Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-19 Thread Curt Nixon
All the ones I have seen are points up and down--diamond style.  This 
provides both lateral and vertical support for the rod.


Curt
KU8L

Steve Wedge wrote:
Now I'll get a little too granular: should I orient it with a corner 
on the bottom, or let it ride on the edge of the square?


Thanks, Curt, Garey and Gary for all your help so far!

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom 
appended thereto.



--
From: "Curt Nixon" 
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 7:11 PM
To: "Steve Wedge" 
Cc: "Gary Poland" ; ; 


Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III


Hi Steve:

I'm not sure it doesn't matter if the end pc is flush or not but keep 
it perpendicular to the core axis.  You may just have found the 
culprit there.  I like Ambroid cement but nearly anything will work 
as an adhesive there.  A small amount of 5 min epoxy or even some 
carpenters glue.


Curt
KU8L


Steve Wedge wrote:

I thought it would be something of that nature.
 I have taken the PTO apart enough to slide the coil form off the 
slug and at least initially I don't see any cracks or loose 
segments. However, the diamond-shaped washer at the end of the coil 
came out easily as if it wasn't glued at all.  It was flush with the 
end of the form, but I see that it could be recessed in the brown 
sleeve so that it is against the white coil form.
 Does the washer/spacer need to be flush, or bedded down against the 
form?
 I'm going to supper shortly, so won't get to look at the slug under 
my microscope until the table is cleared Winking smile emoticon

 I have pics if needed.  I'm going to clean the whole thing with IPA.
 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra
 All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom 
appended thereto.


*From:* Gary Poland <mailto:gpola...@cinci.rr.com>
*Sent:* Monday, July 18, 2011 6:10 PM
*To:* Steve Wedge <mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>
*Cc:* drakelist@zerobeat.net <mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>
*Subject:* Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

Steve,
  The T-4X puts a –30 volts on the INJ line when the XMTR position 
is selected. That –30 shuts down the R-4A’s premixer V8. In RCVR 
position the –30 volts is removed, the T-4X’s PTO output is 
deselected, and the R-4A’s injection is then free to be boss.

 73, Gary
 



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Steve Wedge


This may be the "BINGO!" moment.  The washer was only held in with friction, 
and it was riding on the flat.


Off to do some gluing, I am...

Thanks & stay tuned!

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



--
From: "Gary Poland" 
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 9:07 PM
To: "Steve Wedge" 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III


Steve ,
 It needs to be oriented in a diamond shape. The brass end shaft rides in 
the " V ", not the flat.



73, Gary

http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Steve Wedge
Now I'll get a little too granular: should I orient it with a corner on the 
bottom, or let it ride on the edge of the square?


Thanks, Curt, Garey and Gary for all your help so far!

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



--
From: "Curt Nixon" 
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 7:11 PM
To: "Steve Wedge" 
Cc: "Gary Poland" ; ; 


Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III


Hi Steve:

I'm not sure it doesn't matter if the end pc is flush or not but keep it 
perpendicular to the core axis.  You may just have found the culprit 
there.  I like Ambroid cement but nearly anything will work as an adhesive 
there.  A small amount of 5 min epoxy or even some carpenters glue.


Curt
KU8L


Steve Wedge wrote:

I thought it would be something of that nature.
 I have taken the PTO apart enough to slide the coil form off the slug 
and at least initially I don't see any cracks or loose segments. 
However, the diamond-shaped washer at the end of the coil came out easily 
as if it wasn't glued at all.  It was flush with the end of the form, but 
I see that it could be recessed in the brown sleeve so that it is against 
the white coil form.
 Does the washer/spacer need to be flush, or bedded down against the 
form?
 I'm going to supper shortly, so won't get to look at the slug under my 
microscope until the table is cleared Winking smile emoticon

 I have pics if needed.  I'm going to clean the whole thing with IPA.
 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra
 All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom 
appended thereto.


*From:* Gary Poland <mailto:gpola...@cinci.rr.com>
*Sent:* Monday, July 18, 2011 6:10 PM
*To:* Steve Wedge <mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>
*Cc:* drakelist@zerobeat.net <mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>
*Subject:* Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

Steve,
  The T-4X puts a –30 volts on the INJ line when the XMTR position is 
selected. That –30 shuts down the R-4A’s premixer V8. In RCVR position 
the –30 volts is removed, the T-4X’s PTO output is deselected, and the 
R-4A’s injection is then free to be boss.

 73, Gary


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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Curt Nixon

Hi Steve:

I'm not sure it doesn't matter if the end pc is flush or not but keep it 
perpendicular to the core axis.  You may just have found the culprit 
there.  I like Ambroid cement but nearly anything will work as an 
adhesive there.  A small amount of 5 min epoxy or even some carpenters glue.


Curt
KU8L


Steve Wedge wrote:

I thought it would be something of that nature.
 
I have taken the PTO apart enough to slide the coil form off the slug 
and at least initially I don't see any cracks or loose segments.  
However, the diamond-shaped washer at the end of the coil came out 
easily as if it wasn't glued at all.  It was flush with the end of the 
form, but I see that it could be recessed in the brown sleeve so that 
it is against the white coil form.
 
Does the washer/spacer need to be flush, or bedded down against the form?
 
I'm going to supper shortly, so won't get to look at the slug under my 
microscope until the table is cleared Winking smile emoticon
 
I have pics if needed.  I'm going to clean the whole thing with IPA.
 
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 
To be is to do - Socrates

To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra
 
All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom 
appended thereto.


*From:* Gary Poland <mailto:gpola...@cinci.rr.com>
*Sent:* Monday, July 18, 2011 6:10 PM
*To:* Steve Wedge <mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>
*Cc:* drakelist@zerobeat.net <mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>
*Subject:* Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

Steve,
  The T-4X puts a –30 volts on the INJ line when the XMTR position is 
selected. That –30 shuts down the R-4A’s premixer V8. In RCVR position 
the –30 volts is removed, the T-4X’s PTO output is deselected, and the 
R-4A’s injection is then free to be boss.
 
73, Gary



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Steve Wedge
I thought it would be something of that nature.

I have taken the PTO apart enough to slide the coil form off the slug and at 
least initially I don't see any cracks or loose segments.  However, the 
diamond-shaped washer at the end of the coil came out easily as if it wasn't 
glued at all.  It was flush with the end of the form, but I see that it could 
be recessed in the brown sleeve so that it is against the white coil form.

Does the washer/spacer need to be flush, or bedded down against the form?

I'm going to supper shortly, so won't get to look at the slug under my 
microscope until the table is cleared 

I have pics if needed.  I'm going to clean the whole thing with IPA.

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



From: Gary Poland 
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 6:10 PM
To: Steve Wedge 
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III


Steve,
  The T-4X puts a –30 volts on the INJ line when the XMTR position is selected. 
That –30 shuts down the R-4A’s premixer V8. In RCVR position the –30 volts is 
removed, the T-4X’s PTO output is deselected, and the R-4A’s injection is then 
free to be boss.

73, Gary<>___
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Gary Poland
Steve,
  The T-4X puts a –30 volts on the INJ line when the XMTR position is selected. 
That –30 shuts down the R-4A’s premixer V8. In RCVR position the –30 volts is 
removed, the T-4X’s PTO output is deselected, and the R-4A’s injection is then 
free to be boss.

73, Gary___
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Garey Barrell

Eddy -

Sorry to hear of your dissatisfaction with Drake performance!  :-)  We ALL have those 
'moments'..


Drake built better than 100,000 of this basic PTO over the years, so I guess it stands to reason 
that there might be a 'dog' or two in there...


I've 'handled' several hundred of those over the last 40+ years, and haven't seen one yet that 
couldn't be fixed.


As for the 751A, check back with me when one of those custom ICs dies.  :-)

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Eddy Swynar wrote:

Hi Steve,

The frequency of my T-4X PTO jumps upward almost exactly 100-KHz with the cover 
removed...

