Re: [Elecraft] no, it isn't a knob, it's a...
On Thu, 14 Jul 2005, Brian Mury wrote: On Thu, 2005-07-14 at 17:51 -0500, Stuart Rohre wrote: It's a sideswiper. No, it's a single lever paddle. Note the three wire connection (and you can even see the cuts in the copper base that isolate the dit, dah, and ground connections). Actually, it is both: you can't see it in the picture but below the crocodiles (is that the correct name?) lies a black jumper wire connecting red and white(*) contacts and this is the normal configuration (for me). I have tried to use it a single-lever paddle, but I prefer to do my dits and dats by myself ;-) Once I lay my hands on a Simplex Mono, things might change, though... B73, Andrea. (*) colors are not casual: this way I remember which one goes right and which one left 8-) -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it /Amateur radio: IZ4FHT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you
I have built 98 K2's to date. Let me build one for you. My prices are reasonable and you receive a new, built K2, ready to play. 73 Alan W1HYV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] blank display FINALLY SOLVED!!! r-15
I finally found the problem at 2am. Wouldn't you know it was something I thought I checked before. I was going through all the emails sent to me about this problem (I saved them all) not really expecting anything. I've been working with Gary at elecraft support mostly. It's been almost a year now. Just going over all the solder joints again, I found a spot near r15 on the front panel board that didn't appear to be soldered at all! I soldered it from the front side since it's kind of buried on the back side by the LCD. So all you guys were steering me in this direction from the start and kind of had me hanging out it that area. I guess you-all really do know what your talking about. I was getting ready to box it up and send it off to one kind gentleman Doug W4DAS who offered to finish it for me for free! Many others W3FPR, DK8KV who was closer than I thought. Thanks to Jeff Stai WK6I, and to WB6KWT in Tracey- right next door to me almost. Thanks to all you guys for the support. Still got a long ways to go and probably lots of problems to come. But I know where to come and cry for help. I tell you, that blank display problem left me dead in the water till I solved the problem. In that time spent, I've worked on my kit building experience with a rockmite, SW+40 a 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 watt rig I got running at 5 watts. Several failed kits from Dan's Small parts, fast delivery but incomplete kits with poorly or no instructions. I've got a ten-tec DC receiver kit that is waiting to be built and was considering getting that SMT kit from KD1JP who puts out a unique 4 band 5 watt altoids fitting kit. I've built his audio filter and it was a different experience. Cold solder problem found there too. Ok, it's 2 am and now that the display light is on, looks like a good stopping place for the night. The wife is starting to think I don't love her anymore. hi hi THANK YOU ALL! Roland N5VWN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Resistance measurement
Hello all The reason that I was getting some wrong readings was down to my own stupidity, counting the pins incorrectly. Everything on the control board is within the stated ranges apart from 2 which are slightly low U6 Pin 29 69.1 K U6 Pin 30 69.2 K I might try find another VOM as I have my doubts about the one I am using. Dave GM4HQF --- avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. Virus Database (VPS): 0528-4, 14/07/2005 Tested on: 15/07/2005 12:11:20 avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2004 ALWIL Software. http://www.avast.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Human Power Output
75 watts my butt! (I forgot which list had the recent discussion about pedal-powered radios, but this is interesting to both, I imagine). Of course, those radio operators out there who can maintain 410 Watts on a bike for long enough to climg a 1500m hill should be in France about nowg. From the Velonews.com coverage of the Tour de France(http://www.velonews.com/tour2005/tech/articles/8479.0.html): SRM owner, founder and designer Ullrich Schoberer told me that live telemetric data could be found online (see www.srm.de or www.livebiodata.de/) for riders like Voigt, Kessler, Glomser and Lang, showing heart rate, power, speed and cadence on a single graph, during any stage of the Tour. When I asked Schoberer about Voigt's information from stage 9 (when he took the yellow jersey), he said the data file was not yet online, but was on his PC: Voigt's average power was 340 watts, and his average on the last climb was about 410 watts. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ARCBS Safari Pride Award - 10 bridge QSOs needed!
Hello all! The Amateur Radio Covered Bridge Society or ARCBS is proud to present the Safari Pride Award to any amateur who contacts ten covered bridges during the ARCBS Covered Bridge Weekend Event held September 3-4, 2005. This unique award is yours FREE for contacting a minimum of ten covered bridges. For more information and to view this award click on the link below. Also check out Sept. Issue of QST for more information. Don't miss this one! http://www.arcbs.org/WeekendSafariPrideCert.html 72/73, Ed, WA3WSJ ARCBS # 1 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] What battery to use?
