[Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you.
I have built over 100 K2's to date, and all of the other Elecraft kits as well. Let me build your radio or other Elecraft kit. My rates are reasonable and you get a built and aligned radio ready to play and enjoy. 73 Alan W1HYV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Problem with first test KX1
Looking at the top of the board with the lettering rightside up (U3 on the right side, notch to it's left), the pins of U3 are: 8765 1234 so pin 6 is the third pin from the left on the top. I have no comments on the RS DMM other than try the leads both ways (reverse red and black) and use whichever (top or bottom of board) is easiest to get to. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snip By the way, which is pin 6 on U3? /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 number 3354 lives
Hi Everybody, My K2 sn 3354 livesthank you to everyone on the reflector for helping me debug the couple of problems I have had along the way. If I may make a comment about Page 74 in the manual TX alignment - I found it curious that once the RX had been set up one has to repeat the same procedure for TX alignment. In my case when aligning the TX for 20 Meters the output power went haywire after I set C21 and C23 to their mid point settings and started adjusting L8 and L9. To cut a long story short I went back to the RX pre alignment stage and set C21 and C23, L8 and L9 for maximum signal strength. Then I returned to Tx Alignment without changing the settings...the tx power was stable at 2 watts...I then checked all of the other bands for tx power without altering the settings from Rx and all seems to be well...i.e 2 watts on the POWER control, 2 watts out...on the Motorola test set. So I do not intend to carry out any TX alignment...unless someone can explain why I should. BTW on all bands the MDS is in excess of the quoted -135DBm - assuming the calibration on the Motorola test set is good I get readable signals at -137 dBm. Lastly I would just like to thank everyone at Elecraft for such a fine kit. It has been really been a lot of fun building the K2 and I have learned a lot along the waythanks guysnow to start work on the option kitsThe K2 is in the shack tuned in to a contest on 40 meters...and coping very well...I wish my morse was up to it... 73 Steve G0XAR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 progress
I received my K2 kit in October, but Wilma wanted to see it so came right over the house. I have completed assembly steps 1 and 2. I have just been taking my time. On both smoke tests no problems. Fired right up. Before I even did the filters I hooked it to an antenna and was copying an I2 on SSB. After finishing the alignment I was copying cw signals that my IC-735 couldn't hear. Amazing. I know my 735 has a good receiver in it (it will stay here for QRO and SW listening) but this is a different class. I have not put the K2 up against my RX-321 because I am starting the final assembly. I don't think it will have any trouble against the Ten-Tec. I have been a ham 28 years and in Electronics almost as long. I sold my FT-990 to purchase the K2 and don't regret it one bit. The 990 had problems the Yaesu service guys couldn't fix (also some parts are no longer available) and since I didn't buy the extender boards I was up the creek. I feel confident I made a wise choice, and if anything does come up with the K2 I'll be able to handle it. BTW, I already have 2 Weller stations and a ton of tools. I've worked in places where ECN's were an almost daily occurrence, so adding parts, cutting lands etc does not really bother me. So so far no glitches, and by taking my time and double and triple checking before I install parts, no rework. I'll let you know when it is done. 73 all de Bob K3YT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 number 3354 lives
Steve, On the Tx alignment - it is easier to detect a small increase in output than it is to hear an increase in signal with your ears (as in the Rx alignment). I agree that re-doing the 20 meter 'presetting' both times is not necessary. I recommend that you go back and peak up the bandpass in Tx mode - you should only have to move the slugs and trimmers a small bit to hit the peak. Just remember to observe the band sequence - adjust the inductors first and then adjust the capacitive trimmers afterwards. If you have the k160 option installed, you may have to compromise on the setting between 80 and 160 meters. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- My K2 sn 3354 livesthank you to everyone on the reflector for helping me debug the couple of problems I have had along the way. If I may make a comment about Page 74 in the manual TX alignment - I found it curious that once the RX had been set up one has to repeat the same procedure for TX alignment. In my case when aligning the TX for 20 Meters the output power went haywire after I set C21 and C23 to their mid point settings and started adjusting L8 and L9. To cut a long story short I went back to the RX pre alignment stage and set C21 and C23, L8 and L9 for maximum signal strength. Then I returned to Tx Alignment without changing the settings...the tx power was stable at 2 watts...I then checked all of the other bands for tx power without altering the settings from Rx and all seems to be well...i.e 2 watts on the POWER control, 2 watts out...on the Motorola test set. So I do not intend to carry out any TX alignment...unless someone can explain why I should. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Wanted KX1 and K2 - Still Need K2
Thanks to all who responded - I found a KX1 - BUT I am still looking for a K2 for immediate purchase as follows - cash waiting! Barebones K2 with serial number above 4060. Prefer fully assembled and tested but partially assembled kit is OK as long as everything is there! Please respond off list via email or phone at 404.218.3595 Tnx es 73 -- Don N4HH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Safe way to remove excess flux?
