Re: [Drakelist] TR7 - CW and ALC level

2014-03-03 Thread Mark Nace
I bought my new TR7 28 years ago (as my first rig ever) and am about to do do 
my first alignment check. I have re-seated the boards once, and that cured most 
of the ills. I have a late-model TR7, along with the maint manual.  If I do it 
by the book, is there anything I should watch out for 
??br/Tnxbr/Markbr/N5KAEa 
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Re: [Drakelist] Fwd: TR-4C S meter zero

2014-02-25 Thread Mark Nace
Seems like this may also have to do with the alignment step on the filter 
matching transformer ???  br/Markbr/N5KAEa 
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Re: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7. Recommendations?

2013-03-22 Thread Mark Nace
Good for you Tom !
I would look for a later serial number TR-7, with the A type features.  It 
may 
even be labeled a TR-7A.  Anyway, it is a great rig.  I started with a used one 
about 26 years ago, and mine is still going strong (a little TLC over the years 
has kept it that way!).  the serial number is in the 8600's, and had the A 
items already in it.  The ones on ebay right now are pretty neat, but one looks 
like it is a lower serial number.  They are VERY functional rigs actually, and 
don't have all the bells and whistles of todays rigs, but most of that stuff 
doesn't have much to do with catching the rare DX, or doing a great job of 
constesting !!!

Best 73
Mark
N5KAE



- Original Message 
 From: Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Fri, March 22, 2013 4:43:25 PM
 Subject: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7. 
Recommendations?
 
 
 
 Good afternoon everyone,
 
 After a long absence from ham radio I am excited about re-entering the hobby 
and I am interested in acquiring a TR-7.  It was my dream radio when career 
took 
me away from the hobby.
 
 Any words of wisdom you may have about the TR-7 would be most welcome.
 Is there anything I should particularly look for in a potential purchase? Any 
thoughts
 on what a TR-7 and power supply in good condition would cost? There is what 
appears to be a very nice one listed on EBay at
 the moment.
 
 Thanks and 73's
 
 Tom
 Ex WD5DFE
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] 2-C

2012-09-10 Thread Mark Nace
Try headpones and see if you can hear.  If so, try some deoxit on the headphone 
jack switching contact.  These contacts get dirty from time to time.  

Let us know how the progress goes.  
73
Mark
N5KAE

 


From: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, September 10, 2012 8:16:31 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] 2-C

The received audio in my 2-C is completely dead. This had happened before and 
then resolved itself but is back. The S-meter still shows the calibrator 
signal, 
and feeding tone into the sidetone jack produces weak audio that is not very 
responsive to the AF gain control and is modulated with 60Hz.. No difference 
between the AM and either of the two sideband positions. There is a slight hum 
in the speaker and considerable hum on the 60uF section of the triple filter 
cap, which is a new replacement one. No audio on the mode switch. Advice?


-- 
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Re: [Drakelist] 4-Line PRESELECTOR drive vs RF TUNE drive

2012-05-01 Thread Mark Nace
I think the tr3 just has a direct drive to the rf tune varicap. No reduction. 
73
Mark
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Re: [Drakelist] Microphone for 4 line

2012-02-20 Thread Mark Nace
Yes. Sorry i didnt make that clear. 
73
Mark
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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4

2012-01-20 Thread Mark Nace
A number of years ago I bought about four AC4's, and installed 3-prong computer 
cords, with the ground attached to the AC4 chassis.  I used the original strain 
relief, but carefully cut some of the plastic out of the original, just enough 
to accomodate the round cord.  They all worked great.  One thing I did not 
consider (and I need to go back and look), is the hot lead of the AC cord being 
on the fuse.  I suppose for safety reasons I should have???

73,
Mark
N5KAE



From: Gary Poland gpola...@cinci.rr.com
To: John Gartman johngart...@charter.net; DrakeList Zerobeat 
drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thu, January 19, 2012 8:43:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] AC-4


John,
  As you suggested it would be easiest to just cut it off at the strain relief 
and re-terminate inside. You will only lose about 6 to 8 inches at best.
 
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Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit

2011-12-24 Thread Mark Nace
Not sure if any of the threads have mentioned this, but I like the DeOxit Pen.  
I think it is lower concentration, and works espcially well on tube pins.  

Mark
N5KAE



From: scpmil...@aol.com scpmil...@aol.com
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sat, December 24, 2011 8:55:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit

I have an HP VTVM and when I first got it, the range switch seemed erratic.  I 
made the mistake of liberally applying De-Oxit to the switch and boy, it got 
really erratic after that.  It took 2 or 3 days of leaving it outside in the 
summer sun to get the switch to dry out and it's been great ever since but  a 
very little bit goes a very long way.  

I learned about De-Oxit from an HP service guy only back then it was called 
Cramolin and came in a small bottle as a liquid.  He would take a wooden 
Q-Tip, 
dip it in the bottle and brush it on computer card edge contacts, and then 
wipe 
it off!  He claimed you only needed the very thinnest of films to insure a 
good 
contact.  I thought he was BS'ing me but have since learned my lesson.

Steve KD2ED

In a message dated 12/23/2011 10:19:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
wa2...@gmail.com writes:
In addition to the wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are 
made especially 
for electrical cleaning mentioned by Dennis, AE6C, I also use the brushes 
listed below.  A drop of DeoxIT on either goes a long way.


These brushes are great for cleaning 7  9 pin tube sockets:
http://www.gumbrand.com/interdental-brushes/products/gum-go-betweens-proxabrush-cleaners-wide/872rn/



These brushes are good for cleaning RCA connectors, 8 pin and other larger 
tube 
sockets, etc:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-AB-50-/200-288


Ken
WA2LBI



On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 13:06, Dennis Monticelli 
dennis.montice...@gmail.com 
wrote:

I have found that 100% DeOxit dries more slowly than the 5% stuff
because the latter is mostly carrier.  So allow a little extra time
before powering up, especially with pots.   A few hours should have
been enough, so it seems that you applied too much.  I almost always
use the 100% stuff but I avoid droplets.  Instead I apply the DeOxit
to one of those wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made
especially for electrical cleaning.  The Q tip then does double duty
of applicator and scrubber.  This works really well for wafer switches
and tube pins.  For socket pins, I use a wooden toothpick that is
coated with DeOxit.  Once again it serves as applicator and scrubber.
The Q tip and toothpick end up with a satisfying dark coloration of
oxides with this method.  Sufaces will glisten after cleaning but you
won't see any red pooling.

With DeOxit a little goes a very long way.  Mild scrubbing with a
rough absorbant surface such as wood or tightly woven Q tip physically
removes the dissolved oxides.

Dennis AE6C



On 12/23/11, y...@aol.com y...@aol.com wrote:
 Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she
 went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got
 some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the
 chassis of dust ,damp cloth  and proceeded to pull all the tubes and
 test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then
 wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the
 wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle  being VERY
 careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the
 pots with the deoxit  spray for pots.
     Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and
 pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was
 about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct,
 put back on the bench flipped the rig over  and ALL the tube sockets and
 wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to
 use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything.  I then
 proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all
 wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier.
 Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line
 receiver,even without a alignment.
       Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots
 of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY
 amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless
 someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the
 deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? 
The
 deoxit was brand new a week ago. I think I will star with the 100%
 alcohol,like I used to use.
 everybody  have a Merry Christmas
 dale wt4t



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Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear

2011-12-21 Thread Mark Nace
This is a bad thought, but we have all seen the big crushers for wrecked cars.  
I wonder if a little crusher exists for radio hulks like this.  

Mark
N5KAE



- Original Message 
 From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
 To: lee pulsa...@embarqmail.com; John Brown brown...@optusnet.com.au; 
drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Wed, December 21, 2011 7:53:31 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear
 
 Two people have bid on it, I see.
 
