Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-29 Thread Phil Leigh

bobkoure;323670 Wrote: 
> And that one's -not- a switching power supply? Or does the "linear" part
> mean it's nicer to the power on your mains?

It is a linear with a large transformer in it...


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-29 Thread andynormancx

bobkoure;323670 Wrote: 
> And that one's -not- a switching power supply? Or does the "linear" part
> mean it's nicer to the power on your mains?

The linear bit tells you that it isn't a switch mode power supply.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply#Linear_power_supply


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-28 Thread bobkoure

And that one's -not- a switching power supply? Or does the "linear" part
mean it's nicer to the power on your mains?


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-26 Thread Milhouse

For UK owners, I found 'this old'
(http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?p=81254#post81254) forum
thread which recommends a 'regulated 5V (1500ma) linear PSU'
(http://cpc.farnell.com/PW00187/batteries-power-supplies/product.us0?sku=unbranded-ad-05150r)
from CPC for £14.51 ex VAT - seems like it might be worth a punt if the
standard switched PSU puts so much noise back onto the mains. Note that
the CPC linear supply is substantially bigger than the standard PSU!


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-26 Thread bobkoure

Browny;38 Wrote: 
> My testing has found that the power supply for the SB3 (a switcher?)
> sprays RF on the mains and drops the throughput on the Homeplug
> adapters when plugged into the same socket as the SB3.
Seems like it'd be easiest to just replace that PS with a
non-switcher.

I started out a few years ago (well, ten or so) not wanting to throw
away the PSs on some gear I was discarding. So I started a box. About
five years ago it grew into an exchange - my neighbors (I live in a
cohousing community) bring me their old PSs - and if they need one for
something they come rummage through my crates... so I may be
overstating the ease of finding a non-switching PS.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-25 Thread Peter


bigfool1956 wrote:
>
> This is only relevant if the OP is in North America, in the UK and the
> rest of Europe virtually no homes have 2 or 3 phases connected, and if
> they do the cross-phase voltage will be around 440V - which is
> extremely hazardous. Fingers out!
>   

I live in Holland (Europe) and I had two phases in my previous home.
I couldn't use my X10 modules in most of the house.

Regards,
Peter

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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-23 Thread cparker

bigfool1956;322267 Wrote: 
> See now here's another thing, because in the UK we use ring mains as
> standard, which wikipedia implies is pretty unique. This means we
> shouldn't have 'spurs', and it should actually be quite hard to find
> another socket in the same room that is not on the same ring. However
> DIY rewiring (maybe a previous owner) can change that situation.
> Generally though using a different socket in the same room of a UK
> house is identical to using the same socket.

While we are talking electrics
The latest regs for elecs in the UK are pushing towards radial rather
than ring circuits.  The advantage of the ring main is that the load is
reduced on the wire (ie. the chances of it going up in flames ;) as the
power can go either way around the ring, to that meaty 5kw fan heater.

You will normally have a number of radial circuits already, one for
your hot water cyclinder, one to your cooker etc.  So its not that much
different and is cheaper for house builders companies.

A spur takes its power from a ring main, so its affectively part of a
ring main, though you shouldnt spur from a spur unless you fuse it
correctly.

Note builders being builders, if you have an extension added to your
house, rather than rip up the floor to continue the ring main, they
will look in the ceiling and drop a spur from your upstairs ring main,
so one end of your room may indeed be on a different ring main.

Finally dont forget the Part P "gravy train", that you need to be
registered to be messing with some of your electrics anyway.. Though
when you move house normally the most you will be asked to have done by
the mortgage company is  a visual check of the consumer unit if you dont
have a certificate.

Anyway regarding wireless v homeplug.. I didnt notice any difference
myself, apart from the extra flashing from the network port keeps me
awake :)


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-23 Thread seanadams

Goodsounds;322276 Wrote: 
>  The crossover between the circuits is an interesting question, and I
> wonder if someone who knows something about it could say if it is
> feasible to make a homeplug connection across two circuits not on the
> same feed. In the US, does the connection done for a 220 circuit (like
> for an electric dryer) afford a pathway for the homeplug signal?