Can any of you folks recommend a safe way to remove excess flux from a PCB? TIA, Jeff KG6ZVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Safe way to remove excess flux?
Jeff, Isopropanol, denatured isopropyl alcohol works great, available from Techspray, www.techspray.com, via Mouser/Digikey/Jameco (can't recall where I got it last). Or, try the 90% solution rubbing alcohol, ~$1/pt at WalMart. -- 73, Rod N0RC On 11/19/2005 11:59 AM, jrb said the following: Can any of you folks recommend a safe way to remove excess flux from a PCB? ... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Safe way to remove excess flux?
Use 100% Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol). Get a 1/2 inch paint brush, the sort you would use for trimming around window frames etc, and cut the bristles back to about half length to stiffen it up a bit. Dip the brush in the alcohol then scrub a small area of the circuit board for about 20 seconds, then dab dry with an absorbent cloth. I have never damaged any boards this way, but it's not particularly safe because Isopropanol is highly flammable, so do it outside and away from sources of ignition. Also the chaps at Elecraft don't approve of cleaning boards at all, but I won't tell if you don't. 73 Paul ZL3IN Can any of you folks recommend a safe way to remove excess flux from a PCB? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] For Sale KPA 100, 100 W module
I have a wired and tested KPA-100 module for sale. Just replace the regular top with this unit and you are ready to operate. It is complete with high current cable and connector. $450. including UPS from PA to lower 48 states. Howard ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Safe way to remove excess flux?
On Sat, 19 Nov 2005 Jeff (KG6ZVT) wrote ... Can any of you folks recommend a safe way to remove excess flux ...? Jeff, 1) Remove the flux immediately after soldering as it typically hardens within about 30 minutes making the task considerably more difficult, if not impossible. Although this will depend on the type of flux used. 2) Use a horse hair brush like these http://www.web-tronics.com/855-5.html with the bristles trimmed down to between 1/3 and 1/4 of their original length so that they are fairly stubby (rigid). BTW, I have them in two different widths, approximately 1/4 and 3/8 and use the smaller one for small areas. (I also have one of these tooth brush like contraptions http://www.weisd.com/store2/TEC2042.html made of hogs hair which I think I paid about $15 for. I may have used it once while building a 100 W dummy load. It's bristles are extremely rigid. I don't recommend one unless you have a very large and mechanically hefty item to clean. Perhaps the cheaper horse hair variety might be more useful since its bristles would be softer?) 3) I've had good results with a 91% isopropyl alcohol from Wal-Mart and a 99% isopropyl alcohol from Tech Spray (#1610-P). Do not even try to use the 75% stuff from your local grocery store! 4) A pump bottle is a **must** as it dispenses a small amount of fluid into its recessed lid thereby avoiding contaminating the entire bottle with flux. Here are some sample bottles from the Mouser catalog to give you an idea what I'm describing ... http://www.mouser.com/catalog/624/1623.pdf 5) Using a dispensing pump bottle, saturate the brush with alcohol and scrub a small portion the PCB at a time. (I like to go back and forth, up and down, and in circles to get every bit of flux.) Be sure to orient the PCB vertically or even slightly past vertical so that none of the flux/alcohol solution seeps into any unfilled plated-through holes and onto the other side of the board! Also, place the board on something like another Kimwipe to absorb the runoff from the board. It's also a good idea to keep your optical aids (magnifying lamp and Opti-Visor) away from the area while doing this step to avoid making a mess! The more alcohol you use on the brush the less likely it will be that your brush becomes unusable due to the build up of flux. If this should happen, just throw it away and get a new one. 6) Small Kimwipes are also a **must** as you are about to discover. The brush takes care of the bulk of the flux but leaves the board with a thin film of sticky gunk! Fear not! You have not made things worse! You're simple not done yet! Now, use a small Kimwipe (suitably folded, crumbled, or scrunched to your liking). Saturate the Kimwipe in alcohol and go over the area just cleaned with the brush. It's probably a good idea to once again adhere to the suggestion of holding the board vertically to avoid contaminating the unfilled holes and possibly the other side of the board. (Although by this point there shouldn't be too much flux left anyway.) 7) If desired you can now buff the board with a dry Kimwipe to reveal a bright shining PCB. :) 8) The last step is to use an untrimmed (full length) clean horse hair brush (i.e. one never dipped in alcohol) to remove the lint that results as the Kimwipes are shredded by the component leads. 9) I suggest gaining confidence by practicing on something small and inexpensive before tacking something expensive and precious. Perhaps you would find the Rework Eliminators(TM) K2 accessory kit which I designed earlier this year as a comfortable place to start? You can learn all about it on my website at http://home.cfl.rr.com/garyhvizdak/KI4GGX/unpcbs/ Disclaimer: Yes, I do have a financial interest in this product! 