Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hey Everyone

Just wanted to say thanks for all the feedback.  I have a lot to digest and 
more testing, but I’m on island time so I’ll get to it eventually.

Thanks 

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 15, 2018, at 1:11 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Joe,
> It is the stray electric current through the water which can be caused by 
> metals on other boat in the vicinity or poor grounds on shore power in a 
> marina.  Salt water added to two dissimilar metals makes for a great battery.
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I did (do) not understand it, either; and my bottom paint is not copper-based.  
The closest electrical appliance is the toilet a couple feet away (but that’s 
another thread).  I figured maybe there was something going on in my marina 
slip due to nearby boats or other potential sources.

What I do know is that my previous bronze thru-hull was disintegrating without 
a ground wire, and the replacement bronze thru-hull appears to be doing fine 
with a ground wire.  If the ground wire had not already been sitting there 
(installed at manufacture or by a PO), I’m not sure this solution would have 
even occurred to me.

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2018 11:40 AM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

I am not sure I understand the mechanism of a bronze thru-hull in a fiberglass 
boat connected to a rubber hose suffering electrically caused corrosion.

Possible ideas:

1.  Copper in bottom paint is conducting enough to cause issues.

2.  There is current in the bilge water that is carrying through to the 
thru-hull.

3.  It is/was a crap alloy.

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Joe,
It is the stray electric current through the water which can be caused by 
metals on other boat in the vicinity or poor grounds on shore power in a 
marina.  Salt water added to two dissimilar metals makes for a great battery.
Chuck Gilchrest ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am not sure I understand the mechanism of a bronze thru-hull in a fiberglass 
boat connected to a rubber hose suffering electrically caused corrosion.
Possible ideas:

1.  Copper in bottom paint is conducting enough to cause issues.

2.  There is current in the bilge water that is carrying through to the 
thru-hull.

3.  It is/was a crap alloy.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic Corrosion

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I read something like that several years ago, and installed aluminum on my prop 
shaft, and got lots of annoying blotches all over my prop shaft. I had to sand 
them off. I went back to Zinc - - 

 

This Galvanic /Electrical thing is very complex.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 7:04 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Stus-List Galvanic Corrosion

 

Since you are in fresh water, use aluminum anodes, not zinc.

 

Is your ground bus, behind the electrical panel, connected to the engine.  All 
of your instruments should have their negative leads going to the electrical 
panel ground bus.  Then the ground bus should be connected to the engine block.

 

Alan

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic Corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Yes that is how it is set up.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 14, 2018, at 7:03 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Since you are in fresh water, use aluminum anodes, not zinc.
> 
> Is your ground bus, behind the electrical panel, connected to the engine.  
> All of your instruments should have their negative leads going to the 
> electrical panel ground bus.  Then the ground bus should be connected to the 
> engine block.
> 
> Alan
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Galvanic Corrosion

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Since you are in fresh water, use aluminum anodes, not zinc.

Is your ground bus, behind the electrical panel, connected to the engine.
All of your instruments should have their negative leads going to the
electrical panel ground bus.  Then the ground bus should be connected to
the engine block.

Alan
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I wavered in confusion too and landed on the side of not bolding.On the 
West Marine Advisor website they have reprinted a Practical Sailor article 
written by Stan Honey.  I include the link below.  It is a good read.  Under 
the section on “Bonding and Electrolytic Corrosion”, the first sentence 
read,”Do not bond any thru-hulls or other immersed metal that can be 
electrically isolated.”

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Grounding-Systems

All we need now is a discussion on galvanic isolators… 

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


> On Aug 14, 2018, at 3:06 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 14:43:02 -0400
> From: "Bill Coleman" mailto:colt...@verizon.net>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Galvanic corrosion (Della
>   Barba, Joe)
> Message-ID: <3dc101d433fe$a252eb80$e6f8c280$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Well, Joe, you have just thrown some weight to a very weighty question in my 
> head.
> 
> I have read where these thru hulls are to be grounded, and then I read where 
> you shouldn?t , so I think over the years some I have re-done some grounds, 
> then I read the other way, and I don?t connect them, so half mine are 
> grounded, and the other half are not, just because I don?t know what to do! 
> 
> 
> 
> Are a couple drinks a day good for you, or bad for you?
> 
> Depends on the latest study you read! 
> 
> 
> 
> So, I am going with you, no grounds on any thru-hulls!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for clearing my head. (At least until I read another article.)
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Alan

