[Elecraft] K2 - Clean +5V for mic pre-amp
I gave up using the 5A rail that supplies the Microphone jumper and Microphone socket for a preamp either internal or external - too much electrical noise, and adverse effects on MCU operation etc. Via Pin7 of P1 on the Front panel board I connected the 8A rail to the input of a small 3 terminal 5V regulator (78L05) which is mounted on the Front panel board. The regulator output has a 47uF and a 0.1uF capacitor to decouple it. I disconnected the 5A supply feed to the Microphone jumper, and connected it to the new +5V supply. End result I can draw what current I need (within reason), there is NO noise, and no possibility of upsetting the K2 firmware with loading or RF feedback. 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Anti-VOX
I have made a small change to my K2 Anti-VOX project. The project can be found at http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~baker/ 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Scratchy received audio
OK, here's a small problem with a simple solution.. Symptom:- Received audio sounding scratchy, suspected loudspeaker. Problem:- Bad contact. The plating (Tin ?) had worn through on loudspeaker connector female crimp pins. Does anyone remove their K2 top cover more than me ? Solution:-Replaced the worn female crimp pins with new ones. I will now look for a replacement plug and socket with gold flashing. 73 Stewart G3RXQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: SV: VOX and ANTIVOX
On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 12:13:23 +0100, rolf heidenborg wrote: > Ok Stewart, > During active antivoxtime you have no chance to override the > outcoming sound . > Only chance to get in is to reduce the af or wait until it has > been quiet longer > than the delaytime. > There one may perhaps like some kind of overide if you like to > get in and there you > have to use your ptt-button if it seems urgent if can not wait or > there is a long > local qrm on, which make you unable or the other end unable to > know what is going on. > I do not see any flaw in this. >> OK, Rolf >> I now see where your coming from. >> The Anti-VOX level on any transceiver should not be set too high. >> If it is then you will get the problem you describe, that is you must wait >> until the incoming sound from the loudspeaker stops before you can >> get enough of your voice through to trigger the VOX. >> If the Anti-VOX level is set correctly then it will just be enough to stop >> your transceiver from going to tx-mode when the other guy speaks, but >> your voice can override at any time. >> The way I adjust things here are:- >> a) Set the microphone gain pot (if there is one) to get the correct level >> into the rig. On the K2 this may mean playing around with different >> microphones. You should be reasonably close to the microphone say >> 10-30cm away to keep the background noise to a minimum. >>b) Tune in a strong SSB signal and turn the AF gain for normal listening >> volume out of the loudspeaker. >>c) Turn your power level to the minimum (in case you transmit). >>d) If you have Anti-VOX turn the Anti-VOX gain to a minimum. >>e) Switch the VOX on. >>f) Slowly increase the Anti-VOX gain until the incoming audio no longer trips >> your TX. If you find that any AF gain setting/strong signal trips your TX, >> then SLIGHTLY increase the Anti-VOX gain. >> It is like a lot of things in Amateur Radio it needs practice, but you get >> better with practice. >> Hope this helps. Anti-VOX really does work ! >>73 >>Stewart G3RXQ > 73 > Rolf SM0CLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 burn-in
K2TA asked: Has anyone really hammered their K2/100 with high CQ or QSO rates for a 24 hour period without a secondary fan? I'd be curious how it held up and were you successful in cooking eggs on it? It might make a good George Forman portable contest grill. http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-07/msg00508.html 73, VR2BrettGraham ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CW "key clicks"
Still having a distorted CW signal from my K2. I installed the FWK2MCIO upgrade,hoping the problem would be solved. The distorsion sounds like the russian woodpecker in the 80's And is present on the begin of every character. Turning the power pot has influence,"clicks" are loudest on low power, and (almost)gone at maximum output I also noticed a second carrier on low power, 1 KC apart from the CW carrier When I increase power this carrier dissapears suddenly(not checked on 28 MHz) I am using the K2 as IF for a 144 MHz DEM transverter. VRFDET is a rectified RF output signal, appr.3V,taken from the output connector,and connected to the RF connection (near the K2 VRFDET rectifier diode) Power regulation works fine on a dummy load,but unpredictable when connected to the driver amplifier(SWR is < 1.5 ) I checked also the 28 MHz IF signal , with transverter switched off, signal sounds the same as on 144 MHz. I changed the control board with PA2DW , no difference. RF drive and bias voltage to the 10 Watt K2 amp is interrupted. Something wrong in this setup or problem in K2 ??? Nanko PA0V ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Ham Featured in NYTimes today
Hi all: There is a terrific article about Ken Schaffer, N2KS on page G1 (front page of "Circuits" section) of today's "New York Times". I don't know him, but the article mentioned that he was a ham. I did the search and found him. He is a successful inventor, located here on Manhattan's Upper West Side, and he has developed a product called "TV2ME" which provides internet access to broadcast TV in an ingenious way. Here is his website: http://home.nutscape.org 73 de Brian W3BW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering station