10) Although this whole process is considerably more work, there are several good reasons for removing flux. Here are some that come to mind ... a) Prevents corrosion especially in more humid climates since most types of flux will absorb moisture. b) Prevents fine dust and dirt particles from adhering to the sticky flux. This will be worse if you have a cooling fan. c) Simplifies any subsequent rework since the flux will eventually harden like concrete making later rework extremely difficult. d) Least important of all, it just looks way nicer. 11) Following up on the more work comment, you may find it easier to alter a kit's recommended assembly order to permit easier access to one side of the board or the other. Typically, I'll install as many components on the bottom first as this is the best (easiest) time to clean the top of the board. Once the top (component) side of the board is cluttered with components its quite difficult to clean it properly. (I've never build a KX1 which I understand is fully populated on both sides of the PCB.) 12) Some components do not take kindly to alcohol. Be especially carefully around any unsealed components like pots, switches, and trimmer caps. 73, Gary,
[Elecraft] RFTB Tomorrow night
Ladies and Gents: Please don't forget - tomorrow night is the November Run For The Bacon. Sponsored by the Flying Piggies. It's always a very fun event; and we look forward to hearing your signals fly through the aether. Join us from 9:00 - 11:00PM EST 8:00 - 10:00PM CST 7:00 - 9:00PM MST 6:00 - 8:00PM PST All the particulars can be found at: http://www.fpqrp.com/fpqrprun.html Again this month, the top three point grabbers will receive a certificate heralding their achievement. 72/3 es a hearty oo Larry W2LJ Flying Pig #612 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS K2 K1 PS
Yep selling the elecraft K2... K2 HF Transceiver #3183 with: 20W Internal Auto Tuner SSB Option Audio filter/Real Time Clock 160M / 2nd RX Antenna Option Internal 2.9AH Battery Kit AUX I/O RS-232 Interface Noise Blanker MD-2 Microphone K2/100 with 150W ATU Remote enclosure. Manuals, mic, cables etc. $1400.00 usd co/usa only Elecraft K1 #382 with: Four-Band 5W CW Transceiver 40-30-20-15 meters Internal Automatic Antenna Tuner Internal Battery Adapter Additional Two-Band Module 40-20 meters Noise Blanker $300.00 usd co/usa only Astron RS 35M $100.00 usd + shipping Make me an resonable offer, want to biuld a new radio, shipped UPS from 20109. -- From the desk of Dwight ai4ii ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
SV: [Elecraft] Safe way to remove excess flux?
Hi Jeff, I have always used the Prozone pen from the manufacturers of the Mulicore solder company. The pen contains flux solvent in an easily applicable felt-tip dispenser. Ideal for small areas. Whilst on the subject of soldering topics, I would also like to say that the same company sells something called 'TTC' - Tip Tinner Cleaner which is a great way to both clean the tip of a soldering iron and tin prior to a new operation. This comes in a small tin, about 1/2 ounce. I have used this to make two complete K2 with all options and have used about one third of the tin. Of course, (apart from having used Multicore for about fifty years as a customer), I have no commercial interest. 73, Ray / SM0XLP -Ursprungligt meddelande- Från: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] För jrb Skickat: den 19 november 2005 20:00 Till: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Ämne: [Elecraft] Safe way to remove excess flux? Can any of you folks recommend a safe way to remove excess flux from a PCB? TIA, Jeff KG6ZVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] What we have here is a failure to oscillate.
Help! I just finished the XG-2 and I get no output. As a veteran of a K2, KX1, and another K2 almost completed, I am humbled by this dilemma. I welcome your troubleshooting advice. regards ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
Hi, I finally did a first prototype of an interface to link two K2/KPA100 on one multi-band HF antenna using Don W3FPR schematic. For my first from scratch project, it is not too bad. I first began to do a PCB. I used two fast SPDT 16A relays from Omron and SO-239 connectors are Amphenol. I will try it tonight But on the bench test, everything was working fine... Maybe I will need to put a few caps to filter some RF, I'm not sure I will tell you later tonight. This is my first prototype version... My « main goal » is to have a interface like this one, but also one mic and one paddle for 2 radios. Unfortunatly, I forgot to take picture of my PCB. But I will put Don's schematic on my website this week. Take a look... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum55.html 73 P.S. Many thanks to Don W3FPR for his help. ;-) = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ FISTS #11896 Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 L20 questions
I'm looking over my ebay purchased K2 trying to determine what might cause HI-CUR alarms during transmit. Two problems: T4 is wound with green wire, and only green wire which makes it difficult to check the turns ratio! Looks like I'll have to remove it and rewind it. The other visible 'problem' is L20. For some reason it is a physically smaller toroid than the others (L16, L17, L18, L19). Is this a problem? The coloring is the same, grey overall with a red band on the outer edge. It seems to me that physical size should matter in this case. Mark AD5SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