X10 devices have the same problem, albeit at much lower frequencies.
And indeed, turning on an electric dryer or range (causing the load to
create a path between the two phases) is a good way to test whether
signal integrity could be improved by a coupling device. Often just a
capacitor is all you need. You can get "passive couplers" that plug
into a dryer outlet, like this: http://www.smarthome.com/4816a2.html

They might help with homeplug too. Unless you install such a coupler,
the signals have to get across either by capacitive coupling in the
wiring and breaker panels, or perhaps by making it all the way back to
the distribution transformer. That doesn't work very well for X10, and
I'd expect it to work even worse for homeplug.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-23 Thread bigfool1956

In most UK houses you will be fine with homeplugs anywhere in the house,
bacause all the ring mains are joined at the consumer unit.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-23 Thread simbo

I'm running Homeplugs between downstairs (where the router is) and
upstairs (where the home PC is), as with all UK houses they're on
different circuits (i.e. separate fuses on the circuit board), and they
work fine. Mind you, we have one of those old fashioned fuseboxes with
bakelite fuse cases and graded wire. Not sure Id be so successful on
RCDs.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread Goodsounds

I remember fondly days past by when I too lived between Southhampton and
Vienna.  I visited the UK pretty regularly, and was amused to learn
about the electical practices that were so different from the US AND so
different from continental Europe - fused plugs, switched sockets, etc.
Don't know if it was right or wrong, but I was told at the time that
the British approach was cheaper and perhaps not as good (for reasons
not mentioned to me). 

My two SB3s work great wirelessly, so I have no homeplug experience. 
The crossover between the circuits is an interesting question, and I
wonder if someone who knows something about it could say if it is
feasible to make a homeplug connection across two circuits not on the
same feed. In the US, does the connection done for a 220 circuit (like
for an electric dryer) afford a pathway for the homeplug signal?


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread bigfool1956

Browny;38 Wrote: 
> My testing has found that the power supply for the SB3 (a switcher?)
> sprays RF on the mains and drops the throughput on the Homeplug
> adapters when plugged into the same socket as the SB3.
> 
> Have mananged to switch the SB3 power to a different spur from the
> fusebox - this is now working fine.
> 
> Food for thought??

See now here's another thing, because in the UK we use ring mains as
standard, which wikipedia implies is pretty unique. This means we
shouldn't have 'spurs', and it should actually be quite hard to find
another socket in the same room that is not on the same ring. However
DIY rewiring (maybe a previous owner) can change that situation.
Generally though using a different socket in the same room of a UK
house is identical to using the same socket.

On the point of 3 phase in the same room, obviously in the US the
potential even across two phases is less than the potential on a single
phase in Europe. Should be approximately 200V assuming each phase is
110V. Yes it can be fatal, but usually it isn't. 400V on the other hand
is survivable, but the odds are considerably less (been there, done
that, and boy does it hurt).

Going back to OP's original point, and adding to Sean's post, homeplugs
don't like electricity meters, and if you really have two lines in to
the house, however they are arranged, then the path from one line to
the other is likely to pass through the meter, which would have a
significant effect. In that case changing in the way Sean described
would have a benefit.


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David Ayers
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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread Browny

My testing has found that the power supply for the SB3 (a switcher?)
sprays RF on the mains and drops the throughput on the Homeplug
adapters when plugged into the same socket as the SB3.

Have mananged to switch the SB3 power to a different spur from the
fusebox - this is now working fine.

Food for thought??


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread seanadams

Goodsounds;322177 Wrote: 
> 
> "having outlets on different phases in the same room is risky"
> 
> This is standard practice in the US for residential wiring, for places
> like kitchens with higher demands. Typically each "box" is on one lead,
> so that the different phases would be completely separate (different
> wiring to different boxes). Among other reasons, this is done for load
> balancing - you want the fridge on a different line than the electric
> range, for example. 
> 

It also saves wire. A single 12/3 cable (2 hots, 1 neutral, and ground)
can carry twice as much power as a 12/2 (1 hot, 1 neutral, and ground).
The netural only needs to carry the difference between the current on
the two hots. In effect, you transmit 100% more power for only 33% more
copper.

