Re: Stus-List CO detector choices
I don't believe home Co detectors actually detect Co. I set mine off over charging my 8d battery. Pretty sure batteries off gas hydrogen and not Co. Anyone know how they actually work? Or is my chemistry lacking? Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" Date: 2017-11-27 16:44 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" Subject: Stus-List CO detector choices My original coal mine CO detector died long ago. I replaced it with a Xintex marine CO detector. It is now old enough to need replacement or a factory refurb if they will do it. That will cost either $140 or so for new or $25 for a refurb. So I was in the hardware store and what do you know – a home CO detector for $25 brand new and it runs on batteries. Does anyone have any idea if these are suitable for a boat? I am going to get something, no way do I want people sleeping below without some kind of alarm. Joe Della Barba Coquina ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List survey says...
Seems reasonable. The hull will spring back into place. Mine has done so a number of years if I don't get to adjusting the pads just right after it gets moves in the yard. Shouldn't be much pressure there anyways. The pads are only to keep the boat from falling over. The two leaks are common areas. Mast boot around keel stepped mast and new bedding of either the hatch or the glazing in the hatch is likely all that is needed. Enjoy. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" Date: 2017-10-19 07:40 (GMT-04:00) To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" Subject: Stus-List survey says... Hi all, I've gotten the survey back on the 1987 30MKii I'm considering. Above average condition overall, the surveyor was impressed by the condition overall. The rudder has significant water intrusion despite previous repairs, there are slight depressions in the hull on the aft supports due to boat being on the hard for over a year (surveyor thinks these will come out when launched but need to address it now by putting wider pads), and there appear to be two leaks - one at the forward hatch and one possibly around the mast (there was a bit of water on the cushion just forward of the galley). Boat has recent (2015) new sails, 2 new ST winches, and a new mast track. FMV estimate is ~18% below asking price. Given this, any final words of wisdom for me as try to negotiate a final deal? Thanks in advance. Lisle ___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets
Working on my Qm I have found patience a must. 😆 Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List Date: 2017-09-27 11:12 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Hobson Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2QM15 - Anti-seize, lock tight, gaskets Currently replacing fuel filters and doing general maintenance on a neglected engine. Replacing the zincs, tightening nuts, replacing hoses. And after switching out the zinc and tightening the nut I wondered if it should be putting a liquid gasket, blue lock tight or anti seize on there. What are the must-haves for protecting an engine when taking things apart and putting them back together? Chris Hobson S/V Going 1980 C&C MKI Hull 615 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Rules of the Road
Any idea of the boat name/colout? Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: robert via CnC-List Date: 2017-07-18 11:30 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert Subject: Stus-List Rules of the Road Yesterday afternoon, having a pleasant sail in Halifax harbor, 5.5 knots, starboard tack with a 25' to 30' cape island power boat approaching at about the same speed on my port side. As we approached each other, I was judging distance and time and it became clear we were on a collision course. Since I was under sail and he was a leisure boat, not commercial, under power I assumed he would give way..maybe slow his speed and let me cross in front of him or he would duck behind me. Not happeningI could see him looking right at me so it was not a case where he didn't, couldn't see me.at the last moment when I realized he wasn't going to give me right of way, I 'crashed tacked'..I didn't even have time to release the jib...just spun around 180 degrees and he passed approx. 3' from my transom. There were two people sitting in chairs on his back deck that saw me and looked bewildered wondering why I was so close to them. He didn't slow down, didn't alter his course, didn't acknowledge me in any way. If I had not turned, we would have collided..given my judgement of the situation, he would have T-boned me about mid ship, port side at 5 to 6 knots. I will be more careful in the future..this was way too close and totally unnecessary. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension
Ditto on mine. As well, unless you turn the boat upside down you can take all the stays off. Light winds of course. Mast isn't going to fall out of the cabin. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: robert via CnC-List Date: 2017-05-11 09:26 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert Subject: Stus-List Backstay length and tension Gary Good point.when I reattach mine, I have the second person holding the backstay(s) push the adjuster all the way up ...usually with a boat hook. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 -84 Halifax, N.S. On 2017-05-11 9:17 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote: I have the split backstay arrangement as well. Probably the yard guys didn’t push the adjuster up all the way to the split when they were reattaching the backstays. Just a guess. Gary St. Michaels MD ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List AIS VHF
Now if Garmin would only combine the as box with their vhf box they'd be an industry leader. It could be their vhf 900 series. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List Date: 2016-10-12 2:19 PM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Pete Shelquist Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF FWIW, my separate Garmin AIS and radio use one antenna. The AIS has a built in splitter. This is nothing new. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve Thomas via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 11:55 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Steve Thomas Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF I can't see any reason not to use a single antenna on vessels that are voluntarily equipped with AIS. Time will tell if the recreational market is big enough for someone to make a suitable rig. It ought to be, in my opinion. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON "Della Barba wrote: ☹ That is 99% of the reason I wanted the combined unit. I wanted to use the masthead antenna for both. Dang! Joe Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2016 09:49 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS VHF Hi, Mike — no, I highly doubt there will be any kind of upgrade path to allow the GX2200 to transmit. That takes a bunch more electronics, and also a lot of FCC certification. If you look at the new VHF/AIS transceiver, it’s actually got TWO antenna connections on the back; one for VHF and one for AIS. That would be tough to add to the GX2200… :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Electrical Question
Nope as you would then be displaying the lights of a vessel greater than 50m at anchor as seen from directly astern. A picture is worth a lot and here is a good example:Www.westmarine.com/westadvisor/navigation-light-rules Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: robert via CnC-List Date: 2016-09-12 12:24 PM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question The light I am talking about is the one 1/2 up the front of the mast just above the spreadersnot the one on the top of the mast seen 360 degrees..I was told the one on the front of the mast is longer a legal requirement but the one on the top of the mast is a legal requirement when motoring or motor sailing. Am I correct? Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2016-09-12 10:11 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote: Rob — unless there have been changes in regs that I’m not aware of, a steaming light (also referred to as a masthead light) IS still required, when motoring at night, along with the bow (or sidelights) and stern light. Maybe Canadian regs are different. On your existing fixture, the black is probably a common ground for the deck and steaming light; the red and green will be separate positive leads for each of the two lights. The replacement light from the Binnacle may only show one white wire; but my guess is that it contains three conductors, the same as the existing fixture. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote: When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 years old. Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this Fall although I understand this light is no longer legally required...but I do like the halogen foredeck light. I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to the existing one: Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIGHT/product_info.html It appears, without removing mine, that there are three (3) white wires exiting the foot of the mast connecting to 'green, red and black' ..I assume the green is negative, red is positive and black in ground. Here's the question..the new light fixture at the Binnacle only has one white wire as a connection...there is (are) no other places on the back of the fixture to connect other wires. So if my old fixture has 3 connections (assuming it does but I have not removed it to be sure) and this new fixture only has one 'white wire', how do you connect it? As you can tell, I am no electrician. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List List of 30-1s
Muir Caileag is hull 549 Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: RANDY via CnC-List Date: 2016-08-18 3:04 AM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list Cc: RANDY Subject: Stus-List List of 30-1s This is great information. Wish such a thing existed for 30-1s as well. Could we start a tabulation, or does one already exist? I only know of a few from this list: Hull #1 - Anchovy - Rick Bushie - Worton, MDHull #7 - Grenadine - Randy Stafford - Ken Caryl, CO (tiller steering, traveler aft)Hull #377 - Nobody's Bargain - Ryan Doyle - New YorkHull #453 - Windburn - Michael Brown - ?Hull #540 - Admiral Maggie - Aaron Rouhi - Annapolis, MDHull #593 - Volunteer - Gary Nylander - St. Michaels, MDHull #? - Wild Cheri - Ron Frerker - St. Louis, MOHull #? - Sarah Jean - Nate Flesness - St. Croix River, WIHull #? - Zia - Joe Boyle - ?Hull #? - Muir Ca-leag - Jeff Nelson - HalifaxHull #? - Cousin - Antoine Rose - ? Cheers,Randy From: "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" To: "cnc-list" Cc: "Frederick G Street" Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 7:58:53 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc. John — here’s some info for you: Frank Noragon S/V Cool Change C&C Landfall 38, #001 Rose City Yacht Club Portland, Oregon (this would have been a Rhode Island boat, I believe) Jeff Cole 1979 C&C Landfall 38“Masala" (not sure of the hull number, but must be near mine; also a Rhode Island build, I think) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 17, 2016, at 8:15 PM, John Sandford via CnC-List wrote: Im just starting one judging by the feedback !I got 7 replies alreadyDo you have more information for Frank and Jeff,like boat name and year. Here is what the starting columns areHullYearOwnerBoat NameBuilt atPresent Location ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List mast collor straps
For the record you want to un-tighten the rig. Tightening should make it worse. Even have Backstay off. I put my straps on before putting my mast all the way in. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List Date: 2016-08-02 2:35 PM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Alessi Subject: Stus-List mast collor straps Tightening the rig didn't work. The next step was to do like you suggested with adding something under the mast. I'm a little apprensive of causing damage to the deck with just lifting and dropping. Tom Alessi S/V ANDIAMO C&C 36, 1980 Rockaway Bch, NY 646-283-1580 tagraph...@optonline.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List mast collar straps
If you have any rig tension on that would do it. Other options, assuming you haven't had any mast step work done is to raise the mast up a bit, put the bolts in and drop it back down. Or shim the mast up to the right height. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List Date: 2016-08-02 1:30 PM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Alessi Subject: Stus-List mast collar straps Hi, This is my first season sailing after a season on the hard doing repairs. When the yard re-stepped the mast the holes on the metal straps that bolt through the mast no longer align. The holes on the mast are lower by 3/8". As part of the rehab I had removed the mast collar. so I initially thought that I used too much caulking in the installation. I removed the collar and scrapped away all the caulking but the holes are still off. I wasn't there when the yard had originally took out the mast so I'm not sure if there was anything under the mast causing it to be slightly higher. I'm relunctant to drill a new set of holes. Any advice would be appreciated. Thx Tom Alessi S/V ANDIAMO C&C 36, 1980 Rockaway Bch, NY 646-283-1580 tagraph...@optonline.net ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing
I race every Wednesday and some Saturdays Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Date: 2016-07-10 23:22 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard Subject: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing I'm curious: How many of you guys race every Wednesday night? ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting
Old wiring should be fine. Incandescent lights draw way more powere than LEDs Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" Date: 2016-06-10 12:07 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Richard N. Bush" , j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting Jack, if replacing an older light fixture with a new one, such as the Alpenglow LED lights, (see below), can you use the existing wiring? or must new wiring be run to the fixture? Thanks Richard 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4 Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List To: C&CList Cc: Jack Fitzgerald Sent: Fri, Jun 10, 2016 10:53 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Salon Lighting Bill, Take a look at the Alpenglow LED lights. I replaced all of the old thin light with these and although pricy, the work very well and look great Best regards, Jack Fitzgerald HONEY C&C 39 TM This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion
Also may need to consult inland waterways rules as there are further restrictions. These rules apply in harbours etc where paddle boards are more likely to be found Www.navecenuscg.gov/pdf/naverules/naverules.pdf are the US ones. Canada has them as well but can't find them at the moment. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: RANDY via CnC-List Date: 2016-06-07 23:12 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list Cc: RANDY Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion Seconded. I believe the underlying ROW principle between different categories of vessel is that the more maneuverable give way to the less maneuverable. Best Regards,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO From: "Indigo via CnC-List" To: "cnc-list" Cc: "Indigo" Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 7:23:13 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of vessels. When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In general, manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go where most other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled vessels at the absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give way to all other classes of vessels. While I am always courteous and careful around them, they do irritate me hugely when they insist in sticking to the middle of a channel! --JonathanIndigo C&C 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week. Seems a sailboat was approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's). Sailor didn't know who had ROW. As he went by the SUP's, he asked them. They didn't know either. With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc. The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy. We just row ashore or to neighboring boats. Here's some vague guidance: from navcen.uscg.gov: "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but, ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." Source: http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13 Interesting topic. What say you? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion
I suggest that row boats ate power vessels where the "vessel propelled by machinery" is oars. Then rule 18 becomes quite clear. Regardless, rule 18 is likely to apply as a paddle boarder is likely in an area of shallow water where navigation is limited by draught. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: RANDY via CnC-List Date: 2016-06-07 23:12 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list Cc: RANDY Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion Seconded. I believe the underlying ROW principle between different categories of vessel is that the more maneuverable give way to the less maneuverable. Best Regards,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO From: "Indigo via CnC-List" To: "cnc-list" Cc: "Indigo" Sent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 7:23:13 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion I would think that "manually propelled" vessels form a different class of vessels. When two vessels belonging to different classes meet, the vessel belonging to the more maneuverable class is the "give way" vessel. In general, manually propelled vessels have minimal draft, and can therefor go where most other vessels cannot. This imho would place manually propelled vessels at the absolute bottom of the pecking order and be required to give way to all other classes of vessels. While I am always courteous and careful around them, they do irritate me hugely when they insist in sticking to the middle of a channel! --JonathanIndigo C&C 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Jun 7, 2016, at 20:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: Saw a post on a local yacht club board this week. Seems a sailboat was approaching a group of stand up paddle boarders (SUP's). Sailor didn't know who had ROW. As he went by the SUP's, he asked them. They didn't know either. With the exception of required lights, the rules seem to be minimal on situations with oared craft such as dinghies, SUP's, kayaks, canoes, etc. The Admiral and I rarely put the outboard on our dinghy. We just row ashore or to neighboring boats. Here's some vague guidance: from navcen.uscg.gov: "13. Where do Kayaks and Canoes fit into the Navigation Rules? Neither the International nor Inland Navigation Rules address "kayaks" or "canoes" per se, except in regards to "vessels under oars" in Rule 25 regarding lights. One could infer that a "vessel under oars" should be treated as a "sailing vessel" since it is permitted to display the same lights as one, but, ultimately the issue of whom "gives way" would fall to what would be "required by the ordinary practice of seamen, or by the special circumstances of the case" (Rule 2)." Source: http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=navRulesFAQ#0.3_13 Interesting topic. What say you? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Also ground cable to engine/transmission case can cause it. Or if yanmar the fuse on the engine can become corrode. Mine developed a break in the fuse holder and needed replacing Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List Date: 2016-06-06 03:44 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Douglas Mountjoy Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem I would suggest checking for power (12v) at the small wire on the solenoid with the ignition switch in the start position. This will tell you if the switch and wiring is ok. Use a test light if you have one. The test light will put a small load on the circuit, where as a volt meter will not. Another quick test is to short between the battery hot at solenoid and the small wire terminal and see if it turns over. Good luck Doug Mountjoy Pegasus LF 38 hull #4 Ballard WA. Sent from my iPad > On Jun 5, 2016, at 8:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to > get done. > > Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was > running smoothly. Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from > turning the key. > > > Batteries seem fine. Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the > radio when trying to turn over the engine. > > I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few > hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start. > That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the > engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?). > > That was my first check today - but it was attached. Pulled it off to clean > contact but no effect. > > > I figure there are 3 possibilities > > 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over > > 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise > or power dip indicating that something was seized > > 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I > presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well. > Nothing obviously disconnected > > > I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out > what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix! > > > Any advice is appreciated. I presume is the key is working them I'd get a > voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it > suggests either 1 or 3. Where should I see that? > > I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - > maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed > > Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin > the starter/solenoid directly? > > > The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP > > > Thanks in advance for the advice, > > Mark > > There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. > - George Santayana > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2
