I have a Xantrex charging system and the Blue Sea ACR switch for sale here:

https://daytona.craigslist.org/bpo/6055918718.html 
<https://daytona.craigslist.org/bpo/6055918718.html> 

and here:

https://daytona.craigslist.org/bpo/6055917644.html 
<https://daytona.craigslist.org/bpo/6055917644.html>

Steve Roberts
Pearl, 80 CNC 36 CB
Palm Coast, FL


> On Mar 22, 2017, at 4:57 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Josh,
>      I don't use a 1-all-2 battery switch.  I hate them.  I use a 
> Blue Sea Systems Dual Battery Bank Management Panel 
> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290000|2290006&id=151145 
> <http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290000|2290006&id=151145>
>  with an ACR.  The Blue Sea Battery Panel has separate switches for both 
> banks and a switch to combine the batteries.
> 
> Gary
> 
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
> 
> 
> On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 4:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Gary,
> 
> How do anticipate switching the house to start...and not having that option 
> in reverse?  With the typical OEM 1,All,2 switches we're stuck with batteries 
> in parallel.  With the Don Casey method either battery can be disconnected 
> and the loads cross-tied.
> 
> I think I recall the reason for putting the house as primary.  During the 
> bulk charge phase the ACR or echo-charge are disconnected which means that 
> the full charge current is applied to the primary battery.  If you had a 
> larger house and a tiny start battery and your alternator or other charge 
> source was sized for the larger house capacity to minimize charge duration 
> then you would be able to exceed the max charge current of your start battery 
> (if it was setup as the primary) until it was up to 13 and the ACR closed in. 
>  With a sufficiently large difference in size and a significantly discharged 
> house battery after the ACR closed in you could create a situation where the 
> start battery voltage would be pulled down enough to immediately reopen the 
> ACR.  None of this is an issue in Bruce's case since both batteries are the 
> same size.  He will also probably find that his alternator is attached to the 
> Off, 1,All,2 switch such that the alternator simply goes to whichever battery 
> is selected.
> 
> Josh 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Mar 22, 2017, 3:46 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi Josh,
>      I had read that the Primary battery should be the House battery but I 
> don't recall the article describing why.  However, with the House battery as 
> primary, you can always switch to it to start the engine should the Start 
> battery fail.  If the Start battery is Primary and fails, the ACR may not be 
> able to charge the House battery and you are out of options to start the 
> engine.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
> 
> 
> On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 2:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> You have two different load requirements.  First and most important is when 
> the boat is on the mooring.  You'll want the bilge pump to work 
> automatically.  That's all.  You're not running any other loads when you're 
> not there. 50w is sufficient to keep the batteries topped up and handle the 
> occasional bilge pump.  Be aware that 50w panels make ~4.2amps at 12v under 
> perfect conditions.  Aim the panel, clean, no shade, high noon, at the 
> equator, no atmospheric blockages.  My 100w panels rarely make more than 
> 6amps but are not meeting hardly any of the perfect conditions.  If we assume 
> that your 50w will produce 3amps and the batteries are in good condition and 
> the bilge only needs occasionally pumped (no major mast, deck, or shaft seal 
> leaks) then 3 amps will keep up... with little margin.  The solar may create 
> current for more than 8 hours and it may exceed 3amps, but for estimating 
> sake lets assume 24 Ah and then round down to 20Ah per day.
> 
> Your second load requirement is while sailing/cruising.  That's all the rest 
> of the electronics and navigation lights.  50w is a completely insufficient.  
> But... While you're "using" the boat you are also running the engine to get 
> in and out of port (or on and off the hook).  The alternator is making up for 
> the used energy at a minimum of 30amps.  This is usually very sufficient.  
> Your house battery is ~100Ah and you'll want to avoid discharging it more 
> than 50% (50Ah).  Less than 80% full is the only condition in which the 
> alternator will charge at full current so basically 30Ah (50% to 80%) or 1 
> hour of engine operation, which between coming in and going out is not hard 
> to imagine.
> 
> The controller you've selected is larger than necessary.  Your 50w panel is 
> NEVER going to produce more than 5 amps.  The BlueSolar is 3x larger than 
> needed.  I would suggest looking a Genasun gv-4.  It is appropriately sized 
> for your panel. 
> https://genasun.com/all-products/solar-charge-controllers/for-lead/gv-4-pb-4a-solar-charge-controller/
>  
> <https://genasun.com/all-products/solar-charge-controllers/for-lead/gv-4-pb-4a-solar-charge-controller/>
> 
> Genasun has a design heritage from MIT's solar car competition.  The gv-4 
> doesn't use electrolitic capacitors and is built to be marine grade. This 
> makes it ultra reliable.
> 
> Many of the listers like the echo-charge.  I'm sure it is a fine product but 
> I prefer an ACR. The echo-charge is only capable of charging at 15amps max.  
> An ACR will charge at full charge current.  The solar, ACR, alternator, and 
> battery charger should all be attached to the starting battery.  Once the 
> starting battery has reached its 80% full or greater voltage (~13.3v) the ACR 
> will CONNECT the house battery in parallel with the start battery and 
> continue to charge.  This ensures that the most important battery gets 
> charged first and then they both get topped up and maintained equally.  The 
> only caveat to the ACR being a "better" option is if you are using different 
> battery chemistries for start and house.  But if that was the case then you'd 
> also have to have special charge controllers for your alternator, solar and 
> battery charger.  Based on your description I have assumed that you are using 
> standard lead-acid batteries.
> 
> All of this leaves the DC system vulnerable to a failure of the starting 
> battery.  Under this setup there is no way to charge the house without the 
> starting battery and there is probably not already a good way of cross 
> connecting the house and start.  The "All" position of Off,1,All,2 switches 
> just connects both batteries together. In a failed battery situation this 
> will draw down and possibly drain the house battery.  Don Casey makes a good 
> argument for eliminating the Off,1,All,2 switches which are so popular.  He 
> suggests single pole, single throw disconnect switches arranged to separate 
> each battery from their "bus" individually. Then you would use another 
> disconnect switch to cross-tie the busses.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00445KFZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eoQ0ybTYDYCR2 
> <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00445KFZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eoQ0ybTYDYCR2>
>  In the event of a failure of either your house or starting battery you could 
> use the switches to align your batteries to the appropriate loads.  IMO, In 
> this setup you would want your ACR, alternator, charger, and solar all 
> attached to the starting battery BUS instead of the battery itself.  Because 
> of the switch setup when/if your start battery failed you would open the 
> start battery disconnect and close the cross tie.  All of the charging 
> circuits would now be connected to the house battery with no need to consider 
> how it would be charged.
> 
> There is some disagreement about which battery should be the "primary" and 
> which should be "secondary".  Primary being where all the charging sources 
> come in, secondary being the battery which gets charged by the echo-charge or 
> ACR.  Above all, I want my starting battery to get charged.  In my mind it is 
> always first.  In the attached picture, Don Casey has drawn what I described. 
>  The picture I attached shows the starting battery as the secondary and the 
> alternator being directly tied to the house battery - not on a switch.  This 
> avoids blowing the alternator diodes should a switch be inadvertently opened 
> during engine operation but doesn't solve the reliability problem in the case 
> of a primary battery failure.  
> 
> I'm not sure that it significantly matters but hopefully someone will chime 
> in on the merits of having the house battery as the "primary" and hopefully 
> also the merits of having the alternator directly connected.
> 
> Good luck, 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Mar 22, 2017 11:23 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> On our 27 MKIII we mounted a semi flexible pane that could be walked on to 
> the sliding hatch and tied in a small charge controller and battery combiner. 
>  We kept 2 series 24s and a series 27 charged on a mooring in Chicago for 10 
> years this way.  It kept the panel out of the way and we just tied the boom 
> off to one side when we left the boat.
> 
> Kindest Regards,
> 
> Bruce
> 847.404.5092 <tel:(847)%20404-5092>
> 
> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> 
> On Mar 22, 2017, at 10:37 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Tom,
>> 
>> Sounds like a good system. The only different thing I have in my setup is a 
>> Blue Seas ACR instead of the Echo charger. See: 
>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A
>>  
>> <https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A>
>>  
>> 
>> Works VERY well. 
>> 
>> Another factor is the placement of the solar panel. A shadow from a boom 
>> will give you a significant drop in volts. 
>> 
>> Smith sailing to Snow Goose! Rest in Peace Artie Karpf. 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>      
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 22, 2017, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Listers,
>>> 
>>> Snow Goose spent the last 20 years docked in a slip with shore power, and 
>>> I'm moving her to a mooring. I plan on adding a solar system to recharge my 
>>> batteries during the week.
>>> 
>>> The boat will primarily be raced/daysailed, and occasionally overnighted, 
>>> on the weekends. My power draws are an automatic bilge pump, sailing 
>>> instruments, a chart plotter, and the freshwater tank pressure pump. I have 
>>> two 79AH Group 24 AGM batteries onboard, one in each bank, wired to a 4 way 
>>> selector switch.
>>> 
>>> My plan is to install a 50W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Panel connected to a 
>>> BlueSolar MPPT 75/15 controller, and connect them to the house battery. I 
>>> am planning on installing a Xantrex Echo Charger between the house battery 
>>> and the starter battery. 
>>> 
>>> Does this system make sense? I've read mixed reviews about the Echo 
>>> Charger, but I can't find a better way of charging two batteries from a 
>>> single panel/MPPT controller. Is there a different setup that makes more 
>>> sense? 
>>> 
>>> Thanks and best,
>>> Tom
>>> 
>>>  ---
>>> Snow Goose
>>> C&C 35 Mk I
>>> City Island, NY
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
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