I've tried several different "tricks" in futile efforts at trying to tame mine, including (A) 
unplugging the cooling fan that I added to allow everything inside to "heat soak" properly in the 
confines of my cool basement (no change), and, (B) "gasketing" the seam at the base of the PTO 
shield can with aluminum foil to better shield its contents, and to negate any effect that 
expansion/contraction of the shield might have upon the frequency (again, no effect).

I have yet to re-enter the inner sanctum of my PTO here (far too busy with other 
stuff), but when I do I plan to completely swab everything down inside it that 
moves with isopropyl rubbing alcohol&  Q-tips.

The frequency flutter is so very vexing for me that I'm afraid it's fast-removing the gleam in 
my eye that I've heretofore reserved for Drake gear---indeed, I'm almost ashamed to admit that 
I'm coming to more&  more appreciate the sheer joy&  pleasure of the reliability&  
quality of signal that my old Icom 751A affords me in my portable work, as compared to the 
on-going grief given me thus far by the Drake Twins. That's sacrilege, I know, admitting such 
on a Drake Reflector, but it is, alas, a sad reality&  fact...

~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ




***


On 2011-07-18, at 12:13 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:


Logging on from work:

Garey, I thought about that last night and, as luck would have it, I had an 
extra good 6HS6, which I swapped.  There was no change.

The PTO seems to be a bit better with the cover removed, not the entire unit.  
Of course the frequency of the PTO changes considerably with the cover off.  
It's got me scratching my head, as there should really be no significant heat 
being generated in there...

W1ES

Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:11:15 -0400
From: Garey Barrell
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III
Message-ID:<4e243f03.1090...@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Steve -

This has been 'one of those' problems! Just a quick question I've forgotten 
if you said the PTO
was stable outside the radio? IF so have you subbed the PreMixer tube? Possible 
load change on the
PTO due to a tube anomaly?

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Bob Spooner
Eddy,

I don't think aluminum foil makes good gasketing material for two reasons.
At least in this country, the shiny side of the foil is coated with Mylar
which is nonconducting. In addition, aluminum oxide is an insulator as well.

73,
Bob AD3K

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Eddy Swynar
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 12:27 PM
To: Steve Wedge
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

Hi Steve,

The frequency of my T-4X PTO jumps upward almost exactly 100-KHz with the
cover removed...

I've tried several different "tricks" in futile efforts at trying to tame
mine, including (A) unplugging the cooling fan that I added to allow
everything inside to "heat soak" properly in the confines of my cool
basement (no change), and, (B) "gasketing" the seam at the base of the PTO
shield can with aluminum foil to better shield its contents, and to negate
any effect that expansion/contraction of the shield might have upon the
frequency (again, no effect).

I have yet to re-enter the inner sanctum of my PTO here (far too busy with
other stuff), but when I do I plan to completely swab everything down inside
it that moves with isopropyl rubbing alcohol & Q-tips. 

The frequency flutter is so very vexing for me that I'm afraid it's
fast-removing the gleam in my eye that I've heretofore reserved for Drake
gear---indeed, I'm almost ashamed to admit that I'm coming to more & more
appreciate the sheer joy & pleasure of the reliability & quality of signal
that my old Icom 751A affords me in my portable work, as compared to the
on-going grief given me thus far by the Drake Twins. That's sacrilege, I
know, admitting such on a Drake Reflector, but it is, alas, a sad reality &
fact...

~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ





***


On 2011-07-18, at 12:13 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

> Logging on from work:
> 
> Garey, I thought about that last night and, as luck would have it, I had
an extra good 6HS6, which I swapped.  There was no change.
> 
> The PTO seems to be a bit better with the cover removed, not the entire
unit.  Of course the frequency of the PTO changes considerably with the
cover off.  It's got me scratching my head, as there should really be no
significant heat being generated in there...
> 
> W1ES
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:11:15 -0400
> From: Garey Barrell 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III
> Message-ID: <4e243f03.1090...@mindspring.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
> 
> Steve -
> 
> This has been 'one of those' problems! Just a quick question I've
forgotten if you said the PTO 
> was stable outside the radio? IF so have you subbed the PreMixer tube?
Possible load change on the 
> PTO due to a tube anomaly?
> 
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Eddy Swynar
Hi Steve,

The frequency of my T-4X PTO jumps upward almost exactly 100-KHz with the cover 
removed...

