Re: [Drakelist] Looking For L7 or L75 Part

[Joe Loverti]

Ron,

I was in your exact shoes when I needed a replacement end cap for my  
L-7. For a while John Kiriner was selling replacements for these. If i  
recall they weren't very expensive either. He may very well still have  
some. I'd send him a note to find out.


73 with regards,

Joe Loverti Jr.
WS8X

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 17, 2011, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:


Looking For L7 or L75 Part
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[Drakelist] Power output difference between T-4XB and R-4A PTO's

[Joe Loverti]

Curt,
Thanks for the answer. I'm using the cable with metal tag for the injection.
I haven't tried tuning up the T-4XB without it plugged in -- I'll give it a
try an see what gives. If there's no difference, that would eliminate the
cable as the problem.

WW8X
Joe
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[Drakelist] Power output difference between T-4XB and R-4A PTO's

[Joe Loverti]

When I tune up using the T-4XB PTO on 40 meters, I'm getting about 60 watts
maximum. When I tune up using the R-4A PTO the power output is 95+ watts
maximum. There's also about a 10 db difference in receive between the two
units, the R-4A being the stronger receive of the two. I am using original
Drake interconnect cables between the two units. I'd expect some difference
between them, but this seems excessive. Any thoughts?

WW8X
Joe


On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:

> Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
>drakelist@zerobeat.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. MN-2000 original manual FS (K9sqg)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 10:17:21 -0400
> From: K9sqg 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: [Drakelist] MN-2000 original manual FS
> Message-ID: <8cddf8f9bb94bd2-21a8-4...@webmail-m142.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> Fellow Drake enthusiasts,
>
>
>
> Have an original manual for the Drake MN-2000 tuner.  No writing on the
> pages, QC tag stapeled the back side of the front cover.  Blue spiral has
> some breaks due to age.  $20 shipped Priority Mail to your address.  Can
> only ship to a US address.
>
>
> Enjoy those Drakes.
>
>
> 73,
>
>
> Evan, K9SQG
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>
> End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 35, Issue 14
> *
>
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Re: [Drakelist] L4B (Harbach Soft Start)

[Joe Loverti]

I put a Harbach Soft Start in my Heathkit SB-200. It was wired correctly and
installed per instructions – everything was double and triple checked. When
I powered up the amp the Harbach Soft Start immediately when up in smoke –
boy did it stink up the shack for a few days.

I contacted Jeff Harbach and told him what had happened. He told me I must
have done something wrong well, that is remotely possible I guess. He
didn't offer to replace the kit and I didn't ask. But, I seriously doubt I
did anything wrong...I've built many kits in the past and have a good track
record with them.

Later, on the Yahoo Heathkit amp forum, I found out Harbach Soft Starts are
not without problems – a bad or sticky relay coul to begin with. Other guys
have had similar problems with them.

The L4B is obviously a much different animal than an SB-200... but, for what
it's worth, that's my story with a Harbach Soft Start.

Joe WW8X
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB / Heathkit SB-200 connection cable needed

[Joe Loverti]

Hi Don, Thanks for getting back with me about the cable. Thanks for the
advice.
Joe
WW8X
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[Drakelist] T-4XB / Heathkit SB-200 connection cable needed.

[Joe Loverti]

Hi guys,
I want to use my Heathkit SB-200 amp with my T-4XB. Does anyone have a
source for the interconnect cable or instructions on how to fabricate one?
Thanks in advance!
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[Drakelist] Need MN-2000 Band switch knob

[Joe Loverti]

I over tightened the set screw and cracked it. I'm tired of gluing it
together every couple of months. There was a source listed in the Drake
source list, but they don't carry any of those knobs anymore. Does anyone
have an alternate source?
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A low audio output

[Joe Loverti]

Thanks for the responses to my question. As far as C126 goes, that's one I
swapped out when I did an initial recap when I got the receiver.
I've swapped out the C126, C131, 12AV6 and the 6EH5... R44 reads correctly
and there's 3 volts at the cathode of 6EH5.

There is improvement in the audio output! Now at this point I have to turn
the pot to about 11 o'clock to get the audio loud enough for comfortable
listening, instead of 1 o'clock. I have an S-7 meter reading with the
calibrator turned 80 meters. I still have more checking to do. Really
appreciate the help.
Thanks!

WW8X
Joe Loverti Sr.
Miamis
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A low audio output

[Joe Loverti]

Thanks for all the input/suggestions... much appreciated!
Here's an update:
ESR of the 6EH5 cathode cap (10mf/25V) is: 97
When I jumper in a replacement: (10mf/16V) cap there is a slight noticeable
increase in volume.
Voltage at the cathode pin reads: 2.99 Volts
Both the 6EH5 and 6GS6 tubes check OK.
Direct substitution with a new 6EH5 makes no difference.
I don't have a new another 6GS6 to test in circuit.
Where can I find a 13 tube schematic? I'm having trouble locating the other
components mentioned to check.
Yes. I know I need to buy Garey's CDs !!

