Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks All for the tips

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole


Mike,
I did the sole replacement two years ago on my 36.  Some thoughts.
  I used router with round over bit on back side to get proper radius.
  I epoxied both sides, using foam roller.  Slow cure west system.  Good base.
  I overdrilled fastener holes and filled with thickened epoxy, then redrilled. 
 These holes are where water intrusion frequently starts.
  I varnished 8 coats, light sanding between.  Again, foam roller worked well.
  Though I used the old floor as template, when epoxy and varnish added a 
couple sections were tight, though they fit, they squeaked a bit and I ended up 
sanding and redoing several edges.  Leaves enough room for the finishes you 
choose.
   I think your work space needs some heat.  I wouldn't varnish at 50 degrees.  
Don't forget the boards may be colder than that if temps dip at times in that 
space.
   Good luck.  Makes boat look new.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!

I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently

My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole

Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)

Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.

Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I like the idea of gluing a 1/2" strip of solid teak across the grain on
the edges. It will help keep the veneer from chipping. I hope to retrofit
mine that way this year.
You can thin the epoxy with acetone and put it on in thin coats.
I guess things will work OK in the cold garage, but I would bring them into
the living room for all your winter refinishing. :)

Cheers
Andy
C 40
Peregrine
Newport, RI

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and
> holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully
> especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
>
>
>
> I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and
> Holly and noted a few things that time that I may do differently
>
>
>
> My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my
> garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I
> also plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the
> niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and
> the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be
> up to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole
>
>
>
> Epoxy on wood:
>
> The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.
> I believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.
> I have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again
> start with the underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the
> levelling properties and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan
> to use West with the slow hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks
> good I will then put one coat on top of sole as a base before the varnish.
> It is my intention to do this over the winter in my garage which is in the
> basement of my house but not heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10
> degrees Celcius (50F)
>
>
>
> Varnish over epoxy:
>
> On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of
> several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the
> two main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I
> cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy
> under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or
> damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the
> varnish and even the wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its
> way into the finish from this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang
> on but the damage, although superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the
> epoxy layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this
> discolouration in the event a wet item spends significant time on the
> sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry inside but some
> water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
>
>
>
> Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there
> any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a
> relatively simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very
> obvious for years to come …
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
___

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I refinished mine several years ago and also had trouble getting the epoxy
to flow.  I didn't thin it.  Now I know.

I think the clear hardener only comes in 1 "speed".  For the visible
surface, you want the clear.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:51 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I like the idea of gluing a 1/2" strip of solid teak across the grain on
> the edges. It will help keep the veneer from chipping. I hope to retrofit
> mine that way this year.
> You can thin the epoxy with acetone and put it on in thin coats.
> I guess things will work OK in the cold garage, but I would bring them
> into the living room for all your winter refinishing. :)
>
> Cheers
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> Newport, RI
>
> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and
>> holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully
>> especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
>>
>>
>>
>> I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and
>> Holly and noted a few things that time that I may do differently
>>
>>
>>
>> My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my
>> garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I
>> also plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the
>> niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and
>> the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be
>> up to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole
>>
>>
>>
>> Epoxy on wood:
>>
>> The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow
>> evenly.  I believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow
>> hardener.  I have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so
>> will again start with the underside to see how this works out.  Any
>> comments on the levelling properties and techniques with epoxy would be
>> welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow hardener.   If the epoxy on the
>> underside looks good I will then put one coat on top of sole as a base
>> before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this over the winter in my
>> garage which is in the basement of my house but not heated.  Temperatures
>> are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
>>
>>
>>
>> Varnish over epoxy:
>>
>> On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised
>> of several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between
>> the two main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when
>> I cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy
>> under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or
>> damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the
>> varnish and even the wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its
>> way into the finish from this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang
>> on but the damage, although superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the
>> epoxy layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this
>> discolouration in the event a wet item spends significant time on the
>> sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry inside but some
>> water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
>>
>>
>>
>> Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are
>> there any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a
>> relatively simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very
>> obvious for years to come …
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Mike,
 I did the sole replacement two years ago on my 36.  Some thoughts.
  I used router with round over bit on back side to get proper radius.
  I epoxied both sides, using foam roller.  Slow cure west system.  Good base. 
  I overdrilled fastener holes and filled with thickened epoxy, then redrilled. 
 These holes are where water intrusion frequently starts.
  I varnished 8 coats, light sanding between.  Again, foam roller worked well.
  Though I used the old floor as template, when epoxy and varnish added a 
couple sections were tight, though they fit, they squeaked a bit and I ended up 
sanding and redoing several edges.  Leaves enough room for the finishes you 
choose.
   I think your work space needs some heat.  I wouldn't varnish at 50 degrees.  
Don't forget the boards may be colder than that if temps dip at times in that 
space.   
   Good luck.  Makes boat look new.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:

I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!

 

I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently

 

My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole

 

Epoxy on wood:

The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)

 

Varnish over epoxy:

On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.

