Mike, For my second time rebuilding my cabin sole I used the new Awlwood product. It needs fewer coats but is a bit more expensive. I like it but it is more for use on exterior wood as it resists UV better. I was planning on using their Satin finish over the gloss undercoats but got tired of waiting for the product to come on the market. I used two coats of a satin varnish to get a rubbed effect.
The first time I rebuilt the cabin sole I used West System on the bare wood but I don't now feel that is necessary. I, like others, used the old delaminating originals as templates and paid a price when routing. And I used standard issue West epoxy for the sides and back. I will drill-and-fill prior to attaching the new pieces. Sometime in the distant future... Pics: http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2015-05-18T15:48:00-07:00&max-results=7&start=7&by-date=false Best, Dave 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Sent from my iPad > On Jan 26, 2016, at 16:11, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Probably Smiths penetrating epoxy. http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/ > > Dennis C. > >> On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 1:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in >> pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is >> recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating >> power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside of the >> sole--a few coats and the underside was sealed. It was not for the topside >> of the sole but for fresh wood that needed sealed. >> >> FWIW >> >> Charlie Nelson >> Water Phantom >> North Carolina >> >> cenel...@aol.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com> >> Sent: Tue, Jan 26, 2016 2:41 pm >> Subject: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole >> >> I am replacing the original sole on Persistence. It was ¾ inch teak and >> holly and thankfully can all be done with one 4x8 sheet. Thankfully >> especially since the one sheet I purchased is $609 CAD after taxes! >> >> I have already replaced the sole in the past on our J27 also teak and Holly >> and noted a few things that time that I may do differently >> >> My plan is to use the old sole as a template and thankfully that is in my >> garage already. It was screwed in place with countersunk screws which I >> also plan to do with the replacement. Once cut out the piece and all the >> niches are cut out for any hardware I hope to coat both the underside and >> the top of the sole with one coat of epoxy. Following that there will be up >> to 6 coats of epiphanes on the top of the sole >> >> Epoxy on wood: >> The last time I only coated the underside becuase it did not flow evenly. I >> believe this is because I used Fast Hardener rather than slow hardener. I >> have never had much luck with the flow of epoxy on wood so will again start >> with the underside to see how this works out. Any comments on the levelling >> properties and techniques with epoxy would be welcomed. I plan to use West >> with the slow hardener. If the epoxy on the underside looks good I will >> then put one coat on top of sole as a base before the varnish. It is my >> intention to do this over the winter in my garage which is in the basement >> of my house but not heated. Temperatures are typically around 10 degrees >> Celcius (50F) >> >> Varnish over epoxy: >> On the J27 I made one small mistake. The sole in the J27 was comprised of >> several panels and I did not think to line up the holly stripes between the >> two main halves. It bothered only me but will not occur this time when I >> cut out the panel that is forward near head compartment. With no epoxy >> under the varnish and a wet boat like the J27 I found that stowing wet or >> damp spin and jib sheets on the sole in the head area discoloured the >> varnish and even the wood itself. On top of that some mildew worked its way >> into the finish from this. After year one the sheets had hooks to hang on >> but the damage, although superficial, was done. Am assuming that the epoxy >> layer beneath several coats of varnish will prevent this discolouration in >> the event a wet item spends significant time on the sole. Any comments on >> this? Persistence is quite dry inside but some water does come down the >> mast and pool occasionally on the sole. >> >> Aside from measure many times and then cut once ($609 per sheet) are there >> any other pearls of wisdom before I start this project? It seems a >> relatively simple project but also one where a misstep will be very obvious >> for years to come … >> >> Mike >> Persistence >> Halifax >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
_______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