Just to make sure I'm clear on my message... this interface is made for listening on two radios at the same time from one antenna. But when one radio transmit, the other in mute by putting it's antenna on ground and vice-versa. Le 05-11-19 à 18:02, JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD a écrit : Hi, I finally did a first prototype of an interface to link two K2/ KPA100 on one multi-band HF antenna using Don W3FPR schematic. For my first from scratch project, it is not too bad. I first began to do a PCB. I used two fast SPDT 16A relays from Omron and SO-239 connectors are Amphenol. I will try it tonight But on the bench test, everything was working fine... Maybe I will need to put a few caps to filter some RF, I'm not sure I will tell you later tonight. This is my first prototype version... My « main goal » is to have a interface like this one, but also one mic and one paddle for 2 radios. Unfortunatly, I forgot to take picture of my PCB. But I will put Don's schematic on my website this week. Take a look... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum55.html 73 P.S. Many thanks to Don W3FPR for his help. ;-) = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ FISTS #11896 Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 L20 questions
What is CAL CUR set to? HI CUR may be normal. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Bayern Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2005 6:19 PM To: Elecraft Discussion List Subject: [Elecraft] K2 L20 questions I'm looking over my ebay purchased K2 trying to determine what might cause HI-CUR alarms during transmit. Two problems: T4 is wound with green wire, and only green wire which makes it difficult to check the turns ratio! Looks like I'll have to remove it and rewind it. The other visible 'problem' is L20. For some reason it is a physically smaller toroid than the others (L16, L17, L18, L19). Is this a problem? The coloring is the same, grey overall with a red band on the outer edge. It seems to me that physical size should matter in this case. Mark AD5SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
I'm not a so2r kinda guy, but I've read that stereo will help. Seems reasonable - If the left ear hears CQ, answer with the left radio. Anyhow, you may want to do some AF-OUT magic in the same box. You'd probably want a switch for selecting what it does. Maybe K2#1 in left, K2#2 in right or Last-To-Transmit in both and the other in the corresponding single ear, or something else alltogether. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2005 6:36 PM Cc: Elecraft - Maling List Elecraft - Mailing List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype! Just to make sure I'm clear on my message... this interface is made for listening on two radios at the same time from one antenna. But when one radio transmit, the other in mute by putting it's antenna on ground and vice-versa. Le 05-11-19 à 18:02, JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD a écrit : Hi, I finally did a first prototype of an interface to link two K2/ KPA100 on one multi-band HF antenna using Don W3FPR schematic. For my first from scratch project, it is not too bad. I first began to do a PCB. I used two fast SPDT 16A relays from Omron and SO-239 connectors are Amphenol. I will try it tonight But on the bench test, everything was working fine... Maybe I will need to put a few caps to filter some RF, I'm not sure I will tell you later tonight. This is my first prototype version... My « main goal » is to have a interface like this one, but also one mic and one paddle for 2 radios. Unfortunatly, I forgot to take picture of my PCB. But I will put Don's schematic on my website this week. Take a look... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum55.html 73 P.S. Many thanks to Don W3FPR for his help. ;-) = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ FISTS #11896 Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
There is one important step in the construction of the circuit that should make it work well. Now it is important to take this step... What is the step? Contact W6FB in the Phone Sweepstakes - I need the VA2 QSO! :-) :-) :-) Good luck making it run. Don and I had fun collaborating on that one... On Nov 19, 2005, at 3:02 PM, JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD wrote: Hi, I finally did a first prototype of an interface to link two K2/ KPA100 on one multi-band HF antenna using Don W3FPR schematic. For my first from scratch project, it is not too bad. I first began to do a PCB. I used two fast SPDT 16A relays from Omron and SO-239 connectors are Amphenol. I will try it tonight But on the bench test, everything was working fine... Maybe I will need to put a few caps to filter some RF, I'm not sure I will tell you later tonight. This is my first prototype version... My « main goal » is to have a interface like this one, but also one mic and one paddle for 2 radios. Unfortunatly, I forgot to take picture of my PCB. But I will put Don's schematic on my website this week. Take a look... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum55.html 73 P.S. Many thanks to Don W3FPR for his help. ;-) = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ FISTS #11896 Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
