Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

That’s what my friend was getting at, too.  Thanks.

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2017 12:12 PM
To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

Matt — you want the house bank to be one big bank, rather than two smaller 
ones; this will make management easier, and also help to keep you from 
discharging either of the smaller banks beyond the 50% mark.  And assuming you 
have a reasonably powerful charger, you’ll make the best use of it, without 
having to manage charging across several banks. 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Apr 8, 2017, at 1:45 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Fred:

  I was not aware of your expertise (although your insightful comments 
indicate specialized knowledge).  Question for you:

  I am planning to install the same DC switch on my 42 that I had installed 
on my 34.  It is a Blue Sea System switch that separates the starting battery 
from the two house batteries, but allows for an emergency crossover.  On my old 
boat, the house batteries were also wired into the existing 1-2-all selector 
switch so that I continued to the existing switch to control which house 
battery was being used.  A friend of mine recently expressed the view that the 
house batteries should simply be tied in without the selector switch so that 
they are both being used at the same time.  What say you?

  Matt




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Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Matt — you want the house bank to be one big bank, rather than two smaller 
ones; this will make management easier, and also help to keep you from 
discharging either of the smaller banks beyond the 50% mark.  And assuming you 
have a reasonably powerful charger, you’ll make the best use of it, without 
having to manage charging across several banks.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 8, 2017, at 1:45 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred:
>  
> I was not aware of your expertise (although your insightful comments 
> indicate specialized knowledge).  Question for you:
>  
> I am planning to install the same DC switch on my 42 that I had installed 
> on my 34.  It is a Blue Sea System switch that separates the starting battery 
> from the two house batteries, but allows for an emergency crossover.  On my 
> old boat, the house batteries were also wired into the existing 1-2-all 
> selector switch so that I continued to the existing switch to control which 
> house battery was being used.  A friend of mine recently expressed the view 
> that the house batteries should simply be tied in without the selector switch 
> so that they are both being used at the same time.  What say you?
>  
> Matt

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Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Not sure I agree 100% with your friend as you worded it, and I do agree
with Marek's later post about a single house bank and separate start
battery.

I went through much of this with the help of folks here, and others, and
posted the end result here:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html

Spent a lot of time thinking it through and am happy with the outcome for
my purposes.

Dave  33-2 windstar.




*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Matthew
L. Wolford via CnC-List
*Sent:* Saturday, April 08, 2017 14:46
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Matthew L. Wolford <wolf...@erie.net>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred



A friend of mine recently expressed the view that the house batteries
should simply be tied in without the selector switch so that they are both
being used at the same time.  What say you?



Matt
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Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Matt,

There is a general idea that the 1-2-Both switch can lead to operator error 
(switching to off, when the alternator is running, which quite likely would fry 
the alternator diodes). Therefore the better setup is to have the house battery 
bank tied directly to the alternator and have the starting battery charged by 
an ACR or an Echo-Charger. This provides the protection from user error and 
gives the priority to charging the house bank that supposedly is the one that 
gets discharged deeper (hence it needs more charge). The starting battery is 
much smaller, and needs much less charge. This also provides you with a peace 
of mind  - you should never discharge the starting battery by using any 
on-board systems.

The second point is that you are much better off having a single large house 
bank (vs. a split one). A larger (combined) bank should last longer (you would 
less likely discharge it below the safe level) and would provide a higher real 
capacity (Peukert is your enemy here).

Keep in mind that a larger bank may need a larger alternator or bigger charger, 
but you would need them regardless.

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 14:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford <wolf...@erie.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

A friend of mine recently expressed the view that the house batteries should 
simply be tied in without the selector switch so that they are both being used 
at the same time.  What say you?

Matt

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Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Fred:

I was not aware of your expertise (although your insightful comments 
indicate specialized knowledge).  Question for you:

I am planning to install the same DC switch on my 42 that I had installed 
on my 34.  It is a Blue Sea System switch that separates the starting battery 
from the two house batteries, but allows for an emergency crossover.  On my old 
boat, the house batteries were also wired into the existing 1-2-all selector 
switch so that I continued to the existing switch to control which house 
battery was being used.  A friend of mine recently expressed the view that the 
house batteries should simply be tied in without the selector switch so that 
they are both being used at the same time.  What say you?

