Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed

[Garey Barrell]

Mark -

Absolutely NO denigration of your modification.  Well thought and and perfectly 
executed.

Re #1 below, I'm not sure what 'script'  is supposed to be??

The multi-switch computer 'Power Center' helps with the multi-station setup.  A single strip is a 
little cumbersome for more than one station.  One approach would be to have one strip for receivers, 
and another for just transmitters.  Your relay is simpler!  :-)


Thanks for sharing and documenting!!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Mark Pilant wrote:

Hi Bob/Garey.

I've used the switched strip as well.  Unfortunately I find there
are two problems:

   1)   Finding a place where the script can be conveniently
switched on and off.
   2)   There are usually more things plugged in which would be
switched than I would like.  Which would probably lead
to an over abundance of switched strips :-)

So I opted to do the relay.  Relatively cheap from DigiKey (under
$10; without S&H) especially if ordering other parts.  Best of all
it is easily reversible if I ever want/need to.

73

- Mark  N1VQW




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed

[Mark Pilant]

Hi Bob/Garey.

I've used the switched strip as well.  Unfortunately I find there
are two problems:

   1)   Finding a place where the script can be conveniently
switched on and off.
   2)   There are usually more things plugged in which would be
switched than I would like.  Which would probably lead
to an over abundance of switched strips :-)

So I opted to do the relay.  Relatively cheap from DigiKey (under
$10; without S&H) especially if ordering other parts.  Best of all
it is easily reversible if I ever want/need to.

73

- Mark  N1VQW

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

[Garey Barrell]

Curt -

The 4 Line receivers have Ground - 6V - 12V. So one 12V line is grounded. The R-4C has only 6 VAC 
filaments.


The transmitters and TR-(any) have only a single 12 VAC filament supply. Be careful where you get 
the voltage here, as there are several series string arrangements to power 6 VAC tubes.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Curt wrote:
BE VERY CAREFULIn many (most?) of the 4 line, the 12V filament circuit has its center tap 
grounded so the 6v filaments work from each half of the 12V winding to ground.


If you ground either side of the 12V line to the RCA jack, you short out half of the 12V...with 
luck, you blow the filament fuse..no luck and you smoke something else. If you use the 12V 
filaments to run a rectifier ( I use a bridge device) DO NOT ground either side of the DC output,


FYI

Curt
KU8L



On 1/8/2012 7:45 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

I've done all which-ways.
I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow it 
down.
I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 12V wall wart. the fan 
runs really slow until the temp gets to the point where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed. 
This fan cost me $5 at a hamfest.
I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the filament supply with a 
diode and cap (half-wave rectifier). The fans he used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply for 12V and feed it to 
an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed wires through that hole. I like just setting the 
fan on top, using rubber feet. No holes get drilled that way...

YMMV,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.
All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.

*From:* Michael & Sue Trussell 
*Sent:* Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
*To:* drakelist@zerobeat.net 
*Subject:* [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I know a few of you have 
used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 110 volt version. What I would like to know 
where I can get power so I don’t have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on. I would 
like the fan to come on when I turn on the power to the transmitter, any suggestions?


Thank you in advance

Michael J Trussell KA8ASN



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Fans

[kc9cdt]

Mike,
Interestedwhat specific fan is needed...and do you have them?
73,
Lee



-Original Message-
From: Mike Bryce 
To: K9sqg 
Cc: drakelist ; mkellync 
Sent: Mon, Jan 9, 2012 10:55 am
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Fans


Boys and girls...


I've got a new pcb that takes care of this problem. Here's how it works



While the circuit has been designed to use either the 6 or 12 v ac 
filament, 
 When you first turn your radio on, any of the Drake TR series or R 
series, the fan will come on to high speed. High speed fan is 
controlled by trimmer R11.
 The fan will run in high speed for about three seconds and then drop 
to low speed. That is adjusted by R12. 
you can set either the high speed or the low speed independently so you 
have enough voltage to get the fan running, then you slow it down as 
slow as you want it with just an adjustment of a trimmer.
 When you transmit, the external key line is pulled to ground and that 
forces the fan into high speed. This greatly increases the cooling of 
the PA tubes during tune up and long winded QSOs. When you go back to 
receive, the fan slows back down to the low setting.
 The entire pcb about 2 in square is mounted on a side of the pa 
compartment. There are no wires to cut or holes to drill. installation 
is completely reversible and operation completely transparent.