Sharing a neutral has a significant safety risk which is that a break
in the neutral wire can cause one leg or the other to get pulled up
towards 240V.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread Goodsounds

Amen brother.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread Pat Farrell
Goodsounds wrote:
> "In the US, real three phase is only in industrial systems"
> 
> Well, this is ok but a bit misleading.  Most (maybe all?) US electical
> distribution is 3 phases from the power plant.  Look at transmission
> towers, normally you see the distribution wires in sets of 3.  Most
> residential neighborhood distribution is two phases only.  But this is
> still "real three phase" electricity distibution, to use your words,
> but often just two phases in a given neighborhood. Sometimes all three
> phases lead into an area, and then the phases are paired in the
> different combinations for sub-areas, again for load balancing.

If its owned and covered by the Power company, sounds industrial to me.

More precisely, I've never seen a US residential setup with three phase.
Once you head into the homeowner's land, its not three phase. What it is
out on the power pole before the step down transformers is pure "thar be
dragons" for me.

Someone up thread said that US domestic is not really two phase, its one
phase split, 120V per leg. I've heard this same distinction made by
Power EE's. I know that in a three phase system, there are three signals
that are pi/3 out of phase. In the domestic setting, there is no phase
shift at all.

But for me, this is academic. I just hire a professional electrician to
do this stuff.



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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread Goodsounds

I'm not a technical person, but I think some of the previous comments
have been a bit misleading. Please allow me to stick my nose in to
offer some observations, and thanks in advance for any corrections to
my contribution:

"having outlets on different phases in the same room is risky"

This is standard practice in the US for residential wiring, for places
like kitchens with higher demands. Typically each "box" is on one lead,
so that the different phases would be completely separate (different
wiring to different boxes). Among other reasons, this is done for load
balancing - you want the fridge on a different line than the electric
range, for example. 

"I guess in the US you need three phase supplies to stop high power
appliances, such as ovens and washers"

Historically, things like clothes washers in the US might be described
as using less power than European ones, despite the size difference. 
Mostly because European ones have always had water heating functions,
while US ones were only motors and pumps.  That is changing as Euro-
and world-designed models become more common in the US, so that water
heating functions are becoming more common in washers sold in the US. 

"In US homes, they run 240 AC in, and split it for most of the
outlets"

I think US drops are all 110 - a house gets two wires, each 110, which
are 220 if put together.  Not split in the house as far as I know.

"In the US, real three phase is only in industrial systems"

Well, this is ok but a bit misleading.  Most (maybe all?) US electical
distribution is 3 phases from the power plant.  Look at transmission
towers, normally you see the distribution wires in sets of 3.  Most
residential neighborhood distribution is two phases only.  But this is
still "real three phase" electricity distibution, to use your words,
but often just two phases in a given neighborhood. Sometimes all three
phases lead into an area, and then the phases are paired in the
different combinations for sub-areas, again for load balancing.
Commercial/industrial locations usually get three drops, sometimes it's
needed for certain equipment, otherwise it's just to accomodate the
higher load.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread Scott Gardner
Actually the typical U.S. home and small business does not have 2 or 3  
phase AC power. What we typically and incorrectly refer to as two  
phase power, or the two phases in our AC breaker panels is really a  
split single phase 240 VAC service. It would be appropriate to refer  
to this system as a 3-wire, single phase, mid-point neutral system.

-- Scott --


On Jul 22, 2008, at 8:44 AM, bigfool1956 wrote:

>
>
> I guess in the US you need three phase supplies to stop high power
> appliances, such as ovens and washers from drawing emourmous current,
> by upping the voltage.
>
>
> -- 
> bigfool1956
>
> David Ayers
> Music is what counts, hifi just helps us enjoy it more
> 
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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread musictappy

If it helps, I am in North America - El Paso, Texas to be precise. 
Thanks for the responses, the HDX101s are working so far, despite the
crummy readings on the network test.  As long as it plays properly, I'm
happy.  I just hope it keeps working!

