[Elecraft] Z match versus KAT100

2005-06-01 Thread David Andrews
I'd appreciate thoughts about what I *think* I hear! I normally use K2/100,
KAT100, BL1 (4:1 balun), open wire feeder and 84' dipole - works fine. 80m
is noisy but I get a good match on all bands. I recently connected a Z-match
tuner (old KW Easi Match - like the Johnson Matchbox) to the output of the
KPA100 (bypassing the tuner and balun) and fed the same open wire feeder and
antenna. The contrast between QSOs and the noise on 80 increased (copy much
easier). S meter peaks the same and match is as good.

Am I imagining this, or is there a reason? Thanks.

David G4CWB

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[Elecraft] Power supply for K1

2005-06-01 Thread Timothy Fiebig
Does anyone on the list have any suggestions for a
compact power supply for the K1?

Thanks for any input.

73

Tim/K2TF



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RE: [Elecraft] Z match versus KAT100

2005-06-01 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
David,

There is a good chance that you are not imagining things.  Your tuner is
likely a link coupled design which isolates the transceiver side from any
circulating currents on the antenna side.  A balun does not provide the same
isolation.  Antenna currents can be induced from BC stations, wind static,
rain static, etc. as well as the desired signals.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I'd appreciate thoughts about what I *think* I hear! I normally
> use K2/100,
> KAT100, BL1 (4:1 balun), open wire feeder and 84' dipole - works fine. 80m
> is noisy but I get a good match on all bands. I recently
> connected a Z-match
> tuner (old KW Easi Match - like the Johnson Matchbox) to the output of the
> KPA100 (bypassing the tuner and balun) and fed the same open wire
> feeder and
> antenna. The contrast between QSOs and the noise on 80 increased
> (copy much
> easier). S meter peaks the same and match is as good.
>
> Am I imagining this, or is there a reason? Thanks.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Z match versus KAT100

2005-06-01 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
David,

>From what you say I get the feeling that the BL1 is not providing the
antenna plus open wire feeder with a true balanced load, with the result
that the feeder is also acting as an antenna, picking up noise from 'local'
sources which is not cancelled out. Although the KAT100 could provide the
KPA100 with a 50 ohm load, the feeder imbalance remains. A good rule states
that baluns of the BL1 type, current baluns, should not be used with
reactive loads where the load VSWR exceeds 3:1 worst case, not only for
imbalance reasons but also for reasons of stress under power. These are
related. This rule is strictly observed in very high power SW Broadcast
antenna system design, more often 2:1 worst case from what I have heard from
the 'Horse's mouth'.

I suspect that when  you connect the KW Easi Match, which I believe is a
proper balanced tuner, the feeder would be presented with a balanced load.
All other things being right (e.g. routing of feeder), the local noise
picked up by the feeder should be cancelled out.

The antenna itself would be affected to some degree as far as noise
contribution is concerned, but I would think that the feeder would be the
major contributor.

No doubt the same situation exists on other bands, not just 80m, but that
the external noise strength there is less and not noticeable.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


- Original Message -
From: "David Andrews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 9:29 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Z match versus KAT100


> I'd appreciate thoughts about what I *think* I hear! I normally use
K2/100,
> KAT100, BL1 (4:1 balun), open wire feeder and 84' dipole - works fine. 80m
> is noisy but I get a good match on all bands. I recently connected a
Z-match
> tuner (old KW Easi Match - like the Johnson Matchbox) to the output of the
> KPA100 (bypassing the tuner and balun) and fed the same open wire feeder
and
> antenna. The contrast between QSOs and the noise on 80 increased (copy
much
> easier). S meter peaks the same and match is as good.
>
> Am I imagining this, or is there a reason? Thanks.
>
> David G4CWB
>

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[Elecraft] Yet "Another KX1 lives" report - will the fun never end?

2005-06-01 Thread Grover K7TP
I am really impressed with this little rig. I made the usual errors but 
fixed them straight away.


I also took two items of advice from the list: 1) the Pelican 1060 case 
and 2) a small tripod to support the rig. These are both well worth 
considering. I admit I was skeptical about threading a 1/4-20 hole in 
the case but there is enough thickness there to support the thread and 
the tripod makes a nice display stand too (for the thousands of visitors 
who see my shack).


I see this as a hotel/traveling rig since I am a road warrior these days 
and travel internationally.


