Re: [Drakelist] TR7 - CW and ALC level
I bought my new TR7 28 years ago (as my first rig ever) and am about to do do my first alignment check. I have re-seated the boards once, and that cured most of the ills. I have a late-model TR7, along with the maint manual. If I do it by the book, is there anything I should watch out for ??br/Tnxbr/Markbr/N5KAEa href=https://overview.mail.yahoo.com?.src=iOS;br/br/Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone/a___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Fwd: TR-4C S meter zero
Seems like this may also have to do with the alignment step on the filter matching transformer ??? br/Markbr/N5KAEa href=https://overview.mail.yahoo.com?.src=iOS;br/br/Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone/a___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7. Recommendations?
Good for you Tom ! I would look for a later serial number TR-7, with the A type features. It may even be labeled a TR-7A. Anyway, it is a great rig. I started with a used one about 26 years ago, and mine is still going strong (a little TLC over the years has kept it that way!). the serial number is in the 8600's, and had the A items already in it. The ones on ebay right now are pretty neat, but one looks like it is a lower serial number. They are VERY functional rigs actually, and don't have all the bells and whistles of todays rigs, but most of that stuff doesn't have much to do with catching the rare DX, or doing a great job of constesting !!! Best 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, March 22, 2013 4:43:25 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7. Recommendations? Good afternoon everyone, After a long absence from ham radio I am excited about re-entering the hobby and I am interested in acquiring a TR-7. It was my dream radio when career took me away from the hobby. Any words of wisdom you may have about the TR-7 would be most welcome. Is there anything I should particularly look for in a potential purchase? Any thoughts on what a TR-7 and power supply in good condition would cost? There is what appears to be a very nice one listed on EBay at the moment. Thanks and 73's Tom Ex WD5DFE ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 2-C
Try headpones and see if you can hear. If so, try some deoxit on the headphone jack switching contact. These contacts get dirty from time to time. Let us know how the progress goes. 73 Mark N5KAE From: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, September 10, 2012 8:16:31 PM Subject: [Drakelist] 2-C The received audio in my 2-C is completely dead. This had happened before and then resolved itself but is back. The S-meter still shows the calibrator signal, and feeding tone into the sidetone jack produces weak audio that is not very responsive to the AF gain control and is modulated with 60Hz.. No difference between the AM and either of the two sideband positions. There is a slight hum in the speaker and considerable hum on the 60uF section of the triple filter cap, which is a new replacement one. No audio on the mode switch. Advice? -- Charles Ring W3NU___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 4-Line PRESELECTOR drive vs RF TUNE drive
I think the tr3 just has a direct drive to the rf tune varicap. No reduction. 73 Mark N5KAE___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Microphone for 4 line
Yes. Sorry i didnt make that clear. 73 Mark N5KAE___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4
A number of years ago I bought about four AC4's, and installed 3-prong computer cords, with the ground attached to the AC4 chassis. I used the original strain relief, but carefully cut some of the plastic out of the original, just enough to accomodate the round cord. They all worked great. One thing I did not consider (and I need to go back and look), is the hot lead of the AC cord being on the fuse. I suppose for safety reasons I should have??? 73, Mark N5KAE From: Gary Poland gpola...@cinci.rr.com To: John Gartman johngart...@charter.net; DrakeList Zerobeat drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thu, January 19, 2012 8:43:08 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 John, As you suggested it would be easiest to just cut it off at the strain relief and re-terminate inside. You will only lose about 6 to 8 inches at best. 73, Gary___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
Not sure if any of the threads have mentioned this, but I like the DeOxit Pen. I think it is lower concentration, and works espcially well on tube pins. Mark N5KAE From: scpmil...@aol.com scpmil...@aol.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, December 24, 2011 8:55:37 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit I have an HP VTVM and when I first got it, the range switch seemed erratic. I made the mistake of liberally applying De-Oxit to the switch and boy, it got really erratic after that. It took 2 or 3 days of leaving it outside in the summer sun to get the switch to dry out and it's been great ever since but a very little bit goes a very long way. I learned about De-Oxit from an HP service guy only back then it was called Cramolin and came in a small bottle as a liquid. He would take a wooden Q-Tip, dip it in the bottle and brush it on computer card edge contacts, and then wipe it off! He claimed you only needed the very thinnest of films to insure a good contact. I thought he was BS'ing me but have since learned my lesson. Steve KD2ED In a message dated 12/23/2011 10:19:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wa2...@gmail.com writes: In addition to the wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning mentioned by Dennis, AE6C, I also use the brushes listed below. A drop of DeoxIT on either goes a long way. These brushes are great for cleaning 7 9 pin tube sockets: http://www.gumbrand.com/interdental-brushes/products/gum-go-betweens-proxabrush-cleaners-wide/872rn/ These brushes are good for cleaning RCA connectors, 8 pin and other larger tube sockets, etc: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-AB-50-/200-288 Ken WA2LBI On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 13:06, Dennis Monticelli dennis.montice...@gmail.com wrote: I have found that 100% DeOxit dries more slowly than the 5% stuff because the latter is mostly carrier. So allow a little extra time before powering up, especially with pots. A few hours should have been enough, so it seems that you applied too much. I almost always use the 100% stuff but I avoid droplets. Instead I apply the DeOxit to one of those wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning. The Q tip then does double duty of applicator and scrubber. This works really well for wafer switches and tube pins. For socket pins, I use a wooden toothpick that is coated with DeOxit. Once again it serves as applicator and scrubber. The Q tip and toothpick end up with a satisfying dark coloration of oxides with this method. Sufaces will glisten after cleaning but you won't see any red pooling. With DeOxit a little goes a very long way. Mild scrubbing with a rough absorbant surface such as wood or tightly woven Q tip physically removes the dissolved oxides. Dennis AE6C On 12/23/11, y...@aol.com y...@aol.com wrote: Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the chassis of dust ,damp cloth and proceeded to pull all the tubes and test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle being VERY careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the pots with the deoxit spray for pots. Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct, put back on the bench flipped the rig over and ALL the tube sockets and wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything. I then proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier. Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line receiver,even without a alignment. Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? The deoxit was brand new a week ago. I think I will star with the 100% alcohol,like I used to use. everybody have a Merry Christmas dale wt4t ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear
This is a bad thought, but we have all seen the big crushers for wrecked cars. I wonder if a little crusher exists for radio hulks like this. Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: lee pulsa...@embarqmail.com; John Brown brown...@optusnet.com.au; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, December 21, 2011 7:53:31 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear Two people have bid on it, I see. Could it be one of you? On one level, it would be interesting to see if someone could get it to work at all. After all, pseudo-antique shops are making the Big Bux selling Shabby Chic these days and using furniture with distressed paint, etc. Then again, someone could make a mobile out of it. Would it then be a mobile rig? Ducking... Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I swear by my life, and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine. -Ayn Rand. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. -- From: lee pulsa...@embarqmail.com Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 8:27 PM To: John Brown brown...@optusnet.com.au; 'Steve Wedge' w1es1...@earthlink.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear In a few days you will find someone on here asking how do you remove rust and make a cabinet and chassis look like new again. What brand of stuff in a bottle will do this in 5 minutes or less. Then they will add, please, no suggestions costing over $10.00 ! You just watch and see if I am correct. Lee, w0vt ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] [DrakeRadio] Re-capping an R-4
At one point several years ago I checked the patent for deoxit and I remember it being a PO/EO copolymer of some type. Oleic acid is a weakly acidic long-chain carboxylic acid, and as for the naphtha, I have never smelled any deoxit that smells like a hydrocarbon solvent. Having said that, I probably need to check again !!! 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, October 9, 2011 12:04:03 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] [DrakeRadio] Re-capping an R-4 On Sat, 08 Oct 2011 18:58:33 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote: I'm sure it has a recommended shelf life, but the bottle I just finished off (about 1/4 in the bottom) is at least 15 years old and still seems to clean just fine. I always keep it capped. Actually the only problem I had with it was that the bottle became 'deformed', i.e., pushed in on one side, so I couldn't get much pressure on it! I've got a bottle that's about that old, with the same deformity. I still use it, and it seems to work, although it has pretty much lost most of it's red coloring. As mentioned before, you can also make your own: http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg12938.html 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Frequency crystals
I think I have a TR-3 or two that has that brand of crystals in the pre-mix section. They looked stock to me. Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, September 18, 2011 2:59:56 PM Subject: [Drakelist] Frequency crystals I saw some crystals made by Hunt. Anyone heard of them? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Does Anyone Remember the 1970's AES Ad with Ray Grenier?
He's on QRZ From: whitebear1...@comcast.net whitebear1...@comcast.net To: Terry Maurice ve3...@execulink.com Cc: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, August 5, 2011 8:22:25 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Does Anyone Remember the 1970's AES Ad with Ray Grenier? Wow what a find! That is definitely Ray Grenier! I haven't seen that picture in 40 years wow! I dunno if it's late 60's or not. i'm thinking 60's. Thanks for digging up the photo Terry. I seem to recall the Drake photo I'm thinking of might have been a slightly older Ray, minus the black frame glasses, and a clearly 4C station in view.73, Scott WA9WFA From: Terry Maurice ve3...@execulink.com Cc: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Friday, August 5, 2011 8:59:11 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Does Anyone Remember the 1970's AES Ad with RayGrenier? The man and the equipment. http://www.marcradio.org/rm-1971-03/vanguard-labs.html Terry VE3XTM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake 2-C Alignment Questions
Hope there are some 2-C experts out there who can give me some alignment advice: First Question: For step A on page 18 of the manual, to center the 50 KHz BFO, my generator doesn't go down that low, so I set it to 100 KHz and cap-coupled to pin 1, V5 and got a audio note, presumably from the 2nd harmonic of the BFO. Adjusting T-11 zero beat the note. Seems like this is pretty similar to using the 100 kHz crystal calibrator procedure at the end of the first paragraph. I just need to see if I did it right. Second Question: On step D (VFO alignment), they mention sliding the dial. I think they are talking about simply sliding the the vertical hair-line, but is there any way to adjust the main frequency dial independent of the VFO to get it right on the money (with the hair line centered)? Maybe this would be over-killI am only one division off the same direction on 3.6 and 4.0 MHz. Thanks very much. I have a cople of 2-C's on the operating table, I have stripped this one, it is back together, and working. Just need to touch up the alignment, and paint the cabinet. BTW, the three crystal oscillators were all perfectly on the money. 73, Mark N5KAE ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C Bias Adjustment
I have had two separate issues with this switch. Deoxit and working back and forth a few times solved it. 73 Mark N5KAE___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what would your first station be?
25 years ago my first rig was a used Drake TR-7 from Burghardt Amateur Center, and I still have it. Antenna was a G5RV and a BW 300 watt tuner from Madison (downtown Houston at the time). Worked the world with it. About 12 years ago I started restoring tube gear, and most of you know what that means...Many fine-working radios saved from the scrap heap, and no more room at the QTH for any more (not to mention a VERY patient XYL) !!! 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: John Hudson john.hud...@calema.ca.gov To: Darrell Bellerive drbellerive.va...@gmail.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, June 17, 2011 2:47:40 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what would your first station be? My first HAM rig was borrowed from a mentor (Tom Roberts WA6YKE/AC5RD)who was helping me get my HAM license it was a Knight T-60 transmitter and HRO-60 receiver. I was 13 at the time, then my dad and I found an HW-16 working, bought a HG-10B VFO which became the first station I owned. At 16 my Dad bought me a Yaesu FT-101B which I still have. As I said in an earlier post, in high school I was given the opportunity to purchase a HAM station for Helix High School here in La Mesa, CA. the station was a Drake TR-4C, RV-4C, MS-4, and W-4 watt meter (I'd sure like to know where that rig went). I'm not sure I'd change anything we did, perhaps instead of the Yaesu I would have asked for the Drake Twins but the old FT-101B has stood the test of time.. Then again Darrell wouldn't we all like to have known then what we know now; Dad lets buy stock in this new company called Microsoft ;-) De WA6HYQ -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Bellerive Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 12:08 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what would your first station be? The threads about the comparisons of the Drake, Collins, etc. has got me thinking about my first receiver and station. Licenced at the age of 15 back in 1975, I bought used gear from the local club members, not giving any thought as to what was great, good, or bad in terms of design or performance. It was available and so that's what I got. If I knew then, what I know now, my first receiver and station would have been totally different. If I could have afforded it a new Drake R-4B or if money was not available, a used Drake 2B would have been my first receiver rather than the Hallicrafters SX-140. So if you knew then what you know now, what would have been your first station and what year would it have been? 73, Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Station VA7TO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] RCS-4 External Antenna Switch