WW8X
Joe Loverti Sr.
Miamisburg, Ohio
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[Drakelist] R-4A low audio output

[Joe Loverti]

I have a 13-tube, R-4A receiver that is an excellent performer and fun radio
to use – except for one issue: the audio output seems to be a bit low: Is it
normal to have the volume control at nearly 1 o'clock for normal,
comfortable listening? Other Drake and non-Drake receivers seem to have a
comfortable audio level about 9 o'clock. Is there a way to boost this
receiver's audio output or is there something obvious to check? Any
suggestions always appreciated. Thanks in advance and happy holidays to all
the Drake list folks.

WW8X
Joe Loverti Sr.
Miamisburg, Ohio
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Re: [Drakelist] Amplifier Connector for AC4

[Joe Loverti]

Kevin,

Send an email to k...@aol.com (Kevin). He makes very high quality amp  
interconnects for the T-4X. They are less than $20 shipped.  Plug in  
and play. Highly reccomended!


73 and God Bless

Joe
WS8X

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 22, 2010, at 3:29 PM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:


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   drakelist@zerobeat.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
   http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
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You can reach the person managing the list at
   drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Amplifier Connector for AC4 (Kevin Nathan)
  2. Re: Amplifier Connector for AC4 (Curt Nixon)
  3. Re: Amplifier Connector for AC4 (Diane and Edward Swynar)
  4. Re: Amplifier Connector for AC4 (Curt Nixon)
  5. Re: Amplifier Connector for AC4 (Terry Taylor)
  6. Re: Amplifier Connector for AC4 (Curt Nixon)
  7. Re: PROBLEM FOUND ---OT Help on RF interference(NewQTH)
 (Tom Holmes)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 09:42:52 -0800
From: "Kevin Nathan" 
To: 
Subject: [Drakelist] Amplifier Connector for AC4
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi All,

I just put my T4XC on the air with a refurbished AC4 but want to  
drive my L7
with it.  I am given to understand the connector for the amp relay  
is an odd
ball you can't find anywhere.  I am totally blind and soldering  
things for
me is very difficult.  Does anyone on the list have one of these  
connectors

you might sell or another really simple solution?

Thanks much and very 73.


Kevin :)
Amateur Radio:  K7RX


-- next part --
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--

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 13:49:22 -0500
From: Curt Nixon 
To: k...@comcast.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Amplifier Connector for AC4
Message-ID: <4d124832.2010...@flash.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hi Kevin:

THe solution most seen recommended is to make up a plug using some  
hobby

copper tubing and a small pc of plexiglass.  But that is perhaps not
possible with limited vision.

The simplest is to just forget the connector and run a pair of wires
into the AC4..OR pick those points up at the connector an the back of
the T4x.  It is simply a contact closure on an isolated set of  
contacts

on the TR relay that was cabled over to the AC4.  If you use a DC
operated relay and one side can be grounded, the two pin recept on the
AC4 can be replaced with a RCA phono jack.

The original plug, shipped with the T4x is a simple two pin  
plug ..pins

are .094" dia  and the center-center spacing is .343"

It is possible to re-work a standard 300 ohm twinlead coupler by  
moving

one of the pins to the right spacing.

Curt
KU8L


Kevin Nathan wrote:

Hi All,

I just put my T4XC on the air with a refurbished AC4 but want to  
drive

my L7 with it.  I am given to understand the connector for the amp
relay is an odd ball you can't find anywhere.  I am totally blind and
soldering things for me is very difficult.  Does anyone on the list
have one of these connectors you might sell or another really simple
solution?

Thanks much and very 73.


Kevin :)
Amateur Radio:  K7RX


--- 
-


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--

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 14:15:32 -0500
From: "Diane and Edward Swynar" 
To: ,
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Amplifier Connector for AC4
Message-ID: <005f01cba20c$9c008c60$650aa...@compaq>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Guys,

Y'know, it's been awhile since I looked at this, but it struck at  
one time
that a defunct FT-243 crystal holder might make a fine "Bubba" plug  
for this

application...

I got distreacted with other stuff at the time, and put the project  
way up
on the back-burner---maybe I should re-examine the whole thing once  
again.


~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ


***








- Original Message -
From: "Curt Nixon" 
To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Amplifier Connector for AC4



Hi Kevin:

THe solution most seen recommended is to make up a plug using some  
hobby

copper tubing and a small pc of plexiglass.  But that is perhaps not
possible with limited vision.

The simplest is to just forget the connector a

Re: [Drakelist] L-7, 3-500Z filament out??

[Joe Loverti]

Thanks for the replies Everyone,

I'm gathering that it's possible for the pins to look good, with a  
nice closure on the end of the pin, even though the solder has re- 
melted and disassociated from the wire up inside??


As suggested, I will attempt to re-solder the filament pins and see  
what happens. I guess nothing would be lost, as the alternative is  
purchasing another tube.


Does anyone have any suggestions for what type of solder and flux  
should be used in this process? Are there any special considerations  
that should be taken into account here due to the heat sensitivity of  
the application?



73 with regards,

Joe Loverti Jr.
WS8X


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[Drakelist] L-7, 3-500Z filament out??

