Re: [Elecraft] N5ESE's T1 review -- excellent, but one correction
Hi Leigh: Despite my tightening the screw on the GND lug with needle-nose, it was loose after I soldered it. I don't know if it will get loose again. Perhaps I have the washer in the wrong place. For what it may be worth, I used a flat washer on BOTH sides of the plastic case (up against the case itself). Then, I used a hand-held socket to tighten the nut. Using the flat washers allowed me to apply a higher amount of force to tighten the nut since they spread the compressive forces out of a slightly wider area of plastic. I also used two flat washers between the nut and the thumbscrew, so I can sandwich the wire between the washers and not have the thumbscrew try to expel the wire as it's being tightened down. I also used a slightly longer screw and then used a pair of heavy-duty wire cutters to impart a 'bunged-up thread' right at the end of the screw. this keeps the thumbscrew from being accidently unscrewed and lost. 73, Tom N0SS
Re: [Elecraft] N5ESE's T1 review -- excellent, but one correction
I just finished my T1 and am trying it out on a trip now with my FT817. (I have my KX1 as a backup.) I was confused by the battery clip instructions too, as the diagram for installing them takes some time to orient. But I figured out that when installing the battery, the narrow tab goes to the battery's narrow post, and the wide tab goes to the battery's wide post. I didn't see this in the manual, and it is kind of obvious once you figure it out, but noting it in the manual might be soothing. I was also confused by "face down" for the bottom of the chassis in the final instalation of the board into the case. Again, obvious once you start to do it, but it wasn't clear to me whether the face of the bottom was the closed side or the open side (whixh would be the face of the completed box). Despite my tightening the screw on the GND lug with needle-nose, it was loose after I soldered it. I don't know if it will get loose again. Perhaps I have the washer in the wrong place. Leigh / WA5ZNU On Tue, 5 Apr 2005 8:11 pm, wayne burdick wrote: Monty, Thanks for comprehensive review of our T1 ATU (http://www.dit-dididit-dit.com/t1_atu.htm). I'm glad it worked well for you in field tests. We may make a few assembly and owner's manual tweaks based on your feedback. (We could have used you as a field tester :) One important comment: There is definitely no need to use stacked cores for both transformers in the SWR bridge. Balance is excellent even with a stacked core at transformer T2 only, because the characteristics of the bridge are set strictly by the turns ratio, which is the same on both transformers (8:1). There is also no need for a stacked core at transformer T1 for power dissipation reasons, since only T2 sees the effect of the voltage step-up and corresponding core heating. We have fully tested the unit at its maximum rated power with just the one stacked core. We did send out an incorrect version of the errata sheet to a few builders that claimed 7 turns were required on T2. Hopefully you got the word to use 8! 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] spectrogram question
I used Spectrogram to set up my K2's filters. When lining up the frequency peak with the marker for my preferred sidetone (650 Hz in my case), the typical display shows the usual bandwidth shape, plus a relatively sharp (and very narrow bandwidth) spike slightly offset from the center of the overall filter bandwidth. Something like this: http://www.photogs.org/filters.jpg Do I aim for putting the marker on the sharp peak (slightly offset from center), or the approximate center of the wider bandwidth shape? --Andrew, NV1B ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Bad fist
There are a lot of bad fists out there, but there is NO excuse for what I heard on 40 meters one day last week while I was at the work bench...A station in Canton, Ohio was working 7.037...He got a straight key reply to his CQ that was too weak for me to fully copy...His reply was "Your sending is choppy, your fist is terrible, and I cannot copy...73"...The poor guy did not reply...Fortunately I did not have a key hooked up...I was sorely tempted to give this guy a piece of my mind... Jerry, wa2dkg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 manual suggestions
Now that my K2 is just about complete & while it's still fresh in my mind, I thought I'd offer a couple suggestions that might make the already fantastic manual possibly even a little friendlier. These are very, very minor, though. The manual makes it incredibly easy to start from a bag of parts and end up with a first rate rig. - RECOMMENDATION: When winding toroids the manual indicates how long to cut the wire. It would be nice if it also mentioned approximately how long a lead this assumes. WHY: If you use too long a lead that's ok because you can start winding from that one if you run short on the other end. But if you start with a shorter lead, like I did, you end up working extra hard to make tight turns only to discover at the end that you had plenty of wire left over. But I did catch on after a few toroids! - RECOMMENDTAION: It would similarly be nice if the manual mentioned when you use the last piece of a given color or type of wire so that you know the rest is now extra. WHY: For example, when told to make links for the "binocular" transformer I found myself reading ahead to see what wire was still to be used to know which hookup wire would be safe to use for this. Same goes for the coax when making the RF probe. I wasn't sure if more coax would be used later, and so ended witing till the very end to finish the probe. It's also helpful to know how much extra you have so that when you make a mistake, you have the info to know whether to cut a fresh piece or conserve and work with what you've got. - And for anyone ready to start building & wondering about winding toroids, I had great luck using the "solder blob" method described in the manual. It's not as easy as a solder pot, but not that much harder either. I actually found winding the toroids to be a relaxing break from the install & solder routine. 73, Mike AB3AP Avondale, PA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] spectrogram question
Those local deviations are noise and averaging setting artifacts. Try to center your "thinking" on the mean, down 3 or 6 db. In your picture, that's the left ?, rather than the right. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 Do I aim for putting the marker on the sharp peak (slightly offset from center), or the approximate center of the wider bandwidth shape? http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] spectrogram question
Andrew, That spike looks like an actual signal within the passband. It may be some kind of pickup in the noise generator you are using or on the connecting cable (coax?), or it could be pickup in the audio path to the computer. It certainly does not look like any shape that exists in the actual filter, so NO - do not set it to line up with the marker. Change the K2 VFO to a different frequency and see if it moves - if so, it is an RF signal, if it doesn't move, it is likely an extra audio tone coming from somewhere (and it may not be in the K2 - and likely is not). You could probably just ignore that spike too. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I used Spectrogram to set up my K2's filters. When lining up the > frequency peak with the marker for my preferred sidetone (650 Hz in my > case), the typical display shows the usual bandwidth shape, plus a > relatively sharp (and very narrow bandwidth) spike slightly offset from > the center of the overall filter bandwidth. Something like this: > > http://www.photogs.org/filters.jpg > > Do I aim for putting the marker on the sharp peak (slightly offset from > center), or the approximate center of the wider bandwidth shape? > > --Andrew, NV1B > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] Bad fist
That wasn't a bad fist, it is caused by bat wet-ware. What a lid. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 His reply was "Your sending is choppy, your fist is terrible, and I cannot copy...73"... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] crikey! please edit replies down and delete extra footers
When replying to emails on the list, please remember to edit down the copied text to the minimum needed to retain context. One or two sentences from the original post are usually sufficient. This keeps the list and archive volume down and makes everything much more readable. *** Don't forget to delete the list footer message too or you will have multiple copies of it in your reply. A large part of our readers get the list in daily digest mode. When large amounts of previous posts are copied over and over it makes the digest very large and virtually unreadable. Also, many of our readers outside the U.S. pay for email by the kB and are using slower modems. Brevity in your posts helps a lot there. :-) 73 from your friendly Elecraft list manager Eric WA6HHQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft email List Official Guidelines