I've tried several different "tricks" in futile efforts at trying to tame mine, 
including (A) unplugging the cooling fan that I added to allow everything 
inside to "heat soak" properly in the confines of my cool basement (no change), 
and, (B) "gasketing" the seam at the base of the PTO shield can with aluminum 
foil to better shield its contents, and to negate any effect that 
expansion/contraction of the shield might have upon the frequency (again, no 
effect).

I have yet to re-enter the inner sanctum of my PTO here (far too busy with 
other stuff), but when I do I plan to completely swab everything down inside it 
that moves with isopropyl rubbing alcohol & Q-tips. 

The frequency flutter is so very vexing for me that I'm afraid it's 
fast-removing the gleam in my eye that I've heretofore reserved for Drake 
gear---indeed, I'm almost ashamed to admit that I'm coming to more & more 
appreciate the sheer joy & pleasure of the reliability & quality of signal that 
my old Icom 751A affords me in my portable work, as compared to the on-going 
grief given me thus far by the Drake Twins. That's sacrilege, I know, admitting 
such on a Drake Reflector, but it is, alas, a sad reality & fact...

~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ




***


On 2011-07-18, at 12:13 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

> Logging on from work:
> 
> Garey, I thought about that last night and, as luck would have it, I had an 
> extra good 6HS6, which I swapped.  There was no change.
> 
> The PTO seems to be a bit better with the cover removed, not the entire unit. 
>  Of course the frequency of the PTO changes considerably with the cover off.  
> It's got me scratching my head, as there should really be no significant heat 
> being generated in there...
> 
> W1ES
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:11:15 -0400
> From: Garey Barrell 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III
> Message-ID: <4e243f03.1090...@mindspring.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
> 
> Steve -
> 
> This has been 'one of those' problems! Just a quick question I've 
> forgotten if you said the PTO 
> was stable outside the radio? IF so have you subbed the PreMixer tube? 
> Possible load change on the 
> PTO due to a tube anomaly?
> 
> 73, Garey - K4OAH
> Glen Allen, VA
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Steve Wedge
Logging on from work:

Garey, I thought about that last night and, as luck would have it, I had an 
extra good 6HS6, which I swapped.  There was no change.

The PTO seems to be a bit better with the cover removed, not the entire unit.  
Of course the frequency of the PTO changes considerably with the cover off.  
It's got me scratching my head, as there should really be no significant heat 
being generated in there...

W1ES

Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 10:11:15 -0400
From: Garey Barrell 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III
Message-ID: <4e243f03.1090...@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Steve -

This has been 'one of those' problems! Just a quick question I've forgotten 
if you said the PTO 
was stable outside the radio? IF so have you subbed the PreMixer tube? Possible 
load change on the 
PTO due to a tube anomaly?

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Garey Barrell

Steve -

This has been 'one of those' problems! Just a quick question I've forgotten if you said the PTO 
was stable outside the radio? IF so have you subbed the PreMixer tube? Possible load change on the 
PTO due to a tube anomaly?