[Joe Loverti]

Hello to All-

Let me preface this by stating that I am very "green" at  
troubleshooting amplifiers, so please bear with me :)


I've owned and operated a Drake L-7 amplifier for several years  
without incident. The other day I noticed my output pwr was diminished  
by about 400 watts. I had a look at the back of the RF deck and  
noticed the outboard 3-500Z filament was extinguished. After the  
sinking feeling set it in, I un-plugged everything and took the cover  
off the amp. I pulled the tube that was un-lit and inspected it  
visually. I could see no signs of anything cooked, cracked, burnt, et  
al. I decided to swap the tube positions and put the good tube in the  
outboard socket and put the bad tube in the other socket. I put  
everything back together and lit the amp off again. I noticed that  
both filaments were now glowing brightly and I was getting full output  
again in my dummy load.


All was OK for a day or so. Then yesterday, I noticed the filament was  
out again on the tube that was switched. Only now this tube was in the  
other socket. I've read on the web that it's common to the solder on  
the filament pins on the 3-500Z to run out due to heat over time. This  
causes a bad connection between the filament pins and the tube socket.  
I've inspected the pins on the tube and they do not reveal any signs  
of solder leaking out of the bottoms whatsoever. They all look  
perfectly intact. I also inspected the socket and the "pin grippers"  
in the sockets. They look to be in good shape and seem fairly snug. I  
cleaned the contacts with a Q-tip and some De-oxit while I was in there.


Some research on the Web suggested that a check of continuity is  
recommended to see if the tube is the culprit and / or if it can be  
fixed. I tested the filament pins (1 and 5) on the suspected culprit  
3-500Z and I AM reading continuity. But... the reading jumps around  
and isn't stable. I also tested the wires above the pins that lead up  
into the envelope of the tube. The readings here are also showing  
continuity but, aren't stable. The meter jumps around a lot. I'm  
planning on checking the "good" tube tomorrow to see how the readings  
compare on it. I did not have time enough to get to it today.


Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what might be the cause  
or if there are other tests I could conduct to help diagnose the  
issue? I suppose I could go and buy a new set of bottles for the  
amplifier. The tubes that are currently in the amp are most likely the  
original Eimac's. They have had a long service life. I think I'd  
rather get do some more testing before "throwing tubes" at a problem.  
Especially, if there is something else that I may be overlooking due  
to inexperience.


As usual, thanks for your time and assistance going forward!

Happy Christmas and New Year,

Joe Loverti Jr.
WS8X


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Re: [Drakelist] Hearing 2 PTOs at the same time?

[Joe Loverti]

Gary,
I found the original drake injection cable... it has a metal tag crimped to
it that reads: INJ. When I use that cable my RF output on the T-4XB
increases nearly 30 watts! It feels like I installed a new set of finals.
And the problem of the PTOs has disappeared. Nothing like original
equipment!
Thanks!
73,
WW8X
Joe Loverti Sr.
Miamisburg, Ohiio
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Re: [Drakelist] Hearing 2 PTOs at the same time?

[Joe Loverti]

Gary, I will be sure to check that out. Thanks for that information!

73,
WW8X
Joe Loverti Sr.
Miamisburg, Ohio
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[Drakelist] Hearing 2 PTOs at the same time?

[Joe Loverti]

Guys:
My T-4XB and R-4A have been working well together the last few weeks. But,
tonight I noticed an odd problem that I'm hoping is an easy fix.

When I have the transmitter controlling the frequency its PTO has little
effect – I continue to hear the receiver PTO and turning the receiver PTO
knob changes frequency. In fact, I can actually hear both PTOs on different
frequencies, as if both PTOs are working with the receiver's being the
dominant or louder of the two. The SPOT still works however. This is weird
and I've never experienced this before and it started all of a sudden
tonight.

What the heck is going on?
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[Drakelist] Sudden power loss on T-4XC... A Weird Solution!

[Joe Loverti]

Richard, It's not only the transmitters that are getting old!! Hi.
Yes, the glue under the cap was crystallized and thin wire broke off.
Luckily there was enough left to allow me to attach another wire to it and
the cap.

I didn't use any glue to re-attach it, I just soldered it in place.
Hopefully it will hold.

73,
Joe
WW8X
Miamisburg,
Ohio
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[Drakelist] Sudden power loss on T-4XC... A Weird Solution!

[Joe Loverti]

Hi guys:
Last week my son in St. Louis (WS8X) posted a question about a sudden
transmit power loss on his newly purchased T-4XC. After trying some of the
suggestions he received with no success, he brought it home to me (WW8X) in
Miamisburg to take a look at before having a pro find the problem.

I took the top of the RF cage off and noticed the cap on one of the 6JB6s
was loose. I touched it and it broke clean away from the tube! I also
noticed the resistor connections to the plate caps were weak... so weak that
with a small jiggle, they both broke loose. I re-soldered the plate cap back
to the small wire that was luckily still sticking out of the tube and
re-soldered the plate cap resistors back in place. When we turned the rig on
we got full RF power out on all bands!! I was luckily able to repair it
without buying new finals. Problem solved.

I'm wondering how common is it for a plate cap to break away from a 6JB6
like that? It seemed awfully weird for that to have happened??

73,
Joe
WW8X
Miamisburg
Ohio
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Re: [Drakelist] R4A preselector slippage

[Joe Loverti]

Here's a progress report or update on the preselector slippage issue.
Gary Poland sent me a solution and a diagram explaining his fix. I tried it
last night it worked very well.

To those with a similar problem you might want to try Gary's suggestion, if
you're not already familiar with it.

