and
> measuring cups labeled with mls (milliliters) will work.  You'll need some
> of the small 30 ml measuring cups (medicine cups) for the MEKP.  You won't
> get an accurate result if you're trying to measure 2-4 mls in a 500 ml
> cup.
> 
> Whereas epoxy has arguably better bonding, vinylester resin is a lot less
> expensive and has about the same strength.  Additionally, you avoid having
> to buy the West System proportional pumps.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List delrin washer

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I am always cautious of purchasing materials from Ebay.

From McMaster-Carr you know that you are getting quality material, and for a 
little extra one can get the “good stuff”: Ultra-Wear-Resistant PTFE-Filled 
Delrin.  From the  McMaster-Carr site, “The addition of PTFE provides a more 
slippery, wear-resistant surface than standard Delrin®”.   


John, if you want to send me your address off list, I’ll mail you some of my 
left over material(good stuff).  I don’t want any thing in return(not even 
mailing costs), but if it works out and you are happy with your washer, just 
send in a few StuBucks.   

Yours very truly,

Paul
-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 21, 2019, at 6:41 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 22:03:16 -0600
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List delrin washer
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Last time I did one I got a Delrin disc from mcmaster and took it to a
> local plastics machine shop.
> 
> However, take a look at this:
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSTOM-DELRIN-ACETAL-Plastic-WASHERS-SPACERS-made-to-your-QUANTITY-SPECS/192495207830?hash=item2cd19bc596:g:1J8AAOSwdVFaxsHK
>  
> 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List delrin washer

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I second McMaster-Carr.For about $10, one can get enough high quality 
Delrin to make a plethora of washers (aka thrust bearing bushings).

No need for any fancy fabrication.  Simple trace out the washer and cut it out 
with a coping saw.   I used a jig saw and then cleaned up the edges with
a Dremel sanding drum.  Since the flat planar surface is the important surface, 
cleaning up the cut edge is only for cosmetic reasons.   From
Sharpie to finished product should take less than 5 minutes.


Have a look at the section on “thrust Bearing Bushing” on my blog for steering 
and rudder work.  I have a picture of this process and a short description.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2014/12/rudder-and-steering.html 





> On Nov 21, 2019, at 6:41 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 21:34:16 -0500
> From: bwhitmore mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List delrin washer
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> McMaster Carr and use hole saws on a sheet?Just an idea...Sent from my 
> Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

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Re: Stus-List Rudder lubrication Landfall 38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Fred,

I had no problem regarding the upper collar and set screws, but I had a HUGE 
problem removing the steering radial drive from the rudder shaft.  

The four bolts holding the radial drive to the shaft were completely galled 
together.   Even though I had plenty of work space, as I had the engine and 
fuel tank removed, I could not break the bolts free.   I tried a combination of 
heat, PB Blaster, Kroil (better than PB Blaster), time, and a huge breaker bar. 
   Nada.  I then used a Dremel to cut the bolt heads off.  But even with the 
bolts heads removed, the radial would not separate.   I ended up running a 
sawzall blade from the outside edge along the radial separation cutting the 
bolts at the separation junction.  Success!  This would not have been doable 
with the fuel tank in place.I was able to restore the old radial drive by 
drilling out the old stainless steel bolts.  During the reinstallation, I used 
316 SS bolts (McMaster-Carr) with locking nuts and washers and PLENTY of 
Tef-Gel.   

Hopefully, your radial drive bolts were previously installed using some type of 
grease or Tef-Gel so that you don’t have the same galling problem.   But If you 
run into a similar problem, before considering to remove the fuel tank, I would 
spin the rudder such that you could drill the old bolts from the threaded end 
(opposite bolt head) of the radial drive. Since the old old bolts don’t go all 
the way through, the threaded hole would provide a guide.  It should be 
possible to do this with a good hand drill, several good bits of different 
sizes, and a good oil like Kroil.  The key to drilling out stainless bolts is 
to drill very slowly. 

Here is a link to the write up of my past rudder work.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2014/12/rudder-and-steering.html


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 6, 2019, at 7:39 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:00:27 -1000
> From: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
> To: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder lubrication Landfall 38
> Message-ID: <56e8004f-4615-451e-bf53-1a303308e...@postaudio.net 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Simon ? did you have any issues getting the Allen set screws loose on the 
> upper collar, and getting it off?  I?m facing dropping the rudder this 
> winter, and would appreciate any guidance on this.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List Compass

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Yikes!  As a physicist, I just have to cry out and say that this statement is 
wrong. 

Yes, water is unique in that it expands as it changes phase from liquid to 
solid.  
But the expansion occurs because of the laws of thermodynamics not despite it. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 4, 2019, at 9:35 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Remember that water is defies the
> natural laws of thermodynamics in that it gets progressively less dense as
> its temperature departs from 4?C.  Most substances (oil) actually shrink as
> they get colder.

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Stus-List windlass and chain without a snubber, good way to lose a boat

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Anyone who uses a windlass and chain without a snubber should watch this video. 
 Note in the video that there is a statement pointing the blame on ferry boat 
wake rather than on the owner failure to use of a snubber by saying "very very 
few people actually use a snubber”.   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vdaxrGfT1M


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Smelly head can be a happy head

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I would start simple.  What you describe (i.e. the back pressure and recurring 
stink) sound like one but possible two problems.  I would first check the 
holding tank vent line.  A blocked vent line will lead to back pressure in the 
holding tank and little to no oxygen diffusing into the holding tank to promote 
aerobic decomposition.  Without oxygen, the smelly anaerobic bacteria take 
over.   Sea water stink is another problem caused by anaerobic decay of organic 
matter in sea water and while it has nothing to do with fecal matter, it can 
smell just as horrible.  The later problem is more notable in the summer 
months, but is easy to fix by teeing the head inlet to the sink drain.  When 
the seacock is open the sink drains and the head inlet uses sea water to flush. 
 When you leave the boat for an extended period, close the sink seacock (a good 
think to do) and run some fresh water into the sink, pumping the head to flush 
the fresh water through the inlet line.  It is amazing how much of an impact 
this has.As for the tank, some suggest adding a large vent hose, but one 
can simple add an active ventilation system rather cheaply (or install the 
equivalent but costly Sweet Tank system from Groco).

Here are links to my write ups on removing sea water stink and on installing a 
simple and effective active ventilation system using less that $25 worth of 
aquarium parts.

sea water stink
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2018/08/getting-fresh-water-into-head.html 


active ventilation
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/ActiveVentHoldingTank 




At the very least, check the vent line and seriously consider using a sink tee 
inlet.   Hoses do need to be replaced especially if your hoses were crap to 
begin with.  My old C 29 came with a bit of a funky smell which turned out to 
be coming from a section of cheap clear vinyl hose used to go from a Y-valve to 
the holding tank.  I good hose is expensive but worth it.  I prefer Trident 101 
hose.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 2, 2019, at 3:39 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 18:52:16 +
> From: Blair Clark mailto:blairalcl...@hotmail.com>>
> To: CNC List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Smelly head
> Message-ID:
>   
>   
> >
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I beg patience as i am hoping there is some quick troubleshooting hints that 
> can be provided.
> 
> Purchased a 1990 C 34 +. really really happy with boat and currently 
> working  through some smaller items to get her up to speed.
> 
> one of these involves the holding tank. My jabsco manual toilet exits through 
> a Y valve to sea or to  holding tank.  No external macerator system is in 
> place.. Even when Y valve set to sea I am having a smell go away and then 
> return to the head area.
> 
> Holding tank was pumped before transport after purchase and appears close to 
> empty.
> 
> Steps to date:
> 
> 1) Had a group out on the boat
> 2) next day head ines appeared blocked as there was back pressure on handle
> 3) removed lines got shop vacuum cleared lines and flushed with vinegar and 
> water
> 4 thought everything would be good
> 5) Noticed smell in head
> 2) noticed back flow of liquid into bowl
> 3) again fought with stiff lines and replaced joker valve
> 3) back flow and  Smell went away
> 4) a few days later after not using boat the smell came back but not from 
> toilet bowl
> 5) noticed that when I opened door under vanity sink bowl in the space that 
> houses the holding tank that the smell was more extreme
> 6) thought of taking tank out to inspect during winter but have no idea how 
> to access it to do so.
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to troubleshoot tsmell, holding tank or 
> lines and or remove tank?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Blair
> C 34+