Cabin top flexes upward, doors won't close. Boat flexes more than it should.Generally I don't think anything catestrophic would happen...immediately anyway. But flexing the Cabin top is likely not great. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Wayne Anstey via CnC-List Date: 2016-05-31 3:25 PM (GMT-04:00) To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Cc: Wayne Anstey Subject: Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2 What happens if you don't put them on at all and only put the wedges in? Wayne Anstey Resilience 1964 C&C 30mk1 Bedford, N S, Canada Sent from my Bell Sony device over Canada’s largest network. Bruce Pope via CnC-List wrote > Hi Doug. > > > I had the same problem on my 29-2. Installed the mast for the first time > after transport, tuned the rigging, everything set up and then... found the > tangs in a galley drawer where I had stored them for transport. I had to > slacken all rigging before I could get the holes to align. > > > > > From: CnC-List on behalf of Persuasion37 via > CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2016 4:17 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Persuasion37 > Subject: Re: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2 > > Hi Doug. > > > On my 37 I cannot install the bolts if I tune the mast first. I've done this > a couple of times now and the only thing to do is loosen everything, install > the bolts and re-tune. > > > Mike > > C&C 37 > > Long Sault > > > Sent from my iPad > > > On May 30, 2016, at 8:05 PM, doug.welch--- via CnC-List > wrote: > > When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the mast > collar tangs so I had a friend fabricate a duplicate. Both are now misaligned > and the holes are about 1/4 inch too high to slip the bolt in (the boat is > fully rigged). My friends have different opinions on this. One says release > the rigging and the tangs will slightly deform the cabin top when we reset > the mast. Another days remake the tangs so the bolts line up with jokes in > the mast when it's fully rigged. Looking for help from you folks. > > > > Cheers, > > Doug > > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated!___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support
Drop me a line and I'll send you pictures of what it looks like. I took mine out and took pics. Jhnelson24 at Gmail dot com Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List Date: 2016-05-20 9:02 AM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ryan Doyle Subject: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support Hey everyone, I've been dealing with some flexing parts of my cabin sole around the bilge access panel in my 1976 C&C 30. I've put some wood shims between the cabin sole and the hull fiberglass down there and they help a bit, but don't fix the problem. Because of the odd shape of the space between the cabin sole and the hull fiberglass, I keep thinking there might be some sort of hardening foam I could inject down there, or some sort of flexible substance that then could harden to shore up the floor. Does such a thing exist? Is that a terrible idea for any reason? Anyone have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance. Ryan ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating
Thanks Mike I'll look into this.I have dacron sails and only the one spin. Jib is 135. So should definitely qualify. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" Date: 2016-05-20 10:35 AM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating Jeff If your main and jibs are dacron and if you only have one jib > 110% and only one nylon spinnaker you qualify for recreational adjustment with is a further +6 Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jhnelson via CnC-List Sent: Friday, May 20, 2016 10:15 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: jhnelson Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating Mine in Halifax is rated: 171 base + 6 for fixed prop 177 total. If I chose to drop my spinnaker I Would gain another 18 points for 195. No adjustment for rolling furler Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List Date: 2016-05-20 1:34 AM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net Subject: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating Listers- Just wondering how many of you 30-1 owners out there have ever received a PHRF certificate for your boat, and what your rating was. Looking at http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/DARoot/Offshore/PHRF/2014%20PHRF%20Handicaps%20Data.pdf, the range is 168-186 with mode 174 and mean 174.64 (and median 177). But it's hard to know the particulars of all those boats that were rated e.g. how many had folding props. And there may be rating inconsistency between US Sailing regional sailing associations. The PHRF chairman of my regional sailing association gave my 30-1 base PHRF of 186, and an adjusted PHRF of 180 (a -6 adjustment due to spinnaker max width >180% of J). AFAIK my boat is totally stock, including a fixed two-blade prop. Just wondering how my PHRF ratings compare to other 30-1s' PHRF ratings, and wondering about the particulars of the 30-1s that got rated. Thanks In Advance, Randy Stafford S/V Grenadine C&C 30-1 #7 Ken Caryl, CO ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support
Mine flexed quite a bit. There is a cardboard tube covered in fiberglass that runs the length of the main cabin sole starboard side of the bilge access. When putting in the teak and holly floor they had drilled though it causing wayer to deteriorate the structure and balsa core.I pulled mine, replaced the core with divinity core and put it back in place. Now just need to replace the teak and holly. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Joseph Bognar via CnC-List Date: 2016-05-20 10:43 AM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joseph Bognar Subject: Re: Stus-List 30mki cabin sole support I find it odd that your cabin sole flexes so much. Have you checked your mast step . If it has dropped or the wood support is rotten as it sits in water then it may be the cause of your weak sole . I own a 1979 era 30 and my cabin sole is solid . I also have teak and holly through out the cabin . Instead of foam you could epoxy in some hard wood wedges in the troublesome area. I would investigate it more as to why it is so weak though Sent from Joe Bognar > On May 20, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hey everyone, > > I've been dealing with some flexing parts of my cabin sole around the bilge > access panel in my 1976 C&C 30. I've put some wood shims between the cabin > sole and the hull fiberglass down there and they help a bit, but don't fix > the problem. > > Because of the odd shape of the space between the cabin sole and the hull > fiberglass, I keep thinking there might be some sort of hardening foam I > could inject down there, or some sort of flexible substance that then could > harden to shore up the floor. > > Does such a thing exist? Is that a terrible idea for any reason? Anyone > have any other suggestions? > > Thanks in advance. > > Ryan > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating
Mine in Halifax is rated:171 base + 6 for fixed prop177 total. If I chose to drop my spinnaker IWould gain another 18 points for 195. No adjustment for rolling furler Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List Date: 2016-05-20 1:34 AM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net Subject: Stus-List 30-1 PHRF Rating Listers- Just wondering how many of you 30-1 owners out there have ever received a PHRF certificate for your boat, and what your rating was. Looking at http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/DARoot/Offshore/PHRF/2014%20PHRF%20Handicaps%20Data.pdf, the range is 168-186 with mode 174 and mean 174.64 (and median 177). But it's hard to know the particulars of all those boats that were rated e.g. how many had folding props. And there may be rating inconsistency between US Sailing regional sailing associations. The PHRF chairman of my regional sailing association gave my 30-1 base PHRF of 186, and an adjusted PHRF of 180 (a -6 adjustment due to spinnaker max width >180% of J). AFAIK my boat is totally stock, including a fixed two-blade prop. Just wondering how my PHRF ratings compare to other 30-1s' PHRF ratings, and wondering about the particulars of the 30-1s that got rated. Thanks In Advance,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Binnacle website
