[Elecraft] K2 - Clean +5V for mic pre-amp

2004-12-02 Thread Stewart Baker
I gave up using the 5A rail that supplies the Microphone jumper and Microphone 
socket for a preamp either internal or external - too much electrical noise, 
and 
adverse effects on MCU operation etc.

Via Pin7 of P1 on the Front panel board I  connected the 8A rail to the input 
of 
a small 3 terminal 5V regulator (78L05) which is mounted on the Front panel 
board. The regulator output has a 47uF and a 0.1uF capacitor to decouple it.
I disconnected the 5A supply  feed  to the Microphone jumper, and connected it 
to the new +5V supply.

End result I can draw what current I need (within reason), there is NO noise, 
and no possibility of upsetting the K2 firmware with loading or RF feedback.

73
Stewart G3RXQ

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[Elecraft] K2 Anti-VOX

2004-12-02 Thread Stewart Baker
I have made a small change to my K2 Anti-VOX project.

The project can be found at http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~baker/

73
Stewart G3RXQ

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[Elecraft] K2 Scratchy received audio

2004-12-02 Thread Stewart Baker
OK,  here's a small problem with a simple solution..

Symptom:-  Received audio sounding scratchy, suspected loudspeaker.

Problem:-   Bad contact. The plating (Tin ?) had worn through on loudspeaker 
connector female crimp pins. 

Does anyone remove their K2 top cover more than me ?

Solution:-Replaced the worn female crimp pins with new ones.

I will now look for a replacement plug and socket with gold flashing.

73
Stewart G3RXQ





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[Elecraft] Re: SV: VOX and ANTIVOX

2004-12-02 Thread Stewart Baker
On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 12:13:23 +0100, rolf heidenborg wrote:
> Ok Stewart,
> During active antivoxtime you have no chance to override the
> outcoming sound .
> Only chance to get in is to reduce the af or wait until it has
> been quiet longer
> than the delaytime.
> There one may perhaps like some kind of overide if you like to
> get in and there you
> have to use your ptt-button if it seems urgent if can not wait or
> there is a long
> local qrm on, which make you unable or the other end unable to
> know what is going on.
> I do not see any flaw in this.

>> OK, Rolf
>> I now see where your coming from.
>> The Anti-VOX level on any transceiver should not be set too high.
>> If it is then you will get the problem you describe, that is you must wait
>> until the incoming sound from the loudspeaker stops before you can
>> get enough of your voice through to trigger the VOX.

>> If the Anti-VOX level is set correctly then it will just be enough to stop
>> your transceiver from going to tx-mode when the other guy speaks, but
>> your voice can override at any time.

>> The way I adjust things here are:-
>> a) Set the microphone gain pot (if there is one) to get the correct level
>> into the rig. On the K2 this may mean playing around with different
>> microphones. You should be reasonably close to the microphone say
>> 10-30cm away to keep the background noise to a minimum.
>>b) Tune in a strong SSB signal and turn the AF gain for normal listening
>> volume out of the loudspeaker.
>>c) Turn your power level to the minimum (in case you transmit).
>>d) If you have Anti-VOX turn the Anti-VOX gain to a minimum.
>>e) Switch the VOX on.
>>f) Slowly increase the Anti-VOX gain until the incoming audio no longer trips 
>> your TX.  If you find that any AF gain setting/strong signal trips your TX, 
>> then SLIGHTLY increase the Anti-VOX gain.

>> It is like a lot of things in Amateur Radio it needs practice, but you get
 >> better with practice.

>> Hope this helps. Anti-VOX really does work !

>>73
>>Stewart G3RXQ

> 73
> Rolf SM0CLS



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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 burn-in

2004-12-02 Thread VR2BrettGraham

K2TA asked:

Has anyone really hammered their K2/100 with high CQ or QSO rates for a 24 
hour period without a secondary fan?   I'd be curious how it held up and 
were you successful in cooking eggs on it?   It might make a good George 
Forman portable contest grill.


http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-07/msg00508.html

73, VR2BrettGraham

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[Elecraft] CW "key clicks"

2004-12-02 Thread Nanko
Still having a distorted CW signal from my K2.
I installed the FWK2MCIO upgrade,hoping the problem would be solved.
The distorsion sounds like the russian woodpecker in the 80's
And is present on the begin of every character.
Turning the power pot has influence,"clicks" are loudest on low power, and
(almost)gone at maximum output 
I also noticed a second carrier on low power, 1 KC apart from the CW carrier
When I increase power this carrier dissapears suddenly(not checked on 28 MHz)
I am using the K2 as IF for a 144 MHz DEM transverter.
VRFDET is a rectified RF output signal, appr.3V,taken from the output 
connector,and
connected to the RF connection (near the K2  VRFDET rectifier diode)
Power regulation works fine on a dummy load,but unpredictable when connected
to the driver amplifier(SWR is < 1.5 )
I checked also the 28 MHz IF signal , with transverter switched off, signal 
sounds
the same as on 144 MHz.
I changed the control board with PA2DW , no difference.
RF drive and bias voltage to the 10 Watt K2 amp is interrupted.
Something wrong in this setup or problem in K2 ???
Nanko  PA0V
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[Elecraft] Ham Featured in NYTimes today

2004-12-02 Thread Brian Wruble
Hi all:  There is a terrific article about Ken Schaffer, N2KS on page G1
(front page of "Circuits" section) of today's "New York Times".  I don't
know him, but the article mentioned that he was a ham.  I did the search and
found him.  He is a successful inventor, located here on Manhattan's Upper
West Side, and he has developed a product called "TV2ME" which provides
internet access to broadcast TV in an ingenious way.