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Re: Stus-List Boat Projects info?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Yep, Wally is my hero.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 30, 2019, at 2:51 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 11:16:25 -0700
> From: Lee Youngblood  >
> To: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Boat Projects info?
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I really appreciate how Paul has documented his S/V Johanna Rose projects and 
> sent his site link, http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
>   > to a friend. I wanted to send Wally?s 
> Stella Blue site link too, but it may have disappeared.  Anyone seen Wally, 
> last in Mexico somewhere or know the status of his site?
> 
> His site should have been archived on the C site and Paul should get a 
> Wally award!
> 
> Their info and support have helped so many on this list.
> 
> Thanks all, Lee

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Re: Stus-List cabin door replacement

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Dave,

I have replaced all 3 doors on my LF38.  There are companies which will custom 
make teak panel doors but the quotes I received were all over a thousand 
dollars per door.

Since you are in no rush, keep an eye out on eBay.  I came across a deal for 
new teak doors which I though was too good to be true.  I purchased one, and 
when it arrived, I rushed to purchase 2 more door.  They were not exact fits, 
and I had to narrow them and cut the rounded top corners, but they turned out 
great (see link).  I found out the company East Teak located in Donalds, SC 
made the doors.  You might try to give them a call and see if they have 
something sitting around that they would be pleased to sell.

Here is the link to my write up describing the new cabin teak door installation.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewDoors 



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 29, 2019, at 9:51 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 21:47:03 -0400
> From: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  >
> Subject: Stus-List cabin door replacement
> Message-ID: <93aa5636-4319-4b73-8f05-85b76b9a3...@gmail.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> A few weeks ago, in a race, one of my crew was thrown into the forward cabin 
> door which shattered into many pieces.  With only two of us on the boat it is 
> not needed at all, so I am not too worried, I am curious what others think 
> about the utility of a front cabin door.  We have never used it (closed it).  
> If we decide to replace it, does anyone have suggestions on where to start?  
> Does someone sell doors or are they all custom?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I agree, this sounds like a large voltage spike.  As noted, a direct lightning 
strike (and even an EMP from close strike) can wreak havoc on electronic 
without either being turned on or blowing the fuse.   Since, there was no 
mention of weather, I agree with those suggesting an alternator spike.  

It is possible to be an intermittent fault within the alternator, but given the 
marine environment, it’s more likely a connection problem, either positive or 
negative.   Don’t over look a bad negative connection.   An alternator can have 
a good ground connection but have a bad negative terminal connection.  This is 
why companies like Balmar recommend a dedicated negative cable, same size as 
the positive cable, connecting the alternator to the negative terminal.   

That said, I knew of a person who tried to make things better by installing a 
dedicated negative cable. Things worked well for a long time until he upgraded 
his alternator to a high end brand.   He was really pissed when he found out 
that his new system would only charge his house battery and not his start 
battery.  He originally had a working system, and the thought was that the new 
alternator somehow messed with his battery isolator by damaging it or just 
keeping it from working.  The problem turned out to be a bad connection between 
the negative terminals of the house and start batteries (maybe they got 
disconnected and forgotten).  The new alternator had an isolated ground whereas 
the old one did not.  The old alternator system worked because the two 
batteries' negative terminals were connected through the dedicated negative 
cable to alternator to engine to start battery negative.  With the new isolated 
alternator, the alternator negative was only connected to the house negative 
terminal.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 27, 2019, at 8:11 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2019 10:08:18 +0300
> From: Matti Airas mailto:mai...@iki.fi>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'd check the battery and alternator connections carefully. And the main
> switches, too. If the batteries get disconnected while the motor is on, the
> alternator will create a load dump that can be even over 100V for a
> fraction of a second. In principle, automotive and marine electronics
> should be protected from that but you never know. I'm only speculating, but
> if that was the reason, maybe the voltage spike was short enough that the
> fuses didn't have time to heat up?
> 
> Google for "load dump" if you want to learn more.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Matti Airas
> C 36 "Hurma"
> Helsinki, Finland

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Re: Stus-List Flooded Batteries

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Another issue regarding flooded batteries is the orientation.  

While not important in most applications, on a sailing boat flooded batteries 
should be mounted along the beam (port to starboard) rather than oriented along 
the centerline.  


Mainsail at pbase.com  has a nice discussion of this issue:  
https://pbase.com/mainecruising/flooded_battery_orientation


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 24, 2019, at 12:27 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2019 16:27:12 +
> From: "Della Barba, Joe"  >
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Flooded Batteries
> Message-ID:
>   
>   
> >
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> From what I read the life cycle cost of golf cart batteries is lower when you 
> use them hard and discharge past 50%. Sure it reduces the life of them, but 
> you get a lot more AH per $ in the end. The golf cart drivers surely could 
> not care less about stopping at 50%!
> Joe
> Coquina
> Ps ? remember wet cells need equalizing every now and then. Gels do NOT and 
> AGMs sort of do.
> 

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Re: Stus-List Flooded Batteries

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

While I have been looking into LiFe batteries, I still think Trojan T105 
provide the best bang for the buck.  Cost have come down a little for lithium 
batteries, and with industry leaders like Trojan now selling these 
batteries(already at better $/AH), I’m expecting reasonable price drops in the 
coming years.

For example, a pair of T105 provides 115 usable AH (50% of 230AH @ 12V) for 
total price of $280.The Trojan Trillium TR 12.8 110 provides 100 useable  
AH (90% of 110AH @ 12V) for a price just over $1,000.   If I had to replace my 
house bank today, I would go with 4 Trojan T105.  Worst case they would last 
4-5yrs but likely longer.   In 5 years, one should not be surprised to see 
lithium prices drop by more than 25% (i.e. a cost saving of about $550 or the 
cost of the 4 Trojans).

I know folks who highly recommend the Sam’s Club GC2 Duracell batteries.  While 
I’m a fan of the Trojan quality, at $90/battery or $360 for 215 usable AH (50% 
of 430 AH), the Sam’s Club option is worth looking at especially if one is 
considering going with LiFe batteries later rather than sooner.  To be fair, if 
I was full time cruising, I would weigh the sooner rather than the later.

just my two bits,
Paul
-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 23, 2019, at 8:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> On 9/22/2019 10:28 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> Anyone still use flooded batteries.  Looking to replace 3 weak batteries
>> that are causing engine startng issues.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Are the AGM or Gel batteries worth the $$ s.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Peter Cowenhoven
>> 
>> Branford CT
>> 
>> Landfall 35

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Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- POWER DRAW

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Yikes!25 amps seems excessive.   My 16,500BTU uses less than 15 Amps as it 
does not trip a 15 Amp Blue Sea breaker.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 19, 2019, at 10:54 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- Raw
>   Water Supply
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Josh,
> 
> The quote I?m getting is for a 16,500BTU unit, which I?m told will draw close 
> to 25 amp when fully working. The installer claims, once installed, the main 
> cabin will be comfortable and the aft cabin will be VERY cold. I didn?t 
> consider under the v-berth as there?s a lot of storage that I use down there 
> and, as far as I can tell, venting the other cabins will be a challenge. 
> 
> As for under the steps, I think getting AC-power there would be a challenge 
> and I have concerns, though probably unwarranted, about hoses and wiring 
> interfering with engine access. I?d be interested in seeing a diagram as to 
> how you ran your lines. 
> 
> The head uses a sea-water intake, so I suppose I could tee off of there, but 
> that?s quite a long run, is it not? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  >

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Re: Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- Raw Water Supply

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

A better solution would  be to tee off the head intake to the head sink drain 
seacock.  This way you can have a dedicated seacock for the AC water inlet.  