Hi guys, I am gearing up for a portable station for emergency communications and have decided to use my K2/100 and KAT100 combo. I want to be able to power it with batteries, if the need arises. Have any of you high tech Elecrafters used a battery to power a K2/100? I don't know whether to chose a deep-discharge marine, an SLA/gel cell or AGM battery. Let's not beat this horse to death, but I would like some help on what the best choice would be. I've been thinking about using something on the order of a 50-60 Ahr size. 73, Mark Baugh W5EZY Grenada MS Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Grounding
Bob, I understand this really depends on the type of soil you are dealing with, RF does penetrate lossy soil (as in my region of the world around .002/13) quite deeply. Keeping your RF ground close to the surface (or on the surface) seems to be the best practice. A question: Would what you suggest make a good lightning dissipating ground? I can see an arguement where current distribution may be better in the soil with a (or more) long ground rod or ground mat. Comments? Julius n2wn Seems a lot of work for a relatively simple rf ground. Why not just take a piece of copper tubing and lay it in a shallow trench and bond your ground wire to it? RF doesn't penetrate the ground very far, so a deep trench wouldn't be needed. 73, Bob N6WG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Recent problems = another building tip
Seems like unsoldered pins are a popular problem these days. One of the things I do to avoid this is count as I solder. I expect an 8-pin IC to have 8 pins to solder so I count them off as I do them. If I stick 14 resistors in, I expect 28 solder joints when I flip the board over. In the case of 2-leaded parts I solder one side at a time to avoid heat build-up. So I'd count off 14 on the first pass and another 14 on the second. If's fairly normal to get off by one either because I really missed a lead or I get distracted. That just prompts me to re-count to confirm I've got them all. The other thing I do is a systematic visual inspection at each of the testing stages. It was during one of these that I found an unsoldered pin on my K1, and that's what led me to start counting as I solder. As I started the K2 last month we were discussing the need for a thorough inventory prior to building, with me arguing against. I simply divided the parts by type (resistors, capacitors, diodes, etc.). I didn't sort by value, nor did I check everything off on the parts list before starting. I found that the building process went pretty smoothly. There are a couple points in the instructions where you're told to sort the remaining parts of a certain type. Those instructions were sufficient to keep me on track. I did have to refer to the parts list to identify some of the parts but didn't have any other problems from not sorting everything by value prior to building. This assumes that you're onto the Elecraft trick of putting some parts in odd places. The thermal pads in the serial number kit is the classic case. The other one is to say in the parts list that a cap might be 2, 2.2, or 2.7 but in the instructions call for only a 2.7 without mentioning the other possibilities. If your kit has a 2.2 this will throw you for a while. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2 #4941 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar July 14 - Aug 14, 2005
~~~ N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR July 14 - Aug 14, 2005 ~~~ Summer FOX Hunt - QRP 20M CW UTC: Every Fri thru August 19, 0100z to 0229z EDT: Every Thur thru August 18, 9 PM to 1029 PM Info: http://www.cqc.org/fox/summer_rules.htm ~~~ North American QSO Party (RTTY) /QRP Entries Noted Jul 16, 1800Z to Jul 17, 0600Z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/naqprules.php ~~~ CQ WW VHF Contest (All, 6 2 Meters) ... QRP (10W) Category Jul 16, 1800z to Jul 17, 2100z Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/infoc.html ~~~ RSGB Low Power Field Day (CW) ...QRP Contest! Jul 17, 0900z to 1200z Jul 17, 1300z to 1600z Rules: http://www.contesting.co.uk/hfcc/rules/rqrp.shtml ~~~ Colorado Gold Rush (20 mtr CW QRP) ... QRP Contest July 17, 2000z to 2200z Rules: http://www.cqc.org/contests/ ~~~ Run For The Bacon (CW) ... QRP Contest! Jul 18, 0100z to 0300z Rules: http://fpqrp.com ~~~ NAQCC WEEKNIGHT 40/80-METER SLOW SPEED SPRINT (CW) ... QRP Contest! Jul 21, 0030z to 0230z Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/sprint_0507.html Great Lakes Sweepstakes (Ph Dig=CW-PSK-RTTY) ... QRP Category Jul 23, z to Jul 24, 2359z Rules: http://mdxa1.org/GLSWEEPSRULES.html ~~~ VK/trans-Tasman Contests (160m CW) ... QRP Category Jul 23, 0800z to 1400z Rules: http://home.primus.com.au/vktasman/ ~~~ Islands On The Air Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category Jul 30, 1200z to Jul 31, 1200z Rules: http://www.contesting.co.uk/hfcc/rules/riota.shtml ~~~ Flight of the Bumblebees (CW) ... QRP Contest! Jul 31, 1700z to 2100z Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/ ~~~ Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP CONTEST! *** Aug 2, 0100z to 0300z (First Monday 9 PM EDT) Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/ ~~~ Ten-Ten QSO Party (PH) ... QRP Category Aug 6, 0001z to Aug 7, 2359z Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/calendar.html ~~~ TARA Grid Dip Contest (PSK/RTTY) ... QRP Category Aug 6, z to 2400z Rules: http://www.n2ty.org/seasons/tara_grid_rules.html ~~~ EUROPEAN HF CHAMPIONSHIP (PH/CW) (EU work EU) Low Power Category Aug 6, 1200z to 2359z Rules: http://lea.hamradio.si/~scc/euhfcrules-04.htm ~~~ ARRL UHF Contest ... Low Power Category Aug 6, 1800z to Aug 7, 1800z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2005 ~~~ North American QSO Party (CW) ... 100W Max. (/QRP noted on entry) Aug 6, 1800z to Aug 7, 0600z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/naqprules.php ~~~ Worked All Europe DX Contest (CW) ... 100W category Aug 13, z to Aug 14, 2359z Rules: http://www.darc.de/referate/dx/xedcwr.htm ~~~ Maryland/DC QSO Party (SSB/CW) ... QRP Category Aug 13, 1600z to Aug 14, 0400z Aug 14, 1600z to Aug 14, 2359z Rules: http://www.w3cwc.org ~~~ Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL), WB3AAL and others for assistance in compiling this calendar. Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and we will post it and give it more publicity. Anyone may use this N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar for your website, newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose. (Include a credit to the source of this material of course.) 72 de Ken Newman - N2CQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.amqrp.org/contesting/contesting.html http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] What battery to use?]
