Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
I just found out the the L-4B has the Harbach mod and the bleeder resistors were removed to eliminate excessive heat. Is there anything else I need to do to the power supply? Thanks! 73 de Bill K9BUB --- On Mon, 7/28/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 2:41 PM I would think 20A would be fine unless the run is long, then I'd opt for 30A. Be aware that pin arrangements for the plug and socket change for the various ratings. Even if the PS is working ok with the amp, I always replace the 5K 7wt resistor on the underside of the supply with a 5K equivalent, 20 watt rating. When the original resistor fails, it takes out the ALC pot that also contains the standby switch; these haven't been available for decades. -Original Message- From: Duane Calvin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 2:34 pm Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B I ran a 20A line for my Alpha 99. Works great. 73, Duane AC5AA At 01:23 PM 7/28/2008, you wrote: Just bought a Drake L-4B amp and while I am waiting for the amp to arrive I had the electrician over. He wants to know what everyone is running for their 240V line. 15, 20 or 30 amp service. Thanks! 73 de Bill K9BUB Duane Calvin, AC5AA Austin, Texas www.ac5aa.com The Famous, the Infamous, the Lame - in your browser. Get the TMZ Toolbar Now!
Re: [drakelist] Touch Paddle Electronic Keyers....
ron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Philip Grocki wrote: *Does anyone know if the TouchPaddle.com keyers will work with Drake "tube" transceivers? Are these keyers worth their cost in quality and endurance? Thank you.* ** ** *PHILIP* ** *AB8ZP* Download manual on-line to research your concerns. I never bought one but have used them. I find the faster you send, the easier (and more fun) it is to use. The darn things are just perfect sending machines. Ron wb1hga -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod
"Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 18:51:49 -0400, K8AC - k8ac wrote: >I'm sure there must be a good reason for wanting to transmit on the 2.5 MHz >band, but I'm just behind the times and don't know what it might be. I don' t think it's so much that, but transmit in the 5.0 MHz band could be desirable to some. 2.5 MHz comes along with it, so you get two for one. And I decided that I wanted to do it right. > At any >rate, I still think the best approach is to use an Aux board and they can >easily be homebrewed. I've got the AUX7 with homebrew modules for the WARC bands (and VLF), but I find myself just as often using those up/down buttons. To each his own, I guess. 73 -Jim NU0C -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
I ran a 30 amp (#10) line to my shack. It was all I had at the time.? I?wired a range cord set?to a pair of 20 Amp outlets in a pair of quad boxes. My 30S-1 is connected to one of these and the Drake C-1?power strip?is connected to the other.? The console has?a pair of 220 outlets on?the power strip which are controlled by the console.?Tihs gives me ability to have my L-4B and my L-7 connected at all times. The way my shack is designed, I can only use one amp at a time but it is possible to have all the fires lit and ready for instant use by simply selecting the driver rig, amp and antenna combination I want to use. Works great and not pulling anywhere near capacity if used as above. 73,? John,? W4AWM -Original Message- From: Bill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 4:52 pm Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B The guy I bought the amp from said the power supply was upgraded so this must be one of the things that was done. I can ask him and see if he knows. --- On Mon, 7/28/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 2:41 PM I would think 20A would be fine unless the run is long, then I'd opt for 30A.? Be aware that pin arrangements for the plug and socket change for the various ratings. Even if the PS is working ok with the amp, I always replace the 5K 7wt resistor on the underside of the supply with a 5K equivalent, 20 watt rating.? When the original resistor fails, it takes out the ALC pot that also contains the standby switch; these haven't been available for decades. -Original Message- From: Duane Calvin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 2:34 pm Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B I ran a 20A line for my Alpha 99.? Works great. 73,? Duane?? AC5AA At 01:23 PM 7/28/2008, you wrote: Just bought a Drake L-4B amp and while I am waiting for the amp to arrive I had the electrician over. He wants to know what everyone is running for their 240V line. 15, 20 or 30 amp service. ? Thanks! ? 73 de Bill K9BUB Duane Calvin, AC5AA Austin, Texas www.ac5aa.com The Famous, the Infamous, the Lame - in your browser. Get the TMZ Toolbar Now!
Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod
"K8AC - k8ac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I'm sure there must be a good reason for wanting to transmit on the 2.5 MHz band, but I'm just behind the times and don't know what it might be. At any rate, I still think the best approach is to use an Aux board and they can easily be homebrewed. One advantage to the Aux board approach is that the synthesizer is set to the correct 500 KHz segment and you don't have to hit the up or down buttons to get to the right band segments. That of course is true with the WARC bands when using an Aux board, but I seldom see it mentioned. 73, K8AC - Original Message - From: "Ron Wagner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 4:31 PM Subject: Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod Ron Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- FWIW, in John Loughmiller's (KB9AT) book "A Family Affair, the R L Drake Story" on page 145, Steve Rawling, G4ALG is credited as saying that "To enable the TR-7 to transmit on all frequencies 1.5-30 MHZ (excluding 2.5 and 5.0 Mhz bands) simply unsolder collector Q9001 on the DR7 board." I beleive Jim's thread was to be able to add those bands back in with his mods w/o defeating the out-of-lock inhibit. I know that my TR-7 (actually John's backup rig) is TX on all bands and the out-of-lock inhibit is not cut. I just tried CW on the 2.5 and 5 Mhz bands and it works fine. A caveat is that I do have an aux board installed with 10Mhz prgrammed. My aux switch it in the normal position. 73, Ron WD8SBB -- On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 03:26:20 -0400, Joe Pyles wrote: Simply remove Q9001 from the DR7 board accomplishes the same thing without cutting any traces and is easily reversed. This simply stops the TX inhibit signal from U9003 Ham Band PROM. 73, Joe KC9LAD. -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Touch Paddle Electronic Keyers....
I believe the manual for the keyers can be downloaded from their website - that should address the voltage/current limits and then you'll able to tell whether or not it's safe to use with the Drakes. The issue with these keyers is not their quality or endurance, but rather your ability to adapt to the keyer. I got to the point with one where I could send fairly well, but it was then very difficult to move back and forth between the touch paddle and a normal paddle. If you decided to never again use a regular paddle, perhaps you could adapt to the touch keyer and do well with it. I ended up selling mine. 73, K8AC - Original Message - From: Philip Grocki To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 3:54 PM Subject: [drakelist] Touch Paddle Electronic Keyers Does anyone know if the TouchPaddle.com keyers will work with Drake "tube" transceivers? Are these keyers worth their cost in quality and endurance? Thank you. PHILIP AB8ZP
Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod
"Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 16:31:03 -0400 (EDT), Ron Wagner wrote: >FWIW, in John Loughmiller's (KB9AT) book "A Family Affair, the R L Drake >Story" on page 145, Steve Rawling, G4ALG is credited as saying that "To >enable the TR-7 to transmit on all frequencies 1.5-30 MHZ (excluding 2.5 >and 5.0 Mhz bands) simply unsolder collector Q9001 on the DR7 board." That's correct, Ron. And I referenced G4ALG's mod in my post, as it was basically my starting point. The insulated jumper wire on the D.C. board traces back to the collector of Q9001 on the DR7, so it is the same mod at a different spot. I'd rather mess with the D.C. board than the DR7, it's easier to fix and the parts are easier to find if something goes wrong. >I beleive Jim's thread was to be able to add those bands back in with his >mods w/o defeating the out-of-lock inhibit. Again, correct. Thanks for the comments, Ron. 73 -Jim NU0C -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
The guy I bought the amp from said the power supply was upgraded so this must be one of the things that was done. I can ask him and see if he knows. --- On Mon, 7/28/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Monday, July 28, 2008, 2:41 PM I would think 20A would be fine unless the run is long, then I'd opt for 30A. Be aware that pin arrangements for the plug and socket change for the various ratings. Even if the PS is working ok with the amp, I always replace the 5K 7wt resistor on the underside of the supply with a 5K equivalent, 20 watt rating. When the original resistor fails, it takes out the ALC pot that also contains the standby switch; these haven't been available for decades. -Original Message- From: Duane Calvin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 2:34 pm Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B I ran a 20A line for my Alpha 99. Works great. 73, Duane AC5AA At 01:23 PM 7/28/2008, you wrote: Just bought a Drake L-4B amp and while I am waiting for the amp to arrive I had the electrician over. He wants to know what everyone is running for their 240V line. 15, 20 or 30 amp service. Thanks! 73 de Bill K9BUB Duane Calvin, AC5AA Austin, Texas www.ac5aa.com The Famous, the Infamous, the Lame - in your browser. Get the TMZ Toolbar Now!
Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod
Ron Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- FWIW, in John Loughmiller's (KB9AT) book "A Family Affair, the R L Drake Story" on page 145, Steve Rawling, G4ALG is credited as saying that "To enable the TR-7 to transmit on all frequencies 1.5-30 MHZ (excluding 2.5 and 5.0 Mhz bands) simply unsolder collector Q9001 on the DR7 board." I beleive Jim's thread was to be able to add those bands back in with his mods w/o defeating the out-of-lock inhibit. I know that my TR-7 (actually John's backup rig) is TX on all bands and the out-of-lock inhibit is not cut. I just tried CW on the 2.5 and 5 Mhz bands and it works fine. A caveat is that I do have an aux board installed with 10Mhz prgrammed. My aux switch it in the normal position. 73, Ron WD8SBB -- On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 03:26:20 -0400, Joe Pyles wrote: Simply remove Q9001 from the DR7 board accomplishes the same thing without cutting any traces and is easily reversed. This simply stops the TX inhibit signal from U9003 Ham Band PROM. 73, Joe KC9LAD. -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
"Don Cunningham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- No, actually I haven't, but was just thinking I should have said that. Still, the electrician(s) themselves are still a MAJOR cost around here. Maybe that's why I do most of it myself, hi. I would sure like to be outside working on my tower project, but unfortunately, it is 109.9 in the shade as I type this!!! Far too hot for an old guy, hi. 73, Don, WB5HAK -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Don - Have you priced copper wire lately!?!?!?!?!?!?? :-) Good advice, nonetheless. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Don Cunningham wrote: I ran #10 wire (30 amp capacity) then put a 20 amp breaker in it. I was figuring for the future, who knows what I'll want over here some day, hi. At the time of installation, wire is the cheapest expense, so better to oversize a bit than undersize and have to do it over!! 73, Don, WB5HAK -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Touch Paddle Electronic Keyers....
Does anyone know if the TouchPaddle.com keyers will work with Drake "tube" transceivers? Are these keyers worth their cost in quality and endurance? Thank you. PHILIP AB8ZP
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
I ran #10 wire (30 amp capacity) then put a 20 amp breaker in it. I was figuring for the future, who knows what I'll want over here some day, hi. At the time of installation, wire is the cheapest expense, so better to oversize a bit than undersize and have to do it over!! 73, Don, WB5HAK
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
I would think 20A would be fine unless the run is long, then I'd opt for 30A.? Be aware that pin arrangements for the plug and socket change for the various ratings. Even if the PS is working ok with the amp, I always replace the 5K 7wt resistor on the underside of the supply with a 5K equivalent, 20 watt rating.? When the original resistor fails, it takes out the ALC pot that also contains the standby switch; these haven't been available for decades. -Original Message- From: Duane Calvin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, 28 Jul 2008 2:34 pm Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B I ran a 20A line for my Alpha 99.? Works great. 73,? Duane?? AC5AA At 01:23 PM 7/28/2008, you wrote: Just bought a Drake L-4B amp and while I am waiting for the amp to arrive I had the electrician over. He wants to know what everyone is running for their 240V line. 15, 20 or 30 amp service. ? Thanks! ? 73 de Bill K9BUB Duane Calvin, AC5AA Austin, Texas www.ac5aa.com
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
A 15 amp line will handle your L-4B, but that's about all. I'd run a 20 or even a 30 amp line. Jim, W4PRO
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
I've used a 20 amp line for a couple of years. My L-4B works great. If you do the math (P=EI) at 20 amps you would have capacity for roughly 4800 watts which is at least DOUBLE the AC wattage needed for the L-4B for full RF output. 73, George K4GM Bill wrote: Just bought a Drake L-4B amp and while I am waiting for the amp to arrive I had the electrician over. He wants to know what everyone is running for their 240V line. 15, 20 or 30 amp service. Thanks! 73 de Bill K9BUB
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
Run 30 Amp. That way you will have the extra in the future if needed. Randy - Original Message - From: Bill To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 1:23 PM Subject: [drakelist] Drake L-4B Just bought a Drake L-4B amp and while I am waiting for the amp to arrive I had the electrician over. He wants to know what everyone is running for their 240V line. 15, 20 or 30 amp service. Thanks! 73 de Bill K9BUB No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.6/1577 - Release Date: 28.07.2008 6:55
Re: [drakelist] Drake L-4B
I ran a 20A line for my Alpha 99. Works great. 73, Duane AC5AA At 01:23 PM 7/28/2008, you wrote: Just bought a Drake L-4B amp and while I am waiting for the amp to arrive I had the electrician over. He wants to know what everyone is running for their 240V line. 15, 20 or 30 amp service. Thanks! 73 de Bill K9BUB Duane Calvin, AC5AA Austin, Texas www.ac5aa.com
[drakelist] Drake L-4B
Just bought a Drake L-4B amp and while I am waiting for the amp to arrive I had the electrician over. He wants to know what everyone is running for their 240V line. 15, 20 or 30 amp service. Thanks! 73 de Bill K9BUB
Re: [drakelist] Folks who own tee shirts with bullsye needed
Terry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Thom Let me know what you need I'll sure give it a shot 73 Terry W2TGR - Original Message - From: "Thom LaCosta" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 11:04 AM Subject: [drakelist] Folks who own tee shirts with bullsye needed Thom LaCosta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I'm looking for a small number of select folks who have some time and experience with mailing lists to help me. I believe that Mailman software has finally been installed correctly on my server. It was a real chore, as this particular control panel family never had mailman, but majordomo. Two of that use the control panel took on the chore of getting mailman to work without rendering majordomo inoperative (which has happened in other attempts). My participation was as the beta tester and documenter, which means for several days my blood pressure and blood sugar were greatly elevated. So, that's all done and now I want to see if it might make sense to move the drakelist to mailman. One obvious advantage for me is that that subscribers who have multiple bounces are place one hold. If you have some time and are willing to make a few posts and answer some from others, drop me a direct email. Thanks 73, Thom, k3hrn PS, the folks that maintain the archive have agreed to merge the newl ist with the old, as long as I promise not to make a switch every week. -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Folks who own tee shirts with bullsye needed
Thom LaCosta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I'm looking for a small number of select folks who have some time and experience with mailing lists to help me. I believe that Mailman software has finally been installed correctly on my server. It was a real chore, as this particular control panel family never had mailman, but majordomo. Two of that use the control panel took on the chore of getting mailman to work without rendering majordomo inoperative (which has happened in other attempts). My participation was as the beta tester and documenter, which means for several days my blood pressure and blood sugar were greatly elevated. So, that's all done and now I want to see if it might make sense to move the drakelist to mailman. One obvious advantage for me is that that subscribers who have multiple bounces are place one hold. If you have some time and are willing to make a few posts and answer some from others, drop me a direct email. Thanks 73, Thom, k3hrn PS, the folks that maintain the archive have agreed to merge the newl ist with the old, as long as I promise not to make a switch every week. -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] First Steps
I prefer to tune for minimum SWR rather than maximum forward power.? As the SWR goes up, the power reading becomes inaccurate on many meters/tuners.? Not sure this is for all meters though.? Too, minimum SWR serves to reduce the chances of the rig going into power foldback. -Original Message- From: David & Chris Drake <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 9:45 pm Subject: Re: [drakelist] First Steps "David & Chris Drake" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang? --? Hi Jason, and welcome back to the bands. Its difficult to tell where to start and I'm sure others out there will have separate opinions. I'd give it a try on 40 first. Without a dummy load, you'll have to look for a spot on the band that is inactive. Again, since this is the first time, set the resist, and reactance knobs mid way on the tuner. Then try to load up the t4x for max output or use the instructions in the manual. Once you get the t4 idling along, you can adjust the tuner for min. swr, or, as some do, maximum output on a wattmeter. Go back and forth until you are seeing the maximum output it will do. Best advise is to just give it a try, with very short tune up times, and tweaking as you go. You may have to go back and forth several times, so be patient until you get everything in resonance.? ? Also, you'll not find much action like you were used to a few years back. The noise you are hearing is common. We are at or very near the absolute low for the sunspot cycle, and you have to be pretty dedicated to make contacts these days. Its likely your rigs are fine, and just a victim of the times. It will get better, hopefully soon.? ? Its best to get a dummy load. Then you know you have a 50 ohm match, and then only have to worry about one thing at a time.? ? As for working on the rigs, you'll find lots of help here when you need it. Also refer to www.wb4hfn.com for lots of information and how to's. You'll also find links to others websites as well.? David? ? - Original Message - From: "Jason Bonnough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>? To: ? Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 9:23 PM? Subject: [drakelist] First Steps? ? > Jason Bonnough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist > gang? > --? > Hello all,? > I have been watching the list-serv for about a month now and I have a > > question for all that can help.? >? > I have been an amateur radio operator for a number of years but mostly > > active on 2M. Never on HF... I bought a R-4B and T-4BX a number of years > > ago in hopes that I would start to explore HF more than just the random > > perhaps yearly scan through SWL. But then I joined the Navy, (Became an ET > > whose primary duty was the URT-23Ds on a ship, HF Transmitters > > ironically...) and put my Drakes pretty much into storage. Also, in this > > time became an inactive ham due to my command being in Japan and I had no > > place to operate.? > Well, I am back in the states, have my own place and pretty much the first > > thing I did was pull the Drakes out of storage, set them up on a cheap > > coffee table (I have no furniture now and am slowly buying more.. no > desk!! > gonna build one soon...) and attached a ~75' wire as an antenna > through a > MFJ-16010 Random Wire Tuner. And to save space because I have no > room in an > apartment that doesn't like things hanging out of their > apartments (even on > the 2nd floor) I spun the wire in a somewhat diamond > shape using supports > from a cardboard box that I cut up so the cardboard > supports look like an > "X" with an inward spiraling wire.? > Anywho, after that detailed setup, here is my situation. I can hear some > > stations just fine, I even got a SWL QSL card from the Canadian Time > > Standard station CAN. but I'm afraid to test TX, especially without a > dummy > load. A hamfest will be coming up in September in my area and I plan > on > getting one there unless I can get one that I bought that is in storage > in > Oklahoma sent to me. (Rargh, I digress again.) I would like to try to > make > this system back into full operation both TX and RX. I have no test > > equipment other than a pocket mulitmeter from Radio Shack and well, on > very > limited budget. I have seen comments here about replacing caps and > such... > how can one tell when that is needed exactly? I have so much RF > noise in > the area, I cannot tell if its just ambient noise or bad > equipment... > Working on this stuff is no where near as easy as working on > the modular > designs of the URT-23D and really without an o-scope.. I feel > lost... I > like to see? > signals...? > Any suggestions on how to test and if necessary replace components on this > > stuff would be greatly appreciated. I really want to learn my system > inside > and out and am wil
Re: [drakelist] FS: Drake TR-22C Portable 2-mtr FM xcvr w/pics
In a message dated 7/27/2008 11:03:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Not a mod, that's the standard configuration. The radio was designed for > NiCads held in the two AA cases, > one four cell and one six cell. Alkaline could be used if another 4 cell > holder was substituted for the 6 cell > holder, but of course charging them was not recommended. > > 73 > > -Jim Hi Jim; Gee thanks for that info. I don't have the manual so I was'nt sure. Thanks es 73Rich WA2RQY/4(1961) - WPE2DNN(1959?) WA2RQY's "confusion Radio" Web-Page Http://members.aol.com/rlucch2098/index.html Ham Radio Manuals: http://myradioroom.com/hamradiomanuals.html Ol' Stuff Web-Page http://myradioroom.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] "Keep those heaters on"
Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod
"Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 03:26:20 -0400, Joe Pyles wrote: >Simply remove Q9001 from the DR7 board accomplishes the same thing without >cutting any traces and is easily reversed. >This simply stops the TX inhibit signal from U9003 Ham Band PROM. 73, Joe >KC9LAD. Q9001 is covered in my discussion. It's only half of the mod. I chose to do everything on the D.C board since that was where I was looking and it turned out to be very easy. 73 -Jim NU0C -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] List Owner Grumble(s)
Thom LaCosta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Every morning I check all my ham related email. Most of it I delete, 'cause I have little interest in the scores from the international bottle washing and tennis ball throwing filed events. But the email I can't really ignore are the error messages that come in about the mailing list. The majority of these messages are either that the user's inbox is full...or that the user account is no longer active. So, to let you know before the factif you let your mailbox fill up, I will delete your accountand of course, if your account isn't active on your ISP's end...I'll delete it. And the constant gripe...please don't subscribe from an address where you have that email forwarded to another address. If the second one goes bad...I get a bounce message...and I have not idea which list member is forwarding his/her email. [EMAIL PROTECTED] is a classic example. Sorry for the rantI'll crawl back under my rock. 73, Thom k3hrn -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod
Thom LaCosta <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Once this concept id finalized...if someone would be kind enough to document/diagam it, I can put it up on the web siteas they are lot of folks who visit there who are not "mailing list" people. Thanks, Thom k3hrn -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod
Simply remove Q9001 from the DR7 board accomplishes the same thing
without cutting any traces and is easily reversed.