 Could it be one of you?
 
 On one level, it would be interesting to see if someone could get it to work 
 at 
all.  After all, pseudo-antique shops are making the Big Bux selling Shabby 
Chic these days and using furniture with distressed paint, etc.
 
 Then again, someone could make a mobile out of it.  Would it then be a mobile 
rig?
 
 Ducking...
 
 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 
 I swear by my life, and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake of 
another man, nor ask another man to live for mine.
 -Ayn Rand.
 
 All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.
 
 
 --
 From: lee pulsa...@embarqmail.com
 Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 8:27 PM
 To: John Brown brown...@optusnet.com.au; 'Steve Wedge' 
w1es1...@earthlink.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Nastiest Drake Gear
 
  In a few days you will find someone on here asking how do you remove rust 
  and 
make a cabinet and chassis look like new again.  What brand of stuff in a 
bottle 
will do this in 5 minutes or less.  Then they will add, please, no suggestions 
costing over $10.00 !  You just watch and see if I am correct.
  
  Lee, w0vt 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] [DrakeRadio] Re-capping an R-4

2011-10-09 Thread Mark Nace
At one point several years ago I checked the patent for deoxit and I remember 
it 
being a PO/EO copolymer
of some type.  Oleic acid is a weakly acidic long-chain carboxylic acid, and as 
for the naphtha, I have never
smelled any deoxit that smells like a hydrocarbon solvent.  Having said that, I 
probably need to check again !!!

73
Mark
N5KAE

 


- Original Message 
 From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com
 To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, October 9, 2011 12:04:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] [DrakeRadio] Re-capping an R-4
 
 On Sat, 08 Oct 2011 18:58:33 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote:
 
 I'm sure it has a recommended shelf life, but the bottle I just finished off 
(about 1/4 in the 

 bottom) is at least 15 years old and still seems to clean just fine.  I 
 always 
keep it capped.  

 Actually the only problem I had with it was that the bottle became 
 'deformed', 
i.e., pushed in on 

 one side, so I couldn't get much pressure on it!
 
 I've got a bottle that's about that old, with the same deformity. I still use
 it, and it seems to work, although it has pretty much lost most of it's red
 coloring.
 
 As mentioned before, you can also make your own:
 
 http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg12938.html
 
 73
 
 -Jim
 
 
 --
 Ham Radio NU0C
 Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
 TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
 
 Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.
 
 HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
 http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
 http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Frequency crystals

2011-09-18 Thread Mark Nace
I think I have a TR-3 or two that has that brand of crystals in the pre-mix 
section.  They looked stock to me.
Mark
N5KAE



- Original Message 
 From: Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com
 To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, September 18, 2011 2:59:56 PM
 Subject: [Drakelist] Frequency crystals
 
 I saw some crystals made by Hunt. Anyone heard of them? 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Does Anyone Remember the 1970's AES Ad with Ray Grenier?

2011-08-05 Thread Mark Nace
He's on QRZ



From: whitebear1...@comcast.net whitebear1...@comcast.net
To: Terry Maurice ve3...@execulink.com
Cc: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, August 5, 2011 8:22:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Does Anyone Remember the 1970's AES Ad with Ray 
Grenier?


Wow what a find!  That is definitely Ray Grenier!  I haven't seen that picture 
in 40 years wow!  I dunno if it's late 60's or not.  i'm thinking 60's.  
Thanks 
for digging up the photo Terry.  I seem to recall the Drake photo I'm thinking 
of might have been a slightly older Ray, minus the black frame glasses, and a 
clearly 4C station in view.73, Scott WA9WFA

 


From: Terry Maurice ve3...@execulink.com
Cc: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, August 5, 2011 8:59:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Does Anyone Remember the 1970's AES Ad with 
RayGrenier?

The man and the equipment.

http://www.marcradio.org/rm-1971-03/vanguard-labs.html

Terry
VE3XTM


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[Drakelist] Drake 2-C Alignment Questions

2011-07-24 Thread Mark Nace
Hope there are some 2-C experts out there who can give me some alignment 
advice:    


First Question:  For step A on page 18 of the manual, to center the 50 KHz BFO, 
my generator doesn't go down that low, so I set it to 100 KHz and cap-coupled 
to 

pin 1, V5 and got a audio note, presumably from the 2nd harmonic of the BFO.  
Adjusting T-11 zero beat the note.  Seems like this is pretty similar to using 
the 100 kHz crystal calibrator procedure at the end of the first paragraph.  I 
just need to see if I did it right.  


Second Question:  On step D (VFO alignment), they mention sliding the dial.  
I 

think they are talking about simply sliding the the vertical hair-line, but is 
there any way to adjust the main frequency dial independent of the VFO to get 
it 

right on the money (with the hair line centered)?  Maybe this would be 
over-killI am only one division off the same direction on 3.6 and 4.0 MHz.  


Thanks very much.  I have a cople of 2-C's on the operating table, I have 
stripped this one, it is back together, and working.  Just need to touch up the 
alignment, and paint the cabinet.  BTW, the three crystal oscillators were all 
perfectly on the money.  


73,
Mark
N5KAE


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Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C Bias Adjustment

2011-07-13 Thread Mark Nace
I have had two separate issues with this switch. Deoxit and working back and 
forth a few times solved it. 
73
Mark
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Re: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what would your first station be?

2011-06-17 Thread Mark Nace
25 years ago my first rig was a used Drake TR-7 from Burghardt Amateur Center, 
and I still have it.  Antenna was a G5RV and a BW 300 watt tuner from Madison 
(downtown Houston at the time).  Worked the world with it.  About 12 years ago 
I 
started restoring tube gear, and most of you know what that means...Many 
fine-working radios saved from the scrap heap, and no more room at the QTH for 
any more (not to mention a VERY patient XYL) !!!
73
Mark
N5KAE

 


- Original Message 
 From: John Hudson john.hud...@calema.ca.gov
 To: Darrell Bellerive drbellerive.va...@gmail.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net 
drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Fri, June 17, 2011 2:47:40 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what 
would your first station be?
 
 My first HAM rig was borrowed from a mentor (Tom Roberts WA6YKE/AC5RD)who was 
helping me get my HAM license it was a Knight T-60 transmitter and HRO-60 
receiver. I was 13 at the time, then my dad and I found an HW-16 working, 
bought 
a HG-10B VFO which became the first station I owned. At 16 my Dad bought me a 
Yaesu FT-101B which I still have. As I said in an earlier post, in high school 
I 
was given the opportunity to purchase a HAM station for Helix High School here 
in La Mesa, CA. the station was a Drake TR-4C, RV-4C, MS-4, and W-4 watt meter 
(I'd sure like to know where that rig went). I'm not sure I'd change anything 
we 
did, perhaps instead of the Yaesu I would have asked for the Drake Twins but 
the 
old FT-101B has stood the test of time..
 
 Then again Darrell wouldn't we all like to have known then what we know now; 
Dad lets buy stock in this new company called Microsoft ;-)
 
 De WA6HYQ
 
 -Original Message-
 From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] 
 On 
Behalf Of Darrell Bellerive
 Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 12:08 PM
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Subject: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what 
 would 
your first station be?
 
 The threads about the comparisons of the Drake, Collins, etc. has got me
 thinking about my first receiver and station.
 
 Licenced at the age of 15 back in 1975, I bought used gear from the
 local club members, not giving any thought as to what was great, good,
 or bad in terms of design or performance. It was available and so that's
 what I got.
 
 If I knew then, what I know now, my first receiver and station would
 have been totally different. If I could have afforded it a new Drake
 R-4B or if money was not available, a used Drake 2B would have been my
 first receiver rather than the Hallicrafters SX-140.
 