Try clearing browser cache. Sometimes a redirect gets muddled in. I had that problem with Leevalley when the did mtc on their site, my browser always wanted to Goto their site temporarily down page instead of regular home page. If you can start by clearing browser history,If that doesn't work move on to cache clearing completely. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Peter Fell via CnC-List Date: 2016-05-10 12:27 AM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Peter Fell Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website Thanks guys. It’s a mystery at this point. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Binnacle website
Just you I was on it a bunch today Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Peter Fell via CnC-List Date: 2016-05-09 8:31 PM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Peter Fell Subject: Stus-List Binnacle website Is is just me or is Binnacle’s Canadian website down ... like for the last week or so? Peter Fell Sidney, BC Cygnet C&C 27 MkIII___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Battery Posts
I believe motormaster marine battery terminal $5.99 is exactly what you are looking for. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List Date: 2016-05-08 10:58 AM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Paul Fountain Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts Steve, I'd check Canadian Tire, they have a selection of terminals many that don't require swaging. May have a post conversion too Sent from Outlook Mobile On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 6:34 AM -0700, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" wrote: Hi All, I replaced my 2 x group 24 batteries with 2 trojan T-105 golf cart batteries. I didn't consider the posts when I purchased the batteries and now that they're on the boat I realize that the battery cables won't work with these batteries. I had made considerations about size, space, load etc but not the actual physical properties of the posts. (I made cardboard mockups and they fit just like so) Anyway, I need an adapter like this: http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mLLQIF_sRVx-dY8oMZ0k15Q.jpg 1. what the heck is that called? 2. where can I get them?!!! I have found a lot of suppliers that sell the "male" version of that but I need it just like in the photo. Unless I'm missing something - which is entirely in the realm of possibility. I don't have the tools to crimp new lugs onto the cables nor can I remove the cables from the boat to have it done. They are very nicely routed through the boat and that's a whole can of worms I don't care to open. Thanks, Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 25 leak
Pretty much. You may have to go more than a 1/4 turn. But it will become obvious how much once you get startedSome of mine the nuts had backed off almost completely. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List Date: 2016-05-01 4:27 PM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark McMenamy Subject: Stus-List C&C 25 leak Hello everyone, I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees. When it rains no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of water in each bin. After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail. What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the topsides and the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the down wind side. I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the toe rail that hold the topsides to the hull. I've read online that you hold the screw steady on top and turn the bolt underneath. I believe there is butyl tape in between the hull and the topsides. I was thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn. Is my thinking on this correct? Thanks a lot for your help. Mark McMenamy C&C 25 "Icicle" Fort Pierce FL ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness
Just fyi..if you are planning to use it for sanctioned offshore race it would need to be modified to have leg straps. Otherwise it is very similar to mine and is very comfy for round the buoys and coastal. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: sthoma20--- via CnC-List Date: 2016-02-19 10:11 AM (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca Subject: Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness West Marine has an automatic inflatable harness on sale today only for 150 bucks. (U.S.) I have no experience with the product, but I just paid more than twice that much for a Spinlock product that is not even coast guard certified. Steve Thomas C&C36 Merritt Island, FL ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller
It could be at the cockpit sole. If yours is like mine, C&C wasn't terribly precise in drilling the hole for the rudder stock to go through. That left very little material to support the top bearing bolts laterally and over time the glass could have broken out. A little bit if new glass to rebuild the area and you could be good. There are 4 bolts reasonably accessibleFrom below the cockpit if you want to pull it off for a look. Remember to support your rudder, as the top bearing and pin is the only thing keeping it in the boat. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List Date: 2016-01-22 14:05 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ryan Doyle Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller Hi Josh, Thanks very much. My apologies.. I should have been clearer in my description of the issue. The play is certainly not in the attachment of the wood tiller to the metal plates or the stock head (option 1 or 2). That would have been too easy. It is below that in what I think is (4) the deck bushing. Thanks again in advance for the help. Ryan Message: 4 Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2016 13:37:37 -0500 From: Josh Muckley To: "C&C List" Subject: Re: Stus-List 1976 30mki - Tightening the tiller Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Not real clear where the play is. It looks like there are at least 4 interfaces which need checked to determine the feasibility of reducing the play. 1 - Wood to metal plates transition on the tiller. 2 - Metal plates on tiller to rudder stock head (square). 3 - Rudder stock head (square) to rudder stock (round) . 4 - Rudder stock (round) moving side to side (port/stbd) in the deck bushing. Let us know where the play is being experienced and I'm sure someone will have answers. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Jib sheet
Well stated. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List Date: 2016-01-06 22:40 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Subject: Re: Stus-List Jib sheet Mike, If you ever need to cut free a jib sheet, (to deal with a winch override or other calamity) it is better to have two sheets tied to the clew than just one continuous sheet with a cow hitch in the middle (or even luggage tagged to the sail). If you tie your bowlines with small eyes and long tails, you won't likely snag your baby stay with the knot. If you're contemplating the single sheet alternative, don't put any hardware at the connection point to the clew as you'll get whacked by it when the sail if flogging and it will hurt like hell! Having been a bow guy on a C&C 40 for 10+ years (with a baby stay), I can testify to the wisdom of having two sheets. Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1975 25 Mk 1 S/V Orion 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA Acoustiguardcom ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??