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Steve Wedge wrote:

I may take you up on this. First, a few observations that I made tonight:
1. Voltage at the +DC supply terminal on the small board under the PTO was 9.18 V. As the 
frequency jumped around, this voltage did not change. I am accustomed to nominal voltages in older 
tube gear being "not exact", so being off by 8% didn't seem to be a matter of concern.
2. Waveform on a 100 MHz scope looked good but there was a slight amount of jitter visible at 50 
nS/div.
3. Interesting observation: waveform on the premixer side of L6 had some modulation on it that 
looked like the twists you'd see in loose rope. I'm assuming this is a little bit of cross-mod 
from the band oscillator.
4. Signals sound less "pure" (almost chirpy) when using the R-4A to control frequency. This occurs 
on all bands. Everything sounds great when using the T-4X to control the frequency. The T-4X has 
none of the problems with changing frequency when wiggling the tuning knob. The R-4A is very 
sensitive to all mechanical inputs.
I'm also straining my eyes on this schematic and trying to figure out how the INJ works. I think 
it's the output from the premixer, V8, which is the difference between the PTO and the crystal 
band oscillator. How does the receiver "know" which signal (transmitter or receiver) to pick? I'm 
assuming there's a DC voltage on the INJ line as well as the RF signal (sorry, my eyes were 
crossing following the switching in the T-4X schematic).

73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh
If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!

- Original Message -
*From:* Gary Poland <mailto:gpola...@cinci.rr.com>
*To:* Steve Wedge <mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>
*Sent:* Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:06 PM
*Subject:* Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

Steve,
Except for a few PTO’s that had no output, I have not had the problems you 
mention with any
Drakes I have owned or serviced over the years. Some that where heavily 
oxidized or had rusted
frames I installed a piece of solder braid like the TR-7’s have. Maybe once 
in a while the
shield would be loose and I would have to “ rework” the spring clips to 
make them grab better.
Except for cleaning and relubing the bearings and worm shaft they just 
don’t seem to have
problems. I have quite a few PTO parts here recovered from the Drake plant 
when they gave up
repair service and a few complete PTO’s that had issues also from Drake. 
Anyway I would love
the challenge if you want to send it this way and of course you would get 
it back. It’s too
bad eBay has run the prices up so high on vintage radio gear and parts.
73, Gary



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Curt Nixon

Hi Steve:

Slug rod and yoke follower can be removed completely by removing the 
colil form and base from rear of frame and then is-assembling the lead 
screw.  Takes a little fiddling to get the rod then out of the frame but 
it will fit.


Just for inspection, you can just remove the coil form off the back of 
the frame.


Gary might have some more tricks but this has worked for me.  The 
several pcs of core material are sandwiched with a nut and well 
varnished..never saw one damaged or cracked in perhaps a couple dozen 
teardowns, but it could happen.  Unless they are just loose, I doubt 
this is doing what you describe.  But, anything that might cause 
mechanical movement in any direction, will cause a frequency shift.  
Make sure the rear coil form cap with the square hole for the rod is 
still firmly cemented in place.  I always add a little Ambroid cement to 
the glued parts since the original can get brittle and fail.  THe back 
rod guide is critical to stability of the rod.


Curt
KU8L



Steve Wedge wrote:

Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 16:00:22 -0400
OK - this is starting to make a little more sense.  If the ferrite is cracked 
or loose, this sort of thing can happen, then, right?

What's the best way of extracting the slug from the coil form?

Thanks for all the help...

Steve, W1ES/4

From: Garey Barrell 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III
Message-ID: <4e233f56.7010...@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Steve -

The chrome rider bar and follower should be clean, with NO lubrication.  Ensure that the spring is 
pulling the follower FIRMLY against the bar.


Examine the slug closely for any cracks or loose segments.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs




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[Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-18 Thread Steve Wedge
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 16:00:22 -0400
OK - this is starting to make a little more sense.  If the ferrite is cracked 
or loose, this sort of thing can happen, then, right?

What's the best way of extracting the slug from the coil form?

Thanks for all the help...

Steve, W1ES/4

From: Garey Barrell 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III
Message-ID: <4e233f56.7010...@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Steve -

The chrome rider bar and follower should be clean, with NO lubrication.  Ensure 
that the spring is 
pulling the follower FIRMLY against the bar.

Examine the slug closely for any cracks or loose segments.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs




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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-17 Thread Steve Wedge
I may take you up on this.  First, a few observations that I made tonight:

1. Voltage at the +DC supply terminal on the small board under the PTO was 9.18 
V.  As the frequency jumped around, this voltage did not change.  I am 
accustomed to nominal voltages in older tube gear being "not exact", so being 
off by 8% didn't seem to be a matter of concern.

