[Drakelist] R-4B Notch Adjust

2014-03-25 Thread GRANT YOUNGMAN
How is the slug in the r-4B notch adjustment adjusted.  From the rear of the 
can?  Can’t see in there, and haven’t found a tool yet that will grab anything.

Or is it done with the little spring tail that connects to the notch control?

Thanks … Grant NQ5T


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Re: [Drakelist] Blonder-Tongue Buys Drake

2012-02-02 Thread Grant Youngman
I suspect it means the final nail in the coffin of one of a long list of ham 
radio's great companies (and great products).  It's too bad, although Drake has 
been out of our business for a long time.  Their legacy will live on for a long 
time to come.  I've passed on my B-line and C-line, and was planning to sell my 
TR-7/RV-75, but I think I'll hang on to it for a while.

On the plus side, the torch has been passed to some excellent new ones here at 
home …  Elecraft, Ten-Tec, and Flex.  And somewhere down the line, they'll pass 
on the torch .. and so it goes.  I just wish I hadn't sold my 1-A last year :-)

Grant/NQ5T


On Feb 2, 2012, at 3:12 PM, kc9...@aol.com wrote:

 Oh...interesting...I hope that means they will be building the C line, TR4-C 
 etc...again, brand new!
 Would create some nice job opportunities..
 73,
 Lee
 
 


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Re: [Drakelist] Ever seen a Henry 2-B Mechanical Filter ad on?

2011-10-27 Thread Grant Youngman
info is here, including installation, wiring, schematic, etc.

http://www.dproducts.be/drake_museum/accessories.htm

Grant/NQ5T

On Oct 27, 2011, at 4:43 PM, Paul Gerhardt wrote:

 Here is something I have never seen
 Henry Radio Mechanical Filter for a 2-B.  Does anyone know which IF
 freq this worked on?
 
 fleabay item # 190593633063
 
 If you want to see a pix of it in the next day or two.
 
 
 
 -- 
 Paul Gerhardt
 K3PG
 http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com
 QRP ARCI 6674
 FP 274
 You must do this work with love or you fail. -- John Muir, from How
 to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive
 
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Re: [Drakelist] So if crystals change frequency ...

2011-09-18 Thread Grant Youngman
They had pencil, paper, slide rules, and brains. The modern computer may be 
faster, but not necessarily smarter. 

I still carry a Decilon around with me.Just to convince myself that 64-bit 
floating point doesn't guarantee a better or simpler (or necessarily faster) 
answer :-)

Grant/NQ5T


 While the Bell System used astonishingly complex filters for carrier 
 telephone service in the 1950's calculating them without modern computers 
 must have been extremely difficult 
 

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Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood Engineering

2011-07-27 Thread Grant Youngman


Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 27, 2011, at 1:47 PM, Wolfgang Peringer dk...@bingo-ev.de wrote:

 Hello:
  
 I have tried several times to contact Rob Sherwood to place an ordner but did 
 get no response. Is he still in business? Any information welcome.
 vy 73
 Wolfgang
 dk7cy
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Re: [Drakelist] D104 and TR7

2011-07-06 Thread Grant Youngman
Why wouldn't you use the preamp?  While there may be better preamp circuits out 
there, even the preamp in an amplified Astatic stand sounds decent if it's used 
properly. Turn it all the way down. Set the rig's mic gain at about 10:00, and 
then SLOWLY advance the gain of the preamp for normal modulation. 

The biggest problem happens when you just crank it all the way up for that 
good buddy effect. 

I've used amp'd d104 and 10D mics on rigs of all kinds (including Drake's of 
all kinds without getting cr*p for audio.  The preamp eliminates the need to be 
concerned about matching the input Z of the radio and eliminates the effect of 
the input Z of the radio on the freq response of the mic. 

Grant/NQ5T

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2011, at 8:47 PM, K9sqg k9...@aol.com wrote:

 Woody,
 
 I've heard of numerous people using the D-104 with the TR-7 as discussed on 
 the Drake nets.  Values I've heard range from 470K to 1.3 meg in series with 
 the mic hot lead.  If there is a speech pre-amp in the mic, it should not be 
 used.
 