Yes folks, Jack and I collaborated on the design of this one. I started with a few logic gates, and Jack kept saying 'do it with no active devices - anyway, you can see the result in Jean-Francois website and judge for yourself. Since Jean-Francois gave me credit in his posts, I thought I should pass along extra credit where it is due, and Jack deserves it. BTW, if I ever get both my K2s to the operating position instead of one in th eworkshop and the other for operating, I will be using this arrangement myself - not fully SO2R, but a reasonable compromise suitable for my operating. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- There is one important step in the construction of the circuit that should make it work well. Now it is important to take this step... What is the step? Contact W6FB in the Phone Sweepstakes - I need the VA2 QSO! :-) :-) :-) Good luck making it run. Don and I had fun collaborating on that one... On Nov 19, 2005, at 3:02 PM, JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD wrote: Hi, I finally did a first prototype of an interface to link two K2/ KPA100 on one multi-band HF antenna using Don W3FPR schematic. For my first from scratch project, it is not too bad. I first began to do a PCB. I used two fast SPDT 16A relays from Omron and SO-239 connectors are Amphenol. I will try it tonight But on the bench test, everything was working fine... Maybe I will need to put a few caps to filter some RF, I'm not sure I will tell you later tonight. This is my first prototype version... My « main goal » is to have a interface like this one, but also one mic and one paddle for 2 radios. Unfortunatly, I forgot to take picture of my PCB. But I will put Don's schematic on my website this week. Take a look... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum55.html 73 P.S. Many thanks to Don W3FPR for his help. ;-) = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ FISTS #11896 Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB === ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.4/175 - Release Date: 11/18/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
Ho ! Thank to Jack also. I was't know... :-( ;-) Check this one... I put my K2 on one connector and my FT-817 on the other. I found something interresting When I have my K2 on 80m and my FT-817 on 40m, everything is OK. But when I put my FT-817 on the same band or on a band lower than 80m... i.e. 160M, I loose approx. 3db on receive on my K2. I checked this with XG1 oscillator When indicating S9 on my K2, when I switch the FT-817 on the same band, I loose 1 S unit on the K2 instantly Any idea ? Le 05-11-19 à 21:23, Don Wilhelm a écrit : Yes folks, Jack and I collaborated on the design of this one. I started with a few logic gates, and Jack kept saying 'do it with no active devices - anyway, you can see the result in Jean-Francois website and judge for yourself. Since Jean-Francois gave me credit in his posts, I thought I should pass along extra credit where it is due, and Jack deserves it. BTW, if I ever get both my K2s to the operating position instead of one in th eworkshop and the other for operating, I will be using this arrangement myself - not fully SO2R, but a reasonable compromise suitable for my operating. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- There is one important step in the construction of the circuit that should make it work well. Now it is important to take this step... What is the step? Contact W6FB in the Phone Sweepstakes - I need the VA2 QSO! :-) :-) :-) Good luck making it run. Don and I had fun collaborating on that one... On Nov 19, 2005, at 3:02 PM, JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD wrote: Hi, I finally did a first prototype of an interface to link two K2/ KPA100 on one multi-band HF antenna using Don W3FPR schematic. For my first from scratch project, it is not too bad. I first began to do a PCB. I used two fast SPDT 16A relays from Omron and SO-239 connectors are Amphenol. I will try it tonight But on the bench test, everything was working fine... Maybe I will need to put a few caps to filter some RF, I'm not sure I will tell you later tonight. This is my first prototype version... My « main goal » is to have a interface like this one, but also one mic and one paddle for 2 radios. Unfortunatly, I forgot to take picture of my PCB. But I will put Don's schematic on my website this week. Take a look... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum55.html 73 P.S. Many thanks to Don W3FPR for his help. ;-) = /¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\/¯\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD V A 2 V Y Z \_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/ FISTS #11896 Elecraft K2 #4130 Elecraft KX1 #999 http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -Jack Brindle, W6FB = == ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.4/175 - Release Date: 11/18/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD wrote: I finally did a first prototype of an interface to link two K2/KPA100 on one multi-band HF antenna using Don W3FPR schematic. For my first from scratch project, it is not too bad. snip Take a look... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum55.html The only thing that bothers me about this circuit is that if the Amp Key output from either K2 is disconnected for any reason, transmitting on the other one will put RF into the front end of the first one. I thought of several ways to make the circuit fail-safe with a few logic gates, but I'll leave it to the real circuit designers to suggest the best way. I would suggest using the 8r signals from the K2s in addition to the amp-key output. The 8r is on in receive mode, and you could arrange things so that unless either an 8r signal or amp-key ground is present, that K2 will always be connected to the dummy load. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
Vic K2VCO wrote: The only thing that bothers me about this circuit is that if the Amp Key output from either K2 is disconnected for any reason, transmitting on the other one will put RF into the front end of the first one. I *should* have said: if the amp-key output of radio 1 is disconnected, transmitting on radio 1 will put RF into radio 2...and vice versa. And it's very easy to forget to plug something in, I do it all the time! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Safe way to remove excess flux?