Mike and all, Thanks for the heads up, Mike. I'm wondering if anyone has ordered and received the Circuit Specialists soldering stations which looked like Hakko 936's ? If so could they give us a similar report on that unit? At $35.00 it is indeed a tempting buy, but with Mike's post...? Thanks, Tom McCulloch, WB2QDG k2 1103 - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Mike S) Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2004 10:53 pm Subject: [Elecraft] Soldering station > (this is a resend to the list, the first was bounced by QTH.net > because their postmaster has some brain-dead SMTP spam checking > misconfiguration which produces false positives (for the subject > line "Circuit Specialists 701 rework station:. Gr.) > > About a week ago, Tom Hammond pointed out that Circuit Specialists > had some soldering stations which looked like Hakko 936's ( > http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307 ) for a > good price. I noticed that they had a through hole rework station > ( http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7789 ) which > also looked very similar to a Hakko offering. There has been some > conjecture that these are the same as the Hakko units, but are > being sold by an OEM to Hakko for considerably less. > > Since my 20 year old Pace desoldering station recently died, I > thought I'd try out one of these, especially since the $200 price > was by far better than anything else available. This is about 20% > of what a similar Hakko unit runs. > > I receive my station today, and can report that these are very > obviously NOT the same as real Hakko products. They're Chinese > clones. As mentioned earlier, these are made by Aoyue ( > http://www.aoyue.com/english/index.htm ). From the looks of this > unit, I doubt Aoyue OEMs anything to Hakko - some things are > close, others are functional, but none are of the same quality. > > The desoldering handpiece is of decent quality. It appears that it > will take Hakko spares, including heaters and tips. It could > definitely use a better tip - this one is chrome (?) plated and > won't "tin." The soldering pencil has a rubber grip instead of the > heat insulating foam a real Hakko has, but is overall of decent > quality. Both use multipin "microphone" style circular connectors, > which is different than what Hakko uses. > > The station itself is workable, the electronics seem to do what > they're supposed to (they regulate tip temperature and have an LED > which lights when power is applied to the tip, so it blinks when > the tip is at the set temp). The controls (switches and pots) are > pretty cheap, I'll probably upgrade these. They silk screened > "Circuit Specialists" on the front, but didn't bother with a > Fahrenheit temperature scale. The manufacturer took time to grind > the markings off the ICs on the circuit board (they copied Hakko, > but don't want to be copied themselves, I guess), and no schematic > is provided in the manual. > > The biggest obvious difference is that it uses a completely > different vacuum pump than a real Hakko - meaning no ready source > of spare parts. The pump actually works better than that on my > old Pace. One strange thing though, is that the instruction manual > (in pretty good Engrish [ http://www.engrish.com/ ]) clearly shows > how to disassemble and clean a Hakko pump. The actual pump is > completely different than that illustrated in the manual. > > All things considered, it works well. Time will tell how this unit > holds up, but it seems to be a good deal. A couple of better > quality switches and pots, some real Hakko desoldering tips, and a > bit of time should take care of the minor issues. > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar - Dec 2004
~~ N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR December 2004 ~~ 40 METER FOXHUNT - Every Friday 0200z to 0359z (Thurs 9 PM to 11 PM EST) Info: http://www.cqc.org/fox/index.htm Truffle Hunt - 30 min before Fox Hunt Info: http://fpqrp.com/winter_hunt.html ~~ QRP ARCI Topband CW & SSB Sprint *** QRP CONTEST *** Dec 2, z to 0600z Rules: http://2hams.net/ARCI/index.htm ~~ ARRL 160 meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category Dec 3, 2200z to Dec 5, 1600z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html ~~ TARA RTTY Mêlée ... 150W category Dec 4, z to 2400z Rules: http://www.n2ty.org/seasons/tara_melee_rules.html ~~ Wake-Up! QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Dec 04, 0400z to 0600z Rules: http://ruqrp.narod.ru/index_e.html ~~ TOPS Activity 80 Meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category Dec 4, 1800z to Dec 5, 1800z Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/topsac.htm ~~ QRP ARCI Holiday Spirits Homebrew Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Dec 5, 2000z to 2400z Rules: http://2hams.net/ARCI/index.htm ~~ Adventure Radio Society - Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Dec 7, 0200z to 0400z (First Monday 9 PM EST) Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/ ~~ ARRL 10 Meter Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category Dec 11, z to Dec 12, 2400z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html ~~ The Great Colorado Snowshoe Run (40 Mtr CW)... QRP Category Dec 11, 0200z to 2359z Rules: http://www.cqc.org/contests/ ~~ RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST! *** Dec 13, 0100z to 0300z Rules: http://fpqrp.com/fpqrprun.html ~~ AGB (Belarus) Party Contest (CW/SSB) (80m)... QRP Category Dec 17, 2100z to 2400z Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/agbpc.htm ~~ MDXA PSK-31 DeathMatch ... QRP Category Dec 18, z to Dec 19, 2400z Rules: http://www.mdxa1.org/deathmatch.html ~~ RAC Canada Winter Contest (All) ... QRP Category Dec 18, z to 2359z Rules: http://www.rac.ca/opsinfo/infocont.htm See http://www.qrp-canada.com/ for more awards from QRP-Canada ~~ Croatian CW Contest (CW) ... QRP Category Dec 18, 1400z to Dec 19, 1400z Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/9acwc.htm ~~ Stew Perry (W1BB) Topband Distance Challenge (CW) ... QRP Category Dec 18, 1500z to Dec 19, 1500z Rules: http://web.jzap.com/k7rat/stew.html ~~ EA-QRP SSB Contest *** QRP Contest *** Dec 18, 1700z to 2000z (10m-15m-20m) Dec 18, 2000z to 2300z (80m) Dec 19, 0700z to 1000z (40m) Dec 19, 1000z to 1300z (10m-15m-20m) Rules: http://www.eaqrp.com/concurso/concurso-SSB_en.htm ~~ R A E M Contest .. Low Power category Dec 26, 0200z to 0959x Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/raem.htm ~~ ?Holiday Milliwatt CW Contest *** QRP Contest *** Dec 28, 1800 to 0200 z Dec 29, 1800 to 0200 z Dec 30, 1800 to 0200 z ?Rules: http://www.hornucopia.com/contestcal/holidaymw.txt ~~~ QRP BARBERSHOP QUARTET CONTEST (CW QRP)... QRP Contest! Dec 29, 2100 EST to 0300 EST Rules: http://www.io.com/~n5fc/barbershop_contest.htm ~~~ Original QRP Contest (CW - 80, 40 & 20m) ... QRP Category Jan 1, 1500z to Jan 2, 1500z Rules: http://www.qrpcc.de/contestrules/oqrpr.html ~~~ Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL), WB3AAL and others for assistance in compiling this calendar. Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and we will post it and give it more publicity. Anyone may use this "N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar" for your website, newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose. (Include a credit to the source of this material of course.) 72 de Ken Newman - N2CQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.amqrp.org/contesting/contesting.html http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm __
Re: [Elecraft] zero beat detector with KX1?
"Leigh L Klotz, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote : >1. Tune for loudest signal >This, coupled with a bit of pitch recognition, is what most hams do. It >is pretty easy and works unless your KX1 variable crystal filter is set >too tightly, say below 500 Hz, in which case the maximum volume point >shifts a bit and you need to use RIT to get it back to the filter >center. This is the technique that I use and it works well if you set the variable filter to about 500 hz, no less. Leigh is correct that if you tighten the filter down too tight the passband center tends to shift down and this no longer works (route the audio output of the rig through Spectogram and you can clearly see this). I have found with a bit of practice I can nail the zerobeat right on almost everytime using this technique. Michael VE3WMB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan
I've recently been using a K2/100 to drive a Ten Tec Titan as a CW contest rig. I only need about 25 watts drive to get 800 watts or more out of the Titan on most bands. On 160 (and maybe on 80), the K2/100 goes into some sort of unstable condition that causes it to overdrive the power amp and create a pretty strong second harmonic (a ham from Wisconsin emailed me to alert me to it, and said I was about S6). Some testing has isolated it to the K2, thanks to a hint from Bill, NY9H. The Titan is clean as a whistle driven to full power with my TS850 into the same antenna. I'm also seeing some hint of this when operating on 80, and need to investigate it further. I really want to fix this -- the K2 is my favorite CW contesting rig, and I really need its DSP to fight my local noise on 160. Some troubleshooting thoughts. 1) On 160, my only antenna is an 80/40 trap that I must load as a long wire against a radial system (I'm on a city lot, and that's the best I can do). This puts lots of RF in the shack. I suspect this may be related, but maybe not. I also often load the antenna this way on 80. 2) As I increase the drive from the K2/100, I hear instability as the control system shifts from the barefoot K2 to kick in the K2/100 amp. I can also listen to the harmonic on the 850 and hear it increase from barely audible (with no antenna) to quite strong when the rig goes unstable. 3) The K2/100 runs about as warm at 25 watts as it does at 100 watts. 4) There are times that the instability in the K2/100 will cause the overdrive light in the Titan to come on, indicating more than 120 mA of grid current, even though the stable tuning was more like 10 mA or less. This is clearly coming out of the K2/100. This instability is happening with roughly 20-25 watts of drive from the K2/100 and 500 watts out of the Titan. The Titan is working into a big Ten Tec tuner, and a VSWR that is 1:1. I recently replaced all the fixed caps in the tuner with 6 kV parts. 5) I have observed some pin 1 problems in the K2, and have fixed one of them (at the mic connector). Maybe I need to fix the one at the headphone connector too. Any thoughts or experiences with any of this from the group? Jim Brown K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] QRP CW Contest Monday
