[Drakelist] SCC-4 Calibrator
I'm still looking for one. Reply b...@nofrowns.net. Tnx 73 to all, Bob AG5X ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] TR-4C Microphone
Hi group, My crysral element went bad in my old D-104. What would you recommend to replace it and have good transmit audio with my TR-4C. Thanks, Don ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C Microphone
Hi Don, Some guy had a bunch of mic elements a short while ago on eBay that he claimed were replacements (albeit physically smaller) for the crystal cartridges inside the D-104... They were priced right, too, as I recall (a single digit)---but they looked like the old made-in-Japan-type of mic element that used to be a staple item at Radio Shack in days of yore, IMHO... ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ** - Original Message - From: Don Miller To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, February 28, 2011 1:38 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4C Microphone Hi group, My crysral element went bad in my old D-104. What would you recommend to replace it and have good transmit audio with my TR-4C. Thanks, Don ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Ran into another subtle issue with my R-4B. The neon dial lamp would not fire when the R-4B was plugged into inrush limiter (sold by Electric Radio Mag.) Since DC is used on the lamp, only one of the two elements glows. The fix? I could have replaced the lamp, but I simply swapped the neon lamp leads on the PCB. Now, the other side has a turn at glowing for the next 45 years. This may be old news, but a new discovery for me... The R-4B is now in pieces on the bench. I'm about half-way complete with installing the Sherwood Power Supply upgrade and Sherwood AF amp. The job isn't quite as seamless as it is with the R-4C, but with a few changes, it should work fine. There's little to be gained with the Sherwood PS board except that it contains some parts to assist with the addition of a 7812 regulator needed for the Sherwood AF amp. The old PS board was pretty well cooked but perfectly usable. The power transformer is leaving its home on the chassis and is being mounted on a separate Bud chassis with AC controlled from the R-4B power switch. An eight- conductor cable is being constructed to handle the filament current. I had a Helluva' time finding multi-conductor cable by the foot -- so I've made my own using individual #18 AWG wire and ultraflex 3M heat-shrink tubing. Will probably use a Cinch-Jones connector on the new transformer chassis, or Molex. Between the power transformer and AF output tube, my R-4B runs like a furnace -- and too close to the PTO for my comfort level. After the changes, the cabinet temperature should drop down close to a Sherwood-modified R-4C. I'll post links to photos after completion. Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C Microphone
Don, I use Shure 444D microphones with my Drakes and have always received good reports. Wyatt On Mon, Feb 28, 2011 at 12:38 PM, Don Miller k4...@hotmail.com wrote: Hi group, My crysral element went bad in my old D-104. What would you recommend to replace it and have good transmit audio with my TR-4C. Thanks, Don ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Raspy audio in 2C
A little poking around found the problem - some oxidation causing a poor contact in the speaker rca jack. Problem solved with a good scrubbing with some #400 sandpaper.___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C Microphone
I use a sure 444 and it works fine. My friend w2eny sells replacement mic elements for the d104 google him. George ne2i On Feb 28, 2011, at 1:38 PM, Don Miller k4...@hotmail.com wrote: Hi group, My crysral element went bad in my old D-104. What would you recommend to replace it and have good transmit audio with my TR-4C. Thanks, Don ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Paul - Sounds like you have quite a project!! Re the neon 'PTO in Use' lamp. The failure to fire is not because of the electrode 'wearing out', rather a result of 'gas', including outgassing of the electrode, causing the firing voltage to increase. The 'almost official' Drake fix was to remove R150 to allow the firing voltage to increase past ~ 2/3 of the 150V DC bus. I ran three Drake 4 A/B-Line stations 24/7 for almost 5 years back in the 70's for autostart RTTY on 20M. The transmitters had exhaust fans on the back of the PA cage, but all else was 'standard'. I did not have a single failure in any of the receivers, and only one 12BY7 in the transmitters that had an open filament. The transmitters often ran in full power transmit for 30 minutes or more. The PA tubes lasted about two to three years before the output dropped to 100W on 20M. I still use one of the receivers as my 'daily driver', and it has had a 6EH5 and two 12BA6's replaced. The 4-Line receivers do run extremely hot, with the transformer 'too hot to hold your hand on'. However, in 50+ years of owning and repairing 'LOTS' of them, the only power transformer failures I have seen were the result of failed electrolytics, accompanied by a 10A fuse. One had a piece of #8 solid copper wire in the fuse holder.! I'm looking forward to seeing your pix. Sounds great! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Paul Christensen wrote: Ran into another subtle issue with my R-4B. The neon dial lamp would not fire when the R-4B was plugged into inrush limiter (sold by Electric Radio Mag.) Since DC is used on the lamp, only one of the two elements glows. The fix? I could have replaced the lamp, but I simply swapped the neon lamp leads on the PCB. Now, the other side has a turn at glowing for the next 45 years. This may be old news, but a new discovery for me... The R-4B is now in pieces on the bench. I'm about half-way complete with installing the Sherwood Power Supply upgrade and Sherwood AF amp. The job isn't quite as seamless as it is with the R-4C, but with a few changes, it should work fine. There's little to be gained with the Sherwood PS board except that it contains some parts to assist with the addition of a 7812 regulator needed for the Sherwood AF amp. The old PS board was pretty well cooked but perfectly usable. The power transformer is leaving its home on the chassis and is being mounted on a separate Bud chassis with AC controlled from the R-4B power switch. An eight- conductor cable is being constructed to handle the filament current. I had a Helluva' time finding multi-conductor cable by the foot -- so I've made my own using individual #18 AWG wire and ultraflex 3M heat-shrink tubing. Will probably use a Cinch-Jones connector on the new transformer chassis, or Molex. Between the power transformer and AF output tube, my R-4B runs like a furnace -- and too close to the PTO for my comfort level. After the changes, the cabinet temperature should drop down close to a Sherwood-modified R-4C. I'll post links to photos after completion. Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4B
Gary, I find that putting modifications together on paper isn't the problem -- what's tough is documenting everything well enough so that I can go back some time later and not look at it like it's the first time. What seems trivial on paper during this exercise has resulted in something like 50 wires all unterminated. You would not want to see this R-4B right now. I am using tye-wraps with label flags to later help me understand where the wire comes from and where it's going. In the past, I've started projects like this only to come back a month later and it looked like someone else's work until began to re-familiarize myself with all the changes. I think the only tricky part to this mod is ensuring that R130 is adequately bypassed on both sides of the resistor with short, low-Z connections from film caps to ground. +12V that feeds the new AF amp will also be used to activate the BFO at Q6. C173 is definitely there for a reason and it's not just filtering. As long as I'm cognizant of this limitation, it should be fine. Worst case will be to add a dedicated 7812 for the BFO. Characteristic of Drake, the present +12V to Q6 is dropped from a lossy divider network (R136, R137) from +150V and yeah it sure gets hot too. I'm also going to experiment with increasing C187 from 0.1 uF to 1.0 uF. The present -3 dB turnover point (0.1 uF into 3K) calculates to a low end audio response of 530 Hz. It's actually a function of the AF control wiper arm location looking into the base of Q7 but that's the best case. So, at 250 Hz, audio is already down almost 10 dB. 250 Hz is about the lower limit of reasonable communications audio quality. I like to hit 100 Hz, when possible and when the receiver's IF filtering will allow it. If increasing C187 introduces too much hum into the receiver's audio, I'll settle for a cap value in between. BTW, thanks for the info on the neon lamp! Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] restoring
Geoffrey I think the real issue here is that with proper care taken during preparation you can successfully use a water method to clean your Drake equipment and bring them back to an almost new appearance. With proper planning, preparation, patience and care this process will yield very successful results. Does that include a dishwasher, well that would take preparation on the part of the person thinking of using a dishwasher, will the water leave more behind than it takes off? That's planning and preparation. Will this method cause damage to your equipment? Again, that's planning and preparation by making sure you protect those items that water will damage like meters and such. Like they say, secrets in the sauce with this method there really is no secret with exception of those things mentioned; Planning, Preparation, Patience, and care. There are some guys I've met who just have a gift in repairing equipment, almost supernatural! I know one guy who 50% of the repair cases I've seen him work on he was successful without having schematic just because he knows what he's doing and has the patience to methodically work though problems and uses the process of symptoms to evaluate and correct issues. This is the same procedure we all need to use when tackling restoration projects. Like testing the radio before dissembling it to make sure it works before the cleaning process to minimize chasing your tail thinking the water did something when actually it had nothing to do with the water. All the best Geoffrey and now let the debate of water vs no water began... again ;-) -.. . WA6HYQ -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of geoffrey mendelson Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 1:00 AM To: Drake List Subject: Re: [Drakelist] restoring On Feb 25, 2011, at 9:44 AM, John Hudson wrote: then the unit is power washed with clean distilled water ^ So the dishwasher is not a bad idea provided you don't use the soap, and not sure how simple green would work in a dishwasher. Actually it's a horrible idea. Dishwasher water is municipal water loaded with minerals, chlorine and that favorite of the commies, flouride. (just joking about the commie part). I read on one of these lists that the water used by Techtronics to wash their repairs was naturally pure well water and almost the same as de-ionized water. A far cry from municipal water. Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Dishwasher trick