ELECRAFT eMail LIST GUIDELINES For those of you who are new to the list, (and for those of us who have rapidly failing memories..), here is a quick list of things to remember when posting to this list. Please save this for future reference. The most important thing to remember is that this is only a hobby - Let's have fun! 1. YOU MUST BE SUBSCRIBED to the [Elecraft] list TO POST to it. (This is done to stop advertising spammers from hitting the list.) Any postings sent to elecraft@mailman.qth.net by addresses different from the exact ones it shows as subscribers will be rejected. This includes alias (forwarded) addresses like [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you use an alias to subscribe you must have it as your from: and return address too. Subscribing with [EMAIL PROTECTED] from your physical address of [EMAIL PROTECTED] will allow you to receive postings, but your postings to the list will be rejected if their from: and reply to: address does not match your subscribe address.. Go to http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft to subscribe and to change your list preferences. To unsubscribe or to change your list preferences (digest, no mail on/off etc.), scroll to the bottom of the page and log in with your subscribed email address and the password that was sent to you by email when you subscribed (and monthly afterwards.) 2. If you want to provide an attachment, .JPG picture or other large file for use on the list, first post it to your personal web page and then post a link to its address in an email to the list. The list strips all attachments to prevent viruses from propagating and to keep the archives at a reasonable size. 3. VERY IMPORTANT: Please keep the amount of copied text from previous posts to an -ABSOLUTE MINIMUM- in your replies. Always delete -everything- from the prior post except what is necessary to keep your reply in context. Most copied messages can be reduced to one to three sentences to retain context. Remember to delete the email list footer from the previous post and especially avoid copying a long posting and adding 'Me Too!' or something similar. As the number of users on this list grows (over 1500 now) we need to work to minimize information overload... If a reply is -not- of interest to the list, just reply directly to the posting party. 4. If you are overloaded by the volume of individual messages on the list, You can view the daily Elecraft list messages for each month in web format at: http://www.elecraft.com/elist.html . These archives are updated hourly and list postings by subject. Just click on the ones you are interested into read. You can also set your list email preferences to 'no mail' delivery, which still allows you to post to the list when reading via the digest. You can also change your subscription to the DIGEST version, which sends you a single compilation each day. To change your email list options or to subscribe / unsubscribe, go to: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Scroll to the bottom of the page to log into your preferences page and set your mail options to 'no mail'. 5. ***Please keep all postings cordial.*** Restrain the urge to email someone admonishing them about a posting. The last thing we want to do is to scare anyone off the list. Overly aggressive postings and negative comments about other posters only serves to scare away new potential list members. Waiting over night before hitting 'send' really helps to put things in perspective.. If you have a complaint about someone or a thread please email it directly to me ( [EMAIL PROTECTED] ) and I'll address it. 5a. Please do not post asking people to stop a particular thread, no matter how long, off topic or repetitive it gets. Email me instead :*). I will step in when I feel it is necessary to end a thread. 5a1. Please exercise restraint in posting when a thread is getting heavily covered. 30 posts on one topic in a day (like the recurring CW thread) is usually excessive. 5b. Please do not post any direct attacks or snide comments directed at a list member. Enthusiastic arguments are encouraged, but please keep everything cordial. Members who verbally attack another (either via the list or via direct email) will be removed from the list. As the 'official' list Cop, I'll jump in as necessary to keep everything orderly. I do this off line and occasionally to the list when it is appropriate. Our goal is to keep the Elecraft list a fun, informative central clearing house for Elecraft information and enthusiasm. 6. Please DO POST your technical questions and comments to the list. Elecraft owners are your best source for quick answers (and they NEVER sleep!) If you don't get the answers you need from the list please email us direct at [EMAIL PROTECTED] , which is our customer service address. We do try to watch the list traffic, but we may not respond to everything immediately and may miss some postings sent to the list or our personal addresses. 7. Please post your exp
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Jeremiah McCarthy wrote: There are a lot of bad fists out there, but there is NO excuse for what I heard on 40 meters one day last week while I was at the work bench... A station in Canton, Ohio was working 7.037...He got a straight key reply to his CQ that was too weak for me to fully copy... His reply was "Your sending is choppy, your fist is terrible, and I cannot copy...73"...The poor guy did not reply... Fortunately I did not have a key hooked up...I was sorely tempted to give this guy a piece of my mind... Jerry, wa2dkg I had the same thing happen to me on my very first CW contact back in 1992. A gentleman in Pennsylvania let me know in no uncertain terms that my sending with the straight key was downright ugly and almost un-copyable. He also took the time to help me get it straightened out and we ended up have a very enjoyable, albeit SLOW QSO. It motivated me enough to spend the time necessary to improve my sending. If you don't have the time to help a struggling Ham with some tactful instruction keep your hand off the key. You do more damage than good. -- R. Kevin Stover ACØH K2/100 #4684 Reclaim Your Inbox! http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Jeremiah McCarthy wrote on 04/06/05 10:38 ET: > There are a lot of bad fists out there, but there is NO excuse for > what I heard on 40 meters [...] "Your sending is choppy, your fist > is terrible, and I cannot copy...73" [...] > > Jerry, wa2dkg You're right, Jerry. Maybe it's bad habits, or he's new, maybe there's a physical impairment, or who knows what. I've had great QSOs with guys sending slowly & with let's just say less-than-perfect CW. One op apologized for his fist saying he had just retired, was getting back into radio, and it was his first CW QSO in over 20 years! I felt lucky to have been the one he ran into. And the funny thing, regarding what you copied, is that it takes a lot more effort to use bad manners than good... Mike AB3AP Avondale, PA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Tuning Knob for K2
I would like to replace the tuning knob on my K2. I have seem several post here about replacements. Could someone let me know which knob to get and where I might find one. Thanks Brent WB4X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
This is the sort of thing that worries me about working CW. I am all in favor of practicing before going on the air but what is available out there to do this? Is there a hardware device & software that I can connect a key to that will send information to a PC to test if I'm sending correctly? Al. - Original Message - His reply was "Your sending is choppy, your fist is terrible, and I cannot copy...73" ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 manual suggestions
Mike Markowski wrote: It's also helpful to know how much extra you have so that when you make a mistake, you have the info to know whether to cut a fresh piece or conserve and work with what you've got. Ain't that the truth. Just before I succumbed to the flu last month my last act in building K2 1641 was to wind T7 and T6. In my foggy mental state I ended up installing T7 in the location for T6, and didn't realize my error until I went to install T6. I got T7 out without damaging the board (I think), but had to cut the red leads fairly close to the toroid, then downed-tools before I ended up doing any more "negative work". I'm just now emerging from my post-flu funk enough to want to resume work. I may have to rewind T7. I'm not sure whether there's enough red 26ga wire left to get away with that without reusing what's left of the 20" I used on the first incarnation of T7 on one of the smaller LPF inductors later on. (The good news is Radio Shack has 26ga magnet wire. The bad news is it comes in a pack of three gauges but the 26ga is only in one color. :-) I suppose I should just suck it up and press on, and throw myself on the mercy of "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" should I come up short. (My experience so far has been that cutting the wire to the recommended length leaves about three inches of extra wire when done winding.) 73 de Maggie K3XS -- -/___. _)Margaret Stephanie Leber CCP, SCJP/"The art of progress / /(, /| /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/ ---/ / | / | _ _ _` _ AOPA 925383/ amid change and to / --/ ) / |/ |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_ K3XS / preserve change amid/ -/ (_/ '.-/ .-/ARRL 39280 /order."-A.N.Whitehead/ /(_/_(_/___AMSAT 32844_/<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
In a message dated 4/6/2005 10:31:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: This is the sort of thing that worries me about working CW. I am all in favor of practicing before going on the air but what is available out there to do this? Is there a hardware device & software that I can connect a key to that will send information to a PC to test if I'm sending correctly? Al. = Al and all, The MFJ-461 Morse Code Reader (~$80) is a very nice tool to improve the quality of one's CW operations. It will improve your fist if you monitor your own sending. Just tune the reader to your rigs sidetone, and a "decent" fist will read out on the display. Fun to play with. Bill K3UJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] spectrogram question