I have the book.  To the best of my knowledge I have three ground bus bars.  
One behind the electrical panel, engine block and one in the V berth.  I 
installed the v- berth one when I installed the windlass.  The windlass grounds 
directly to the battery, however I also installed a wash down pump and 
macerator pump that are grounded to a bus bar and the that grounds to the 
windlass ground in the v-berth.  Sounds contrary to what you said.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 14, 2018, at 12:53 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike:
> 
> A good book for you is Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical 
> Manual".  In the book, it says:  "All equipment should have an insulated 
> ground that leads back to a central ground bus bar in the main distribution 
> panel, which in turn leads to a common ground point or bus." In other words, 
> don't connect one ground to another, and then to the ground bus.  Each piece 
> of equipment must have it's own ground going to the ground bus.
> 
> Alan
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 4:25 PM, Mike via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hi Alan
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I almost 
>> never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to charge 
>> the batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are removed, every 
>> 6 to 8 weeks
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the 
>> start battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that 
>> as an issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.  
>> Next I took the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the 
>> same.  Next I disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside 
>> and checked for voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25 
>> V.  I removed the positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw 
>> voltage. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I’m testing might be 
>> creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist 
>> out there.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
>> Persuasion
>> Stormont Yacht Club
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
>> Sent: August 9, 2018 5:23 PM
>> To: C
>> Cc: ALAN BERGEN
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're 
>> cheaper than magnesium.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC 
>> line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter 
>> should read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be 
>> pretty low.  If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a 
>> return path, other than through the AC supply line.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> 
>> Rose City YC
>> 
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Bob
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and 
>> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I 
>> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike 
>> 
>> 
>> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for the 
>> type of water your boats in?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> 
>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>> 
>> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> 
>> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> 
>> Annapolis, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hey folks
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion 
>> or stra

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The reason to ground them is to prevent lightning flashovers. IMHO this is 
outweighed by the corrosion issues caused by this wiring.



Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Kern via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 3:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Don Kern 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Galvanic corrosion (Della Barba, Joe)


I also am of the convention of none of the overboards that have plastic/rubber 
inboard should be grounded.  When I first got the boat in 1980 we were eating 
zincs, one every other month.  I read an article at the time that basically 
said that if you have a copper base paint you were setting up eddy currents 
between the overboards and the prop zinc.  I remove all the grounds from the 
overboards and have had the zinc last the whole season (May-Oct), since then.  
My two cents
Don Kern
Fireball  12708
C 35 MK2 (1974)
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I was mainly answering Mike but adding to your question also. I am not clear on 
what is being
measured, assumed something to ship's ground.


I have not understood the need to ground an otherwise electrically isolated 
bronze through hull
or seacock though I think at one point it was recommended.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 18:07:44 + 
From: "Della Barba, Joe"  

 
I am still not clear on how the voltage is being measured and between what 
points. 
I have bronze thru-hulls that are not wired to anything. If I measured between 
them and the lead keel or the engine with the stainless shaft, I am sure I 
would read a voltage, they are dissimilar metals in salt water. Absent me 
wiring up the voltmeter, the thru-hulls have no connection to anything else and 
would not corrode. If you do have all these thru-hulls wired to ground, as is 
done on some boats, you now have a battery. You need to be sure there is a zinc 
involved in there somewhere and it had better have a good connection so that 
the zinc is the part of the battery corroding. 
IMHO and also the article referenced in another post, I like to make sure my 
seacocks and thru-hulls are NOT grounded. This eliminates the issue of poor 
contact to zincs and prevents the boat wiring from being a path for leakage 
between boats on one side of you and boats on the other, which is something a 
zinc will have a hard time saving you from. 
Joe 
Coquina 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion (Della Barba, Joe)

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

You could try reading current with your multimeter instead of voltage. Small 
stray voltages
likely exist when measuring between lead and SS even in fresh water but I doubt 
they will
sustain much current.


Just as an example of magnitude very roughly if there was a current of 1 amp 
continuously
in normal soil it would corrode about 20 lbs of steel in a year.


If you are reading less than 0.5 milliamp I would say those two surfaces are 
not going to have
much corrosion between them. If you are seeing over a milliamp then there is an 
issue.
The circuit requires two paths, the dissimilar metals in water and then 
something on the boat
connecting them together. Some advice has been to connect the mast, standing 
rigging and
keel together but do not ground them to the boats electrical system. That may 
be difficult
if items like the VHF antenna is mounted to a metal bracket on the mast. You 
can test for
this by measuring the resistance between the mast and ship's ground. Anything 
under
10 ohms would indicate a connection.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1
 




Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 13:41:43 + 
From: "Della Barba, Joe"  

 
Voltage readings between what and what? 
 
 
Joe Della Barba 
Coquina 

Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 7:25 PM 

Hi Alan 
 
The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I almost 
never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to charge the 
batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are removed, every 6 to 8 
weeks 
 
So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the start 
battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that as an 
issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.  Next I took 
the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the same.  Next I 
disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside and checked for 
voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25 V.  I removed the 
positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw voltage. 
 
Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I?m testing might be 
creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me. 
 
Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist out 
there. 
 
 
Mike 
C 37 K/CB Shoal draft 
Persuasion 
Stormont Yacht Club 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[David Castor via CnC-List]

I installed a galvanic isolator, but they really don't help much with stray
dc current, unfortunately.  I do hang a large zince anode off the boat and
connect to the engine ground.  This anode is supposed to extend the life of
the shaft anodes.  I haven't noticed much difference, but most boats here
have one.   We do have a lot of fairly old fishing boats here so a galvanic
isolator or isolation transformer is standard practice.   In fact, a 77 ft
wooden fishing boat just sank at the dock yesterday.