Pat


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread Pat Farrell
bigfool1956 wrote:
> I guess in the US you need three phase supplies to stop high power
> appliances, such as ovens and washers from drawing emourmous current,
> by upping the voltage.

In the US, real three phase is only in industrial systems. I've never
seen it in a house.

In US homes, they run 240 AC in, and split it for most of the outlets,
lights, etc. So you run 240/2 or 120V for domestic stuff, with 240 V
only for heavy appliances like clothes dryers, electric stoves, and
water heaters.

As you say, with twice the voltage, the wires only carry half the
current for the same power.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread bigfool1956

st2lemans;322135 Wrote: 
> >>In Switzerland virtually all homes are connected to 3-phase.  Voltage
> difference between phases is 380V.  Different rooms are often on
> different phases.  My kitchen actually has outlets on three different
> phases, as I kept blowing the breaker when I tried to run the
> microwave, deepfryer, fridges, etc. all on one phase.
> 
> Tom

OK, I stand corrected about Switzerland. I have to say that (apart from
specifically designed 3-phase sockets for cookers etc) having outlets on
different phases in the same room is risky at best, and AFAIK illegal in
the UK. Reason: because you can have two phases within touching
distance, in the unlikely but possible event you have a fault in two
appliances you can get 380-440V straight through you. That tends to be
one's final mistake!

I guess in the US you need three phase supplies to stop high power
appliances, such as ovens and washers from drawing emourmous current,
by upping the voltage.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread simbo

andynormancx;322127 Wrote: 
> Do tell, I have a set of HDX101s sat in their box because they are
> hopeless on my mains.
Oh, seeing that you've asked. Full details 'here'
(http://forum1.netgear.com/showthread.php?t=7895), but here's the
rundown:

These devices can be accessed remotely (there's even a web UI if you
enable it!). One of the settings on there is for "notches". This is, in
effect, something enabled for UK boxes that ensures it complies with
European radio interferance laws. Switching this option off will
probably improve performance (possibly by as much as 50%) but could
upset your CB-radio-weilding neighbours. I, of course, do not condone
such actions. ;-)


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread T


>> This is only relevant if the OP is in North America, in the UK and the
>> rest of Europe virtually no homes have 2 or 3 phases connected, and if
>> they do the cross-phase voltage will be around 440V - which is
>> extremely hazardous. Fingers out!
In Switzerland virtually all homes are connected to 3-phase.  Voltage 
difference between phases is 380V.  Different rooms are often on 
different phases.  My kitchen actually has outlets on three different 
phases, as I kept blowing the breaker when I tried to run the microwave, 
deepfryer, fridges, etc. all on one phase.

Tom

 
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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread seanadams

bigfool1956;322115 Wrote: 
> This is only relevant if the OP is in North America,[...]

Can't you tell by his accent?


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread andynormancx

simbo;322123 Wrote: 
> I know of a good tweak to UK-based HDX101's that can have a dramatic
> impact on performance.
> 
Do tell, I have a set of HDX101s sat in their box because they are
hopeless on my mains.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread simbo

bigfool1956;322115 Wrote: 
> This is only relevant if the OP is in North America, in the UK and the
> rest of Europe virtually no homes have 2 or 3 phases connected, and if
> they do the cross-phase voltage will be around 440V - which is
> extremely hazardous. Fingers out!
If musictappy could tell us where he/she is it would help. I know of a
good tweak to UK-based HDX101's that can have a dramatic impact on
performance.

On a similar note, my SB3 mains adaptor has a detrimental impact on the
performance of my Homeplug network. Admittedly I haven't had the same
issue with my Duets adaptors.