Hi Andrew: I used Spectrogram to set up my K2's filters. When lining up the frequency peak with the marker for my preferred sidetone (650 Hz in my case), the typical display shows the usual bandwidth shape, plus a relatively sharp (and very narrow bandwidth) spike slightly offset from the center of the overall filter bandwidth. Something like this: http://www.photogs.org/filters.jpg Do I aim for putting the marker on the sharp peak (slightly offset from center), or the approximate center of the wider bandwidth shape? It appears you already have it set correctly. You want the center of the passband (not an errant peak) to be over the frequency marker. Now, this having been said, that sharp peak you illustrated, is it there ALL THE TIME? If so, that's very unusual... and it might indicate that there was a continuous carrier (though weak) within the passband of the filter when you were performing the alignment. Did you use a noise generator or just band noise? I suspect band noise, and if so, that might account for the singular peak. 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
A simple way to test your own fist might be to record (on cassette, etc) some of your own sending, save it for a few days and then play it back and see if you can easily copy it. Of the bad fists I have heard, the worst problem seems to be running letters together, followed by little difference in the length of dots and dashes. Keyers help with the latter, but you can still run letters together. The MFJ cw reader is a good idea, there are also some free cw copying programs on the net that could help as well. 73/72 - Mike WA8BXN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Hi Al, I used my K2 in test mode and sent the sidetone into the sound card of my computer. There are various CW readers avaidable, e.g.CwGet (see google for others). Some of these will show you your keying in a oscilloscope like display and tend to be very picky when decoding. I found this to work well for me. vy 73 de toby ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Hi Al: At 09:30 AM 4/6/05, you wrote: This is the sort of thing that worries me about working CW. I am all in favor of practicing before going on the air but what is available out there to do this? Is there a hardware device & software that I can connect a key to that will send information to a PC to test if I'm sending correctly? There are any number of ways to accomplish this... 1) There are CW copying programs which run on your PC and which can accept input (sidetone from the rig, or from a code practice osc.) via their MIC/LINE jack on the sound card. 2) Buy a code copier from MFJ... expensive, but effective... at least while during the short time you will probably need it. 3) Send practice CW into a tape recorder (on record it as a WAV file on your PC, using the sound card input and the MS WAV player), and then play the recorded CW back to yourself after a day or two's rest (to give you time to forget what it was you sent the first time). If you can copy what you sent, chances are others might too. 4) Have someone whose opinion you trust, and who KNOWS what good CW should sound like, critique your fist. Be prepared for some let-downs while you learn... few folks can develop a really great fist without a bit of effort, but it CAN be done. Personally, I like the idea of starting off with a straight key. But find a key of decent quality if at all possible. The cheapie (plastic) keys you can find for a couple bucks seldom do much for your fist, and can materially degrade it, given just a small chance. Once you get the 'feel' for proper inter-character element and character timing, AND once you get up to 15 WPM or so of decent hand-sent code, THEN you're probably ready to consider moving up to a keyer and paddle. I see three main keyer/paddle combinations: 1) Single-lever paddle with a keyer (iambic or other, doesn't matter) 2) Dual-level paddle with an iambic keyer operated WITHOUT using the iambic keying features. 3) Dual-level paddle with an iambic keyer operated WHILE using the iambic keying features. Personally, I tend to prefer configuration #2, because it gives me the versatility of the dual-lever paddle (slight finger timing differences which I appreciate), but since I'm not 'tied' to (and not having learned) using the keyer AS an iambic keyer, I can send decent CW with just about ANY keyer (iambic or not). Many folks who learn to only send CW with an iambic keyer find that they cannot send well if presented with a non-iambic keyer. Additionally, If I learn to send using a dual-lever paddle in the non-iambic mode BUT USING an iambic keyer, if I then choose to maybe try to add a few iambic combinations, or to just 'fudge' my finger timing a bit, the iambic feature will help to compensate and still allow me to send decent CW. I also much prefer keyers which offer AUTO-CHARACTER SPACING. This option can really help an operator who tends to run letters together while sending... I think we all sometimes catch ourselves doing this... usually not very often, but periodically I'll run a couple letters together... ACS will often 'fix' my manual error so the op on the other end never knows my fingers hiccuped. The suggestions the others have offerers are ALL good and should be read and considered... especially those about not sending faster than you can copy AND not sending faster than you can send cleanly. Most (though not all) folks can send faster than they can copy... because they already KNOW what it is they want to send, so they can have the CW all queued up, ready for their fingers to do the walking, so to speak. This doesn't necessarily mean they can send fast WELL though... if you can't send good CW at the higher speeds, then DON'T DO IT! Rotten CW at a higher speed is worse the good CW at a somewhat slower speed. WORK on good character and word spacing when sending CW!!! Concentrate on NOT running letters together... (many ops tend to send the letters "the" too closely spaced... same for "and" coming out as "pd"... and, when you finish a word, there's no harm in allowing a bit more than normal word spacing before starting the next word. This helps the receiving operator to ensure that he has copied a complete word and that he's not gonna be 'surprised' by a run-on next word almost sent as the last part of the previous word. Finally... just like the way to get to Carnegie Hall, PRACTICE... PRACTICE... PRACTICE!!! You cannot practice too much, or too often. And, of course, GET ON THE AIR to hone both your sending AND copying abilities. ANY TIME someone gives you criticism about your fist... ACCEPT it in the spirit it was (probably) given... even though it might seems brutal (or ill-worded), the person making the commend felt the need to take the time to tell you of a possible problem... use that info to search your style and see if there might still be something which needs fixin'. Now...
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Hey Al, Don't worry too much. Fortunately, this lid of which we speak (and lid I shall continue to call him) is in the minority. Most ops are fantastic and supportive and will do as much as they can to help your fist improve--or, at the very least, have a nice QSO with you and be glad to do it. (They might comment on your sloppy sending off air, but they certainly won't go out of their way to humiliate and embarrass!) So, if you're feeling up to it, get on the air and make some noise. I, for one, will be glad to hear you (if indeed I do hear you). Course, I've been a little inactive the past few weeks, but that's OK :) Vy 73, Buddy, KB5ELV -- Protect Your Family From Disease Learn about Glyconutrients, a discovery that helps your body protect, defend, and restore itself by enhancing cell communication. It's not disease orsymptom specific. MIT says," This is 1 of 10 discoveries that will change the world." http://www.theoptimalhealthsolution.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Funny story about this. I was at the Franklin Institute in Philadelphia. Great science museum for kids of all ages! They have at least three or four places where you can try sending some code. One was a spark gap, one was an old railroad telegraph "sender" and one used the MFJ-461 or similar. They had an old oak desk that was probably reminiscent of the one from a telegraph office and an 8-1/2" x 11" sheet of paper with the typical Morse Code alphabet. Kids were sitting there trying to look up a letter and send it then look up another letter and send it. Invariably it printed a bunch of erroneous characters (lots of "E" and "T" characters, go figure) on the display. I'm sure the kid thought it was "broken". My XYL told me to send her a message, which I did, and it apparently displayed the message quite well (based on my XYL's response, I didn't look at the display). One kid was amazed and asked me how I was able to do that without looking at the chart. Ah, lots of practice! Mark, NK8Q > > > >The MFJ-461 Morse Code Reader (~$80) is a very nice tool to improve the >quality of one's CW operations. It will improve your fist if you monitor >your >own sending. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Bad fist