 

Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

 

___ Email address: 
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-- go to the bottom of page at: 
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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of 
the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
 
FWIW
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole



I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
 
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently
 
My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole
 
Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
 
Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
 
Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
 

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of 
the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
 
FWIW
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole



I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
 
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently
 
My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole
 
Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
 
Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
 
Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
 

___

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of 
the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
 
FWIW
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole



I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and holly 
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully especially since 
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
 
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and 
noted a few things that time that I may do differently
 
My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also 
plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the niches are 
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the 
sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up to 6 coats of 
epiphanes on the top of the sole
 
Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I have 
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the 
underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling properties 
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West with the slow 
hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat 
on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my intention to do this 
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not 
heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
 
Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two 
main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out 
the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy under the 
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and 
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the 
wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from 
this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although 
superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats 
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends 
significant time on the sole.  Any comments on this?  Persistence is quite dry 
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
 
Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any 
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a relatively 
simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious for years to 
come …
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
 

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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”:

http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
> pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
> recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
> power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
> sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside of 
> the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>  
> FWIW
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> North Carolina
>  
> cenel...@aol.com 
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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Mike,

For my second time rebuilding my cabin sole I used the new Awlwood product. It 
needs fewer coats but is a bit more expensive. I like it but it is more for use 
on exterior wood as it resists UV better. I was planning on using their Satin 
finish over the gloss undercoats but got tired of waiting for the product to 
come on the market. I used two coats of a satin varnish to get a rubbed effect. 

The first time I rebuilt the cabin sole I used West System on the bare wood but 
I don't now feel that is necessary. 

 I, like others, used the old delaminating originals as templates and paid a 
price when routing. And I used standard issue West epoxy for the sides and 
back. I will drill-and-fill prior to attaching the new pieces. Sometime in the 
distant future...

Pics: 
http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2015-05-18T15:48:00-07:00=7=7=false

Best,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 26, 2016, at 16:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Probably Smiths penetrating epoxy.  http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
>> pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
>> recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
>> power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
>> sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside 
>> of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>>  
>> FWIW
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> North Carolina
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
>> Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm
>> Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole
>> 
>> I am replacing the original sole on Persistence.  It was ¾ inch teak and 
>> holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet.  Thankfully 
>> especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
>>  
>> I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly 
>> and noted a few things that time that I may do differently
>>  
>> My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my 
>> garage already.  It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I 
>> also plan to do with the replacement.  Once cut out the piece and all the 
>> niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and 
>> the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy.  Following that there will be up 
>> to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole
>>  
>> Epoxy on wood:
>> The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly.  I 
>> believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener.  I 
>> have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start 
>> with the underside to see how this works out.  Any comments on the levelling 
>> properties and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed.  I plan to use West 
>> with the slow hardener.   If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will 
>> then put one coat on top of sole as a base before the varnish.  It is my 
>> intention to do this over the winter in my garage which is in the basement 
>> of my house but not heated.  Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees 
>> Celcius (50F)
>>  
>> Varnish over epoxy:
>> On the J27 I made one small mistake.  The sole in the J27 was comprised of 
>> several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the 
>> two main halves.  It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I 
>> cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment.  With no epoxy 
>> under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or 
>> damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the 
>> varnish and even the wood itself.  On top of that some mildew worked its way 
>> into the finish from this.  After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on 
>> but the damage, although superficial, was done.  Am assuming that the epoxy 
>> layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this discolouration in 
>> the event a wet item spends significant time on the sole.  Any comments on 
>> this?  Persistence is quite dry inside but some water does come down the 
>> mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
>>  
>> Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there 
>> any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project?  It seems a 
>> relatively simple project but also one where  a misstep will be very obvious 
>> for years to come …
>>  
>> Mike
>> Persistence
>> Halifax
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> 

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

Yes, that's it. Worked fine for me on my 'under sole'.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
North Carolina

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”:
> 
> http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in 
>> pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is 
>> recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating 
>> power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the 
>> sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside 
>> of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>>  
>> FWIW
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> North Carolina
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

[Monty Schumpert via CnC-List]

I refinished the cabin sole on my 34+ several years ago and used multiple
coats of Smith's CPES - Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer on the top
side, followed by about 6 coats of Epifanes two- part polyurethane.  I have
been very pleased with the result which is a glossy finish.  Since I
stripped and sanded the old floor boards your surface will be a little
different from mine, but the CPES is applied until the pores of the wood
are filled and level. The CPES is very thin and goes on very easily. I
agree with someone who recommended a temperature warmer than 50 degrees.
It's a big job, but you'll be pleased with the result and all the
compliments.  Good luck!

Monty
Scandia
1991 C 34+
Annapolis, MD

On Tuesday, January 26, 2016, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, that's it. Worked fine for me on my 'under sole'.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> North Carolina
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”:
>
> http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available
> in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like
> that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its
> penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the
> underside of the sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not
> for the topside of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed.
>
> FWIW
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> North Carolina
>
> cenel...@aol.com 
>
>
> ___
>
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> 
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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