Basically here's what I did:

   1. Loosen the two screws that connect the coupler to the main shaft.
   2. Remove the outer knob and red pointer to allow you to remove the front
   assembly.
   3. When reassembling add a small spacer between the two shafts to force
   the front shaft forward.
   4. When you reattach the coupler you've have basically forced the
   bearings to ride on the non-worn part of the front shaft, restoring the
   preselector functioning.


Here's a link to Gary's diagram so you can visualize the fix:

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x304/vortigerncrancocc/drakevenierdrivefix.jpg

It's slick and worked for me. Thanks Gary Poland!!
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[Drakelist] My AC-4 is humming just a little.

[Joe Loverti]

Hi guys:
I've rebuilt my AC-4 using the Heathkit Shop Kit recently and all went well.
All the voltages read within range and I'm happy with the rebuild and the
kit.

I have the AC-4 mounted inside the MS-4 cabinet and it sits atop my MN2000
with brand new rubber feet, yet I can hear a very low AC hum coming from the
cabinet. It's not coming from the speaker because I can hear the same low
level AC hum with the speaker cable disconnected. It's not enough to really
bother me and I only hear it when the room is quiet and the audio from the
rig is turned down. I'm just wondering if this is normal or do I have an
issue that I need to take care of.

Any ideas certainly most welcome. Thanks.

Joe
WW8X
Miamisburg
Ohio
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?

[joe loverti]

Garey,

I'm not sure I mentioned this to you or not. When I first realized I was
having this trouble with the low output on the TX I heard some kind of a
sound when I was tuning up. This was right at the onset of the trouble.
After hearing that sound is when I noticed my plate and RF out was way low.
Its been like this ever since I heard the sound. I can't really accurately
describe it other than a "flash" or a "sizzle". Not sure if it was an arc or
what. I don't see anything on the variable capacitors that indicate that an
arc occurred. I was not using an amp at the time. Just tuning up barefoot
into my DL and at a fairly low power level. Could a component have failed?

I'm a little hesitant to attempt an alignment myself. I don't consider
myself much of a technician. I will read up on that procedure some more
before I give it a go.

Also, I am getting the exact same results whether I'm using the RCVR, XMTR,
or in separate to tune up.

73 and thanks!

-Joe
WS8X
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?

[joe loverti]

Garey,

I've taken the readings as you have suggested and here's what I'm getting.
Upon visual inspection of R44 it looks to be in good physical shape. Nothing
burnt or fried etc. The value reads 696 Ohms.

The readings I get from each pin of V4 are as follows:

1. 001
2. -1.22
3. 001
4. 0
5. 0
6. No connection
7. 237
8. 166.6
9. 0

Another note to mention... I ordered WB4HFN's interconnect cables. I've
hooked the T-4XC up to my R-4B using them tonight. Upon tune up, I'm
noticing I'm getting about 25-30 W out of the transmitter with the new
cables. Before I was only getting about 10W max after my problem started.

Regards and thanks for your continued help!

-Joe
WS8X

Regards and thanks for the continued assistance.
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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 29, Issue 14

[joe loverti]

Garey and *all* that have provided guidance in my pursuit of the T-4XC
problems. Thanks very much for your input and time.

I DO have side tone on CW and I hear the expected signal in the receiver
when I key the transmitter in spot mode.

-Joe in St. Louis
WS8X



On Thu, Nov 11, 2010 at 11:00 AM,  wrote:

> Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
>drakelist@zerobeat.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: "To Boldly Go..." (LONG!) (Garey Barrell)
>   2. Re: R4A preselector slippage (Joe Loverti)
>   3. Re: T-4XC sudden loss of RF output (joe loverti)
>   4. Re: T-4XC sudden loss of RF output (Garey Barrell)
>   5. T-4X tune switch (Howard Traxler)
>   6. Re: "To Boldly Go..." (LONG!) (Jim Shorney)
>   7. Drake 26.1 MHz crystal for R-4C (Donley)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 13:15:06 -0500
> From: Garey Barrell 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] "To Boldly Go..." (LONG!)
> Message-ID: <4cdae12a.6070...@mindspring.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Eddy -
>
> Very nice!  Glad it went well, and we can all learn.  I have seen
> problems with the 'Dur-Mica' (brown epoxy 'dog-bone') caps.  The
> slivering 'migrates' onto the ends of the mica sheets and can form
> shorts.  This usually show up in caps with higher DC voltages on them,
> I've never seen it in a PTO.  Certainly seems that in your case you just
> had some crumbly solder.  Only took 50 years for it to show up!!  :-)
>
> Thanks for reporting back and added to the knowledge base!
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
> TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
> Edward Swynar wrote:
> > different wires&  parts of the PTO---but when I applied even the gentlest
> of
> > pressure on one side only of C89---a 3000-pfd. maroon-coloured silver
> mica
> > cap in the oscillator tank---the exact same warbble&  instability of
> before
> > started anew! I then pressed the other side of this same capacitor, and
> the
> > signal stabilized.
> >
> > H...sounded like a bad / "aged" solder joint of sorts to me, so I
> > applied heat to both points on the board contacting the capacitor's
> leads,
> > causing the solder therein to re-flow. I then attempted to again induce
> the
> > instability of before, but could only make the PTO frequency change
> slightly
> > in frequency, much as was done before by applying pressure to the other
> > side...
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 13:50:29 -0500
> From: Joe Loverti 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A preselector slippage
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Interesting comments and I have no doubt you guys have nailed the
> problem...
> simply, old age!!
>
> The good news is: I can get the preselector pointer to move into the 15 and
> 10 meter sections if I pull the knob very hard towards me as I turn it to
> the right -- not an ideal solution -- but, it does work.
>
> Thanks for your input!
>
> 73,
> Joe
> WW8X
> Miamisburg, Ohio
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20101110/6ff31ea3/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 13:11:26 -0600
> From: joe loverti 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output
> Message-ID:
>
> 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Thanks to all that have replied in with regard to my T-4XC. All connections
> have been checked and double checked with no joy.
>
> Garey...
>
> A little more background and specifics... All was working perfectly fine
> until I had the bright idea to employ the use of an "el cheapo" antenna A/B
> switc

Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output

[joe loverti]

Thanks to all that have replied in with regard to my T-4XC. All connections
have been checked and double checked with no joy.

Garey...

A little more background and specifics... All was working perfectly fine
until I had the bright idea to employ the use of an "el cheapo" antenna A/B
switch to change from my Drakes to my modern rig. I went to tune up w/ the
antenna switch in-line and this is when I noticed that my plate current was
WAY lower than it normally is. Normally, a the beginning of the tune up
sequence (with the XTR gain at 9 o'clock) I get a reading of .2 amperes of
plate. After the tune up is complete I usually see the plate at .3 or a
little more. Now the most I can muster is .2 amperes. The RF tune has little
or no effect. Max out is a little over 10 watts. I was getting over 100
watts easily on all bands before. Could my finals have failed? I am no
technician but, it seems like this would have happened more gradually.

I am getting plate current, just way down from where it was at.

RF tune does peak but, it's way down from where it was. Only about .2
amperes.

I've gotten the same results on all the bands that I've tried, 80, 40, and
20.

Thanks for the help!

-Joe Loverti Jr (WS8X)

St. Louis, MO, not Miamisburg, OH
A lot of folks get my Dad (WW8X) and I confused ;D
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Re: [Drakelist] R4A preselector slippage

[Joe Loverti]

Interesting comments and I have no doubt you guys have nailed the problem...
simply, old age!!

The good news is: I can get the preselector pointer to move into the 15 and
10 meter sections if I pull the knob very hard towards me as I turn it to
the right -- not an ideal solution -- but, it does work.

Thanks for your input!

73,
Joe
WW8X
Miamisburg, Ohio
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[Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?

[joe loverti]

Hello,

I'm hoping someone could get me pointed in the right direction with regard
to my T-4XC. I've been achieving 100W or above (depending on the band) from
the radio consistently in the past. In fact, as recent as a day ago. This
afternoon I was tuning up to operate on 80M and now I'm only getting 10W max
into a known DL. What would be the cause of this sudden loss of output?

Thank you advance!

-Joe
WS8X
St. Louis, MO
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[Drakelist] R4A preselector slippage

[Joe Loverti]

Fellows I have a question about the preselector on my R4A:
The red pointer doesn't want to move past the 15 mark on the dial face. If I
apply some light upward pressure to the bar connected to the three tuning
slugs the dial will pointer will move up to the 10 mark and pull the slugs
further out of the tuning coils. I believe the red pointer is correct
because on the lower bands: 80 / 40 / 20 it falls within the correct range
when tuning the receiver. I can't see any obvious slipping of the mechanism
and wonder what's going on?
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Re: [Drakelist] D-104 microphone wiring question

[Joe Loverti]

Jim Shorney... thanks for that great advice about Google... I'll have to
check that out sometime. Amazing, you can actually search for information
and get answers? Who would of ever thought??
HI HI...
73
Joe
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[Drakelist] D-104 microphone wiring question (solved)

[Joe Loverti]

Thanks to you all who replied to my question about the microphone hook-up.
Got it working... Best regards,
73,
Joe
WW8X
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[Drakelist] D-104 microphone wiring question

[Joe Loverti]

I'm trying to wire a D-104 Silver Eagle to my T4XB and not having much luck.

There's 5 wires from the mike: White w/Shield, Black, Red, Blue and Yellow.
I believe the correct wiring to the S230 would be:
Red to tip, White to middle (audio) and Black and Shield to ground? Any
suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
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Re: [Drakelist] Microphone feedback though speaker problem (solved)

[Joe Loverti]

Thanks to you guys that responded... turning the R4A function to Ext. Mute.
solved the problem. One of these days, I'm going to learn how to use these
radios!! Baby steps!
Thanks again!
Joe
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[Drakelist] Microphone feedback though speaker problem

[Joe Loverti]

Using my TX4B and R4A I'm getting an annoying audio feedback from the
microphone through the MS4 speaker. This feedback occurs using several
different microphones (Turner +3 and Shure 444) and into both a dummy load
or the antenna. The radio's chassis are connected to earth ground. Have you
got any ideas what I'm doing wrong?
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[Drakelist] AC-4 rebuild problem (Solved)

[Joe Loverti]

Bad solder joint... went back in and reheated the solder connections to the
PCB... powers up fine now!!
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[Drakelist] AC-4 rebuild problem

[Joe Loverti]

I'm rebuilding an AC-4 using the heathkitshop kit. I've got it all wired and
double (even triple) checked all the wiring. I don't see any problems. When
I power it up I get sparks and arching sizzle from where one of the red
wires attaches to the PCB pad.  This is the 2nd one I've rebuilt... the
first one went fine with no issues.