Hi all, For anyone having trouble getting on the air with CW, there is an email list just for you. It is called SOLIDCPYCW and is at: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SolidCpyCW/ . Its just the thing if you still have butterflies about getting on the air. We've got newbies, and old timers getting back to CW or doing it for the first time. Very few CW operators will give you __destructive__ criticism. They are in the minority, and don't deserve to be on the air. If you have a thick skin and realize that having a bad fist is OK if you are new at it, or have a disability of some sort, just get on the air. Sometimes a QRP PSE at the end of the CQ will help. Otherwise join the above email list to get some support from a bunch of nice hams. Regards, Steve, W2MY/5 http://users.ev1.net/~spituch/, Corpus Christi, TX, ELl7 QRP/ARCI 8351, FPQRP 1025, NJQRP 25, QRP-L 269, FISTS 3150, ARS 142, NEQRP 281, NWQRP ??, 10-10 61720, NORCAL 691, K2 #402 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.3 - Release Date: 4/5/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Getting Started On CW
When I started out as a Novice in 1964, I was advised to start with a straight key. When I could send well at about 15 wpm, then consider changing over to some kind of speed key. We didn't have iambics then. I switched to homebrew solid state keyer, that I built myself, and a Vibroplex paddle, which I still have. I now use an Idiom Press Super Keyer II, and an iambic paddle. I may not send the greatest code in the world, I'm still learning, but I'm glad that I followed my Elmer's advice. 73, Steve Brandt N7VS ex: WB6VVS, WN6QYP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] F/S K2/100 and K1
For Sale B model K2/100, SSB, NB, 160, 60, AF $1500 For sale K1-4 40/30/20/15 NB, AT, Battery, Stand, 2 band Board 80/17, TecPac case $595 Thanks Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Tuning Knob for K2
I'm still looking myself. The two I see recommended are for the FT-100 and FT900. You can get info on the FT-900 knob atit at http://www.qsl.net/w3fpr/index.htm. I like the size, but I want something with a recessed finger dimple. I went to HRO and measured a bunch of likely candidates. The TS-570 knob looked good, but it is 30 bucks! The FT-900 knob is reputedly about 10 bucks. I also looked at the Icom R75 which is the same diameter (1-3/4") and the FT-847 which is an 1/8" smaller. Both have the recessed finger dimple. I haven't had a chance to price any of them other than Kenwood (they have prices on the Internet), but I'll post what I find. I'm also looking for something better for the K1. I want something a little bigger and rubber covered because the knob is so sharp. I bought the add-on finger dimple from Elecraft and, while it is great for rapid QSY, it has a sharp edge and it sticks out too far so it is always in my way when I am fine tuning. I want a recessed dimple. I looked at the TS-480SAT knob. It's only 1-1/2" in diameter, but it is also 30 bucks. I'm still looking. Some of the guys have resorted to buying turnips at the local supermarket to get the rubber bands for their K2 knobs. I'm not there yet. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brent Sutphin WB4X Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 7:19 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Tuning Knob for K2 I would like to replace the tuning knob on my K2. I have seem several post here about replacements. Could someone let me know which knob to get and where I might find one. Thanks Brent WB4X ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Relationship between two Mods.
I am home from work a couple of days assisting my wife who is recovering from surgery. I have been reviewing the mods that I have on hand for the K2 (SN 1056). I am little fuzzy about two K2 Temperature-Compensated PLL Referencec Upgrade and BFO Upgrade Kit BFOMDKT I have written on the BFOMDKT envelope that I am to use the crystal in the Temperature Compensated PLL Reference Upgrade ... but I cannot find a reference for that note I wrote. So, what is the relationship between the two mods? Is the crystal in the Temp-Comp better, different ... what? Lee - K0WA Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it - Lee Buller ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: What Firmware version is the K2 currently at?
Current firmware is at 2.04P, since Feb, 2004. 73, Brian Broggie - W6FVI Elecraft Parts Original Message Subject: [Elecraft] What Firmware version is the K2 currently at? Nt Date: Sun, 03 Apr 2005 11:23:30 -0600 From: Phil Townsend <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad fist
There are a lot of bad fists out there, but there is NO excuse for what I heard on 40 meters one day last week while I was at the work bench...A station in Canton, Ohio was working 7.037...He got a straight key reply to his CQ that was too weak for me to fully copy...His reply was "Your sending is choppy, your fist is terrible, and I cannot copy...73"...The poor guy did not reply...Fortunately I did not have a key hooked up...I was sorely tempted to give this guy a piece of my mind... Jerry, wa2dkg --- I'd have been upset too. Reading your story makes me sad. >From The Amateur's Code: The Amateur is Considerate... never knowingly operates in such a way as to lessen the pleasure of others. The Amateur is Friendly...slow and patient operating when requested; friendly advice and counsel to the beginner; kindly assistance, cooperation and consideration for the interests of others. These are the hallmarks of the amateur spirit. I'd suggest talking to the station who was listening. The station you could hear definitely wasn't listening, nor could he copy code. Maybe he is just a bad character. Maybe he was just embarrassed to realize he couldn't copy CW. I've noticed that happens more often these days as ops get on the air after learning Farnsworth code. It's wonderful that they are able to learn CW more easily and enjoy it more quickly, but several ops I've known who learned Farnsworth had to stop and learn to copy all over again once they got on the air. The problem is that in normal operation most ops on the air don't leave the exaggerated spaces between letters that the Farnsworth system allows when you set the Farnsworth speed well above the actual sending speed. They've been studying Farnsworth CW at 20 WPM and when they got their receiving speed up to, say, 10 wpm, they try to get on the air. Suddenly "real CW" at even 10 or 15 wpm sounds like a run-together jumble to them until they learn to follow the proper spacing and rhythm of CW. To me sending that way is like playing music off key, but if I run into one of those ops, I'll stretch out my spacing so they can copy. After all, some wise wag said that anything worth doing is worth doing badly at first, if necessary. Clearly, the guy who was listening in the QSO you heard was the station "down in the mud" at your QTH that day. If I'd have gotten his call I'd have sent him a letter reassuring him. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Al wrote: This is the sort of thing that worries me about working CW. I am all in favor of practicing before going on the air but what is available out there to do this? Is there a hardware device & software that I can connect a key to that will send information to a PC to test if I'm sending correctly? -- All you need is a good op on the other end Al. The best way to build speed and confidence is to make RF and make QSO's. There's an old pidgin-Latin saying that I've always tried to remember when dealing with inconsiderate ops: "Illigitimus non-carborundum" (Don't let the -bad guys- wear you down). Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
On Apr 6, 2005, at 10:11 AM, R. Kevin Stover wrote: Jeremiah McCarthy wrote: There are a lot of bad fists out there, but there is NO excuse for what I heard on 40 meters one day last week while I was at the work bench... A station in Canton, Ohio was working 7.037...He got a straight key reply to his CQ that was too weak for me to fully copy... His reply was "Your sending is choppy, your fist is terrible, and I cannot copy...73"...The poor guy did not reply... Fortunately I did not have a key hooked up...I was sorely tempted to give this guy a piece of my mind... I can't say I completely disagree with the chap in giving such a response. He might have been a bit more pleasant, but, after all, the other ham is supposed to know how to send and receive code **before** he is given a license. Yes, sending is not tested any more, and that is a shame. But what if people got out on the roads in automobiles before they learned how to drive. After they smashed into your car (or your kid), would you suggest they slow down a bit, then sit in the seat next to them to give them a lesson? Not quite the same thing in terms of the severity of the consequences, to be sure, but . . . I had the same thing happen to me on my very first CW contact back in 1992. Yes, this is inferable. A gentleman in Pennsylvania let me know in no uncertain terms that my sending with the straight key was downright ugly and almost un-copyable. He also took the time to help me get it straightened out and we ended up have a very enjoyable, albeit SLOW QSO. It motivated me enough to spend the time necessary to improve my sending. If you don't have the time to help a struggling Ham with some tactful instruction keep your hand off the key. You do more damage than good. There is a difference, here. The rather rude chap above couldn't keep his hand off the key, because he was the one who sent the cq and got answered. I guess he could simply have qsy-ed and ignored the chap. But, just as you benefited from being told in no uncertain terms how your fist stacked up, so likely did this guy. I think a bit of candor regarding bad sending is fully warranted, indeed desirable. I do, however, agree with the the tenor of your remarks that the caller above could have been a bit friendlier. That's decidedly in the ham tradition -- as also ought be decent sending. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Relationship between two Mods.