It looks like time to unload the Sierra and the 817.

Cheers,

Grover K7TP
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[Elecraft] XV50 Alignment Problems

2005-06-01 Thread Brian Wruble
Hi all:

I am performing the alignment step that involves peaking the voltage at TP5
by adjusting L12, L13 ... L17.  I find that the voltage starts to decline a
few seconds after I first key my K2.  After I allow a few seconds of "cool
down", the voltage recovers, but this behavior makes it almost impossible to
tell if I have peaked the inductors properly.  

I also have found that I cannot get more than 15 watts output from the XV50
when driven by 5 watts from the K2.

Any suggestions for how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

73 de Brian W3BW


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[Elecraft] K2 #4948 snag

2005-06-01 Thread "RC" KC5WA

On page 26 right coluum last instruction reads
"Place two 3/4" (19mm) spacers over the leads
of each back light  LED as shown in Figure 5-9"
-
Now to the best of my knowledge NO SPACERS
such as those described fig 5-9 were in the parts list.
Unless it is the two 8mm x 8mm square black pads.
and these need two be split in half and stacked to get
the required 1/8 spacing on the diffuser. Thanks for
any help...
de "rc" kc5wa


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #4948 snag

2005-06-01 Thread Mike Markowski
 "RC" KC5WA wrote on 06/01/05 09:50 ET:
> On page 26 right coluum last instruction reads
> "Place two 3/4" (19mm) spacers over the leads
> of each back light  LED as shown in Figure 5-9"
> -
> Now to the best of my knowledge NO SPACERS
> such as those described fig 5-9 were in the parts list.
> Unless it is the two 8mm x 8mm square black pads.
> and these need two be split in half and stacked to get
> the required 1/8 spacing on the diffuser. Thanks for
> any help...

RC,

The spacers are the little pieces you previously will have snapped off
of the switch spacing tool.

73,
Mike  AB3AP
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[Elecraft] WAS: K1 Problem with Power Out on 30/40m

2005-06-01 Thread GS
Hello all,

my problem(s) are solved. Due to circumstances I don't
know two things at once happened and made it hard to
find the problem:

- first I had a cold solder joint on the filter board
in the 30/40 section of the premix bandpass filter
which was hard to find and then

- second I have a bad trimmer capacitor which may need
to be replaced in the 15/20 section of the same
bandpass.

Bad luck.

73

Gerhard







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[Elecraft] re snag

2005-06-01 Thread "RC" KC5WA

Aaah Duh, Bingo! thanks Don and Mike:
I guess that never sank in correctly. Now i don't get to gripe about 
having to manufacture spacers. [g]

Thanks again for the point in the correct direction.
de "rc" kc5wa


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[Elecraft] Order soon for Field Day needs

2005-06-01 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ Elecraft
Just a reminder for those of you planning to get a K1, K2, KX1 or 
accessories for use on Field Day this year. Get you orders in soon as we 
always get a rush in orders and can temporarily run out of some products 
as Field Day approaches. We're in good shape right now (only T1-As are 
about a week out), so order soon, and order often! ;-)


73, Eric  WA6HHQ
(Yes, I have a commercial relationship with this vendor...)

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[Elecraft] High-tech sound enhancement for K2

2005-06-01 Thread David Andrews
Dear People,

I've much enjoyed building and using my K2 etc. As big a delight is this
mailing list, with its tremendous expertise and good humour. It's time I
gave something back, so here's my one dollar's worth. It might seem mad, but
it works.

My hearing of upper frequencies is not too good and the K2's upward (and
slightly back) facing speaker doesn't help. It's surprising how the upper
frequencies are needed for intelligibility in difficult conditions. Yes, I
could use an external speaker, but ... in English WC cisterns there is a
ballcock assembly, part of which is a hollow spherical float about 12cm in
diameter. I bought mine made of plastic from a hardware store for $1. Cut it
in half, then in half again. The quarter that remains is kind of parabolic
in shape, and when placed over the speaker beams the sound out forwards. And
... you've got three quarters left for the next three K2's you build!

Now my American brethren are going to say their lavatories/toilets use an
entirely different system, in which case I can send as many ballcock floats
over as I'm asked for!

David G4CWB

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Re: [Elecraft] High-tech sound enhancement for K2

2005-06-01 Thread Vic Rosenthal

David Andrews wrote:


Now my American brethren are going to say their lavatories/toilets use an
entirely different system, in which case I can send as many ballcock floats
over as I'm asked for!