On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 9:59 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good article.
> Do you use an isolator on your shore power? Really bad marinas can require
> isolation transformers.
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Castor via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, August 14, 2018 12:21 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* David Castor 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>
>
>
> Normally a lurker on this list, since I don't own a C, but thought I'd
> post this link to a paper on corrosion issues by Stan Honey.
> http://honeynav.com/grounding-on-sailboats/
>
>
>
> West Marine has a version of this on their website.  From my perspective
> as a EE (but certainly not a corrosion expert), Stan's suggestions seem to
> sum up the issues and possible remedies pretty well.
>
>
>
> There is no perfect solution, particularly regarding stray currents.   At
> my "hot" marina, I go through two oversized shaft anodes every 5-6 months.
>
>
>
> David Castor
>
> Port Angeles, WA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Good article.
Do you use an isolator on your shore power? Really bad marinas can require 
isolation transformers.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Castor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 12:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Castor 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Normally a lurker on this list, since I don't own a C, but thought I'd post 
this link to a paper on corrosion issues by Stan Honey.  
http://honeynav.com/grounding-on-sailboats/

West Marine has a version of this on their website.  From my perspective as a 
EE (but certainly not a corrosion expert), Stan's suggestions seem to sum up 
the issues and possible remedies pretty well.

There is no perfect solution, particularly regarding stray currents.   At my 
"hot" marina, I go through two oversized shaft anodes every 5-6 months.

David Castor
Port Angeles, WA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[David Castor via CnC-List]

Normally a lurker on this list, since I don't own a C, but thought I'd
post this link to a paper on corrosion issues by Stan Honey.
http://honeynav.com/grounding-on-sailboats/

West Marine has a version of this on their website.  From my perspective as
a EE (but certainly not a corrosion expert), Stan's suggestions seem to sum
up the issues and possible remedies pretty well.

There is no perfect solution, particularly regarding stray currents.   At
my "hot" marina, I go through two oversized shaft anodes every 5-6 months.

David Castor
Port Angeles, WA


On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 9:53 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Mike:
>
> A good book for you is Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and
> Electrical Manual".  In the book, it says:  "All equipment should have an
> insulated ground that leads back to a central ground bus bar in the main
> distribution panel, which in turn leads to a common ground point or bus."
> In other words, don't connect one ground to another, and then to the ground
> bus.  Each piece of equipment must have it's own ground going to the ground
> bus.
>
> Alan
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 4:25 PM, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Alan
>>
>>
>>
>> The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I
>> almost never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to
>> charge the batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are
>> removed, every 6 to 8 weeks
>>
>>
>>
>> So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the
>> start battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that
>> as an issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.
>> Next I took the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the
>> same.  Next I disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside
>> and checked for voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25
>> V.  I removed the positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw
>> voltage.
>>
>>
>>
>> Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I’m testing might
>> be creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.
>>
>>
>>
>> Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist
>> out there.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>> C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
>> Persuasion
>> Stormont Yacht Club
>>
>>
>>
>> *From: *ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>> *Sent: *August 9, 2018 5:23 PM
>> *To: *C 
>> *Cc: *ALAN BERGEN 
>> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>
>>
>>
>> You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're
>> cheaper than magnesium.
>>
>>
>>
>> To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC
>> line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter
>> should read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be
>> pretty low.  If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a
>> return path, other than through the AC supply line.
>>
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>>
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>
>> Rose City YC
>>
>> Portland, OR
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Bob
>>
>>
>>
>> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario
>> and St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh
>> water. I really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
>>
>>
>>
>> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for
>> the type of water your boats in?
>>
>>
>>
>> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Bob Boyer
>>
>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>>
>> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__dainyrays.blogspot.com=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=fJAQMdpX2dTSopdOWc3l9uX5S1WMFKlmsA86BrWxBCw=Wa3qqugmtpAwXVFKMv4mxeeuUh8qI-Q-QEkwBjxxvQo=>
>>
>&

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Hi Mike:

A good book for you is Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and
Electrical Manual".  In the book, it says:  "All equipment should have an
insulated ground that leads back to a central ground bus bar in the main
distribution panel, which in turn leads to a common ground point or bus."
In other words, don't connect one ground to another, and then to the ground
bus.  Each piece of equipment must have it's own ground going to the ground
bus.