In case you have not heard, dishwasher soap has been changed in the last year. There are no more phosphates in them, the stuff won't even clean my tea cup,let alone a radio chassis. 73 Bud W0HG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Weighted knobs
Where can I find weighted knobs for Drakes and other radios? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Dishwasher trick
- Original Message - From: kc9...@aol.com To: sebd...@comcast.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, February 28, 2011 7:05 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Dishwasher trick Yep, May as well just use hot water by itself... 73, Lee The detergent is still a good wetting agent (AKA surfactant) which will help cleaning. If you want a phosphate you can add that in the form of TSP which is still available in many hardware stores. It doesn't take much to boost a detergent. To remove oxidation you can use something specific which contains a reducing agent. The most commonly used ones are oxalic acid and phosphoric acid. Many products contain one or the other. Oxalic acid is in Barkeeper's Friend and Zud, and phosporic acid in Naval Jelly, Tarn-X and many tile cleaners. Again, it doesn't take much. My worry about using a dishwasher is that they are meant to sterilize the dishes meaning that they must subject them to a substantial amount of heat. Perhaps not as hot as an autoclave (around 250F) but I would certainly find out _how_ hot before putting anything in one. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...................
My T-4XC has different Pout depending on the position of the transceive switch and in the CW Mode. With transceive swith set on separate Gain is at 2:30 Plate current is 300 ma Pout is 100 watts With transceive switch set on rcvr Gain is at 2:30 Plate current is 320 ma Pout is 117 watt When transceive switch is on xmtr Gain is at 2:30 Plate current is 140 ma Pout is 19 watts When transceive switch is on xmtr Gain is at 5:00 (fully clockwise) Palte current is 320 ma Pout is 117 watts What is pecular is that Pout when seperate compared to Pout when xmtr supposedly uses the same oscillator signal for drive. I did not see anything in the manual that looks like there is an alignment step for this. Comments? Thanks Jim___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...
Two tips, First hit the switch with Deoxite. Second double check the cables you are using. I believe the INJ, CARRIER, and one other cable need to be a special low loss double shielded cable. Some of the resident experts will chime in I hope and correct any miss-information I might be spreading. Don Jones KO7i Arlington, WA Message: 8 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 21:48:01 -0800 From: Jim Bo jbol...@verizon.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies... Message-ID: 689C305DD4144A1F8096AFDD0907740A@JDESK Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 My T-4XC has different Pout depending on the position of the transceive switch and in the CW Mode. With transceive swith set on separate Gain is at 2:30 Plate current is 300 ma Pout is 100 watts With transceive switch set on rcvr Gain is at 2:30 Plate current is 320 ma Pout is 117 watt When transceive switch is on xmtr Gain is at 2:30 Plate current is 140 ma Pout is 19 watts When transceive switch is on xmtr Gain is at 5:00 (fully clockwise) Palte current is 320 ma Pout is 117 watts What is pecular is that Pout when seperate compared to Pout when xmtr supposedly uses the same oscillator signal for drive. I did not see anything in the manual that looks like there is an alignment step for this. Comments? Thanks Jim ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Dishwasher trick
Re: the stuff won't even clean my tea cup, let alone a radio chassis. 73 Bud W0HG Bud wins! Good one! Still laughing! You-all have read my sea story about the old Gunny and his garden hose and that Collins gear. While it is a true story, I still have some concerns. You won't see me posting a you tube video of me and my garden hose and my prized Sherwood R-4C out in the backyard this spring giving a bath. #1 the VFO grease that is used in our beloved radios. The hot rinse cycle would not do your vfo's any favors. #2 the high humidity (100%) would put power transformers at risk. I am still a chicken, about as far as I would go is to use my electric toothbrush with a suitable cleaning compound and a little water on the brush to scrub up the upper deck of a radio. The underside of a the drake rigs is too busy with point to point wiring for scrubbing with a tooth brush. Time to be real and get honest with ourselves. If you want pristine collector grade appearance hire a professional and ante up. Don Jones KO7i Arlington, WA ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