Jeff: Despite all the advice you may get, there is really only one proper way to remove excess flux. It is a long, drawn out process that requires a minimum of the following ingredients: small horse-hair brush small wire brush isopropyl alcohol (100%) 100 proof vodka (any brand) small turkey baster little leather pouch butane lighter a few toothpicks several candles You can find most of these items in your local hardware store and any friendly kitchen supply store. Place your PCB down on the counter with the trace side down. Examine carefully all top-side components to check for those that are open and could trap liquid. This might include such items as tuning cans, pots, switches, connectors, and the like. Light one candle (using the butane lighter), and let the wax drip into all these components. This will keep the cleaning liquids from entering and possibly ruining them. Beeswax candles are reputed to be the best for this use. Now turn the board over and, in your mind, map out a small section (approximately 1/20th) of the board for initial treatment. Some experienced techs say that even smaller sections may be better. You might start with a section that doesn't have too much excess flux, just to get the procedure in hand in a spot of little consequence. Using the small leather pouch, soak one corner with the alcohol and place it into the candle flame (still burning). Let the corner char slightly before blowing it out. Put a small amount of alcohol on the horse-hair brush and swipe it back and forth over the burnt area of the leather pouch to collect some of the carbonized char on its tip. Brush this mixture onto the selected area, which has the unfortunate side effect of making it somewhat darker and more difficult to see. So, using the small wire brush, lightly pass it back and forth over the area until the darkness is removed. A lighted magnifier is of help here if you have one. If it doesn't come up right away, you may rub a little harder. Break a toothpick in half and use the ragged ends to clear the treated area of all residue to see if the flux remains. If it does, use more pressure with the wire brush. You are okay as long as you can still see remnants of the trace and/ or pads being treated. Take a swig of the vodka and continue by darkening the next section. Proceed, repeating all of the above steps, section by section, until you have completed the entire board. Most people feel quite relaxed about the process after completing five or six sections, and just about everyone I know who has tried this is thoroughly satisfied when finished. I have still never figured out exactly what the Turkey baster is for, but perhaps it is simply a symbolic souvenir for those who don't simply leave the excess flux alone. best wishes, david belsley, w1euy ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
I know Vic. Another way to do it, will be to supply both relays to receive. So if no Amp key present or no 12V, or... By default, it could be connected to a dummy load There are many ways to do this, with different danger level Le 05-11-19 à 21:40, Vic K2VCO a écrit : JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD wrote: I finally did a first prototype of an interface to link two K2/ KPA100 on one multi-band HF antenna using Don W3FPR schematic. For my first from scratch project, it is not too bad. snip Take a look... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum55.html The only thing that bothers me about this circuit is that if the Amp Key output from either K2 is disconnected for any reason, transmitting on the other one will put RF into the front end of the first one. I thought of several ways to make the circuit fail-safe with a few logic gates, but I'll leave it to the real circuit designers to suggest the best way. I would suggest using the 8r signals from the K2s in addition to the amp-key output. The 8r is on in receive mode, and you could arrange things so that unless either an 8r signal or amp-key ground is present, that K2 will always be connected to the dummy load. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Safe way to remove excess flux?
David, You forgot something important (it requires firewood and matches in addition to your other ingredients) - just after the Vodka step, add: build and light a campfire, and dance around it chanting flux go 'way, flux go 'way, flux go 'way. Do that forward and backwards ten times, and the flux spell will surely be broken. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Jeff: Despite all the advice you may get, there is really only one proper way to remove excess flux. It is a long, drawn out process that requires a minimum of the following ingredients: small horse-hair brush small wire brush isopropyl alcohol (100%) 100 proof vodka (any brand) small turkey baster little leather pouch butane lighter a few toothpicks several candles You can find most of these items in your local hardware store and any friendly kitchen supply store. Place your PCB down on the counter with the trace side down. Examine carefully all top-side components to check for those that are open and could trap liquid. This might include such items as tuning cans, pots, switches, connectors, and the like. Light one candle (using the butane lighter), and let the wax drip into all these components. This will keep the cleaning liquids from entering and possibly ruining them. Beeswax candles are reputed to be the best for this use. Now turn the board over and, in your mind, map out a small section (approximately 1/20th) of the board for initial treatment. Some experienced techs say that even smaller sections may be better. You might start with a section that doesn't have too much excess flux, just to get the procedure in hand in a spot of little consequence. Using the small leather pouch, soak one corner with the alcohol and place it into the candle flame (still burning). Let the corner char slightly before blowing it out. Put a small amount of alcohol on the horse-hair brush and swipe it back and forth over the burnt area of the leather pouch to collect some of the carbonized char on its tip. Brush this mixture onto the selected area, which has the unfortunate side effect of making it somewhat darker and more difficult to see. So, using the small wire brush, lightly pass it back and forth over the area until the darkness is removed. A lighted magnifier is of help here if you have one. If it doesn't come up right away, you may rub a little harder. Break a toothpick in half and use the ragged ends to clear the treated area of all residue to see if the flux remains. If it does, use more pressure with the wire brush. You are okay as long as you can still see remnants of the trace and/ or pads being treated. Take a swig of the vodka and continue by darkening the next section. Proceed, repeating all of the above steps, section by section, until you have completed the entire board. Most people feel quite relaxed about the process after completing five or six sections, and just about everyone I know who has tried this is thoroughly satisfied when finished. I have still never figured out exactly what the Turkey baster is for, but perhaps it is simply a symbolic souvenir for those who don't simply leave the excess flux alone. best wishes, david belsley, w1euy ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.4/175 - Release Date: 11/18/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
Vic, Such fail-safe mechanisisms can certainly be devised if deemed necessary. The 8R signal mentioned is actually the inverse of the Amp-Key line, so that signal can be produced with an inverter and no additional connections to the internals of the K2. One of the goals was to do the job with no active devices, and such fail-safe mechanisms were not considered. One of the ways to accomplish such 'fail-safe' operation is to inhibit keying (or PTT) until all other conditions are properly satisfied, but the problem with that solution is - it requires some kind of external stimulus to initiate the transmit state for the K2 (i.e. the chicken and the egg controversy). If one inhibits the paddle and PTT inputs to the K2, that K2 will never enter the transmit state and activate the Amp-Keying signal - the only way to make that work is to accept an external 'start' input, such as a footswitch or other similar input. The CW PTT circuit on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com does exactly that task and could be used if such safety features are deemed necessary. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD wrote: I finally did a first prototype of an interface to link two K2/KPA100 on one multi-band HF antenna using Don W3FPR schematic. For my first from scratch project, it is not too bad. snip Take a look... http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum55.html The only thing that bothers me about this circuit is that if the Amp Key output from either K2 is disconnected for any reason, transmitting on the other one will put RF into the front end of the first one. I thought of several ways to make the circuit fail-safe with a few logic gates, but I'll leave it to the real circuit designers to suggest the best way. I would suggest using the 8r signals from the K2s in addition to the amp-key output. The 8r is on in receive mode, and you could arrange things so that unless either an 8r signal or amp-key ground is present, that K2 will always be connected to the dummy load. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Safe way to remove excess flux?