Mark Baugh wrote: Hi guys, I am gearing up for a portable station for emergency communications and have decided to use my K2/100 and KAT100 combo. I want to be able to power it with batteries, if the need arises. Have any of you high tech Elecrafters used a battery to power a K2/100? I don't know whether to chose a deep-discharge marine, an SLA/gel cell or AGM battery. Let's not beat this horse to death, but I would like some help on what the best choice would be. I've been thinking about using something on the order of a 50-60 Ahr size. I used my K2/100 with an 80 ahr deep-discharge marine battery over field day weekend and it worked out well - left the rig running all weekend, made 350 or so CW QSOs, and voltage was down to 11.2 by the end of the weekend so it would have gone a while longer. I used that battery because I happened to have an extra one - it's sitting inside a plastic Wal-Mart battery box, but because it's in the house I'm going to swap it out for an AGM battery - no fumes, no maintenance, no way to spill acid. -- /Paul Heller W3PH [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.his.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What battery to use?
Mark wrote: I am gearing up for a portable station for emergency communications and have decided to use my K2/100 and KAT100 combo. I want to be able to power it with batteries, if the need arises...I've been thinking about using something on the order of a 50-60 Ahr size. I've been playing around with portable HF gear at campsites for 25 years. My only QRO rig for such use is a TS-50S running about the same power as the K2/100. I won't speculate on other battery technologies, but I'll just say I've found deep-discharge batteries to work fine as long as they are periodically well discharged and re-charged (about every 90 days or so). At the very least, they need to be put on charge once or more during the same interval even if they've been sitting unconnected. Even for short camping trips less than a week long with casual HF operations, I've found it best to choose the highest amp-hour capacity battery that you can find and easily move around (something about 100 amp-hours or better). I think you'll find the 50 to 60 amp-hour capacity you mention to be too low, even for short trips portable, but especially for stationary emergency use. I don't know how the K2 is, but for many solid state QRO rigs the various bandswitch and control relay switching circuits are the first things to falter as the battery voltage drops from the 12.6 vdc max that you'll have when the battery is at full charge. Low source voltage combined with voltage drop in the solid-state relay coil switching circuits (at least 0.7 vdc) can result in coil voltage that is too low to reliably operate the relays. I had one rig that wouldn't function much below about 11.0 volts due to that effect. Under transmit loads on the battery and with the voltage drop in the power cables, 11 vdc at the rig happens a lot sooner than you'd think for a QRO rig. Since you'll be starting with a relatively low 12.6 vdc, you'll want to use the shortest and heaviest wire that's practical for the power cables. I think you've got a great idea about preparing your station to operate at a power output level that is conducive to reliable communications. Any HF station truely intended to function for emergency communications should be capable of 100 watts output at least. QRP is a great hobby mode that tests the proficiency and equipment of the operator at the other end, but it has no place in serious emergency communications planning except as a very last resort. BTW, I've been able to operate for a week a 100 watt HF rig (SSB and CW) a few hours a day, and as a shortwave receiver for several times that, while camping in the boonies. I still had plenty of energy left in the deep-discharge battery I took, which was rated for 105 amp-hours. I also was using that battery to feed a 50 watt 2m FM rig and a scanner radio, and to feed a small electric light. It's really surprising how much service can be gotten from one charge from a decent-sized battery. I've had a 400 watt 12vdc/120vac portable gas-powered generator for 20 years but I've never needed to run it to re-charge the battery on any trip. The nice thing about these high capacity deep discharge batteries is that, compared to the price of typical handy-talkie battery packs, they are dirt cheap. I keep a couple charged at all times. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Another Battery Question
Hi all, I have a basic K2 (s/n 1103) without the 100 amp. I also have the Elecraft internal battery (KBT2), which I use in the field. At home the K2 is connected to a 13 volt power supply which, of course, charges the battery while I'm operating. Unfortunately life will be getting in the way of operating over the next several months and I was wondering if I should be concerned about causing any permanent damage to the K2 battery while it is not getting charged. I'd appreciate any thoughts on this. I will be around and can turn on the PS to charge the battery from time to time (how long and how often?), necessary. Thanks Tom, WB2QDG k2 1103 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Recent problems = another building tip