Hello everyone, I just acquired an RCS-4 antenna switch that works. Does anyone have any advice on whether I need to lube the drive motor, and if so, what to use, and how to do it? Any other advice on other items I should be concerned about? Thanks and 73 Mark N5KAE ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat
My Weller D-550 (240/325 Watt) was easy to find new tips for. It's a powerful gun that does big jobs well, especially PL-259's. I keep it tinned up, and this tip has lasted for about 5 years. Mark N5KAE From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, March 28, 2011 4:29:44 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat That's the problem I've always had with the design of the Weller gun, the contacts for the tips get corroded. I used to have a Wen 100/200 watt pencil gun that had a different design and never had to reestablish the contacts. And it could be used for more precision work. Used it till it broke and I couldn't find replacements anymore. Really miss that gun. Loren - WA3WZR On 3/28/2011 9:30 AM, gypsym...@aol.com wrote: Weller 100/140 gun Insufficient heat. I have found that about once a year I have to back off on the nuts that hold the soldering tip in place and re snug them down. Probably gets oxidized ? In any case and this may be in particular to my guns ( I have two of those ) If I can't hear the buzz I know its not going to get hot enough. The same thing applied to my larger Weller 200/260 73's Carl wd8nhk ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1498/3535 - Release Date: 03/28/11 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit
I bought both kits, one for the AC4 and HP-23. Sure, there were a couple of things that I saw as ambiguous, but after careful inspection of the power supply, and it's schematic, I saw that it was my problem, not the instructions. No matter what, I traced everything anyway, making sure all the connections made sense. Both supplies worked perfectly. These kits are the best thing that ever happened to power supplies! 73 Mark N5KAE From: John Boyle jmbo...@ripnet.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, February 25, 2011 10:39:26 AM Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit I bought the AC-4R kit from Mike several montha ago and found the kit very easy to assemble. I think he has the right to assume that one can read a schematic and has had some experience in working with electronics. I made it a opoint to carefully trace all of the leads and compare my wiring with the schematic. The result was that it passed the smoke test with flying colors and the voltages were as advertized. Mike has done a great job that has benefitted many Drake owners. John, VE3PMA___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Yes, to all Drake folks, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! You're a bunch of great people. I am taking some of my time off to organize my tube caddies, and Drake parts to get ready for 2011. 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: Chuck Grandgent ch...@chuckg.com To: K9sqg k9...@aol.com Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, December 22, 2010 6:52:42 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Merry Christmas Evan and everyone else ! Still having fun with the Drakes, both using them and working on them. Couple years ago I got an R4B and stuck the R4A on the shelf, but for a Saturday project tried to fire up the R4A but ran into some problems, but it's a fun project figuring out what happened and no hurry on the project. A very prosperous and healthy 2011 to everyone here ! Chuck, K1OM, Alachua FL On Wed, Dec 22, 2010 at 7:46 PM, K9sqg k9...@aol.com wrote: To all the Drake enthusiasts I'd like to wish you all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. May you be blessed with health and happiness this season and always. May the help, information, and assistance for Drake gear continue into 2011. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R
I echo your good comments. The rebuild is an excellent creation. 73 Mark N5KAE From: ph...@aol.com ph...@aol.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, November 20, 2010 3:58:03 PM Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R Just a word to anyone interested that the AC-4R power supply rebuild kit is everything it's cracked up to be. I found the instructions generally easy to follow - there were a couple of brief moments of minor confusion - and the supply works splendiferously. I even used the upgrade installation as a chance to add a 3-wire power cord (yeah, yeah, I know, it ain't factory but it's still a good idea). Mr. T-4X is very happy. 73, Paul, K4MSG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake 2-NT tank coil or parts rig
Would anyone have an extra 2-NT final tank available, or a junker parts rig with an intact tank? I have one that after it shipped to me a couple years ago, had been cranked in shipping so bad the coil base ceramic fractured. It will probably still work, but am just checking. 73 to all Mark N5KAE ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Proper Use of DeOxit
I like to use the DeOxit Pen for tube pins, pilot lamps, cinch connector pins, etc. For relay contacts, I saturate small strips of card stock with deoxit spray, then run them through (do the same for phone jacks and others that have a break/make contact in there. I use the concentrate in the nail polish bottle format for contacts that are easy to get at. I use the spray for hard-to-get-at switch wafers, but sparingly where needed (I probably shouldn't be doing that, but have not had any problems for past 10 years or so. 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: Don Cunningham wb5...@martineer.net To: Walker g...@att.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, October 16, 2010 6:25:03 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Proper Use of DeOxit Well, Walker, since I don't see anyone jumping in here to answer you, let me take a stab at it. First, DeOxit should be used sparingly, like a drop at a time, and NEVER sprayed on a bandswitch, or like switch with phenolic wafers. I use a toothpick (or insulin syringe if I can find them) to put a drop right where I want it on the contact, then work the switch several times to work it in. I put a drop in each hole of a tube socket and work the tube gently to get it distributed. I would advise being careful of using it around front panels, plastic pieces etc without testing a small area. I don't think it is caustic or harmful, but these cosmetic parts are not easily found if damaged. I don't see too much lubricant, if any, in DeOxit, so don't think it is good long term for use in potentiometers. Caig has other products for that (like Faderlube or something like that). Maybe that will give you a start, then others can chime in with better details, hi. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR7 dead receive