No, we have them too.  The problem will be in finding a nice metal one 
as opposed to plastic!


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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[Elecraft] T1 ATU CUSTOMER NOTICE: Removing protective film from the label

2005-06-01 Thread wayne burdick
The label supplied with the T1 ATU has a very thin protective film 
layer that should be removed after the label is installed. If the film 
is left on, the label will have a dull appearance, may have small 
bubbles trapped beneath it, and will be susceptible to scratching. The 
underlying label has a much nicer appearance and is highly 
scratch-resistant.



IF YOU HAVE THE KIT VERSION:

The label supplied with the kit version of the T1 has the protective 
film in place. You must removed it as described below.



IF YOU HAVE THE FACTORY-ASSEMBLED VERSION:

Factory-assembled T1s are now being shipped with the film removed. 
However, the first 50 or so assembled T1s shipped still had the film. 
If you ordered an assembled T1, examine the label carefully to see if 
the film is present. The film is actually there if you can take your 
fingernail and gently leave a scratch on the surface.



REMOVING THE FILM:

You can use a fingernail or a fine-tipped tool such as a small 
jeweler's screwdriver or plastic tuning tool. Don't use a knife or 
razor blade, since you might nick the label itself.


Place your fingernail or the tip of the tool on the surface of the 
label at one corner, then rub gently until the film starts to peel off. 
You can then use tweezers or long-nose pliers to pull the film back far 
enough to grasp with your fingers. Pull with a steady pressure to 
remove it.



73,

Wayne
N6KR


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[Elecraft] T1 Tuner

2005-06-01 Thread Parker Buckley
I just finished building and installing the T1 tuner I picked up at the
Hamvention.  It was a lot of fun to build and works beautifully.  I have it
connected through an Elecraft 1:1 balun to a center-fed doublet about 60
feet long.  It tuned everything from 10 to 80 meters with no problem.  I
hooked up a remote switch for it so I can locate the tuner next to where the
feedline enters the shack and activate it from my operating position a few
feet away.  Works great.

 

Parker

WD8JOL  K2 #2636 

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[Elecraft] Those pesky 14 crystals

2005-06-01 Thread Steven Pituch

Hi all,

This has got to be a stupid question, but hey, it happens sometimes. 
Part of the reason is that I haven't had to open up the case of my K2 in 
6 years and now I sort of forgot how the thing works.


Anyway, I am faithfully upgrading my K2 #402, and have gotten to the 
part where it is suggested to shorten the ground leads to the 5 crystals 
in the cohn filter.  I figure this is a good time to replace the 
crystals since I bought the 14 crystal replacement pack.  However, I 
counted nine 4.091 mHz crystals in the K2 and 7 crystals on the ssb 
board.  This makes 16 crystals if my math is correct.


I assume x7 thru x11 are replaced, but don't know which two of the x3 
thru x6 are replaced on the main board.  I also assume all 7 of the 
crystals on the ssb board are replaced.


I fiqured this must all be explained somewhere, but haven't found it 
yet.  Advice is appreciated.


Thanks,
Steve, W2MY

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[Elecraft] K2 # 4864 Mission Complete!

2005-06-01 Thread richard.arland
Gang:

Got my K2 finished, including all the options I bought for it at the time. 
About the only other option I will pick up in the near future is the 60M option.

Aside from an "operator headspace" issue regarding how I wound transformer T1 
on the KAT2 board and how Elecraft WANTED me to wind ithmmall went 
very well indeed. Once I rewound T1 and reinstalled it (actually it was SOo 
obvious when you look at the way the manual says to wind and install T1, it is 
rediculous to do it wrong), the KAT2 came up and aligned fine. 

The DSP option is unbelievable. Larry Wolfgang, WR1B, was right...if you are in 
the DSP mode and there is no signal present in the passband, you have to look 
to see if the antenna is still connected! Man, that receiver gets quiet!!!

The one thing I forgot to do is pin out the pin out the mic connector, but that 
is not a biggie since I don't have a good hand mic at this present time to uses 
with it anyway. Something for me to do inthe future. 