I do this too, and it works great! One caveat: if you can only only count to ten while soldering, don't install more than five resistors at a time. Let your ability to remain focussed on the count while focussing on soldering dictate how many you install at a time. I usually do six resistors, etc., which is a natural count for me, and is also the limit of the lead forest I care to negotiate. I also inspect and recount -before- any lead trimming. hope this helps - jeff wk6i At 06:51 AM 7/15/2005, Craig Rairdin wrote: One of the things I do to avoid this is count as I solder. I expect an 8-pin IC to have 8 pins to solder so I count them off as I do them. If I stick 14 resistors in, I expect 28 solder joints when I flip the board over. In the case of 2-leaded parts I solder one side at a time to avoid heat build-up. So I'd count off 14 on the first pass and another 14 on the second. -- Jeff Stai [EMAIL PROTECTED] Twisted Oak Winery http://www.twistedoak.com/ Rocketry Org. of CA http://www.rocstock.org/ Amateur Radio WK6I ~ Calaveras County, CA ~ WI6NE 40th Annual California QSO Party! ~ Oct 1-2, 2005 ~ http://www.cqp.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] blank display FINALLY SOLVED!!! r-15
hi Roland - very glad to hear you found the problem! Take your wife to dinner tonight!-) 73 and cheers - jeff wk6i At 02:44 AM 7/15/2005, Roland wrote: Ok, it's 2 am and now that the display light is on, looks like a good stopping place for the night. The wife is starting to think I don't love her anymore. hi hi -- Jeff Stai [EMAIL PROTECTED] Twisted Oak Winery http://www.twistedoak.com/ Rocketry Org. of CA http://www.rocstock.org/ Amateur Radio WK6I ~ Calaveras County, CA ~ WI6NE 40th Annual California QSO Party! ~ Oct 1-2, 2005 ~ http://www.cqp.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Recent problems = another building tip
On Friday 15 July 2005 13:51, Craig Rairdin wrote: Seems like unsoldered pins are a popular problem these days. One of the things I do to avoid this is count as I solder. I expect an 8-pin IC to have 8 pins to solder so I count them off as I do them. If I stick 14 resistors in, I expect 28 solder joints when I flip the board over. In the case of 2-leaded parts I solder one side at a time to avoid heat build-up. So I'd count off 14 on the first pass and another 14 on the second. Craig, I see no need to count. For all long lead components, I soldered lots of them in before trimming the leads. When I started to trim them, I checked if I had soldered before snipping - caught a few that way. ICs - I soldered the corners first so that it's easy to see one not filled in and make sure no end ones are left out. Ian, K2 #4962 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Always maximum ALC reading when pressing the PTT on your mic in SSB mode
Hi All, Just wanting to share a mistake I made this week: Observation: When pressing the PTT on your mic in SSB mode, the ALC reading shows immediately 8 digits illuminated. There is no power control possible. Output in SSB is only 1-3W, whatever the mic settings In CW mode, where the ALC is not effective, everything is working just normal Cause: On the SSB pcb, D2 was incorrectly inserted. The component Anode-Cathode direction was ok, but it was physically completely shifted 1 hole to the left (left and right across the marking D2). '73 Mark, PA5MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Recent problems = another building tip
Jeff WK6I wrote: One of the things I do to avoid this is count as I solder. I expect an 8-pin IC to have 8 pins to solder so I count them off as I do them. If I stick 14 resistors in, ... That's an excellent idea. I do it during the inspection phase. First I use a magnifier strong enough that I can easily focus on only one soldering pad at a time. My 4X Optivisor plus reading glasses underneath provide that for me. It's important to have one pad at a time dominate your field of vision. If they're enlarged enough, it's really hard to miss a pad. I work my way around an I.C. socket, studying each soldering joint and counting them off to be sure I've seen EVERY pad properly soldered and trimmed. I never install more than ONE part at a time before soldering. That's just my preference, but it lets me approach the pad with my soldering iron without working around a forest of wires and parts don't tend to drift loose from the board while I'm working. You'll notice that the later Elecraft assembly manuals no longer advocate installing groups of parts. That's entirely up to the builder. The step-completed check goes in my manual only after I've installed a part, checked its position (right holes?) and its value before soldering, then completed soldering, trimming, inspecting the soldering and making a final check of the part I.D. to be sure it's the right part in the right place. Then, and only then, does the check go in the box in the book. Sound like I hate reworking boards? You got it! Maybe I'm old-fashioned, but I come from the measure twice, cut once school of building things. It saves a lot of time and aggravation. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Recent problems = another building tip