Lee, The crystals are the same - either will work, but don't use both - save the other for a spare. Other than that, there is no relationship between the 2 mods. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > K2 Temperature-Compensated PLL Referencec Upgrade > and > BFO Upgrade Kit BFOMDKT > > I have written on the BFOMDKT envelope that I am to > use the crystal in the Temperature Compensated PLL > Reference Upgrade ... but I cannot find a reference > for that note I wrote. > > So, what is the relationship between the two mods? Is > the crystal in the Temp-Comp better, different ... > what? > > Lee - K0WA > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Tuning Knob for K2
Brent, I have information about the Yaesu FT-900 knob on my website www.qsl.net/w3fpr, but the phone number is wrong again - I just can't keep up with Yaesu parts - look them up with a Google search - as of 2 weeks ago, Yaesu parts were handled by Vertex Standard, 10900 Walker Street, Cypress, CA 90630 and the phone number was (714)827-7600. Now for the bad news - Yaesu has discontinued the FT-900 knob, but you can still buy the rubber tire for it. With a bit of stetching, you can slide the FT-900 tire over the stock K2 knob and you end up with a nice knob without the sharp front corner. You can add the FingerDimple (available from Elecraft) if you like them. The FT-100 knob is a bit smaller, and does have a recessed 'finger-hole', and is quite usable on the K2 (many folks like it), and that is available from Yaesu. I recently bought 3 of the FT-100 knobs and tires, and have 2 extra FT-900 tires available. I can send the FT-100 knobs to the first 3 persons who request them for $18.60 plus shipping ($1 for 1st class mail or $3.85 for Priority mail). I can ship an FT-900 tire by 1st class mail for $2 or $4.85 for Priority mail. This is not a price savings over ordering direct from Yaesu, bu I can save you a few pennies on the shipping - they ship only UPS and it is a minimum of $6.36. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I would like to replace the tuning knob on my K2. I have seem > several post > here about replacements. Could someone let me know which knob to get and > where I might find one. > > Thanks > Brent WB4X > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] spectrogram question
> It appears you already have it set correctly. You want the center of the > passband (not an errant peak) to be over the frequency marker. > > Now, this having been said, that sharp peak you illustrated, is it there > ALL THE TIME? If so, that's very unusual... and it might indicate that The sharp peak was there all the time; I used band noise as the source. It must have been a signal (ham or locally generated). Filters are now aligned and as an added bonus all but the narrowest filter have the same pitch. Thanks to all who replied. Now if only my paddle would arrive I could get on the air. Everything else on #4778 is finished. --Andrew ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Tuning Knob for K2 - (my supply all spoken for)
Folks, It did not take long to deplete my stock of knobs and tires. You can still get them from Yaesu (see below) > -Original Message- > > I have information about the Yaesu FT-900 knob on my website > www.qsl.net/w3fpr, but the phone number is wrong again - I just > can't keep up with Yaesu parts - look them up with a Google > search - as of 2 weeks ago, Yaesu parts were handled by Vertex > Standard, 10900 Walker Street, Cypress, CA 90630 and the phone > number was (714)827-7600. > > Now for the bad news - Yaesu has discontinued the FT-900 knob, > but you can still buy the rubber tire for it. With a bit of > stetching, you can slide the FT-900 tire over the stock K2 knob > and you end up with a nice knob without the sharp front corner. > You can add the FingerDimple (available from Elecraft) if you like them. > > The FT-100 knob is a bit smaller, and does have a recessed > 'finger-hole', and is quite usable on the K2 (many folks like > it), and that is available from Yaesu. I recently bought 3 of > the FT-100 knobs and tires, and have 2 extra FT-900 tires > available. I can send the FT-100 knobs to the first 3 persons > who request them for $18.60 plus shipping ($1 for 1st class mail > or $3.85 for Priority mail). I can ship an FT-900 tire by 1st > class mail for $2 or $4.85 for Priority mail. This is not a > price savings over ordering direct from Yaesu, bu I can save you > a few pennies on the shipping - they ship only UPS and it is a > minimum of $6.36. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re: [Elecraft] spectrogram question
About one year ago when I built a RockMite-40 and was about to try it I heard somebody calling CQ on 7040 kHz. I quickly plugged in my Bencher paddles to find that only one side was working and the other side didn't (new stereo 1/8" plug from R.S. was bad). Couldn't find my straight key right off (sorry, I had moved a couple of years before and still haven't finished unpacking yet). So, I quickly found another 1/8" plug which I clipped some wires to and tapped out my reply for my first QRPp QSO with the RockMite-40, from Allentown, PA to Wilmington, DE! This relates to the thread about a bad fist as well, as you can imagine. But I guess it wasn't so bad, or at least when I explained and appologized in advance to the guy in DE he must have given me great room for error, but was still able to copy me okay. I was horrified as it was the worst code I think I had ever sent! It was classic, though, to have a Morse code QSO by literally tapping two wires together. Mark, NK8Q K2 #4786 >From: Andrew Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Date: Wed Apr 06 14:02:59 CDT 2005 >To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >Subject: Re: [Elecraft] spectrogram question >> It appears you already have it set correctly. You want the center of the >> passband (not an errant peak) to be over the frequency marker. >> >> Now, this having been said, that sharp peak you illustrated, is it there >> ALL THE TIME? If so, that's very unusual... and it might indicate that > >The sharp peak was there all the time; I used band noise as the source. >It must have been a signal (ham or locally generated). Filters are now >aligned and as an added bonus all but the narrowest filter have the same >pitch. > >Thanks to all who replied. > >Now if only my paddle would arrive I could get on the air. Everything >else on #4778 is finished. > >--Andrew > > >___ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Hi Gentlefolk, When I was learning the code, back then to get a UK class A licence one had to pass a mandatory receiving and transmitting test, i used to practice sending by hooking my straight key up to the serial port of my PC. I had an excellent canadian program which took the input and made the sound and put the character on the screen...with a bit of visual feedback it did not take long for me to send fairly accurate code...the listening part of the test was the biggest hurdle. Its been a while since i have been able to transmit CW and the program has long gone...wish i could find it or something similar to get my sending back up to par...73 from cold and rainy UK. Steve G0XAR - Original Message - From: "Mike WA8BXN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 4:09 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist A simple way to test your own fist might be to record (on cassette, etc) some of your own sending, save it for a few days and then play it back and see if you can easily copy it. Of the bad fists I have heard, the worst problem seems to be running letters together, followed by little difference in the length of dots and dashes. Keyers help with the latter, but you can still run letters together. The MFJ cw reader is a good idea, there are also some free cw copying programs on the net that could help as well. 73/72 - Mike WA8BXN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.3 - Release Date: 05/04/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
I agree with taping your own fist and then copying from it a few days later. But do not record someone on the air and send it to them. I think that will drive folks away from the hobby. Much like showing someone your work of art oo new piece of fiction; unless you are very comfortable with criticism you may be embarrassed or offended. Please use restraint while commenting on others' sending skills. If they ask tell them if they are running letters together or slurring a character or two. Then turn right around and offer to help them improve. CW is so much fun I would not want to rob someone of a life time worth of pleasure simply to feed my own ego. Life does not have to be a zero sum game. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS Mike WA8BXN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: A simple way to test your own fist might be to record (on cassette, etc) some of your own sending, save it for a few days and then play it back and see if you can easily copy it. ... 73/72 - Mike WA8BXN -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.4 - Release Date: 4/6/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] morse code
I'm gonna' call you "Sparky" from now on! By the way, nice story (smile) Ron wb1hga "CW, an esoteric experience" Mark writes: (snip) horrified as it was the worst code I think I had ever sent! It was classic, though, to have a Morse code QSO by literally tapping two wires together. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