I had an audio problem about a year agowith my TR-7, where the audio would just fade out. My first thought was the audio amp chip went out, but I went ahead and pulled all the boards, deoxit each pin, and reinstalled the boards. also, I deoxited all of the plugs, etc. to the digital readout board, etc. This solved everything, including an intermittent digital display problem I had for years. 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: Drakedude draked...@comcast.net To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 1:27:30 AM Subject: [Drakelist] TR7 dead receive Took my TR7 that was in temp controlled storage for about one year and found I have no receive. Radio worked 100% when put away in closet. TX works fine,all modes,full output. I get meter deflection when I rotate RF gain control . I have very weak audio of TX signals,no meter deflection when a strong signal ( compared to another recvr same antenna) Filter selection works,as you cab hear bandwidth narrow with narrow filter. PBT works good also. I removed relay cleaned contacts to no avail. All voltages at 10 volts or slightly lower on reg. board. Any thoughts? Tnx in advance Paul AD3G ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Dead Receive revisited
Yes, I have never found that Deoxit cures those kind of problems on my Drakes either. 73, Mark, N5KAE - Original Message From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 12:10:43 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Dead Receive revisited On Sun, 10 Oct 2010 11:56:29 -0400, Drakedude wrote: I had completely forgot about removing the jumper,and when it didn't receive,I went into repair mode and overlooked the obvious! Ah, a plug it in, dumba$$ moment. I seem to have those fairly often myself. :) Glad you got it working! 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://radiojim.exofire.net http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] K4OAH CD's
I agree Bill. The facts are the facts! The new CD's on the 2C and 2-NT are also excellent. The time and effort taken to compile this information is awesome, and serves to keep our Drake equipment running. Of course, I take advantage of Garey's kind advice too. 73 Mark N5KAE From: Bill Scott bill.n...@gmail.com To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thu, September 30, 2010 3:39:02 PM Subject: [Drakelist] K4OAH CD's I don't want to sound like a broken record, but if you don't own one of Garey's CD's for your Drakes your really missing the boat. I am not a tech, but do like to keep my Drakes running myself without the need to send them out to someone else. In the past two months my TR4C has had two problems both of which I fixed myself with Garey's advice and being able to refer to his CD giving detailed HI-RES pictures of the components of the Drakes. Everything is labeled and easy to find. I was able to identify the component I needed to check and make the necessary repairs. I owned the CD for my Drake twins, which I sold and one for my TR4C. I just wish he would produce one for my Collins KWM-2A. The older radios are upwards of 60 years old and things are going to go bad, its fun and very rewarding to be able to fix things yourself even if you are not a qualified tech. Bill, nm4k___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R Rebuild Success
I agree with all good things said about Mike's Upgrades. I used his kits on an AC4 and HP- 23. Work great! 73 Mark N5KAE On Sat Jul 10th, 2010 12:31 PM CDT Tom Delano wrote: Hi Dino, Congrats on the AC-4R project. Call me paranoid, but this rebuild is the first thing I do when I get a new AC-4. I also upgrade the old two-wire power cord with a three-wire grounded cord for a little more peace of mind. I did the L-4PS upgrade several months ago using Mike Bryce's L-4B/L-7 upgrade kit and I have been very pleased with the results from this rebuild kit. In fact, I am in the middle of doing the Harbach step-start upgrade on the L-4B right now. You will be able to see the results at http://www.w1cc.net once I have finished the module installation. Check under the Projects menu to see the photos. 73, Tom, W1CC On 7/10/10 1:14 PM, Dino Papas k...@cox.net wrote: After sitting in my project queue for a couple of years I finally got around to rebuilding my original 1969 vintage AC-4 using Mike Bryce's kit. I had stuffed the PCB a year or so ago but as the C-line was working ok there was no hurry. Only problem with the install were the PCB standoffs provided to install on the transformer bolts. Two of the aluminum standoffs wouldn't catch at all and the other two were not a positive lock. Luckily I had a collection of standoffs I got from DigiKey long ago and had some that were exactly the same lengthbut they were tapped for a smaller bolt than those on the transformer. But a little effort with my tap and die set had them installed in a jiffy. Fired the supply up on the bench and the HV/MV and bias readings were spot on. Back into place with the C-line, reset the bias according to the manual and powered uppower out was A-ok. BTW, I did check the old caps with my ESR meter and they tested ok'course the question is how many more years would they have done so? ;-) I did build myself up a fancy capacitor dishcharge stick to make sure the old caps were really dead before working on the supply (my younger days would have found me using a clip lead and a screwdriver but I've come along way!). Anyway, for those of you who haven't done the rebuild yet you may want to consider itit's easy to do and hopefully will provide another 30 years of service! Thanks to Mike for making the rebuild kits availablenext project is my 1979 vintage L-4B supply where I'll use the Harbach rebuild PCB kit and soft-start module (they've been sitting in the project queue for a while as well). 73 - Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Practical?
I agree with previous posts about the TR-7. I got mine used when I became a ham 24 years ago. It started developing an audio problem, and digial readout problem, but removing the boards, deoxit on the pins, and reseating solved everything. A touch-up on the alignment and it's a brand new radio. The wb4hfn extender boards are a good buy also. 73 Mark N5KAE From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com To: Curt rhule...@comcast.net; Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF ni...@ngunn.net Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, June 23, 2010 4:32:47 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Practical? Curt, re: service manual. The best is to get an original, but good copies are fine. There is also a reasonable PDF version available free from http://www.ea1ddo.es/drake.html. Be sure to send him a thank you note if you download, as he has done a service by having it available free of charge. I consider this copy totally acceptable, especially for free. I will say that the electronic copies are quite usable, but one you can lay on the table is so much easier when you are looking at things (maybe I'm old fashioned). Only time I have really needed mine was when I put the 10 turn pot upgrade on my voltage board inside the TR7. Also if you plan to work on the rig (or have someone work on it for you), the extender boards are a must. Have a look at www.wb4hfn.com for a resource paper with data on all the Drake lines and misc good ideas. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Wed, 6/23/10, Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF ni...@ngunn.net wrote: From: Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF ni...@ngunn.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Practical? To: Curt rhule...@comcast.net Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Wednesday, June 23, 2010, 1:42 PM Most of my problems have been intermittent faults due to dirty connectors. I had to change an LED display with gone out segments, they are available. I somehow killed a PA transistor. The transistors used in the Yaesu FT1000 series transistors are a direct replacement and available from Yaesu. I now have an intermittent s-meter due to noisy preset pots which are available from many suppliers. Mine was bought in Britain probably 15 years ago so no idea of current value. If you get one, make sure you get the service manual for it. On 23-Jun-10 17:09, Curt wrote: I really enjoy my old hollow-state Drake equipment, and a friend's purchase of a TR-7 has me interested in perhaps owning one. Am a little reluctant because while my 2B and 4-line equipment are readily repaired should the need arise, imagine the TR-7/7A maybe contains lot of components made from unobtainium. What are the experiences of owners on this list regarding keeping a TR-7 operational. And, what is appropriate price range for one in good operational condition? 73, Curt KB5JO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2956 - Release Date: 06/22/10 18:36:00 -- Nigel A. Gunn, 1865 El Camino Drive, Xenia, OH 45385-1115, USA. tel +1 937 825 5032 Amateur Radio G8IFF W8IFF (was KC8NHF), e-mail ni...@ngunn.net www http://www.ngunn.net Member of ARRL, GQRP #11396, QRPARCI #11644, SOC #548, Flying Pigs QRP Club International #385, Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA LM-1691, AMSAT-UK 0182, MKARS, ALC, GCARES, XWARN. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