I see no need to count. For all long lead components, I soldered lots of them in before trimming the leads. When I started to trim them, I checked if I had soldered before snipping - caught a few that way. That works too, and I check as a trim the leads also. This counting technique is most effective for ICs and other multi-leaded parts. The only thing you might miss is if you ticked off a resistor in the book without actually putting it in the board. ICs - I soldered the corners first so that it's easy to see one not filled in and make sure no end ones are left out. You'd think so, but this is exactly how I missed a pin on my K1. I missed one of the other corners. Craig ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Front end FET of transverter blown with CW configured K2
OK, guess Murphy forced me to screw up twice this week :)) So another mistake I would like to share with you all. Observation: 20dB lost in receiver performance at your transverter, no C1 adjustment possible (Elecraft XV50 kit) Cause: Q3 PHEMT ATF34143 defective How did I manage that: K2 configured in CW , with no RX delay and Iambic keyer set in the menu. The PTT line from your mic is also the 'dot' line for your internal keyer. When pressing the mic's PTT in CW mode, the K2 starts sending dots in full BK. Your transverter will try to follow the quick TX/RX switching , but since there is also little or no RX delay, the front end FET will go to heaven. Normally you would not press the mic while in CW mode, but trying to locate my other mistake (max ALC reading in SSB) I Both my A and B version K2's do this. Again human error here, but we're learning :)) '73 Mark, PA5MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 and 14205.73
Maybe Wayne is a Buffalo Bills fan. One of the zipcodes for Buffalo is 14205. 73, Dan Pawlak KF4KKF Manassas, Va Hometown? You guessed it - Buffalo (Go Bills!!) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of W3FPR - Don Wilhelm Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 11:29 PM To: Matt Osborn; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 and 14205.73 Matt, I don't believe it is significant of anything - other than the obvoius fact that the K2 happened to be tuned there when the photo was taken. As we well know from listening on the bands, most every SSB operating frequency is on a frequency of .00, so it is unlikely that it was even tuned to a real QSO at the time. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Does anybody know the why the cover of the K2 Manual has the K2 dialed to 14205.73? Is that a frequent K2 net frequency or is it just happenstance? -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.15/49 - Release Date: 7/14/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] What battery to use?]
Robert Tellefsen wrote: Paul What is an AGM battery? Don't think I've heard that term before. Thanks and 73 Bob N6WG AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat As I understand it, the original application was for military aircraft - they can be mounted in any position and don't give off hydrogen under normal circumstances. I've used the Optima 'D31M Blue Top' model in several long-run UPS applications and they've really worked out well. Wal-Mart marine batteries are cheaper (1/3 - 1/2 the cost of AGM) and supposedly have more AH capacity, but the AGM batteries seem to have significantly more capacity, last for years, and you don't have to worry about acid spills or fumes or hydrogen. Supposedly they won't leak even if the case gets cracked, though I haven't tested this scenario and hope not to ;-) There are some vendor writeups with more info at: http://www.reactual.com/metaefficient/archives/deep_cycle_batteries/index.html http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/AgmTech.htm http://www.1st-optima-batteries.com/ http://www.dcbattery.com/agmtech.html A number of eBay sellers carry these. /Paul -- /Paul Heller W3PH [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.his.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Recent problems = another building tip
Hi Group, I'm so glad to see that there are so many other anal retentives out there who check, insert, count and solder, count and trim then check again. I have only one thing to offer: When soldering, I only solder one side of a component, then come back and solder the other side later. I still count, so if I am doing 10 resistors, I expect 20 solders. This way I avoid wiggling the component by touching the other lead before the one just soldered has had a chance to completely cool. Glad to say that 4991 and the antenna tuner worked first time, right out of the box. 73, W3QS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: What battery to use?