 So if you knew then what you know now, what would have been your first
 station and what year would it have been?
 
 73,
 Darrell Bellerive
 Amateur Radio Station VA7TO
 
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[Drakelist] RCS-4 External Antenna Switch

2011-05-17 Thread Mark Nace
Hello everyone,
I just acquired an RCS-4 antenna switch that works.  Does anyone have any 
advice 
on whether I need to lube the drive motor, and if so, what to use, and how to 
do 
it?  Any other advice on other items I should be concerned about?  


Thanks and 73
Mark
N5KAE


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Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat

2011-03-28 Thread Mark Nace
My Weller D-550 (240/325 Watt) was easy to find new tips for.  It's a powerful 
gun that does big jobs well, especially PL-259's.  I keep it tinned up, and 
this 
tip has lasted for about 5 years.  

Mark
N5KAE



From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, March 28, 2011 4:29:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat

That's the problem I've always had with the design of the Weller gun, the 
contacts for the tips get corroded.  I used to have a Wen 100/200 watt pencil 
gun that had a different design and never had to reestablish the contacts.  
And 
it could be used for more precision work.  Used it till it broke and I 
couldn't 
find replacements anymore.  Really miss that gun.

Loren - WA3WZR

On 3/28/2011 9:30 AM, gypsym...@aol.com wrote: 


Weller 100/140 gun 
Insufficient heat.  I have found that about once a year I have to back off on 
the nuts that hold the soldering tip in place and re snug them down.  Probably 
gets oxidized ?  In any case and this may be in particular to my guns ( I have 
two of those ) If I can't hear the buzz I know its not going to get hot enough.
The same thing applied to my larger Weller 200/260
73's Carl  wd8nhk
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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit

2011-02-25 Thread Mark Nace
I bought both kits, one for the AC4 and HP-23.  Sure, there were a couple of 
things that I saw as ambiguous, but after careful inspection of the power 
supply, and it's schematic, I saw that it was my problem, not the 
instructions.  
No matter what, I traced everything anyway, making sure all the connections 
made 
sense.  Both supplies worked perfectly.  These kits are the best thing that 
ever 
happened to power supplies!

73
Mark
N5KAE

 


From: John Boyle jmbo...@ripnet.com
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, February 25, 2011 10:39:26 AM
Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit


I bought the AC-4R kit from Mike several montha ago and found the kit very 
easy 
to assemble.  I think he has the right to assume that one can read a schematic 
and has had some experience in working with electronics.  I made it a opoint 
to 
carefully trace all of the leads and compare my wiring with the schematic.  
The 
result was that it passed the smoke test with flying colors and the voltages 
were as advertized.  Mike has done a great job that has benefitted many Drake 
owners.  

 
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Re: [Drakelist] Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

2010-12-22 Thread Mark Nace
Yes, to all Drake folks, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!  You're a bunch of 
great people.  

I am taking some of my time off to organize my tube caddies, and Drake parts to 
get ready for 2011.

73
Mark
N5KAE

 


- Original Message 
 From: Chuck Grandgent ch...@chuckg.com
 To: K9sqg k9...@aol.com
 Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Wed, December 22, 2010 6:52:42 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
 
 Merry Christmas Evan and everyone else !
 
 Still having fun with the Drakes, both using them and working on them.
 
 Couple years ago I got an R4B and stuck the R4A on the shelf, but for
 a Saturday project tried to fire up the R4A but ran into some
 problems, but it's a fun project figuring out what happened and no
 hurry on the project.
 
 A very prosperous and healthy 2011 to everyone here !
 
   Chuck, K1OM, Alachua FL
 
 On Wed, Dec 22, 2010 at 7:46 PM, K9sqg k9...@aol.com wrote:
  To all the Drake enthusiasts I'd like to wish you all a Merry Christmas and
  Happy New Year.  May you be blessed with health and happiness this season
  and always.  May the help, information, and assistance for Drake gear
  continue into 2011.
  73,
  Evan, K9SQG
 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R

2010-11-21 Thread Mark Nace
I echo your good comments.  The rebuild is an excellent creation.
73
Mark
N5KAE




From: ph...@aol.com ph...@aol.com
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sat, November 20, 2010 3:58:03 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4R

Just a word to anyone interested that the AC-4R  power supply rebuild kit 
 is 
everything it's cracked up to be.  I found the  instructions generally easy to 
follow - there were a couple of brief moments of  minor confusion - and the 
supply works splendiferously.  I even used the  upgrade installation as a 
chance 
to add a 3-wire power cord (yeah, yeah, I know,  it ain't factory but it's 
still a good idea).  Mr. T-4X is very  happy.
 
73,
 
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[Drakelist] Drake 2-NT tank coil or parts rig

2010-10-19 Thread Mark Nace
Would anyone have an extra 2-NT final tank available, or a junker parts rig 
with 
an intact tank?  I have one that after it shipped to me a couple years ago, had
been cranked in shipping so bad the coil base ceramic fractured.  It will 
probably still work, but am just checking.  


73 to all
Mark
N5KAE


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Re: [Drakelist] Proper Use of DeOxit

2010-10-16 Thread Mark Nace
I like to use the DeOxit Pen for tube pins, pilot lamps, cinch connector pins, 
etc.  For relay contacts, I saturate small strips of card stock with deoxit 
spray, then run them through (do the same for phone jacks and others that have 
a 
break/make contact in there.  I use the concentrate in the nail polish bottle 
format for contacts that are easy to get at.  I use the spray for 
hard-to-get-at 
switch wafers, but sparingly where needed (I probably shouldn't be doing that, 
but have not had any problems for past 10 years or so.  


73
Mark
N5KAE

 


- Original Message 
 From: Don Cunningham wb5...@martineer.net
 To: Walker g...@att.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sat, October 16, 2010 6:25:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Proper Use of DeOxit
 
 Well, Walker, since I don't see anyone jumping in here to answer you, let me 
take a stab at it.  First, DeOxit should be used sparingly, like a drop at a 
time, and NEVER sprayed on a bandswitch, or like switch with phenolic wafers.
 
 I use a toothpick (or insulin syringe if I can find them) to put a drop right 
where I want it on the contact, then work the switch several times to work it 
in.  I put a drop in each hole of a tube socket and work the tube gently to 
get 
it distributed.  I would advise being careful of using it around front panels, 
plastic pieces etc without testing a small area.  I don't think it is caustic 
or 
harmful, but these cosmetic parts are not easily found if damaged.
 
 I don't see too much lubricant, if any, in DeOxit, so don't think it is good 
long term for use in potentiometers.  Caig has other products for that (like 
Faderlube or something like that).
 
 Maybe that will give you a start, then others can chime in with better 
 details, 
hi.
 73,
 Don, WB5HAK 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 dead receive

2010-10-10 Thread Mark Nace
I had an audio problem about a year agowith my TR-7, where the audio would just 
fade out.  My first thought was the audio amp chip went out, but I went ahead 
and pulled all the boards, deoxit each pin, and reinstalled the boards.  also, 
I 
deoxited all of the plugs, etc. to the digital readout board, etc.  This solved 
everything, including an intermittent digital display problem I had for years.  


73
Mark
N5KAE

 


- Original Message 
 From: Drakedude draked...@comcast.net
 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 1:27:30 AM
 Subject: [Drakelist] TR7 dead receive
 
 Took my TR7 that was in temp controlled storage for about one year and found 
 I 
have no receive. Radio worked 100% when put away in closet.
 TX works fine,all modes,full output. I get meter deflection when I rotate RF 
gain control .
 I have very weak audio of TX signals,no meter deflection when a strong signal 
 ( 
compared to another recvr same antenna)
 Filter selection works,as you cab  hear bandwidth narrow with narrow filter. 
PBT works good also.
 I removed relay  cleaned contacts to no avail.
 All voltages at 10 volts or slightly lower on reg. board.
 