Bob, I would first turn everything off, unhook the TR-3 from the power supply, and look at the frame T/R relay and make sure the contacts are clean. Once they are clean, I always do some continuity measurements on the XMIT and RCV cathode lines to make sure they really are making good contact. If this is a no-go, make sure the relay tube is actually energizing the relay coil. Beyond that, if the 9 MHz BFO is not being shifted into the SSB filter passband (upper sideband filter I think), then there will be no drive at all. Are you able to receive upper and lower sideband QSO's okay? Others will probably have more and better advice... 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: AD5VJ Bob rt...@sbcglobal.net To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 6:23:34 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-3 I have a TR-3 and it is working fb on rx, except when going to the procedures for tuning while using a dummy load as the antenna, on page 17 of the manual after presetting the controls as indicated, when I get down to the: 'advance the XMTR gain control clockwise until the plate amperes meter moves up scale slightly from idling current' It does not move up scale and I have no output when the function switch is set to X-CW per two different watt meters I have put inline with the dummy load. All the tubes light up and seem to be functioning properly. Any ideas? Bob AD5VJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
Bob, Looks like you are getting pull-in on the relay, and that's good. Removing the relay would be pretty difficult, and I have never done it. Yes, there are three sets of contacts: a single-pole single throw, and two single-pole double throw. Firstpower off, power supply unplugged from the wall, then from the radio. To clean, one would need to remove the high-voltage cage. I use a very light carborundum paper, and just one pass over the contacts, with some deoxit on there too. Then, I use just paper. The best dimensions of the strip is about 3 inches by 1/8 inch. To get the normally-open contact surfaces, I gently actuate the relay by hand by pressing down very lightly, so that the paper is caught between the contacts, then I drag it out slowly. If you don't have carborundum paper, just use the regular paper. I've cleaned a number of these TR-3 frame relays like this, and it works pretty well. Just be very careful about bending any of the contact arms !!! Let's keep the dialog going, Mark - Original Message From: AD5VJ Bob rt...@sbcglobal.net To: Mark Nace n5...@swbell.net; Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 7:17:11 PM Subject: RE: [Drakelist] TR-3 Hi Mark Yes I can rx both usb and LSB with no problem. The rig is supposed to switch to the sideband appropriate for the band which it does on all bands except for 40 meters. On 40 it goes into usb not LSB for some reason and I have to switch it to X in order to get the LSB signals off of 40 meters. Does the relay only have the upper contacts. I can see them moving from the top after taking the top off, or do I have to take the relay out in order to clean any at the bottom of the relay. Bob AD5VJ -Original Message- From: Mark Nace [mailto:n5...@swbell.net] Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:44 PM To: AD5VJ Bob; Drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3 Bob, I would first turn everything off, unhook the TR-3 from the power supply, and look at the frame T/R relay and make sure the contacts are clean. Once they are clean, I always do some continuity measurements on the XMIT and RCV cathode lines to make sure they really are making good contact. If this is a no-go, make sure the relay tube is actually energizing the relay coil. Beyond that, if the 9 MHz BFO is not being shifted into the SSB filter passband (upper sideband filter I think), then there will be no drive at all. Are you able to receive upper and lower sideband QSO's okay? Others will probably have more and better advice... 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: AD5VJ Bob To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 6:23:34 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-3 I have a TR-3 and it is working fb on rx, except when going to the procedures for tuning while using a dummy load as the antenna, on page 17 of the manual after presetting the controls as indicated, when I get down to the: 'advance the XMTR gain control clockwise until the plate amperes meter moves up scale slightly from idling current' It does not move up scale and I have no output when the function switch is set to X-CW per two different watt meters I have put inline with the dummy load. All the tubes light up and seem to be functioning properly. Any ideas? Bob AD5VJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
I think a lotta people just removed and by-passed the signal overload bulb because of poor contact. I have one on the slab right now, and it has no bulb. Also, about 99% of everything I know about Drake Transceivers I got from Garey and others on this reflector over the years !!! They are great teachers. mark - Original Message From: AD5VJ Bob rt...@sbcglobal.net To: k4...@mindspring.com; Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 9:17:41 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3 Hi Garey The bulb you are showing is not there. Could that be a problem? Bob AD5VJ -Original Message- From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 9:14 PM To: AD5VJ Bob; Drakelist Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3 Bob - Attached is the page from my CD with the relay contacts identified. Should help you find what you need to check. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs AD5VJ Bob wrote: Hi Mark Yes I can rx both usb and LSB with no problem. The rig is supposed to switch to the sideband appropriate for the band which it does on all bands except for 40 meters. On 40 it goes into usb not LSB for some reason and I have to switch it to X in order to get the LSB signals off of 40 meters. Does the relay only have the upper contacts. I can see them moving from the top after taking the top off, or do I have to take the relay out in order to clean any at the bottom of the relay. Bob AD5VJ -Original Message- From: Mark Nace [mailto:n5...@swbell.net] Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:44 PM To: AD5VJ Bob; Drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3 Bob, I would first turn everything off, unhook the TR-3 from the power supply, and look at the frame T/R relay and make sure the contacts are clean. Once they are clean, I always do some continuity measurements on the XMIT and RCV cathode lines to make sure they really are making good contact. If this is a no-go, make sure the relay tube is actually energizing the relay coil. Beyond that, if the 9 MHz BFO is not being shifted into the SSB filter passband (upper sideband filter I think), then there will be no drive at all. Are you able to receive upper and lower sideband QSO's okay? Others will probably have more and better advice... 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: AD5VJ Bob To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 6:23:34 PM Subject: [Drakelist] TR-3 I have a TR-3 and it is working fb on rx, except when going to the procedures for tuning while using a dummy load as the antenna, on page 17 of the manual after presetting the controls as indicated, when I get down to the: 'advance the XMTR gain control clockwise until the plate amperes meter moves up scale slightly from idling current' It does not move up scale and I have no output when the function switch is set to X-CW per two different watt meters I have put inline with the dummy load. All the tubes light up and seem to be functioning properly. Any ideas? Bob AD5VJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Observations on chassis discoloration and corrosion
