Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Steve via CnC-List]

Hi Dave, I too would like to see some pictures of your windlass installation. I 
have a 37 as well and am considering putting one in. Thanks.

 

From: John Conklin via CnC-List  
Sent: March 16, 2021 9:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

 

Hi Dave  

I would like the pics on the windless

I have sister ship  and want to. Cruise more and back is shot so i have green 
light to get one :)

John Conklin 

S/V Halcyon

www.flirtingwithfire.net  

 





On Mar 15, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Pete, 

 

Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for the windless 
in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in anyway. 
Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.

 

I mounted a Lewmar windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought quite a 
bit about doing what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea pretty 
quickly.

 

I didn’t want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of our 
boats. Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to the 
existing system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so wanted to 
avoid that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery that far 
forward either.

 

I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port locker to 
the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with waterproof glands 
through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to port (next to existing 
battery switch location) at the base of the companionway steps. The solenoid 
for the control switches are mounted up under deck, to port in the anchor 
locker.

 

Just my $0.02.

 

Pictures of installation available upon request.

 

Best regards,

Dave Godwin

1982 C 37 - Ronin

1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana

 

P.S. Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the same fashion. 





On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Hey all,

As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a new 
AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty of room 
here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my homework on 
voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific experience on a 37 with 
a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears. 

My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, but 
I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any suggestions 
for adding an adequate vent to this area?

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

   Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Basic Solar Charging System?

[Steve via CnC-List]

I have a Xantrex charging system and the Blue Sea ACR switch for sale here:

https://daytona.craigslist.org/bpo/6055918718.html 
 

and here:

https://daytona.craigslist.org/bpo/6055917644.html 


Steve Roberts
Pearl, 80 CNC 36 CB
Palm Coast, FL


> On Mar 22, 2017, at 4:57 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Josh,
>  I don't use a 1-all-2 battery switch.  I hate them.  I use a 
> Blue Sea Systems Dual Battery Bank Management Panel 
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|229|2290006=151145 
> 
>  with an ACR.  The Blue Sea Battery Panel has separate switches for both 
> banks and a switch to combine the batteries.
> 
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 4:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Gary,
> 
> How do anticipate switching the house to start...and not having that option 
> in reverse?  With the typical OEM 1,All,2 switches we're stuck with batteries 
> in parallel.  With the Don Casey method either battery can be disconnected 
> and the loads cross-tied.
> 
> I think I recall the reason for putting the house as primary.  During the 
> bulk charge phase the ACR or echo-charge are disconnected which means that 
> the full charge current is applied to the primary battery.  If you had a 
> larger house and a tiny start battery and your alternator or other charge 
> source was sized for the larger house capacity to minimize charge duration 
> then you would be able to exceed the max charge current of your start battery 
> (if it was setup as the primary) until it was up to 13 and the ACR closed in. 
>  With a sufficiently large difference in size and a significantly discharged 
> house battery after the ACR closed in you could create a situation where the 
> start battery voltage would be pulled down enough to immediately reopen the 
> ACR.  None of this is an issue in Bruce's case since both batteries are the 
> same size.  He will also probably find that his alternator is attached to the 
> Off, 1,All,2 switch such that the alternator simply goes to whichever battery 
> is selected.
> 
> Josh 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Mar 22, 2017, 3:46 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Hi Josh,
>  I had read that the Primary battery should be the House battery but I 
> don't recall the article describing why.  However, with the House battery as 
> primary, you can always switch to it to start the engine should the Start 
> battery fail.  If the Start battery is Primary and fails, the ACR may not be 
> able to charge the House battery and you are out of options to start the 
> engine.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 2:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> You have two different load requirements.  First and most important is when 
> the boat is on the mooring.  You'll want the bilge pump to work 
> automatically.  That's all.  You're not running any other loads when you're 
> not there. 50w is sufficient to keep the batteries topped up and handle the 
> occasional bilge pump.  Be aware that 50w panels make ~4.2amps at 12v under 
> perfect conditions.  Aim the panel, clean, no shade, high noon, at the 
> equator, no atmospheric blockages.  My 100w panels rarely make more than 
> 6amps but are not meeting hardly any of the perfect conditions.  If we assume 
> that your 50w will produce 3amps and the batteries are in good condition and 
> the bilge only needs occasionally pumped (no major mast, deck, or shaft seal 
> leaks) then 3 amps will keep up... with little margin.  The solar may create 
> current for more than 8 hours and it may exceed 3amps, but for estimating 
> sake lets assume 24 Ah and then round down to 20Ah per day.
> 
> Your second load requirement is while sailing/cruising.  That's all the rest 
> of the electronics and navigation lights.  50w is a completely insufficient.  
> But... While you're "using" the boat you are also running the engine to get 
> in and out of port (or on and off the hook).  The alternator is making up for 
> the used energy at a minimum of 30amps.  This is usually very sufficient.  
> Your house battery is ~100Ah and you'll want to avoid discharging it more 
> than 50% (50Ah).  Less than 80% full is the only condition in which the 
> alternator will charge at full current so basically 30Ah (50% to 80%) or 1 
> hour of engine operation, which between coming in and going out is not hard 
> to imagine.
> 
> The controller you've selected is larger than necessary.  Your 50w panel is 
> NEVER going to produce more than 5 amps.  The BlueSolar is 3x larger than 
> needed.  I 