Alan


On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 4:25 PM, Mike via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Alan
>
>
>
> The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I almost
> never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to charge
> the batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are removed,
> every 6 to 8 weeks
>
>
>
> So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the
> start battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that
> as an issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.
> Next I took the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the
> same.  Next I disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside
> and checked for voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25
> V.  I removed the positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw
> voltage.
>
>
>
> Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I’m testing might
> be creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.
>
>
>
> Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist
> out there.
>
>
>
>
>
> Mike
> C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
> Persuasion
> Stormont Yacht Club
>
>
>
> *From: *ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *August 9, 2018 5:23 PM
> *To: *C 
> *Cc: *ALAN BERGEN 
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>
>
>
> You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're
> cheaper than magnesium.
>
>
>
> To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC
> line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter
> should read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be
> pretty low.  If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a
> return path, other than through the AC supply line.
>
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Bob
>
>
>
> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and
> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I
> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
>
>
>
> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for
> the type of water your boats in?
>
>
>
> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
>
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__dainyrays.blogspot.com=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=fJAQMdpX2dTSopdOWc3l9uX5S1WMFKlmsA86BrWxBCw=Wa3qqugmtpAwXVFKMv4mxeeuUh8qI-Q-QEkwBjxxvQo=>
>
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> Annapolis, MD
>
>
> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey folks
>
>
>
> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic
> corrosion or stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi
> meter, ground to engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt,
> mast and through hull I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on
> the wind generator, with the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery
> leads.  Also the prop shaft was tarnished looking as well as the prop when
> I hauled out to do the centre board.
>
>
>
> Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this
> methodically and what I should look for.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Mike
>
> PERSUASION
>
> C 37 *(k/cb) *shoal draft
>
> Long Sault
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the l

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Mike via CnC-List]

Joe

I got dizzy just reading your post.  And you confirmed my worst fear.  I could 
hire a professional and watch him spend hours searching for the needle in the 
hay stack.

Mike
C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
Persuasion
Stormont Yacht Club

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: August 13, 2018 10:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

You can have grounds places you don’t expect. The VHF radio may ground negative 
to the chassis that connects to the coax shield that connects to the body of 
the antenna loading coil that connects to the mount that connects to the mast.
Almost any SSB has the coax shield connected to negative that may have DC 
connectivity through the tuner.
Submersible centrifugal bilge pumps (Rule etc.) can have the metal pump shaft 
connected to DC negative, or even worse DC positive if you wire it backwards 
and it will pump just fine wired backwards.
Battery chargers can be a link between DC ground and the AC green wire bus 
outside of the intended connection.
Engines more or less carry DC ground to underwater metal. If the engine ground 
connection is bad, starting the engine will raise the underwater metal above DC 
ground voltage and so will battery charging.
Anything AC like an air conditioner is effectively connected to DC ground.
Etc etc
Back in the day I could spend hours and hours at $60/hr with meters and cables 
tracking this stuff down.


Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2018 1:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Thanks Joe

I think I’m suffering from stray current corrosion.  I’m on a ball at the yacht 
club and as said earlier, the only time I’m connected to AC is when Persuasion 
is on the hard.  I’ve started eliminating different devices looking for the 
leak.  A very slow process.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Aug 10, 2018, at 3:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I am a bit late to this, but FYI:
Galvanic corrosion is caused by two different types of metal in water that are 
electrically connected. The “less noble” metal is the one that corrodes, which 
is why we use zincs (or magnesium or aluminum).
There has to be a path between the metals for this to happen. This can get much 
much worse when on shorepower because all the boats in the marina end up wired 
together via the green ground wire connection. If no one buys new zincs but 
you, guess who supplies the entire marina with anode material? YOU DO! Galvanic 
isolators are 100% needed for any boat on shore power for this reason.
 
The other form of corrosion is stray current corrosion. This does not need 
different metals to work, just electricity flowing through the water. The 
current moves metal from one place to the other, this is how electroplating 
works. This can be very complicated to track down and can do a vast amount of 
damage very quickly. There are a lot of different ways this can happen, but 
imagine a boat with the keel connected to the ground bus, a negative ground 
engine, and a SSB ground plate with DC connection through to the radio. We now 
have 3 different underwater metals connected to the negative side of the DC 
system. If the onboard ground bus and wiring are not perfect, some current will 
flow through the water too.
 
Joe
Coquina
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Alan

The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I almost 
never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to charge the 
batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are removed, every 6 to 8 
weeks

So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the start 
battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that as an 
issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.  Next I took 
the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the same.  Next I 
disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside and checked for 
voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25 V.  I removed the 
positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw voltage.

Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I’m testing might be 
creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.

Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist out 
there.


Mike
C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
Persuasion
Stormont Yacht Club

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
Sent: August 9, 2018 5:23 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're 
cheaper than magnesium.

To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC line 
supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter should 
read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be pretty low.  
If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a return path, other 
than through the AC supply line.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi Bob

I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and St. 
Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I really 
don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route

Mike 

On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
wrote:
What is the condition of your shaft zincs?

Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for the 
type of water your boats in?

Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hey folks

I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion or 
stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, ground to 
engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and through hull 
I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind generator, with 
the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  Also the prop shaft 
was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled out to do the centre 
board.

Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
methodically and what I should look for.