Here is a good way for you to try operating your KX1 as a Pedestrian Mobile. The December Spartan Sprint will be held on December 6, 2004, (which is It's two hours of fun as you contact other QRP CW stations on 80, 40, 20, 15, and/or 10 meters. (7040 and14060 are the best frequencies for pedestrian mobile operation).. The contest starts at 9 pm EST, 8 pm CST, 7 pm MST, and 6 pm PST and runs for two hours. That's 0200-0400 UTC. The contest is Monday night, even though the UTC is Tuesday morning. The Spartan Sprint exchange is RST - State - Power (e.g. 559 MI 5W). Contest details and rules are at www.arsqrp.com/ars/pages/spartan_sprints/ss_rules_new.html ...There is special recognition for those who operate outdoors. If you operate outdoors, please note it in your Soapbox comments after the contest. After the contest report your summary and score at the autolog at www.ARSqrp.com/ars/ss_log.html (You don't need to submit a log to have fun.) In your Soapbox comments after the contest, start by listing your radio and antenna. via w0rw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Static - a true story
I was working with a large scale scientific computer in a temperature and humidity controlled environment (68F and 50%H). We were encountering quasi random errors which were (eventually) traced to coincide with console operations with a particular operator. There were no input errors on the key strokes!! We called in the local University's research department to try to help us. Even though we had anti-static mats, grounding tabs, and we were using carpets with a copper strand content, it was found that this particular operator would carry a charge of ~18KV when walking from the tape drives to the console. Big "zap" on the keyboard, microsecond duration... Long story made short -- The operator (female - no bias intended) was requested to refrain from wearing nylon/polyester clothing, she agreed and the problem was solved. Moral: If you are nor going to take anti-static precautions, then sit *very* still in your chair and don't shuffle your feet !! Dave ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan
Jim Can you test your system into a dummy load instead of an antenna? This would help determine whether it is truly rf feedback from the antenna into the rig. 73, Bob N6WG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 Spur on 160m ?
During a recent 80m QSO with Ron, ZL1TW, he reported that I had some kind of FM-ing on 80m cw. Did some fooling-around yesterday & found the problem only existed on 80m & only on powers of 80w or more. It was VERY noticeable on a second Rx & I was surprised nobody had mentioned it before - however, it was a kind of revenge for Ron, as it was me who told him about the problem on his K2 a few weeks ago. Anyway, I installed a 12pF capacitor from the junction of D12/D14 to ground, on the KPA-100 & all now seems clean. Not sure if the problem had always existed with my unit, or whether it appeared 'along the way'. This quick & easy mod DOES work though, but it would be good to get some official Elecraft comments! 73 to all de Mike, zl1mh ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan
For what its worth, You might try to choke all cables connected to the K2. Sounds like RF is getting is somewhere. You might have such a high RF field in your shack because of your antenna system that it might be impossible to cure on the short term Choking all the cables might be a start. I use RG174 for all keying lines and such. You might want to choke your headphones as well. I have had trouble in this area too until I got a more resonate antenna installed on my city lot. It is a true inverted-L...around 130 foot long. You can use an UNUN to get to the right feed point impedance or use a tuning cap/inductor arraingement. With your Titan (goood amp) the components would have to be pretty healthy. As for the second harmonic, I was in a 160 meter contest several years ago where a guy came on and said we were 20 of S9 on 80 meters. We were into a 1/4 wave verticle on 160 with a very good match. I think that sometimes RXs are pretty good that --46 to -55 db down is not enough. He ck, what do I know though? These are just random thoughts. I've had a neighbor compain that when she was curling her hair with a curling iron (coil of hot wire) that she could hear me in her hearing aid! Lee - K0WA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 7, Issue 31
Elecraft K2 for sale with the following options: Serial Number: 04275 KIO2 – Aux I/O Module KNB2 – Noise Blanker KBT2 – Internal Battery Option KAF2 – Audio Filter and Real Time Clock KAT2 – Automatic Antenna Tuner $1275 for all of it including shipping within the US Reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED] I put this beauty together about six months ago and have had a ball with it. Unfortunately, I find that I only use two bands and now want to build the KX-1. I have used it from my home with a longwire, from a hotel room with an inverted-V and from a ship with a whip. In all cases, I have made many enjoyable CW contacts. All manuals come with it. Terry Southern - KC0QZX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New Build K2/100
I just received my new K2/100 with all the bells and whistles. I ordered all the necessary tools to help put it together i.e.: solder station, etc. I haven't built a kit since the days of Heathkit and that was many years ago. If anyone has suggestions, I would appreciate helpful comments. Thanks and 73 de Alan, K6IPM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100