 73,
 
 Evan, K9SQG
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com
 To: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Wed, Jul 6, 2011 9:19 pm
 Subject: [Drakelist] D104 and TR7
 
 Does any one know the mod to make the 104 work well with the TR7, I was told 
 you added a resistor of some value but they didn't know the value or where to 
 put it. I need to know it at the Mod's for Dummies level, I was a Toolmaker 
 not a electronics man, well just enough to be dangerous and stay alive. 
 Thanks 
 Woody
 -- 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Amplified D104

2011-07-06 Thread Grant Youngman
444D -- hamfest, e-whatever. Not expensive.  Great mic with a TR-7. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2011, at 9:40 PM, Woody ko4...@gmail.com wrote:

 I clipping. So I'm trying to find a cure without going to a 7075 for close to 
 a hundred bucks and having to hold it.
 Woody
 -- 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] D104 and TR7

2011-07-06 Thread Grant Youngman
That's true. But if one has an amplified stand it will work fine, too. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 6, 2011, at 10:13 PM, K9sqg k9...@aol.com wrote:

 Grant,
 
 There is no real need for the pre-amp circuit when the D-104 is used with the 
 TR-7, more than enough gain exists.  Don't have to replace the battery every 
 year or two either.  At any rate, it is personal preference.
 
 73,
 
 Evan
 
 
 
 -
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Low Mic Input

2011-06-21 Thread Grant Youngman
That sounds perfectly normal. You shouldn't expect to see much more than 30-35 
watts AVERAGE power with normal speech. So unless you're using a peak reading 
watt meter, there may be no low modulation. 

Grant/NQ5T

Sent from my iPhone
 modulation , at wistle the power excced the 150 watts but in the normal 
 modulatión is around of 30, 35 watts , 

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Re: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what would your first station be?

2011-06-17 Thread Grant Youngman
Started about the same way. 1959. DX-40, one 7198 crystal, and a borrowed 
BC-455. When I upgraded to a BC-312N, I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. 
After passing the General the next year I was rewarded with a 2nd hand SX-100.  
Used the DX-40 well into high school until I was presented with a Globe 
Champion 350 my dad found for sale for $25!

Never owned a Drake of any kind until I started collecting and using the 
catalog contents of my youth.  Been through a lot if it including some of the 
marine products. All time favorites are the 1-A and 2-B. All that's left of 
that today is a TR-7/RV-75 which I keep as a backup radio. 

Grant/NQ5T

 
 My first rig was a command set receiver on 40 meters along with a factory 
 built Knight T-60 bought from another more affluent teenage ham.  

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Re: [Drakelist] Dewsoldering

2011-03-29 Thread Grant Youngman
Dew soldering is particularly difficult :-)  Better in low humidity, or later 
in the morning ... 


On Mar 29, 2011, at 2:45 PM, Thomas C. Dailey - Dailey Services, LLC wrote:



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Re: [Drakelist] Wanted 4NB Noise Blanker

2011-02-02 Thread Grant Youngman
Interesting in the different perspectives.  I always found my R-4C to have a 
noise blanker that was a standard of comparison for anything else.  At least 
on the noise here, it worked very well with a GUF-1 installed.

Dynamic range is another issue, but the NB was outstanding.

Grant/NQ5T


On Feb 1, 2011, at 6:18 PM, John Hudson wrote:

 
 FWIW, the mod's to my Sherwood R-4C do allow you to use the standard 6kHz
 front end filter. The 4NB noise blanker has only been marginally successful,
 at best, even when I revert to the standard filters. 
 


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Re: [Drakelist] guf1 filter

2010-06-20 Thread Grant Youngman
http://www.inrad.net


On Jun 20, 2010, at 9:12 AM, AirRadio wrote:

 Where can I buy a GUF-1 filter for my R-4C?
 73 Max
 M0GHQ
 
 I am using the Free version of SPAMfighter.
 We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
 SPAMfighter has removed 3085 of my spam emails to date.
 The Professional version does not have this message.
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-5 - How Many Were Made?

2009-11-05 Thread Grant Youngman

Mine is serial #1505.

Grant/NQ5T


On Nov 5, 2009, at 5:49 PM, gypsym...@aol.com wrote:


rfch...@verizon.net writes:
Can someone familiar with the TR-5 please clarify these numbers and  
the rumor?  Ed K2ZE

Ed,
NOW you have my curiosity up too.

I own # 1386 that I purchased new.
Steve Whitefield was one of the two lead engineer types on the TR5  
at that time for Drake.
He is chairman of our local radio group (MARA  Mound Amateur Radio  
Association) and I will ask him if he knows.
In addition Bill Frost who retired from Drake last Friday, monitors  
this list and lives close by, I will try and verify what he knows.

My next potential information source would be John Kriner.
Carl Hibbard  Dayton, OH

PS the sunken ship is definitely blarney.
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[Drakelist] Drake 1-A Question -- Missing coil slugs

2009-07-22 Thread Grant Youngman


I purchased a 1-A several years ago (probably in the late 90's), and  
overall it is one of my favorite collectible radios.  It worked  
reasonably well -- seemingly -- so until yesterday I had actually  
never even bothered to take it out of the cabinet.  Just used it  
casually as an appliance radio from time to time.  Decided I finally  
found the correct Round To-It  ..  and that it could possibly benefit  
from an alignment at least. Took it out of the cabinet, marveled at  
the extent of the copper corrosion, etc., noted there were a few paper  
caps that might benefit from at least a check if not replacement.  AND  
dIscovered that the coil slugs for the Antenna coils (closest to the  
back panel) in the 20, 15 and 10 meter bands didn't just need an  
alignment check  -- they were missing, gone, nada, vanished, nowhere  
to be found.


So -- a question or two:

 -- Was there some EC that called for removal of these slugs for some  
reason?


 -- and if not, does anyone have a beater/junker 1-A with three slug/ 
screw assemblies still intact (for a price of course)?  Or a Drake  
spares hoard with some of these slugs in the larder?  It appears that  
all of the slugs in the three sets of similar coil assemblies are  
identical, so any three of the slugs from any of the coils might  work.


 -- or, can anyone suggest a source for some slug material close to  
what should be in there?  I can always epoxy a brass screw to the slug  
material.



Thanks ... Grant/NQ5T
TR-5, TR-7, 1-A



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[drakelist]

2007-08-27 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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RE: [drakelist]

2007-08-27 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Oops, sorry ... 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Grant Youngman
 Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 8:15 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [drakelist] 
 
 
 Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
 drakelist gang
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RE: [drakelist] Drift on TR7

2007-08-25 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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One simple thing you can try is to just remove the pilot lamp from the
analog VFO dial -- you don't need to see it with the digi display anyway.  

The heat from this lamp is a known cause of warmup drift.  There is also a
blue led replacement module
(http://home.wi.rr.com/n9oo/products/tr7lamp/d7lamp.html) for both the meter
and VFO lamps, which does not generate the heat of the incandescant bulb and
also solves the where do I find blue filters problem.

I don't think the 1 Khz up/down drifting around after warmup is at all
normal.


Grant/NQ5T
TR-5/TR-7/RV-75
 

 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Peter Bent
 Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 12:55 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [drakelist] Drift on TR7
 
 Am a happy new owner of as Drake tr 7.  The rig checks out so 
 far, on all fronts.  There does seem to be some drift in 
 frequency.  After it warms ups, about 45 minutes, it pretty 
 much stablilizes, but seems to wander up and down a bit. 
 About 1khz +/-.  I certainly can live with this problem. is 
 this typical for the TR7?  Any sage advice from anyone. thanks.  
 
  
 
 
 
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RE: [drakelist] Noise Blanker discussion

2007-05-11 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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 found any of them to be of much use, if any.  Most of these are/were
 designed for pulse type noises, which, depending on your location and
 application may or may not be needed.  

That's what a Noise Blanker is for -- pulse type noise, electric fences,
ignition noise, power-line noise, your neigbors old touch controlled lamp,
and the like.  They won't rid your audio of hiss, miscellaneous band grunge,
thunderstorm static, etc. because these tend to be glops of noise rather
that pulses of noise.

The blanker in the TR-7 (NB7A) is very good, and the blanker in the R-4C is
phenomenal.

 Practically speaking.Are they worth it?  And,...outside of mobile
 operating, what noises are they effective? 

In my opinion, yes.  If you've ever suffered throug the power company
repeated telling you that the s-9 buzzsaw running on your receiver isn't
their fault, you'd understand why :)  Again, pulse noises -- ignition, power
transformer arching (not in your radio, at the power pole), unfiltered
electrical devices controlled by triacs, etc.  But they won't necessary get
rid of everything -- it depends on the blanker characteristics, pulse width
of the noise, filter width and characteristics ahead of the blanker, etc.

 Someone also may wish to
 discuss other noise reduction alternatives such as the ANEM which
 el34guy mentioned.

DSP noise reduction devices tackle a different problem (there are DSP-based
noise blankers, but that's a different beast.  It doesn't help much to
blank a noise pulse in the receiver's audio chain -- it needs to be done
BEFORE the noise pulse gets to the AGC).  These basically reduce his
and clean up or reduce some other forms of non-pulse noise.  They can take a
noisy 75M band at night and (at least on strong signals) give you much
quiter copy.  The end objective should always be to improve Signal to
Noise ratio.  Sometimes they do that, and sometimes they don't.  

Nothing is perfect :)

Grant/NQ5T


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RE: [drakelist] External DDS experience with Drake equipment

2006-07-18 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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 Good question.  I've been looking for  a similar solution for 
 the TR7. 

For the TR-7 (or R-7/TR-7 combo) this is worth a look.  May seem pricey, but
it's really no more expensive than an RV-75.  Down to 1 Hz or 10 Hz per
step.

http://www.mistyhollowenterprises.com/resources2.html

Grant/NQ5T



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RE: [drakelist] R7 questions

2006-06-13 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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 The only difference between the 4 kHz and 6 kHz filter with 
 the synchro-phase AM detector is the selectivity.  

I had both filters, and always thought the radio sounded better with the 4
Khz than the 6 Khz.  Both were in the radio, and I always chose the 4 Khz,
with a little PBT cranked in as the better sounding option. YMMV.

I sold my fully loaded, practically NIB R-7 (serial #117) over the weekend,
and to make myself feel better after suffering through a bad case of
seller's remorse (sigh!), set up my TR-5 station and have been been
enjoying the blazes out of it.  Too bad the TR-5 doesn't have an AM option
:-)

Grant/NQ5T


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RE: [drakelist] R7 questions

2006-06-12 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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 The following accessories and modifications have been added 
 to update your R7 to an R7A for more versatility.

The biggest difference, aside from the R7A coming with all the options (and
certainly, the NB7A was worth having), is the plastic strip across the top
with R7A on it.

In today's market, the biggest difference is that that little plastic strip
causes the price of the radio to skyrocket, for reasons only PT Barnum could
imagine ;-)

Grant/NQ5T


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RE: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs

2006-01-19 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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 The bug on the desk MOST of the time is a GHB optical bug, 
 but that's a different story  :-)


No one ever gave me an award for typing ... That should be a GHD optical
bug

Grant/NQ5T


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RE: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs

2006-01-19 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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 If I were going to find one of these to buy and USE are there 
 any concerns using the really old bugs vs. using the new 
 bugs?  

Generally speaking, the older bugs work just fine, if they're complete and
not bashed up.  I've found some issues with badly burned up contacts on some
of them.

My personal favorites are the Lightning Bugs and I have several of different
vintages.  They all handle about the same, although I'm stuck on a WW-II
version (J-36) made by Lionel as the one I use most often.

The bug on the desk MOST of the time is a GHB optical bug, but that's a
different story  :-)

Grant/NQ5T


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[drakelist] Web Forum -- was The EBAY Thread

2005-07-27 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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 I think it's time for the ebay thread to die.  Please feel 
 free to use the Web Based forum 
 http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/phpBB2/ to continue the discussion.

eBay threads or anything else, I just wish more people would use the Web
forum :-)  The original forum was a valuable resource, and the new one could
be, too, if it were just USED more.

Grant/NQ5T





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RE: [drakelist] QUESTION S: R-4 and 2-B IF bandwidth filtering

2005-06-17 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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  If you want to listen to AM, why not use a receiver 
  that was designed primarily to receive it ..?
 Just another grouchy opinion, maybe worth abt what you 
 paid for it.

Grouchy or not, it's a perfectly good opinion :-)

Sure, a lot of radio's can receive AM, including all of the Drake 2-series,
4-series, etc., and comparisons can be drawn between which one of those is
better in some sense.   But some other radios are MUCH better at AM --
SP-600 variants, most any super pro, R-390 (better than R-390A, but harder
to find working well), and many others.  The R-388 is also a much better AM
radio than the 51J4 (because of those pesky mechanical filter thingies), and
won't compress your vertebra quite as much as a 390.  In many respects, the
R-388 ends up being one of the best of the lot (especially with an external
sync detector, or at least outboard audio).

Grant/NQ5T


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Re: [drakelist] TR7-A Cooling Fan

2004-10-27 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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 I use my TR7-A mostly for short-wave listening, so I've unplugged the
 cooling fan to cut down on the dirt that might be drawn into the
 radio. Am I correct in assuming that this fan is only required if I'm
 transmitting? Any advice would be appreciated...73, David

You're correct.  Generally,  the fan is only needed if you operate 
(transmit) in high duty cycle modes, e.g. RTTY, etc.

Grant/NQ5T



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http://www.globeking.com
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Re: [drakelist] R4C NB pricing

2004-08-20 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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  ... ,snip  Today a working unit sells
 on eBay from $125 to around $200.I don't know how many Drake
 manufactured but you don't see them for sale very often.   I think the price
 is driven by supply and demand.

I'll rant on this one.  I think a big part of the problem is parts ... or 
parted out radios.  In this sense.

Some sellers pull all of the options out of a perfectly good 
complete radio and sell them separately.  Noise blankers, crystals, 
crystal filters, calibrators, option boards, and most scummarily .. 
things like band modules for an HRO.  You want to buy an HRO-5?  
You might have to separately purchase the radio frame, all of the 
band plugins (one at a time, plus one more sale for the storage 
box), the power supply, etc.  In a competitive bid situation, by the 
time you're done that radio has cost a fortune .. and you probably 
still have an incomplete radio.   I'm surprised in some cases that the 
knobs and tubes aren't also sold one at a time ...:-(

Some poor schmuck actually trying to buy a whole radio pays the 
price.  Next prospective seller sees the prices on options and his 
eyes glaze over as he begins to salivate at the thought of the 
bankroll;  and he does the same.  Slowly the prices creep.  I'ts easy 
to see ... the same guy will have the radio (no options) and all of the 
options for sale separately.  e-place or private sale .. same same.

Happens all the time.

Of course, the other expanation is that there just aren't enough of 
them to go around :-)

Grant/NQ5T
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Re: e: [drakelist] T4XC and D104

2004-08-05 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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 If that's the case (and I'm not doubting anyone's word here), it should
 be a simple matter to brew up a good low-noise op-amp configured as a
 unity gain amplifier with a suitably high input Z. Hang a pot across
 the output to attenuate in case the mic output is too high for those
 newer rigs. This I could be comfortable with. No need for a pre-AMP, in
 any case. Just a Z-matching buffer.

That's probably true.  Maybe something really simple like this source follower from 
the AM Press Exchange.

http://www.amfone.net/AMPX/074_1.gif  

Grant/NQ5T
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Re: [drakelist] T4XC and D104

2004-08-04 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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 Again, when signals are good, unprocessed audio seemes less fatigueing.
 When signals are weak to non-existant, the processor can make the
 difference between making the contact and not...

I agree completely.  It depends on what one means by processing.  
I think most people end up doing to much.

I do believe that two specific types of processing are generally good, 
regardless of radio or microphone, and in the order I've described 
them.

The first is a noise gate (downward expander).  A good noise gate 
can really help keep your amp fan noise, the dog barking downstairs 
and other miscellany off the air.  But not too aggressive, or it will 
make you sound choppy.

The second is just a wee bit of compression (note I'm talking about 
audio compression and not RF processing).  Again it's something 
that needs to be under done rather than over done, because too 
much audio compression will take all the dynamic out of your voice 
and doesn't sound good.  But lightly done, it isn't obvious to the 
listener and will assist in keeping a reasonably constant audio level 
into the radio as your mouth to mic distance changes.

Grant/NQ5T

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Re: e: [drakelist] T4XC and D104

2004-08-04 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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 I've got an ols Turner '+2' amplified mike. I wonder if its the same 
 thing for the CB crowd because I have an older similar Turner that's 
 without the amp.

While it's true that some of the preamps in the mics were designed 
for the CB bunch so they could increase their swing, the preamp in 
the D-104 (which is the only one I'm directly familiar with) is 
unnecessarily maligned.

The problem is less the preamp than the misuse of the preamp.  
Sure, if you crank it all the way up and then wonder why you have 
lousy audio, well,  you got what you deserved.  If you set your rig's 
mic gain at a normal level ( say 9-10 o'clock) and then adjust the 
preamp gain until you get a normal modulation indication (meter 
reading or lamp flicker) you will avoid most of the  problems.

I've used a stock Astatic  preamp'd  base with a D-104 or 10DA 
head for years on both old gear and modern radios with no 
problems, and perfectly good undistorted audio.  Without the 
preamp base you simply can't run a D-104 into a modern rig with its 
low input impedance.  It will sound like crp.  An unamplified D-104 
works well in the typical high Z input of a tube type radio because 
the crystal element needs a high Z load.  Replace the grid resistor 
with something at 5 or 10 megs (higher than stock in most tube-type 
radios) and it will sound even better, because that will restore what 
is often lost low end response.  If you look at a D-104 spec sheet, 
the change in low end response with preamp input impedance is 
clear.

Impedance matching is in part the reason for the preamp in the first 
place.  Except that even the Astatic preamp doesn't have a high 
enough input impedance to get the D-104 to sound as good as it 
can.  That can be fixed by simply increasing the value of the input 
resistor on the preamp.  Many alternate simple preamp designs, 
some with variable input Z to allow tailoring of the mic's response 
are around also.

The D-104 is an excellent element, and it's too bad that Astatic 
finally dropped it from the product line.  Apparently, the primary 
reason was the difficulty of obtaining the Rochelle salt crystals.  It 
has a nice rise in its frequency response which adds clarity and 
punch without  the screaching-parakeet sound of elements such as 
the Heil HC-4.  And it has a good low end, IF you operate it into a 
very high impedance.

Grant/NQ5T


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Re: [drakelist] TR-5 Serial Number Fun, So Far..

2004-07-20 Thread Grant Youngman

"Grant Youngman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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On 16 Jul 2004 at 15:38, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 So far 8 of you from the list have responded with their
 TR-5 serial numbers

Been out of town, and couldn't look at the back of the radio.


I have TR-5 #1506


Grant/NQ5T


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Re: [drakelist] pricing and the TR-5

2004-07-14 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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On 14 Jul 2004 at 19:40, Ron Baker wrote:

 Jim,   the TR5 is a fine radio and works well and was to be the solid
 state replacement for the TR4 series.  I think the reason for the high
 value is its a rare item to find.   Drake only manufactured 517 units,


One more voice in the melee ... the TR-5 is a wonderful little radio.  It's 
simple, sounds great on both transmit and receive, and is just a delight 
to use.  The fact that not many were made may add to the price, but 
just having fun with it from time to time is enough reward.