Thanks in advance
Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
Long Sault
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=fJAQMdpX2dTSopdOWc3l9uX5S1WMFKlmsA86BrWxBCw=6TDTN3EQ7I80Q-k6fidTyrTJYYR_NiZP1etzSo1Nj8E=





---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You can have grounds places you don’t expect. The VHF radio may ground negative 
to the chassis that connects to the coax shield that connects to the body of 
the antenna loading coil that connects to the mount that connects to the mast.
Almost any SSB has the coax shield connected to negative that may have DC 
connectivity through the tuner.
Submersible centrifugal bilge pumps (Rule etc.) can have the metal pump shaft 
connected to DC negative, or even worse DC positive if you wire it backwards 
and it will pump just fine wired backwards.
Battery chargers can be a link between DC ground and the AC green wire bus 
outside of the intended connection.
Engines more or less carry DC ground to underwater metal. If the engine ground 
connection is bad, starting the engine will raise the underwater metal above DC 
ground voltage and so will battery charging.
Anything AC like an air conditioner is effectively connected to DC ground.
Etc etc
Back in the day I could spend hours and hours at $60/hr with meters and cables 
tracking this stuff down.


Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2018 1:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Thanks Joe

I think I’m suffering from stray current corrosion.  I’m on a ball at the yacht 
club and as said earlier, the only time I’m connected to AC is when Persuasion 
is on the hard.  I’ve started eliminating different devices looking for the 
leak.  A very slow process.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Aug 10, 2018, at 3:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am a bit late to this, but FYI:
Galvanic corrosion is caused by two different types of metal in water that are 
electrically connected. The “less noble” metal is the one that corrodes, which 
is why we use zincs (or magnesium or aluminum).
There has to be a path between the metals for this to happen. This can get much 
much worse when on shorepower because all the boats in the marina end up wired 
together via the green ground wire connection. If no one buys new zincs but 
you, guess who supplies the entire marina with anode material? YOU DO! Galvanic 
isolators are 100% needed for any boat on shore power for this reason.

The other form of corrosion is stray current corrosion. This does not need 
different metals to work, just electricity flowing through the water. The 
current moves metal from one place to the other, this is how electroplating 
works. This can be very complicated to track down and can do a vast amount of 
damage very quickly. There are a lot of different ways this can happen, but 
imagine a boat with the keel connected to the ground bus, a negative ground 
engine, and a SSB ground plate with DC connection through to the radio. We now 
have 3 different underwater metals connected to the negative side of the DC 
system. If the onboard ground bus and wiring are not perfect, some current will 
flow through the water too.

Joe
Coquina
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have a shaft coupler from PYI (R marine?)... Anyway, they provide a
"solution" of installing a jumper between coupling bolts to provide a
ground path.  They state the purpose as being "if needed".  I have had a
hard time getting straight scientific answer as to when "if needed"
applies.  Some people do it by default.  Others claim that it is for
bonding and electrical protection, others for lighting protection.

I have never installed the jumper.  Without better guidance it is my belief
that without the jumper now my anodes protect my boat and my boat alone -
the shaft and prop exclusively.  I have no other underwater metals besides
the keel and I don't have the keel tied to battery ground.  For limited
lighting protection I do have the mast bonded to the keel.  I could be
convinced that I'm doing it wrong, but for now I know that the prop and
shaft are protected.  Mike, as a possible solution for your stray currents
you could try a shaft coupler... If you have one try removing the ground
wire.

As for anodes, boatzincs.com has a chart to explain the different metals
and salt/fresh/brackish waters.  I too like camp for the copper button but
to the best of my knowledge they are only available in zinc - No magnesium
or aluminum.  To ensure electrical continuity I have been using NoOx
electrical grease under my aluminum anodes. I also wack them pretty hard
while repeatedly tightening the fasteners.

Let us know how your search turns out.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Sat, Aug 11, 2018, 1:42 PM Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Joe
>
> I think I’m suffering from stray current corrosion.  I’m on a ball at the
> yacht club and as said earlier, the only time I’m connected to AC is when
> Persuasion is on the hard.  I’ve started eliminating different devices
> looking for the leak.  A very slow process.
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Aug 10, 2018, at 3:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am a bit late to this, but FYI:
>
> Galvanic corrosion is caused by two different types of metal in water that
> are electrically connected. The “less noble” metal is the one that
> corrodes, which is why we use zincs (or magnesium or aluminum).
>
> There has to be a path between the metals for this to happen. This can get
> much much worse when on shorepower because all the boats in the marina end
> up wired together via the green ground wire connection. If no one buys new
> zincs but you, guess who supplies the entire marina with anode material?
> YOU DO! Galvanic isolators are 100% needed for any boat on shore power for
> this reason.
>
>
>
> The other form of corrosion is stray current corrosion. This does not need
> different metals to work, just electricity flowing through the water. The
> current moves metal from one place to the other, this is how electroplating
> works. This can be very complicated to track down and can do a vast amount
> of damage very quickly. There are a lot of different ways this can happen,
> but imagine a boat with the keel connected to the ground bus, a negative
> ground engine, and a SSB ground plate with DC connection through to the
> radio. We now have 3 different underwater metals connected to the negative
> side of the DC system. If the onboard ground bus and wiring are not
> perfect, some current will flow through the water too.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe

I think I’m suffering from stray current corrosion.  I’m on a ball at the yacht 
club and as said earlier, the only time I’m connected to AC is when Persuasion 
is on the hard.  I’ve started eliminating different devices looking for the 
leak.  A very slow process.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 10, 2018, at 3:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am a bit late to this, but FYI:
> Galvanic corrosion is caused by two different types of metal in water that 
> are electrically connected. The “less noble” metal is the one that corrodes, 
> which is why we use zincs (or magnesium or aluminum).
> There has to be a path between the metals for this to happen. This can get 
> much much worse when on shorepower because all the boats in the marina end up 
> wired together via the green ground wire connection. If no one buys new zincs 
> but you, guess who supplies the entire marina with anode material? YOU DO! 
> Galvanic isolators are 100% needed for any boat on shore power for this 
> reason.
>  
> The other form of corrosion is stray current corrosion. This does not need 
> different metals to work, just electricity flowing through the water. The 
> current moves metal from one place to the other, this is how electroplating 
> works. This can be very complicated to track down and can do a vast amount of 
> damage very quickly. There are a lot of different ways this can happen, but 
> imagine a boat with the keel connected to the ground bus, a negative ground 
> engine, and a SSB ground plate with DC connection through to the radio. We 
> now have 3 different underwater metals connected to the negative side of the 
> DC system. If the onboard ground bus and wiring are not perfect, some current 
> will flow through the water too.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 10, 2018, at 2:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Camp is the manufacturer.  In my opinion, Camp makes the best zincs.  Camp 
> zincs have a copper contact on the inside of each half that ensures good 
> contact is made with the shaft.  
> 
> I only use Camp zincs.  I buy them from boatzincs.com.  BTW, it's not a https 
> secure site.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 10, 2018 at 11:57 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> My spare is stamped with CAMP whatever that means 
>> 
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>>> On Aug 10, 2018, at 12:52 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am not an expert, but I imagine that the anode would decay much slower 
>>> (if it was the wrong one). Btw. The Chandlery has both (zinc and Mg); you 
>>> just have to make sure that you order the right one.
>>>  
>>> Also, if you have direct access to one, you should be able to check what 
>>> metal it is made from (it should be stamped on it).
>>>  
>>> Marek
>>>  
>>> From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2018 12:44
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Persuasion37
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>>  
>>> Are you’re right.  I was focusing g on prevention and not on protection.  
>>> I’ll go to Marine Outfitters and get an anode that I am 100% sure I have 
>>> the right one.  Would a wrong one be eaten away or would it stay like new?
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> PERSUASION
>>> C 37 K/CB
>>> Long Sault
>>> 
>>> On Aug 9, 2018, at 8:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Right. But if it is zinc, it would not properly protect your shaft or 
>>>> propeller
>>>>  
>>>> Marek
>>>>  
>>>> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>>  Original message 
>>>> From: Mike via CnC-List 
>>>> Date: 2018-08-09 20:10 (GMT-05:00)
>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> Cc: Mike 
>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>>>  
>>>> Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
>>>> electrons.  Right?
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Mike
>>>> C 37 K/CB shoal draft
>>>> Persuasion
>>>> Stormont Yacht Club
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
>>>> Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Mike,
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell 
>>>> both zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years 
>>>> ago?), they did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Marek
>>>> 
>>>> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>>>> 
>>>> Ottawa, ON
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
>>>> via CnC-List
>>>> Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> Cc: Persuasion37 
>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they 
>>>> are for fresh water.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Mike
>>>> 
>>>> PERSUASION
>>>> 
>>>> C 37 K/CB
>>>> 
>>>> Long Sault
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>
>>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
>>>> www.avast.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
>>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
>>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

We are docked next to quite a few derelict boats connected to shore power
and for that main reason, I installed a galvanic isolator.

*ProMariner ProSafe FS Galvanic Isolator - 30 Amp*


 And because I don't want to go over checking the zincs between haulouts.
So far it has been in only 60 days.  I'll evaluate this summer once I get a
diving mask.  Device to labor comparisons point to savings.  Additional
'insurance' coverage also.



Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25-2
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am a bit late to this, but FYI:
Galvanic corrosion is caused by two different types of metal in water that are 
electrically connected. The “less noble” metal is the one that corrodes, which 
is why we use zincs (or magnesium or aluminum).
There has to be a path between the metals for this to happen. This can get much 
much worse when on shorepower because all the boats in the marina end up wired 
together via the green ground wire connection. If no one buys new zincs but 
you, guess who supplies the entire marina with anode material? YOU DO! Galvanic 
isolators are 100% needed for any boat on shore power for this reason.

The other form of corrosion is stray current corrosion. This does not need 
different metals to work, just electricity flowing through the water. The 
current moves metal from one place to the other, this is how electroplating 
works. This can be very complicated to track down and can do a vast amount of 
damage very quickly. There are a lot of different ways this can happen, but 
imagine a boat with the keel connected to the ground bus, a negative ground 
engine, and a SSB ground plate with DC connection through to the radio. We now 
have 3 different underwater metals connected to the negative side of the DC 
system. If the onboard ground bus and wiring are not perfect, some current will 
flow through the water too.

