Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan Glad to hear you were successfulnow that you have done it, the next time will be a lot less stressful. I didn't realize I was addressing someone at the Armdale Yacht ClubI drive by there several times a week to my boatif I had known, I could have arranged to meet you and either cleaned it or guided you through it. Nevertheless, it's done. I sometimes have to take mine out twice a season to clear debris/growth. This season, for some reason, I made it to just last week when the padwheel got stuck. I took it out, cleaned it and left it out.I always have the padwheel out when the boat is hauled and/or launched..don't want the padwheel touching any part of my cradlethey are very fragile and it doesn't take much to damage them. One other thing, do not lubricate it with anythingsometimes I initially clean mine with WD-40 and a Q-tip but always thoroughly rinse the WD-40 with a liquid detergent and hot water. The lubrication, no matter what kind, does not work well in salt waterit will slowly gum up making it even more difficult for the wheel to spin. I think I can see your boat from the Purcell's Cove Roadare you docked in the club's back cove? Regards Rob Abbott AZURA C 32 - #277 Halifax, N.S On 2018-10-11 10:29 PM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List wrote: I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 5 cups of water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby muscles. I cleaned it out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working and AOK! :) thanks everyone for the feedback and tips! Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Can’t wait to see the video /John > On Oct 11, 2018, at 9:29 PM, Daniel Cormier wrote: > > I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 5 cups > of water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby muscles. I > cleaned it out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working and AOK! :) > thanks everyone for the feedback and tips! > > Dan > Breakaweigh > C > Halifax, NS > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:17 PM, robert via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Dan: >> One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit down >> into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be differentbut on >> mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have to be lined up to drop >> into their respective slots on the thru hullone obvious reason for this >> is to ensure you install the padwheel in the correct position, facing >> forward and not to a side angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down >> before I can feel if they are in their slotsI know when things are lined >> up because I can now longer turn the plug. >> >> But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when the >> padwheel is clean of any debris. >> >> Rob Abbott >> AZURA >> C 32 - #277 >> Halifax, N.S >> >> >> >>> On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan >>> >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Well done. Glad it worked out. From: Daniel Cormier via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 9:29 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Daniel Cormier Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 5 cups of water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby muscles. I cleaned it out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working and AOK! :) thanks everyone for the feedback and tips! Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS Sent from my iPhone On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:17 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote: Dan: One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit down into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be differentbut on mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have to be lined up to drop into their respective slots on the thru hullone obvious reason for this is to ensure you install the padwheel in the correct position, facing forward and not to a side angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down before I can feel if they are in their slotsI know when things are lined up because I can now longer turn the plug. But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when the padwheel is clean of any debris. Rob Abbott AZURA C 32 - #277 Halifax, N.S On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
I have pulled many times on other boat so no problem to go for it but cant seem to loosen mine now on Halcyon ☹ like most thru hulls and valves they were used little to 0 in the last few years and fearful if something was to break I may not get thigs back together. I need to wait til next Haulout and force it a bit . Hopping for the best ! But yes its not a big deal and I have only GPS speed Now so I want to fix it, but don’t want to force it any thoughts on what might loosen the transducer or outer ring? John Conklin From: CnC-List on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:53:45 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Matthew L. Wolford Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues If you haven’t pulled one before, you may be startled by how fast water rushes in. Remain calm, and have your blank handy. From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:43 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Gary Nylander<mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works. Gary 30-1 From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dan Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. From: Edward Levert via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Edward Levert<mailto:weeselev...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty s
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 5 cups of water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby muscles. I cleaned it out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working and AOK! :) thanks everyone for the feedback and tips! Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:17 PM, robert via CnC-List > wrote: > > Dan: > One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit down > into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be differentbut on > mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have to be lined up to drop > into their respective slots on the thru hullone obvious reason for this > is to ensure you install the padwheel in the correct position, facing forward > and not to a side angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down before I > can feel if they are in their slotsI know when things are lined up > because I can now longer turn the plug. > > But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when the > padwheel is clean of any debris. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C 32 - #277 > Halifax, N.S > > > >> >>> On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing >>> it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you >>> guys seem to think it's a breeze... >>> >>> WISH ME LUCK! >>> >>> Dan >>> >> > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan: One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit down into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be differentbut on mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have to be lined up to drop into their respective slots on the thru hullone obvious reason for this is to ensure you install the padwheel in the correct position, facing forward and not to a side angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down before I can feel if they are in their slotsI know when things are lined up because I can now longer turn the plug. But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when the padwheel is clean of any debris. Rob Abbott AZURA C 32 - #277 Halifax, N.S On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Just move quickly on the replacement plug. Very simple. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 11, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. From: Edward Levert via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Edward Levert<mailto:weeselev...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong? ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) I've got: GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) Black, and Shield to Ground IN Red to Speed Voltage IN Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN Brown to nothing With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get speed sentences? Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray<https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C68f2b56405e54715a60b08d62f8a1b2b%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636748667533133966=kwU3Oro%2BdGwyxtesJOcs2Hv6HIiXx5erdnsL70KaU48%3D=0> ___