Something to keep in mind when you desire your battery to have a relatively long life. Taking out 50% of the capacity will, in general, seriously shorten a battery's life as compared to only drawing it down to 80%. Most renewable energy systems shoot for the 70 - 80% mark. Since we're talking emergency battery operation here, it can be assumed that you'll likely be drawing the batteries down quite a bit before a recharge. Higher capacity batteries are always better - other than in size weight. My suggestion is to do this right. Don't use any kind of flooded battery (with removable caps to add water), or maintenance-free flooded batteries - same internally but you can't add water. True maintenance-free batteries are either gel or AGM. Gel batteries can supposedly handle really deep discharges better, but I wouldn't worry about that. Good AGM batteries beat gel in every other respect. Some manufacturer's charts show more discharge-charge cycles for their gel than competitor's AGMs, but from what I've heard in real-world scenarios, AGMs are more robust and actually hold up longer. Concorde AGM batteries came out clearly as the best AGM in the months of on-line research I did when recommending new batteries for work, and their price was comparable to anything else out there. No relation, but http://thesolar.biz/Concorde_Battery.htm has one of the best prices out there for the 100 and 105 Ah Concorde batteries. Hope this helps a little. -- 73, Mike Boice, KW1ND Karns, TN Behold the power of the penguin Reclaim Your Inbox! http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Another Battery Question
Yeah, life gets in the way sometimes. My first recommendation is to remove the battery from the K2 - no need to tempt fate. A sealed lead acid battery, in reasonable health, can probably go up to 6 months at normal room temps before needing to be recharged. Charge it fully, pull it out stick it on a shelf somewhere, and mark your calendar. Mark it for 4 or 5 months, if you want to be safe. Colder temps reduce the self-discharge rate, higher temps dramatically shorten it. Now may be the time to invest in a small PV (photovoltaic; solar) panel and charge controller. Up to 5 watts, oriented south at a tilt equal to your latitude, coupled with a charge controller like Don Brown (I think that's the fellow) offers here, or the Micro M+ (http://www.seslogic.com/microm+.html), or Morningstar's SunGuard (http://store.solar-electric.com/sg-4.html). I have no connection to any of these vendors, other than having a Micro M for 6 or 7 years, and using other models of Morningstars at work. -- 73, Mike Boice, KW1ND Karns, TN Behold the power of the penguin Reclaim Your Inbox! http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What battery to use?
In a message dated 15/07/05 15:37:09 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I had one rig that wouldn't function much below about 11.0 volts due to that effect. Under transmit loads on the battery and with the voltage drop in the power cables, 11 vdc at the rig happens a lot sooner than you'd think for a QRO rig. Reply: The basic K2 at least seems a lot more tolerant than most radios with an operating voltage range quoted in the specifications from 9 to 15VDC. An Icom IC-706 mkII I have will not work below 11.75VDC as the PLL section voltage regulator goes out of regulation below this point causing severe FM on the TX signal. With a 12V lead acid type battery it is unwise to expect too much life left available when the voltage measured directly at the battery is approaching 11V as the droop in voltage starts to accelerate at that point. Most comm systems that I worked on with lead acid battery plant are usually set to disconnect the batteries at 1.75V per cell or 10.75V with a 12V system to prevent permanent damage to the batteries. Even if they did not take this action the available battery charge would not last too long in any case. Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Recent problems = another building tip
Well here's my 2 cents...Before snipping a lead, I try to check for continuity between the end of the lead (the part that will eventually be snipped) and a compement or pad trace that is connected to the lead that is being snipped. If I get continuity I snip, if not I re-solder. (yea, it did take 18 months to build my K2!) Tom WB2QDG k2 1103 -- Original message -- From: tom.w3qs [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi Group, I'm so glad to see that there are so many other anal retentives out there who check, insert, count and solder, count and trim then check again. I have only one thing to offer: When soldering, I only solder one side of a component, then come back and solder the other side later. I still count, so if I am doing 10 resistors, I expect 20 solders. This way I avoid wiggling the component by touching the other lead before the one just soldered has had a chance to completely cool. Glad to say that 4991 and the antenna tuner worked first time, right out of the box. 73, W3QS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 #999 strange observation...
Hi, I used my KX1 this afternoon and I got a strange problem I put the power out to zero (0) to practice CW a few moment. And when I was sqeezing both side of my paddle, the KX1 was shutting down like power off and immediatly on, like a reset I tried with the Elecraft KX1 mini paddle and also with my Bencher paddle, and both did the same strange thing. After a few On and OFF, and menu changes, the problem disapear and everything is now working good !! but what did I do ?!?!? I found that if I put the sidetone level to 1, the problem is there, but with the side tone volume to 2 or 3, no problem at all !!! 73 == Jean-François Ménard / VA2VYZ == ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] no, it isn't a knob, it's a...