Joe
Coquina
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Camp is the manufacturer.  In my opinion, Camp makes the best zincs.  Camp
zincs have a copper contact on the inside of each half that ensures good
contact is made with the shaft.

I only use Camp zincs.  I buy them from boatzincs.com.  BTW, it's not a
https secure site.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Aug 10, 2018 at 11:57 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My spare is stamped with CAMP whatever that means
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Aug 10, 2018, at 12:52 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am not an expert, but I imagine that the anode would decay much slower
> (if it was the wrong one). Btw. The Chandlery has both (zinc and Mg); you
> just have to make sure that you order the right one.
>
> Also, if you have direct access to one, you should be able to check what
> metal it is made from (it should be stamped on it).
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Persuasion37 via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 10, 2018 12:44
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Persuasion37
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>
> Are you’re right.  I was focusing g on prevention and not on protection.
> I’ll go to Marine Outfitters and get an anode that I am 100% sure I have
> the right one.  Would a wrong one be eaten away or would it stay like new?
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Aug 9, 2018, at 8:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Right. But if it is zinc, it would not properly protect your shaft or
> propeller
>
> Marek
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>
>
> ---- Original message 
> From: Mike via CnC-List 
> Date: 2018-08-09 20:10 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mike 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>
>
> Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.
>
>
>
> Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray
> electrons.  Right?
>
>
>
> Mike
> C 37 K/CB shoal draft
> Persuasion
> Stormont Yacht Club
>
>
>
> *From: *Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> *Sent: *August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *Marek Dziedzic
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>
>
>
> Mike,
>
>
>
> I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell
> both zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years
> ago?), they did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Persuasion37
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Persuasion37 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>
>
>
> I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they
> are for fresh water.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> PERSUASION
>
> C 37 K/CB
>
> Long Sault
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo]
> <https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus=02%7C01%7C%7C573c6eb923904dd1410f08d5fe55a561%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636694566154056609=o%2FZWe5pwGWidJ24bYBY5XqE4X2%2B9CPAR3BwkxRCjrzI%3D=0>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
> <https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus=02%7C01%7C%7C573c6eb923904dd1410f08d5fe55a561%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636694566154056609=o%2FZWe5pwGWidJ24bYBY5XqE4X2%2B9CPAR3BwkxRCjrzI%3D=0>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> <https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7Cedb687f4e53d4760e03d08d5fee08e66%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636695162772344564=NJWLUrNRHUCuN%2FJ8rlPDoilWDsnxuURoGjMe6%2Brw4mA%3D=0>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

My spare is stamped with CAMP whatever that means 

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 10, 2018, at 12:52 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am not an expert, but I imagine that the anode would decay much slower (if 
> it was the wrong one). Btw. The Chandlery has both (zinc and Mg); you just 
> have to make sure that you order the right one.
>  
> Also, if you have direct access to one, you should be able to check what 
> metal it is made from (it should be stamped on it).
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2018 12:44
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Persuasion37
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> Are you’re right.  I was focusing g on prevention and not on protection.  
> I’ll go to Marine Outfitters and get an anode that I am 100% sure I have the 
> right one.  Would a wrong one be eaten away or would it stay like new?
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
> On Aug 9, 2018, at 8:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Right. But if it is zinc, it would not properly protect your shaft or 
>> propeller
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>>  
>>  
>>  Original message ----
>> From: Mike via CnC-List 
>> Date: 2018-08-09 20:10 (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Mike 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>  
>> Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
>> electrons.  Right?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> C 37 K/CB shoal draft
>> Persuasion
>> Stormont Yacht Club
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
>> Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell 
>> both zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years ago?), 
>> they did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Marek
>> 
>> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>> 
>> Ottawa, ON
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Persuasion37 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are 
>> for fresh water.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> PERSUASION
>> 
>> C 37 K/CB
>> 
>> Long Sault
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
>> www.avast.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I am not an expert, but I imagine that the anode would decay much slower (if it 
was the wrong one). Btw. The Chandlery has both (zinc and Mg); you just have to 
make sure that you order the right one.

Also, if you have direct access to one, you should be able to check what metal 
it is made from (it should be stamped on it).

Marek

From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2018 12:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Are you’re right.  I was focusing g on prevention and not on protection.  I’ll 
go to Marine Outfitters and get an anode that I am 100% sure I have the right 
one.  Would a wrong one be eaten away or would it stay like new?

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

On Aug 9, 2018, at 8:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
wrote:

Right. But if it is zinc, it would not properly protect your shaft or propeller

Marek

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


 Original message 
From: Mike via CnC-List 
Date: 2018-08-09 20:10 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.

Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
electrons.  Right?

Mike
C 37 K/CB shoal draft
Persuasion
Stormont Yacht Club

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Mike,

I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell both 
zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years ago?), they 
did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.