 Any thoughts?
 
 Tnx in advance
 
 Paul AD3G
 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Dead Receive revisited

2010-10-10 Thread Mark Nace
Yes, I have never found that Deoxit cures those kind of problems on my Drakes 
either.  

73, Mark, N5KAE 



- Original Message 
 From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com
 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, October 10, 2010 12:10:43 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Dead Receive revisited
 
 On Sun, 10 Oct 2010 11:56:29 -0400, Drakedude wrote:
 
 I had completely forgot about removing the jumper,and when it didn't 
 receive,I went into repair mode and overlooked the obvious!
 
 Ah, a plug it in, dumba$$ moment. I seem to have those fairly often myself.
 :)
 
 Glad you got it working!
 
 73
 
 -Jim
 
 --
 Ham Radio NU0C
 Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
 TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
 
 Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.
 
 HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
 http://radiojim.exofire.net
 http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
 http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] K4OAH CD's

2010-09-30 Thread Mark Nace
I agree Bill.  The facts are the facts!  The new CD's on the 2C and 2-NT are 
also excellent.  The time and effort taken to compile this information is 
awesome, and serves to 

keep our Drake equipment running.  Of course, I take advantage of Garey's kind 
advice too.  


 73
Mark
N5KAE

 


From: Bill Scott bill.n...@gmail.com
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thu, September 30, 2010 3:39:02 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] K4OAH CD's


I don't want to sound like a broken record, but if you don't own one of 
Garey's 
CD's for your Drakes  your really missing the boat.  I am not a tech, but do 
like to keep my Drakes running myself without the need to send them out to 
someone else.   In the past two months my TR4C has had two problems both of 
which I fixed myself with Garey's advice and being able to refer to his CD 
giving detailed HI-RES pictures of the components of the Drakes. Everything is 
labeled and easy to find.   I was able to identify the component I needed to 
check and make the necessary repairs. I owned the CD for my Drake twins, which 
I 
sold and one for my TR4C.  I  just wish he would produce one for my Collins 
KWM-2A.  The older radios are upwards of 60 years old and things are going to 
go 
bad, its fun and very rewarding to be able to fix things yourself even if you 
are not a qualified tech.

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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R Rebuild Success

2010-07-11 Thread Mark Nace
I agree with all good things said about Mike's 
Upgrades. I used his kits on an AC4 and HP-
23. Work great!
73
Mark
N5KAE

On Sat Jul 10th, 2010 12:31 PM CDT Tom Delano wrote:

Hi Dino,

Congrats on the AC-4R project. Call me paranoid, but this rebuild is the
first thing I do when I get a new AC-4. I also upgrade the old two-wire
power cord with a three-wire grounded cord for a little more peace of mind.

I did the L-4PS upgrade several months ago using Mike Bryce's L-4B/L-7
upgrade kit and I have been very pleased with the results from this rebuild
kit. In fact, I am in the middle of doing the Harbach step-start upgrade on
the L-4B right now. You will be able to see the results at
http://www.w1cc.net once I have finished the module installation. Check
under the Projects menu to see the photos.

73,

Tom, W1CC


On 7/10/10 1:14 PM, Dino Papas k...@cox.net wrote:

 After sitting in my project queue for a couple of years I finally got around
 to rebuilding my original 1969 vintage AC-4 using Mike Bryce's kit.  I had
 stuffed the PCB a year or so ago but as the C-line was working ok there was 
 no
 hurry.  Only problem with the install were the PCB standoffs provided to
 install on the transformer bolts.  Two of the aluminum standoffs wouldn't
 catch at all and the other two were not a positive lock.  Luckily I had a
 collection of standoffs I got from DigiKey long ago and had some that were
 exactly the same lengthbut they were tapped for a smaller bolt than those
 on the transformer.  But a little effort with my tap and die set had them
 installed in a jiffy.
 
 Fired the supply up on the bench and the HV/MV and bias readings were spot 
 on.
 Back into place with the C-line, reset the bias according to the manual and
 powered uppower out was A-ok.
 
 BTW, I did check the old caps with my ESR meter and they tested ok'course
 the question is how many more years would they have done so?  ;-)
 
 I did build myself up a fancy capacitor dishcharge stick to make sure the old
 caps were really dead before working on the supply (my younger days would 
 have
 found me using a clip lead and a screwdriver but I've come along way!).
 
 Anyway, for those of you who haven't done the rebuild yet you may want to
 consider itit's easy to do and hopefully will provide another 30 years of
 service!
 
 Thanks to Mike for making the rebuild kits availablenext project is my
 1979 vintage L-4B supply where I'll use the Harbach rebuild PCB kit and
 soft-start module (they've been sitting in the project queue for a while as
 well).
 
 73 - Dino KL0S
 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Practical?

2010-06-23 Thread Mark Nace
I agree with previous posts about the TR-7.  I got mine used when I became a 
ham 24 years ago.  It started developing an audio problem, and digial readout 
problem, but removing the boards, deoxit on the pins, and reseating solved 
everything.  A touch-up on the alignment and it's a brand new radio.  The 
wb4hfn extender boards are a good buy also.  

73
Mark
N5KAE



From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com
To: Curt rhule...@comcast.net; Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF ni...@ngunn.net
Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wed, June 23, 2010 4:32:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Practical?


Curt,
re: service manual.  The best is to get an original, but good copies are 
fine.  There is also a reasonable PDF version available free from 
http://www.ea1ddo.es/drake.html.  Be sure to send him a thank you note if you 
download, as he has done a service by having it available free of charge.  I 
consider this copy totally acceptable, especially for free.  

I will say that the electronic copies are quite usable, but one you can lay on 
the table is so much easier when you are looking at things (maybe I'm old 
fashioned).  Only time I have really needed mine was when I put the 10 turn 
pot upgrade on my voltage board inside the TR7.

Also if you plan to work on the rig (or have someone work on it for you), the 
extender boards are a must.  Have a look at www.wb4hfn.com for a resource 
paper with data on all the Drake lines and misc good ideas.

73,
Ron WD8SBB


--- On Wed, 6/23/10, Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF ni...@ngunn.net wrote:


From: Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF ni...@ngunn.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Practical?
To: Curt rhule...@comcast.net
Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Wednesday, June 23, 2010, 1:42 PM


Most of my problems have been intermittent faults due to dirty connectors.
I had to change an LED display with gone out segments, they are available.
I somehow killed a PA transistor. The transistors used in the Yaesu FT1000 
series transistors are a direct replacement 
and available from Yaesu.
I now have an intermittent s-meter due to noisy preset pots which are 
available from many suppliers.

Mine was bought in Britain probably 15 years ago so no idea of current value.

If you get one, make sure you get the service manual for it.



On 23-Jun-10 17:09, Curt wrote:
 I really enjoy my old hollow-state Drake equipment, and a friend's
 purchase of a TR-7 has me interested in perhaps owning one. Am a little
 reluctant because while my 2B and 4-line equipment are readily repaired
 should the need arise, imagine the TR-7/7A maybe contains lot of
 components made from unobtainium. What are the experiences of owners on
 this list regarding keeping a TR-7 operational.

 And, what is appropriate price range for one in good operational condition?

 73, Curt KB5JO

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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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-- 
Nigel A. Gunn,  1865 El Camino Drive, Xenia, OH 45385-1115, USA.  tel +1 937 
825 5032
Amateur Radio G8IFF W8IFF (was KC8NHF),  e-mail ni...@ngunn.net       www  
http://www.ngunn.net
Member of  ARRL, GQRP #11396, QRPARCI #11644, SOC #548,  Flying Pigs QRP Club 
International #385,
            Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA LM-1691,  AMSAT-UK 0182, MKARS,  ALC, 
GCARES, XWARN.