And as a bonus, you will be able to close off the head seacock when you leave, 
run fresh water in the sink, and flush the fresh water through the head inlet 
line.  This will eliminate much of any head stink (which many folks think is 
due to the holding tank, but is in fact seawater anaerobic decay).

In any event, use a big strainer with a good basket.  I use a Groco ARG-750 
with a Monel basket (Monel metal is better than Stainless 316 for fast flowing 
water, but it costs more).

I got my strainer from Flagship Marine when I purchased their FM16R 16,500 BTU 
AC unit.  I liked the Groco strainer so much that I replace my engine strainer 
with the same unit and also purchased it from Flagship Marine as they had the 
best price(~$100).   

link to my blog on removing seawater stink via the head tee off:
 http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2018/08/getting-fresh-water-into-head.html 


link to my blog on AC installation:
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/AirConWork 
 



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 19, 2019, at 10:22 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2019 09:57:44 -0400
> From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  >
> Subject: Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions -- Raw
>   Water Supply
> Message-ID: <46794590-6a0b-4b2c-994d-91031a295...@schillay.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Yesterday, I met with an AC installer on the Enterprise to cool off the main 
> and aft cabin, as well as fight off mold and mildew (as I understand it, the 
> expectation of growth of mold and mildew in this area is far more reliable 
> than, say, David Risch actually attending a C Rendezvous). 
> 
> The plan is to sacrifice some of the aft-cabin hanging locker. 
> 
> Until I haul the boat again, which I don?t plan to do for another four years 
> or so, I don?t have a dedicated through-hull. I?ve heard it?s not a good idea 
> to tee off of the engine intake, but there is the galley sink drain nearby. 
> Any issues with tee-ing off of that one? Obviously, I?d need to refrain from 
> dumping chemicals into the sink while the AC is running so as those chemicals 
> don?t go through the AC. Anyone know of any issues with that plan?
> 
> Also, I?m a little perplexed as to why tee-ing off the engine intake is so 
> bad. The AC is 110V AC-powered, so it?s not like I?m going to have the engine 
> running and the AC going at the same time? Or can I with my 2000-Watt 
> inverter and high-capacity alternator? 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  >
> 

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Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,

Plastic welding is the way to go.  I tried various ways to repair tanks, but my 
welded repairs (I fixed 3 tanks now by welding) have had no problems.  Plastic 
welding is rather easy to do.  The key is getting good plastic welding rods.   
I normally use a hot air welder, but if you are very careful, you can use make 
due with a propane torch.  Though I highly recommend borrowing or buying a 
welder.  Harbor Freight sells a reasonable welder for about $60, and since they 
always have 20-25% off coupons, it would cost about $45.

Small leaks are easy to fix.  If you have a more serious repair, like a long 
crack due to poor structural support, then repair and split it with some 316 
stainless mesh. 

I purchased a package of 1/8" LDPE welding rods from Grainger. As I recall, it 
was 50 rods for $15.   I also purchased 316 mesh from Grainger.

I have details on my blog. Below is the link.  Skip down to the section on 
plastic welding.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/WaterTankRepair


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 7, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 22:31:13 +
> From: kelly petew mailto:kellype...@msn.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Water Tank Woes [again] - Welding Question
> Message-ID:
>   
>   
> >
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> My water tank is leaking again. I want to attempt a weld to repair it.
> 
> It is a Kracor polypropylene tank, but the labeling details have faded over 
> time, and no longer legible.  I don't know what kind of polypropylene was 
> used to construct the tank.
> So, the question is, do I use hi-density OR lo-density polypropylene?  Or, 
> does it matter?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> C 30-2
> Deltaville, Va.

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Re: Stus-List Dow Corning 795

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Unless ordering Dow 795 outside of the USA is a problem, I don’t see why one 
would consider an alternative.  

It is a great product which costs under $10 per cartridge via McMaster.com 
.   

Besides using Dow 795 for fixed ports, there are other uses too.  I have used 
Dow 795 to bed new lenses in two Atkins and Hoyle hatches.  Dow 795 also 
adheres the EDPM gasket seal to the hatch frames and lenses as well as the A 
recommended Silaprene (which is a real pain to obtain).   I have also used the 
white Dow 795 to bed and seal a new stainless steel stemhead.   



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> On Jul 29, 2019, at 11:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 23:56:45 -0300
> From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  >
> To: robert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dow Corning 795
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> 
> I was the one that used Pecora 895 to replace the plexi windows on my CS 
> 30.? I bought it locally in Halifax NS (Arrow construction in Burnside) 
> plus used the 3M VHB tape with no screws/bolts or frames
> 
> That was spring 2017 - and my windows are still in great shape - no 
> cracks in the sealant and no signs of leaks.
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
> 
> On 2019-07-26 7:05 p.m., robert via CnC-List wrote:
>> Bill,
>> ?I have not used 795 but someone here on the list found Pecora 895 
>> which is supposed to be a very similar product.
>> 
>> I did a window job over 10 years ago and used Sika 295 UV with the 
>> Sika Primer.windows without frames or screws/bolts are still in 
>> tack and water tight.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> On 2019-07-26 6:23 p.m., Bill Dakin via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Has anyone use an alternative to 795 for the plexiglass seal?
>>> 
>>> Bill Dakin
>>> 
>>> ___

___

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Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I have been very happy with the Selden Rodkicker 20 that came with my LF38.  
The Rodkicker has been around for a while, and I have no idea when mine was 
installed.  Early on, the gas shock on mine failed (but I think it was my 
fault), and I considered replacing with an alternative as the gas shock 
replacement kit was going for ~$300 from Selden.I was able to find the 
exact replacement gas shock at McMaster-Carr for  $86.The repaired 
Rodkicker has been working fine for many years now.

If your rigid system has a failed gas shock, then check out  McMaster-Carr for 
a replacement.  Below is a link to my write up discussion the replacement gas 
shock.As for replacing with a new system, the Rodkicker costs about $200 
more than a Garhauer, and I’m not sure of an advantage, so for new I would 
consider a Garhauer.  They have a reputation of good quality and reasonable 
prices.  


For those interested in the gas shock repair:  
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/RodKicker



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jun 25, 2019, at 11:59 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 11:29:37 -0400
> From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Listers,
> 
> My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I?m looking to do a replacement. 
> Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40? range that won?t 
> break the bank? 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  >
> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List crack in stem fitting

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Dave,

I replaced the stemhead/bow roller on my Landfall 38 last year.   As part of 
the standing rigging, 
I felt it was best to replace rather than attempt repair.   I designed a 
stainless steel replacement and 
was fortunate to have a friend help with the fabrication.

It might be worth coming up with your own stainless steel design and then 
obtain 
quotes from places like White Water Marine or even Garhauer Marine.

At the very least, you could send them photos of the current stemhead and see 
what they say 
about having a replacement made up in stainless.