Congratulations, Alan. You're in for a fun journey through the building of your K2. One suggestion that many of us have used is this. Take an old cardboard box, around the size your K2 came in. Cut it horizontally so that all the ends of the little corrugations are exposed. Now, when you are inventorying and building, you can place your parts where they are visible, and grouped together. Say you have 10 .01uF disk caps. Place them side by side with one lead in the corrugation holes. Now as you need one you can just reach out for it and its there. Plus, you can quickly see how many reamin, and whether this agrees with the inventory. Good luck and ask questions whenever you need to. 73, Bob N6WG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K160RX Hi Current
I just installed the 160 meter/rx antenna option and everything seems to be working fine...EXCEPT...when I try to tune on 160 I get first the Hi Current notice then .1 1.0-1nothing out. I've got a K2/100 connected to an Astron 30 amp power supply so I'm sure there's plenty of voltage. I can't peak L3 and L4 . Receive on 160 is gang busters and everything is completely normal on all other bands. the new receive jack works flawlessly. I'm stumped. Thanks! Andy W1AWB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan
On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 09:17:06 -0800, Bob Tellefsen wrote: >Jim >Can you test your system into a dummy load instead of an antenna? >This would help determine whether it is truly rf feedback from the antenna >into the rig. Good question, and yes, I did that test yesterday to try to eliminate the antenna system and the tuner from the list of possible causes. The K2/100 and Titan seem quite stable into the dummy load. Jim ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Spur on 160m ?
Interesting, interesting... I had a similar problem on 80 CW only : my note was T8 and garbling. I used a K2/100 and a SB220-PA. I attributed this behaviour to the weakness of the 220 V supply (engine driven generator). By why only on 80 ? More on this subject ? Luc/F6HJO/HB9ABB - Original Message - From: "Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: ; "Ron ZL1TW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 6:36 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Spur on 160m ? > During a recent 80m QSO with Ron, ZL1TW, he reported that I had some > kind of FM-ing on 80m cw. > Did some fooling-around yesterday & found the problem only existed on > 80m & only on powers of 80w or more. It was VERY noticeable on a second > Rx & I was surprised nobody had mentioned it before - however, it was a > kind of revenge for Ron, as it was me who told him about the problem on > his K2 a few weeks ago. > Anyway, I installed a 12pF capacitor from the junction of D12/D14 to > ground, on the KPA-100 & all now seems clean. Not sure if the problem > had always existed with my unit, or whether it appeared 'along the > way'. This quick & easy mod DOES work though, but it would be good to > get some official Elecraft comments! > 73 to all de Mike, zl1mh > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan
On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 12:07:06 -0800 (PST), Lee Buller wrote: >I think you have way to much RF in the shack if there is no trouble with the >system when you have a dummy load hooked up. Yes, I do have a lot of RF in the shack -- note the description of the antenna. It's essentially an end-fed wire that works against "ground," so it MUST put a lot of RF in the shack if it is going to work. In my case, "ground" consists of five driven rods, a dozen radials of various lengths, and a big wrought iron fence (roughly 135 linear feet) that runs around the front of my city lot. All of this is bonded together on a big bus bar a 6" below the operating desk, and bonded to each radio, the amp, and the antenna tuner with 1" wide tinned copper braid. But radio gear should reject that RF if it is built properly. When radio gear has a problem with "RF in the shack," a common cause is what in the pro audio world we call a "pin 1 problem," which is a mis-termination of the shields of input and output cables. A shield SHOULD go straight to the chassis of a radio (like a BNC or SO239 mounted to the chassis). Unfortunately, several decades ago it became standard practice to cut corners by mounting connectors to the printed circuit board and connecting the circuit board to the chassis with mounting screws. This is "the pin 1 problem." Why is this construction a problem? Simple. RF current flows on that cable (you call it a mic cable, but mother nature knows that it's an antenna). That RF current flows along circuit board traces to get to the chassis and to "ground" or whatever completes its return path. Those circuit board traces have inductance, so there will be an IZ drop across it due to the current flow. And that RF will get impressed on various parts of the circuit, depending on where the circuit board layout puts it. The K2 has a pin 1 problem at the mic connector and the headphone connector -- neither of those connector shells touch the chassis if built according to instructions. I suspect that there is also a pin 1 problem at the RS232 connector, but haven't looked at that yet. I've fixed the pin 1 problem at the mic connector. BTW -- lots of ham gear has pin 1 problems, including all the TenTec gear I've looked at. Thanks to those who have responded re: instability in the K2/100 power amp stage. All ideas are appreciated. Jim Brown K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering station