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Re: [Drakelist] TR-3

2010-01-10 Thread Mark Nace
Bob,
I would first turn everything off, unhook the TR-3 from the power supply, and 
look at the frame T/R relay and make sure the contacts are clean.  Once they 
are clean, I always do some continuity measurements on the XMIT and RCV cathode 
lines to make sure they really are making good contact.  If this is a no-go, 
make sure the relay tube is actually energizing the relay coil.  Beyond that, 
if the 9 MHz BFO is not being shifted into the SSB filter passband (upper 
sideband filter I think), then there will be no drive at all.  Are you able to 
receive upper and lower sideband QSO's okay?  

Others will probably have more and better advice...

73
Mark
N5KAE

 


- Original Message 
 From: AD5VJ Bob rt...@sbcglobal.net
 To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 6:23:34 PM
 Subject: [Drakelist] TR-3
 
 I have a TR-3 and it is working fb on rx, except when going to the procedures 
 for tuning while using a dummy load as the antenna, on
 page 17 of the manual after presetting the controls as indicated, when I get 
 down to the:
 
 'advance the XMTR gain control clockwise until the plate amperes meter moves 
 up 
 scale slightly from idling current'
 
 It does not move up scale and I have no output when the function switch is 
 set 
 to X-CW per two different watt meters I have put
 inline with the dummy load.
 
 All the tubes light up and seem to be functioning properly.
 
 Any ideas?
 
 Bob AD5VJ
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-3

2010-01-10 Thread Mark Nace
Bob,
Looks like you are getting pull-in on the relay, and that's good.  Removing the 
relay would be pretty difficult, and I have never done it.  

Yes, there are three sets of contacts:  a single-pole single throw, and two 
single-pole double throw.  

Firstpower off, power supply unplugged from the wall, then from the radio.  
To clean, one would need to remove the high-voltage cage.  

I use a very light carborundum paper, and just one pass over the contacts, with 
some deoxit on there too.  Then, I use just paper.  The best dimensions of the 
strip is about 3 inches by 1/8 inch.  To get the normally-open contact 
surfaces, I gently actuate the relay by hand by pressing down very lightly, so 
that the paper is caught between the contacts, then I drag it out slowly.  If 
you don't have carborundum paper, just use the regular paper.  

I've cleaned a number of these TR-3 frame relays like this, and it works pretty 
well.  Just be very careful about bending any of the contact arms !!!

Let's keep the dialog going,
Mark



- Original Message 
 From: AD5VJ Bob rt...@sbcglobal.net
 To: Mark Nace n5...@swbell.net; Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 7:17:11 PM
 Subject: RE: [Drakelist] TR-3
 
 Hi Mark
 
 Yes I can rx both usb and LSB with no problem.
 
 The rig is supposed to switch to the sideband appropriate for the band which 
 it 
 does on all bands except for 40 meters. On 40 it
 goes into usb not LSB for some reason and I have to switch it to X in order 
 to 
 get the LSB signals off of 40 meters.
 
 Does the relay only have the upper contacts. I can see them moving from the 
 top 
 after taking the top off, or do I have to take the
 relay out in order to clean any at the bottom of the relay.
 
 Bob AD5VJ 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mark Nace [mailto:n5...@swbell.net] 
  Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:44 PM
  To: AD5VJ Bob; Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
  
  Bob,
  I would first turn everything off, unhook the TR-3 from the 
  power supply, and look at the frame T/R relay and make sure 
  the contacts are clean.  Once they are clean, I always do 
  some continuity measurements on the XMIT and RCV cathode 
  lines to make sure they really are making good contact.  If 
  this is a no-go, make sure the relay tube is actually 
  energizing the relay coil.  Beyond that, if the 9 MHz BFO is 
  not being shifted into the SSB filter passband (upper 
  sideband filter I think), then there will be no drive at all. 
   Are you able to receive upper and lower sideband QSO's okay?  
  
  Others will probably have more and better advice...
  
  73
  Mark
  N5KAE
  
   
  
  
  - Original Message 
   From: AD5VJ Bob 
   To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
   Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 6:23:34 PM
   Subject: [Drakelist] TR-3
   
   I have a TR-3 and it is working fb on rx, except when going to the 
   procedures for tuning while using a dummy load as the 
  antenna, on page 
   17 of the manual after presetting the controls as indicated, when I 
   get down to the:
   
   'advance the XMTR gain control clockwise until the plate 
  amperes meter 
   moves up scale slightly from idling current'
   
   It does not move up scale and I have no output when the function 
   switch is set to X-CW per two different watt meters I have 
  put inline 
   with the dummy load.
   
   All the tubes light up and seem to be functioning properly.
   
   Any ideas?
   
   Bob AD5VJ
   
   
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-3

2010-01-10 Thread Mark Nace
I think a lotta people just removed and by-passed the signal overload bulb 
because of poor contact.  I have one on the slab right now, and it has no 
bulb.  

Also, about 99% of everything I know about Drake Transceivers I got from Garey 
and others on this reflector over the years !!!  They are great teachers.  

mark



- Original Message 
 From: AD5VJ Bob rt...@sbcglobal.net
 To: k4...@mindspring.com; Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 9:17:41 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
 
 Hi Garey
 
 The bulb you are showing is not there. Could that be a problem?
 
 Bob AD5VJ 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] 
  Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 9:14 PM
  To: AD5VJ Bob; Drakelist
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
  
  Bob -
  
  Attached is the page from my CD with the relay contacts identified.  
  Should help you find what you need to check.
  
  73, Garey - K4OAH
  Glen Allen, VA
  
  Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs 
  
  
  AD5VJ Bob wrote:
   Hi Mark
  
   Yes I can rx both usb and LSB with no problem.
  
    The rig is supposed to switch to the sideband appropriate for the 
   band which it does on all bands except for 40 meters. On 40 
  it goes into usb not LSB for some reason and I have to switch 
  it to X in order to get the LSB signals off of 40 meters.
  
   Does the relay only have the upper contacts. I can see them moving 
   from the top after taking the top off, or do I have to take 
  the relay out in order to clean any at the bottom of the relay.
  
   Bob AD5VJ
  
      
   -Original Message-
   From: Mark Nace [mailto:n5...@swbell.net]
   Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 6:44 PM
   To: AD5VJ Bob; Drakelist@zerobeat.net
   Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
  
   Bob,
   I would first turn everything off, unhook the TR-3 from the power 
   supply, and look at the frame T/R relay and make sure the contacts 
   are clean.  Once they are clean, I always do some continuity 
   measurements on the XMIT and RCV cathode lines to make sure they 
   really are making good contact.  If this is a no-go, make sure the 
   relay tube is actually energizing the relay coil.  Beyond that, if 
   the 9 MHz BFO is not being shifted into the SSB filter passband 
   (upper sideband filter I think), then there will be no 
  drive at all.
    Are you able to receive upper and lower sideband QSO's okay? 
  
   Others will probably have more and better advice...
  
   73
   Mark
   N5KAE
  
    
  
  
   - Original Message 
        
   From: AD5VJ Bob
   To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
   Sent: Sun, January 10, 2010 6:23:34 PM
   Subject: [Drakelist] TR-3
  
   I have a TR-3 and it is working fb on rx, except when 
  going to the 
   procedures for tuning while using a dummy load as the
          
   antenna, on page
        
   17 of the manual after presetting the controls as 
  indicated, when I 
   get down to the:
  
   'advance the XMTR gain control clockwise until the plate
          
   amperes meter
        
   moves up scale slightly from idling current'
  
   It does not move up scale and I have no output when the function 
   switch is set to X-CW per two different watt meters I have
          
   put inline
        
   with the dummy load.
  
   All the tubes light up and seem to be functioning properly.
  