Here is a link to the write up on my stemhead replacement.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2018/06/stemhead-replacement.html 




-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jun 3, 2019, at 6:12 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 16:53:45 -0400
> From: "David E Spiro" mailto:da...@spiro.nyc>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List crack in stem fitting
> Message-ID: <009f01d51a4e$709657d0$51c30770$@spiro.nyc 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> My C (tall rig deep keel) has a crack in the stem fitting just in front
> of the attachment point for the jib roller-furler.  The crack is from midway
> port all the way through the starboard edge, and goes under the starboard
> chock.  
> 
> 
> 
> I hit a green buoy in the dark, just after getting distracted by my
> autopilot and plotter failing.  The collision point was at the bottom of the
> chain plate.  It did some damage to the fiberglass on the bow, and I assume
> the stem fitting cracked from the impact.  I was blissfully ignorant of the
> crack for the next couple days sailing up to NYC.
> 
> 
> 
> I've received conflicting advice on repairs.  Some people say I should have
> the whole piece fabricated.  Others say that a weld (perhaps reinforced with
> another piece of metal or a carbon fiber sheet) would actually be stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have experience with this?   And does anyone have recommendations on
> where to get a replacement fabricated, if I go that route?  The boat is
> currently at our mooring at City Island Yacht Club in the western Long
> Island Sound, and someone in the NY/CT region would be great.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> David E Spiro
> 
> SV Hidden Hand

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Galvanic Isolators

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

und rod at 
> the transformer and/or panel on shore. If some defective appliance puts AC 
> voltage on any part accessible by a human you now have a hot wire in one hand 
> and any part of the boats DC ground system is the other half of the circuit. 
> This can be a deadly hazard on a boat depending on how good the green wire 
> system on the boat and marina is and even if it is good you still can get a 
> considerable charge through you. The interconnected grounds prevent this from 
> happening.
> The ONLY way I could see trying to make an isolated AC system besides for an 
> isolation transformer, which is actually a great idea but big and heavy, is 
> if the BOAT had an ELCI installed. You cannot count on every marina having 
> one at their end.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
> 
> 

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Dreuge via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, June 02, 2019 4:07 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Dreuge mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Galvanic Isolators
> 
> 
> 
> I would not spend much money on a galvanic isolator (GI).The main cause 
> of the galvanic corrosion is a result of connecting the AC and DC grounds.  
> Check if you have these grounds connected. Most older and smaller vessels 
> don?t have the grounds connected and don?t have galvanic corrosion problem.  
> Also, the industry is moving away from this requirement.
> 
> One is better off investing in a whole vessel GFCI breaker(also called an 
> ELCI Main Circuit Breaker).   These cost much less than a typical fail-safe 
> GI and provide galvanic isolation from stray AC currents by disconnecting the 
> power, and more importantly they provide much better ground fault protection 
> than connecting AC & DC grounds.
> 
> If one still prefers bonding the AC & DC grounds then I would recommend the 
> Yandina GI or better, a DYI GI,  and connect the GI between the AC to DC 
> connection to provide a fail-safe connection.
> 
> I have a write up on my blog about this and also how to make a DYI GI, but in 
> short, don?t waste money on an expensive GI, invest your money in an ELCI 
> breaker, individual GFCI circuit protectors, and a decent marine charger (not 
> a cheap HF/Walmart/Amazon brand )
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/GalvanicIsolator 
> <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/GalvanicIsolator%3Chttps://protect2.fireeye.com/url?k=8c302211-d0a614f2-8c300b66-0cc47adc5fec-d02e08d2e81cb3ec=1=http%3A%2F%2Fsvjohannarose.blogspot.com%2Fsearch%2Flabel%2FGalvanicIsolator%3E>
> 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic Isolators

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I would not spend much money on a galvanic isolator (GI).The main cause of 
the galvanic corrosion is a result of connecting the AC and DC grounds.  Check 
if you have these grounds connected. Most older and smaller vessels don’t 
have the grounds connected and don’t have galvanic corrosion problem.  Also, 
the industry is moving away from this requirement.

One is better off investing in a whole vessel GFCI breaker(also called an ELCI 
Main Circuit Breaker).   These cost much less than a typical fail-safe GI and 
provide galvanic isolation from stray AC currents by disconnecting the power, 
and more importantly they provide much better ground fault protection than 
connecting AC & DC grounds.  

If one still prefers bonding the AC & DC grounds then I would recommend the 
Yandina GI or better, a DYI GI,  and connect the GI between the AC to DC 
connection to provide a fail-safe connection.

I have a write up on my blog about this and also how to make a DYI GI, but in 
short, don’t waste money on an expensive GI, invest your money in an ELCI 
breaker, individual GFCI circuit protectors, and a decent marine charger (not a 
cheap HF/Walmart/Amazon brand ) 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/GalvanicIsolator 




-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 



> On Jun 1, 2019, at 9:32 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>  wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> On May 31, 2019, at 3:47 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> >> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks to David for raising the issue of galvanic isolators.  
>> 
>> I have to admit, I don't have one on my boat, and I haven't worried about it 
>> very much as my zincs are lasting more than 7 months in a salt water 
>> environment in a small harbor surrounded by boats that are always plugged in 
>> to shore power.  As a result, I don't think I have much of a problem going 
>> on, if any. 
>> 
>> That said, the idea of having an isolator in place would make me feel better.
>> 
>> Have any of you tried the following isolator?   
>> 
>> http://yandina.com/GalvInfo.htm  
>> >
>> 
>> On my last boat, I had one of their battery combiners for about 15 years, 
>> and I found it to be (virtually) flawless.  When I did had one fail, they 
>> replaced it without blinking an eye, and they provide an unlimited warranty. 
>>  
>> 
>> The price is nice as well...
>> 
>> Thoughts?
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C 37/40+
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  
>> >

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic Isolators

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I would not spend much money on a galvanic isolator (GI).The main cause of 
the galvanic corrosion is a result of connecting the AC and DC grounds.  Check 
if you have these grounds connected. Most older and smaller vessels don’t 
have the grounds connected and don’t have galvanic corrosion problem.  Also, 
the industry is moving away from this requirement.

One is better off investing in a whole vessel GFCI breaker(also called an ELCI 
Main Circuit Breaker).   These cost much less than a typical fail-safe GI and 
provide galvanic isolation from stray AC currents by disconnecting the power, 
and more importantly they provide much better ground fault protection than 
connecting AC & DC grounds.  

If one still prefers bonding the AC & DC grounds then I would recommend the 
Yandina GI or better, a DYI GI,  and connect the GI between the AC to DC 
connection to provide a fail-safe connection.

I have a write up on my blog about this and also how to make a DYI GI, but in 
short, don’t waste money on an expensive GI, invest your money in an ELCI 
breaker, individual GFCI circuit protectors, and a decent marine charger (not a 
cheap HF/Walmart/Amazon brand ) 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/GalvanicIsolator 




-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



> On Jun 1, 2019, at 9:32 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> On May 31, 2019, at 3:47 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> >> wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks to David for raising the issue of galvanic isolators.  
>> 
>> I have to admit, I don't have one on my boat, and I haven't worried about it 
>> very much as my zincs are lasting more than 7 months in a salt water 
>> environment in a small harbor surrounded by boats that are always plugged in 
>> to shore power.  As a result, I don't think I have much of a problem going 
>> on, if any. 
>> 
>> That said, the idea of having an isolator in place would make me feel better.
>> 
>> Have any of you tried the following isolator?   
>> 
>> http://yandina.com/GalvInfo.htm  
>> >
>> 
>> On my last boat, I had one of their battery combiners for about 15 years, 
>> and I found it to be (virtually) flawless.  When I did had one fail, they 
>> replaced it without blinking an eye, and they provide an unlimited warranty. 
>>  
>> 
>> The price is nice as well...
>> 
>> Thoughts?
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C 37/40+
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  
>> >

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I have seen heads discharge loops vented with a small hose led to an external 
vent.  Some were with inline check valves but some without.   The later was 
more common for anti-siphon at the raw water to exhaust mixing below.   