I learned CW through a combination of Farnsworth spacing on my CW tapes and sending in the TEST mode on my K2. Then I passed my test. Scared silly I did not get on the air using CW until the next summer when the VE who tested me for element 1 met me at field day. He asked how many contacts I had made. Meekly, Kevin says, "None." Well he set up a sked for the very next day on 15 meters. Scared and sweating profusely I got on the air. Fought through the QRN and copied him about 30%. He said I did great when he called me on the local repeater. I knew I had not but found out I could actually do it (sort of). So I kept at it with someone more my speed. The VE op was an Air Force ELINT intercept operator in Alaska for years. Very fine fist on any bug you could imagine. He has dozens of the critters. Then I found my current CW mentor (I am not sure if he wants to get mentioned here But Thank you SB!!) He worked with me, and is still working with me. Got me faster and faster. He weaned me from Farnsworth at about 15 wpm. He modified the style so the words were at full speed with larger spaces between. Then he went faster. Eventually I never noticed when the extra spacing went away. Some place in there I got confidence enough (foolish me!) to start the Elecraft CW Net. I thought since the SSB net was getting started maybe we should use these fine rigs for what they are best at doing: CW. So fools (me) rushed in where most angels would be scared silly. Too dumb to know any better I got a CW net going. Wayne still thinks I am a bit nuts but then he may be right ;) But the jist of this ramble is: Farnsworth is great to learn Morse code but see if you can find a mentor to wean you to where you can run the code other ops are more comfortable copying. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Op Without a Clue) Ron D'Eau Claire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I've noticed that happens more often these days as ops get on the air after learning Farnsworth code. It's wonderful that they are able to learn CW more easily and enjoy it more quickly, but several ops I've known who learned Farnsworth had to stop and learn to copy all over again once they got on the air. The problem is that in normal operation most ops on the air don't leave the exaggerated spaces between letters that the Farnsworth system allows when you set the Farnsworth speed well above the actual sending speed. They've been studying Farnsworth CW at 20 WPM and when they got their receiving speed up to, say, 10 wpm, they try to get on the air. Suddenly "real CW" at even 10 or 15 wpm sounds like a run-together jumble to them until they learn to follow the proper spacing and rhythm of CW. ... Ron AC7AC -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.4 - Release Date: 4/6/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re: [Elecraft] spectrogram question
One op, about a year ago, was so excited to hear the Elecraft Net he stopped his car and worked me mobile. He did not have a key in the car but wound up using a piece of zip cord from a pile of junk in the back seat of his car. He somehow got it stripped and hooked up to his rig. Then I got his call at about 8 wpm. So I slowed down and worked him. Welcome to ECN says I. Got his info where he told me he had an Elecraft rig but it was at home and he was working me mobile. I did not get the rest of the story until he got home and emailed me. I have worked him later. He has a very fine fist once given the proper tools. Did a creditable job with a few wires tapping his metal dash board though!!! Kevin. KD5ONS On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 14:17:31 -0500 (CDT), <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: About one year ago when I built a RockMite-40 and was about to try it I heard somebody calling CQ on 7040 kHz. I quickly plugged in my Bencher paddles to find that only one side was working and the other side didn't (new stereo 1/8" plug from R.S. was bad). Couldn't find my straight key right off (sorry, I had moved a couple of years before and still haven't finished unpacking yet). So, I quickly found another 1/8" plug which I clipped some wires to and tapped out my reply for my first QRPp QSO with the RockMite-40, from Allentown, PA to Wilmington, DE! This relates to the thread about a bad fist as well, as you can imagine. But I guess it wasn't so bad, or at least when I explained and appologized in advance to the guy in DE he must have given me great room for error, but was still able to copy me okay. I was horrified as it was the worst code I think I had ever sent! It was classic, though, to have a Morse code QSO by literally tapping two wires together. Mark, NK8Q K2 #4786 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.4 - Release Date: 4/6/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ECN/30 tomorrow 10.107.2 @ 0100z
Barring any earth shaking matters personally affecting me in the next 24-36 hours, I will be calling for check-ins tomorrow evening on 30m at 0100z. Look for us on 10.107.2 +/- 2 kHz. The net will start at about 0100z, and will hopefully not last any later than 0200z. For those of us who are UTC challenged and are still dealing with daylight savings time - the net starts at 9E/8C/7M/6P. Last week was interesting - I've unfortunately been so busy, that the notes I took have remained unstudied since I closed last week's net that I haven't been able to produce a net report (my fiance and I are working on finishing touches to the house before she and her kids move into the house in May). Time outside of work has been pretty much consumed in organizing, cleaning, and tossing (that's the nice way of saying that I'm a habitual pack rat with no place to store it all). Oh - by the way - there won't be an ECN/30 on Thursday, April 28 (that's the evening of our rehearsal dinner). Maybe it would be better to say that I won't be calling the net that night - but folks can still congregate there and have fun. 73, Daniel AA0NI Oklahoma City ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Mod's & Suggestions
I love my KX1 s/n #953, Have had no problems. Elecraft documentation is the best I've ever seen. Main use has been working on my CW copy and some SWL while laying in bed at Odark:30 unable to sleep. Really appreciate the "Keyer Test Mode" to practice with the KXPD1. Elecraft thought of everything. I have come up with a few modifications or suggestions for consideration. 1. 1 Amp Pico fuse between D2, D3 and S2 Power On/Off. 2. Optional resistor across D3 so BT1 can be charged externally. 3. Second thumb screw and threaded insert for the paddle. 4. Split the AF circuit so the AF Gain control is between a high gain low noise diff amp and the AF output. Increase the overall gain a bit. 5. Apply the output audio through two resistors to Tip & Ring. Or output audio to Tip and then ground Ring., float Body so Mono Ear plug or small speaker can be used. 6. Last but not least, 80/75/40 meter version for us night owls. I have done 1 & 2 and will do 3, 4, 5 & CW Tuning Indicator next. Looks like there is room on top of U3 and U4 for a small SMT board to do the audio mod. I hope Elecraft will consider # 6 as a alternate version of the KX1. The Pico fuse was installed by cutting the large trace on the bottom edge of the board near R23 and soldering the fuse across the cut. The resistor to enable external charging was soldered across D3 on the top of the board. I used 82 ohms 1W (NTE 1W082). small ceramic. 82 ohms is a good compromise between charging with a plug compatible Icom BC-25U (IC-2AT) wall wart or 13.8 volts external power. 73, Gary W6STR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] spectrogram question
Paddle? Don't need no stinkin' paddle. I was at a party one night at the home of KR4W, and a receiver was running in the background. I heard WG4T (the very first 4-land Amateur Extra licensee after mine) calling CQ. I just HAD to have him in the log. The only transmitter Richard had operable was some old tube rig, keyed with about 800 volts on the key line. The closest thing to something keyable was some alligator clip-leads with (very thin) insulation over them. I got the QSO, although my code was probably a bit rough. No jolts either. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 (and a couple Benchers). Now if only my paddle would arrive I could get on the air. Everything else on #4778 is finished. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
> That wasn't a bad fist, it is caused by bat wet-ware. What a lid. What exactly is a "lid"? A derogatory term for someone who asks silly questions I suppose. Anyone know the origin of the term? 73 Paul ZL3IN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad fist
What exactly is a "lid"? A derogatory term for someone who asks silly questions I suppose. Anyone know the origin of the term? 73 Paul ZL3IN -- You'll get 100 answers at least to that question. In modern vernacular, a "LID" is a new operator. Hence he/she is likely to commit endless faux pas on the air, probably have a shaky, rough fist, scramble copy often and generally require a lot of extra effort to understand and to be understood by. Usually a good sort, a LID deserves whatever help he can get from the rest of the ops as he develops his operating skills. The most likely origin for "LID" comes from the days of wire telegraph in which a messaging office might have a number of operating positions with the individual sounders all clacking away with Morse. Newcomers were often totally distracted by the cacophony of noise and unable to separate the clacks of their sounder from those around them. One solution was to attach something, usually the lid of a tobacco tin, to their sounder so it would make a distinctive noise apart from all the others to help the new operator copy. Hence, a new operator as a "LID". Anyway, it's a nice story... Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 4784