Ron, Great comments. I keep my drake rigs covered as well. All that work getting the chasses cleaned up, i SURE don't want to do it again!!. 73 Happy New Year Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, December 26, 2009 7:59:12 AM Subject: [Drakelist] Observations on chassis discoloration and corrosion I have had a few Drakes through my shack over the years and have noticed something I would like to bring to the collecting community that I have not seen discussed before. The Drakes that I have had with really good and or pristine chassis, were typically from (when I could follow it back) owners who used radio covers on their rigs. There has also been generally, a direct correlation to the amount of dust seen on the chassis and the amount of discoloration and corrosion. Also, the bottoms of chassis tend to be much better condition than the tops. So here are my thoughts. Keep the dust off the chassis as it can and does hold moisture. Moisture in turn is a catalyst for corrosion (discoloration being simple oxidation, is a very mild form of corrosion). I sold my TR3 a few years back. It was one of the best TR3 chassis I have ever seen. Not just because it was mine, hi :-) The first owner had it covered when not in use. I too followed his actions. Don't take this the wrong way, storage in a damp basement under a radio cover is NOT good. OTOH keeping a rig in a reasonable environment with a radio cover when not in use is cheap insurance. I keep all my rigs covered when not in use. Not anything fancy, just some material stitched up to form a box cover. Thoughts, comments? 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] CW Key Connector
Bob, CW jack is a normal 1/4 inch phono, as is the speaker jack. Many times, you will fine a transceiver that has 1/4 inch replacing the narrower mic jack, but I always change them back. I think you need the grid block keying protocol. Others will have better comments. How is your TR-3 doing? I have restored several. Let's keep the dialog going... 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: AD5VJ Bob rt...@sbcglobal.net To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thu, December 10, 2009 7:35:43 PM Subject: [Drakelist] CW Key Connector I was able to come up with an orignal .210 inch connector for the mic plug on my TR-3. I am looking in the manual and it doesn't say if the same (Switchcraft S-230) .210 inch diameter type of connector is used for the cw key or not. Does anyone know if they are both the same type of connector? Also, I may end up using an automatic keyer that I built out of a kit with it, but have not seen anything in the manual on my kit concerning 'grid block keying'. Is there a special kind of keyer I have to use with this rig? Bob AD5VJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 filters
I agree Jim. My TR-7 was over 25 years old, and I pulled the boards, deoxited the pins (and all other connectors), band switch, and all my audio, digital readout, and low receive problems just went away. 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com To: drakel...@.zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, December 7, 2009 12:44:31 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 filters On Mon, 7 Dec 2009 10:28:59 -0800, Robert Spiva wrote: I have been using a TR-7 line for about two months that sat on a shelf for quite a number of years. It had been working wonderfully, but this weekend everything went quiet. To get any receive signal through I have to have the pass band engaged. When the other two A+B=C filter are engaged I get a very weak signal coming though. This is the case in all modes AM, RTTY, CW, LSB USB. Anyone have any ideas what's wrong? First idea, dirty/oxidized pins in the Molex connectors between the plugin boards and the parent board. This is probably the most common ailment with aging 7-line radios. The cure can be as simple as pulling all the boards and reseating them, but a good cleaning and sparing application of DeOxit doesn't hurt. When working with the aluminim card cage covers, DON'T overtighten the screws. They can strip easily. They need to be snug, but not lug-nut tight. Also check the various grounding tabs and fingers while you are in there. 73 -Jim -- It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth! - G'Kar, Babylon 5 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] TR-7 and RV-7 Analog VFO Readouts
Hi, I just got an RV-7 remote VFO for my TR-7 (has the DR-7). It works well, but the 100kHz rear dial on the RV-7 is a bit off from where it is supposed to be. The front dial is okay, and is about right on. Is there an easy way to reposition the rear dial on the VFO without screwing something up? I'd kinda like to know where I am without having to put the TR-7 into transmit. Thanks very much to the group, Mark N5KAE ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Several Questions for Drakers
I have saved up a few mundane questions for the Drake folks. Instead of separate emails, I will just ask them all in one: 1. The early AC-3 power supply had some sort of choke filter for the +650 volt section, right after a bridge rectifier looks like. My buddy has one of these actually. can someone explain it briefly, and tell why it was changed out (cost perhaps)? 2. In the TR-3, does anyone know why it was designed to require going back and forth from SSB to Xcw to transmit and receive CW? I got out one of my TR-3's and re-discovered this, and after looking at the manual, found it was true. Pretty inconvenient, and probably pretty hard on the switch over time. 3. When putting new diodes in an AC-3 or AC-4, is it recommended to add speed-up caps and equalizing resistors across the diodes? 4. When working across a band on TR-3's or TR-4's, I usually just peak the Rf tune, but wonder how far one should go before re-dipping again in the same band. Thanks for listening, and thanks for all the good advice over the years. 73 Mark N5KAE (a fellow Drake Transceiver hobbyist) ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] SS and the TR7
John, I agree. I worked SS CW yesterday with a TR-4, then switched to my TR-7 today with the 500 Hz filter. The TR-4 was a challenge of course, but it was fun to just pick out a station, and work him just based on the audio tone, amongst all of the other signals in the passband!! I agree with your comments about the TR-7. I have had mine for 23 years (bought it second hand), and with some normal TLC, it still works like it did then. Not sure I worked you, but hope you scored well. 73 Mark N5KAE - Original Message From: john joh...@nc.rr.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, November 8, 2009 4:12:46 PM Subject: [Drakelist] SS and the TR7 Ran the TR7 on 20 and 40 during Sweepstakes today. It's been a while since I've had it on the air, and it really was a pleasure to operate . The only thing I miss with it is the ability to log the frequency directly to the computer. The rig is full of filters and 40CW during SS is a great test. Sure were some good fists out there this weekend John K5MO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 Noise Blanker question