Ah, OK thanks for the update--- Depending on how you wire this particular key, ie have jumper on two side wires, and common on lever, you COULD use it as a sideswiper, (sidewise key). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Front end FET of transverter blown with CW configured K2
Hello Don, The transverter uses one relay contact (K1) to disconnect the antenna input from the Q3 input transistor during TX. I understand there will be a small delay before the full 20W output power is available on the RX/TX relay to the antenna. Still I doubt it is capable of doing full break-in (tx-rx delay menu set at 0) with dots at 20wpm and not suffer from any timing issue. The antenna was correctly connected. But then again I can and will certainly not try to repeat this error. 73 Mark, PA5MW - Original Message - From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mark_van_Wijk [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 22:05 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Front end FET of transverter blown with CW configured K2 Mark, Either you did not correctly describe the situation, but that transverter must work in CW mode too, and yes, it makes no difference whether the CW dot paddle or the PTT switch is presses when in CW mode, a string of dots should emerge. The XV50 transverter should be able to follow the T/R switching of the K2 with no problem and no damage to the transverter, unless you have some strange connection on the antenna side of the transverter. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- OK, guess Murphy forced me to screw up twice this week :)) So another mistake I would like to share with you all. Observation: 20dB lost in receiver performance at your transverter, no C1 adjustment possible (Elecraft XV50 kit) Cause: Q3 PHEMT ATF34143 defective How did I manage that: K2 configured in CW , with no RX delay and Iambic keyer set in the menu. The PTT line from your mic is also the 'dot' line for your internal keyer. When pressing the mic's PTT in CW mode, the K2 starts sending dots in full BK. Your transverter will try to follow the quick TX/RX switching , but since there is also little or no RX delay, the front end FET will go to heaven. Normally you would not press the mic while in CW mode, but trying to locate my other mistake (max ALC reading in SSB) I Both my A and B version K2's do this. Again human error here, but we're learning :)) '73 Mark, PA5MW -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.8.15/49 - Release Date: 7/14/2005 __ NOD32 1.1170 (20050715) Information __ This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. http://www.eset.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Birdies
I have had trouble with annoying “birdies,” notably at 14014 and 14029. I hope my experience in chasing these down helps someone else with a similar problem. I finally traced this to an interaction between the cable modem for my high speed cable Internet access and the network card on my computer. When I cut power to the modem, the birdie would stop. When I unplugged the CAT 5 cable at the computer, the birdie stopped. When plugged in and when I cut power to the computer, it was still there because when a computer is “off,” not all circuits are off, and whatever the reason the birdies were still there. I tried switching to DSL as provided by the local phone company but the problem was still there. It may well be that there are more expensive network cards that would not have this interaction but I did not want to fool around with them. I had noted that I did not have birdies while using a laptop in the shack. So I tried a cheap wireless card, similar in function to the ones used with laptops except that you plug it in to one of the slots on your PC. The birdies went away but the thing was incredibly slow, worse than a 56K modem. So I bought a more expensive Linksys wireless card with a “speed accelerator.” No more birdies and the Internet speed is consistent with high speed access. I should point out that the literature provided with this card says that the accelerator works only with machines running Windows XP. Randy W6SJ. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Always maximum ALC reading when pressing the PTT on yourmic in SSB mode
See, that is what happens when you start messing with SSB. Stick to CW!! HI! Paul Gates K1 #0231 KX1 #1186 XG1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Mark_van_Wijk [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 2:17 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Always maximum ALC reading when pressing the PTT on yourmic in SSB mode Hi All, Just wanting to share a mistake I made this week: Observation: When pressing the PTT on your mic in SSB mode, the ALC reading shows immediately 8 digits illuminated. There is no power control possible. Output in SSB is only 1-3W, whatever the mic settings In CW mode, where the ALC is not effective, everything is working just normal Cause: On the SSB pcb, D2 was incorrectly inserted. The component Anode-Cathode direction was ok, but it was physically completely shifted 1 hole to the left (left and right across the marking D2). '73 Mark, PA5MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Birdies
Randy, Did you try using shielded twisted pair CAT5E or CAT6 cable? This solved it for me. Just an idea... 73 Trev - K6ESE - Original Message - From: Randy Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 3:03 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Birdies I have had trouble with annoying “birdies,” notably at 14014 and 14029. I hope my experience in chasing these down helps someone else with a similar problem. I finally traced this to an interaction between the cable modem for my high speed cable Internet access and the network card on my computer. When I cut power to the modem, the birdie would stop. When I unplugged the CAT 5 cable at the computer, the birdie stopped. When plugged in and when I cut power to the computer, it was still there because when a computer is “off,” not all circuits are off, and whatever the reason the birdies were still there. I tried switching to DSL as provided by the local phone company but the problem was still there. It may well be that there are more expensive network cards that would not have this interaction but I did not want to fool around with them. I had noted that I did not have birdies while using a laptop in the shack. So I tried a cheap wireless card, similar in function to the ones used with laptops except that you plug it in to one of the slots on your PC. The birdies went away but the thing was incredibly slow, worse than a 56K modem. So I bought a more expensive Linksys wireless card with a “speed accelerator.” No more birdies and the Internet speed is consistent with high speed access. I should point out that the literature provided with this card says that the accelerator works only with machines running Windows XP. Randy W6SJ. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] What battery to use?