Well, Don, I didn't want to get really involved for fear of making it too complicated. But, of course, you are right. It's certainly what I do. In fact, I find the process works so well that I often clean a given PCB several times. best wishes, dave On Nov 19, 2005, at 10:14 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: David, You forgot something important (it requires firewood and matches in addition to your other ingredients) - just after the Vodka step, add: build and light a campfire, and dance around it chanting flux go 'way, flux go 'way, flux go 'way. Do that forward and backwards ten times, and the flux spell will surely be broken. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Jeff: Despite all the advice you may get, there is really only one proper way to remove excess flux. It is a long, drawn out process that requires a minimum of the following ingredients: small horse-hair brush small wire brush isopropyl alcohol (100%) 100 proof vodka (any brand) small turkey baster little leather pouch butane lighter a few toothpicks several candles You can find most of these items in your local hardware store and any friendly kitchen supply store. Place your PCB down on the counter with the trace side down. Examine carefully all top-side components to check for those that are open and could trap liquid. This might include such items as tuning cans, pots, switches, connectors, and the like. Light one candle (using the butane lighter), and let the wax drip into all these components. This will keep the cleaning liquids from entering and possibly ruining them. Beeswax candles are reputed to be the best for this use. Now turn the board over and, in your mind, map out a small section (approximately 1/20th) of the board for initial treatment. Some experienced techs say that even smaller sections may be better. You might start with a section that doesn't have too much excess flux, just to get the procedure in hand in a spot of little consequence. Using the small leather pouch, soak one corner with the alcohol and place it into the candle flame (still burning). Let the corner char slightly before blowing it out. Put a small amount of alcohol on the horse-hair brush and swipe it back and forth over the burnt area of the leather pouch to collect some of the carbonized char on its tip. Brush this mixture onto the selected area, which has the unfortunate side effect of making it somewhat darker and more difficult to see. So, using the small wire brush, lightly pass it back and forth over the area until the darkness is removed. A lighted magnifier is of help here if you have one. If it doesn't come up right away, you may rub a little harder. Break a toothpick in half and use the ragged ends to clear the treated area of all residue to see if the flux remains. If it does, use more pressure with the wire brush. You are okay as long as you can still see remnants of the trace and/ or pads being treated. Take a swig of the vodka and continue by darkening the next section. Proceed, repeating all of the above steps, section by section, until you have completed the entire board. Most people feel quite relaxed about the process after completing five or six sections, and just about everyone I know who has tried this is thoroughly satisfied when finished. I have still never figured out exactly what the Turkey baster is for, but perhaps it is simply a symbolic souvenir for those who don't simply leave the excess flux alone. best wishes, david belsley, w1euy ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.4/175 - Release Date: 11/18/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
Don Wilhelm wrote: Such fail-safe mechanisisms can certainly be devised if deemed necessary. The 8R signal mentioned is actually the inverse of the Amp-Key line, so that signal can be produced with an inverter and no additional connections to the internals of the K2. Amp-key is derived from 8r and is in some sense the inverse of it, but neither 8r not amp-key are high/low outputs. They both have one state which is indistinguishable from 'disconnected'. If you use amp-key by itself you can't distinguish between these situations: 1) Amp-key output is open and the K2 is receiving; and 2) Amp-key output is accidentally disconnected and the K2 is transmitting. 8r by itself can't distinguish between 1) 8r is open and the K2 is transmitting; and 2) 8r appears open (accidentally disconnected) and the K2 is receiving. So I suggest adding logic *inside* each rig to assert a signal (called 'safe') only when 8r is on or amp-key is not grounded. Then you would connect safe and amp-key to the interface. The interface would connect rig 1 to the antenna only when rig 2 is asserting safe and not grounding amp-key, and vice-versa. Now let's see what happens when things get disconnected. If you disconnect rig 2's safe line, rig 1 will always be disconnected from the antenna. If you disconnect rig 2's amp-key then safe will still go low when rig 2 transmits (because of the logic inside rig 2), disconnecting rig 1 from the antenna. And vice versa. Of course, then you would have to turn on both K2s to listen to either one of them. I am still trying to figure out a way to avoid this without losing the fail-safe nature of the system! One of the ways to accomplish such 'fail-safe' operation is to inhibit keying (or PTT) until all other conditions are properly satisfied I think the complications/limitations that this introduces are worse than turning on both radios! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Elecraft K1 Backlight Rocks!