My order arrived yesterday but the soldering station was back ordered. There were items in stock (according to web site) when I ordered mine. By the way the free gift VOM Multimeter (when you order $50 of stuff) is very nice, big digits, nonslip rubber housing, etc. Anthony [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mike and all, Thanks for the heads up, Mike. I'm wondering if anyone has ordered and received the Circuit Specialists soldering stations which looked like Hakko 936's ? If so could they give us a similar report on that unit? At $35.00 it is indeed a tempting buy, but with Mike's post...? Thanks, Tom McCulloch, WB2QDG k2 1103 - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Mike S) Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2004 10:53 pm Subject: [Elecraft] Soldering station (this is a resend to the list, the first was bounced by QTH.net because their postmaster has some brain-dead SMTP spam checking misconfiguration which produces false positives (for the subject line "Circuit Specialists 701 rework station:. Gr.) About a week ago, Tom Hammond pointed out that Circuit Specialists had some soldering stations which looked like Hakko 936's ( http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307 ) for a good price. I noticed that they had a through hole rework station ( http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7789 ) which also looked very similar to a Hakko offering. There has been some conjecture that these are the same as the Hakko units, but are being sold by an OEM to Hakko for considerably less. Since my 20 year old Pace desoldering station recently died, I thought I'd try out one of these, especially since the $200 price was by far better than anything else available. This is about 20% of what a similar Hakko unit runs. I receive my station today, and can report that these are very obviously NOT the same as real Hakko products. They're Chinese clones. As mentioned earlier, these are made by Aoyue ( http://www.aoyue.com/english/index.htm ). From the looks of this unit, I doubt Aoyue OEMs anything to Hakko - some things are close, others are functional, but none are of the same quality. The desoldering handpiece is of decent quality. It appears that it will take Hakko spares, including heaters and tips. It could definitely use a better tip - this one is chrome (?) plated and won't "tin." The soldering pencil has a rubber grip instead of the heat insulating foam a real Hakko has, but is overall of decent quality. Both use multipin "microphone" style circular connectors, which is different than what Hakko uses. The station itself is workable, the electronics seem to do what they're supposed to (they regulate tip temperature and have an LED which lights when power is applied to the tip, so it blinks when the tip is at the set temp). The controls (switches and pots) are pretty cheap, I'll probably upgrade these. They silk screened "Circuit Specialists" on the front, but didn't bother with a Fahrenheit temperature scale. The manufacturer took time to grind the markings off the ICs on the circuit board (they copied Hakko, but don't want to be copied themselves, I guess), and no schematic is provided in the manual. The biggest obvious difference is that it uses a completely different vacuum pump than a real Hakko - meaning no ready source of spare parts. The pump actually works better than that on my old Pace. One strange thing though, is that the instruction manual (in pretty good Engrish [ http://www.engrish.com/ ]) clearly shows how to disassemble and clean a Hakko pump. The actual pump is completely different than that illustrated in the manual. All things considered, it works well. Time will tell how this unit holds up, but it seems to be a good deal. A couple of better quality switches and pots, some real Hakko desoldering tips, and a bit of time should take care of the minor issues. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- |--| Anthony A. Luscre K8ZT Stow, Ohio |--| Visit My Website at http://www.k8zt.com |--| ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber
Re: [Elecraft] CQWW
Hello Happy to see that more and more DX'ers are using the K2 for contest activities here are the results for my CQWW CW participation : 1381 QSO ; 430 multi and 1.038.450 pts; single op all bands with my K2/100 #644 I was able to run some good runs with rate of 100 QSO/hours during 15 minutes; the KPA100 becomes rather warm, but not enough to cook any eggs ... I hope to see some of you during the ARRL 10m contest if Lady Propagation allows ! Chris / F6FTB - Original Message - From: Tony Osman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Elecraft Reflector Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 12:23 AM Subject: [Elecraft] CQWW > Interesting to see all the people operating in CQWW with their K2s. We used > my K2/100 for one of the multi positions at VE3YAA. Worked on 80m and 15m. > Only ran 20w from the K2 but that was enough to drive the Alpha 89 to 1kw > output! > > One day I will try QRP, one day > > 73 de Tony, ve3rz > K2/100 #2864 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100
In my experience the K2 is actually easier to build than most Heathkits - especially the older vacuum tube jobs. Where most people have trouble is in putting the wrong part in the wrong place. Putting in parts oriented wrong (IC's backwards, etc.) and in bad solder joints (cold or missed solder joints). Be especially careful with the toroid leads to be sure they are stripped and tinned up ABOVE where the lead comes out of the PC board so they are actually soldered. You can fill the PC board hole with solder, trapping the lead, but it the enamel isn't gone from that point it doesn't make contact. They have been dubbed "PTTL" for "poorly tinned toroid leads" by kit builder rescuer extraordinaire, Gary Surrency ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). Take your time. Don't hurry. Make it a Zen exercise in deliberate thought, deliberate motion, deliberate acts. Double check your work. When you are done, it'll be as much of a thrill as your first Heathkit - and work a whole lot better! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I just received my new K2/100 with all the bells and whistles. I ordered all the necessary tools to help put it together i.e.: solder station, etc. I haven't built a kit since the days of Heathkit and that was many years ago. If anyone has suggestions, I would appreciate helpful comments. Thanks and 73 de Alan, K6IPM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2_Split_LED file