i also used a 84 ah for field day k2/100... with a 50 watt solar panel... at night it dropped to 11.4 before the panel brought it back to 12.4 the next morning after the sun hit the panel for a few hours... it was slowing climbing up this was a gota station,.,,,so xmt duty cycle was slow... bill. At 09:19 AM 7/15/2005, Mike Morrow wrote: Mark wrote: I am gearing up for a portable station for emergency communications and have decided to use my K2/100 and KAT100 combo. I want to be able to power it with batteries, if the need arises...I've been thinking about using something on the order of a 50-60 Ahr size. I've been playing around with portable HF gear at campsites for 25 years. My only QRO rig for such use is a TS-50S running about the same power as the K2/100. I won't speculate on other battery technologies, but I'll just say I've found deep-discharge batteries to work fine as long as they are periodically well discharged and re-charged (about every 90 days or so). At the very least, they need to be put on charge once or more during the same interval even if they've been sitting unconnected. Even for short camping trips less than a week long with casual HF operations, I've found it best to choose the highest amp-hour capacity battery that you can find and easily move around (something about 100 amp-hours or better). I think you'll find the 50 to 60 amp-hour capacity you mention to be too low, even for short trips portable, but especially for stationary emergency use. I don't know how the K2 is, but for many solid state QRO rigs the various bandswitch and control relay switching circuits are the first things to falter as the battery voltage drops from the 12.6 vdc max that you'll have when the battery is at full charge. Low source voltage combined with voltage drop in the solid-state relay coil switching circuits (at least 0.7 vdc) can result in coil voltage that is too low to reliably operate the relays. I had one rig that wouldn't function much below about 11.0 volts due to that effect. Under transmit loads on the battery and with the voltage drop in the power cables, 11 vdc at the rig happens a lot sooner than you'd think for a QRO rig. Since you'll be starting with a relatively low 12.6 vdc, you'll want to use the shortest and heaviest wire that's practical for the power cables. I think you've got a great idea about preparing your station to operate at a power output level that is conducive to reliable communications. Any HF station truely intended to function for emergency communications should be capable of 100 watts output at least. QRP is a great hobby mode that tests the proficiency and equipment of the operator at the other end, but it has no place in serious emergency communications planning except as a very last resort. BTW, I've been able to operate for a week a 100 watt HF rig (SSB and CW) a few hours a day, and as a shortwave receiver for several times that, while camping in the boonies. I still had plenty of energy left in the deep-discharge battery I took, which was rated for 105 amp-hours. I also was using that battery to feed a 50 watt 2m FM rig and a scanner radio, and to feed a small electric light. It's really surprising how much service can be gotten from one charge from a decent-sized battery. I've had a 400 watt 12vdc/120vac portable gas-powered generator for 20 years but I've never needed to run it to re-charge the battery on any trip. The nice thing about these high capacity deep discharge batteries is that, compared to the price of typical handy-talkie battery packs, they are dirt cheap. I keep a couple charged at all times. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] no, it isn't a knob, it's a...
On Fri, 2005-07-15 at 16:56 -0500, Stuart Rohre wrote: Depending on how you wire this particular key, ie have jumper on two side wires, and common on lever, you COULD use it as a sideswiper, (sidewise key). Good point. That would work for any single lever paddle. The thought had never occured to me. -- 73, Brian VE7NGR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #5023 Has a Home
Fellow Elecrafters-- K2 #5023 has arrived. I'm a first-time Elecrafter, and only have a few simple Heathkits under my built as well as a few small homebrew projects. It's a beautiful package, and all's well with the inventory thus far. I had wondered before it arrived if seeing the hundreds of parts would cause me to question the purchase. Just the opposite: the kit doesn't look as daunting after the box is opened as it does when only reading the downloaded manual. Many thanks to Elecraft and the K2 owners who answered my pre-purchase questions and endorsed the rig. My new soldering station won't arrive until early next week, so I'll be busy this weekend completing the inventory. It's great to know all of you are out there--I won't hesitate to post questions on the reflector if I need help. 73, John, N7ON Reno, Nevada ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XIT/Split interaction?
I suffered an emabrrassing lapse today while trying to work a DX station up. I set the A and B vfos for split operation and on transmit, the frequency display changed as it should .But it turned out the rig didn't After a while I noticed I could hear the DX station while I was (I thought) on the split side (and before it changed back). Sheesh. Joined the LID club. I had left XIT on by mistake, and it was apparently cancelling the split. Problem went away when I cancelled XIT. Later, monitoring with a second receiver showed that was indeed happening. I won't crawl away to 2 meter FM just yet (grin), but has anyone else noted this? Cortland KA5S ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Always maximum ALC reading when pressing the PTT onyourmic in SSB mode
Now Paul, that's quite enough!! Happy be those who speak with SSB, for they are the enlightened. g 73, Geoff GM4ESD K2/100 + KSB2 #3255 Paul Gates wrote: See, that is what happens when you start messing with SSB. Stick to CW!! HI! Paul Gates K1 #0231 KX1 #1186 XG1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