I've occasionally come up with the notion of putting mine on the block, 
but in the end I put it back where it belongs and hang on to it.   Like the 
1-A I can't bring myself to part with, either  :-)

Grant/NQ5T

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Re: [drakelist] TR7 misc.

2004-07-01 Thread Grant Youngman

Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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 Mike,
 I would NOT put in the lamp for the analog dial. It will make drift of
 the vfo much worse, 

And if there's one in there, remove it.

There is a light for the S-meter, but no illumination specific to the 
bandswitch.

Congratulations on your TR-7 .. they're (still) great radios.  

Grant/NQ5T
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Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B

2004-02-24 Thread Grant Youngman

 The two line is one of the most undervalued (this auction
 notwithstanding!) rigs around. 

I agree.  I think the 2-B is a great receiver, chassis corrosion and all.

Now a kilobuck for one is a different issue altogether, but then how 
often does a NIB radio come along?  From the point of view of a 
serious collector (of anything .. radios, fine art, whatever), that may 
not seem like a bad price at all.

Grant/NQ5T

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Re: [drakelist] TR-7 Genreal Info. Wanted

2004-01-21 Thread Grant Youngman

 Hi All:
 
 First, where are the skeletons, specifically are there common failures
 that are difficult to repair either because of complexity or
 hard-to-find parts?

In my experience, the TR-7 is a fine, reliable radio, with excellent transmit 
and receive audio.  I have it paired up with a R-7 for transceive operation, 
but rarely use the R-7.

You should definitely get your hands on a service manual.  You'll need it if 
you have any kind of the problem.  

The most common misadjustment that causes problems -- bad audio 
(tinny, bassy), funky sideband response, etc. is the 10V regulator board 
and it's associated adjustments to place the reference oscillators in the 
right spot.  But alignment is straightforward.

I've had two failures on the digital display board, which caused frequency 
display problems.  They were not difficult to isolate and repair, but might 
be  a problem if you don't have experience tracing and debugging digital 
circuits.
  
 Second, if one of these radios does fail and needs servicing beyond my
 abilities, is reputable service easy to come by?

There are guys out there who repair these things.  One such person is 
here: http://www.siscom.net/~jandsuz/index1.htm.  Besides that, there 
are a lot of people with experience that can help, and it's often possible to 
find complete boards, or parts units at not too unreasonable prices.

Also, it's a good idea to look around for a set of extender boards.  And 
then hope you never have to use them :-)  But you can't service critical 
parts of the radio without them.

Pulling, applying (sparingly) DeOxit, etc. to board contacts, and reseating 
is a reasonable preventive measure.

You may also find that a previous owner has really stretched the limit on 
power output adjustments, and in my view there's no reason to stress the 
radio by pushing output to the max.

Drift in the analog PTO is affected by heat from the pilot lamp on the 
analog display.  A lot of people (me included) pull that lamp out.  You 
don't need it as long as your TR-7 isn't one of the very early ones without 
the DR-7 (digital display).  It was initially an option and not a standard 
feature.  I wouldn't buy one without the digital display anyway.


 Finally, what should I be on the alert for when buying a TR-7 (common
 failures, expensive failures, etc.)?

If you can get a few minutes with it before plunking down your cash, I'd 
try to check it on all bands .. at least to make sure the display and 
asociated digital hardware is working properly.  Thats the only place I've 
ever had a failure with one.

Grant/NQ5T



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Re: [drakelist] R-7A/RV-75 Question

2004-01-08 Thread Grant Youngman

 Hello,
  I have recently obtained an RV-75 remote VFO for my R-7A.  I
  notice
 that when the RV-75 is plugged in to the adapter on the rear of the
 R-7A, and turned on to control receive frequency, received signals
 take on a very rough-sounding tone.  

If things are working properly, there should be no discernable 
difference on received signal purity with the RV-75.

It sounds like there is a problem either in the connection between 
the two units, or in the RV-75 itself.

I use an RV-75 with a TR-7/R-7 combination, and have never 
experienced a problem like you describe.

Grant/NQ5T

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