Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

BTW that grey pipe is 1/2" polybutylene and has a slightly smaller O.D.
than PEX (polyethylene).  You might get lucky using fittings designed for
PEX but I have had some leak.  A Google search will provide associated
problems, law suits, and solutions.

Josh
On May 27, 2015 7:13 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
> pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
> throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three
> way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
> fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
> the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/
>
> The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But,
> they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head
> scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.
> Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other
> junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has
> a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was
> all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned
> that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line
> cracks and leaks.  The company is now out of business, of course.
>
> These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
> without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but
> am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on
> the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking,
> they'll break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my
> actual question...
>
> What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning
> and drying process?
>
> Has anyone done this successfully?
>
> If so, what did you use?
>
> If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I
> try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)
>
> As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!
>
> thx
>
> Tom B
>
>  Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I’ve used fitting from McMaster-Carr that work with the grey tubing.  See 
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/173/=xdl4jn for polypropylene ½” tube to 
½”pipe thread and ½” tubing connectors.  It seals perfectly as I can leave the 
boat for several days and still have water pressure from the accumulator.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Tom, replace the Qest fittings with more of the same and go sailing! Save
your money and TIME for a different project IMO.  Your boat is considerably
newer than many on the list and you are bound to have more useful life in
your Qest plumbing system. I just replaced my water heater as well and
ordered new fittings from https://www.plumbingsupply.com/. One thing for
sure I know I'll never see a return on when I sell the boat is replacing a
currently functional plumbing system with similar.

On Thu, May 28, 2015, 5:58 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Watts!
> Like this.
> <http://www.homedepot.ca/product/quick-connect-union-3-8-in-cts/913103>
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Stevan Plavsa 
> wrote:
>
>> I just replaced all of mine. If some of it's leaking now it's only a
>> matter of time before it all starts to deteriorate. I used Pex, wasn't a
>> big chore or anything and now I know my pipes are clean. Can you imagine
>> the stuff growing in your plumbing after 20 years? Pex is available at Home
>> Depot and it's not expensive. Lots of different connector options, I spent
>> the money and used the clip type ones .. I think they are called Whale,
>> can't remember for sure. Really easy to use and they haven't leaked.
>>
>> Yeah, here you go:
>> http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137569
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 7:35 AM, John Russo via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are
>>> still manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water
>>> tank connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them
>>> through the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West
>>> Marine) I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic
>>> reducers at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal
>>> the joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant
>>> made especially for plastic. Hope this helps.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> Arpeggio
>>>
>>> C&C 32
>>>
>>> Norwalk, CT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ
>>> & Melody via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Russ & Melody
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Tom,
>>>
>>> I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original
>>> source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless
>>> as a sealing medium
>>>  in compression fitting applications.
>>> In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the
>>> seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force.
>>>
>>> In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape
>>> solution.
>>>
>>> Cheers, Russ
>>> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>>>
>>>
>>> At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote:
>>>
>>> New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
>>> pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
>>> throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three
>>> way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
>>> fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
>>> the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/
>>>
>>> The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But,
>>> they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head
>>> scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.
>>> Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other
>>> junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has
>>> a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was
>>> all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned
>>> that it st

Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Watts!
Like this.
<http://www.homedepot.ca/product/quick-connect-union-3-8-in-cts/913103>

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 8:49 AM, Stevan Plavsa 
wrote:

> I just replaced all of mine. If some of it's leaking now it's only a
> matter of time before it all starts to deteriorate. I used Pex, wasn't a
> big chore or anything and now I know my pipes are clean. Can you imagine
> the stuff growing in your plumbing after 20 years? Pex is available at Home
> Depot and it's not expensive. Lots of different connector options, I spent
> the money and used the clip type ones .. I think they are called Whale,
> can't remember for sure. Really easy to use and they haven't leaked.
>
> Yeah, here you go:
> http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137569
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 7:35 AM, John Russo via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are still
>> manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water tank
>> connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them through
>> the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West Marine)
>> I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic reducers
>> at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal the
>> joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant
>> made especially for plastic. Hope this helps.
>>
>>
>>
>> John
>>
>> Arpeggio
>>
>> C&C 32
>>
>> Norwalk, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ
>> & Melody via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Russ & Melody
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Tom,
>>
>> I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original
>> source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless
>> as a sealing medium
>>  in compression fitting applications.
>> In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the
>> seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force.
>>
>> In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution.
>>
>> Cheers, Russ
>> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>>
>>
>> At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote:
>>
>> New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
>> pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
>> throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three
>> way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
>> fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
>> the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/
>>
>> The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But,
>> they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head
>> scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.
>> Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other
>> junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has
>> a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was
>> all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned
>> that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line
>> cracks and leaks.  The company is now out of business, of course.
>>
>> These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
>> without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but
>> am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on
>> the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking,
>> they'll break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my
>> actual question...
>>
>> What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning
>> and drying process?
>>
>> Has anyone done this successfully?
>>
>> If so, what did you use?
>>
>> If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I
>> try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)
>>

Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I just replaced all of mine. If some of it's leaking now it's only a matter
of time before it all starts to deteriorate. I used Pex, wasn't a big chore
or anything and now I know my pipes are clean. Can you imagine the stuff
growing in your plumbing after 20 years? Pex is available at Home Depot and
it's not expensive. Lots of different connector options, I spent the money
and used the clip type ones .. I think they are called Whale, can't
remember for sure. Really easy to use and they haven't leaked.

Yeah, here you go:
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137569

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Thu, May 28, 2015 at 7:35 AM, John Russo via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are still
> manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water tank
> connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them through
> the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West Marine)
> I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic reducers
> at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal the
> joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant
> made especially for plastic. Hope this helps.
>
>
>
> John
>
> Arpeggio
>
> C&C 32
>
> Norwalk, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ
> & Melody via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Russ & Melody
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors
>
>
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original
> source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless
> as a sealing medium
>  in compression fitting applications.
> In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the
> seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force.
>
> In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
>
> At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote:
>
> New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
> pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
> throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three
> way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
> fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
> the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/
>
> The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But,
> they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head
> scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.
> Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other
> junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has
> a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was
> all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned
> that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line
> cracks and leaks.  The company is now out of business, of course.
>
> These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
> without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but
> am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on
> the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking,
> they'll break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my
> actual question...
>
> What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning
> and drying process?
>
> Has anyone done this successfully?
>
> If so, what did you use?
>
> If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I
> try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)
>
> As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!
>
> thx
>
> Tom B
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[John Russo via CnC-List]

The fittings shown in the picture are definitely Quest and they are still
manufactured and available. I just had to redo my Raritan hot water tank
connections in a new tank install and had no problem getting them through
the marina work shop and a local marine store.( not carried by West Marine)
I also had leaks as I had to use some old non Quest ¾ to ½ plastic reducers
at the tank connection and used a product called Stop Leak to seal the
joints which did the job. The local yard mechanic loaned me his sealant made
especially for plastic. Hope this helps.

 

John

Arpeggio 

C&C 32

Norwalk, CT 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 1:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

 

Hi Tom,

I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original source
and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is useless as a
sealing medium 
 in compression fitting applications. 
In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make the seal,
in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force. 

In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote:



New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three way
valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/


The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they
leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing
the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.   Also, I suspect
that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have
not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on
the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including
in residential applications, until they learned that it started to
deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.
The company is now out of business, of course.

These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but
am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the
tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll
break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my actual
question...

What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and
drying process?

Has anyone done this successfully?

If so, what did you use?  

If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try?
(My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)

As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!

thx

Tom B  

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com <http://www.sv-alera.com/>  
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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

I don't have anything to add to the other comments regarding original 
source and alternatives. But I will point out that teflon tape is 
useless as a sealing medium

 in compression fitting applications.
In pipe thread (NPT) applications the thread contact surfaces make 
the seal, in compression fittings the threads simply afford a clamping force.


In other words, don't try to fix this problem with a thread tape solution.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:14 PM 27/05/2015, you wrote:
New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a 
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and 
fittings throughout.  All appear to be original except for those 
around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or 
possible more) of the "T" fittings where the hot and cold water runs 
split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have 
small leaks.  Here's a picture - 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/


The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. 
But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the 
head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high 
priority.   Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar 
issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According 
to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar 
set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential 
applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate 
after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.  The 
company is now out of business, of course.


These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done 
originally without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a 
wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them 
or loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back 
up until they stop leaking, they'll break.  Thus, turning a small 
problem into a big one.  Now to my actual question...


What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough 
cleaning and drying process?


Has anyone done this successfully?

If so, what did you use?

If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest 
I try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)


As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!

thx

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Most RV stores carry those fittings.
Marek 


Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date: 2015-05-27  21:29  (GMT-05:00) 
To: C&C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors 

Tom,
Those connections and pipe are called "qest" it was made by zurn the current 
makers of pex but the two are not compatible.  You can get crimp adapters made 
by Apollo to convert from qest pipe to pex pipe and then to pex fittings.  Or 
some online retailers are still selling ALL of the qest fittings.
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD
On May 27, 2015 7:13 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List"  
wrote:


New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and
fittings throughout.  All appear to be original except for those
around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or
possible more) of the "T" fittings where the hot and cold water
runs split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have
small leaks.  Here's a picture
-
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/



The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But,
they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head
scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high
priority.   Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have,
similar issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet. 
According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a
similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in
residential applications, until they learned that it started to
deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and
leaks.  The company is now out of business, of course.


These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on
them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them
to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop
leaking, they'll break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big
one.  Now to my actual question...