I will add that the components of the kit are good quality. However, the
instructions are in serious need of attention.

I'd appreciate any ideas, fellows?
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[Drakelist] L-7 screws?

[Joe Loverti]

Hello,

I've been searching for 2 screws for my L-7 amp. They are the ones  
that secure the platic side covers to the cabinet. They've been quite  
a challenge to locate!


Was wondering if anyone knows of a source for a suitable replacement  
or if anyone had any extra of these type of machine screws they'd be  
willing to sell.


Thanks again for all the advice and help I've received from this list!

Joe
WS8X

Sent from my iPhone

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[Drakelist] R. L. Drake Co., Lobby Display youtube link

[Joe Loverti]

Fellows:
I visited R. L. Drake Co., today and took a video of the display they have
in the lobby. I was nearly blown away when I first saw it – I thought many
of you would like to see it if you haven't already. Bill Frost was largely
responsible for the display and did an awesome job with it. Thanks to Bill
Frost, Bob Drake and the R. L. Radio Co., for preserving an important era in
the history of amateur radio and American manufacturing genius. The link is
here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Py4BraHUFY

73,
Joe
WW8X
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Re: [Drakelist] Dead Calibrator and NB on R4A SOLVED!!

[Joe Loverti]

Thanks Richard Knoppow... You are so right!!
If only I would read the manual FIRST!!
>From the manual:
*"3. MUTE JACK – The MUTE JACK is for externally muting and unmuting the
receiver. The receiver is muted when the FUNCTION switch is in the EXT-MUTE,
N.B., and CAL positions and when the center conductor of the jack is open
from ground. Shorting the center conductor to ground returns the receiver to
the receive condition."*
*
*
Joe
WW8X
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[Drakelist] Dead Calibator and NB on R4A

[Joe Loverti]

Hi guys,
More questions about my R4A restoration.

I finished replacing the filter caps and replaced some other tubular caps
and was delighted that there were no sparks when I powered it up. Thanks to
Bill Frost I was able to get my passband shaft coupler reinstalled and it's
FB now.

When I attempt to use the calibrator or NB the S-meter goes full scale (as
if in mute) -- the receiver goes dead quite. The calibrator worked before I
swapped caps. The NB never did work and always caused the meter to go full
scale mute.

Another odd thing is the tuning is extremely sensitive on SSB. I have to
tune very slow to get the audio to be understandable. Sometimes it's near
impossible to tune a SSB signal clearly. AM broadcast and CW -- no problem.

I did a side-by-side comparison with my ICOM 746 and the R4A is receiving as
good, if not better. And the overall audio is much more pleasing and
adjustable with the R4A.

I obviously have a problem with the calibrator and NB... and maybe the
sensitive tuning is just the nature of an R4A... I don't know.

Suggestions are welcome and appreciated.

Joe
WW8X
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[Drakelist] R4A passband tuning shaft coupler

[Joe Loverti]

Hi guys:
I took off the front panel of my R4A to clean the grime off of it and it's
looking like new! I'm putting it back together and I'm having a dickens of a
time trying to reassemble the passband tuning shaft and coupler. As you know
there's a small spring clip that goes under the sliding brass sleeve... it
wasn't too hard taking it apart, but putting it back together is new a ball
game. Your tips and suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Best regards,
Joe Sr.
WW8X
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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 27, Issue 23

[Joe Loverti]

Thanks for the links and tip on capacitor kit. Garey is correct my capacitor
is a 4 section (100, 100, 100, 20 @ 200 WV) NOT a 5 section cap . I just may
be able to get 4 of them inside the can since I don't need 5 like I
originally stated.
Best regards,
Joe Sr.
WW8X

On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 4:43 PM,  wrote:

> Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
>drakelist@zerobeat.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: R4A restuff capacitor question (Garey Barrell)
>   2. Re: R4A restuff capacitor question (ph...@aol.com)
>   3. Re: R4A restuff capacitor question (Dino Papas)
>   4. Re: PSK31 & B-Line Twins (Brian Koontz)
>   5. Drake 2C Manaual (jsloss)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 12:45:36 -0400
> From: Garey Barrell 
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A restuff capacitor question
> To: drakelist 
> Message-ID: <4c939b30.4030...@mindspring.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Joe -
>
> Well, the first question is, where do you come up with five caps?   The
> original R-4A is a three section, 100/100/100 @ 200 VDC.  Another
> section, 20 @ 200 was added 'officially' in the second version, at s/n
> 3040.  But both three and four sections caps have been found 'in the
> wild' in the early version one units.
>
> Tom at www.hayseedhamfest.com has replacements in stock generally that
> drop right in.  I think he supplies four section caps for all versions.
>
> Adding caps under the chassis works too, just be sure to disconnect the
> can cap terminals completely.  It can be a little crowded.
>
> Ultimately, it's your radio and your decision!  :-)
>
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
>
> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
> TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
> 
>
>
> Joe Loverti wrote:
> > Hi guys,
> > I'm working on a early serial number (2213) 13-tube R4A receiver. I'd
> > like to restuff the electrolytic can with new capacitors. It looks
> > like a very tight fit using (4) 100 x 250V and (1) 20 x 250V new caps
> > (total of 5 capacitors) in that old can. How do you feel about
> > mounting new caps in underneath the chassis instead of restuffing?
> > Does that pretty much ruin the historic value of a radio? Of course,
> > I'd leave the old can in place for looks.
> > Thanks for you opinions in advance.
> > Joe
> > WW8X
> >
>
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 14:49:38 EDT
> From: ph...@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A restuff capacitor question
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Message-ID: <204190.2cfa0a7a.39c51...@aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Joe,
>
>You can buy complete re-capping kits for the R-4A  (both 13 and 11-tube
> versions) from Hayseed Hamfest at the following link:
>
> _http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/_ (http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/)
>
>I just re-capped one of each type using the  Hayseed Hamfest kits and
> they work great!  Garey is correct, the can  cap supplied in the kit for
> either version is the same, i.e., three (3) 100 uf  sections and one (1) 22
> uf
> section.  On some R-4A 13-tube jobs the 22 uf  section isn't used, but on
> others it is and the extra 22 uf electrolytic in the  kit isn't needed.
>  You'll
> have to look carefully at how yours is configured  and proceed from there,
> possibly even tracing the circuit to make sure you know  which
> electrolytics
> are used and where.  If you have the *ORIGINAL* manual  for your radio the
> schematic is probably correct, but if you have a copy of the  manual
> there's
> a better than even chance that what the schematic shows is not  exactly how
> the radio is configured.
>
>The only real difficulty with installing the kit is  unsoldering and
> removing the old can.  Since one of the soldered ground  lugs is
> practically
> underneath the little transformer you'll have to unbolt the  transformer
> and
> move it aside.  One of the screws for the transformer is  underneath the
> PTO
> assembly but you should be able to s

[Drakelist] R4A restuff capacitor question

[Joe Loverti]

Hi guys,
I'm working on a early serial number (2213) 13-tube R4A receiver. I'd like
to restuff the electrolytic can with new capacitors. It looks like a very
tight fit using (4) 100 x 250V and (1) 20 x 250V new caps (total of 5
capacitors) in that old can. How do you feel about mounting new caps in
underneath the chassis instead of restuffing? Does that pretty much ruin the
historic value of a radio? Of course, I'd leave the old can in place for
looks.
Thanks for you opinions in advance.
Joe
WW8X
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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 27, Issue 14

[Joe Loverti]

Thanks for the correct wiring info! Problem solved there :)

Made my first SSB contact on 75M last night. Still only getting about  
100 watts out. The output seems to be fluctuating after tune up.


73

Joe
WS8X

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 14, 2010, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:


Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
   drakelist@zerobeat.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
   http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
   drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
   drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re: Saga continues... (Jim Shorney)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 23:24:00 -0500
From: "Jim Shorney" 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Saga continues...
To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
Message-ID: <20100914042343.202fc3b3...@mail02.inebraska.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Thanks for confirming what I had already written at the bottom of my  
reply below... :)


On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 23:38:23 -0400, Richard Palmer wrote:

Improper wiring could make the rig key up when plugged in. This  
takes out

the receive.




On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 9:31 PM, Jim Shorney  
 wrote:



On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:06:45 -0500, Joe Loverti wrote:


Anyone have the correct wiring method for these mics?


Still puzzles me why this would cut the rx out even wired  
incorrectly.


All Shure mic data sheets can be found here:

http://www.shure.com/americas/support/user-guides/all-user-guides/index.htm

I've found errors in various online wiring guides posted by well- 
meaning

hams. In a nutshell:

White = Audio
Red = PTT
Black + Shield = ground

Red goes to tip, white to ring, and black/shield to the shell.

A miswired mic can key a transmitter, which will give the symptom  
you

describe.

73

-Jim






--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,  
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to  
Google, and he will learn for a lifetime."


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org





--

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End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 27, Issue 14
*


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[Drakelist] Saga continues...

[Joe Loverti]

Thanks to All so far with helping me with the TR-4C troubleshooting  
chores.


Today I wired up the .208 connector to the mic and plugged it in. Now  
my rx goes deaf when I pulg the mic into the mic jack??


I used a wiring diagram I found on line to wire the mic up. The mic is  
a Swan branded desk mic made by Shure. I believe it's a Shure 444D  
model.


Anyone have the correct wiring method for these mics?

Still puzzles me why this would cut the rx out even wired incorrectly.

Thanks,

Joe
WS8X

Sent from my iPhone

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[Drakelist] TR-4C 1 meg resistor not connected?

[joe loverti]

Hello Drake List Members,

I was doing some visual inspection of the bottom chassis of my TR-4C tonight
and noticed an anomaly that I was hoping to get some guidance on.

On pin 9 of tube V1 there is a 1meg resistor sticking up through a hole in
the chassis (near the PNB-34 blanker circuit) that isn't connected to
anything. The blanker IS installed on this radio. Does this resistor need to
be connected to something or does this seems normal "as is"?

Thanks in advance for your continued assistance!

-Joe
WS8X
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[Drakelist] TX4B saga continues... some hope.