Eric & Wayne: thanks for a great rig!!

vy 73

Rich K7SZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Those pesky 14 crystals

2005-06-01 Thread Steven Pituch

Hi Jim,

Are you sure about replacing X3 & X4 in a BFO mod kit?  The BFO temp 
stability kit does not include replacing the crystals.  Perhaps I missed 
one of the modes but I thought I ordered them all.  Or perhaps you 
needed a special upgrade because your SN is low.


Wondering in Texas,
Steve



k4zm wrote:

Steve;

You replace all seven on the KSB2 and X5-X11 on the K2 RF Board.  X3&X4 
are special BFO Crystals and are replaced in the BFO upgrade kit.


73

Jim Younce K4ZM
K2  SN: 18


.


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[Elecraft] Testing the compressor on K2 #4913

2005-06-01 Thread Ken Bessler

Is the design of the K2's compressor so that even at
4:1, it's not too harsh? I've been using 2:1 for normal
ops and 4:1 for difficult contacts. My mic is an old CB
"Cobra" hand mic (600 ohm). I also have a headset mic
salvaged from a cell phone (2.2k). I don't use that one
much.

I talked to KB0OMQ (2 miles away) on 40m today
and had him rate the compressor for quality at 1:1 and
4:1. He said there was no difference in quality - just in
strength. That was on the CB mic.

That had me scratching my head. Surely, 4:1 compression
would sound terrible so close in? I'm used to my FT-857D
where at 65 of 100 it sounded good but at 100 it was
only good for busting pileups. I would get complaints of my
audio if I forgot to turn it down for a ragchew.

I'm pretty sure my compressor is working - I get much more
power for a given sound with it set to 4:1.

Is the K2's compressor just THAT clean?

Ken
--
Just my 2¢ worth... 73's es gd dx de Ken KGØWX
Grid EM17ip, Flying Pigs #-1055, Digital On Six #350,
 Proud builder & owner of Elecraft K2 #4913 




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[Elecraft] PLL Reference Oscillator out of spec

2005-06-01 Thread Mike KL7R
I have completed Allignment and Test, Part II
I need help with the PLL Reference Oscillator

Range Test:
Ref High Freq  12098.1
Ref Low Freq   12092.56
Range (kHz)  6.35

Which is out of spec.
The Rev E and Rev F books say minimum of 9.8 khz

I am using a single XTAL at X1/X2
(ECS V 12.09-S KOREA G0)
I am using a shielded 10mh at L31)

Rev B boards.  Rev E manual 

The rig works on receive on 40 meters FB

I dont have the K2 Temperature-Compensated PLL Reference Upgrade.
How much does that Upgrade cost?

Mike
KL7R
Was Ser #1938 (unbuilt - then upgraded to rev b boards)
Now Ser #3373


"Courage is being scared to death - but saddling up anyway." 
- John Wayne.



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[Elecraft] K2 #4948

2005-06-01 Thread "RC" KC5WA

progress update on K2 #4948
Front Panel Completed
Next up RF Board
"rc" kc5wa


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[Elecraft] CQ WW contest last weekend

2005-06-01 Thread Eberhart, Russell
I was at a cabin at Deep Creek Lake in Western Maryland over the past weekend; 
no way to get on the Internet until today.  I ran my KX1, at first on internal 
batteries, then from my car battery.  Antenna was a 42-foot wire thrown up in a 
pine tree, with a 16-foot counterpoise.  Included in 35 contacts were six 
contacts at one watt with stations in the US, Canada, Portugal, and Germany.  
When the batteries started to fade (they had about five hours on them prior to 
the weekend session), I plugged into the car's battery, and, at approximately 
3.8 watts, had 29 contacts with the following: Slovenia, Spain, Slovak 
Republic, Serbia & Montenegro, England, Italy, Cape Verde Africa, Croatia, 
Cyprus, France, Antigua/Barbuda, Canada, and the US.  I've never had so much 
fun working QRP.  I was amazed at the number of stations that came back to me.  
The only three stations that didn't were one in the Ukraine, one in Slovenia, 
and one in Italy.  I'll have to figure it out for sure when I get home to Indy, 
but I believe that at least a dozen of the contacts were at over 1,000 miles 
per watt.
 
Russ, N9IV
KX1 #742
 
P.S. I listened for the net Sunday night, but didn't hear it on either 
frequency.
 
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Re: [Elecraft] T1 ATU CUSTOMER NOTICE: Removing protective film from the label

2005-06-01 Thread DYARNES
 
In a message dated 6/1/2005 11:05:49 AM US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

IF YOU  HAVE THE KIT VERSION:

The label supplied with the kit version of the T1  has the protective 
film in place. You must removed it as described  below.