   Any ideas?
  
   Bob AD5VJ
          
  
  
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Observations on chassis discoloration and corrosion

2009-12-26 Thread Mark Nace
Ron,
Great comments.  I keep my drake rigs covered as well.  All that work getting 
the chasses cleaned up, i SURE don't want to do it again!!.  
73
Happy New Year
Mark
N5KAE



- Original Message 
 From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sat, December 26, 2009 7:59:12 AM
 Subject: [Drakelist] Observations on chassis discoloration and corrosion
 
 I have had a few Drakes through my shack over the years and have noticed 
 something I would like to bring to the collecting community that I have not 
 seen 
 discussed before.
 
 The Drakes that I have had with really good and or pristine chassis, were 
 typically from (when I could follow it back) owners who used radio covers on 
 their rigs.  There has also been generally, a direct correlation to the 
 amount 
 of dust seen on the chassis and the amount of discoloration and corrosion.  
 Also, the bottoms of chassis tend to be much better condition than the tops.
 
 So here are my thoughts.  Keep the dust off the chassis as it can and does 
 hold 
 moisture.  Moisture in turn is a catalyst for corrosion (discoloration being 
 simple oxidation, is a very mild form of corrosion).
 
 I sold my TR3 a few years back.  It was one of the best TR3 chassis I have 
 ever 
 seen.  Not just because it was mine, hi  :-)  The first owner had it covered 
 when not in use.  I too followed his actions.
 
 Don't take this the wrong way, storage in a damp basement under a radio cover 
 is 
 NOT good.  OTOH keeping a rig in a reasonable environment with a radio cover 
 when not in use is cheap insurance.
 
 I keep all my rigs covered when not in use.  Not anything fancy, just some 
 material stitched up to form a box cover.
 
 Thoughts, comments?
 
 73,
 Ron WD8SBB
 
 
       
 
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Re: [Drakelist] CW Key Connector

2009-12-10 Thread Mark Nace
Bob,
CW jack is a normal 1/4 inch phono, as is the speaker jack.  Many times, you 
will fine a transceiver that has 1/4 inch replacing the narrower mic jack, but 
I always change them back.  I think you need the grid block keying protocol.  
Others will have better comments.  How is your TR-3 doing?  I have restored 
several.  Let's keep the dialog going...
73
Mark
N5KAE

 


- Original Message 
 From: AD5VJ Bob rt...@sbcglobal.net
 To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Thu, December 10, 2009 7:35:43 PM
 Subject: [Drakelist] CW Key Connector
 
 I was able to come up with an orignal .210 inch connector for the mic plug on 
 my 
 TR-3. I am looking in the manual and it doesn't say
 if the same (Switchcraft S-230) .210 inch diameter type of connector is used 
 for 
 the cw key or not.
 
 Does anyone know if they are both the same type of connector? Also, I may end 
 up 
 using an automatic keyer that I built out of a kit
 with it, but have not seen anything in the manual on my kit concerning 'grid 
 block keying'. Is there a special kind of keyer I have
 to use with this rig?
 
 Bob AD5VJ
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 filters

2009-12-07 Thread Mark Nace
I agree Jim.  My TR-7 was over 25 years old, and I pulled the boards, deoxited 
the pins (and all other connectors), band switch, and all my audio, digital 
readout, and low receive problems just went away.  
73
Mark
N5KAE

 


- Original Message 
 From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com
 To: drakel...@.zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Mon, December 7, 2009 12:44:31 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 filters
 
 On Mon, 7 Dec 2009 10:28:59 -0800, Robert Spiva wrote:
 
 I have been using a TR-7 line for about two months that sat on a shelf for 
 quite a number of years.  It had been working wonderfully, but this weekend 
 everything went quiet.  To get any receive signal through I have to have the 
 pass band engaged.  When the other two A+B=C filter are engaged I get a very 
 weak signal coming though.  This is the case in all modes AM, RTTY, CW, LSB  
 USB.  Anyone have any ideas what's wrong?
 
 
 First idea, dirty/oxidized pins in the Molex connectors between the plugin
 boards and the parent board. This is probably the most common ailment with
 aging 7-line radios. The cure can be as simple as pulling all the boards and
 reseating them, but a good cleaning and sparing application of DeOxit doesn't
 hurt. When working with the aluminim card cage covers, DON'T overtighten the
 screws. They can strip easily. They need to be snug, but not lug-nut tight.
 Also check the various grounding tabs and fingers while you are in there.
 
 73
 
 -Jim
 
 --
 
 It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
 but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
 suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never 
 be 
 explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth! - 
 G'Kar, 
 Babylon 5
 
 
 
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[Drakelist] TR-7 and RV-7 Analog VFO Readouts

2009-12-01 Thread Mark Nace
Hi,
I just got an RV-7 remote VFO for my TR-7 (has the DR-7).  It works well, but 
the 100kHz rear dial on the RV-7 is a bit off from where it is supposed to be.  
The front dial is okay, and is about right on.  Is there an easy way to 
reposition the rear dial on the VFO without screwing something up?  I'd kinda 
like to know where I am without having to put the TR-7 into transmit.  

Thanks very much to the group,
Mark 
N5KAE


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[Drakelist] Several Questions for Drakers

2009-11-25 Thread Mark Nace
I have saved up a few mundane questions for the Drake folks.  Instead of 
separate emails, I will just ask them all in one:

1.  The early AC-3 power supply had some sort of choke filter for the +650 volt 
section, right after a bridge rectifier looks like.  My buddy has one of these
actually.  can someone explain it briefly, and tell why it was changed out 
(cost perhaps)?  

2.  In the TR-3, does anyone know why it was designed to require going back and 
forth from SSB to Xcw to transmit and receive CW?  I got out one of
my TR-3's and re-discovered this, and after looking at the manual, found it was 
true.  Pretty inconvenient, and probably pretty hard on the switch over time.  

3.  When putting new diodes in an AC-3 or AC-4, is it recommended to add 
speed-up caps and equalizing resistors across the diodes?  

4.  When working across a band on TR-3's or TR-4's, I usually just peak the Rf 
tune, but wonder how far one should go before re-dipping again in the same 
band.  

Thanks for listening, and thanks for all the good advice over the years.

73
Mark
N5KAE  (a fellow Drake Transceiver hobbyist)

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Re: [Drakelist] SS and the TR7

2009-11-08 Thread Mark Nace
John,
I agree.  I worked SS CW yesterday with a TR-4, then switched to my TR-7 today 
with the 500 Hz filter.  The TR-4 was a challenge of course, but it was fun to 
just pick out a station, and work him just based on the audio tone, amongst all 
of the other signals in the passband!!  I agree with your comments about the 
TR-7.  I have had mine for 23 years (bought it second hand), and with some 
normal TLC, it still works like it did then.  Not sure I worked you, but hope 
you scored well.  
73
Mark
N5KAE

 


- Original Message 
 From: john joh...@nc.rr.com
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, November 8, 2009 4:12:46 PM
 Subject: [Drakelist] SS and the TR7
 
 Ran the TR7 on 20 and 40  during Sweepstakes today. It's been a while since 
 I've 
 had it on the air, and it really was a pleasure to operate . The only thing I 
 miss with it is the ability to log the frequency directly to the computer.
 
 The rig is full of filters and 40CW during SS is a great test.
 