K2 #4784 is operational on 20 m and below as band condx bad and can't find a signal to use for alignment on higher frequencies. Made first 2 QSO's on 40 meters, 1st to fellow K2er W7QC and the second to ZK1APX, 4500 miles away. Not too shabby. Also could hear a ZS6 on 40, a signal I could not hear on my 756PROII with same antenna. Did NOT try to work him with 15 w! Glad to be a K2er, Randy W6SJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Paul: Here is the colorful (perhaps more myth than fact) version. Back in the pre-radio days of the old railroad telegraph, the receiver was a mechanical clicker that clicked in response to both the key closure and the key opening. The operator distinguished the dots and dashes by counting the length of the space between clicks. To make matters worse, the old telegraph stations were located on a big room with many clickers each connected to a different line. Each operator was responsible for one clicker, but all the others were audible in the background. (Kind'a makes working 40 meter CW look like a breeze, doesn't it?) As it happens, the precise sound made by each clicker was unique, and a veteran operator could tell the difference between his and all the others. However, the less seasoned operators could not tell them apart. The solution to the problem was to take the lid from a metal tobacco can and mount it on the clicker. It turns out that bending the lid at different angles produces different sounds that are easy to distinguish. That way the inexperienced operator could distinguish his clicker from all the others. Not surprisingly, this technique brought hoots of derision from the seasoned operators, who could easily recognize their own clicker without such a device. The old salts dismissed the the young pups as "can lid operators," later shortened to "lid operators," and finally shortened to simply "lids." Thus, the term originally referred to an operator whose technique revealed inexperience. As with many railroad telegraph traditions, it was inherited by radiotelegraphers. 73, Steve Kercel AA4AK At 09:23 AM 4/7/2005 +1200, you wrote: > That wasn't a bad fist, it is caused by bat wet-ware. What a lid. What exactly is a "lid"? A derogatory term for someone who asks silly questions I suppose. Anyone know the origin of the term? 73 Paul ZL3IN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
Here is the colorful (perhaps more myth than fact) version. === Thanks Steve, certainly colourful, and the best I've heard yet, I would like to think it was true! 73, Deni F5VJC / GM3SKN K2 1188 Make RF make QSO/s (Another gem from this list) "Bad fist" thread... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Balun question
I made a simple 1:1 receive-only balun for 160 meters by winding 9 bifilar turns of no. 24 enameled wire on an FT37-77 toroid. I connected a 50-ohm resistor to the output and my MFJ antenna analyzer to the input. On 1.8 MHz it shows a resistance of 50 ohms, an inductive reactance of 1 ohm, and an SWR of 1.0:1. My question is, did I make a 'good' balun? Are there other tests I should do? It's job will be to isolate a receiving loop antenna from its feedline, to keep the nulls deep and reduce noise pickup. The RANT feature of the K2's 160-meter option has made it possible for me to use a ferrite loop which is only 21 inches (53.3 cm) long and has a s/n ratio much better than my inverted L transmitting antenna, even without the balun. I'll put details on my website after I finish testing it. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 4784
W6SJ wrote: Also could hear a ZS6 on 40, a signal I could not hear on my 756PROII with same antenna. Did NOT try to work him with 15 w! Hi Randy, The path from W6 to ZS on 40 can be really good sometimes. Next time, try it with 15W, you might be surprised! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: bad fist
I guess with all these positive stories about "bad fists" it won't hurt to put mine on the air. de "rc" kc5wa ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
In a message dated 4/6/05 5:10:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > What exactly is a "lid"? A derogatory term for someone who asks silly > questions I suppose. Anyone know the origin of the term? > The tobbaco-can-lid story given by others is the origin, passed down from landwire telegraph days. The classic definition is "A poor operator". 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Balun question
Hi Vic You can use your MFJ to measure the impedance of the balun. Connect one of of the balun (short both wires together) to the center of the MFJ coax connector and the other end, shorted together, to the shell of the connector. Use the MFJ to measure the impedance of the inductor formed at the frequency to be used, say 1850 kHz. If the impedance is 5 or more times the 50 ohm line impedance, you have a good balun for 160m. If that is the only band you expect to use it on, you are done. If you expect to use it over more bands, say 80 and 40m as well, tune the MFJ to those bands also and make the same neasurement. With a good core, the impedance should hold through these bands as well, or even be higher. Good luck and 73 Bob N6WG -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Vic Rosenthal Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 3:39 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] Balun question I made a simple 1:1 receive-only balun for 160 meters by winding 9 bifilar turns of no. 24 enameled wire on an FT37-77 toroid. I connected a 50-ohm resistor to the output and my MFJ antenna analyzer to the input. On 1.8 MHz it shows a resistance of 50 ohms, an inductive reactance of 1 ohm, and an SWR of 1.0:1. My question is, did I make a 'good' balun? Are there other tests I should do? It's job will be to isolate a receiving loop antenna from its feedline, to keep the nulls deep and reduce noise pickup. The RANT feature of the K2's 160-meter option has made it possible for me to use a ferrite loop which is only 21 inches (53.3 cm) long and has a s/n ratio much better than my inverted L transmitting antenna, even without the balun. I'll put details on my website after I finish testing it. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Bad Fist
From: Pete, G0PKS. FWIW: When I was first learning morse using pre-recorded cassettes on a walkman I quickly become familiar with the content; I then wired the output from a practice sidetone oscillator to one headphone and the walkman to the other. You quickly judge whether you are keying sympathetically! Regards, Pete, G0PKS. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Balun question
Vic, If my calculations are correct, YES you should have a good balun. The reactance of the 9 turns is 809 ohms (AL value is 884 mH/1000 turns, inductance for 9 turns should be 71.6 uH) which is more than 16 times the impedance of an antenna feedline of 50 ohms. Greater than 10 times the line impedance is the value I usually use for an effective chokeing action. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > > I made a simple 1:1 receive-only balun for 160 meters by winding > 9 bifilar turns > of no. 24 enameled wire on an FT37-77 toroid. I connected a > 50-ohm resistor to > the output and my MFJ antenna analyzer to the input. On 1.8 MHz > it shows a > resistance of 50 ohms, an inductive reactance of 1 ohm, and an > SWR of 1.0:1. > > My question is, did I make a 'good' balun? Are there other tests > I should do? > > It's job will be to isolate a receiving loop antenna from its > feedline, to keep > the nulls deep and reduce noise pickup. > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Bad fist
Al, Here is an old trick taught to me by an Old Timer Navy CW operator. One of the drills he was taught for getting the rhythm of sending CW is to send the phrase "Bens Best Bent Wire". If sent like this, "BensBest Bent Wire", it sounds like a military cadence. If you tap your foot the beat should come down on the first morse element of the capitalized letters like this, "BeNsBeSt BeNt WiRe". (ie. DAHditditdit dit DAHdit ditditdit etc.) However, in the last word of the phrase, the downbeat is on the first dash in W and in the R rather than on the first dit in those characters (W would be like ditDAHDAH, rather than DITdahdah. Try singing it with dits and dahs while accenting the morse elements on the downbeat. (To send it perfectly, the Wi in Wire is run together like it's a single character). I hope this makes sense. Its so much easier just to demonstrate it with a key. Dudley - WA1X Message: 14 Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 09:30:53 -0500 From: "AD5MA" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist To: "Elecraft Reflector" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" This is the sort of thing that worries me about working CW. I am all in favor of practicing before going on the air but what is available out there to do this? Is there a hardware device & software that I can connect a key to that will send information to a PC to test if I'm sending correctly? Al. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
