Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-13 Thread David via CnC-List 
Chuck...I may have a spare fitting with a cap you can have.   

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2016 11:33:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net

I finally was able to remove the waste deck fitting cap by drilling the holes 
for the deck fitting tool  deeper so that the tool would sit flush on the deck 
fitting with the pins completely engaged in the holes.   Using a vice grip as 
an extension on the spanner, I was able to free up the cap.Does anyone know who 
was the source of the deck fittings for 1983 era Rhode Island built boats?  I 
may want to have a spare cap for this deck fill since when I drilled the holes 
deeper, there isn’t much wall thickness remaining where the tool goes into the 
cap.The fitting and cap are chrome over bronze and the cap is nominally 2 3/8” 
diameter.Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 LF 35Padanaram, MAFrom: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma Also, a good spanner wrench 
(and a hammer) may do the trick...

Bob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)Annapolis, MD (presently in 
Baltimore)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail: dainyr...@icloud.com
On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit 
the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate 
open. I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell 
from the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the 
vent.Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time 
to replace it anyway.AndyC 40Peregrine On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Suggestions needed:I 
purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a number of 
years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional 
and replaced items that needed updates.  So, after several outings on the boat, 
it was determined that it may be a good idea to pump out the holding tank to 
reduce a growing odor in the boat.Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my 
systems review was the waste fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I 
have determined has corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve 
tried several deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an 
extension to the tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch 
with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I 
just can get enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck 
fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper? 
My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma begins- 
 Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of 
methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a 
butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission?   I’ve 
generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by 
dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze 
and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in 
the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the most 
stubborn deck fills?I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting 
flange, so I have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, 
or if it is simply screwed in place?While I don’t think the tank is anywhere 
near full, I’d prefer not to spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like 
a dog kennel so whatever help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.Chuck 
GilchrestHalf Magic1983 LF 35Padanaram, MA 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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-- Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-13 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
I finally was able to remove the waste deck fitting cap by drilling the holes 
for the deck fitting tool  deeper so that the tool would sit flush on the deck 
fitting with the pins completely engaged in the holes.   Using a vice grip as 
an extension on the spanner, I was able to free up the cap.

Does anyone know who was the source of the deck fittings for 1983 era Rhode 
Island built boats?  I may want to have a spare cap for this deck fill since 
when I drilled the holes deeper, there isn’t much wall thickness remaining 
where the tool goes into the cap.

The fitting and cap are chrome over bronze and the cap is nominally 2 3/8” 
diameter.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick...

Bob Boyer

s/v Rainy Days

C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)

Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com> 

email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> 


On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the 
holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate open. 

I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from the 
tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.

Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to 
replace it anyway.

Andy

C 40

Peregrine

 

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Suggestions needed:

I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a number 
of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional 
and replaced items that needed updates.  

So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good 
idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.

Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste 
fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded 
itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several deck keys and 
tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an 
application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet 
to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get enough purchase on 
the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only 
several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?

 

My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma begins- 
 Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of 
methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a 
butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission?   I’ve 
generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by 
dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze 
and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in 
the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the most 
stubborn deck fills?

I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no 
idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply 
screwed in place?

While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the 
entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out 
there, I’m open to suggestions.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




-- 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
I have the units that take a winch handle and like them.  They are made of 
aluminum and have O-rings.  I put a light coating of petroleum jelly on the 
threads and O-rings to prevent seizing.

 

Has anyone found a source for spare caps?  I keep a 1-1/2” PVC pipe plug as an 
emergency spare.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 6:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large
enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to
the edge including into the threads at a location that
is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original
holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer.

At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the
group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the
key?

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Love the ones that take winch handles - but I haven't dropped a handle in
the drink yet.

Joel

On Monday, June 6, 2016, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
wrote:

> As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large
> enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to
> the edge including into the threads at a location that
> is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original
> holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer.
>
> At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the
> group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the
> key?
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
At some point you may apply so much torque that you shear off the existing
screws holding the fitting to the deck.  Beware!

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 13:43
To: CNC CNC <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David <davidrisc...@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

FWIW:

Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster?

Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose?

Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large
lever to persuade it off?

Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the
whole dang thing out.  Of course that necessitates you replacing the whole
hose.   Not a bad thing (especially when I am not the one doing it!).

Good luck.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Michael Brown via CnC-List 
As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large
enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to
the edge including into the threads at a location that
is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original
holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer.

At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the
group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the
key?

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List 
Sea Foam Deep Creep...good stuff!

Harry
Sent from my iPhone 7 beta

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 13:59, John Pennie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> WD40?

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread John Pennie via CnC-List 
WD40?