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
It really isn't a big deal to pull a transducer and replace it with a plug. I just pull the transducer until it's nearly out, have the plug in the other hand and make the swap fairly quickly. If you do it quickly, you'll get less than a pint of water in the boat. Probably done it hundreds of times. Also, some transducer thru hull fittings have a flapper valve which closes and shuts off flow. If yours is one of those, you'll get very little water in the boat. The only downside I see is getting tiny salt water critters in the bilge where they might cause a smell. Easily resolved by flushing with dock water. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: > or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and > replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business > but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... > > WISH ME LUCK! > > Dan > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
I find that a towel about 2 feet square is very helpful for pulling the speed wheel. I stage the plug near the wheel and then place the towel over top with the edges all tucked into the sump. I work on the cabin side or "top" of the towel, the wheel and plug being underneath. I grab the wheel in one hand (with the towel) and grab the plug in the other hand (with the towel). The draping edges of the towel stay in the bilge sump area and as I withdraw the wheel the towel catches the geyser keeping the water in the bilge. The plug is in my other hand ready to be inserted. Sometimes letting some water accumulate in the sump helps to reduce the geyser effect as well. I keep a medium bristle tooth brush in the sump to scrub the wheel. The extra water is nice for rinsing. The wet towel is rung out there in the sump and then used to clean up any drips or spills. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Oct 11, 2018, 10:59 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: > I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product > I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed > that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA > sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's > not a wiring issue (95% certain)... > That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside > of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water > around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. > The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach > the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out > completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely > risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... > > WISH ME LUCK! > > Dan > > On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> What Ed says. >> >> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go >> sailing. >> >> Dennis C. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Dan >> >> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the >> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting >> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a >> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. >> >> Ed Levert >> C 34 Briar Patch >> New Orleans >> >> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >>> Thanks guys. >>> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and >>> there's no current lol. >>> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it >>> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach >>> under to spin the wheel manually... >>> >>> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so >>> I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for >>> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the >>> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at >>> all? not even a "0.0.0"? >>> >>> Dan >>> >>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>>> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not >>>> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. >>>> >>>> *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List >>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM >>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>>> *Cc:* Edward Levert >>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues >>>> >>>> Dan >>>> >>>> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar >>>> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the >>>> paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My >>>> guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal >>>> the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve >>>> your problem. >>>> >>>> Ed Levert >>>> C 34 Briar Patch >>>> New Orleans >>>> >>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Thanks Fred, that's very interesting... I had success with the temperature so far. If I connect the yellow with red stripe wire, to temp, and white wire to temp ground I get an accurate temperature reading so I know that part is currently working... I'm assuming that also closes the circuit. I could just take the boat out for a run, but I can't mess with wires while driving around so I think I'm going to try pulling the sensor tonight and see how it goes. It probably needs a good inspection and cleaning anyway. I do have the necessary plug to replace it so fingers crossed - at least I'll have this experience to draw upon in the future. Dan On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 1:16 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > My Airmar transducer would not show speed. > We discovered the water temp circuit was open. The speed will not work if > the thermistor is not functional. I did not need the temp info, so we put > in a 15 ohm > resistor to replace the open circuit. That was over 5 years ago and it > worked like a charm. > > Fred Hazzard > S/V Fury > C 44 > Portland, Or > > On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 8:54 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> If you haven’t pulled one before, you may be startled by how fast water >> rushes in. Remain calm, and have your blank handy. >> >> *From:* Gary Nylander via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:43 AM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Gary Nylander >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues >> >> >> Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You >> may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into >> the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works. >> >> >> >> Gary >> >> 30-1 >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Dan via >> CnC-List >> *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Dan >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues >> >> >> >> I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product >> I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed >> that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA >> sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's >> not a wiring issue (95% certain)... >> >> That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the >> underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move >> the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the >> attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try >> to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the >> sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds >> like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... >> >> >> >> WISH ME LUCK! >> >> >> >> Dan >> >> >> >> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> What Ed says. >> >> >> >> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go >> sailing. >> >> >> >> Dennis C. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Dan >> >> >> >> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the >> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting >> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a >> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. >> >> >> >> Ed Levert >> >> C 34 Briar Patch >> >> New Orleans >> >> >> >> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Thanks guys. >> >> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and >> there's no current lol. >> >> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it >> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach >> under to spin the wheel manually... >> >> >> >> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so >> I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for >> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all)
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan, If you have the correct plug to replace the sensor it isnt risky at all. Done it many times on every boat I have owned. Just do.it. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi. Bill Walker On Thursday, October 11, 2018 Dan via CnC-List wrote: I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List wrote: Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. From: Edward Levert via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edward Levert Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong? ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) I've got: GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) Black, and Shield to Ground IN Red to Speed Voltage IN Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN Brown to nothing With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get speed sentences? Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan: The first time I pulled the transducer/padwheel, it was a unnervingI hadn't even removed one while on the hard let alone in 36' of water. Have your factory 'blank' in one hand (and I even now carry a wooden plug just in case), pull up, a gush of water, insert the blank/plug securely, I repeat securely. Do the same when replacing the transducer/padwheelit gets less stressful after the first time. I have it down now to where I get maybe half a quart/litre of saltwater per pull. that water drains into my bilge so it really doesn't matter to me. My padwheel has stopped spinning while sailingI've pulled it under sail to clear the debris preventing it to spin. When I pull it, I can spin it with a finger, drop it and quickly go to the cockpit to see if there is any speed showing on the panelusually I get there around 2 knots and watch it drop back to 0.00 knots. Or get someone around you that has done it before and watch closely to see how easy it is. Rob Abbott AZURA C 32 - #277 Halifax, N.S. On 2018-10-11 11:58 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote: I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
My Airmar transducer would not show speed. We discovered the water temp circuit was open. The speed will not work if the thermistor is not functional. I did not need the temp info, so we put in a 15 ohm resistor to replace the open circuit. That was over 5 years ago and it worked like a charm. Fred Hazzard S/V Fury C 44 Portland, Or On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 8:54 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > If you haven’t pulled one before, you may be startled by how fast water > rushes in. Remain calm, and have your blank handy. > > *From:* Gary Nylander via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:43 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Gary Nylander > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues > > > Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You > may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into > the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works. > > > > Gary > > 30-1 > > > > *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Dan via > CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Dan > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues > > > > I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product > I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed > that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA > sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's > not a wiring issue (95% certain)... > > That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside > of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water > around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. > The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach > the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out > completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely > risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... > > > > WISH ME LUCK! > > > > Dan > > > > On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > What Ed says. > > > > I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. > > > > Dennis C. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Dan > > > > You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the > boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting > the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a > person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. > > > > Ed Levert > > C 34 Briar Patch > > New Orleans > > > > On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List > wrote: > > Thanks guys. > > Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and > there's no current lol. > > I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it > to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach > under to spin the wheel manually... > > > > Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I > can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for > "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the > padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at > all? not even a "0.0.0"? > > > > Dan > > > > On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover > the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. > > > > *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List > > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM > > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > *Cc:* Edward Levert > > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues > > > > Dan > > > > The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar > transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the > paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My > guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal > the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve > your problem. > > > > Ed Levert > > C 34 Briar Patch > > New Orleans > > > > On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan vi
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
If you haven’t pulled one before, you may be startled by how fast water rushes
in. Remain calm, and have your blank handy.