I thought about added a hose to my head discharge loop if it became a problem.  
 The longer the little rubber valve work, the more likely I’ll replace it as 
Dennis has done. 

The only head odor problem I have had was due to stagnate seawater in the inlet 
to head.   I fixed this by teeing the head inlet to the head sink drain.  When 
I leave the boat for an extended period, I now close off the seacock, fill the 
sink with some fresh water, and pump it through the head.  No more stench.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 24, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 24 May 2019 09:08:21 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oft overlooked source of head odor
> Message-ID: <1920a42c-7848-4bbc-bb20-c9d5985fd...@gmail.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The anti-siphon valve on the vented loop is usually not routed anywhere. It 
> just sits on the top of the loop. 
> 
> It?s different from the tank vent. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> 

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Re: Stus-List Drawer hole trim

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I recently purchased 8 teak finger pulls at a site called bikesomewhere.com.   
These are made by Whitecap and come 2 in a pack in lengths of 5/8” or 1”.  I 
purchased 2 packages of each and received 25% off with free shipping via Google 
Express checkout.   Total cost delivered was $13.89.Most other online 
suppliers I came across wanted $10 just for the shipping.

I was really surprised that a bike site would have teak products.  Below is a 
link to all of their teak stuff. Some good prices, some not.

https://www.bikesomewhere.com/search-results?q=teak


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



> On May 8, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 7 May 2019 17:23:45 +
> From: David Risch mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>>
> To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Drawer hole trim
> Message-ID:
>   
>   
> >
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Anyone know of a source for the black plastic hole trim for our drawers?

___

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Re: Stus-List question LF38 steering

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I have been happy with SuperLube Synthetic grease.  Below is a quick link I 
found on Amazon.

I use Super Lube for many tasks.  In addition to lubricating the rudder, I use 
on winches (except the pawls), on O-rings, …, and some electrical terminals as 
it’s also a good dielectric grease.   

I even know of a guy who uses it for chapped lips (and swears by it).  While it 
is listed as a food grade lubricate, I have not gone that far yet!


https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-41160-Synthetic-Translucent/dp/B0083R1FME/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Super+Lube=1556301173=gateway=8-2
 





-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 26, 2019, at 11:18 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2019 09:15:09 -0400
> From: Camille Cloutier  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List question LF38 steering
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi!!
> 
> Thank you for the quick and precise answer! It is very appreciated!
> 
> Last question: what king of grease do you us in the grease cup? White
> grease?
> 
> Have a good day!
> 
> Camille
> 

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Re: Stus-List question LF38 steering

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Camille,

I originally had steering which was stiff and somewhat resistant  to turning.  
My problem turned out to be old dry crusted grease in the rudder tube.  After 
dropping the rudder, cleaning out the old, and replacing the rudder lubed with 
SuperLube, resulted in nice smooth steering.  I grease it via a cup about once 
a year.  All remains nice and well.

It sounds easy, but it was a challenge to remove the radial. The bolts holding 
the radial together in my case were galled/corroded in place.  

Take a look at by blog post:  
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2014/12/rudder-and-steering.html 



As for a grease cup, you likely do have one (or had one).  it should be on the 
aft starboard side of the rudder rube.   It is easy to access with the steering 
radial removed.  Regular access requires an arm contortion trick: open the deck 
access plate just aft of the rudder post, stick you arm down and twist it under 
the radial drive disk, then reach towards the rudder post.   It should be there.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
> 
>> On Apr 24, 2019, at 11:10 AM, Camille Cloutier via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> We just signed in the CnC-List mailing list and we would have a question
>> concerning our C boat Landfall 38. We live in Qu?bec and we are french
>> speaking so I'll try to express myself as good as I can :)
>> 
>> We find that the streering wheel is harder to turn then other C we have
>> tried. We have replace all the wires so we are sure that the problem
>> doesn't come from the pedestal. In the instruction manual, they talk about a
>> grease cup which we don't have. We don't have teflon washer around the
>> rudder shaft in the water either.
>> 
>> Does anyone have informations about how the whole rudder system is put
>> together so we can recondition it to have a smooth and easy steering wheel
>> ?
>> 
>> Thank you very much
>> 
>> Camille

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Stus-List Genoa sheets for Landfall 38

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I’m looking to replace old genoa sheets, and I forgot to measure the lengths of 
current sheets.  I recall a rule of thumb being that sheets should be 1.25 - 
1.5 times the boat length.  Any LF38 owners recall the lengths of their sheets?



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Dual purpose of windlass electrical wires?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I think you would be better off running a separate duplex wire back to the 
controller near the batteries.  It’s a long run, so the size of the wire will 
depend on the current.  

Let’s assume a 25 ft length of duplex wire, then that's 50 ft of wire both 
ways.  The tables for a 3% voltage drop recommends at least  6AWG for 15 amps.  
That’s good for about 250 Watts.  Since most panels produce 16-20 Volts output, 
you gain by having the controller near the battery (higher voltage means lower 
current through the wire resulting more watt capacity).  Having the controller 
up front would results in a 3% voltage drop of the regulated voltage making 
battery charging much less efficient.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 4, 2019, at 11:30 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2019 08:39:54 -0600 (MDT)
> From: DON JONSSON mailto:dbjons...@shaw.ca>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Dual purpose of windlass electrical wires?
> Message-ID: <66e2a230-81ff-4185-8ce1-8c7ef4614...@shaw.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Hi All
> 
> Sort of a weird question, but hopefully someone has some insight.
> 
> We have been struggling with where to put solar panels on our C 34.  We now 
> think that we will get a couple of flexible panels and leave them free, at 
> least for now.  The plan would be to put them out on the fore deck when at 
> anchor in the beautiful BC sunshine.  What we don't want is wires running all 
> over while they are sitting out.  So we thought a couple of plugs mounted in 
> the chain locker with the wires running back to the battery inside the cabin. 
>  That way when stopped we would place the solar panels in the most 
> appropriate spot on the fore deck with short wires running forward to the 
> plugs inside the anchor locker, and then long wires running inside out of 
> view to the batteries at the back of the boat.
> 
> So there are already a pair of very large cables running from the windlass to 
> the batteries.  Is there some way to leverage those cable for connecting the 
> solar panels.  Just inside the front of the Vberth is where the cables 
> connect to the windlass controller.  We could connect the controller for the 
> solar panels there which would then connect directly to the batteries, 
> through a breaker, and the ground bus bar via the existing cables.  Or 
> possibly put the controller back by the batteries?
> 
> Comments?
> 
> Thanks 
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C 34
> Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Help

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Bruce,

You can get some useful info from the NADA Guides.  For example, a 1980 C 
36/SL has a base average value of $28,900.  But this was without any options 
selected (i.e. canvas, electronics, …)


See the NADA website: https://www.nadaguides.com/Boats/Manufacturers


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 1, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2019 09:33:57 -0500
> From: Bruce Roland mailto:lostatsea1...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Help
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I am interested in finding out just a ball park figure on a complete
> restore, my 36 ft C was damaged  by Hurricane Michael,  and washed to
> shore. It sat on government property for about 3 and half months full of
> water.
> I know it might be difficult to give a figure on this but could you just
> give me something to work with please.
> Or a replacement figure.  The actual boat has been destroyed, but I do have
> pictures. I just trying to get a replacement cost.
> This was my home and now I'm left with nothing.
> Thank you for your time.
> Bruce Roland

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Re: Stus-List Autopilot tiller arm on LF38 *without* bolting

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Patrick,

As you can imagine, I thought about this a bit, and while I choose to use a 
radial rudder stop mount for my connections for several reasons.  But there are 
options one may consider which would utilize a traditional autopilot tiller 
arms.  Edson makes tiller arms in both Aluminum and Bronze.  To me, it makes no 
sense to opt for the Aluminum arm as I doubt it's structurally as strong as 
using the radial rudder stop mount.  A Bronze arm (or even a custom stainless) 
is a good choice.