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 1:43 PM, David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> FWIW:
> 
> Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster?
> 
> Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose?
> 
> Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large 
> lever to persuade it off?
> 
> Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the 
> whole dang thing out.  Of course that necessitates you replacing the whole 
> hose.   Not a bad thing (especially when I am not the one doing it!).
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:15:20 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> CC: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
> 
> Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick...
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/>
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>
> 
> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the 
> holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate 
> open. 
> I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from 
> the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.
> Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to 
> replace it anyway.
> 
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Suggestions needed:
> I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a 
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything 
> functional and replaced items that needed updates.  
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a 
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste 
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded 
> itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several deck keys and 
> tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an 
> application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped 
> mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get enough 
> purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as 
> they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>  
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma 
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the 
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the boat 
> up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into 
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free 
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both 
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the 
> corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super 
> tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have 
> no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is 
> simply screwed in place?
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend 
> the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is 
> out there, I’m open to suggestions.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> <http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/>
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like

Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread David via CnC-List 
FWIW:

Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster?

Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose?

Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large lever 
to persuade it off?

Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the 
whole dang thing out.  Of course that necessitates you replacing the whole 
hose.   Not a bad thing (especially when I am not the one doing it!).

Good luck.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:15:20 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dainyr...@icloud.com

Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick...

Bob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)Annapolis, MD (presently in 
Baltimore)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail: dainyr...@icloud.com
On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the 
holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate open. 
I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from the 
tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.
Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to 
replace it anyway.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Suggestions needed:I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been 
“sitting” for a number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to 
get everything functional and replaced items that needed updates.  So, after 
several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good idea to 
pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.Well the one 
thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste fitting at the 
deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded itself closed 
over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several deck keys and tools (also 
using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an application of 
liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free 
the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the 
tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep.  
Should I drill the holes deeper? My next approach is going to involve heat, but 
here’s where the dilemma begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something 
that may ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow 
myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating 
it into submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free 
corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear 
to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the 
corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super 
tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?I also haven’t found below 
deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no idea if it is through 
bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply screwed in place?While I 
don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the entire 
summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out there, 
I’m open to suggestions.Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983 LF 35Padanaram, MA 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick...

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the 
> holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate 
> open. 
> I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from 
> the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.
> Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to 
> replace it anyway.
> 
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
>> On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Suggestions needed:
>> 
>> I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a 
>> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything 
>> functional and replaced items that needed updates. 
>> 
>> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a 
>> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
>> 
>> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste 
>> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has 
>> corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several 
>> deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the 
>> tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic 
>> tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get 
>> enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting 
>> lid as they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma 
>> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the 
>> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the 
>> boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into 
>> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free 
>> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both 
>> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to 
>> the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a 
>> “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
>> 
>> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have 
>> no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is 
>> simply screwed in place?
>> 
>> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend 
>> the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help 
>> is out there, I’m open to suggestions.
>> 
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 
>> Half Magic
>> 
>> 1983 LF 35
>> 
>> Padanaram, MA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett Ave
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> phone  +401 965 5260
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
On my Landfall 38, most of the fill (and the pump out) connections were simply 
screwed into the outer skin and butyl tape was used between the fitting and the 
deck.  The trouble with just removing the fitting is that the hose is probably 
still attached (this is another challenging problem--getting the hose off the 
fitting).

There is a rubber o-ring in the lid too.  Heat may make this mess worse.

You may have a lister help you find the underside of the fitting and just 
remove it and replace it.  (Mine is in a locker by my navigation station.)

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 6, 2016, at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Suggestions needed:
> I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a 
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything 
> functional and replaced items that needed updates. 
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a 
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste 
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded 
> itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several deck keys and 
> tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an 
> application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped 
> mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get enough 
> purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as 
> they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>  
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma 
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the 
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the boat 
> up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into 
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free 
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both 
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the 
> corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super 
> tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have 
> no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is 
> simply screwed in place?
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend 
> the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is 
> out there, I’m open to suggestions.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
If it's that corroded I would just pull it and replace it (or work on
reconditioning it once you have it out).

Pulling the deck fills was a recommended survey item on my boat anyway
because they tend to leak after 30+ years. They're in cored sections of the
deck, so leaking deck fills isn't good.

The deck fill can be removed pretty easily if you can access the underside.
There must be some way for you to get at the hose from underneath and pull
it off. Then you just have to remove the 3 screws or thrubolts on the fill.
(most of my deck fills were screwed into the deck rather than thrubolted).
Then when you remove it you can inspect the coring, reseal it (butyl tape),
and heat it all you want to get the cap free.

I don't think heat has any risk of exploding methane though. If your
holding tank's air vent hose isn't clogged, most gases would go out that
way. Even if that's clogged, I'm assuming you haven't been using it a ton
in the last week? Older gases in the tank would've dissipated over time.