Hello all, Today I installed the backlight option in my K1. I looks so cool! I now will be able to see what frequency etc I'm on at night. This will come in real handy for the next Polar Bear Moonlight Madness Event. Yeah, the moon is bright, but not that bright. I now will be able to operate my K1 in my tent on the AT at night too. My old K1 (s/n 31) never looked so good! Maybe I'll install that antenna tuner next? 72, Ed, WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 2 radios, 1 antenna... finally a prototype!
Vic, What you say is certainly true - it does take two redundant signals to provide a fail-safe mechanism that includes one of the signals being disconnected. We all must examine the exposures and weigh them against the risks of using simpler, but less protected solutions. There is a compromise in there somewhere, and each implementer must make his own decisions based on his own risk assessments. As we used to say in my engineering group - 'You can endeavor to make it foolproof, but then some 'fool' will still break it'. Your level of risk acceptance is uniquely yours - do whatever is needed to produce a risk level that is acceptable to you. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Don Wilhelm wrote: Such fail-safe mechanisisms can certainly be devised if deemed necessary. The 8R signal mentioned is actually the inverse of the Amp-Key line, so that signal can be produced with an inverter and no additional connections to the internals of the K2. Amp-key is derived from 8r and is in some sense the inverse of it, but neither 8r not amp-key are high/low outputs. They both have one state which is indistinguishable from 'disconnected'. If you use amp-key by itself you can't distinguish between these situations: 1) Amp-key output is open and the K2 is receiving; and 2) Amp-key output is accidentally disconnected and the K2 is transmitting. 8r by itself can't distinguish between 1) 8r is open and the K2 is transmitting; and 2) 8r appears open (accidentally disconnected) and the K2 is receiving. So I suggest adding logic *inside* each rig to assert a signal (called 'safe') only when 8r is on or amp-key is not grounded. Then you would connect safe and amp-key to the interface. The interface would connect rig 1 to the antenna only when rig 2 is asserting safe and not grounding amp-key, and vice-versa. Now let's see what happens when things get disconnected. If you disconnect rig 2's safe line, rig 1 will always be disconnected from the antenna. If you disconnect rig 2's amp-key then safe will still go low when rig 2 transmits (because of the logic inside rig 2), disconnecting rig 1 from the antenna. And vice versa. Of course, then you would have to turn on both K2s to listen to either one of them. I am still trying to figure out a way to avoid this without losing the fail-safe nature of the system! One of the ways to accomplish such 'fail-safe' operation is to inhibit keying (or PTT) until all other conditions are properly satisfied I think the complications/limitations that this introduces are worse than turning on both radios! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening Folks, Another week has passed; this one was pretty nice in the Pacific Northwest. I know you will not believe me but we are on a run of sunny days. It is surprising but true. The sky is full of many, many stars tonight while Venus and Mars shone brightly. Venus has set but the Pleiadies are leading the Hyades which are guiding Orion into the sky. Quite nice in fact. I do need to drag the telescope out one of these evenings and get back into the habit of finding Messier objects and locating Herschel's list of interesting things. During the coldest part of the winter we are above the clouds so the few lights visible are obscured giving us very dark, transparent skies. On Thursday evening the foxes and hounds were no where to be heard. I am not sure if forty meters will work tomorrow night but I'll give it a shot. I don't expect much because the week before had incrementally better conditions but there were no check ins for my log. However, nothing ventured nothing gained as my mother used to tell me. So, taking Violet's (Mom to me) advice, I'll be plaintively calling CQ CQ ECN ECN DE KD5ONS QNI ? K for at least 15 minutes or until the last check in is heard. Please take the time to see if you can hear me and reply if that is your wont. Join us: Sunday 2400z (Sunday 4pm PST) 14050 kHz Monday 0300z (Sunday 7pm PST) 7045 kHz Visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for further details. Thank you for the web space Dan. Stay warm and enjoy the autumn skies, Kevin. KD5ONS -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.4/175 - Release Date: 11/18/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Argentina Station On 30m
I was just working an Argentina station on 30 meters on 10.11865 (RST 549) and he just disappeared. I listened to him work 2 other USA stations FB before me. I lost him right after our RST exchanges. Now I hear very weak voice communications on this frequency, can't tell what mode. Mark Saunders, KJ7BS Glendale, AZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