Stus-List Sails C 27

[Steve via CnC-List]

I have a 3 sails from my 1971 C 27 (lost in Hurricane Mathew).  The sails are 
in great shape.
Main and 140% genoa from The Sail Warehouse, new in 2003.
Like New Gennaker in sock w/launch bag bought from Atlantic Sail Traders of 
Sarasota in August 2015:
Catalog Number: 135-BSZZ-1352
Luff: 30' 1"
Leach: 27' 7"
Foot: 16' 3"
Head: 0' 0"
Price: $1095.00
#CSF30.1 STARCUT ASYMMETRICAL/CRUISING/POLELESS SPINNAKER, 0.75oz RIPSTOP POLY 
BY BACON SAILS. COLORS ARE RED, BLUE AND WHITE. COLOR CODED LEECH/LUFF TAPES. 
COMES IN AN ATN SNUFFER COMPLETE WITH HOISTIG LINES AND HARDWARE MAKING L.O.A. 
31' 10". NEW/UNUSED. BLUE BAG. 14 lbs.


Steve Roberts
C 36 CB
Pearl
Palm Coast, FL
former 27 owner___

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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

[Steve via CnC-List]

I use a block and tackle system, hauled up by the main halyard.  I can haul 
myself up from that in a bosun’s seat.  The lower block has a jam cleat so I am 
able to lock myself in and free my hands.  Doing this alone is not the best 
idea, much better (safer) to have someone below on a winch, rather than me 
pulling the line.  Also, having a second halyard as a safety is probably an 
even safer way of doing this.  I’ve done it solo for experience, you never know 
when you might have to do it alone.  

Steve Roberts
C 36 CB
Palm Coast, FL
former C 27 owner

> On Mar 16, 2017, at 11:01 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I need to replace the radar dome on my mizzenmast this weekend.  It's about 
> 22' up.  I'm in solid shape and can climb without a problem.  However, I have 
> never climbed a mast before, and I have to do this work alone.  I'm curious 
> if anyone here has suggestions for doing this safely.  Is it possible, or 
> should I call in a professional?  
> 
> I'll be down on the eastern shore of the Chesapeake, so I'm sure I could find 
> someone, but I'd rather learn to do this myself and I'd rather spend $$ on 
> mast climbing equipment than on a pro.  I'm sure this won't be the last time 
> I have to do this.
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.
> 
> Thanks so much.
> 
> Ryan
> Juniper - 1983 Pearson 424 Ketch 
> (Former 1976 C 30)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.