Any chance there is a crack in a cockpit drain hose and under motor when the boat says a bit it is forcing water through the hose Crack? Rain water and such would likely flow straight through without significant or any leakage. Just a thought and easier than removing and retourquing keel bolts. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Sailnomad via CnC-List Date: 2015-12-14 12:45 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Sailnomad Subject: Stus-List Water Ingress ?? When tabasco (c&c25 with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 quarts an hour, even in calm seas. I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem to be tight and I have no "smile". I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel bolts. Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on the leading edge of the keel ? I have no stuffing box. Ahmet S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I S/V Tabasco C&C 25 Winthrop, MA, USA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List converting TOD results to TOT
Why not just use sailwave and select the appropriate scoring system? Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List Date: 2015-11-06 10:41 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Pete Shelquist Subject: Stus-List converting TOD results to TOT I’m trying to save myself some time and not reinvent the wheel: Does anyone have a spreadsheet for converting race results from TOD to TOT? From the results I have PHRF rating and Elapsed Time in D:HH:MM:SS format. Thanks, ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Signal K interface
Graham aren't most routers 12v?My airline uses a 120 to 12v adapter...so I suspect it would work sans adapter on the boat. Seems to me linksys now ciscoIs the same. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Graham Collins via CnC-List Date: 2015-10-28 17:39 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Graham Collins Subject: Re: Stus-List Signal K interface You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for $179. :-) Now I need a 12v WiFi router. Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: Just spent $200 on a flyer: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin If it works it will convert NMEA to an open source. -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank
Yes you won't be able to make martini's Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: John Russo via CnC-List Date: 2015-10-26 21:20 (GMT-04:00) To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: John Russo Subject: Stus-List Vodka for Hot water tank Any downside to putting some vodka in the hot water tank after draining as an alternative to antifreeze which forever smells when using hot water. The drain in not quite positioned at the bottom of the tank so there is always some residual water left in the tank and although I leave the drain valve open for expansion I am concerned that any freezing could damage the tank connections. Any advice would be appreciated. JohnArpeggio C&C 32Norwalk, CT___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List VC17
Any possibility you are getting galvanic corrosion? We had a similar issue at Nepean Sailing Club, where the tannic acid from years of logging created a battery when different metals were in close proximity. We ended up losing a number of marina mooring chains. All were corroded just below the water. Analysis by NRC people figured out the number of anodes required to protect the moorings. I'm sure some poking around with a volt meter could confirm. Not sure of the makeup of water in Lake Winnipeg...but just an out of the box idea as it sounds similar in location. Food for thought. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List Date: 13-10-2015 16:46 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Brent Driedger Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 Thanks everyone. Next season I will try the solvent wash trick. I think I still have a can from my initial hull rebuild 7 years ago. I'll see if it has a shelf life. Otherwise I could just accept that my boat is so fast, paint just won't stay put! Brent27-5Lake Winnipeg Sent from my iPhone On Oct 12, 2015, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote: FWIW, Didn't have any problem getting bottom paint to stick to my Interprotect. I scuffed the Interprotect w 80 grit to provide tooth as on the instructions. No problems after 8 years. No problem getting paint to stick to later interprotect paint when I changed the depth and speed sensor thruhulls and Interprotected the fairing job before bottom painting. I did wipe the Interprotect w a solvent after scuffing w 80 grit. I think they recommended 216. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Rick Brass" Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 8:27:46 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 Graham is correct. The Interprotect literature indicates you should apply the first coat of bottom paint before the Interprotect fully cures so that it bonds with the Interprotect and acts as a primer. You touch the partially cured material with a knuckle. When it is cured enough that you leave a knuckle print but it does not stick to your skin, then you apply the first coat. If I recall, it took about 45 minutes to cure sufficiently. Basically, very little will stick to cured Interprotect except Interprotect. Since I use Petit ablative paint, I put on a primer coat of hard Trinidad Pro. After it was cured/dry, I painted with the final bottom paint. No problems in the last 6 or 7 years. I can’t really say why the 6” or so along the waterline sluffs off, but that is what happened on Imzadi before I put on the Interprotect. I’ve been told is is because of the wave action causing erosion of the paint, but I’ve also been told that the UV is a contributing factor. Rick BrassWashington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Collins via CnC-List Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 11:43 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Graham Collins Subject: Re: Stus-List VC17 First coat of bottom paint has to go onto Interprotect 2000 while the interprotect is still tacky, if I'm recalling correctly. I've overcoated Interprotect with Micron CSX this way and had good results. Graham CollinsSecret PlansC&C 35-III #11On 2015-10-12 10:57 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:Brent,That's weird. I'm taking a quess. Maybe there was some sanding dust on the hull after sanding? Did you wipe the bottom with rags dipped in a solvent, before painting? Is it peeled off or worn off. Got any pictures? Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" To: "C&C List" Cc: "Brent Driedger" Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 12:25:06 AM Subject: Stus-List VC17 Hi everyone and to my fellow Canadians, happy Thanksgiving. I pulled Wild Rover out of the lake last weekend and found not to my surprise that once again I have lost the majority of the VC17 I painted onto the hull within 6 inches of the waterline. I originally brought the hull back to bare gel coat with a random orbital sander and sealed with 6 coats of Interprotect 2000. This was sanded flat and roughed up prior to the VC application. The Vc goes on as per the instructions but every year I loose that 6" or so. More where the water is turbulent. It's frustrating watching others pull boats with intact bottom paint, even those who clean their hulls every couple of weeks. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? This is all the more important as the zebra mussel infestation in Lake Winnipeg requires a good paint job. There were about a thousand of them on the little keel in front of my rudder which like the top 6" had lost its VC17 from the lower horizontal surface. Brent Driedger 27-5 Lake Winnipeg. Sent from my iPhone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- g
Re: Stus-List Rebuild suggestions for Atomic IV
Fix oil pan so you can change oilEasier. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Wally Kowal via CnC-List Date: 10-10-2015 16:19 (GMT-04:00) To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: Wally Kowal Subject: Stus-List Rebuild suggestions for Atomic IV We are pulling the A4 from our C&C 30 '73 tomorrow and my son is going to work on it over the winter for his term project in auto shop class. The motor gets light use in fresh water so I do not want to go with electronic ignition or other bells and whistles. The boat has little residual value despite the fact that it is structurally solid and a hell of a lot of fun to sail and cruise in, so I do not want to invest too much in the rebuild. What do you suggest replacing on it while we have it out? WallyWhistler IIC&C 30 '73 Hull #190Penetanguishene, ON ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt
If you have room 4 inch grinder with a good cutting disk. An option might be to just cut a slot in the bolt head and use a large slot screwdriver to turn it out. If that doest workYou can use the grinder to take the whole head of the bolt off. You can do the same with a Dremel but it will take a whole lot longer. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: robert via CnC-List Date: 05-10-2015 22:19 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert Subject: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt Josh: The head of the bolt is too close to the SS tube to get a grip on it with a pair of vice-grips.and the nut is 'recessed' so it doesn't turn when you tighten or loosen the bolt.can't get vice-grip or a wrench on it . Maybe try to cut the bolt head off is the viable option..I assume SS will be tough cut? If I try to cut it, what would be the tool of choice? Rob Abbott AZURA C&c 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2015-10-05 9:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: I've had some shocking success with vise-grips. Maybe try one on each side? Maybe you'll get lucky and the bolt will just break. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Oct 5, 2015 8:24 PM, "robert via CnC-List" wrote: I have a 'pebble in my shoe' kind of problem.a small SS nut and bolt on my bimini is seizeddo I need to remove it , nobut it should be able to come apart should it need to. I have applied PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, Liquid Wench.obviously, a product is not the answer. I tried today (thanks to Mike Hoyt) the 'tool' that can grip a 'stripped head'.all I was doing was stripping it further and giving my right hand a palm blister. I might be able to get a hack saw blade between the head of the bolt and the SS tubing but it is going to be a challenge. The bolt takes a 9 mm wrench, however, it is recessed so that getting a wrench on it with any force doesn't work either. I can't turn the bolt and I can't turn the nut. I could simply ignore the problem for now but someday I have to get this opened so I might as well not ignore the problem now. Any and all suggestions are greatly welcomed. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt
Likely you are down to grinder and cutting wheel. If you go straight down through the top you can likely split the nut. Or you can get a pupose built nut splitter from princess auto. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: robert via CnC-List Date: 05-10-2015 21:24 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert Subject: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt I have a 'pebble in my shoe' kind of problem.a small SS nut and bolt on my bimini is seizeddo I need to remove it , nobut it should be able to come apart should it need to. I have applied PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, Liquid Wench.obviously, a product is not the answer. I tried today (thanks to Mike Hoyt) the 'tool' that can grip a 'stripped head'.all I was doing was stripping it further and giving my right hand a palm blister. I might be able to get a hack saw blade between the head of the bolt and the SS tubing but it is going to be a challenge. The bolt takes a 9 mm wrench, however, it is recessed so that getting a wrench on it with any force doesn't work either. I can't turn the bolt and I can't turn the nut. I could simply ignore the problem for now but someday I have to get this opened so I might as well not ignore the problem now. Any and all suggestions are greatly welcomed. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sailing with main topping lift