2. Waveform on a 100 MHz scope looked good but there was a slight amount of 
jitter visible at 50 nS/div.

3.  Interesting observation: waveform on the premixer side of L6 had some 
modulation on it that looked like the twists you'd see in loose rope.  I'm 
assuming this is a little bit of cross-mod from the band oscillator.

4.  Signals sound less "pure" (almost chirpy) when using the R-4A to control 
frequency.  This occurs on all bands.  Everything sounds great when using the 
T-4X to control the frequency.  The T-4X has none of the problems with changing 
frequency when wiggling the tuning knob.  The R-4A is very sensitive to all 
mechanical inputs.

I'm also straining my eyes on this schematic and trying to figure out how the 
INJ works.  I think it's the output from the premixer, V8, which is the 
difference between the PTO and the crystal band oscillator.  How does the 
receiver "know" which signal (transmitter or receiver) to pick?  I'm assuming 
there's a DC voltage on the INJ line as well as the RF signal (sorry, my eyes 
were crossing following the switching in the T-4X schematic).

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Poland 
  To: Steve Wedge 
  Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 7:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III


  Steve,
  Except for a few PTO’s that had no output, I have not had the problems you 
mention with any Drakes I have owned or serviced over the years. Some that 
where heavily oxidized or had rusted frames I installed a piece of solder braid 
like the TR-7’s have. Maybe once in a while the shield would be loose and I 
would have to “ rework” the spring clips to make them grab better.  Except for 
cleaning and relubing the bearings and worm shaft they just don’t seem to have 
problems. I have quite a few PTO parts here recovered from the Drake plant when 
they gave up repair service and a few complete PTO’s that had issues also from 
Drake. Anyway I would love the challenge if you want to send it this way and of 
course you would get it back. It’s too bad eBay has run the prices up so high 
on vintage radio gear and parts.

  73, Gary___
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-17 Thread Gary Poland
Gang, 
   Donnie WA9TGT is back making parts for Drakes again, here is the URL ..

http://www.2bradioparts.com/


73, Gary W8PU___
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-17 Thread Garey Barrell

Steve -

The chrome rider bar and follower should be clean, with NO lubrication.  Ensure that the spring is 
pulling the follower FIRMLY against the bar.


Examine the slug closely for any cracks or loose segments.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Steve Wedge wrote:
Thanks, Curt & Al.  That's what I thought - there would be no logical reason why someone would 
make that fork loose.


I can't help but think that my problem is mechanically-induced.  I guess I'm going to have to take 
the whole bloomin' thing apart so I can clean off the slug.



Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
- Original Message - From: "Al Parker" 
To: "Steve Wedge" 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III



Hi Steve,
To answer one question, at least, Yes, the fork is loose purposely. The spring that attaches to 
it and leads back across the top of the case towards the "outside" keeps it tight against the 
shaft to that side. The shaft should be smooth.  If the spring isn't there you get backlash.

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 7/17/2011 12:51 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

I'm going to start this with a request for a working 4-twins PTO if
anyone would like to sell one to me.
I'm wondering, though, as I tightened up the end-screw of the main
tuning shaft, if the guide-fork that rides along the upper shaft is
supposed to be really loose or not. The frequency jumping definitely
occurs if I touch any of these parts - this may be just coincidental.
The one thing that makes it so I'm not convinced that it's simple
expansion during heating is that the frequency jumps up /and down./
The PTO on my T-4X is nowhere near as sensitive to touching.
Looks like I just missed a PTO that went up on eBay at the end of June.
Drat. I'm dreading taking this thing completely apart for fear that I'll
completely break it.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh
If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!




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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-17 Thread Steve Wedge
Thanks, Curt & Al.  That's what I thought - there would be no logical reason 
why someone would make that fork loose.


I can't help but think that my problem is mechanically-induced.  I guess I'm 
going to have to take the whole bloomin' thing apart so I can clean off the 
slug.



Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
- Original Message - 
From: "Al Parker" 

To: "Steve Wedge" 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III



Hi Steve,
To answer one question, at least, Yes, the fork is loose purposely. The 
spring that attaches to it and leads back across the top of the case 
towards the "outside" keeps it tight against the shaft to that side. The 
shaft should be smooth.  If the spring isn't there you get backlash.

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 7/17/2011 12:51 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

I'm going to start this with a request for a working 4-twins PTO if
anyone would like to sell one to me.
I'm wondering, though, as I tightened up the end-screw of the main
tuning shaft, if the guide-fork that rides along the upper shaft is
supposed to be really loose or not. The frequency jumping definitely
occurs if I touch any of these parts - this may be just coincidental.
The one thing that makes it so I'm not convinced that it's simple
expansion during heating is that the frequency jumps up /and down./
The PTO on my T-4X is nowhere near as sensitive to touching.
Looks like I just missed a PTO that went up on eBay at the end of June.
Drat. I'm dreading taking this thing completely apart for fear that I'll
completely break it.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh
If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-17 Thread Al Parker

Hi Steve,
	To answer one question, at least, Yes, the fork is loose purposely. 
The spring that attaches to it and leads back across the top of the case 
towards the "outside" keeps it tight against the shaft to that side. 
The shaft should be smooth.  If the spring isn't there you get backlash.

73,

Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

"There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats"
Ratty, to Mole

On 7/17/2011 12:51 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

I'm going to start this with a request for a working 4-twins PTO if
anyone would like to sell one to me.
I'm wondering, though, as I tightened up the end-screw of the main
tuning shaft, if the guide-fork that rides along the upper shaft is
supposed to be really loose or not. The frequency jumping definitely
occurs if I touch any of these parts - this may be just coincidental.
The one thing that makes it so I'm not convinced that it's simple
expansion during heating is that the frequency jumps up /and down./
The PTO on my T-4X is nowhere near as sensitive to touching.
Looks like I just missed a PTO that went up on eBay at the end of June.
Drat. I'm dreading taking this thing completely apart for fear that I'll
completely break it.
73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh
If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-17 Thread Curt Nixon

Hi Again Steve:

There is quite a large amount of clearance in the slotted follower over 
the rod.  It generally stays up against one side due to the spring 
tension applied with the external spring.  Spring is there isn't it?


Looks kind of cheesy but works fine.

Curt
KU8L



Steve Wedge wrote:
I'm going to start this with a request for a working 4-twins PTO if 
anyone would like to sell one to me.
 
I'm wondering, though, as I tightened up the end-screw of the main 
tuning shaft, if the guide-fork that rides along the upper shaft is 
supposed to be really loose or not.  The frequency jumping definitely 
occurs if I touch any of these parts - this may be just coincidental.
 
The one thing that makes it so I'm not convinced that it's simple 
expansion during heating is that the frequency jumps up /and down./
 
The PTO on my T-4X is nowhere near as sensitive to touching.
 
Looks like I just missed a PTO that went up on eBay at the end of 
June.  Drat.  I'm dreading taking this thing completely apart for fear 
that I'll completely break it.
 
73,
 
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 
"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."

- Joe Walsh
 
If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!



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[Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Act III

2011-07-17 Thread Steve Wedge
I'm going to start this with a request for a working 4-twins PTO if anyone 
would like to sell one to me.

I'm wondering, though, as I tightened up the end-screw of the main tuning 
shaft, if the guide-fork that rides along the upper shaft is supposed to be 
really loose or not.  The frequency jumping definitely occurs if I touch any of 
these parts - this may be just coincidental.

The one thing that makes it so I'm not convinced that it's simple expansion 
during heating is that the frequency jumps up and down.

The PTO on my T-4X is nowhere near as sensitive to touching.

Looks like I just missed a PTO that went up on eBay at the end of June.  Drat.  
I'm dreading taking this thing completely apart for fear that I'll completely 
break it.

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!___
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