Ron, All, I asked Bill Frost about the 9-NB in a TR-4 of mine a number of years ago. My question, and his response (below) should be interesting to you. My 34-NB manual for the kit does not have a photo of the board, just a couple of general drawings with trimmers, etc. identified for alignment purposes. 73, Mark, N5KAE Dear Bill, I have a TR4 with a 9-NB noise blanker in it. The manual has the schematic for the unit, but I can't find anywhere on the main TR4 schematic, or the 9-NB schematic as to exact locations where the blanker wires patch into the rest of the radio. Also, the 9-NB section mentions a separate impedance-matching board under the chassis that the band switch goes through. My TR4 has no such board. I have asked both of the Drake reflectors, but have had no takers on this one. Also, is there any way to remove this blanker, and just use the TR4 as-is? I have a TR4C with the 34PNB, and that blanker board looks very different, and seems to just plug into a socket. Looks like an up-grade design compared to the 9-NB ! Any help would be appreciated! 73, and have a great day! Dear Mark, Thanks for the e-mail. The first noise blanker was the 9-NB, it was designed for the transceivers which used the 9 MHz IF, thus the 9-NB (9 MHz Noise Blanker). However, the 9-NB was the noise blanker used in the TR-6 transceiver. The initial noise blanker for the TR-3 and TR-4 was supplied in a kit form, as the 34-NB. However the board layout, pictures, etc. used in the first 34-NB instruction manuals were those of the 9-NB noise blanker. Thus the confusion, the noise blanker is a 34-NB although the manual refers to it as the 9-NB in places. The kit was soon discontinued, as the TR-3 or TR-4 had to be aligned properly or the noise blanker would not blank properly. The later 34-NB noise blanker was re-designed to eliminate the NBK PC board. The noise blanker, as in your TR-4, should operate properly provided the voltages are present, the circuits are operating, etc. The noise blanker was reworked again, with the introduction of the TR-4C, and renamed the 34-PNB. The 34-PNB was a Plug-in Noise Blanker. Making it an easy accessory to install at any time.. There were a couple versions of the 34-PNB as it progressed. We have a few of the 34-NB instruction manuals in stock, if interested. The instruction manual is our part number 385-0045 and the price is $15.00 plus the shipping and handling charges. - Original Message From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net; RadiosRUs radiogu...@hotmail.com Sent: Wednesday, October 7, 2009 7:07:46 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 Noise Blanker question Pete, I gave Garey a copy of the 34NB kit that Drake sold for wired install to the TR3 and early TR4s. I have the electronic copy somewhere, and I think Garey has it on his CDs, but am not sure. I seem to remember that it had a picture of the PC board, so it might be fairly easy to fabricate. About the only hard part would be any toroids. Seems like it has 2 or 3 of them. I could guess resonate at the IF freq, but not really sure. If you are serious, I will try to look up the electronic doc and get it to you. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Tue, 10/6/09, RadiosRUs wrote: From: RadiosRUs Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4 Noise Blanker question To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2009, 9:38 PM This may have been covered before; but ... has anyone ever hand built a noise blanker using the Drake schematic and installed it in a TR-4? Pete N6QW -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] 12BZ6 and Drake 2-C
Hello Drake experts, I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with subs for the 12BZ6 for a 2-C I have. NOS are pretty pricey. Just a thought 73 Mark N5KAE ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Fw: Which tubes are the right tubes
- Forwarded Message From: Mark Nace n5...@swbell.net To: Walker g...@worldnet.att.net Cc: mark nace n5...@swbell.net Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2009 10:37:15 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Which tubes are the right tubes Phil, You are feeling the same pain as I have over the years on the TR-4 documentation. I have two original manuals with the associated schematics. I can help a little, so here goes: 1. The early Drake TR-4's were sort of transitional from the TR-3. TR-3's used to have 12BA6's for both X-mit IF amp (V15) and Receive (V11 and V12) IF amps . 2. In the TR-4's, they started going to 6BZ6's in the first receive IF amp (V11), but kept 12BA6 as the second receive IF (V12). In both schematic versions I have, the 1st received IF V11 was just whited out by Drake, and a 6 is penciled in. Same with the Z. so, 12BA6 went to 6BZ6. 3. Also in the TR-3's, the crystal calibrator (V5) used to be a 12BA6. In the TR-4's, they switched to the 6BZ6 in the voltage and resistor charts, BUT, the schematic for serial numbers 30,500 and later show a 6BA6 as the crystal calibrator, whereas schematic for serial numbers 28,500 and later showed a 6BZ6 as V5. 4. You may have an old version of the manual, and a newer version of the schematic. The reason I think so, is that the 12BZ6 was used as the 1st rec. IF (V11) in very early TR-4's. Even in these later manuals, if you look at the pictures, the use serial number 16050, which was probably the first TR-4 prototype they started selling. Moreover, if you look closely at the top-chassis picture, you can just BARELY see that V11 was labeled as 12BZ6. I think they changed it out over the course of production. Also, they show 12BA6 in this picture as the crystal cal. tube. So, the pictures are misleading for later models, even though the voltage and resistance charts, as well as schematics were updated. That's why the charts in your manual are why they list 12BA6 and 12BZ6 as V5 and V11 respectively. 5. V4 in theTR-3 used to be a 6HS6 (transmit mixer), but later they switched to the 6EJ7 as the mixer, and it also shows up in the top-chassis picture as 6EJ7 ! 6. Even in the latest version of the manual I have, 6HS6 is still listed in the block diagram, but the charts show the 6EJ7. Guess they forgot to change that in the block diagram. Yes, there WERE changeovers, as you say, and some glaring inconsistencies through the years. I would trust the chassis lettering, and try to get a later version of the manual. Hope this is as clear as mud,and good luck. We can keep the dialog going for sure. 73, Mark N5KAE From: Walker g...@worldnet.att.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2009 7:47:46 AM Subject: [Drakelist] Which tubes are the right tubes I have a TR-4, 1968 manufacture date, serial number 28124. It has worked well for years, with the last few being dormant as my vertical took a hit a few winters ago with icing. I've replaced the vertical, and I'm trying to re-tube the unit. Here is where the confusion arises: The chassis lettering and schematic for tubes V4, V5, V11 and both agree and are respectively: 6EJ7, 6BA6, 6BZ6. Note: the schematic has V5 and V11 with a hand lettered 6 in front of 6BA6 and 6BZ6 versus all other tubes which have stencil guided lettering. The Manual's Voltage Reference chart and Tube List for V4, V5 and V11 are: 6EJ7, 12BA6, 12BZ6 The Manual's Block Diagram shows V4 as 6HS6 I'm not sure what's supposed to be right, though I have a tendency to believe the chassis lettering and schematic. The manual is internally inconsistent, and doesn't agree with the physical hardware or schematic. I probably can take out V5 and V11 and measure the filament voltage present to see if it really is set up for a 6 or 12 volt tube in those sockets. I found some correspondence between the original owner, whom I purchased the unit from, and the factory regarding a technical problem. The factory rep wasn't sure in solving a problem whether the former owner needed a 6BZ6 or a 12BZ6 so he sent him one of each. Apparently the factory didn't know either! Was there some changeover for different serial number ranges, between various tube types or what, and what is the best way to tell which tubes really belong in the circuits? Thanks for pointing me toward a resource, if you know one, to help get some answers. Phil WA2CLX ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [drakelist] TR-4 band switch problem