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You may
get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into the
bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works.
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm
using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if
the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will
be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue
(95% certain)...
That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of
the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around
the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only
other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel
with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely
and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business
but you guys seem to think it's a breeze...
WISH ME LUCK!
Dan
On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
What Ed says.
I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List
wrote:
Dan
You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the
boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the
plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person
spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.
Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans
On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List
wrote:
Thanks guys.
Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and
there's no current lol.
I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it
to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under
to spin the wheel manually...
Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so
I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for
"0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel
isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even
a "0.0.0"?
Dan
On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
wrote:
I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not
discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water.
From: Edward Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan
The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar
transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the
paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is
that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle
creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem.
Ed Levert
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans
On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List
wrote:
Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm
trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue
is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where
I'm going wrong?
***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart
sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly.
With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav
computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature
data)
I've got:
GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly)
Black, and Shield to Ground IN
Red to Speed Voltage IN
Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN
Brown to nothing
With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but
no Speed. Anyone know where
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
I still find it a little unnerving to swap the paddle wheel out with a plug—you and your cabin sole will definitely get wet no matter how practiced you are. OTOH, neither you nor the sole will melt or wash away and the brief gusher gives you an idea of why a holed bottom will overcome ANY bulge pump, manual or electric. I am not able to do this with one hand however. Once the gusher begins, I hold onto the plug with both hands to fight the water pressure and align/screw in the plug. If I am not immediately successful, I put the paddle wheel back in and figure out what went wrong! Charlie Nelson C 36XL/kcb Water Phantom Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On Thursday, October 11, 2018, Edward Levert via CnC-List wrote: Dan Had first time worried back in the 1970’s. Pull the transducer with one hand and inset the plug with the other. Good luck Ed Levert Sent from my iPhone On Oct 11, 2018, at 9:58 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote: I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List wrote: Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. From: Edward Levert via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edward Levert Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong? ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) I've got: GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) Black, and Shield to Ground IN Red to Speed Voltage IN Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN Brown to nothing With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get speed sentences? Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Same here, I pull the paddle wheel every time I leave the boat to prevent growth on it. Water going's to spray in, but it's no big deal. Neil Gallagher Weatherly 35-1 Glen Cove, NY On 10/11/2018 11:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote: Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works. Gary 30-1 *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Dan via CnC-List *Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Dan *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. *From:*Edward Levert via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Sent:*Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM *To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> *Cc:*Edward Levert <mailto:weeselev...@gmail.com> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm goin
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. You may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and drains into the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and see if it works. Gary 30-1 From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dan Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. From: Edward Levert via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Edward Levert <mailto:weeselev...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong? ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) I've got: GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) Black, and Shield to Ground IN Red to Speed Voltage IN Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN Brown to nothing With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get speed sentences? Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.p
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
What about taking the boat out for "spin"? Richard s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 600; Richard N. Bush 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Dan via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Dan Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 10:59 am Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List wrote: Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed LevertC 34 Briar PatchNew Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: Thanks guys.Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol.I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. From: Edward Levert via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edward Levert Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed LevertC 34 Briar PatchNew Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong? ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) I've got: GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) Black, and Shield to Ground IN Red to Speed Voltage IN Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN Brown to nothing With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get speed sentences? Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is gre