Marek
1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are for 
fresh water.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault





[Avast logo] 
<https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus=02%7C01%7C%7C573c6eb923904dd1410f08d5fe55a561%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636694566154056609=o%2FZWe5pwGWidJ24bYBY5XqE4X2%2B9CPAR3BwkxRCjrzI%3D=0>

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com<https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus=02%7C01%7C%7C573c6eb923904dd1410f08d5fe55a561%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636694566154056609=o%2FZWe5pwGWidJ24bYBY5XqE4X2%2B9CPAR3BwkxRCjrzI%3D=0>


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray<https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7Cedb687f4e53d4760e03d08d5fee08e66%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636695162772344564=NJWLUrNRHUCuN%2FJ8rlPDoilWDsnxuURoGjMe6%2Brw4mA%3D=0>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

 Are you’re right.  I was focusing g on prevention and not on protection.  I’ll 
go to Marine Outfitters and get an anode that I am 100% sure I have the right 
one.  Would a wrong one be eaten away or would it stay like new?

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 9, 2018, at 8:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Right. But if it is zinc, it would not properly protect your shaft or 
> propeller
> 
> Marek
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Mike via CnC-List 
> Date: 2018-08-09 20:10 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mike 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
> 
> Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.
>  
> Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
> electrons.  Right?
>  
> Mike
> C 37 K/CB shoal draft
> Persuasion
> Stormont Yacht Club
>  
> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> Mike,
>  
> I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell both 
> zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years ago?), they 
> did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Persuasion37 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are 
> for fresh water.
>  
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
> www.avast.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Right. But if it is zinc, it would not properly protect your shaft or propeller

Marek

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.


 Original message 
From: Mike via CnC-List 
Date: 2018-08-09 20:10 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.

Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
electrons.  Right?

Mike
C 37 K/CB shoal draft
Persuasion
Stormont Yacht Club

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Marek Dziedzic<mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Mike,

I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell both 
zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years ago?), they 
did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.

Marek
1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are for 
fresh water.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault





[Avast logo] 
<https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus=02%7C01%7C%7C573c6eb923904dd1410f08d5fe55a561%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636694566154056609=o%2FZWe5pwGWidJ24bYBY5XqE4X2%2B9CPAR3BwkxRCjrzI%3D=0>

This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com<https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.avast.com%2Fantivirus=02%7C01%7C%7C573c6eb923904dd1410f08d5fe55a561%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636694566154056609=o%2FZWe5pwGWidJ24bYBY5XqE4X2%2B9CPAR3BwkxRCjrzI%3D=0>


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Mike via CnC-List]

Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.

Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
electrons.  Right?

Mike
C 37 K/CB shoal draft
Persuasion
Stormont Yacht Club

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Mike,

I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell both 
zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years ago?), they 
did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.

Marek
1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are for 
fresh water.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault




---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're
cheaper than magnesium.

To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC
line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter
should read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be
pretty low.  If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a
return path, other than through the AC supply line.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bob
>
> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and
> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I
> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>
> Mike
>
> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
>
> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for
> the type of water your boats in?
>
> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> 
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD
>
> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey folks
>
> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic
> corrosion or stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi
> meter, ground to engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt,
> mast and through hull I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on
> the wind generator, with the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery
> leads.  Also the prop shaft was tarnished looking as well as the prop when
> I hauled out to do the centre board.
>
> Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this
> methodically and what I should look for.
>
>
> Thanks in advance
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 *(k/cb) *shoal draft
> Long Sault
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> fJAQMdpX2dTSopdOWc3l9uX5S1WMFKlmsA86BrWxBCw=6TDTN3EQ7I80Q-
> k6fidTyrTJYYR_NiZP1etzSo1Nj8E=
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Mike,

I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell both 
zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years ago?), they 
did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.

Marek
1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are for 
fresh water.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are for 
fresh water.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 9, 2018, at 9:43 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> Just to make sure, you use Magnesium anodes, do you?
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Mike Taylor via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 09:01
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mike Taylor 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> Hi Bob
>  
> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and 
> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I 
> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>  
> Mike 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Mike,
Just to make sure, you use Magnesium anodes, do you?

Marek

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Mike Taylor via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 09:01
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike Taylor 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

Hi Bob

I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and St. 
Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I really 
don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route

Mike
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Mike Taylor via CnC-List]

Hi Bob

I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and St. 
Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I really 
don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route

Mike 

> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
> 
> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for the 
> type of water your boats in?
> 
> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> 
>> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hey folks
>> 
>> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion 
>> or stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, 
>> ground to engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and 
>> through hull I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind 
>> generator, with the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  
>> Also the prop shaft was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled 
>> out to do the centre board.
>> 
>> Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
>> methodically and what I should look for.
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks in advance
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
>> Long Sault
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

What is the condition of your shaft zincs?

Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for the 
type of water your boats in?

Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey folks
> 
> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion 
> or stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, 
> ground to engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and 
> through hull I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind 
> generator, with the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  
> Also the prop shaft was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled 
> out to do the centre board.
> 
> Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
> methodically and what I should look for.
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
> Long Sault
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hey folks

I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion or 
stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, ground to 
engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and through hull 
I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind generator, with 
the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  Also the prop shaft 
was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled out to do the centre 
board.

Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
methodically and what I should look for.


Thanks in advance
Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
Long Sault___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray