Re: [Drakelist] R4C PTO Brass Gears replacement
Just my opinion, but I think the metal gears are way over valued. I still think they were a cost cutting measure when they ran out of nylon gears near the end of the production cycle. Nylon gears themselves are inexpensive, but the tooling to manufacture them is quite expensive. If the tooling 'wears out or is lost or broken, metal gears from stock look a lot more attractive. The metal gears have a 'grainy' feeling to me, while the nylon ones are smooth as glass. When the nylon gears are 'soaked' in oil, it sometimes becomes necessary to re-do the 'Smooth as Glass' process on 'hfn after they have swollen a bit more. Opinions are like ... well, you know. -- 73, Garey - K4OAH St Charles, IL Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs kc9...@aol.com wrote: Rich, Based on my experience...clean those gears with soap & water & use a stiff brush to be sure NO old gread, dirt etc is in the very bottem of the teeth. Maybe you have already done this...if so maybe there is still oil in the plastic? 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Rich Hallman - N7TR To: drakelist Sent: Sat, Dec 17, 2011 11:54 am Subject: [Drakelist] R4C PTO Brass Gears replacement Ive had my R4C PTO rebuilt about 8 months ago and the PTO tuning felt great. Before the rebuild it would stick and would have different tightness as I tuned. I hadn't used the rig for a few months and turned it on last night and I have the same issue again. Wanted to know if anyone changed out the nylon gears for the brass set? I think the nylon gears keep swelling on me. And yes, the oil was removed during the first rebuild. Also...does anyone have a set of brass gears or an old broke PTO with a set of brass gears on it that they would like to sell. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4C PTO Brass Gears replacement
Hi Rich, I agree with you that the metalNylon assemblies seem to have a smoother feeling with less sloppiness. I don't know if the all-Nylon gears degrade over time or if they came that way from Drake. I changed a set to metal/Nylon gears back last spring. I was first going to attempt a change of gears, but I decided to simply swap out entire PTO assemblies from a late C line that was in less than average cosmetic condition. That's a very easy job. Just a few wires are unsoldered, three screws removed, and the whole PTO assembly with dials comes out. No calibration, no worry about gears meshing and tracking properly, etc. After changing out one assembly and learning from it, another can be done in just a couple minutes. Paul, W9AC - Original Message - From: "Rich Hallman - N7TR" To: Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 11:53 AM Subject: [Drakelist] R4C PTO Brass Gears replacement Ive had my R4C PTO rebuilt about 8 months ago and the PTO tuning felt great. Before the rebuild it would stick and would have different tightness as I tuned. I hadn't used the rig for a few months and turned it on last night and I have the same issue again. Wanted to know if anyone changed out the nylon gears for the brass set? I think the nylon gears keep swelling on me. And yes, the oil was removed during the first rebuild. Also...does anyone have a set of brass gears or an old broke PTO with a set of brass gears on it that they would like to sell. Thanks... Rich Rich N7TR ex KI3V, N3AMK, WB3JOV www.n7tr.com Telnet: dxc.n7tr.com N7TR DXCluster ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 5 watt levels
Hi Ron, I asked a similar question recently about SSB QRP with Drake equipment. I think some of the thread applies to CW. As usual, Garey and Jim provided good info. Here's the link: http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg17173.html 73, Bob K6GGO Hello, I wonder if anyone has tried to lower the drive to match 5 watt output level for QRP work. It think Drakes will make a excellent QRP rig. Of course I will run it at "normal" settings when not qrp'ing. 73 Ron, wb1hga ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 5 watt levels
Hello Ron and Don and everyone, I used my TR-4Cw for QRP work on both CW and SSB. My approach was to tune it up on a dumy load, then through a w-4 watt meter (not really designed for QRP but it was what I had overseas) tune again to match the rig to the antenna (nothing like a Pi-Network on those rigs for slight mismataches). Then, while in CW key down, I reduced the XMITR GAIN until it was at the 5 Watt level for CW. For SSB I'd whistle and add a tad of gain to move the meter to 10 watts, then I'd watch the meter once in QSO on SSB. How accurate that was, I do not know, but it was low output, no attenuators. Waste, inefficiency, and the carbon foot print? Oh, about the size that a Yeti leaves in new fallen snow! BTW Later I bought a TT Delta II (big sister to the Argo II) and there the output control was more accurate and appropriate than the Drake setup. Plus it would do the 100 Watts that I needed for reaching home in the US and the research stations in the mountains. Kris (KM2KM - where resonance is a way of life, but still fitting square pegs into round holes!) - Original Message - From: "ron" To: "Don Cunningham" Cc: Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 12:49 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] 5 watt levels On 12/17/2011 12:41 PM, Don Cunningham wrote: Ron, I would think that the only "reliable" way to accomplish QRP with the Drake rigs (assuming the 4 line tube rigs mostly) would be to build up a good transmitting attenuator pad and "use up" the wattage in that pad. Many examples can be found in old Johnson literature designed to let their many transmitters feed the "kilowatt desk" amp they built. I'm planning to do that to feed some of my transmitters into my Alpha amp which needs a low drive level. You do need to watch for "overshoot" upon initial keying, I am told in some literature. Otherwise, the old dummy load (light bulb if you want to see your keying) on the end of a coax "tee", then use the small sampling used normally to "see" the signal on an oscilloscope, might be just enough power to suit your needs. Either way "wastes" the power, but could heat and briefly light your shack, hi hi. (Tongue firmly in cheek). 73, Don, WB5HAK Ah ... I was afraid of something like that. The efficiency would be reduced as wasted energy. No matter, I do have some QRP rigs for the task and will keep the TR4C power level "honest". (smile) 73 Ron, wb1hga ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4C PTO Brass Gears replacement
Rich, Based on my experience...clean those gears with soap & water & use a stiff brush to be sure NO old gread, dirt etc is in the very bottem of the teeth. Maybe you have already done this...if so maybe there is still oil in the plastic? 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Rich Hallman - N7TR To: drakelist Sent: Sat, Dec 17, 2011 11:54 am Subject: [Drakelist] R4C PTO Brass Gears replacement Ive had my R4C PTO rebuilt about 8 months ago and the PTO tuning felt great. Before the rebuild it would stick and would have different tightness as I tuned. I hadn't used the rig for a few months and turned it on last night and I have the same issue again. Wanted to know if anyone changed out the nylon gears for the brass set? I think the nylon gears keep swelling on me. And yes, the oil was removed during the first rebuild. Also...does anyone have a set of brass gears or an old broke PTO with a set of brass gears on it that they would like to sell. Thanks... Rich Rich N7TR ex KI3V, N3AMK, WB3JOV www.n7tr.com Telnet: dxc.n7tr.com N7TR DXCluster ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 5 watt levels
I used to use the non-inductive resistive T pads between the T4 and amp (a tetrode amp--low drive). Also used that for a little QRP. But recently have been really loving the Anaren monolithic 50 ohm attenuators. They can be had in many ratings and values. I use 10dB 100W. Mounted on a heat sink, small fan if you really want to, and they are magic. Super small also. 1/2" x 3/4 by about 3/16 thick. You can often find them on the e&*y for cheap. Light bulbs are usable but they change value as they light up. 50 ohm dummy loads work too but if you connect an antenna to it with a T, the impedance that the Tx sees is now only 25ohms. I used the Anaren unit to get the TR7 down into the 50mW range last year for the SKCC QRP challenge--lowest cumulative power used to work all districts with bonus for HI and AK. My cum was way less than 5W and I managed AK with 75mW. And all the 10 continentals were non-scheduled. Measurement becomes a bit of an issue below a few watts. Have fun! Happy Holidays! FWIW Curt KU8L. On 12/17/2011 12:41 PM, Don Cunningham wrote: Ron, I would think that the only "reliable" way to accomplish QRP with the Drake rigs (assuming the 4 line tube rigs mostly) would be to build up a good transmitting attenuator pad and "use up" the wattage in that pad. Many examples can be found in old Johnson literature designed to let their many transmitters feed the "kilowatt desk" amp they built. I'm planning to do that to feed some of my transmitters into my Alpha amp which needs a low drive level. You do need to watch for "overshoot" upon initial keying, I am told in some literature. Otherwise, the old dummy load (light bulb if you want to see your keying) on the end of a coax "tee", then use the small sampling used normally to "see" the signal on an oscilloscope, might be just enough power to suit your needs. Either way "wastes" the power, but could heat and briefly light your shack, hi hi. (Tongue firmly in cheek). 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 5 watt levels
On 12/17/2011 12:41 PM, Don Cunningham wrote: Ron, I would think that the only "reliable" way to accomplish QRP with the Drake rigs (assuming the 4 line tube rigs mostly) would be to build up a good transmitting attenuator pad and "use up" the wattage in that pad. Many examples can be found in old Johnson literature designed to let their many transmitters feed the "kilowatt desk" amp they built. I'm planning to do that to feed some of my transmitters into my Alpha amp which needs a low drive level. You do need to watch for "overshoot" upon initial keying, I am told in some literature. Otherwise, the old dummy load (light bulb if you want to see your keying) on the end of a coax "tee", then use the small sampling used normally to "see" the signal on an oscilloscope, might be just enough power to suit your needs. Either way "wastes" the power, but could heat and briefly light your shack, hi hi. (Tongue firmly in cheek). 73, Don, WB5HAK Ah ... I was afraid of something like that. The efficiency would be reduced as wasted energy. No matter, I do have some QRP rigs for the task and will keep the TR4C power level "honest". (smile) 73 Ron, wb1hga ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 5 watt levels
Ron, I would think that the only "reliable" way to accomplish QRP with the Drake rigs (assuming the 4 line tube rigs mostly) would be to build up a good transmitting attenuator pad and "use up" the wattage in that pad. Many examples can be found in old Johnson literature designed to let their many transmitters feed the "kilowatt desk" amp they built. I'm planning to do that to feed some of my transmitters into my Alpha amp which needs a low drive level. You do need to watch for "overshoot" upon initial keying, I am told in some literature. Otherwise, the old dummy load (light bulb if you want to see your keying) on the end of a coax "tee", then use the small sampling used normally to "see" the signal on an oscilloscope, might be just enough power to suit your needs. Either way "wastes" the power, but could heat and briefly light your shack, hi hi. (Tongue firmly in cheek). 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] 5 watt levels
Hello, I wonder if anyone has tried to lower the drive to match 5 watt output level for QRP work. It think Drakes will make a excellent QRP rig. Of course I will run it at "normal" settings when not qrp'ing. 73 Ron, wb1hga ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] R4C PTO Brass Gears replacement
Ive had my R4C PTO rebuilt about 8 months ago and the PTO tuning felt great. Before the rebuild it would stick and would have different tightness as I tuned. I hadn't used the rig for a few months and turned it on last night and I have the same issue again. Wanted to know if anyone changed out the nylon gears for the brass set? I think the nylon gears keep swelling on me. And yes, the oil was removed during the first rebuild. Also...does anyone have a set of brass gears or an old broke PTO with a set of brass gears on it that they would like to sell. Thanks... Rich Rich N7TR ex KI3V, N3AMK, WB3JOV www.n7tr.com Telnet: dxc.n7tr.com N7TR DXCluster ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