Greetings I try to download the K2_Split_LED_12.pdf from http://members.cox.net/cwnut/ but it isn't there anymore. can some send me this document? Peter PC2A ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100
Hi Alan, Welcome to the wonderful world of Elecraft! I was glad to demo my K2 for you and you really shouldn't have any serious problems putting it together. As has been mentioned many times, this reflector is a great problem solving resource and Wayne, Eric and Gary are just an email away. Gary has bailed me out of some stupid mistakes several times..there is no better customer service anywhere! Big thing is to take your time, don't rush it and don't work on it when you're tired. And remember I'm near by so if you need help or an on air test, just let me know. 73, Doug W6JD - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 11:11 AM Subject: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100 > I just received my new K2/100 with all the bells and whistles. I ordered > all > the necessary tools to help put it together i.e.: solder station, etc. I > haven't built a kit since the days of Heathkit and that was many years ago. > If anyone has suggestions, I would appreciate helpful comments. Thanks and > 73 de Alan, K6IPM > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100
May I offer a word of advice. Don't get into a Zen like state as you put the caps in etc. Read and check EVERY step. Don't think to yourself "Ok..I'm running .047 caps right now". As per the 2nd step on Pg 2 of the KPA-100 manual Elecraft's insertion order is left to right and front edge to back edge. In the old Heathkit days I had the habit of putting all the same value caps/resistors in at once like an assembly line. That got me burned as I Zenned out doing the cap insertions on Pg 15 of the KPA-100 manual. .1 .1 .1 .1 now .047 .047 .047 now .001 .001 back to .047 .047 .047 .047 .047 [jump to .033] back to .047. Everyone here who put a .047 in C31's positon raise their hand.oops...looks like I may be alone in that. But it goes to show you need to pay attention at every step. Good luck. Its fun to build. Its almost a let down to operate the radio when its finished. I suspect that is why so many guys keep building more for others. The building is addicting. 73 de Tom K2TA - Original Message - From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 4:04 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100 In my experience the K2 is actually easier to build than most Heathkits - especially the older vacuum tube jobs. Where most people have trouble is in putting the wrong part in the wrong place. Putting in parts oriented wrong (IC's backwards, etc.) and in bad solder joints (cold or missed solder joints). Be especially careful with the toroid leads to be sure they are stripped and tinned up ABOVE where the lead comes out of the PC board so they are actually soldered. You can fill the PC board hole with solder, trapping the lead, but it the enamel isn't gone from that point it doesn't make contact. They have been dubbed "PTTL" for "poorly tinned toroid leads" by kit builder rescuer extraordinaire, Gary Surrency ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). Take your time. Don't hurry. Make it a Zen exercise in deliberate thought, deliberate motion, deliberate acts. Double check your work. When you are done, it'll be as much of a thrill as your first Heathkit - and work a whole lot better! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I just received my new K2/100 with all the bells and whistles. I ordered all the necessary tools to help put it together i.e.: solder station, etc. I haven't built a kit since the days of Heathkit and that was many years ago. If anyone has suggestions, I would appreciate helpful comments. Thanks and 73 de Alan, K6IPM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering station
At 09:54 AM 12/2/2004, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote... >I'm wondering if anyone has ordered and received the Circuit Specialists >soldering stations which looked like Hakko 936's ? If so could they give us a >similar report on that unit? > >At $35.00 it is indeed a tempting buy, but with Mike's post...? The 936 clone appears very close to the Hakko 936, they even copied the PC board layout: http://www.flatsurface.com/pics/Hakko-Aoyue936.JPG On the top is the Hakko 936 layout, courtesy Tom Hammond, on the bottom is a picture of the Aoyue station, from their web site. That doesn't, of course, address quality of construction. I don't want anyone to get the wrong impression. At $200 (vs. about $1000 for a real Hakko), the CSI710 rework station is a great deal. The soldering station is a bit less of a deal, since you can get a real Hakko for under $85. I used to use Weller WTCP*, then a Weller labelled Ungar 921ZX, but since Cooper Tools decided to discontinue the Ungar stuff shortly after taking my money for one, no more. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 Spur on 160m