Here is his website:  http://home.nutscape.org


73 de Brian W3BW


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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering station

2004-12-02 Thread redmen1969
Mike and all,

 Thanks for the heads up, Mike.  I'm wondering if anyone has ordered and 
received the Circuit Specialists soldering stations which looked like Hakko 
936's ?  If so could they give us a similar report on that unit?  

At $35.00 it is indeed a tempting buy, but with Mike's post...?

Thanks,
Tom McCulloch, WB2QDG
k2 1103

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Mike S)
Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2004 10:53 pm
Subject: [Elecraft] Soldering station

> (this is a resend to the list, the first was bounced by QTH.net 
> because their postmaster has some brain-dead SMTP spam checking 
> misconfiguration which produces false positives (for the subject 
> line "Circuit Specialists 701 rework station:. Gr.)
> 
> About a week ago, Tom Hammond pointed out that Circuit Specialists 
> had some soldering stations which looked like Hakko 936's ( 
> http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307 ) for a 
> good price. I noticed that they had a through hole rework station 
> ( http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7789 ) which 
> also looked very similar to a Hakko offering. There has been some 
> conjecture that these are the same as the Hakko units, but are 
> being sold by an OEM to Hakko for considerably less.
> 
> Since my 20 year old Pace desoldering station recently died, I 
> thought I'd try out one of these, especially since the $200 price 
> was by far better than anything else available. This is about 20% 
> of what a similar Hakko unit runs.
> 
> I receive my station today, and can report that these are very 
> obviously NOT the same as real Hakko products. They're Chinese 
> clones. As mentioned earlier, these are made by Aoyue ( 
> http://www.aoyue.com/english/index.htm ). From the looks of this 
> unit, I doubt Aoyue OEMs anything to Hakko - some things are 
> close, others are functional, but none are of the same quality.
> 
> The desoldering handpiece is of decent quality. It appears that it 
> will take Hakko spares, including heaters and tips. It could 
> definitely use a better tip - this one is chrome (?) plated and 
> won't "tin." The soldering pencil has a rubber grip instead of the 
> heat insulating foam a real Hakko has, but is overall of decent 
> quality. Both use multipin "microphone" style circular connectors, 
> which is different than what Hakko uses.
> 
> The station itself is workable, the electronics seem to do what 
> they're supposed to (they regulate tip temperature and have an LED 
> which lights when power is applied to the tip, so it blinks when 
> the tip is at the set temp). The controls (switches and pots) are 
> pretty cheap, I'll probably upgrade these. They silk screened 
> "Circuit Specialists" on the front, but didn't bother with a 
> Fahrenheit temperature scale. The manufacturer took time to grind 
> the markings off the ICs on the circuit board (they copied Hakko, 
> but don't want to be copied themselves, I guess), and no schematic 
> is provided in the manual.
> 
> The biggest obvious difference is that it uses a completely 
> different vacuum pump than a real Hakko - meaning no ready source 
> of spare parts. The pump  actually works better than that on my 
> old Pace. One strange thing though, is that the instruction manual 
> (in pretty good Engrish [ http://www.engrish.com/ ]) clearly shows 
> how to disassemble and clean a Hakko pump. The actual pump is 
> completely different than that illustrated in the manual.
> 
> All things considered, it works well. Time will tell how this unit 
> holds up, but it seems to be a good deal. A couple of better 
> quality switches and pots, some real Hakko desoldering tips, and a 
> bit of time should take care of the minor issues. 
> 
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> 

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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar - Dec 2004

2004-12-02 Thread Ken Newman


~~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
December 2004
~~
40 METER FOXHUNT - Every Friday 0200z to 0359z
(Thurs 9 PM to 11 PM EST)
Info: http://www.cqc.org/fox/index.htm

Truffle Hunt  - 30 min before Fox Hunt
Info: http://fpqrp.com/winter_hunt.html
~~
QRP ARCI Topband CW & SSB Sprint *** QRP CONTEST ***
Dec 2, z to 0600z
Rules: http://2hams.net/ARCI/index.htm
~~
ARRL 160 meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 3, 2200z to Dec 5, 1600z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html
~~
TARA RTTY Mêlée ... 150W category
Dec 4, z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.n2ty.org/seasons/tara_melee_rules.html
~~
Wake-Up! QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 04, 0400z to 0600z
Rules: http://ruqrp.narod.ru/index_e.html
~~
TOPS Activity 80 Meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 4, 1800z to Dec 5, 1800z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/topsac.htm
~~
QRP ARCI Holiday Spirits Homebrew Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 5, 2000z to 2400z
Rules: http://2hams.net/ARCI/index.htm
~~
Adventure Radio Society - Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 7, 0200z to 0400z  (First Monday 9 PM EST)
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/
~~
ARRL 10 Meter Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Dec 11, z to Dec 12, 2400z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html
~~
The Great Colorado Snowshoe Run (40 Mtr CW)... QRP Category
Dec 11, 0200z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.cqc.org/contests/
~~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST! ***
Dec 13, 0100z to 0300z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com/fpqrprun.html
~~
AGB (Belarus) Party Contest (CW/SSB) (80m)... QRP Category
Dec 17, 2100z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/agbpc.htm
~~
MDXA PSK-31 DeathMatch  ... QRP Category
Dec 18, z to Dec 19, 2400z
Rules: http://www.mdxa1.org/deathmatch.html
~~
RAC Canada Winter Contest (All) ... QRP Category
Dec 18, z to  2359z
Rules: http://www.rac.ca/opsinfo/infocont.htm
See http://www.qrp-canada.com/ for more awards from QRP-Canada
~~
Croatian CW Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 18, 1400z to Dec 19, 1400z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/9acwc.htm
~~
Stew Perry (W1BB) Topband Distance Challenge (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 18, 1500z to Dec 19, 1500z
Rules: http://web.jzap.com/k7rat/stew.html
~~
EA-QRP SSB Contest *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 18, 1700z to 2000z (10m-15m-20m)
Dec 18, 2000z to 2300z (80m)
Dec 19, 0700z to 1000z (40m)
Dec 19, 1000z to 1300z (10m-15m-20m)
Rules: http://www.eaqrp.com/concurso/concurso-SSB_en.htm
~~
R A E M Contest .. Low Power category
Dec 26, 0200z to 0959x
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/raem.htm
~~
?Holiday Milliwatt CW Contest *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 28, 1800 to 0200 z
Dec 29, 1800 to 0200 z
Dec 30, 1800 to 0200 z
?Rules: http://www.hornucopia.com/contestcal/holidaymw.txt
~~~
QRP BARBERSHOP QUARTET CONTEST (CW QRP)... QRP Contest!
Dec 29, 2100 EST to 0300 EST
Rules: http://www.io.com/~n5fc/barbershop_contest.htm
~~~
Original QRP Contest (CW - 80, 40 & 20m) ... QRP Category
Jan 1, 1500z to Jan 2, 1500z
Rules: http://www.qrpcc.de/contestrules/oqrpr.html
~~~
Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL), WB3AAL and others
for assistance in compiling this calendar.

Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
we will post it and give it more publicity.
Anyone may use this "N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar" for your website,
newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose.
(Include a credit to the source of this material of course.)
72 de
Ken Newman - N2CQ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

http://www.amqrp.org/contesting/contesting.html
http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm


__

Re: [Elecraft] zero beat detector with KX1?

2004-12-02 Thread Michael Babineau

 "Leigh L Klotz, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote :

>1. Tune for loudest signal
>This, coupled with a bit of pitch recognition, is what most hams do.  
It

>is pretty easy and works unless your KX1 variable crystal filter is set
>too tightly, say below 500 Hz, in which case the maximum volume point
>shifts a bit and you need to use RIT to get it back to the filter
>center.

This is the technique that I use and it works well if you set the
variable filter to about 500 hz, no less.

Leigh is correct that if you tighten the filter down too tight
the passband center tends to shift down and this no longer
works (route the audio output of the rig through Spectogram
and you can clearly see this).

I have found with a bit of practice I can nail the zerobeat
right on almost everytime using this technique.

Michael VE3WMB

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[Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan

2004-12-02 Thread Jim Brown
I've recently been using a K2/100 to drive a Ten Tec Titan as a CW contest rig. 
I only 
need about 25 watts drive to get 800 watts or more out of the Titan on most 
bands. 

On 160 (and maybe on 80), the K2/100 goes into some sort of unstable condition 
that 
causes it to overdrive the power amp and create a pretty strong second harmonic 
(a 
ham from Wisconsin emailed me to alert me to it, and said I was about S6).  
Some 
testing has isolated it to the K2, thanks to a hint from Bill, NY9H. The Titan 
is clean as a 
whistle driven to full power with my TS850 into the same antenna.  

I'm also seeing some hint of this when operating on 80, and need to investigate 
it 
further.  I really want to fix this -- the K2 is my favorite CW contesting rig, 
and I really 
need its DSP to fight my local noise on 160. 

Some troubleshooting thoughts. 

1) On 160, my only antenna is an 80/40 trap that I must load as a long wire 
against a 
radial system (I'm on a city lot, and that's the best I can do). This puts lots 
of RF in the 
shack.  I suspect this may be related, but maybe not. I also often load the 
antenna this 
way on 80. 

2) As I increase the drive from the K2/100, I hear instability as the control 
system shifts 
from the barefoot K2 to kick in the K2/100 amp.  I can also listen to the 
harmonic on the 
850 and hear it increase from barely audible (with no antenna) to quite strong 
when the 
rig goes unstable. 

3) The K2/100 runs about as warm at 25 watts as it does at 100 watts. 

4) There are times that the instability in the K2/100 will cause the overdrive 
light in the 
Titan to come on, indicating more than 120 mA of grid current, even though the 
stable 
tuning was more like 10 mA or less. This is clearly coming out of the K2/100. 
This 
instability is happening with roughly 20-25 watts of drive from the K2/100 and 
500 watts 
out of the Titan. The Titan is working into a big Ten Tec tuner, and a VSWR 
that is 1:1. I 
recently replaced all the fixed caps in the tuner with 6 kV parts.  

5) I have observed some pin 1 problems in the K2, and have fixed one of them 
(at the 
mic connector). Maybe I need to fix the one at the headphone connector too. 

Any thoughts or experiences with any of this from the group?


Jim Brown  K9YC


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[Elecraft] QRP CW Contest Monday

2004-12-02 Thread W0rw
Here is a good way for you to try operating your KX1 as a Pedestrian Mobile.

The December Spartan Sprint will be held on December 6, 2004, (which is 

 It's two hours of fun as you contact other QRP CW stations on 80, 40, 20, 
15, and/or 10 meters. (7040 and14060 are the best frequencies for pedestrian 
mobile operation)..


The contest starts at 9 pm EST, 8 pm CST, 7 pm MST, and 6 pm PST and runs for

two hours.   That's 0200-0400 UTC.  The contest is Monday night, even though 
the

UTC is Tuesday morning.


The Spartan Sprint exchange is RST - State - Power (e.g. 559 MI 5W).


Contest details and rules are at

www.arsqrp.com/ars/pages/spartan_sprints/ss_rules_new.html

...There is special recognition for those who operate outdoors.  If you

operate outdoors, please note it in your Soapbox comments after the contest.


After the contest report your summary and score at the autolog at

www.ARSqrp.com/ars/ss_log.html
(You don't need to submit a log to have fun.)


In your Soapbox comments after the contest, start by listing your radio and

antenna.  
via  w0rw
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[Elecraft] Static - a true story

2004-12-02 Thread Dave G.
I was working with a large scale scientific computer in a 
temperature and humidity controlled environment (68F 
and 50%H).
We were encountering quasi random errors which were 
(eventually) traced to coincide with console operations 
with a particular operator. There were no input errors on 
the key strokes!!
We called in the local University's research department 
to try to help us. 
Even though we had anti-static mats, grounding tabs, 
and we were using carpets with a copper strand content, 
it was found that this particular operator would carry a 
charge of ~18KV when walking from the tape drives to 
the console. Big "zap" on the keyboard, microsecond 
duration...
Long story made short -- The operator (female - no bias 
intended) was requested to refrain from wearing 
nylon/polyester clothing, she agreed and the problem 
was solved.
Moral: If you are nor going to take anti-static 
precautions, then sit *very* still in your chair and don't 
shuffle your feet !!

Dave
 

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Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan

2004-12-02 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Jim
Can you test your system into a dummy load instead of an antenna?
This would help determine whether it is truly rf feedback from the antenna
into the rig.
73, Bob N6WG
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[Elecraft] KPA100 Spur on 160m ?

2004-12-02 Thread Mike

During a recent 80m QSO with Ron, ZL1TW, he reported that I had some
kind of FM-ing on 80m cw.
Did some fooling-around yesterday & found the problem only existed on
80m & only on powers of 80w or more. It was VERY noticeable on a second
Rx & I was surprised nobody had mentioned it before - however, it was a
kind of revenge for Ron, as it was me who told him about the problem on
his K2 a few weeks ago.
Anyway, I installed a 12pF capacitor from the junction of D12/D14 to
ground, on the KPA-100 & all now seems clean. Not sure if the problem
had always existed with my unit, or whether it appeared 'along the
way'. This quick & easy mod DOES work though, but it would be good to
get some official Elecraft comments!
73 to all de Mike, zl1mh


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Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan

2004-12-02 Thread Lee Buller
For what its worth,
 
You might try to choke all cables connected to the K2.  Sounds like RF is 
getting is somewhere.  You might have such a high RF field in your shack 
because of your antenna system that it might be impossible to cure on the short 
term  Choking all the cables might be a start.  I use RG174 for all keying 
lines and such.  You might want to choke your headphones as well.  I have had 
trouble in this area too until I got a more resonate antenna installed on my 
city lot.  It is a true inverted-L...around 130 foot long.  You can use an UNUN 
to get to the right feed point impedance or use a tuning cap/inductor 
arraingement.  With your Titan (goood amp) the components would have to be 
pretty healthy.  As for the second harmonic, I was in a 160 meter contest 
several years ago where a guy came on and said we were 20 of S9 on 80 meters.  
We were into a 1/4 wave verticle on 160 with a very good match.  I think that 
sometimes RXs are pretty good that --46 to -55 db down is not enough.  He
 ck, what
 do I know though?  These are just random thoughts. I've had a neighbor compain 
that when she was curling her hair with a curling iron (coil of hot wire) that 
she could hear me in her hearing aid!  
 
Lee - K0WA
 
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 7, Issue 31

2004-12-02 Thread Wingkeel
Elecraft K2 for sale with the following options:
Serial Number: 04275
KIO2 – Aux I/O Module
KNB2 – Noise Blanker
KBT2 – Internal Battery Option
KAF2 – Audio Filter and Real Time Clock
KAT2 – Automatic Antenna Tuner
$1275 for all of it including shipping within the US
Reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I put this beauty together about six months ago and have had a ball with it.  
Unfortunately, I find that I only use two bands and now want to build the 
KX-1.  I have used it from my home with a longwire, from a hotel room with an 
inverted-V and from a ship with a whip.  In all cases, I have made many 
enjoyable 
CW contacts.  All manuals come with it.

 Terry Southern - KC0QZX
 
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[Elecraft] New Build K2/100

2004-12-02 Thread alanchilds
I just received my new K2/100 with all the bells and whistles.  I ordered 
all

the necessary tools to help put it together i.e.: solder station, etc.  I
haven't built a kit since the days of Heathkit and that was many years ago.
If anyone has suggestions, I would appreciate helpful comments.  Thanks and
73 de Alan, K6IPM

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Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100

2004-12-02 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Congratulations, Alan.  You're in for a fun journey through the building
of your K2.

One suggestion that many of us have used is this.
Take an old cardboard box, around the size your K2 came in.
Cut it horizontally so that all the ends of the little corrugations are
exposed.
Now, when you are inventorying and building, you can place your parts
where they are visible, and grouped together.  Say you have 10 .01uF disk
caps.  Place them side by side with one lead in the corrugation holes.  Now
as you need one you can just reach out for it and its there.  Plus, you can
quickly see how many reamin, and whether this agrees with the inventory.

Good luck and ask questions whenever you need to.
73, Bob N6WG

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[Elecraft] K160RX Hi Current

2004-12-02 Thread Andy Bullington
I just installed the 160 meter/rx antenna option and everything seems to be 
working fine...EXCEPT...when I try to tune on 160 I get first the Hi Current 
notice then
.1  1.0-1nothing out. I've got a K2/100 connected to an Astron 30 amp 
power supply so I'm sure there's plenty of voltage. I can't peak L3 and L4 . 
Receive on 160 is gang busters and everything is completely normal on all 
other bands. the new receive jack works flawlessly. I'm stumped.  Thanks!
   Andy W1AWB 



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Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan

2004-12-02 Thread Jim Brown
On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 09:17:06 -0800, Bob Tellefsen wrote:

>Jim
>Can you test your system into a dummy load instead of an antenna?
>This would help determine whether it is truly rf feedback from the antenna
>into the rig.

Good question, and yes, I did that test yesterday to try to eliminate the 
antenna 
system and the tuner from the list of possible causes. The K2/100 and Titan 
seem quite stable into the dummy load. 

Jim


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Spur on 160m ?

2004-12-02 Thread Luc Favre
Interesting, interesting...
I had a similar problem on 80 CW only : my note was T8 and garbling. I used
a K2/100 and a SB220-PA. I attributed this behaviour to the weakness of the
220 V supply (engine driven generator). By why only on 80 ?
More on this subject ?
Luc/F6HJO/HB9ABB

- Original Message - 
From: "Mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ; "Ron ZL1TW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 6:36 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Spur on 160m ?


> During a recent 80m QSO with Ron, ZL1TW, he reported that I had some
> kind of FM-ing on 80m cw.
> Did some fooling-around yesterday & found the problem only existed on
> 80m & only on powers of 80w or more. It was VERY noticeable on a second
> Rx & I was surprised nobody had mentioned it before - however, it was a
> kind of revenge for Ron, as it was me who told him about the problem on
> his K2 a few weeks ago.
> Anyway, I installed a 12pF capacitor from the junction of D12/D14 to
> ground, on the KPA-100 & all now seems clean. Not sure if the problem
> had always existed with my unit, or whether it appeared 'along the
> way'. This quick & easy mod DOES work though, but it would be good to
> get some official Elecraft comments!
> 73 to all de Mike, zl1mh
>
>
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>

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Re: [Elecraft] 160 M Harmonic Problem with K2/100 Driving TenTec Titan

2004-12-02 Thread Jim Brown
On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 12:07:06 -0800 (PST), Lee Buller wrote:

>I think you have way to much RF in the shack if there is no trouble with the
>system when you have a dummy load hooked up. 

Yes, I do have a lot of RF in the shack -- note the description of the antenna. 
It's 
essentially an end-fed wire that works against "ground," so it MUST put a lot 
of RF in 
the shack if it is going to work. In my case, "ground" consists of five driven 
rods, a 
dozen radials of various lengths, and a big wrought iron fence (roughly 135 
linear feet) 
that runs around the front of my city lot. All of this is bonded together on a 
big bus bar a 
6" below the operating desk, and bonded to each radio, the amp, and the antenna 
tuner 
with 1" wide tinned copper braid.  

But radio gear should reject that RF if it is built properly.   When radio gear 
has a 
problem with "RF in the shack," a common cause is what in the pro audio world 
we call 
a "pin 1 problem," which is a mis-termination of the shields of input and 
output cables.  
A shield SHOULD go straight to the chassis of a radio (like a BNC or SO239 
mounted 
to the chassis). Unfortunately, several decades ago it became standard practice 
to cut 
corners by mounting connectors to the printed circuit board and connecting the 
circuit 
board to the chassis with mounting screws. This is "the pin 1 problem."  

Why is this construction a problem?  Simple. RF current flows on that cable 
(you call it a 
mic cable, but mother nature knows that it's an antenna). That RF current flows 
along 
circuit board traces to get to the chassis and to "ground" or whatever 
completes its 
return path. Those circuit board traces have inductance, so there will be an IZ 
drop 
across it due to the current flow. And that RF will get impressed on various 
parts of the 
circuit, depending on where the circuit board layout puts it.  

The K2 has a pin 1 problem at the mic connector and the headphone connector -- 
neither of those connector shells touch the chassis if built according to 
instructions.  I 
suspect that there is also a pin 1 problem at the RS232 connector, but haven't 
looked at 
that yet. I've fixed the pin 1 problem at the mic connector. 

BTW -- lots of ham gear has pin 1 problems, including all the TenTec gear I've 
looked 
at. 

Thanks to those who have responded re: instability in the K2/100 power amp 
stage. All 
ideas are appreciated. 


Jim Brown  K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering station

2004-12-02 Thread Anthony Luscre K8ZT
My order arrived yesterday but the soldering station was back ordered. 
There were items in stock (according to web site) when I ordered mine.
By the way the free gift VOM Multimeter (when you order $50 of stuff) is 
very nice, big digits, nonslip rubber housing, etc.

Anthony


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Mike and all,

Thanks for the heads up, Mike.  I'm wondering if anyone has ordered and received the Circuit Specialists soldering stations which looked like Hakko 936's ?  If so could they give us a similar report on that unit?  


At $35.00 it is indeed a tempting buy, but with Mike's post...?

Thanks,
Tom McCulloch, WB2QDG
k2 1103

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Mike S)
Date: Wednesday, December 1, 2004 10:53 pm
Subject: [Elecraft] Soldering station

 

(this is a resend to the list, the first was bounced by QTH.net 
because their postmaster has some brain-dead SMTP spam checking 
misconfiguration which produces false positives (for the subject 
line "Circuit Specialists 701 rework station:. Gr.)


About a week ago, Tom Hammond pointed out that Circuit Specialists 
had some soldering stations which looked like Hakko 936's ( 
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7307 ) for a 
good price. I noticed that they had a through hole rework station 
( http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7789 ) which 
also looked very similar to a Hakko offering. There has been some 
conjecture that these are the same as the Hakko units, but are 
being sold by an OEM to Hakko for considerably less.


Since my 20 year old Pace desoldering station recently died, I 
thought I'd try out one of these, especially since the $200 price 
was by far better than anything else available. This is about 20% 
of what a similar Hakko unit runs.


I receive my station today, and can report that these are very 
obviously NOT the same as real Hakko products. They're Chinese 
clones. As mentioned earlier, these are made by Aoyue ( 
http://www.aoyue.com/english/index.htm ). From the looks of this 
unit, I doubt Aoyue OEMs anything to Hakko - some things are 
close, others are functional, but none are of the same quality.


The desoldering handpiece is of decent quality. It appears that it 
will take Hakko spares, including heaters and tips. It could 
definitely use a better tip - this one is chrome (?) plated and 
won't "tin." The soldering pencil has a rubber grip instead of the 
heat insulating foam a real Hakko has, but is overall of decent 
quality. Both use multipin "microphone" style circular connectors, 
which is different than what Hakko uses.


The station itself is workable, the electronics seem to do what 
they're supposed to (they regulate tip temperature and have an LED 
which lights when power is applied to the tip, so it blinks when 
the tip is at the set temp). The controls (switches and pots) are 
pretty cheap, I'll probably upgrade these. They silk screened 
"Circuit Specialists" on the front, but didn't bother with a 
Fahrenheit temperature scale. The manufacturer took time to grind 
the markings off the ICs on the circuit board (they copied Hakko, 
but don't want to be copied themselves, I guess), and no schematic 
is provided in the manual.


The biggest obvious difference is that it uses a completely 
different vacuum pump than a real Hakko - meaning no ready source 
of spare parts. The pump  actually works better than that on my 
old Pace. One strange thing though, is that the instruction manual 
(in pretty good Engrish [ http://www.engrish.com/ ]) clearly shows 
how to disassemble and clean a Hakko pump. The actual pump is 
completely different than that illustrated in the manual.


All things considered, it works well. Time will tell how this unit 
holds up, but it seems to be a good deal. A couple of better 
quality switches and pots, some real Hakko desoldering tips, and a 
bit of time should take care of the minor issues. 


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--
|--|
Anthony A. Luscre
   K8ZT  
   Stow, Ohio	  
|--|

   Visit My Website at
 http://www.k8zt.com
|--|


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Re: [Elecraft] CQWW

2004-12-02 Thread C. GONDARD
Hello

Happy to see that more and more DX'ers are using the K2 for contest
activities

here are the results for my CQWW CW participation :
1381 QSO ; 430 multi and 1.038.450 pts; single op all bands

with my K2/100 #644

I was able to run some good runs with rate of 100 QSO/hours during 15
minutes; the KPA100 becomes rather warm, but not enough to cook any eggs ...

I hope to see some of you during the ARRL 10m contest if Lady Propagation
allows !

Chris / F6FTB

- Original Message -
From: Tony Osman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 12:23 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] CQWW


> Interesting to see all the people operating in CQWW with their K2s.  We
used
> my K2/100 for one of the multi positions at VE3YAA.  Worked on 80m and
15m.
> Only ran 20w from the K2 but that was enough to drive the Alpha 89 to 1kw
> output!
>
> One day I will try QRP, one day
>
> 73 de Tony, ve3rz
> K2/100 #2864


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RE: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100

2004-12-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
In my experience the K2 is actually easier to build than most Heathkits -
especially the older vacuum tube jobs.

Where most people have trouble is in putting the wrong part in the wrong
place. Putting in parts oriented wrong (IC's backwards, etc.) and in bad
solder joints (cold or missed solder joints). 

Be especially careful with the toroid leads to be sure they are stripped and
tinned up ABOVE where the lead comes out of the PC board so they are
actually soldered. You can fill the PC board hole with solder, trapping the
lead, but it the enamel isn't gone from that point it doesn't make contact.
They have been dubbed "PTTL" for "poorly tinned toroid leads" by kit builder
rescuer extraordinaire, Gary Surrency ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). 

Take your time. Don't hurry. Make it a Zen exercise in deliberate thought,
deliberate motion, deliberate acts. Double check your work. 

When you are done, it'll be as much of a thrill as your first Heathkit - and
work a whole lot better! 

Ron AC7AC
 

-Original Message-
I just received my new K2/100 with all the bells and whistles.  I ordered 
all
the necessary tools to help put it together i.e.: solder station, etc.  I
haven't built a kit since the days of Heathkit and that was many years ago.
If anyone has suggestions, I would appreciate helpful comments.  Thanks and
73 de Alan, K6IPM


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[Elecraft] K2_Split_LED file

2004-12-02 Thread Peter
Greetings

I try to download  the K2_Split_LED_12.pdf from http://members.cox.net/cwnut/ 
but it isn't
there anymore.
can some send me this document?

Peter
PC2A



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Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100

2004-12-02 Thread Douglas Westover
Hi Alan,

Welcome to the wonderful world of Elecraft! I was glad to demo
my K2 for you and you really shouldn't have any serious problems
putting it together. As has been mentioned many times, this reflector
is a great problem solving resource and Wayne, Eric and Gary are
just an email away. Gary has bailed me out of some stupid mistakes
several times..there is no better customer service anywhere!

Big thing is to take your time, don't rush it and don't work on it when
you're tired. And remember I'm near by so if you need help or an
on air test, just let me know.

73,
Doug
W6JD

- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 11:11 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100


> I just received my new K2/100 with all the bells and whistles.  I ordered
> all
> the necessary tools to help put it together i.e.: solder station, etc.  I
> haven't built a kit since the days of Heathkit and that was many years
ago.
> If anyone has suggestions, I would appreciate helpful comments.  Thanks
and
> 73 de Alan, K6IPM
>
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Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100

2004-12-02 Thread Tom Althoff
May I offer a word of advice.  Don't get into a Zen like state as you put
the caps in etc.   Read and check EVERY step.   Don't think to yourself
"Ok..I'm running .047 caps right now".

As per the 2nd step on Pg 2 of the KPA-100 manual Elecraft's insertion order
is  left to right and front edge to back edge.   In the old Heathkit days I
had the habit of putting all the same value caps/resistors in at once like
an assembly line.   That got me burned as I Zenned out doing the cap
insertions on Pg 15 of the KPA-100 manual.

.1 .1 .1 .1 now .047 .047 .047 now .001 .001 back to .047 .047 .047 .047
.047 [jump to .033] back to .047.

Everyone here who put a .047 in C31's positon raise their
hand.oops...looks like I may be alone in that.  But it goes to show you
need to pay attention at every step.

Good luck.   Its fun to build.   Its almost a let down to operate the radio
when its finished.   I suspect that is why so many guys keep building more
for others.   The building is addicting.

73 de Tom K2TA




- Original Message - 
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, December 02, 2004 4:04 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100


In my experience the K2 is actually easier to build than most Heathkits -
especially the older vacuum tube jobs.

Where most people have trouble is in putting the wrong part in the wrong
place. Putting in parts oriented wrong (IC's backwards, etc.) and in bad
solder joints (cold or missed solder joints).

Be especially careful with the toroid leads to be sure they are stripped and
tinned up ABOVE where the lead comes out of the PC board so they are
actually soldered. You can fill the PC board hole with solder, trapping the
lead, but it the enamel isn't gone from that point it doesn't make contact.
They have been dubbed "PTTL" for "poorly tinned toroid leads" by kit builder
rescuer extraordinaire, Gary Surrency ([EMAIL PROTECTED]).

Take your time. Don't hurry. Make it a Zen exercise in deliberate thought,
deliberate motion, deliberate acts. Double check your work.

When you are done, it'll be as much of a thrill as your first Heathkit - and
work a whole lot better!

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
I just received my new K2/100 with all the bells and whistles.  I ordered
all
the necessary tools to help put it together i.e.: solder station, etc.  I
haven't built a kit since the days of Heathkit and that was many years ago.
If anyone has suggestions, I would appreciate helpful comments.  Thanks and
73 de Alan, K6IPM


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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering station

2004-12-02 Thread Mike S
At 09:54 AM 12/2/2004, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...
>I'm wondering if anyone has ordered and received the Circuit Specialists 
>soldering stations which looked like Hakko 936's ?  If so could they give us a 
>similar report on that unit?  
>
>At $35.00 it is indeed a tempting buy, but with Mike's post...?

The 936 clone appears very close to the Hakko 936, they even copied the PC 
board layout: http://www.flatsurface.com/pics/Hakko-Aoyue936.JPG On the top is 
the Hakko 936 layout, courtesy Tom Hammond, on the bottom is a picture of the 
Aoyue station, from their web site. That doesn't, of course, address quality of 
construction.

I don't want anyone to get the wrong impression. At $200 (vs. about $1000 for a 
real Hakko), the CSI710 rework station is a great deal. The soldering station 
is a bit less of a deal, since you can get a real Hakko for under $85. I used 
to use Weller WTCP*, then a Weller labelled Ungar 921ZX, but since Cooper Tools 
decided to discontinue the Ungar stuff shortly after taking my money for one, 
no more. 


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[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 Spur on 160m

2004-12-02 Thread Andy Cook, G4PIQ
Some months back I posted this problem with my KPA100
(http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2004-05/msg00106.html),
and never got any suggestioons which fixed the problem.

After a little fiddling I'd figured it was a lack of isolation through the
PIN switch in the KPA100 on receive, but then ran out of time / urgency to
work any more on it. However - it needed fixing before taking the radio to
5U5Z for CQWW and just at that time I saw the posting from Mike suggesting
adding the low value capacitor to shunt the capacitive leakage through the
diodes. Worked just fine for me too.

Incidently - those of you who worked 5U5Z this weekend past in CQWW CW on
40 - 10m worked another set of  K2/100s. We would have had a K2/100 on 80 as
well except for a noisy 12V PSU, so one K2 stayed as a spare. The 4 K2s made
around 14000 QSOs in that 48 hour period!

All the radios equitted themselves really well and it's great that you can
fit a competitive 100W station into a carry on size backpack, including the
logging computer & a spare set of tubes for one of the amplifiers! Certainly
makes dealing with the current excess baggage obsessions of airlines easier!

73,

Andy, G4PIQ

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Re: [Elecraft] K2_Split_LED file

2004-12-02 Thread Jack Brindle
Before lots of other's send him the file, I just grabbed it from the 
site Peter referenced and send it to him. No idea why I got access and 
he didn't...


On Dec 2, 2004, at 12:31 PM, Peter wrote:


Greetings

I try to download  the K2_Split_LED_12.pdf from 
http://members.cox.net/cwnut/ but it isn't

there anymore.
can some send me this document?

Peter
PC2A


-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===

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Re: [Elecraft] K2_Split_LED file

2004-12-02 Thread Jack Brindle
As a quick followup, note that the original file is on N0SS' web site 
at:

http://www.n0ss.net/
Look down the page a ways...

On Dec 2, 2004, at 12:31 PM, Peter wrote:


Greetings

I try to download  the K2_Split_LED_12.pdf from 
http://members.cox.net/cwnut/ but it isn't

there anymore.
can some send me this document?

Peter
PC2A


-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===

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[Elecraft] K2-5U5Z

2004-12-02 Thread S55M
5U5Z
Thanks of 6band qso with 9A1P!
At least half of qso's were K2/K2

S55M-Adi
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Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100

2004-12-02 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Tom is correct on checking everything as you go.  Even after building many 
K2s, I still do it the same way - I sort the components and place them in 
order for easy 'part picking' (I use the corrugated cardboard edge of a slit 
USPS shipping box).  Then as I insert each part, I read its value.  This 
gives me 2 checks; 1) I selected from the proper component location, and 2) 
I have verified the value on the part I have in my hand.  Yes, I even do 
this with the resistors even though they are correctly mounted in insertion 
order on the strip - I did find an incorrect value in one kit I built (but 
only one incorrect out of approximately 800 resistors - pretty good quality 
control there at Elecraft).


Unsoldered component leads are another frequent cause of failure.  There are 
folks who choose to put in one component, solder it and go on to the next, 
but I stuff components in groups (sometimes large groups), and almost never 
miss soldering a component - I achieve that by following my own rule 'NEVER 
TRIM AN UNSOLDERED CONNECTION'  I do a thorough inspection of each solder 
joint at the same time I am trimming its lead.  If I spot one unsoldered, I 
finish trimming the others and go back to solder any that are still sticking 
above the board.  If a component (like ICs) have short legs, I put one in 
and solder it (one at a time).  These are the 'rules' I have developed for 
myself, and they work for me, but I do suggest that any builder develop his 
own method of 'orderliness' to help prevent construction errors.


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 


May I offer a word of advice.  Don't get into a Zen like state as you put
the caps in etc.   Read and check EVERY step.   Don't think to yourself
"Ok..I'm running .047 caps right now".




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Re: [Elecraft] K2_Split_LED file

2004-12-02 Thread Timothy A. Raymer

Peter,

There are two versions available on Tom Hammond, N0SS's web site:

http://www.n0ss.net/index.html#K2

Tim Raymer
73 de KA0OUV
K2#1383

At 14:31 12/02/2004, Peter wrote:

Greetings

I try to download  the K2_Split_LED_12.pdf from 
http://members.cox.net/cwnut/ but it isn't

there anymore.
can some send me this document?

Peter
PC2A



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Timothy A. Raymer
Missouri Department of Health
and Senior Services




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Re: [Elecraft] New Build K2/100

2004-12-02 Thread Brian Mury
On Thu, 2004-02-12 at 11:16 -0800, Bob Tellefsen wrote:
> Take an old cardboard box, around the size your K2 came in.
> Cut it horizontally so that all the ends of the little corrugations
> are exposed.
> Now, when you are inventorying and building, you can place your parts
> where they are visible, and grouped together.

I use old cardboard egg cartons with the top cut off.

-- 
73, Brian
VE7NGR

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[Elecraft] k2 4533 build

2004-12-02 Thread Stokest977
hello
wonder if any one can advise
  have just come up to page 61 elecraft manual
   vco alignment
sarted off ok was able to get  6 volt on 80 mtrs at 4000
   then the metre shot up to 8 volt moving the vfo dial  slightly
  restores to the set volts moving  the vfo dial again  slightly
  it shoots up to 8 volts same on all bands when the metre is
  at 8 volts there is no adjustment  posible at l 30
same on all bands
all caps are correct value  been over all relevant soldering  again
not sure if it is posible to test varicap diodes dont want to 
  start removing them  dont have replacements
if the volts  is set to the correct value and left without  moving
any thingit stays at that value
thanks  all tom g0lne
 
 
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