Mike,
I did the sole replacement two years ago on my 36. Some thoughts.
I used router with round over bit on back side to get proper radius.
I epoxied both sides, using foam roller. Slow cure west system. Good base.
I overdrilled fastener holes and filled with thickened epoxy, then redrilled.
These holes are where water intrusion frequently starts.
I varnished 8 coats, light sanding between. Again, foam roller worked well.
Though I used the old floor as template, when epoxy and varnish added a
couple sections were tight, though they fit, they squeaked a bit and I ended up
sanding and redoing several edges. Leaves enough room for the finishes you
choose.
I think your work space needs some heat. I wouldn't varnish at 50 degrees.
Don't forget the boards may be colder than that if temps dip at times in that
space.
Good luck. Makes boat look new.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
I am replacing the original sole on Persistence. It was ¾ inch teak and holly
and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet. Thankfully especially since
the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes!
I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly and
noted a few things that time that I may do differently
My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my
garage already. It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I also
plan to do with the replacement. Once cut out the piece and all the niches are
cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and the top of the
sole with one coat of epoxy. Following that there will be up to 6 coats of
epiphanes on the top of the sole
Epoxy on wood:
The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly. I
believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener. I have
never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start with the
underside to see how this works out. Any comments on the levelling properties
and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed. I plan to use West with the slow
hardener. If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will then put one coat
on top of sole as a base before the varnish. It is my intention to do this
over the winter in my garage which is in the basement of my house but not
heated. Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees Celcius (50F)
Varnish over epoxy:
On the J27 I made one small mistake. The sole in the J27 was comprised of
several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the two
main halves. It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I cut out
the panel that is forward near head compartment. With no epoxy under the
varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or damp spin and
jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the varnish and even the
wood itself. On top of that some mildew worked its way into the finish from
this. After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on but the damage, although
superficial, was done. Am assuming that the epoxy layer beneath several coats
of varnish will prevent this discolouration in the event a wet item spends
significant time on the sole. Any comments on this? Persistence is quite dry
inside but some water does come down the mast and pool occasionally on the sole.
Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there any
other pearls of wisdom before I start this project? It seems a relatively
simple project but also one where a misstep will be very obvious for years to
come …
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
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