Mike WB8VGE
 

On Jan 8, 2012, at 10:11 PM, K9sqg wrote:


Another approach I've found to work well is to use a 220 v fan that 
will start reliably and run consistently. Super quiet!



73,



Evan, K9SQG


-Original Message-
From: Michael Kelly 
To: drakelist 
Sent: Sun, Jan 8, 2012 4:57 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] Fans


Okay here's another way to go at the fan plan question  I wire two 
110 vac
fans in series so they run half speed. I can't hear them at all yet 
they move a

good deal of air.

The one above the finals on my TR4Cw is blowing straight up and the one 
in the
front top in the middle is blowing in. I get a "circular" air flow  
pattern and
the entire transceiver never even approaches warm. Just to make sure, 
(and for
fun)  I have a thermometer on top of the fan which sets on top of the 
one on the

finals and the temperature hardly changes at all.

To keep the fans stationary I use 4 pieces of coax seal rolled in a 
ball about
half the size of a pea to serve as "feet" on each corner of the fan. It 
won't

stick permanently but it will keep the quite stationary.

So for me the question of blow out or in is answered by doing both 

As for providing power I have both the AC-4 and these series wired fans 
in a 3
way plug which is in turn plugged into a soft start circuit. Turn on 
the slow

start switch turns on both the AC-4 and the fans.

Try the two fan approach ... No need to modify anything in the 
transceiver.

Cooler is better, eh?

Happy New Year everyone.

Michael n4mak

Sent from my iPhone

//


At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote:

I've done all which-ways.

I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor 

to slow

it down.
I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running 

off a
12V wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the 

point
where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 

at a

hamfest.
I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped 

off the
filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The 

fans he

used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament 

supply
for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just 

feed
wires through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using 

rubber

feet.  No holes get drilled that way...

YMMV,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom 

appended

thereto.

From: Michael & Sue Trussell
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. 

I
know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have 

used the
110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so 

I
don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would 

like

the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any
suggestions?

Thank you in advance

Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN


--
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailma

Re: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

[Curt]

BE VERY CAREFULIn many (most?) of the 4 line, the 12V filament 
circuit has its center tap grounded so the 6v filaments work from each 
half of the 12V winding to ground.


If you ground either side of the 12V line to the RCA jack, you short out 
half of the 12V...with luck, you blow the filament fuse..no luck and you 
smoke something else.  If you use the 12V filaments to run a rectifier ( 
I use a bridge device) DO NOT ground either side of the DC output,


FYI

Curt
KU8L



On 1/8/2012 7:45 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

I've done all which-ways.
I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to 
slow it down.
I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running 
off a 12V wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to 
the point where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan 
cost me $5 at a hamfest.
I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off 
the filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The 
fans he used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament 
supply for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or 
just feed wires through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on 
top, using rubber feet.  No holes get drilled that way...

YMMV,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.
All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom 
appended thereto.


*From:* Michael & Sue Trussell 
*Sent:* Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
*To:* drakelist@zerobeat.net 
*Subject:* [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I 
know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used 
the 110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power 
so I don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I 
would like the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the 
transmitter, any suggestions?


Thank you in advance

Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Fans

[Mike Bryce]

Boys and girls...

I've got a new pcb that takes care of this problem. Here's how it works

While the circuit has been designed to use either the 6 or 12 v ac filament, 

 When you first turn your radio on, any of the Drake TR series or R series, the 
fan will come on to high speed. High speed fan is controlled by trimmer R11.

 The fan will run in high speed for about three seconds and then drop to low 
speed. That is adjusted by R12. 

you can set either the high speed or the low speed independently so you have 
enough voltage to get the fan running, then you slow it down as slow as you 
want it with just an adjustment of a trimmer.
 When you transmit, the external key line is pulled to ground and that forces 
the fan into high speed. This greatly increases the cooling of the PA tubes 
during tune up and long winded QSOs. When you go back to receive, the fan slows 
back down to the low setting.

 The entire pcb about 2 in square is mounted on a side of the pa compartment. 
There are no wires to cut or holes to drill. installation is completely 
reversible and operation completely transparent.


Mike WB8VGE
 

On Jan 8, 2012, at 10:11 PM, K9sqg wrote:

> Another approach I've found to work well is to use a 220 v fan that will 
> start reliably and run consistently. Super quiet!
> 
> 73,
> 
> Evan, K9SQG
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Michael Kelly 
> To: drakelist 
> Sent: Sun, Jan 8, 2012 4:57 pm
> Subject: [Drakelist] Fans
> 
> Okay here's another way to go at the fan plan question  I wire two 110 
> vac 
> fans in series so they run half speed. I can't hear them at all yet they move 
> a 
> good deal of air.  
> 
> The one above the finals on my TR4Cw is blowing straight up and the one in 
> the 
> front top in the middle is blowing in. I get a "circular" air flow  pattern 
> and 
> the entire transceiver never even approaches warm. Just to make sure, (and 
> for 
> fun)  I have a thermometer on top of the fan which sets on top of the one on 
> the 
> finals and the temperature hardly changes at all. 
> 
> To keep the fans stationary I use 4 pieces of coax seal rolled in a ball 
> about 
> half the size of a pea to serve as "feet" on each corner of the fan. It won't 
> stick permanently but it will keep the quite stationary.  
> 
> So for me the question of blow out or in is answered by doing both 
> 
> As for providing power I have both the AC-4 and these series wired fans in a 
> 3 
> way plug which is in turn plugged into a soft start circuit. Turn on the slow 
> start switch turns on both the AC-4 and the fans. 
> 
> Try the two fan approach ... No need to modify anything in the transceiver.  
> Cooler is better, eh?
> 
> Happy New Year everyone. 
> 
> Michael n4mak
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> //
> > 
> > At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote:
> >> I've done all which-ways.
> >> 
> >> I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow 
> >> it down.
> >> I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 
> >> 12V wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point 
> >> where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 at a 
> >> hamfest.
> >> I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the 
> >> filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The fans he 
> >> used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
> >> If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply 
> >> for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed 
> >> wires through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber 
> >> feet.  No holes get drilled that way...
> >> 
> >> YMMV,
> >> 
> >> Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
> >> 
> >> Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
> >> John Stark.
> >> 
> >> All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
> >> thereto.
> >> 
> >> From: Michael & Sue Trussell
> >> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
> >> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> >> Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?
> >> 
> >> I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I 
> >> know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 
> >> 110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I 
> >> don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like 
> >> the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any 
> >> suggestions?
> >> 
> >> Thank you in advance
> >> 
> >> Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN
> >> 
> >> 
> >> --
> >> ___
> >> Drakelist mailing list
> >> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> >> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> >> __

Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed

[Garey Barrell]

Bob -

Yeah, but I spend a LOT more time listening than I do transmitting.  The receiver(s) are on just 
about all day, the transmitter only for an hour or so.  So individual control is still useful.  It's 
not 'carrying the current' that kills the contacts, as long as they are properly rated.  One problem 
comes at 'turn on' when the contacts happen to close at the peak of the AC waveform.   AND when the 
contacts open, the power transformer primary inductance tries to keep current flowing by 'kicking 
back' it's stored charge.


The handiest controller that I have found is for computer users (almost as important to us hams as 
the audio guys!)  This is a strip with six individually switched outlets.  A flat box designed to 
sit under a CRT monitor with the switches (with lights!) across the front, and AC sockets across the 
back.


Certainly your technique applies after the switch 'dies' especially in the 'open' position.  This is 
usually the result of a mechanical failure.  More common failure mode is the 'Off' situation, which 
often results in contacts welded together, eliminating the need for the jumper wire!!  :-)


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Bob Spooner wrote:

Using a switched outlet strip with equipment having a separate power supply
you can go even further by bypassing the power switch entirely and hard
wiring the supply on. Then the contacts don't have to carry the startup
surge even while closed.

73,
Bob AD3K



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Digital Readout for TR-3 and TR-4

[Garey Barrell]

John -

Absolutely switches can be replaced.  I've also been known to replace just the resistance element in 
a hard to find pot, especially those dis-similar dual jobs!  :-)   There is always a way...


I have a NOS Drake switch pair for my L-4B.  That's my retirement plan...   :-)

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



w4...@aol.com wrote:
Many potentiometers having a switch on the back are common in that the switch will fit several 
different controls. I have found many of these on NOS and used pots at hamfests and I always buy 
several, especially new ones. It is nice to get several since they are prone to getting lost in 
the junque pile at home. The purpose of this is to remind you that if your switch dies, there is 
still hope. Not so the L-4B and L-7 switches although I have heard of some fellows who were able 
to repair them.
Garey's power strip idea is an excellent way to take the load off the equipment mounted switch but 
I am a bit of a nut then it comes to turning on a piece of great with the internal switch. Yes, 
matching and replacing the switch can be a real exercise in patience since many times, the entire 
control has to be removed to replace the switch on the back. If you don't mind scrounging and a 
bit of work, you can keep your gear original, at least when it comes to powering it up. By the 
way, Garey's idea is a great way to make sure all the gear connected to it is off and in a storm, 
pulling that single strip plug and disconnecting antennas may save you from electrical storm damage.

This goes for other makes of boatanchors also.
73,
John,  W4AWM


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] Meter in the MN2700

[Woody]

*I want to put a PEP metering circuit in the 2700, is the metering circuit
the same as the WH7? K4DPK  a friend of mine sells these for different
applications (they work great, and very easy to install) and I need to know
which one I need, should I use the one for the WH7 or his universal circuit.
*
*Thanks*
*Woody
*

-- 
* ** **Of **all the things I've L**ost, I miss my Mind the Most~~~*
   * If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history*
*Thanks*
*"Woody"*
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed

[Bob Spooner]

Using a switched outlet strip with equipment having a separate power supply
you can go even further by bypassing the power switch entirely and hard
wiring the supply on. Then the contacts don't have to carry the startup
surge even while closed.

73,
Bob AD3K

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 11:14 PM
To: Kris Merschrod
Cc: drakelist
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed

Excellent job.  The relay is certainly an effective way to protect that
switch.   However ...

A simple power strip with enough outlets for a single station solves the AC
switch problem.  The key is to switch the equipment on  -OR-  off  _only_
when the power strip switch is OFF.

None of our boatanchor equipment has an easily power switch, most are on the
back of a potentiometer.  I don't use ANY boatanchor power switches 'hot'
any more.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Kris Merschrod wrote:
> Mark,  that is a nice description of the AC-4 rebuild.  Thank you for
sharing it with us.
>
> I have done a few of them but using Mike's (Solar) approach.  I 
> confess that I did not strip it all down and scrube the chassis!  Very
good idea to use new bushing etc.
>
> I have gambled on the old switches holding out - so far so good.
>
> Kris KM2KM
> - Original Message - From: "Mark Pilant" 
> To: "drakelist" 
> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 11:05 AM
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed
>
>
>> OK, now the rebuild is really complete.  Yesterday I added the relay 
>> to take the load off the On/Off switch.  Here are pictures and a 
>> description of what I did:
>>
>> http://www.n1vqw.net/ac4rebuild/#phase2
>>
>> Before the addition of the relay, I measured a current draw of about
>> 325 mA with the power supply unloaded.  This would also be the 
>> current on the On/Off switch contacts.  Since this was on an unloaded 
>> power supply, I would expect this to rise when transmitting.
>>
>> After the addition of the relay, this current (from the relay coil) 
>> seen by the switch contacts dropped to just a bit over 10 mA.  This 
>> is a substantial drop, and should make the switch contacts last much 
>> longer.
>>
>> Oh yes, comments, corrections, and suggestions welcome.
>>
>> 73
>>
>> - Mark  N1VQW
>

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist