[Elecraft] Noise Blanker Wish List.

2005-02-11 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Greetings Folks,

An "Evasive" noise blanker is on my wish list. This is the system where the
noise blanker receives noise from "out of band" and none of its circuits
(except for its input "tap off" and the IF Gate) are in the main signal
path. Best done when you can tune the noise blanker receiver a little to
avoid strong out of band signals (ie evasive). The result is that your
crosstown "friend" at S9++ and 1 kc up does not "key" the noise blanker. The
idea has been around for a long time, Collins used it but they picked up
noise at low VHF. Bit more complex but it really pays off I've found.

73,

Geoff.

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Re: [Elecraft] Noise Blanker Wish List.

2005-02-11 Thread Stewart Baker
The Trio TS180S had this scheme of noise blanker as well.

73
Stewart G3RXQ

On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 08:55:13 -, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:
> Greetings Folks,
>
> An "Evasive" noise blanker is on my wish list. This is the system where the
> noise blanker receives noise from "out of band" and none of its circuits
> (except for its input "tap off" and the IF Gate) are in the main signal
> path. Best done when you can tune the noise blanker receiver a little to
> avoid strong out of band signals (ie evasive). The result is that your
> crosstown "friend" at S9++ and 1 kc up does not "key" the noise blanker. The
> idea has been around for a long time, Collins used it but they picked up
> noise at low VHF. Bit more complex but it really pays off I've found.
>
> 73,
>
> Geoff.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Using K2 rant input

2005-02-11 Thread Trevor Day

Hi Vic,
Have you thought of just switching the rx antenna out of circuit whilst 
transmitting?  Unless you are using fast break-in, a small externally 
switched relay should solve your problem.  If you are feeling 
particularly paranoid:-), then use the same relay to earth the rx input 
via a 50 ohm resistor at the same time.


gl, Trev G3ZYY

In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Vic Rosenthal 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes
I am experimenting with using the K2 rant input (that's receiver 
antenna, not verbal outburst).


I want to use my 20-meter quad as a receiving antenna when I am 
transmitting on 160 with an inverted L.  It is a lot quieter.  The L is 
right next to the quad, so a lot of voltage is induced in the quad when 
transmitting with high power.


I tried putting a couple of back-to-back diodes and a 50-ohm resistor 
across the quad feedline.  I put my scope across it and found that the 
signals from BC stations, etc. were well below the clipping level of 
the diodes, and received signals were plenty strong with the K2 preamp 
on. So far so good.


Transmitting resulted in the clipping level being reached with about 
100 watts output (I have an external amplifier capable of 1500 watts).


All of a sudden, I realized that I have built a huge harmonic QRM 
generator!  If I use this setup,  as soon as the diodes clip they will 
generate harmonics all the way up into VHF, which will be re-radiated 
by the quad (it will do a real good job on the 4th harmonic, near 20 
meters, too).


Am I right?  If so, this isn't a good way to do what I want.  Does 
anyone know a) how much RF voltage can be safely applied to the K2 rant 
input when transmitting, or b) how to protect the input without making 
harmonics?  I thought of using the diodes after a lowpass filter that 
cuts off around 2.5 MHz,  but this is getting complicated.




--
Trevor Day
UKSMG #217
www.uksmg.org

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[Elecraft] Re: K1-4 Filter Board New Trimmer Caps-Final

2005-02-11 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi everybody,

Another "experienced" ham comes to the room with his tail between his legs.
EE in college and over 25 years in electronic field service, and what do I
do?  Foul up, of course.  I did read the errata before I sent the original
email, and everything else.  I checked those caps 3 TIMES before I called
Gary. I was sure I was right!  That should have been the first signal
something was terribly wrong.  You were all correct, and Gary, of course
was correct (and unbelievably patient) and I apparently am no longer
capable of distinguishing a "flat" side on a silk screen.  I need to take
more and longer breaks.

By the way, I did finish the 4 band filter board last night with the last
of the transformers.  (I counted all the windings on all transformers and
coils at least 5 times each, so you know I probably messed them up too!)
Kidding aside, I am actually loving this, and I will be a little let down
when I am done. 

Of course, there's no telling when that will be.

Thanks again.

Vin  KR2F

"I've cut this wire 3 times, and it's STILL TOO SHORT"


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .


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RE: [Elecraft] Using K2 rant input

2005-02-11 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Vic,

I don't have the full answer, but can offer this 'food for thought' -- The
Rant input (when active) is connected to the output of the K2 T/R switch
when in use, and when the Rant is not being used that point is subjected to
the full output of the base K2 output collector RF voltage - so I would
conclude that it should handle up to 15 watts of RF induced onto the Rant
input jack, but OTOH, I have not tested it.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I am experimenting with using the K2 rant input (that's receiver
> antenna, not
> verbal outburst).
>
> ...
> Am I right?  If so, this isn't a good way to do what I want.
> Does anyone know
> a) how much RF voltage can be safely applied to the K2 rant input when
> transmitting, or b) how to protect the input without making harmonics?  I
> thought of using the diodes after a lowpass filter that cuts off
> around 2.5 MHz,
>   but this is getting complicated.
>
> --
> 73,
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] Using K2 rant input

2005-02-11 Thread Bill Coleman


On Feb 11, 2005, at 12:13 AM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

I am experimenting with using the K2 rant input (that's receiver 
antenna, not verbal outburst).


I want to use my 20-meter quad as a receiving antenna when I am 
transmitting on 160 with an inverted L.  It is a lot quieter.  The L 
is right next to the quad, so a lot of voltage is induced in the quad 
when transmitting with high power.


Vic,

I think you may be missing the point of using a separate receiving 
antenna on noisy bands like 160m.


While the 20m quad may be quieter, that's likely due to the smaller 
size and gross impedance mis-match of the 20m antenna on 160m. The 20m 
quad is probably quieter for ALL signals and noise alike, which doesn't 
help.


The key to using a separate receiving antenna on 160m is NOT just to 
have a quiet, lossy antenna -- but to have a quiet, lossy, DIRECTIONAL 
antenna. The idea is to improve the signal / noise ratio by limiting 
the noise intercepted at the antenna. Since noise is generally thought 
to come from all directions, using an directional antenna makes signals 
appear stronger.


The Beverage antenna is probably the most popular receiving antenna in 
this service, but requires a lot of real estate. For 160m, a Beverage 
would be about 500 feet long.


For those of us without room for such an antenna, the flag, pennant and 
K9AY loop are good substitutes. These antennas have a cardioid 
(heart-shaped) pattern, with a strong null in the opposite direction. 
Magnetic receiving loops area also useful, particularly for nulling out 
strong local noise sources.


All of these receiving antennas should be mounted well away from the 
transmitting antenna, to avoid the type of coupling you're having 
trouble with now, as well as to avoid noise reception due to mutual 
coupling. Since these antennas are intentionally lossy, it usually 
doesn't take that much distance to avoid transmitter overload.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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[Elecraft] CW tone

2005-02-11 Thread Ian J Maude
Hi all,
I have seen this so many times but have been bitten by it.  I have just
started to get back on the key and my tone is awful.  Raspy and buzzy.
The tone on Tune is fine.  SSB is great.
I have moved the PSU well away (Revex 30A, Regular PSU) and even tried
using one even further away, easily 5 feet and about 3 feet above it
(Farnell Switch Mode).  I have the same problem with both.
I have removed the PA and tried but still the same.

Ideas would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Ian
-- 
Ian Maude G0VGS Morecambe Lancs UK | [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sysop of GB7MBC, the Morecambe Bay Cluster
Running Linux and DXSpider | K2 #4044

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[Elecraft] K1 # 1423

2005-02-11 Thread Ralph Tyrrell
test
73, Ty

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[Elecraft] K1 Polyfuse

2005-02-11 Thread Ralph Tyrrell
Noticed that Wayne just made a reference to adding a
polyfuse to a KX1.
I added one to K1 # 1423. Details at:
http://tyrrell.us/amateur/k1modpolyfuse.html.
Comments please.
73, Ty


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[Elecraft] Older K2??

2005-02-11 Thread Jeff Popa
Hello all, I am considering the purchase of an older K2 with a 1400's 
serial number. It has the following options in it. SSB, 160, NB, 
Audio Filter / Clock, Battery, and probably a couple I've forgotten. 
\My question is, with all of the updates made to the newer K2's, is 
this a good purchase? The price should be around $700 or so. Supposedly 
it looks new and works perfect. Can the DSP option be added? Can the 
100W option be added? Any thoughts would be most appreciated by this 
newbie. Thanks so much for the help

Jeff  WB8QYT  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re[elecraft] K2/KPA100 problem

2005-02-11 Thread Bryan
Hi All,

The K2 appears to work on all bands, albeit only 6 to 8watts out on 15/12/15m, 
which I presume is ok, but maginal.  When I connect up my KPA100, output is 
100w plus on the lower bands, but on 15/12/10 m it is very low, and the system 
is self-oscilating around 100MHz and the frequency is unstable.

I would think that there was a problem in the KPA's LPF for those bands, but I 
can't find anything wrong.  I use Toroidguys inductors, and all seems well as 
far as I can check.

Has anyone had a similar experience I wonder.  Does the low output from the K2 
cause this problem

Thanks

73 Bryan  G3AKF
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[Elecraft] test message

2005-02-11 Thread rckchp
test message
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Re: [Elecraft] Older K2??

2005-02-11 Thread David A. Belsley

Jeff:
  First, if you don't want to add the KPA100 right away, you really 
needn't do anything if you don't want (and if the K2 is really working 
just fine).  However, eventually you are going to want to take 
advantage of some of the nice mods that have come along since 1400s 
were made.  Go to the Elecraft webb page and download the A-to-B 
modification document.  You will find there all the major mods that 
will bring your K2, if you get it, up to more current standards.  Check 
to see if any have already been made.  Assuming not, pick out the ones 
that are either of clear interest to you or are necessary for add-ons 
(like the KPA100) that you may want to make.  That will give you an 
idea of what is ahead of you.  Some of them are necessary for the 
KPA100.  As to the DSP option, I believe (and someone will surely 
correct me if I'm wrong), that you can add it to your K2 as stands.


  Doing the A-to-B mods is going to be easier than building from anew, 
but it is still going to involve some significant effort.  And you will 
be working with a unit that is new to you, so it will be a more awkward 
experience for you than for someone who has built the unit to begin 
with.  Thus, were I you, I would seriously consider getting a new K2 
and doing the build yourself.  Then you will automatically have all the 
updates, and you will also have one of the greatest building 
experiences, and all the fun and satisfaction that goes with it, that 
you'll ever have in ham radio.


best wishes,

dave belsley, w1euy




On Feb 11, 2005, at 9:54 AM, Jeff Popa wrote:

Hello all, I am considering the purchase of an older K2 with a 1400's 
serial number. It has the following options in it. SSB, 160, NB, 
Audio Filter / Clock, Battery, and probably a couple I've forgotten. 
\My question is, with all of the updates made to the newer K2's, is 
this a good purchase? The price should be around $700 or so. 
Supposedly it looks new and works perfect. Can the DSP option be 
added? Can the 100W option be added? Any thoughts would be most 
appreciated by this newbie. Thanks so much for the help

Jeff  WB8QYT  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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RE: [Elecraft] Older K2??

2005-02-11 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Jeff,

I will not comment on the value/price, but you can compare it with the price
of new kits.  Being an earlier serial number, consider the work you would
have to do to bring it up to level (assuming you would want to do that).
The prices for the A to B mod kit, firmware upgrades, and other mod kits
provided by Elecraft may be desired.  There is nothing wrong with the
performance of earlier serial number K2s, but if you want the latest level
(which you would get with a new kit), you may want to consider the cost of
upgrading into your calculations.

Certainly the KPA100 and the KDSP2 can be added.  There are mechanical
considerations though, the Audio Filter and the KDSP2 fit into the same
place, so you will lose the KAF2 if you put in the KDSP2.  Similarly, the
internal battery is mounted in the top cover and is displaced with the
installation of the KPA100 (although you can keep the QRP top cover with
battery around for portable QRP operation if you would like that).

All in all - it may be a good price or it may not be - it depends on your
desires.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Hello all, I am considering the purchase of an older K2 with a 1400's
> serial number. It has the following options in it. SSB, 160, NB,
> Audio Filter / Clock, Battery, and probably a couple I've forgotten.
> \My question is, with all of the updates made to the newer K2's, is
> this a good purchase? The price should be around $700 or so. Supposedly
> it looks new and works perfect. Can the DSP option be added? Can the
> 100W option be added? Any thoughts would be most appreciated by this
> newbie. Thanks so much for the help
> Jeff  WB8QYT  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>


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[Elecraft] Elecraft Autotuner

2005-02-11 Thread J F
Hi Don,
Sounds interesting, I would like to see how it's
going. I'm interested in the control circuitry.
73,
Julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] Using K2 rant input

2005-02-11 Thread Vic Rosenthal

W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote:


I don't have the full answer, but can offer this 'food for thought' -- The
Rant input (when active) is connected to the output of the K2 T/R switch
when in use, and when the Rant is not being used that point is subjected to
the full output of the base K2 output collector RF voltage - so I would
conclude that it should handle up to 15 watts of RF induced onto the Rant
input jack, but OTOH, I have not tested it.


I was just looking at the circuit and I think you're right.  Let's see, 15 watts 
in 50 ohms comes out to about 27 volts.  I can put a 47 ohm resistor across the 
antenna without significant signal loss, so the impedance cannot rise above that 
level under any circumstances.  The t/r switch diodes will be cut off so there 
won't be harmonic generation from this source.  Now I just need to measure the 
RF voltage with my scope and make sure that this level isn't exceeded (with 
plenty of safety factor!)


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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Re: [Elecraft] Noise Blanker Wish List.

2005-02-11 Thread n6wg
Geoff
That's the way the NB in my old Kenwood TS180 worked.
It has an 8 MHz 1st IF, and the NB pickoff is before the 8 MHz crystal
filter, as I recall.  The NB is tunable with a front panel control to
allow you to move away from an interfering signal.
73, Bob N6WG

-- Original message -- 

> Greetings Folks, 
> 
> An "Evasive" noise blanker is on my wish list. This is the system where the 
> noise blanker receives noise from "out of band" and none of its circuits 
> (except for its input "tap off" and the IF Gate) are in the main signal 
> path. Best done when you can tune the noise blanker receiver a little to 
> avoid strong out of band signals (ie evasive). The result is that your 
> crosstown "friend" at S9++ and 1 kc up does not "key" the noise blanker. The 
> idea has been around for a long time, Collins used it but they picked up 
> noise at low VHF. Bit more complex but it really pays off I've found. 
> 
> 73, 
> 
> Geoff. 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Older K2??

2005-02-11 Thread n6wg
Jeff
You will find even the oldest K2s are solid performers.
I'm still using my s/n 12 !  It is still stock, with none of the
upgrades installed yet.  I bought the upgrade kits, but
never got around to isntalling them.  Great little radio as
it stands, and works very well as a contest radio too.
I'd say go ahead and get the K2.  I can't see how you would regret it.
Good luyck and 73
Bob N6WG

-- Original message -- 

> Hello all, I am considering the purchase of an older K2 with a 1400's 
> serial number. It has the following options in it. SSB, 160, NB, 
> Audio Filter / Clock, Battery, and probably a couple I've forgotten. 
> \My question is, with all of the updates made to the newer K2's, is 
> this a good purchase? The price should be around $700 or so. Supposedly 
> it looks new and works perfect. Can the DSP option be added? Can the 
> 100W option be added? Any thoughts would be most appreciated by this 
> newbie. Thanks so much for the help 
> Jeff WB8QYT [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> 
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RE: Re[elecraft] K2/KPA100 problem

2005-02-11 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Bryan,

I suggest solving the low power output on 15/12/10 for the base K2.  You
should be able to achieve at least 10 watts on all bands.  I don't believe
that is your basic problem with the KPA100.

If the the KPA100 is self-oscillating, that is the first problem to tackle.
Once you get that under control, other apparent problems may also disappear.

I have not had experience with oscillations in the KPA100, so the best
advice I can offer is to check all components and all soldering - it is not
normal for the KPA100 to self-oscillate, in fact in my experience it is
quite stable.  Look carefully at the input circuit components and the
transformer turns.  The LPF is not the most likely culprit.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> The K2 appears to work on all bands, albeit only 6 to 8watts out
> on 15/12/15m, which I presume is ok, but maginal.  When I connect
> up my KPA100, output is 100w plus on the lower bands, but on
> 15/12/10 m it is very low, and the system is self-oscilating
> around 100MHz and the frequency is unstable.
>
> I would think that there was a problem in the KPA's LPF for those
> bands, but I can't find anything wrong.  I use Toroidguys
> inductors, and all seems well as far as I can check.
>
> Has anyone had a similar experience I wonder.  Does the low
> output from the K2 cause this problem
>
> Thanks
>
> 73 Bryan  G3AKF
> ___
>


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RE: [Elecraft] CW tone

2005-02-11 Thread Masleid, Michael A.
Hi Ian,

As far as I can tell, the rasp/buzz issue related to power supplies
has to do with magnetic fields coupling into L30 on the right side
bottom of the K2.  This messes up the VFO frequency, so it should also
mess up SSB transmit and receive both.  Is it possible that you have
a problem with the side tone?  Hold down SPOT - if that sounds raspy
the problem is with the side tone.

If the side tone is clean, flip the K2 on its side.  If the rasp/buzz changes a 
lot, its a magnetic field from somewhere.  Look for a
"wall wart", a fluorescent ballast, or some kind of unfiltered DC
line close to the K2.  Also, look at the ~7 MHz birdie tone
using spectrogram.  A 60 Hz magnetic field will cause the 600 Hz
tone to have side bands at 60 Hz intervals due to the FM modulation
of the VFO.  (The structure might be a little funny looking because
of 60 Hz harmonics on the magnetic field.)

73 and Good Luck,
Masleid, AB9GV

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ian J Maude
Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 8:23 AM
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] CW tone


Hi all,
I have seen this so many times but have been bitten by it.  I have just
started to get back on the key and my tone is awful.  Raspy and buzzy.
The tone on Tune is fine.  SSB is great.
I have moved the PSU well away (Revex 30A, Regular PSU) and even tried
using one even further away, easily 5 feet and about 3 feet above it
(Farnell Switch Mode).  I have the same problem with both.
I have removed the PA and tried but still the same.

Ideas would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Ian
-- 
Ian Maude G0VGS Morecambe Lancs UK | [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sysop of GB7MBC, the Morecambe Bay Cluster
Running Linux and DXSpider | K2 #4044

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[Elecraft] Re: CW Tone problem

2005-02-11 Thread Ian J Maude
Hi all,
Just thought I would pop the resolution for my problem on here.

Thanks to all that responded.  Lou, W6UR was the first to spot it and
Gary Surrency shortly after.

I had installed RFC15 incorrectly which basically made it open circuit.
In trying to move it, I broke it of course!  Gary suggested I replaced
RFC15 with a jumper until I get the new one from parts.  I have done
this and all is now well.

Cheers

Ian
-- 
Ian Maude G0VGS Morecambe Lancs UK | [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sysop of GB7MBC, the Morecambe Bay Cluster
Running Linux and DXSpider | K2 #4044

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[Elecraft] Found it!

2005-02-11 Thread Mike,W8KRR
In spite of the funny happening (my sneeze), I found the "lock-up" 
problem - I inadvertantly shorted the dit line on my

bencher paddle, which locks the K2 in tx.  Moral - don't sneeze!
Mike

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Re: [Elecraft] Older K2??

2005-02-11 Thread Mike B

1400 an older serial #?  Young whipper snapper!

Hello all, I am considering the purchase of an older K2 with a 1400's 
serial number. 


--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND  K2 # 185 (in the middle of "A to B" mods)
Karns, TN
Behold the power of the penguin
Reclaim Your Inbox!  http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird/

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[Elecraft] KX1 headphones

2005-02-11 Thread Fred Jensen
Any recommendations for headphones for the KX1?  I'm currently using a
set from a Sony Discman, and even with the AF gain up all the way, it
really isn't loud enough for me (left a lot of my hearing on the other
side of the world).  Lighter would also be nice for the Spartan Sprint.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 headphones

2005-02-11 Thread Gil Stacy


Fred,
I like The Plug by Koss.
73/Gil NN4CW
K2 #3104; KX1 #53; First Born of Jack and Tillie Stacy, etc.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 headphones

2005-02-11 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
Elecraft recommends the Sony MDR series.  Get out your glasses and look 
for "Sensitivity: 108dB/mW".   There are two Sony products that say this 
and the cheaper ones are fine.  Both have a nice case good for portable 
use. Do a google search for KX1 MDR.


WA5ZNU / Leigh.

On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 12:56 pm, Fred Jensen wrote:

Any recommendations for headphones for the KX1?

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 headphones

2005-02-11 Thread Jimmy Lee
Koss the "PLUG".  Lots of volume and nice tone.


Fred Jensen wrote:

> Any recommendations for headphones for the KX1?  I'm currently using a
> set from a Sony Discman, and even with the AF gain up all the way, it
> really isn't loud enough for me (left a lot of my hearing on the other
> side of the world).  Lighter would also be nice for the Spartan Sprint.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred K6DGW
> Auburn CA CM98lw
>
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[Elecraft] Lock washers.

2005-02-11 Thread Kevin Stover

Hi all.

I have a silly question.

At one point in the manual for the KPA100 it says to install 2 
lockwashers under each screw for Q1 and Q2 while soldering them and 
another place it says just 1 lockwasher during final assembly.


How many lockwashers go under each screw for Q1 and Q2 for final assembly?

Thanks.

--
R. Kevin Stover ACØH

Reclaim Your Inbox!
http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird

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[Elecraft] K2 4718 Complete!

2005-02-11 Thread Christian Adamec
I finished K2 4718 last night (heard a Russian station calling CQ on 40 
meters!). I am only a lowly no-code tech right now and have had my 
license for only a few months. I bought this radio because it seemed to 
me to be what ham radio should be all about. I am working on upgrading 
my license (i.e. learning the code) and cannot wait to get this radio 
on the air. In the mean time, I may continue to add options... Maybe a 
6 meter transverter... I can see that this radio could be a work in 
progress for a long time! This was the first radio I ever built and the 
most complicated electronics project by far. I finished it in a couple 
weeks. When I would work on it, I just couldn't put it down. I had no 
major problems other than when I was short one switch and continued 
with the build before I got it. You might remember this caused 'not 
inst' to flash when 'menu' was pressed. For anyone with a penchant for 
building things, all I can say is this is the kit for you. It really 
helps to take the advice on the website regarding tools as well. My 
Weller station, Excelite cutters and Soldapullt were money well spent 
for this project. Thank you Elecraft for helping keep ham radio alive 
and fun!


73,
Chris KC9GSV

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[Elecraft] KX1 headfones

2005-02-11 Thread Fred Jensen
Thanks for all the replies, on and off the net, I decided to try the RS
overbrand of the Koss "Plug" since they were only $20 and RS is close,
before heading for an online purchase.  Really bi difference!  Only
one of the several types of cushions supplied with it didn't really fit,
so I have some spares.  Strong signals are now actually a little too
loud with the AF gain full on (very little is 'too loud' for me so this
is a really good deal).