Matt

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 1:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transducer help

Hello, Tom, and welcome to the list!  My first boat was a 1981 30mkI, hull 
#677; wow, a 12” plotter is going to be huge on that boat!  I’ve got a 7” on my 
Landfall 38…   :^) 

Your existing instruments probably are Signet; but they can’t be networked with 
the eS Series, which requires NMEA2000 or SeaTalkNG to get the data in from 
instruments.  In order to have data both on gauges and the eS, you’d need to 
replace your instruments with networkable ones.  In the Raymarine world, this 
would most likely be the i70 Series for color LCD gauges; or the i50/i60 Series 
for the more traditional mechanical gauges.  The i50/i60 are basically locked 
into displaying one type of data; on the i70, you can display speed, depth and 
wind data simultaneously on one or more displays, as well as the data being 
made available to the eS.

If it were up to me on my boat, I’d fill in the holes for the Signets, and put 
in one of the i70 Sailpack systems that comes with a combo depth/speed/temp 
transducer and a masthead wind transducer.  Put the i70 in the bulkhead where 
one of the Signets used to be, and run the network to the plotter.

Since you’re new to the list, let me mention that in a former life, I was an 
NMEA/ABYC-certified marine electrician and electronics guy.  I’ve kept my 
vendor relationships, and can purchase equipment for C at very 
reasonable prices, as well as offer design assistance.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Apr 7, 2017, at 12:06 PM, T power via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  Hi all,

  First off, I'm really new to sailing so there is a steep learning curve for 
me. 
  I own a C 30 MKI that currently has a depth, speed, and wind gauges, they 
are round, I think they are made by signet?? I have a new Raymarine eS128 Chart 
plotter that I would like to install. I have no idea what transducers to 
install, deadrise, etc. I would like to end up using the original gauges, and 
also have speed, depth, and wind on the chart plotter.

  Any help would be very much appreciated.

  Cheers,
  Tom

  Sent from Outlook
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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Ugh!

On Apr 8, 2017 1:16 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh — the original instruments on most all of our boats were standalone
> single-purpose instruments; the transducers connected directly to them, and
> they did NOT network at all.  Signet, Moor and EMS are brands which come to
> mind.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 7, 2017, at 8:46 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My limited experience with the actual electronics of instrument packages
> is my DataMarine Offshore Link.  All the instruments feed into a head unit
> and the head unit outputs to display units.  The head also outputs/inputs 2
> different NMEA 0183 channels.  Excuse my ignorance but isn't this more or
> less normal?  With an 0183 data stream you can input that to just about
> anything you want.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Josh — the original instruments on most all of our boats were standalone 
single-purpose instruments; the transducers connected directly to them, and 
they did NOT network at all.  Signet, Moor and EMS are brands which come to 
mind.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 7, 2017, at 8:46 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My limited experience with the actual electronics of instrument packages is 
> my DataMarine Offshore Link.  All the instruments feed into a head unit and 
> the head unit outputs to display units.  The head also outputs/inputs 2 
> different NMEA 0183 channels.  Excuse my ignorance but isn't this more or 
> less normal?  With an 0183 data stream you can input that to just about 
> anything you want.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[T power via CnC-List]

Wow, Thanks for all the reply's and the welcome. Thanks Fred for the great 
explanation. I think the best option will be to purchase a new gauge pack. I'll 
let everyone know how it goes.



Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 10:46:27 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transducer help

My limited experience with the actual electronics of instrument packages is my 
DataMarine Offshore Link.  All the instruments feed into a head unit and the 
head unit outputs to display units.  The head also outputs/inputs 2 different 
NMEA 0183 channels.  Excuse my ignorance but isn't this more or less normal?  
With an 0183 data stream you can input that to just about anything you want.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 7, 2017 3:08 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Chuck — that might work for the paddlewheel, but the impedances will be all 
wrong for the depth and wind transducers, and you’ll also have two sources for 
the depth transducer (Signet instrument and ITC-5) fighting each other.  Also, 
the Signet wind transducer is a different transducer from the Raymarine; the 
thing is wired a bit differently, so the results might be a bit erratic, to say 
the least.  You can’t really parallel or “Y” something like a depth transducer 
to two different destinations, as it’s not made for that.  You can have either 
the display head run the depth or the ITC-5 run it; not both.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 7, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Fred,
Would he be able to run the Signet Transducers through a Raymarine ITC-5 Analog 
transducer converter?  I thought that most analog transducers were rebranded 
Airmar units but does that only apply to more recent transducers and not to the 
older Signet units?  At some point I was hoping to upgrade the analog 
Datamarine Speed and Depth units on Half Magic (1983 LF 35) to chat with my 
ES75 MFD via an I70S and ITC-5, but it is sounding as if my analog transducers 
may not be able to accomplish this even with the ITC-5.  Same issues as Tom but 
with Datamarine rather than Signet.
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA


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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My limited experience with the actual electronics of instrument packages is
my DataMarine Offshore Link.  All the instruments feed into a head unit and
the head unit outputs to display units.  The head also outputs/inputs 2
different NMEA 0183 channels.  Excuse my ignorance but isn't this more or
less normal?  With an 0183 data stream you can input that to just about
anything you want.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 7, 2017 3:08 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chuck — that *might* work for the paddlewheel, but the impedances will be
> all wrong for the depth and wind transducers, and you’ll also have two
> sources for the depth transducer (Signet instrument and ITC-5) fighting
> each other.  Also, the Signet wind transducer is a different transducer
> from the Raymarine; the thing is wired a bit differently, so the results
> might be a bit erratic, to say the least.  You can’t really parallel or “Y”
> something like a depth transducer to two different destinations, as it’s
> not made for that.  You can have either the display head run the depth or
> the ITC-5 run it; not both.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 7, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Fred,
> Would he be able to run the Signet Transducers through a Raymarine ITC-5
> Analog transducer converter?  I thought that most analog transducers were
> rebranded Airmar units but does that only apply to more recent transducers
> and not to the older Signet units?  At some point I was hoping to upgrade
> the analog Datamarine Speed and Depth units on Half Magic (1983 LF 35) to
> chat with my ES75 MFD via an I70S and ITC-5, but it is sounding as if my
> analog transducers may not be able to accomplish this even with the ITC-5.
> Same issues as Tom but with Datamarine rather than Signet.
> Cheers,
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Tom,

I have to say the same, Fred knows his stuff. I have worked with him the past 
and going forward, when my boat is ready to splash, I plan on working with him 
to replace the instruments and electronics on my boat.

Best, 
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Apr 7, 2017, at 1:06 PM, T power via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> First off, I'm really new to sailing so there is a steep learning curve for 
> me. 
> I own a C 30 MKI that currently has a depth, speed, and wind gauges, they 
> are round, I think they are made by signet?? I have a new Raymarine eS128 
> Chart plotter that I would like to install. I have no idea what transducers 
> to install, deadrise, etc. I would like to end up using the original gauges, 
> and also have speed, depth, and wind on the chart plotter.
> 
> Any help would be very much appreciated.
> 
> Cheers,
> Tom
> 
> Sent from Outlook 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chuck — that might work for the paddlewheel, but the impedances will be all 
wrong for the depth and wind transducers, and you’ll also have two sources for 
the depth transducer (Signet instrument and ITC-5) fighting each other.  Also, 
the Signet wind transducer is a different transducer from the Raymarine; the 
thing is wired a bit differently, so the results might be a bit erratic, to say 
the least.  You can’t really parallel or “Y” something like a depth transducer 
to two different destinations, as it’s not made for that.  You can have either 
the display head run the depth or the ITC-5 run it; not both.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 7, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred,
> Would he be able to run the Signet Transducers through a Raymarine ITC-5 
> Analog transducer converter?  I thought that most analog transducers were 
> rebranded Airmar units but does that only apply to more recent transducers 
> and not to the older Signet units?  At some point I was hoping to upgrade the 
> analog Datamarine Speed and Depth units on Half Magic (1983 LF 35) to chat 
> with my ES75 MFD via an I70S and ITC-5, but it is sounding as if my analog 
> transducers may not be able to accomplish this even with the ITC-5.  Same 
> issues as Tom but with Datamarine rather than Signet.
> Cheers,
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Fred,

Would he be able to run the Signet Transducers through a Raymarine ITC-5 Analog 
transducer converter?  I thought that most analog transducers were rebranded 
Airmar units but does that only apply to more recent transducers and not to the 
older Signet units?  At some point I was hoping to upgrade the analog 
Datamarine Speed and Depth units on Half Magic (1983 LF 35) to chat with my 
ES75 MFD via an I70S and ITC-5, but it is sounding as if my analog transducers 
may not be able to accomplish this even with the ITC-5.  Same issues as Tom but 
with Datamarine rather than Signet.

Cheers,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 1:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transducer help

 

Hello, Tom, and welcome to the list!  My first boat was a 1981 30mkI, hull 
#677; wow, a 12” plotter is going to be huge on that boat!  I’ve got a 7” on my 
Landfall 38…   :^)

 

Your existing instruments probably are Signet; but they can’t be networked with 
the eS Series, which requires NMEA2000 or SeaTalkNG to get the data in from 
instruments.  In order to have data both on gauges and the eS, you’d need to 
replace your instruments with networkable ones.  In the Raymarine world, this 
would most likely be the i70 Series for color LCD gauges; or the i50/i60 Series 
for the more traditional mechanical gauges.  The i50/i60 are basically locked 
into displaying one type of data; on the i70, you can display speed, depth and 
wind data simultaneously on one or more displays, as well as the data being 
made available to the eS.