That's what I do as well. Mostly all upside.Keeps the halyard away from the mast so no slapping or chaffing. Only downside is having to reconnect halyard when going sailing, but that's not a big deal since I have to be up there anyway to remove the sail cover. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: William Walker via CnC-List Date: 30-09-2015 08:59 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing with main topping lift Dennis, I too have garhauer rigid and it was the first upgrade made to my boat. Wouldn't be without it. Do you see any downside to using the main halyard as topping lift when sails down ? Done this for years without adverse effects that I can see. I removed topping lift. Bill Walker CnC 36 Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: A main topping lift serves two primary purposes: 1) opening the top of the main to create more twist and 2) holding the boom up when the mainsail is not hoisted. In my opinion, the former is more suited to a rigid boom vang or boomkicker. If either are properly installed, they should raise the boom enough to twist off the main. The big advantage of a rigid vang or boomkicker is that it will allow you to detach the topping lift and move it forward to the mast while sailing. Why? To prevent damage to your mainsail. Topping lifts, in particular, wire topping lifts, will abrade the stitching near the leech of your main. In severe cases, you might eject a batten as the stitching in a batten pocket gives out. Rope topping lifts don't abrade nearly as much but they will, over time, cause damage to the stitching. We never sail Touche' with the topping lift attached to the boom. It is always detached from the boom and carried forward to the mast. We have a Garhauer rigid boom vang. On Touche' the topping lift is only used to stabilize the boom when the mainsail is not hoisted. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starter
Do you have power at the panel...if warning lights/buzzer? If not then could be fuse on back of motor that gives power. Otherwise, possible ground at the transmission to enginebolt. Those are two simple but we'll hidden things to check. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List Date: 07-28-2015 11:51 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net Subject: Stus-List Starter I've noticed a few times this season that when i push the start button for my Yanmar 2GM20F nothing happens. When I push it a second time, the engine starts right up. What is the most efficient way of debugging this problem? Should I start up at the push button switch or at the solenoid? Thanks in advance, Mike Atacama, 33 mkii Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?
You have to live outside Canada.No such thing as cheap booze here. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List" Date: 06-18-2015 16:51 (GMT-04:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips? Lee, What is the cheap booze trick? I just use a metal winch handle. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List Date: Thu, Jun 18, 2015 11:18To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Lee Youngblood;Subject:Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?OK Martin,I’ll bite. . . Can you share a few offshore fishing tips?I know the cheap booze spray bottle trick, but you probably invented it with a sneeze to the gills. . . Thanks, Lee On Jun 18, 2015, at 10:25 AM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List wrote:> If the story teller was "Texas John" then it was the '77 delivery back from Hawaii following our 1st Transpac as a crew on the C&C 39 "Midnight Special".> > That delivery was one of my favorite of my 4 east bound Hawaii deliveries. Great weather and crew, reading in the cockpit by moon light, 2 weeks on one tack, getting ready for night watch by putting on a T-shirt, and teaching the crew the words to Jimmy Buffett's "Cheeseburger in Paradise". We hit the dock at Shilshole around dawn on a weekday. By 9AM we were loaded into my 1969 Ford Econoline van headed to one of the crew's lakeside houses for a party. It was a great year to be young, single, and hooked on offshore sailing.> > The one thing that would have improved it would be to know what I now know about offshore fishing under sail. Back in 77 no one on the crew knew how to catch tuna and mahi mahi. With what I learned on later Hawaii deliveries we could have been eating like kings most of the trip back to Seattle.> > Martin DeYoung> Calypso> 1971 C&C 43> Seattle___Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Starting problems
There is a fuse that sits on the back port quarter of the engine which the wiring to the panel goes to. Without it nothing works. My fuse Block cracked and was giving intermittent connection. Drove me nuts until I found the secret hiding spot for it. Rewired it to a circuit breaker and all has Ben good since. Good luck. Sent from my Samsung device Original message From: Sam Salter via CnC-List Date: 05-22-2015 22:15 (GMT-04:00) To: CnClist Cc: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting problems I had a similar problem 3 seasons ago. It was bad or corroded connections and wiring. 35 years is pretty good, but everything needs replacing eventually. I replaced all the major electrical lines around the batteries, main switch and engine with pre made auto lines from Canadian Tire (maybe Autozone in the US). Cost was about $65 CDN for my 26 No more problems since. sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListSent: Friday, May 22, 2015 7:58 AMTo: CnClistReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Dennis C.Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting problems Just a caution, a check of voltage or resistance is only a part of the puzzle. If the connection(s) on one or both ends are corroded, it may still pass a small amount of current to show voltage but may not pass enough current to support the user, i.e. pump or starter, etc. Connections must be clean to pass current. Dennis C. On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 8:00 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: Derek, Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and check each connection. Could also be your starter solenoid. Good luck. All the best, Edd ---Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseNCC-1701-BC&C 37+ | City Island, NYwww.StarshipSailing.com---914.332.4400 | Office914.774.9767 | Mobile---Sent via iPhone 6iPhone. iTypos. iApologize On May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List wrote: I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my C&C 30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops. This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full charge on both batteries. This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the engine started. I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and pressing the starter button got no reaction. I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for help. Thanks in advance Derek Kennedy TortugaC&C 30 mk1 Ballantyne’s Cove, NS ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com