[Steve via CnC-List]

Steve Roberts
Pearl
1980 CNC 36 CB
Palm Coast, FL (Daytona Beach)

I am currently working towards re-stepping the mast on Pearl.  The mast was 
damaged when Hurricane Mathew came through.  She was on jack stands in a marina 
up North at the time, but fell over, her mast’s upper spreader hit another boat 
in the yard, damaging that boat as well as pushing in the spreader base and 
sheering the metal along one side.  The intermediate -4 rod shrouds were cut 
off just below the head by the insurance company's salvage people. The Navtang 
(through bolt?) was stripped in the process of removal.  I have repaired the 
mast at this point with a friend’s help.  We drilled and tapped a total of 8 
holes around the tear.  We then drilled larger holes to match in 1/4” steel 
through which we used threaded rod and double nuts to “pull” the dented mast 
out.  The double nuts were used so as to pull the aluminum up rather than the 
threaded rod down.  We used a scribe to approximate the curvature of the mast 
to get it as close as possible to original shape.  The final step was to have a 
TIG welder repair the tear and fill in the 8 holes plus the spreader base 6 
holes, which we then re drilled and tapped.  I’ve found a local machine shop to 
mill new through bolts in SS, so I’m replacing the upper and lower ones as 
well.  Hopefully I’ll get the rods re headed at Seco South in Largo, Florida 
next week and be ready to have the mast stepped.  In the meantime I’ve been 
busy getting familiar with this beautiful boat.  Last week I had to repair a 
hairline crack at the top of the holding tank.  It was my first attempt at 
plastic welding.  It worked great.  Harbor Freight $70.  You need 560 degrees 
BTW, for those who need to weld similar linear high density polyethylene Kracor 
tanks.  Still to go, Adler Barbour refrigeration unit.  I think it is the 
control module.  No LED lights, yet I have power.  All in all it’s been fun 
working on her these last 4 weeks now.  Can’t wait to get her sails up.  Any 
questions, suggestions, let me know.  Glad to have you guys.  Appreciate all 
the information.

> On Feb 14, 2017, at 10:46 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Steve, 
>  My name is also Steve, and I am also fixing up a 1980 C 36, so it 
> would help to reduce confusion if you would provide a little more 
> identification in your posts. Most of listers have adopted the convention of 
> signing with our boat model and location, or something along that line. I 
> look forward to comparing notes on our respective projects. If you have the 
> rig down, I would like to know what size thread is on the intermediate shroud 
> rigging screw. One of mine broke in hurricane Matthew. It looks like 5/16 
> from the deck, but I would like to know without having to climb up there.  
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C
> Merritt Island, FL 
> 
>  Steve via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> My newly acquired 1980 CNC 36 had the heads cut off of the intermediate 
> shrouds. In trying to get them re-headed I discovered I'm missing 1 ball from 
> under the cap. The through bolt needs replacing as well as possibly the caps. 
> Question is, did Navtec go to a different option because of the dissimilar 
> metals issue? Suggestions please?
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rod rigging.

[Steve via CnC-List]

My newly acquired 1980 CNC 36 had the heads cut off of the intermediate 
shrouds. In trying to get them re-headed I discovered I'm missing 1 ball from 
under the cap. The through bolt needs replacing as well as possibly the caps. 
Question is, did Navtec go to a different option because of the dissimilar 
metals issue? Suggestions please?
Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 13, 2017, at 7:56 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Steve,   Make sure that you take a good look at the knees which the shroud 
> and back stay chain plates attach.   These are a known weak spot on boats of 
> our vintage.About 9 years ago the tabbing on one of mine started 
> separating.  I was fortunate that I found it before a catastrophic failure.   
>  
> 
> About every 2-3 years I find that I have to snug up on some of the toe rail 
> fasteners.   Generally a 1 flat turn re-seals. 
> 
> Sail safe, 
> 
> Mike
> Virginia LEE.  93295
> 1978 C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, Va
> Sent from my iPad Mini
> 
>> On Feb 12, 2017, at 22:14, Steve via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Regarding recurring water in the bilge: I am busy going over everything on 
>> my newly acquired 1980 CNC 36.  My mast is off pending repairs to the 
>> rigging. I have checked and double checked water tanks (2), water lines, and 
>> keel bolts.  No water coming from them or any of the 7 through hull 
>> fittings.  After using a shop vac to remove any trace of water in the bilge 
>> I return the next day and continue to find about 1/2 gallon of water in the 
>> bilge.  I am now convinced that it is coming back from the manual bilge hose 
>> which outputs through a Y connection on the bilge pump output hose.  I 
>> evacuated that tonight.  We’ll see in the morning.  If I find any, it will 
>> be either salt or bleach.  That should help narrow it down, as I have bleach 
>> in the water tanks.  The holding tank is empty. Good thing for the taste 
>> test!
>> 
>>> On Feb 12, 2017, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello listers,
>>> 
>>> In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I, 
>>> after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey 
>>> from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!
>>> 
>>> The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina 
>>> near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for 
>>> her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip 
>>> adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.
>>> 
>>> One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in 
>>> the bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. 
>>> I've been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be 
>>> about 2-4 gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not 
>>> sure where the water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling 
>>> in the forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first 
>>> instinct is to have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and 
>>> stanchion bases while I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the 
>>> water ingress stops. Does that make sense? Is there a different, better 
>>> course of action I should take at this time? Does anyone know offhand what 
>>> size socket I'll need?
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>> Tom
>>> 
>>> ---
>>> Snow Goose
>>> C 35 Mk I 
>>> City Island, NY
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Steve via CnC-List]

Regarding recurring water in the bilge: I am busy going over everything on my 
newly acquired 1980 CNC 36.  My mast is off pending repairs to the rigging. I 
have checked and double checked water tanks (2), water lines, and keel bolts.  
No water coming from them or any of the 7 through hull fittings.  After using a 
shop vac to remove any trace of water in the bilge I return the next day and 
continue to find about 1/2 gallon of water in the bilge.  I am now convinced 
that it is coming back from the manual bilge hose which outputs through a Y 
connection on the bilge pump output hose.  I evacuated that tonight.  We’ll see 
in the morning.  If I find any, it will be either salt or bleach.  That should 
help narrow it down, as I have bleach in the water tanks.  The holding tank is 
empty. Good thing for the taste test!

> On Feb 12, 2017, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello listers,
> 
> In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I, 
> after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey 
> from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!
> 
> The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina 
> near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for 
> her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip 
> adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.
> 
> One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in the 
> bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. I've 
> been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be about 2-4 
> gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not sure where the 
> water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling in the 
> forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first instinct is 
> to have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and stanchion bases 
> while I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the water ingress 
> stops. Does that make sense? Is there a different, better course of action I 
> should take at this time? Does anyone know offhand what size socket I'll need?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom
> 
> ---
> Snow Goose
> C 35 Mk I 
> City Island, NY
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Cabin Sole replacement

[steve via CnC-List]

I acquired a 1984 CC 41 earlier this year that had a been on the hard for
a couple of years.  The boat's in pretty good shape and surveyed out
nicely.  However, it was left with standing water in the bilges.  The
freeze/thaw cycle completely destroyed the cabin sole so I needed to
replace it.

The shop just finished installing the new teak  holly marine grade plywood
sole and it looks pretty good.  Some gaps are wider than they should be and
the subfloor is pieced together poorly but, overall the sole really
improves the look of the cabin.

Now I'm looking at the bill - actually, choking on it.  The shop guy and I
apparently miscommunicated in a staggeringly significant manner.  I had
expected a bill of $4,100 which seemed high but, on the edge of reasonable
and, I just couldn't free up enough time to try the job myself. The actual
bill is for $9,600I could have freed up a lot more time at $9,600!!

So, I'm trying to find out if I just completely underestimated the work and
the cost is reasonable...or, if I'm getting totally and completely hosed.

I would love to hear opinions on this.  By the way, the cost of the wood
was about $700.  I don't know the cost of the varnish.

Steve Anderson
Shadow
CC 41
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Re: Stus-List Barient 19 winch.

[Steve via CnC-List]

I don't know how you get the line stripper off, but the winch body on the 18s 
is confined by a spring clip in a groove on the spindle shaft. The clip is like 
2 turns of a slinky. You have to pick out the top end with a small screwdriver 
or a knife, and then work the rest of it off bit by bit carefully so as not to 
damage it. Curved nose needle nose pliers may help.

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 3:43 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Barient 19 winch.


  How do I get the top off?


--


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