This simply stops the TX inhibit signal from U9003 Ham Band PROM. 73,
Joe KC9LAD.
At 12:44 AM 7/28/2008, you wrote:
"Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Maybe this has been covered before somewhere, but I haven't seen it,
so here goes.
I was never happy with the "official" modification for allband
transmit with the TR7 because it disables the
out-of-lock (O.O.L.) transmit inhibit signal in the digital control
circuit as a side effect. This is the mod to cut
the trace between pins 11 of rows two and three on the parent board,
as described here:
http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/drakemod/tr7mod.html
The O.O.L. signal is there to prevent accidental out of band
transmissions should an unlock condition occur
in the PLL system. I didn't like the idea of killing it. The TX mod
described by G4ALG at
http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/tr7moremods.html (mod #15)
preserves the O.O.L. signal, but does not
allow transmit in the 2.5 or 5.0 MHz bands. Additionally, the TX mod
MUST NOT be done the "official" way
if the G4ALG power on transmit inhibit mod (mod #7, same page) is
also desired, as this modification
requires the O.O.L. signal to be functioning.
I decided to try to find the best of both worlds. It turned out that
it wasn't very difficult. Two cuts are required
on the digital control board. The first cut is to an insulated
jumper wire that lies right next to R221 on the
digital control board. It is the only insulated jumper on the board,
so it's hard to miss. This has the same
effect as unsoldering the collector of Q9001 on the DR7 board, as
described by G4ALG #15. The other cut
must be done to a circuit trace connecting two vias on the top side
of the digital control board. This trace is
located between U209 and R221, and is not connected to anything on
the top (component) side of the
board. Cutting this trace disables the H.B. ("Ham Band") signal from
the DR7 board. This fools the TR7 into
thinking that every band is a ham band, and transmission is now
possible in the 2.5 and 5.0 MHz bands.
After these two cuts are made, the pin 11 cut on the bottom of the
parent board must be reversed if it has
been implemented.
A marked up pic of the digital control board mod points is available
on request.
I also implemented the G4ALG power on transmit inhibit mod at this
time. This is a desirable mod,
especially for those who run transverters or satellite
downconverters ahead of the TR7. It kills the transmit
spike that can occur in the TR7 under certian conditions when powerd
on. I didn't have a 22 uF capacitor on
hand, so I used a 10 uF instead and still had plenty of delay at
power on. The parts were aerially mounted to
the bottom of the parent board and secured with hot glue. Pic
available on request.
Remember to observe ESD handling precautions when working with the
TR7, these parts are sensitive to
static damage. Use a grounded soldering iron. As usual, standard
disclaimers apply; this information is
accurate to the best of my knowledge, but I'm not responsible if you break it.
"Caution: transmission outside the allocated Amateur band
frequencies will require a license, other than an
amateur radio operator license, and may also require an FCC
certified transmitter. The TR7/TR7A is not an
FCC certified transmitter/receiver. " - PSA copied from the
Drakelist web site.
73
-Jim
NU0C
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