 Sure were some good fists out there this weekend
 John K5MO
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 Noise Blanker question

2009-10-07 Thread Mark Nace
Ron, All,
I asked Bill Frost about the 9-NB in a TR-4 of mine a number of years ago.  My 
question, and his response (below) should be interesting to you.  My 34-NB 
manual for the kit does not have a photo of the board, just a couple of general 
drawings with trimmers, etc. identified for alignment purposes.  73, Mark, N5KAE

Dear Bill,
I have a TR4 with a 9-NB noise blanker in it.  The manual has the schematic
for the unit, but I can't find anywhere on the main TR4 schematic, or the
9-NB schematic as to exact locations where the blanker wires patch into the
rest of the radio.  Also, the 9-NB section mentions a separate
impedance-matching board under the chassis that the band switch goes
through.  My TR4 has no such board.  I have asked both of the Drake
reflectors, but have had no takers on this one.  
 
Also, is there any way to remove this blanker, and just use the TR4 as-is?  
 
I have a TR4C with the 34PNB, and that blanker board looks very different,
and seems to just plug into a socket.  Looks like an up-grade design
compared to the 9-NB !
 
Any help would be appreciated!
 
73, and have a great day!

Dear Mark,
    Thanks for the e-mail.  The first noise blanker was the 9-NB, it 
was designed for the transceivers which used the 9 MHz IF, thus the 9-NB (9 MHz 
Noise Blanker).  
 
    However, the 9-NB was the noise blanker used in the TR-6 
transceiver.  The initial noise blanker for the TR-3 and TR-4 was supplied in a 
kit form, as the 34-NB.  However the board layout, pictures, etc. used in the 
first 34-NB instruction manuals were those of the 9-NB noise blanker.  Thus the 
confusion, the noise blanker is a 34-NB although the manual refers to it as the 
9-NB in places.
 
    The kit was soon discontinued, as the TR-3 or TR-4 had to be 
aligned properly or the noise blanker would not blank properly.  The later 
34-NB noise blanker was re-designed to eliminate the NBK PC board.  The noise 
blanker, as in your TR-4, should operate properly provided the voltages are 
present, the circuits are operating, etc.
 
    The noise blanker was reworked again, with the introduction of the 
TR-4C, and renamed the 34-PNB.  The 34-PNB was a Plug-in Noise Blanker.  Making 
it an easy accessory to install at any time..  There were a couple versions of 
the 34-PNB as it progressed.
 
    We have a few of the 34-NB instruction manuals in stock, if 
interested.  The instruction manual is our part number 385-0045 and the price 
is $15.00 plus the shipping and handling charges. 



- Original Message 
 From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com
 To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net; RadiosRUs radiogu...@hotmail.com
 Sent: Wednesday, October 7, 2009 7:07:46 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-4 Noise Blanker question
 
 Pete,
 I gave Garey a copy of the 34NB kit that Drake sold for wired install to the 
 TR3 
 and early TR4s.  I have the electronic copy somewhere, and I think Garey has 
 it 
 on his CDs, but am not sure.  I seem to remember that it had a picture of the 
 PC 
 board, so it might be fairly easy to fabricate.  About the only hard part 
 would 
 be any toroids.  Seems like it has 2 or 3 of them.  I could guess resonate at 
 the IF freq, but not really sure.
 
 If you are serious, I will try to look up the electronic doc and get it to 
 you.
 
 73,
 Ron WD8SBB
 
 --- On Tue, 10/6/09, RadiosRUs wrote:
 
  From: RadiosRUs 
  Subject: [Drakelist] TR-4  Noise Blanker question
  To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
  Date: Tuesday, October 6, 2009, 9:38 PM
  
  
   
   
  
  
  
  
  
   
  This may have been covered before; but ... has
  anyone ever hand built a 
  noise blanker using the Drake schematic and installed it in
  a TR-4?
   
  Pete N6QW 
  
  -Inline Attachment Follows-
  
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[Drakelist] 12BZ6 and Drake 2-C

2009-10-06 Thread Mark Nace
Hello Drake experts,
I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with subs for the 12BZ6 for a 
2-C I have.  NOS are pretty pricey.  Just a thought
73
Mark
N5KAE



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[Drakelist] Fw: Which tubes are the right tubes ‏

2009-09-05 Thread Mark Nace




- Forwarded Message 
From: Mark Nace n5...@swbell.net
To: Walker g...@worldnet.att.net
Cc: mark nace n5...@swbell.net
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2009 10:37:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Which tubes are the right tubes‏


Phil,
You are feeling the same pain as I have over the years on the TR-4 
documentation.  I have two original manuals with the associated schematics.  I 
can help a little, so here goes: 

1.  The early Drake TR-4's were sort of transitional from the TR-3.  TR-3's 
used to have 12BA6's for both X-mit IF amp (V15) and Receive (V11 and V12) IF 
amps .  
2.  In the TR-4's, they started going to 6BZ6's in the first receive IF amp 
(V11), but kept 12BA6 as the second receive IF (V12).  In both schematic 
versions I have, the 1st received IF V11 was just whited out by Drake, and a 
6 is penciled in.  Same with the Z.  so, 12BA6 went to 6BZ6.  
3.  Also in the TR-3's, the crystal calibrator (V5) used to be a 12BA6.  In 
the TR-4's, they switched to the 6BZ6 in the voltage and resistor charts, BUT, 
the schematic for serial numbers 30,500 and later show a 6BA6 as the crystal 
calibrator, whereas schematic for serial numbers 28,500 and later showed a 
6BZ6 as V5.  
4.   You may have an old version of the manual, and a newer version of the 
schematic.  The reason I think so, is that the 12BZ6 was used as the 1st rec. 
IF (V11) in very early TR-4's.  Even in these later manuals, if you look at 
the pictures, the use serial number 16050, which was probably the first TR-4 
prototype they started selling.  Moreover, if you look closely at the 
top-chassis picture, you can just BARELY see that V11 was labeled as 12BZ6.  I 
think they changed it out over the course of production.  Also, they show 
12BA6 in this picture as the crystal cal. tube.  So, the pictures are 
misleading for later models, even though the voltage and resistance charts, as 
well as schematics were updated.  That's why the charts in your manual are why 
they list 12BA6 and 12BZ6 as V5 and V11 respectively.  
5.  V4 in theTR-3 used to be a 6HS6 (transmit mixer), but later they switched 
to the 6EJ7 as the mixer, and it also shows up in the top-chassis picture as 
6EJ7 !  
6.  Even in the latest version of the manual I have, 6HS6 is still listed in 
the block diagram, but the charts show the 6EJ7.  Guess they forgot to change 
that in the block diagram.  

Yes, there WERE changeovers, as you say, and some glaring inconsistencies 
through the years.  I would trust the chassis lettering, and try to get a 
later version of the manual.  

Hope this is as clear as mud,and good luck.  We can keep the dialog going for 
sure.  

73,
Mark
N5KAE


From: Walker g...@worldnet.att.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2009 7:47:46 AM
Subject: [Drakelist] Which tubes are the right tubes‏

I have a TR-4, 1968 manufacture date, serial number 28124. It has worked well 
for years, with the last few being dormant as my vertical took a hit a few 
winters ago with icing. I've replaced the vertical, and I'm trying to re-tube 
the unit. Here is where the confusion arises: 
 
The chassis lettering and schematic for tubes V4, V5, V11 and both agree and 
are respectively: 6EJ7, 6BA6, 6BZ6.
 
Note: the schematic has V5 and V11 with a hand lettered 6 in front of 6BA6 
and 6BZ6 versus all other tubes which have stencil guided lettering.
 
The Manual's Voltage Reference chart and Tube List for V4, V5 and V11 are: 
6EJ7, 12BA6, 12BZ6
 
The Manual's Block Diagram shows V4 as 6HS6
 
I'm not sure what's supposed to be right, though I have a tendency to believe 
the chassis lettering and schematic. The manual is internally inconsistent, 
and doesn't agree with the physical hardware or schematic. I probably can 
take out V5 and V11 and measure the filament voltage present to see if it 
really is set up for a 6 or 12 volt tube in those sockets.
 
I found some correspondence between the original owner, whom I purchased the 
unit from, and the factory regarding a technical problem. The factory rep 
wasn't sure in solving a problem whether the former owner needed a 6BZ6 or a 
12BZ6 so he sent him one of each. Apparently the factory didn't know either!
 
Was there some changeover for different serial number ranges, between various 
tube types or what, and what is the best way to tell which tubes really 
belong in the circuits?
 
Thanks for pointing me toward a resource, if you know one, to help get some 
answers.
 
Phil WA2CLX
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Re: [drakelist] TR-4 band switch problem

2004-09-09 Thread Mark Nace

Mark Nace [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Matt,
I have a TR-3 that I bought as a junker, and R40, 470 ohm, had vaporized.
Replaced it, and as I kind of expected, it also started smoking upon turning
the band switch also.  It was a very perplexing problem, and after some
resistance measurements and quick voltage measurements turning the unit on
and off very quickly, I found that the 250 volt line was being placed across
R40 due to a double-make on the switch wafer due to the shaft being
wallowed out and not registering correctly.  I positioned the wafer
correctly, and carefully added some fast-setting polyester cement on each
side, right on the shaft and up onto the wafer a little.  It cured the
problem, and the TR-3 works perfectly now.  Of course, the best fix would be
to replace the wafer, but I only paid about 80 bucks for the radio, and this
was a good fix at the time.  Not sure about the lights, but make sure the
bulbs are installed correctly, and not making contact with the metal shrouds
that guide the light.

Anywayhope this helps.  Let us know how it goes.
73,
Mark
N5KAE

- Original Message - 
From: Matthew E. McNeely [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2004 2:56 PM
Subject: [drakelist] TR-4 band switch problem



 Matthew E. McNeely [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an
utterence to the drakelist gang
 --
 I have a wonderful early TR-4 that works well except that sometimes when I
 change bands with the band switch I hear a snap sizzle sound and resistor
 R40 a 470 ohm resistor burns up. I replace the resistor and the TR-4 works
 fine except that the upper and lower usb lights are both on in the upper
 ssb position for any band. if I let the TR-4 sit for while without being
 used after the initial repair the ssb indicator lights work as they
should.
 So my question for those more knowledgeable than are out there is what may
 be going on? I don't see why R40 is blowing up? and what that has to do
 with the usb lsb lights and why when the unit sits over night after the
 repair things work correctly.
 Oh by the way the ssb works just fine it seems like just the lights or the
 light switching is what is fouled up.

 Thanks in advance for any help.

 Matt

 K1MCN

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Re: Followup... Re: [drakelist] tectured paint experiment that worked!

2004-08-29 Thread Mark Nace



Try to stay away frommethylene 
chloride,and especially carbon tet. or chloroform.

73,
de Mark, N5KAE


  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2004 7:37 
  PM
  Subject: Re: Followup... Re: [drakelist] 
  tectured paint experiment that worked!
  
  Methyl Ethyl Ketone aka MEK is really bad stuff. Use it 
outside only and don't inhale the fumes.73,John, 
  W4AWM


[drakelist] Drake TR-M

2004-05-24 Thread Mark Nace



Isthe Drake TR-M useful at all for amateur 
use? I have never owned one until now. Being channelized, it seems 
like it is probably limited in use. Has anyone used one on the ham 
bands? 

Thanks for your advice and input
73,
Mark
N5KAE



[drakelist] TR-3 and the 2003 ARRL Frequency Measurement Test

2004-05-24 Thread Mark Nace



Just for the fun of it, I used a restored TR-3 to 
enter the 2003 ARRL frequency measurement test. The results were as 
follows:

Measured Freq. 
(Hz) Error 
(Hz) 
Error (ppm)
3,585,250+133.70 
37.29
7,050,250 
+159.90 
22.68
14,050,750-674.30 
-47.99

I didn't measure the 15 meter signal. These 
number were definitely not winners, but I was impressed with the TR-3's 
performance. Iused the crystal calibrator, the dial, and skirt 
markings (best estimation between skirt markings). The calibrator was 
previously calibrated with WWV about 1 year earlier when the final alignment was 
done. 

Did anyone else use a TR-3 orTR-4 for this 
test? 

73,
Mark
N5KAE





Re: [drakelist] Drake 2B

2004-02-24 Thread Mark Nace

A couple of years ago at a hamfest, a fellow had a TR-3 still in the
box.mint copper, mint everything.  He wanted 300 bucks.nobody bought
it..I still kick myself for not going to an automatic teller and getting
an extra hundred or so to buy it.  Anyone else have any stories about the
one that got away?

Live and learn, 73
de N5KAE


- Original Message -
From: Freeberg, Scott (STP) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2004 5:18 PM
Subject: RE: [drakelist] Drake 2B



 I've always chuckled when I would set that tiny little 2A receiver next to
a jumbo transmitter of the same period.  I was always afraid the jumbo
transmitter wuz going to fall on the tiny receiver and squish it :

 Yes, it would have been nice if there had been a matching transmitter for
the 2A, or 2B.  I wonder if there had been any talk about that at the time.
I never had a 2B.  I thought I had one sitting one the shelf until I went to
sell it last week.  I snapped a photo, sent it to a potential buyer, and he
points out its a 2A.  :)  Well I'll be.  All this time I thought I had a
2B sitting on the shelf :)

 Yes, that 2C and 2NT are a sweet looking pair.  I was a Novice when that
setup came out in 1967 or 1968.  Drake never made a vfo for that pair
either.  You would have thought they'd be following up with a vfo.

 73, SCott WA9WFA

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Re: [drakelist] 4 line mic plugs

2004-02-02 Thread Mark Nace

In the mouser catalog, I only see the 502-S-260 (3-conductor straight).
Don't see any right-angled S-230 (0.206 diam.) plugs.  Are they special
purchase or something?

73
Mark, N5KAE

- Original Message -
From: DAN COTSIRILOS [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] 4 line mic plugs



 THANKS EVERYONE I SEE THAT MOUSER HAS THEM,  DAN
 - Original Message -
 From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: DAN COTSIRILOS [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 4:49 PM
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] 4 line mic plugs


  Mouser has the Switchcraft straight (S-260), or right angle (S-230)
 versions in
  stock.
 
  73, Garey - K4OAH
  Atlanta
 
 
  DAN COTSIRILOS wrote:
 
   Is there some supplier that sell the 4 line mic plugs?  Dan
 
 


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Re: [drakelist] ac-4's

2004-01-30 Thread Mark Nace



I find that the cinch jones connector male pins on 
the back of the transceivers get really waxy and makeintermittent contact 
over time. I use some isoproyl alcohol on a Q-tip on the male blades, then 
use de-oxit, plug in and out about 10 times.that's it. The last time a 
problem happened was just last week...lost my audio output from a TR-3 to an 
AC-4 speaker. After a bunch of trouble shooting, I found that the dirty 
connector was the only culprit. 
73,
Mark
N5KAE


  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 11:42 
  AM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] ac-4's
  IThe AC-4 that came with the TR-4CW 
  will not fire up the TR-4C (the power won't even come on), and the AC-4 that 
  came with the TR-4C will not power up the TR-4CWrit.It should, 
  it is a compatible supply for all the Drake transceivers. Check 
  the fuse, check to see if there is a 120/240switch on the PS and if so, make 
  sure it is in the 120V position, pull the cap off the interconnecting cable 
  and check for broken leads, pull the bottom off the PS and check the primary 
  of the power tranny. Finally, check around in the PS for broken leads, bad 
  solder jounts, etc.Since you say it will not fire up either rig, it is 
  doubtful that there are 2 bad switches, but if you don't find anything else, 
  check the switches.Please posdt your findings to the 
  list.Thanks, 73 and good luck,John, 
W4AWM