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan Had first time worried back in the 1970’s. Pull the transducer with one hand and inset the plug with the other. Good luck Ed Levert Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 11, 2018, at 9:58 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote: > > I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm > using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if > the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses > will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a > wiring issue (95% certain)... > That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of > the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around > the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only > other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel > with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely > and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky > business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... > > WISH ME LUCK! > > Dan > >> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List >> wrote: >> What Ed says. >> >> I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. >> >> Dennis C. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> >>> Dan >>> >>> You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the >>> boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting >>> the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a >>> person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. >>> >>> Ed Levert >>> C 34 Briar Patch >>> New Orleans >>> >>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List >>>> wrote: >>>> Thanks guys. >>>> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and >>>> there's no current lol. >>>> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it >>>> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach >>>> under to spin the wheel manually... >>>> >>>> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I >>>> can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for >>>> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the >>>> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at >>>> all? not even a "0.0.0"? >>>> >>>> Dan >>>> >>>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List >>>>> wrote: >>>>> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not >>>>> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the >>>>> water. >>>>> >>>>> From: Edward Levert via CnC-List >>>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM >>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>>>> Cc: Edward Levert >>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues >>>>> >>>>> Dan >>>>> >>>>> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar >>>>> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though >>>>> the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. >>>>> My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse >>>>> signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint >>>>> might solve your problem. >>>>> >>>>> Ed Levert >>>>> C 34 Briar Patch >>>>> New Orleans >>>>> >>>>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm >>>>>> trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the >>>>>> issueis with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe >>>>>> you know where I'm going wrong? >>>>>> >>>>>> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" >>>>>> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. >>>>>> >>>>>> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav >>>>>> computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no >>>>>> temperature data) >>>>>> >>>>>> I've got: >>>>>> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) >>>>>> Black, and Shield to Ground IN >>>>>> Red to Speed Voltage IN >>>>>> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN >>>>>> Brown to nothing >>>>>> >>>>>> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no >>>>>> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be >>>>>> turning to get speed sentences? >>>>>> >>>>>> Dan >>>>>> Breakaweigh >>>>>> C >>>>>> Halifax, NS >>>>>> >>>>>> > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)... That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > What Ed says. > > I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. > > Dennis C. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Dan > > You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the > boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting > the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a > person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. > > Ed Levert > C 34 Briar Patch > New Orleans > > On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Thanks guys. >> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and >> there's no current lol. >> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it >> to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach >> under to spin the wheel manually... >> >> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so >> I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for >> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the >> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at >> all? not even a "0.0.0"? >> >> Dan >> >> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not >>> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. >>> >>> *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List >>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM >>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> *Cc:* Edward Levert >>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues >>> >>> Dan >>> >>> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar >>> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the >>> paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My >>> guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal >>> the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve >>> your problem. >>> >>> Ed Levert >>> C 34 Briar Patch >>> New Orleans >>> >>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm >>>> trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the >>>> issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you >>>> know where I'm going wrong? >>>> >>>> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" >>>> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. >>>> >>>> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav >>>> computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature >>>> data) >>>> >>>> I've got: >>>> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) >>>> Black, and Shield to Ground IN >>>> Red to Speed Voltage IN >>>> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN >>>> Brown to nothing >>>> >>>> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no >>>> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be >>>> turning to get speed sentences? >>>> >>>> Dan >>>>
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
What Ed says. I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go sailing. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List > wrote: > > Dan > > You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the > boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the > plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person > spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. > > Ed Levert > C 34 Briar Patch > New Orleans > >> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Thanks guys. >> Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and >> there's no current lol. >> I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to >> get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under >> to spin the wheel manually... >> >> Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I >> can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for >> "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the >> padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at >> all? not even a "0.0.0"? >> >> Dan >> >>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover >>> the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. >>> >>> From: Edward Levert via CnC-List >>> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM >>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> Cc: Edward Levert >>> Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues >>> >>> Dan >>> >>> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar >>> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the >>> paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My >>> guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal >>> the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve >>> your problem. >>> >>> Ed Levert >>> C 34 Briar Patch >>> New Orleans >>> >>>> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List >>>> wrote: >>>> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying >>>> to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is >>>> with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where >>>> I'm going wrong? >>>> >>>> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" >>>> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. >>>> >>>> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer >>>> and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) >>>> >>>> I've got: >>>> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) >>>> Black, and Shield to Ground IN >>>> Red to Speed Voltage IN >>>> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN >>>> Brown to nothing >>>> >>>> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no >>>> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be >>>> turning to get speed sentences? >>>> >>>> Dan >>>> Breakaweigh >>>> C >>>> Halifax, NS >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ___ >>>> >>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>> >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >>> every
Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan: If I understand you correctly, your speed instrument (digital) is not showing even a "0.00" when your turn it on. If that is the case, your issue is probably not the padwheel. My old Signet knot meter (34 years) reads 0.00 when the padwheel is not spinningit reads 0.00 as soon as I turn on the instrument. Rob Abbott AZURA C 32 - #277 Halifax, N.S. On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan You should have a plug which allows you to remove the transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: > Thanks guys. > Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and > there's no current lol. > I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it > to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach > under to spin the wheel manually... > > Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I > can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for > "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the > padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at > all? not even a "0.0.0"? > > Dan > > On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not >> discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. >> >> *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Edward Levert >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues >> >> Dan >> >> The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar >> transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the >> paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My >> guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal >> the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve >> your problem. >> >> Ed Levert >> C 34 Briar Patch >> New Orleans >> >> On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >>> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm >>> trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the >>> issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you >>> know where I'm going wrong? >>> >>> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" >>> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. >>> >>> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav >>> computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature >>> data) >>> >>> I've got: >>> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) >>> Black, and Shield to Ground IN >>> Red to Speed Voltage IN >>> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN >>> Brown to nothing >>> >>> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no >>> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be >>> turning to get speed sentences? >>> >>> Dan >>> Breakaweigh >>> C >>> Halifax, NS >>> >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> -- >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Thanks guys. Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in the slip and there's no current lol. I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel manually... Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA 0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line. I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences at all? not even a "0.0.0"? Dan On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover > the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. > > *From:* Edward Levert via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Edward Levert > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues > > Dan > > The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar > transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the > paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My > guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal > the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve > your problem. > > Ed Levert > C 34 Briar Patch > New Orleans > > On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm >> trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the >> issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you >> know where I'm going wrong? >> >> ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" >> one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. >> >> With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav >> computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature >> data) >> >> I've got: >> GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) >> Black, and Shield to Ground IN >> Red to Speed Voltage IN >> Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN >> Brown to nothing >> >> With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no >> Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be >> turning to get speed sentences? >> >> Dan >> Breakaweigh >> C >> Halifax, NS >> >> >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> -- > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom paint. I did not discover the nature of the problem was until the boat was out of the water. From: Edward Levert via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edward Levert Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel issues Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong? ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) I've got: GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) Black, and Shield to Ground IN Red to Speed Voltage IN Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN Brown to nothing With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get speed sentences? Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My guess is that the build up of bottom paint was blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates. Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve your problem. Ed Levert C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: > Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying > to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is > with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where > I'm going wrong? > > ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" > one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. > > With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer > and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) > > I've got: > GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) > Black, and Shield to Ground IN > Red to Speed Voltage IN > Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN > Brown to nothing > > With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no > Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be > turning to get speed sentences? > > Dan > Breakaweigh > C > Halifax, NS > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List padwheel issues
Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature transducer that I'm trying to get working (again) with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the wiring so if any of you have this transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong? ***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty sure it's not the "smart sensor" one that is supposed to output NMEA2000 sentences directly. With my old system ONLY the green wire was hooked up to a B nav computer and the black and shield were connected to ground. (no temperature data) I've got: GREEN to Speed Pulse IN (not sure what "pulse" is ecactly) Black, and Shield to Ground IN Red to Speed Voltage IN Yellow/Red Stripe to Temp IN Brown to nothing With this configuration I'm getting Temperature NMEA sentences, but no Speed. Anyone know where I'm going wrong? Does the padwheel have to be turning to get speed sentences? Dan Breakaweigh C Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