 

If it were up to me on my boat, I’d fill in the holes for the Signets, and put 
in one of the i70 Sailpack systems that comes with a combo depth/speed/temp 
transducer and a masthead wind transducer.  Put the i70 in the bulkhead where 
one of the Signets used to be, and run the network to the plotter.

 

Since you’re new to the list, let me mention that in a former life, I was an 
NMEA/ABYC-certified marine electrician and electronics guy.  I’ve kept my 
vendor relationships, and can purchase equipment for C at very 
reasonable prices, as well as offer design assistance.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Apr 7, 2017, at 12:06 PM, T power via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Hi all,

 

First off, I'm really new to sailing so there is a steep learning curve for me. 

I own a C 30 MKI that currently has a depth, speed, and wind gauges, they are 
round, I think they are made by signet?? I have a new Raymarine eS128 Chart 
plotter that I would like to install. I have no idea what transducers to 
install, deadrise, etc. I would like to end up using the original gauges, and 
also have speed, depth, and wind on the chart plotter.

 

Any help would be very much appreciated.

 

Cheers,

Tom

 

Sent from Outlook <http://aka.ms/weboutlook> 

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<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Tom, welcome to the family...the best advice I could give is to listen to 
Fred, when it comes to the electronics, he knows what he's talking about

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, mile 596;


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: T power via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: T power <sv_invic...@outlook.com>
Sent: Fri, Apr 7, 2017 1:07 pm
Subject: Stus-List Transducer help



Hi all,


First off, I'm really new to sailing so there is a steep learning curve for me. 
I own a C 30 MKI that currently has a depth, speed, and wind gauges, they are 
round, I think they are made by signet?? I have a new Raymarine eS128 Chart 
plotter that I would like to install. I have no idea what transducers to 
install, deadrise, etc. I would like to end up using the original gauges, and 
also have speed, depth, and wind on the chart plotter.


Any help would be very much appreciated.


Cheers,
Tom



Sent from Outlook


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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hello, Tom, and welcome to the list!  My first boat was a 1981 30mkI, hull 
#677; wow, a 12” plotter is going to be huge on that boat!  I’ve got a 7” on my 
Landfall 38…   :^)

Your existing instruments probably are Signet; but they can’t be networked with 
the eS Series, which requires NMEA2000 or SeaTalkNG to get the data in from 
instruments.  In order to have data both on gauges and the eS, you’d need to 
replace your instruments with networkable ones.  In the Raymarine world, this 
would most likely be the i70 Series for color LCD gauges; or the i50/i60 Series 
for the more traditional mechanical gauges.  The i50/i60 are basically locked 
into displaying one type of data; on the i70, you can display speed, depth and 
wind data simultaneously on one or more displays, as well as the data being 
made available to the eS.

If it were up to me on my boat, I’d fill in the holes for the Signets, and put 
in one of the i70 Sailpack systems that comes with a combo depth/speed/temp 
transducer and a masthead wind transducer.  Put the i70 in the bulkhead where 
one of the Signets used to be, and run the network to the plotter.

Since you’re new to the list, let me mention that in a former life, I was an 
NMEA/ABYC-certified marine electrician and electronics guy.  I’ve kept my 
vendor relationships, and can purchase equipment for C at very 
reasonable prices, as well as offer design assistance.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 7, 2017, at 12:06 PM, T power via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> First off, I'm really new to sailing so there is a steep learning curve for 
> me. 
> I own a C 30 MKI that currently has a depth, speed, and wind gauges, they 
> are round, I think they are made by signet?? I have a new Raymarine eS128 
> Chart plotter that I would like to install. I have no idea what transducers 
> to install, deadrise, etc. I would like to end up using the original gauges, 
> and also have speed, depth, and wind on the chart plotter.
> 
> Any help would be very much appreciated.
> 
> Cheers,
> Tom
> 
> Sent from Outlook 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Transducer help

[T power via CnC-List]

Hi all,


First off, I'm really new to sailing so there is a steep learning curve for me.

I own a C 30 MKI that currently has a depth, speed, and wind gauges, they are 
round, I think they are made by signet?? I have a new Raymarine eS128 Chart 
plotter that I would like to install. I have no idea what transducers to 
install, deadrise, etc. I would like to end up using the original gauges, and 
also have speed, depth, and wind on the chart plotter.


Any help would be very much appreciated.


Cheers,

Tom


Sent from Outlook
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