The K2 and KX1 just continue to be more and more fun.

CU all in the NA Sprint tomorrow night.  There's an NCCC sponsored
practice tonight (Fri 2/11) ... 1830 - 1900 PST (2/12 0230Z - 0300Z) if
you're interested.  All the recommended frequencies and all are
welcome.  Be careful of the RTTY, WPX is going on too.

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 4718 Complete!

2005-02-11 Thread Steven Pituch
Great news Chris!

See the SolidCopy web site, http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SolidCpyCW/  and
join their email list.  Lots of useful advice on passing the code test.  The
Koch program they push is the best that I've seen for learning the code.

Also, my K2 #402 is working gangbusters for the QRP Foxhunts.  It’s a nice
feeling knowing that you have the best equipment available.

Regards,
Steve, Pituch

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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[Elecraft] K2 S/n 01432..Frequecy Counter Probe...Question..?

2005-02-11 Thread Andy GM0NWI

Guy's..! ..(Don..! Hope You See This..)

After yesterdays, "very successful"...first "smoke test" ...goin'
MORE than accordin' to plan... I am overwhelmed to say, that "K2 S/n
01432.. Passed her first "smoke test" with flying colours...MORE than I
ever expected..!"

"..She Lives..! "

However... after the inital shock of findin' she turned on successfully, 
went
through all the proceedures, with the EEprom etc...I have carried on through 
the manual endeavouring to aspire to more success...  I am currently milling 
around on Page 44 of the manual, where they ask you to assemble a "Frequency 
Counter Probe" to allow for more testing...


Great..! More "test gadgests" for the shack..!   I am however stuck on this
one..due to the fact that I am short (I think) on another "2 pin housing" 
piece to allow this to be constructed


Can anyone advise me on what I should/could do at this point...I dont want 
to have to take the other "probe" that I just built to pieces to use the "2 
pin housing" that I put that together with...


IS THERE..! anyway, as before, in the making of the previous probe...where 
this time I "may also" use just my normal "Multi-Meter" from page 44 
onwards, to do these tests(not sure...! sounds a dumb question I 
know...but I've never experieced this kinda thing before...ever..)


"If" I could find a way around having one of these "Frequency Counter 
Probe"(s)...either home-brew or otherwise...I could move on with 
construction...just dont want to do the wrong thing hereas y'all 
understand...


I ALSO have a spare "Multi-Meter Probe" from an other meter if that would be 
of any use, where I could "cannabalis" (DOH..! spelling..!), something out 
of that possiblyit may be no use doin' that however...not sure..??


Answers will need to explain clearly, what I "could" do from here 
please...adopt the "KISS" method on this one..!


Thanks Again..Ever So Much for this guy's"K2 S/n 01432 WILL Soon Be 
On-Air"


Andy 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]  "...I Just See It.!.."  John A. Ross 
(RSD Communications circa 2004)

A.R.S.
GM0NWI QRP   "..It is vain to do with 
more "A Dis-Orientated Kiwi...
"K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Air"what can be done with 
less.. In The Northern Hemisphere..."


GQRP No.9576
QRP-L No.2165
ARCI No.10561
Alaska QRP Club No.190
Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP#-1061
ICQ No.31899603

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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 headfones

2005-02-11 Thread Gil Stacy

Fred,

You might want to bookmark this site which describes how to make DIY 
replacement foam earplugs for The Plug. 
http://www.cogev.com/trips/headphones.htm

I believe there's another site out there with more mods for The Plug.

Gil/NN4CW


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Re: [Elecraft] Lock washers.

2005-02-11 Thread k4zm
The reason for the two lockwashers while soldering the output transistors is 
to keep the screws from bottoming out in the heat sink because the heat 
transfer devices between the transistors and the heat sink are not installed 
yet.  One lockwasher is correct on final install.


73
Jm Younce K4ZM
K2  SN: 18 



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