Mark Nace [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Matt, I have a TR-3 that I bought as a junker, and R40, 470 ohm, had vaporized. Replaced it, and as I kind of expected, it also started smoking upon turning the band switch also. It was a very perplexing problem, and after some resistance measurements and quick voltage measurements turning the unit on and off very quickly, I found that the 250 volt line was being placed across R40 due to a double-make on the switch wafer due to the shaft being wallowed out and not registering correctly. I positioned the wafer correctly, and carefully added some fast-setting polyester cement on each side, right on the shaft and up onto the wafer a little. It cured the problem, and the TR-3 works perfectly now. Of course, the best fix would be to replace the wafer, but I only paid about 80 bucks for the radio, and this was a good fix at the time. Not sure about the lights, but make sure the bulbs are installed correctly, and not making contact with the metal shrouds that guide the light. Anywayhope this helps. Let us know how it goes. 73, Mark N5KAE - Original Message - From: Matthew E. McNeely [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 2:56 PM Subject: [drakelist] TR-4 band switch problem Matthew E. McNeely [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I have a wonderful early TR-4 that works well except that sometimes when I change bands with the band switch I hear a snap sizzle sound and resistor R40 a 470 ohm resistor burns up. I replace the resistor and the TR-4 works fine except that the upper and lower usb lights are both on in the upper ssb position for any band. if I let the TR-4 sit for while without being used after the initial repair the ssb indicator lights work as they should. So my question for those more knowledgeable than are out there is what may be going on? I don't see why R40 is blowing up? and what that has to do with the usb lsb lights and why when the unit sits over night after the repair things work correctly. Oh by the way the ssb works just fine it seems like just the lights or the light switching is what is fouled up. Thanks in advance for any help. Matt K1MCN -- On Behalf of Matthew E. McNeely [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- On Behalf of Mark Nace [EMAIL PROTECTED] Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: Followup... Re: [drakelist] tectured paint experiment that worked!
Try to stay away frommethylene chloride,and especially carbon tet. or chloroform. 73, de Mark, N5KAE - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2004 7:37 PM Subject: Re: Followup... Re: [drakelist] tectured paint experiment that worked! Methyl Ethyl Ketone aka MEK is really bad stuff. Use it outside only and don't inhale the fumes.73,John, W4AWM
[drakelist] Drake TR-M
Isthe Drake TR-M useful at all for amateur use? I have never owned one until now. Being channelized, it seems like it is probably limited in use. Has anyone used one on the ham bands? Thanks for your advice and input 73, Mark N5KAE
[drakelist] TR-3 and the 2003 ARRL Frequency Measurement Test
Just for the fun of it, I used a restored TR-3 to enter the 2003 ARRL frequency measurement test. The results were as follows: Measured Freq. (Hz) Error (Hz) Error (ppm) 3,585,250+133.70 37.29 7,050,250 +159.90 22.68 14,050,750-674.30 -47.99 I didn't measure the 15 meter signal. These number were definitely not winners, but I was impressed with the TR-3's performance. Iused the crystal calibrator, the dial, and skirt markings (best estimation between skirt markings). The calibrator was previously calibrated with WWV about 1 year earlier when the final alignment was done. Did anyone else use a TR-3 orTR-4 for this test? 73, Mark N5KAE
Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B
A couple of years ago at a hamfest, a fellow had a TR-3 still in the box.mint copper, mint everything. He wanted 300 bucks.nobody bought it..I still kick myself for not going to an automatic teller and getting an extra hundred or so to buy it. Anyone else have any stories about the one that got away? Live and learn, 73 de N5KAE - Original Message - From: Freeberg, Scott (STP) [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 5:18 PM Subject: RE: [drakelist] Drake 2B I've always chuckled when I would set that tiny little 2A receiver next to a jumbo transmitter of the same period. I was always afraid the jumbo transmitter wuz going to fall on the tiny receiver and squish it : Yes, it would have been nice if there had been a matching transmitter for the 2A, or 2B. I wonder if there had been any talk about that at the time. I never had a 2B. I thought I had one sitting one the shelf until I went to sell it last week. I snapped a photo, sent it to a potential buyer, and he points out its a 2A. :) Well I'll be. All this time I thought I had a 2B sitting on the shelf :) Yes, that 2C and 2NT are a sweet looking pair. I was a Novice when that setup came out in 1967 or 1968. Drake never made a vfo for that pair either. You would have thought they'd be following up with a vfo. 73, SCott WA9WFA -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] 4 line mic plugs
In the mouser catalog, I only see the 502-S-260 (3-conductor straight). Don't see any right-angled S-230 (0.206 diam.) plugs. Are they special purchase or something? 73 Mark, N5KAE - Original Message - From: DAN COTSIRILOS [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 4:51 PM Subject: Re: [drakelist] 4 line mic plugs THANKS EVERYONE I SEE THAT MOUSER HAS THEM, DAN - Original Message - From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: DAN COTSIRILOS [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 4:49 PM Subject: Re: [drakelist] 4 line mic plugs Mouser has the Switchcraft straight (S-260), or right angle (S-230) versions in stock. 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta DAN COTSIRILOS wrote: Is there some supplier that sell the 4 line mic plugs? Dan -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ -- -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] ac-4's
I find that the cinch jones connector male pins on the back of the transceivers get really waxy and makeintermittent contact over time. I use some isoproyl alcohol on a Q-tip on the male blades, then use de-oxit, plug in and out about 10 times.that's it. The last time a problem happened was just last week...lost my audio output from a TR-3 to an AC-4 speaker. After a bunch of trouble shooting, I found that the dirty connector was the only culprit. 73, Mark N5KAE - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 11:42 AM Subject: Re: [drakelist] ac-4's IThe AC-4 that came with the TR-4CW will not fire up the TR-4C (the power won't even come on), and the AC-4 that came with the TR-4C will not power up the TR-4CWrit.It should, it is a compatible supply for all the Drake transceivers. Check the fuse, check to see if there is a 120/240switch on the PS and if so, make sure it is in the 120V position, pull the cap off the interconnecting cable and check for broken leads, pull the bottom off the PS and check the primary of the power tranny. Finally, check around in the PS for broken leads, bad solder jounts, etc.Since you say it will not fire up either rig, it is doubtful that there are 2 bad switches, but if you don't find anything else, check the switches.Please posdt your findings to the list.Thanks, 73 and good luck,John, W4AWM