[Joe Loverti]

My earlier posted weird voltages resolved themselves after making sure the
relay was working. Now voltages look normal.

Good news: I was able to crank out 150 watts on 80 meters into a dummy load.
There's life in this old girl!

However, I can't get any output on other bands. I noticed when I tuned up on
40 meters if I move the RF tune control down into the 80 meter range I get
plate current. But, no plate current when the RF tune is where it should be.
No output on the other bands no matter where the RF tune control is
positioned.

Does this sound like an alignment issue?? I'm so new at this I feel like a
novice again. I guess I am... but, that's OK. I'm just real happy she put
out RF on 80 meters.

As always, suggestions welcomed and much appreciated.

Joe Sr.
WW8X
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[Drakelist] T4XB Out of wack voltages at 6JB6s

[Joe Loverti]

Hi guys... I'm needing some technical advice about some odd voltage readings
with my ailing T4XB.
I ran voltage checks tonight and compared them with the chart in the manual.
All read normal except these:
V5 – 6JB6 – Pins 3 and 9 both read: 140V (manual says should read: .3V and
.9V respectively)
V6 – 6JB6 – Pins 3 and 9 both read: 140V (manual says should read: .3V and
.9V respectively)
V3 – 6AU6 – Pin 7 reads: 140V (manual says it should read: 2.35V)
Voltages were taken with the function switch in Tune (gain fully counter
clockwise)
Made no difference switch function switch to SSB.
Those voltages seem really out of wack... got any ideas?
Thanks,
Joe
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[Drakelist] TR-4C TX issue

[Joe Loverti]

   Thanks Everyone for your responses and information. Mr. Frost, I  
just may want to buy one of those switches from you. Do you have any  
idea on a proper way to mount it? The original is riveted into the  
chassis, so I'm a little concerned about how the case will fit.


   As far as the tx is concerned. I am getting more output from the  
transmitter. I adjusted the power supply bias as per the manual .1  
ampreres at idle. Last night I was able to get about 180-190 watts  
output on 80M into my MN-2000's watt meter. This was on my dummy load.  
After tune-up, the plate current was reading about .3 amperes. This  
seemed consistent with what the manual stated was within the normal  
range.


   I checked again today, (again on 80M) and noticed that the idle  
bias had drifted to where it was set last night. It was reading below . 
1 amperes. I re-adjusted it back into specs and attempted to tune up  
the tx again into my D.L. I was able to get about 190W out one time. I  
attempted tune-up again and was only able to get about 100W out. I am  
noticing that I have to re-adjust the P.S. bias as it seems to be  
fluctuating. I tried tuning-up on 40M and the results were about the  
same in terms of tx output (about 100-120 watts). I've noticed that my  
load control has to be almost fully clockwise in order to get the max  
power out. Last night this was not the case. I was achieving nearly  
200W out and the load control setting was only at 5.


Not sure what is going on here. Any insight would be appreciated!

Thanks and 73 with Regards.

Joe; WS8X

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[Drakelist] TR-4C RCV / XVCR switch

[Joe Loverti]

Hello Drake List Members,

I have a TR-4C w/ a few "gremlins" I'm trying to iron out. Was hoping  
someone may be able to point me on the right direction.


The RCVR / XCVR switch on the lower left-hand side of tbd chassis is  
bad. Does anyone know of a scource for a replacement? I have to hold  
the switch just so or else the RX goes deaf.


Secondly, I'm only able to coax about 65W out on TX. I've been  
following the instructions on pg 5-8 in the original manual? I'm only  
getting about .2-.3 amperes of plate current once tuned up. The manual  
states I should be seeing around .4 ampreres.


Any guidance would be much appriciated!

Regards and 73,

WS8X

Joe


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[Drakelist] Hot-to-the-touch AC-4

[Joe Loverti]

Hello:
I recently rebuilt my AC-4 with the heathkitshop replacement kit. I notice
that the PS runs hotter than before the rebuild.

I've not used it in 'transmit' mode yet (still working on my ailing R4XB)...
with the transmitter idling the AC-4 gets too hot to leave your hand on it
for more than just a few seconds. I don't remember it getting that warm
before the rebuilt. I remember hearing you should be able to leave your hand
on a transformer for at least half a minute or it's running too hot.

Just wondering if that's normal?

Thanks,
Joe
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[Drakelist] TX4B no plate current help needed

[Joe Loverti]

Hi... I'm new to this list and was hoping someone could point be in a
direction to solve this problem.
I recently purchased a TX4B that only has bias current, but I get can't any
deflection in the meter beyond that. I tested the tubes and found a weak
driver 12BY7A and replaced it with a new one. I've checked the continuity
between the 6JB6 tube caps and the B+ lug (#10) and it checks OK... Now
where should I look?
Any suggestions, greatly appreciated.
Joe
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[Drakelist] R4A ssb weirdness hard to tune

[Joe Loverti]

Hi, I just posted a question about my TX4B, but *also* have a problem with a
R4A receiver.

The receiver seems to work pretty good, except I do have some trouble tuning
LSB signals so they can be understood. In other words, garble is all I get.
The weirdness is that not all the signals are like that and tune OK with no
trouble. It's very puzzling -- got any ideas?
Thanks,
Joe
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