What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning
and drying process?


Has anyone done this successfully?


If so, what did you use?  


If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I
try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about
that one)


As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all
welcome!


thx


Tom B  


Tom Buscaglia

SV Alera

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon Island WA

(206) 463-9200

www.sv-alera.com




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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Tom,

Those connections and pipe are called "qest" it was made by zurn the
current makers of pex but the two are not compatible.  You can get crimp
adapters made by Apollo to convert from qest pipe to pex pipe and then to
pex fittings.  Or some online retailers are still selling ALL of the qest
fittings.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 27, 2015 7:13 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
> pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
> throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three
> way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
> fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
> the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/
>
> The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But,
> they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head
> scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.
> Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other
> junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has
> a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was
> all the rage, including in residential applications, until they learned
> that it started to deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line
> cracks and leaks.  The company is now out of business, of course.
>
> These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
> without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but
> am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on
> the tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking,
> they'll break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my
> actual question...
>
> What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning
> and drying process?
>
> Has anyone done this successfully?
>
> If so, what did you use?
>
> If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I
> try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)
>
> As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!
>
> thx
>
> Tom B
>
>  Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Tom,

 

I have been very successful at replacing the original gray butyl plumbing
pipe with PEX.  It is readily available at RV stores and uses many of the
same connections.  The pipe is easier to bend and seals well.  Check it out.
I've had several sections of the grey tubing crack and fail.  PEX appears to
be much more durable.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2015 7:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

 

New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings
throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three way
valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T"
fittings where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to
the sink and shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/
<https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public
/>  

The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they
leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing
the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.   Also, I suspect
that I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have
not discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on
the Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including
in residential applications, until they learned that it started to
deteriorate after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.
The company is now out of business, of course.

These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally
without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but
am worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the
tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll
break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my actual
question...

What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and
drying process?

Has anyone done this successfully?

If so, what did you use?  

If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try?
(My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)

As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!

thx

Tom B  



Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com <http://www.sv-alera.com/> 


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Re: Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I have replaced most of the original gray hoses with vinyl water hose.  This 
also means changing the connections to hose barbs--they are a lot more reliable!

Bob

On May 27, 2015, at 7:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:

> New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a 
> pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and fittings 
> throughout.  All appear to be original except for those around the three way 
> valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or possible more) of the "T" fittings 
> where the hot and cold water runs split behind the sink to go to the sink and 
> shower in the head have small leaks.  Here's a picture - 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/ 
> 
> The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. But, they 
> leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the head scandalizing the 
> Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high priority.   Also, I suspect that 
> I may have, or will have, similar issues at other junctures that I have not 
> discovered yet.  According to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the 
> Lake with a similar set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in 
> residential applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate 
> after 20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.  The company is 
> now out of business, of course.
> 
> These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done originally 
> without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a wrench on them but am 
> worried that if I can to either tighten them or loosen them to put on the 
> tape sealant before tightening em back up until they stop leaking, they'll 
> break.  Thus, turning a small problem into a big one.  Now to my actual 
> question...
> 
> What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough cleaning and 
> drying process?
> 
> Has anyone done this successfully?
> 
> If so, what did you use?  
> 
> If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest I try?  
> (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)
> 
> As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B  
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame

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Stus-List Grey Potable water connectors

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this.  Alera has a 
pressurize potable water system.  It uses grey colored hoses and 
fittings throughout.  All appear to be original except for those 
around the three way valve I replaced a few years ago.  One (or 
possible more) of the "T" fittings where the hot and cold water runs 
split behind the sink to go to the sink and shower in the head have 
small leaks.  Here's a picture 
-https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/17989742489/in/dateposted-public/


The leaks are not enough to be a huge problem in terms of volume. 
But, they leak out from behind the bulkhead into the floor of the 
head scandalizing the Admiral and making gett8ng them fixed a high 
priority.   Also, I suspect that I may have, or will have, similar 
issues at other junctures that I have not discovered yet.  According 
to my brother, who has a CS40 at Niagara on the Lake with a similar 
set up, this grey stuff was all the rage, including in residential 
applications, until they learned that it started to deteriorate after 
20 years or so, developing hair line cracks and leaks.  The company 
is now out of business, of course.


These are in a difficult location and appear to have been done 
originally without any silicon tape sealant.  I can probably get a 
wrench on them but am worried that if I can to either tighten them or 
loosen them to put on the tape sealant before tightening em back up 
until they stop leaking, they'll break.  Thus, turning a small 
problem into a big one.  Now to my actual question...


What do you think of using a sealant on these after a thorough 
cleaning and drying process?


Has anyone done this successfully?

If so, what did you use?

If not, (this ought to be a good one) what sealant would you suggest 
I try?  (My Brother Tony suggested 3m 4200, but I'm not sure about that one)


As always, suggestions, stories and wise-assed remarks are all welcome!

thx

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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