* Edson sells a different radial drive which has a shorter height.  Replacing 
an existing with one of these would be costly but it could free up shaft space 
for the tiller arm.  One needs to check the specs for the shorter radials and 
see if that option is feasible. 

* Alternatively, one may consider flipping the existing radial drive upside 
down.  It would be a challenging to reinstall and adjust the cables, and who 
knows, it may actually make the reinstall easier.   The rudder stop can be 
installed either on top or below on a radial drive, so in principle that can be 
mounted back on top,  but since the radial plane would be higher than existing, 
one may need to go with smaller steering idler sheaves.   While I though about 
this, I never actually measured for a fit.  

* A third option, and one I thought of after the fact, is to have a tiller arm 
custom made so that it bolts onto the radial at the shaft using the radial 
shaft bolts.  One would need slightly longer bolts, but it would be very 
robust.  (inspired by the custom bracket mount for my rudder indicator).   

Finally, with regards to radial/mount failures, I have heard of one where 
someone drilled holes in the radial for installing a mounting bracket rather 
than using the rudder stop bracket.  The set up failed over time due to 
dissimilar metal corrosion.I think drilling the radial is a huge mistake. 
It makes it weaker and more prone to corrosion.   Edson has reported that over 
time the radial can corrode at the rudder stop due to the dissimilar metals. 
This has been a common cause of rudder stop failures. While Edson has 
redesigned the rudder stop, they contend that failure is due to steering system 
neglect and lack of system system inspection.  Yes, we should all inspect more. 
 I would like to add that improper installation likely added to the haste of 
deterioration.   (.i.e. some Tef-Gel and some DMD electrical insulation paper 
goes a long way)   





-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Mar 4, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2019 07:46:09 -0800
> From: Patrick Davin mailto:jda...@gmail.com>>
> To: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>>
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot tiller arm on LF38 *without* bolting
>   to quadrant?
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> That would be great if my worries are unfounded because it would save a lot
> of work. :)
> But I'm not so sure. Generally I like to defer to the advice of the
> manufacturer - they're the designers, the experts, the engineers, after
> all. Of course, I think Edson is being overly conservative to cover their
> butts. But it is true that losing steering could very well be catastrophic.
> 
> And of the boats that have installed direct to quadrant, I don't know what
> kind of conditions they've been tested in. It's possible they've never
> reached peak thrust.
> 
> Bob do you have any pictures of your autopilot install? I searched your
> blog but I think it's not on there (it's from before the blog).
> 
> -Patrick

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
> made to fit the original holes.
> 
> Whitewatermarine.com 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA 
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 

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Re: Stus-List washdown pumps: Johnson Aqua Jet 5.2 or Jabsco HotShot 5

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I just looked them up, and the Remco Aquajet 55 is identical to the Johnson 
Aqua Jet 5.2.  The Remco site, as you point out, say they are made in the USA.  
 The The SPXFlow/Johnson site does not list they are made.  I’m guessing that 
Johnson is rebranding the Remco’s  and adding on a strainer.




Thanks,

Paul 



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 1, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2019 11:29:13 -0500
> From: "Bill Coleman" mailto:colt...@verizon.net>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List washdown pumps: Jonson Aqua Jet 5.2 or Jabsco
>   HotShot 5
> Message-ID: <082601d4ba4b$44eaa950$cebffbf0$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> My buddy sez his Trawler friends like these,
> 
> http://www.remcoindustries.com/product-pages/aquajet/ 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone have any experience with these?  I am thinking about trying one out.
> 
> And made in USA !
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> C 39 Erie, PA

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Yes, I’m a PEX fan.  I replaced all of my fresh water lines with PEX.  For 
fittings, I used “Flair-It” fittings as recommended by Wally on his Stella Blue 
site.  These fittings provide a bullet-proof water tight compression fit seal, 
and they are easy to install: just push it in and screw it tight.  They can 
even easily be reused(as I can attest to).  But best of all, they are 
affordable (about $3 each) and readily available in a plethora of fitting 
types.  I purchased mine at a local Ace hardware.


I am about to install a saltwater wash down system, and I plan to use PEX and 
Flair-It to plumb access fitting at the bow, cockpit, and to a typical kitchen 
faucet sprayer at the galley sink.  I may even plumb a sprayer in the head 
since I have an extra sink-top hole not utilize.  



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 31, 2019, at 8:47 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2019 23:00:03 -0500
> From: "Rick Brass" mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...
> Message-ID: <003301d4b919$71ceb480$556c1d80$@earthlink.net 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I've done a couple of plumbing and landscaping projects using PEX tubing.
> Lowes and probably Home Depot sell a fitting for PEX tubing that uses small
> teeth where the fitting engages the tubing and requires no special tool. You
> simply push the fitting into the tube. I've not had any leaks I know of. I
> can't recall the brand name. 

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

John,

I put my original discussion and some photos online about replacing the Yanmar 
buzzer guts.


See link to my blog post:   
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2019/01/repairing-yanmar-3-way-engine-buzzer.html



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 14, 2019, at 9:17 AM, Dreuge  wrote:
> 
> John,
> 
> There is a simple way to replace the guts of the Yanmar buzzer alarm.  I 
> first fix mine and then fix a neighbors.   Ends up looking original, is 
> waterproof, and has worked fine for over nine years to date.I posted a 
> description some time back on the list, which I’ll dig up.  Total cost under 
> $30.
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/>
> 
>> On Jan 13, 2019, at 11:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2019 14:17:38 -0500
>> From: "John and Maryann Read" > <mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com>>
>> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer
>> Message-ID: <003f01d4ab74$a68c5e00$f3a51a00$@com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> Ours has given up the ghost (gee it's only 37 years old J).  Is a Hitachi WI
>> 1-05 dual purpose for low oil pressure and high temp.  5 pin connector.  4
>> pins are used so not quite sure how the wiring would work if went the Yanmar
>> 3GM engine = type B panel.  2 1/16"hole.  Issue is locating one of these -
>> with the caveat of a reasonable price.  Did the Google search.  Found one on
>> flea bay but $75 seems like a lot when can get a single purpose piezo buzzer
>> for about $15 and just need to change the wiring.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Any suggestions for sourcing or alternative strategy?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> John and Maryann
>> 
>> Legacy III
>> 
>> 1982 C 34
>> 
>> Noank, CT
> 

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

John,

There is a simple way to replace the guts of the Yanmar buzzer alarm.  I first 
fix mine and then fix a neighbors.   Ends up looking original, is waterproof, 
and has worked fine for over nine years to date.I posted a description some 
time back on the list, which I’ll dig up.  Total cost under $30.


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 13, 2019, at 11:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2019 14:17:38 -0500
> From: "John and Maryann Read"  >
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer
> Message-ID: <003f01d4ab74$a68c5e00$f3a51a00$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Ours has given up the ghost (gee it's only 37 years old J).  Is a Hitachi WI
> 1-05 dual purpose for low oil pressure and high temp.  5 pin connector.  4
> pins are used so not quite sure how the wiring would work if went the Yanmar
> 3GM engine = type B panel.  2 1/16"hole.  Issue is locating one of these -
> with the caveat of a reasonable price.  Did the Google search.  Found one on
> flea bay but $75 seems like a lot when can get a single purpose piezo buzzer
> for about $15 and just need to change the wiring.
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions for sourcing or alternative strategy?
> 
> 
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34
> 
> Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List hand held VHF with DSC

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I agree with Joel,

Unless the handheld VHF is the only VHF, then it is better to get a different 
MMSI.  

I recently obtained a second MMSI for my portable.  No vessel information was 
required, I did provide a vessel name — “Little Ray” for my dinghy but I think 
that was not even required.

A big advantage is that one can simultaneously use both: i.e. ping the location 
of the handheld VHF from the boat and have the location show up on the chart 
plotter.  Nice for cruising.And say one drops the handheld overboard, the 
position ping location will help one locate it (assuming the device is on or 
the person with it turns it on :-).

Another plus is that one can bring the handheld on another vessel.  





-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



> On Jan 11, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2019 11:55:37 -0500
> From: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List hand held VHF with DSC
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I got a separate MMSI from Boat US for the handheld.  It is associated with
> me, not my vessel. (at least that's my theory)
> 
> Joel

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Re: Stus-List Any Tampa Bay Listers

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Edd,

Here are a couple sources of information:


Southwinds Magazine a free source covering sailing & cruising for Fl and the SE.
https://southwindsmagazine.com 


FCYC: Florida Council of Yacht Clubs
http://www.floridacouncilofyachtclubs.com 

map: http://www.floridacouncilofyachtclubs.com/fcyc-map.html 




WFYRA
West Florida Yacht Racing Ass.
http://www.wfyra.org/ 













-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 6, 2018, at 10:43 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2018 10:42:21 -0500
> From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Any Tampa Bay Listers
> Message-ID: <712b304e-bae9-4d21-a3eb-2fa63c8ea...@schillay.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Anyone on the list located in the Tampa Bay area? 
> 
> I?d like to get an idea about the sailing, racing and cruising activity down 
> there.  
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  >
> 

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Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank Urban myths?

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I’m not in total disagreement, but the urban myth may be more of a Great White 
North myth. In that, when it gets cold out it stays cold until spring.  But 
otherwise, when it get cold at night and warms up in the day, it best to keep 
the tank either full or empty.   

The reason is that a metal tank with some liquid will dehumidify the air inside 
(and outside) the tank during the daytime when ambient air starts to warm 
relative to the night time lows.  Think about a tank half full after a cold 
night.  The cold fuel is a big heat sink and will keep the tank fuel and metal 
container much colder than the warming daytime air.  Warming air + cold metal 
surface = condensation, i.e. cold sweat.  A full tank has less condensing 
surface and less air inside.  An empty Aluminum tank will warm and cool with 
ambient air so there will be little if any condensation.  I guess one could 
close up the tank (i.e. close of breather line) to try to eliminate the 
reoccurring condensation, but that’s likely not as easy as it sounds (and end 
up being a bigger PITA than filling the tank).

With any luck, Global Warming will rid the Canadians of some urban myths….

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 25, 2018, at 4:12 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2018 19:41:45 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank
> Message-ID:
>   
>   
> >
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Consider not adding the fuel.
> 
> This is an urban myth that the condensation would add a lot of water to the 
> fuel. The water in the fuel tank comes usually from the leaking fill hose 
> cover. If you don?t believe it, do some calculations (;-).
> 
> Depending how much you motor, if you keep topping up the tank, you may end up 
> with a lot of old fuel in the tank.
> 
> Many marinas don?t allow the topping up, because if you do it now, the fuel 
> will expand in the spring and it would leak through the vent.
> 
> of course, your boat, your choice.
> 
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON

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Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

Like many have pointed out, the shaker siphon is great.   You only need to try 
it once to be convinced.  This is especially true filling up offshore.  As for 
water eliminating funnels, like a Mr Funnel, don’t use them at the boat, use 
them at the pump. That way you get the best of both.

I also recommend tossing out standard filler caps, new and old, that come with 
diesel cans.   These filler caps are not only a PITA to use, they are weak and 
will starting leaking sooner rather than later.I use EZ-Pour solid base 
caps.  A fuel jug will break or split a seam before it leaks from these caps.  
At about $4 a cap, there is no reason not purchase a few.  Here is a link below:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NB3UUDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8=1


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 25, 2018, at 3:33 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2018 15:32:28 -0400
> From: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Filling diesel tank
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I really like the idea of the siphon hose with the shaker pump on the end as 
> it is something small and simple that I can keep on the boat with the funnel 
> and should be very clean to operate.  I like using a funnel with a water 
> excluding filter, which eliminates some of the suggestions.  I have ordered 
> one of the Amazon variety of siphon hoses and will report back when I try it 
> out.  Thanks to all for the suggestions!   Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List inexpensive chartplotter

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Chris,

I use to think that what mattered was what one’s needs were.  Day and weekend 
sailing have different needs than offshore and long distance cruising.  I 
purchased my first C for $5k, and no way in hell would I justify spending 
$1,500 - $2,500 on a chart plotter.  I used a laptop, handheld GPS,  iPad, and 
finally ended up mainly using my iPhone and a cheap fish finder.

I currently have a decent chart plotter, and I love it.  I still keep the 
iPhone handy, in fact my chart plotter has WiFi and I use the iPhone Navionics 
app to simply sync Navionics maps and routes on the chart plotter.  The main 
benefits of a plotter is that they are environmentally robust and always 
active. Some may say I’ve had too much of the cool aid, as I have  AIS-VHF, 
wind, speed, depth, and autopilot all connected, but I enjoy all the features 
and more importantly enjoy not worrying about massive sheets of water from a 
bow wave soaking the cockpit.  At the end of the day, just rinse and repeat.

But while chart plotters were very expensive, as Fred points out, prices now 
are very reasonable. The low coast along with functionality and added features, 
 makes using a dedicated tablet no longer a cost advantage.  Tablets do make 
for good back ups or along with smart phone, make good "personal plotters”.   

When a plotters costs about as much as a monthly slip fee what’s the point in 
going cheaper.  Case in point,  check out these deals (link below) for a 9” 
Garmin echoMap CHIRP Mid-Band/ClearVu/SidVu and US BlueCharts for just $570!   
If that’s too much, check out the Raymarine a78 7” MFD Touchscreen with CHIRP 
DownVision™ and ClearPulse™ Digital Sonar for only $370. 

https://www.imarineusa.com/garmin010-01805-01.aspx
https://www.imarineusa.com/RaymarineE70202.aspx




-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Oct 19, 2018, at 8:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2018 12:13:27 + (UTC)
> From: Chris Graham mailto:sabre28...@yahoo.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List inexpensive chartplotter
> Message-ID: <315634372.98516.1539951207...@mail.yahoo.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> So I'm a bit torn over what to do here, the boat has a mount for an iPad and 
> the past owner use the iPad with Navigation apps and I am tempted to go that 
> route, but I know that iPads have their drawbacks with visibility due to 
> glare, limited functions and are not designed to withstand the harsh elements 
> of the marine environment.
> I really don't need much so I am probably leaning toward the ipad due to 
> cost, but if I were to consider a small dependable unit what suggestions 
> might you have for me? There are too many choices to scroll through on the 
> internet and it leaves me more confused than when I first started the search. 
> What models have you had success with?

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Re: Stus-List Solar and batteries

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I was surprised at how well these $15-$20 meters work.   I first installed one 
with a shunt  about 2 yrs ago as a test to measure the power output for my 
house bank.   I installed a second meter for measuring the charging input using 
the same shunt.  Using the same shunt wired in reverse make installing the 
second meter trivial.  There are no real cost savings regarding 2, 1, or 0 
shunts as a meter with the shunt only cost about $2 more.  Two nice features 
for using a shunt: safely handles larger current loads, and if a meter ever 
fails, normal battery operation continues.   These meters display energy 
properly as Watt*hrs rather than the convenient (but improper) Amp*hrs, so you 
have divide by the voltage to get the Ah.

I include the link to the meter I purchased below because the Amazon 
description shows several a nice installation schematics including separate 
solar, inverter, and input/output bank.   I basically have meters #2 & #3 wired 
as shown on the solar wiring instructions (image 4) except that my engine 
ground (i.e. starter) is connected directly to the battery negative and not 
after the shunt.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1T3LOAKNUUM9N=1

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 29, 2018, at 10:25 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 22:24:47 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Solar and batteries
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> All lead acid batteries exhibit what I believe is called a surface charge
> immediately after charge.  When doing any battery condition testing it is
> important to "burn off" the surface charge OR allow the batteries to rest
> for about 24 hours.  At max charge rate (bulk charge stage) you will see
> voltage clime until it reaches as high as 14.6 or 14.7, particularly when
> on the engine or shore power charger (maybe not on a 50w solar panel.)
> Once the bulk is complete (80% charged) the voltage will hold at 14.7ish
> through the absorption stage and the max current will taper off until about
> 2amps.  Once 2 amps is reached the charger changes to float stage which is
> usually ~13.3v.  Assuming your charging system is large enough to fully
> make up for the usage, 13.3v is where you should normally find your
> batteries while on charge.  After sundown 13.3v will decay to 12.7v.
> 
> I have one of these on my solar charge system. It makes seeing and
> understanding what is going on much easier.  This particular model is nice
> since no external shunt is required.  You could even get two and then
> monitor the loads and the charges.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017FSED9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yp1HBbFG41PCM 
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List USCG Notification of LED Interference

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I was just about to send out a similar email.  Below is a link to a 
Passagemaker.com  article regarding “Potential LED 
Interference With VHF, DSC, and AIS Communications “.  In short, the main issue 
are LEDs in proximity to antennas.  

In my case, I have a mast head antenna and a LED anchor bulb.  I have not 
noticed any issues, but then I don’t usually have the VHF and the anchor light 
on simultaneously.  But the test they outline seems simple, so why not test all 
LEDs.  

1. Turn off LED lights 
2. Tune VHF radio to a quiet channel (USCG gives Ch 13 as an example, 
though this may not be the best channel in all waterways)
3. Adjust the VHF radio's squelch control until the radio outputs audio 
noise. 
4. Re-adjust the VHF radio’s squelch control until the audio noise is 
quiet, only slightly above the noise threshold. 
5. Turn on the LED light(s), do this for each circuit/type of lights 
(spotlight, navigation lights, deck lights, interior lights (by area of the 
boat).
1.If the radio now outputs audio noise, then the LEDs have 
raised the noise floor. (Noise floor is generally the amount of interfering 
signals / static received beyond the specific signal or channel being 
monitored.)
2. If the radio does not output audio noise, then LEDs have not 
raised the noise floor.


https://www.passagemaker.com/trawler-news/led-vhf-interference?utm_source=passagemaker-enewsletter_medium=email_content=morelink_campaign=enewsletter-082118

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 21, 2018, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:58:12 -0400
> From: "Bill Coleman" mailto:colt...@verizon.net>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List USCG Notification of LED Interference
> Message-ID: <450f01d43967$c3ce29f0$4b6a7dd0$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Maybe these LED's are the cheap EBay kind, I checked MarineBeam site, and 
> hopefully they have this handled.
> 
> 
> 
> The Great Lakes Cruising Club sent out notification of this potential issue 
> today.? The USCG bulletin can be accessed at the following site-
> 
> https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Portals/9/DCO%20Documents/5p/CG-5PC/INV/Alerts/1318.pdf?ver=2018-08-16-091109-630
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://store.marinebeam.com/controlling-emi-1/ 
> 
> 
> I have heard that Fluorescent bulbs are one of the worst line polluters. 
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA

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Re: Stus-List Head Problems

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Gary,

A good source of information is Practical Sailor.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_3/features/Electric-Flush-Marine-Toilets_10144-1.html

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I wavered in confusion too and landed on the side of not bolding.On the 
West Marine Advisor website they have reprinted a Practical Sailor article 
written by Stan Honey.  I include the link below.  It is a good read.  Under 
the section on “Bonding and Electrolytic Corrosion”, the first sentence 
read,”Do not bond any thru-hulls or other immersed metal that can be 
electrically isolated.”

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Grounding-Systems

All we need now is a discussion on galvanic isolators… 

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


> On Aug 14, 2018, at 3:06 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 14:43:02 -0400
> From: "Bill Coleman" mailto:colt...@verizon.net>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Galvanic corrosion (Della
>   Barba, Joe)
> Message-ID: <3dc101d433fe$a252eb80$e6f8c280$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Well, Joe, you have just thrown some weight to a very weighty question in my 
> head.
> 
> I have read where these thru hulls are to be grounded, and then I read where 
> you shouldn?t , so I think over the years some I have re-done some grounds, 
> then I read the other way, and I don?t connect them, so half mine are 
> grounded, and the other half are not, just because I don?t know what to do! 
> 
> 
> 
> Are a couple drinks a day good for you, or bad for you?
> 
> Depends on the latest study you read! 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I am going with you, no grounds on any thru-hulls!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for clearing my head. (At least until I read another article.)
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

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Stus-List Landfall 38 stemhead bow roller replacement

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Folks,

I mentioned some time back that I needed to replace a broken stemhead bow 
roller on my Landfall 38.  I came up with a design and fabricated it with the 
help of a friend.   I installed the new stemhead bow roller this past weekend, 
and I’m pleased with the outcome.For those interested, I put a few details 
and photos online.

See https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2018/06/stemhead-replacement.html 



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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Re: Stus-List Refrigeration March pump

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

John,

Flagship Marine is a reasonable source for March Pumps.   I did not see a 
direct replacement for model 893-001-04, but a quick google search suggest that 
the replacement model is 893-04.   See the link below.


https://www.flagshipmarine.com/marinepumps.html 




-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 6, 2018, at 2:14 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2018 18:13:41 +
> From: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refrigeration on my C 37+
> Message-ID:
>   
>   
> >
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> mine is down  too!  water cooled and small pump was screamin
> was a MARCH MANUFACTURING
> model 893-001-04  12v,1amp about 6?tall
> Are these guys still around ? or what can I use to replace ?
> Need Cold Beer  yes! :)
> thanks all
> 
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net 
>  >

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Re: Stus-List mystery item

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Dennis nailed it.

Learn something new every day.  I googled "vang collar reefing boom” and came 
across the 
photo below of what is referred to as a reefing horseshoe or reefing claw for 
the boom vang 



https://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/sailing/10409061.jpg 


There is a post on this forum page with additional info:

https://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Boom-furler?page=1


-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Aug 2, 2018, at 7:47 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 15:44:13 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mystery item
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> That's a vang collar.  Betting you have a round boom.  Also guessing it is
> a roller boom.  Is there a place in the gooseneck assembly to insert a
> crank and roll the boom?
> 
> The vang collar slides over the outboard end of the boom.  It is moved
> towards the mast and a vang is attached to it.  If necessary, the mainsail
> could be roller reefed a bit with the collar installed.  Not recommended.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

In docking, I aways follow the wise advise I received on this list: “Never 
approach the dock faster than you are willing to hit it.”



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

___

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