-Patrick
1984 C LF38

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 8:19 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> From: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 10:57:17 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
>
> Suggestions needed:
>
> I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
> functional and replaced items that needed updates.
>
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
>
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has
> corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several
> deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the
> tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic
> tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get
> enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting
> lid as they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>
>
>
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the
> boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to
> the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a
> “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
>
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I
> have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it
> is simply screwed in place?
>
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to
> spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever
> help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread robert via CnC-List 

Chuck:

You can try a homemade solution of 50%-50% power steering fluid and 
acetone..apply with an eye dropper or dab carefully with a 
Q-tip..careful not to get the solution on the deck as the acetone 
will be destructive.


I have successfully used this solution in the home, on my car and the 
boat to free up seized parts.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2016-06-06 11:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:


Suggestions needed:

I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for 
a number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get 
everything functional and replaced items that needed updates.


So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may 
be a good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor 
in the boat.


Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the 
waste fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined 
has corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried 
several deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an 
extension to the tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a 
punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  
No luck.  I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the tool into 
the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep.  
Should I drill the holes deeper?


My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the 
dilemma begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may 
ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow 
myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before 
beating it into submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with 
applying heat to free corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the 
fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the 
bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in the 
tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the 
most stubborn deck fills?


I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so 
I have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or 
if it is simply screwed in place?


While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to 
spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so 
whatever help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.


Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Thank you Joel,

My deck fitting is on the opposite side of the boat from the hanging locker.  
On the main salon side, it is blocked off by a bulkhead that supports the 
chainplates and MAY be accessible behind the cabinetry in the head.  I haven’t 
started ripping into the interior to explore that option as yet.  FYI, my boat 
has the “traditional” layout for the Landfall 35, not the “couple’s cruiser” 
layout with the head and galley amidships on port and starboard respectively.  
My deck fitting is just forward of the starboard chainplates (which also tend 
to get in the way of access with a large tool!).

Chuck

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 11:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

 

Chuck,

 

Had the same problem, but I was able to find the hose/deck fitting in the 
hanging locker, disconnect the hose and replace the deck fitting.  I tried 
drilling, beating, cursing, but did not try a torch.  Good luck!

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Suggestions needed:

I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a number 
of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional 
and replaced items that needed updates.  

So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good 
idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.

Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste 
fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded 
itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several deck keys and 
tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an 
application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet 
to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get enough purchase on 
the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only 
several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?

 

My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma begins- 
 Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of 
methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a 
butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission?   I’ve 
generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by 
dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze 
and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in 
the tank.   Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the most 
stubborn deck fills?

I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no 
idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply 
screwed in place?

While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the 
entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out 
there, I’m open to suggestions.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!





 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Chuck,

Had the same problem, but I was able to find the hose/deck fitting in the
hanging locker, disconnect the hose and replace the deck fitting.  I tried
drilling, beating, cursing, but did not try a torch.  Good luck!

Joel

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Suggestions needed:
>
> I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
> functional and replaced items that needed updates.
>
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
>
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has
> corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several
> deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the
> tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic
> tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get
> enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting
> lid as they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>
>
>
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the
> boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to
> the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a
> “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
>
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I
> have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it
> is simply screwed in place?
>
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to
> spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever
> help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit
the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the
plate open.
I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from
the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.
Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to
replace it anyway.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Suggestions needed:
>
> I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a
> number of years.  I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
> functional and replaced items that needed updates.
>
> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.
>
> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste
> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has
> corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I’ve tried several
> deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the
> tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic
> tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get
> enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting
> lid as they’re only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?
>
>
>
> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma
> begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the
> build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the
> boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into
> submission?   I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free
> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both
> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to
> the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a
> “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?
>
> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I
> have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it
> is simply screwed in place?
>
> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to
> spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever
> help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma

2016-06-06 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Suggestions needed:

I purchased the new to me C Landfall 35 that had been "sitting" for a
number of years.  I've painstakingly gone through systems to get everything
functional and replaced items that needed updates.  

So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a
good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.

Well the one thing that wasn't checked in my systems review was the waste
fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has
corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity.  I've tried several
deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the
tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic
tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting.  No luck.  I just can get
enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting
lid as they're only several mm deep.  Should I drill the holes deeper?

 

My next approach is going to involve heat, but here's where the dilemma
begins-  Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the
build-up of methane inside the tank?  Can I possibly blow myself and the
boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into
submission?   I've generally had good luck with applying heat to free
corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both
appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to
the corrosive nature of what's in the tank.   Has anyone come up with a
"super tool" that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?

I also haven't found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have
no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is
simply screwed in place?

While I don't think the tank is anywhere near full, I'd prefer not to spend
the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help
is out there, I'm open to suggestions.

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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