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-22 Thread bigfool1956

seanadams;321923 Wrote: 
> If your homeplug adaptors are on opposing power line phases, then you
> may be able to get a vast improvement by making some minor changes to
> the wiring in your breaker panel. 
> 
> To figure out if they're on the same phase, first identify the breakers
> for the outlets that the homeplug adaptors are connected to.
> 
> Then measure with an AC voltmeter across two of those breakers*. If you
> get about 0V, they are on the same phase (good). If you get about 240V,
> they are on different phases.  To change the phase that a circuit is
> on, swap it with the wire going to the breaker immediately below it.
> (miniature "dual" breakers count as the same breaker here).
> 
> Swap wires as needed until all circuits powering homeplug devices
> measure 0V against each other. An electrician can do this for you in a
> few minutes. 
> 
> * you can also figure it out visually by counting spaces, but using a
> voltmeter is faster and more reliable.

This is only relevant if the OP is in North America, in the UK and the
rest of Europe virtually no homes have 2 or 3 phases connected, and if
they do the cross-phase voltage will be around 440V - which is
extremely hazardous. Fingers out!


-- 
bigfool1956

David Ayers
Music is what counts, hifi just helps us enjoy it more

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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-21 Thread Pat Farrell
seanadams wrote:
> To figure out if they're on the same phase, first identify the breakers
> for the outlets that the homeplug adaptors are connected to.
> 
> Then measure with an AC voltmeter across two of those breakers*. 

If you don't know what you are doing, please hire a qualified
electrician to do what Sean suggests.

Sticking random probes into live power is not a good idea.

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Pat Farrell
http://www.pfarrell.com/

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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-21 Thread seanadams

If your homeplug adaptors are on opposing power line phases, then you
may be able to get a vast improvement by making some minor changes to
the wiring in your breaker panel. 

To figure out if they're on the same phase, first identify the breakers
for the outlets that the homeplug adaptors are connected to.

Then measure with an AC voltmeter across two of those breakers*. If you
get about 0V, they are on the same phase (good). If you get about 240V,
they are on different phases.  To change the phase that a circuit is
on, swap it with the wire going to the breaker immediately below it.
(miniature "dual" breakers count as the same breaker here).

Swap wires as needed until all circuits powering homeplug devices
measure 0V against each other. An electrician can do this for you in a
few minutes. 

* you can also figure it out visually by counting spaces, but using a
voltmeter is faster and more reliable.


-- 
seanadams

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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-21 Thread musictappy

Thanks for the reply, I am hoping that will be the case in my situation.
I am a bit troubled by the crummy network test numbers that I am
seeing, but it is working better than wireless so far.  I hope I don't
run into problems in the future.

I would be curious to hear others experiences also.

Thanks, and keep the music playing!

Pat


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Re: [slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-20 Thread exile

I can't say I've ever done an official test with my netgear powerline
xe102's but I can attest to the fact that I have virtually perfect
connections on my three slimboxes-all of them connected via powerline.
I've had this setup running  consistently for about six months.


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[slim] Network Test: Wireless vs. Homeplug

2008-07-20 Thread musictappy

Hi Everyone,

I have an issue that I am trying to resolve.  I have a Duet, and am
running version 7.0.1 - 19705 of Squeeze Center.  I initially installed
the Duet wireless, (server computer wired to router, wireless connection
to Duet receiver) but was having occasional problems getting it to
properly play flac files.  It would work about 80% of the time, but
there were times when it would not be able to find my library, or would
stop playing.  I figured I was having interference issues, since I can
pick up about 4 other networks in my house.  I decided to try a set of
homeplugs to see if it would work better (Netgear HDX101).  I now have
the system set up ad hoc using the homeplugs.  It seems to work much
better now, as I have not had any dropouts in days.

My question though is about the Network Test in Squeeze Center.  When I
was running wireless, I would get very good Network Test results at the
1500 kbps rate (most were over 100% with just a few at 90%.)  With this
result, I was still getting dropouts though.  With the homeplugs, when I
run the 1500 kbps Network Test, my average reading is 40%, with quite a
few lower than this.  I do not hit 100% at all, yet my flac music files
seem to work better.  

I know I should be worrying about the final result (how it works), but
if this homeplug setup is not going to work well in the long run, I
want to be able to return them and not waste the money.  Has anyone
else seen this type of situation, and is it indeed cause for concern?

Thanks for the input.

Pat


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