In a message dated 4/6/2005 12:57:46 PM US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Then I found my current CW mentor (I am not sure if he wants to get mentioned here But Thank you SB!!) He worked with me, and is still working with me. Got me faster and faster. He weaned me from Farnsworth at about 15 wpm. He modified the style so the words were at full speed with larger spaces between. Then he went faster. Eventually I never noticed when the extra spacing went away. Some place in there I got confidence enough (foolish me!) to start the Elecraft CW Net. I thought since the SSB net was getting started maybe we should use these fine rigs for what they are best at doing: CW. So fools (me) rushed in where most angels would be scared silly. Too dumb to know any better I got a CW net going. Wayne still thinks I am a bit nuts but then he may be right ;) Hi All, Well, I think you had a good mentor! The critical thing I think you learned was about spacing, which in my view is the ultimate sin of most poor CW ops! I can deal with most CW, so long as there is some recognizable spacing between characters. But when I run across these folks who simply run their dits and dahs together from one letter to the next, "I'm outta here"! Some ops insist on having a "swing" to their sending, and though I don't care for it much, I can usually copy that stuff O.K. too. Personally, I like to make sure there is just a slight bit of extra spacing between words as well. You would be amazed at how much easier it is to copy when words are readily identifiable by their spacing. When I run across someone else who uses that technique, it is a dream to copy. Of course, the characters of each letter in a word need proper spacing too, but there is something very positive about word separation--especially if you are copying in your head. At 20 wpm or less it isn't that critical, but when you get going at 25 or 30 wpm, you really appreciate it. The best advice I can give any op, particularly new ops, is to tape your own sending and try copying it back. I would suggest taping the W1AW code practice sessions, tape your own sending of the same text, and compare. The next best advice I can give is to drop all that "rock and roll" stuff and just try sending well formed characters and words. You probably won't get many compliments about your fist unless you do. And last, but not least, don't send faster than you are really capable of doing with proper spacing and character formation. You can bet the op at the other end won't be having much fun if you violate that rule. Dave W7AQK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Balun question
W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: If my calculations are correct, YES you should have a good balun. The reactance of the 9 turns is 809 ohms (AL value is 884 mH/1000 turns, inductance for 9 turns should be 71.6 uH) which is more than 16 times the impedance of an antenna feedline of 50 ohms. Greater than 10 times the line impedance is the value I usually use for an effective chokeing action. I connected the wires on either end together and tried to measure the common-mode impedance. It exceeded the range of the MFJ meter (650 ohms). So I guess that theory agrees with practice! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bad fist
In a message dated 4/6/05 12:54:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I've noticed that happens more often these days as ops get on the air after > learning Farnsworth code. It's wonderful that they are able to learn CW more > easily and enjoy it more quickly, but several ops I've known who learned > Farnsworth had to stop and learn to copy all over again once they got on the > air. The problem is that in normal operation most ops on the air don't leave > the exaggerated spaces between letters that the Farnsworth system allows > when you set the Farnsworth speed well above the actual sending speed. > They've been studying Farnsworth CW at 20 WPM and when they got their > receiving speed up to, say, 10 wpm, they try to get on the air. Suddenly > "real CW" at even 10 or 15 wpm sounds like a run-together jumble to them > until they learn to follow the proper spacing and rhythm of CW. Quite possible, but there's another, more pervasive problem, I think. In the bad old days many if not most of us spent a considerable amount of time listening to the ham bands before we ever got a license, transmitter, or went on the air for the first time. We knew what good sending and bad sending sounded like, how the bands behaved, how to fight QRM and QRN, etc., from using our receivers to learn the code from actual received signals. We also learned the typical form of a QSO and many other incidentals like prosigns by listening to other ham QSOs. But it seems that today a number of newer hams learn the code from computers, tapes or trainers and have almost no on-air experience with Morse before they get on the air and try to use the mode. And since there's no sending test, they have to learn to send on their own. Often they are trying to do all this live, on-the-air, rather than one step at a time. I think the predominance of transceivers today has a lot to do with this. In the old days a prospective ham would start off with a receiver, and spend lots of time listening, putting up an antenna, etc. When the license was earned, you'd buy or build a transmitter and go on the air. The delay between passing the exam and getting the actual license was so long (6 to 8 weeks) that it was possible to buy or build a transmitter in the interim. Today many hams get the license first, then get a transceiver. Kinda hard to sell the idea of spending all that money for rig that is half-useless without the license. > > To me sending that way is like playing music off key, but if I run into one > of those ops, I'll stretch out my spacing so they can copy. That's how I QRS with the bug, which bottoms out around 15 wpm. Most slower ops find it easier to copy. -- On the issue of how to get started: Use a straight key first. Get a good one, learn the proper adjustment, posture, etc., and then use only the straight key until you get good at it. I went from straight key (J-37) to bug (Vibroplex Original, 1974 vintage, Standard model). The straight key experience was invaluable. -- Elecraft connection: Just had a wild idea: One of the best beginner rigs was the Heath HW-16. It was a CW-only transmitter-receiver (not really a transceiver) all in one box that covered the Novice bands only. Ran the Novice legal limit, was simple to build and simple to operate, but had decent performance for its time and the cost was rock-bottom. No AGC, no S meter, no bells or whistles, but it had a sharp filter in the receiver, a decent dial for the time, and QSK. What if Elecraft made a successor to that famous rig? Say a CW-only transceiver that was dead-simple to build and operate, but would run 50-100 watts? Minimal controls and displays, maximum value. What if the basic unit were only a receiver, and you would add the transmitter section later? The K2 is a great rig but it's very complex and the basic one is over $500. The K1 doesn't get out of the QRP class. What if 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 4801 lives
Another baby k2 born into the family! Now for some options! George NE2I ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] #4857
passed the first smoke test. pg. 42 in manual. everything workin ok ron, kc0tdj ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FDIM / Hamvention Roms
There are still rooms available in the QRP-ARCI / FISTS block of rooms for another couple of weeks. http://www.usol.com/~k8dd/rooms/rooms.htm 72 73HankK8DD -- 'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you with experience.' -anon ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 4777 comes to life and a question
Hi Fellow Elecrafters, K2 4777 came to life a couple of days ago (Monday)with my 80 mtr loop (used on all bands) and has since made itself known in MA(80 mtrs), ME(80 mtrs), PA(40 mtrs), TX(40 mtrs), MD(40 mtrs), Switzerland(40 mtrs), Bosnia(40 mtrs) and Spain(40 mtrs). I was running 10 watts when I made the first contact in MA on 80 mtrs. Since then I have run 5 watts to work the other stations. And, (I must add) there were some fair pileup condx on the Switzerland and Bosnia stations but I was able to snag them on the second or third try. Question: Do any of you K2 users notice an increase in power or current level when you put the K2 into tune mode and monitor one or the other??? Mike KT2E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 4777 comes to life and a question
Mike KT2E asked: Do any of you K2 users notice an increase in power or current level when you put the K2 into tune mode and monitor one or the other??? --- Well, it varies because the power control circuits are disabled in TUNE mode. That's to keep changing loads (like fiddling with an antenna tuner) from driving the power control circuits nuts as it tries to keep a "constant" RF voltage at the output while the load jumps all over the place. So the power you see in TUNE will often be different from OPERATE. Indeed, if you have a K2/100, your TUNE power starts out about 20 watts, even if the POWER control is set for 100 watts. For a QRP K2, the power out in TUNE is about what the POWER control is set for, but not exactly. Also, the power tends to drift upwards while the key is down and the finals warm up, and with the POWER control circuitry disabled, it will do so in TUNE. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