Done!  Didn't even know it was there.
 
Dave W7AQK
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[Elecraft] K2 #4931

2005-06-01 Thread Luther B. Phillips
Hello to the Group:

After debating for quite some time, and briefly owning a K2 built by someone 
else, I finally
jumped in and ordered/built #4931. Only option ordered was the Dimple.
Took advantage of the holiday weekend and some vacation time, and got it going 
in a little over two weeks.
Build went fairly well; spent about 60 hours overall. Made a couple of major 
boo-boos, 
but was able to track them down and fix them. Thanks to Gary for some
good, quick advice. Finished up touch-up alignments tonight.
Performance so far as expected. 10-15 watts out, and receive sounds as good if 
not better
than the Omni-VI and Corsair that also grace the shack. 
Looking forward to putting the K2 through its paces during FD. Hope to be 1B 
from TN.
Then, will look at adding some other options to get ready for the next contest 
season.

Thanks to Eric, Wayne and the rest of the Elecraft gang for an excellent 
product. This thing
is both an electrical and mechanical marvel that cannot be fully appreciated 
until you put one
together!

72/73
Luther N4UW
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[Elecraft] K2 4914 Status

2005-06-01 Thread Jim W7RY

Well 4914 is well under way!

 I have completed step 1 and all functions checked out 100%.
I have completed the 3 paragraphs of resistors and now moving onto the 
resistor packs. Just about ready to start the construction of the new 
stabilizer circuit board.


72

Jim W7RY
K2 #4914

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Re: [Elecraft] PLL Reference Oscillator out of spec

2005-06-01 Thread John, KI6WX

Mike;
That is way out of spec.  Make sure you all of the components installed in 
the correct location.  Double check that you go the varactor diodes in the 
right location; this circuit uses two different types.  Also check the DC 
voltage on the varactor diodes to make sure it varies from 0 to 8 volts.  If 
everything checks out okay, ask Gary to send you a new crystal and check 
that one out.

-John
KI6WX

- Original Message - 
From: "Mike KL7R" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>




I have completed Allignment and Test, Part II
I need help with the PLL Reference Oscillator

Range Test:
Ref High Freq  12098.1
Ref Low Freq   12092.56
Range (kHz)  6.35

Which is out of spec.
The Rev E and Rev F books say minimum of 9.8 khz

I am using a single XTAL at X1/X2
(ECS V 12.09-S KOREA G0)
I am using a shielded 10mh at L31)

Rev B boards.  Rev E manual

The rig works on receive on 40 meters FB

I dont have the K2 Temperature-Compensated PLL Reference Upgrade.
How much does that Upgrade cost?

Mike
KL7R
Was Ser #1938 (unbuilt - then upgraded to rev b boards)
Now Ser #3373



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Re: [Elecraft] Testing the compressor on K2 #4913

2005-06-01 Thread John, KI6WX

Ken;
The compressor uses a power detector to measure the power level and it then 
uses that to set the audio gain.  This results in no distortion of the audio 
signal.  It is possible to run digital modes such as PSK31 through the 
compressor without adding any significant distortion to them.


It is also possible to increase the compression level up to 16:1 by changing 
a resistor value.  I'm not sure I would recommend that because every 
background noise in your shack could be transmitted at full output power.

-John
KI6WX

- Original Message - 
From: "Ken Bessler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>




Is the design of the K2's compressor so that even at
4:1, it's not too harsh? I've been using 2:1 for normal
ops and 4:1 for difficult contacts. My mic is an old CB
"Cobra" hand mic (600 ohm). I also have a headset mic
salvaged from a cell phone (2.2k). I don't use that one
much.

I talked to KB0OMQ (2 miles away) on 40m today
and had him rate the compressor for quality at 1:1 and
4:1. He said there was no difference in quality - just in
strength. That was on the CB mic.

That had me scratching my head. Surely, 4:1 compression
would sound terrible so close in? I'm used to my FT-857D
where at 65 of 100 it sounded good but at 100 it was
only good for busting pileups. I would get complaints of my
audio if I forgot to turn it down for a ragchew.

I'm pretty sure my compressor is working - I get much more
power for a given sound with it set to 4:1.

Is the K2's compressor just THAT clean? 



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