Some months back I posted this problem with my KPA100 (http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2004-05/msg00106.html), and never got any suggestioons which fixed the problem. After a little fiddling I'd figured it was a lack of isolation through the PIN switch in the KPA100 on receive, but then ran out of time / urgency to work any more on it. However - it needed fixing before taking the radio to 5U5Z for CQWW and just at that time I saw the posting from Mike suggesting adding the low value capacitor to shunt the capacitive leakage through the diodes. Worked just fine for me too. Incidently - those of you who worked 5U5Z this weekend past in CQWW CW on 40 - 10m worked another set of K2/100s. We would have had a K2/100 on 80 as well except for a noisy 12V PSU, so one K2 stayed as a spare. The 4 K2s made around 14000 QSOs in that 48 hour period! All the radios equitted themselves really well and it's great that you can fit a competitive 100W station into a carry on size backpack, including the logging computer & a spare set of tubes for one of the amplifiers! Certainly makes dealing with the current excess baggage obsessions of airlines easier! 73, Andy, G4PIQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2_Split_LED file
Before lots of other's send him the file, I just grabbed it from the site Peter referenced and send it to him. No idea why I got access and he didn't... On Dec 2, 2004, at 12:31 PM, Peter wrote: Greetings I try to download the K2_Split_LED_12.pdf from http://members.cox.net/cwnut/ but it isn't there anymore. can some send me this document? Peter PC2A -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2_Split_LED file
As a quick followup, note that the original file is on N0SS' web site at: http://www.n0ss.net/ Look down the page a ways... On Dec 2, 2004, at 12:31 PM, Peter wrote: Greetings I try to download the K2_Split_LED_12.pdf from http://members.cox.net/cwnut/ but it isn't there anymore. can some send me this document? Peter PC2A -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2-5U5Z
5U5Z Thanks of 6band qso with 9A1P! At least half of qso's were K2/K2 S55M-Adi ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100
Tom is correct on checking everything as you go. Even after building many K2s, I still do it the same way - I sort the components and place them in order for easy 'part picking' (I use the corrugated cardboard edge of a slit USPS shipping box). Then as I insert each part, I read its value. This gives me 2 checks; 1) I selected from the proper component location, and 2) I have verified the value on the part I have in my hand. Yes, I even do this with the resistors even though they are correctly mounted in insertion order on the strip - I did find an incorrect value in one kit I built (but only one incorrect out of approximately 800 resistors - pretty good quality control there at Elecraft). Unsoldered component leads are another frequent cause of failure. There are folks who choose to put in one component, solder it and go on to the next, but I stuff components in groups (sometimes large groups), and almost never miss soldering a component - I achieve that by following my own rule 'NEVER TRIM AN UNSOLDERED CONNECTION' I do a thorough inspection of each solder joint at the same time I am trimming its lead. If I spot one unsoldered, I finish trimming the others and go back to solder any that are still sticking above the board. If a component (like ICs) have short legs, I put one in and solder it (one at a time). These are the 'rules' I have developed for myself, and they work for me, but I do suggest that any builder develop his own method of 'orderliness' to help prevent construction errors. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - May I offer a word of advice. Don't get into a Zen like state as you put the caps in etc. Read and check EVERY step. Don't think to yourself "Ok..I'm running .047 caps right now". ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2_Split_LED file
Peter, There are two versions available on Tom Hammond, N0SS's web site: http://www.n0ss.net/index.html#K2 Tim Raymer 73 de KA0OUV K2#1383 At 14:31 12/02/2004, Peter wrote: Greetings I try to download the K2_Split_LED_12.pdf from http://members.cox.net/cwnut/ but it isn't there anymore. can some send me this document? Peter PC2A ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Timothy A. Raymer Missouri Department of Health and Senior Services ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100
On Thu, 2004-02-12 at 11:16 -0800, Bob Tellefsen wrote: > Take an old cardboard box, around the size your K2 came in. > Cut it horizontally so that all the ends of the little corrugations > are exposed. > Now, when you are inventorying and building, you can place your parts > where they are visible, and grouped together. I use old cardboard egg cartons with the top cut off. -- 73, Brian VE7NGR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] k2 4533 build
hello wonder if any one can advise have just come up to page 61 elecraft manual vco alignment sarted off ok was able to get 6 volt on 80 mtrs at 4000 then the metre shot up to 8 volt moving the vfo dial slightly restores to the set volts moving the vfo dial again slightly it shoots up to 8 volts same on all bands when the metre is at 8 volts there is no adjustment posible at l 30 same on all bands all caps are correct value been over all relevant soldering again not sure if it is posible to test varicap diodes dont want to start removing them dont have replacements if the volts is set to the correct value and left without moving any thingit stays at that value thanks all tom g0lne ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com