[Elecraft] K2 AGC off problem

2006-03-08 Thread jo benoit
hi elecrafters,
I received a new 5.068 Mhz Xtal and replaced the X1 on
the control board.
The Audio is not muted any more when I turn the AGC
off.
Thank you Ken K3IU, Bill WU0R, and Gary, Scott and
Brian at Elecraft service/parts.
73 de ON5AO K2#5237
joe 

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[Elecraft] Receiver comparison K2 v FT1000mp

2006-03-08 Thread David Douglass
I've recently completed my second K2 and have been running some side by side
trials with my FT1000mp.

My first time around, the K2 was my only rig and having nothing to compare
it against I had an element of self doubt that something I put together
could perform as well as an off the shelf radio. In the end I sold the K2
and bought myself a FT1000mp, which I've had for a couple of years. To cut a
long story short I took the plunge and got another K2 a month back, and
since construction have been comparing the receiver against that of the
FT1000mp.

I've got no test gear to speak of, and have just been switching between the
two and comparing received signals by ear. What I can report is that at no
time were there signals on the bands that I could hear on the Yaesu that I
couldn't copy equally as well as on the K2. This is even listening to weak
and noisy 80m DX signals.

One major difference I did note between the 2 receivers was the overall
audio tone in my headphones of the background noise. It's hard to describe,
but when comparing the 2 radios using 500hz filter settings, it almost
sounded as if the filters on the K2 were much narrower. 

I was having a listen again today and decided to hook both radio's up
through the soundcard and compare them using spectrogram. Both radios were
set to 500hz filter settings (I have all of the optional filters installed
in the Yaesu), and again I switched between them and observed the display in
spectrogram. Lo and behold, the filter bandwidth on the K2 was roughly 500hz
as you would expect, but the FT1000mp showed a filter bandwidth in the
region of 800hz. 

I'd always run the Yaesu using the 500hz filters and liked the tone of the
radio, and I was wondering why I preferred a filter bandwidth on the K2
around 800hz... well now I know why!

I'll probably hang onto the FT1000mp, as I like all features and it performs
well, but it's good to know that the K2 (which cost less than the additional
filters in the Yaesu) can receive just as well.

Just another couple of observations... 

1. Along with some recent options I bought for the K2 I ordered a 'finger
dimple'. I must say it was $5 very well spent, as I definitely fall into the
camp of those who do not like the K2 tuning knob.

2. Also very impressed with internal ATU for the K2. I have a Cushcraft R8
vertical, which I have always struggled to tune on 80m (I know it is a 40-10
antenna). Even the KAT100 which I had first time around would not tune it.
Just for fun I tried the internal ATU tonight and it had no problems, and
whilst I was listening to the 80 I even managed to work 3D2(Rotuma) and
YJ(Vanuatu) using 10w CW. Good stuff !!

I hope I can make the trip and work of few of you in the EQP, although I'll
be primarily be having a go in the Commonwealth contest at the same time.

Regards

David, Vk2NU

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[Elecraft] No more RS232 ComPort!!!

2006-03-08 Thread res04nyt
I have purchased a new computer that has NO floppy disk drive and NO 
RS232 ports!I have


searched the archives and the only solution that I see is to buy a 
MicroHam USBII!!Does


anyone have another solution for attaching my K2/100 to my computer? Is 
there anything


cheaper than $132.54?

Timothy
KG6RII 


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Re: [Elecraft] No more RS232 ComPort!!!

2006-03-08 Thread John D'Ausilio
Why not a $15 USB-Serial adapter?

de w1rt

On 3/8/06, res04nyt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I have purchased a new computer that has NO floppy disk drive and NO
 RS232 ports!I have

 searched the archives and the only solution that I see is to buy a
 MicroHam USBII!!Does

 anyone have another solution for attaching my K2/100 to my computer? Is
 there anything

 cheaper than $132.54?

 Timothy
 KG6RII

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Re: [Elecraft] No more RS232 ComPort!!!

2006-03-08 Thread Earl W Cunningham
Timothy, KG6RII wrote:

anyone have another solution for attaching my K2/100 to my computer?  Is
there anything cheaper than $132.54?
==
Search the Web for usb to serial adapter and you'll get many hits for
much, much cheaper than that.

73, de Earl, K6SE
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 AGC off problem

2006-03-08 Thread jfedison
Joe,
I have the same problem with my AGC and when I replaced the 5.068MHz X1
the problem remained. I wonder if both crystals are bad or if there is
some other cause? In my case, when I turn off the AGC, the s-meter gets
pegged at +40 and the audio is muted. Did you change any other
components or did just replacing X1 the first time fix the problem?
Also, what value of RP6 is installed on your control board? My RP6 is a
4.7K network.

Thanks.
Jeff (K2#5210)

-Original Message- 
From: jo benoit
Sent: 3/8/2006 8:27:20 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 AGC off problem

hi elecrafters,
I received a new 5.068 Mhz Xtal and replaced the X1 on
the control board.
The Audio is not muted any more when I turn the AGC
off.
Thank you Ken K3IU, Bill WU0R, and Gary, Scott and
Brian at Elecraft service/parts.
73 de ON5AO K2#5237
joe 

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.
 
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[Elecraft] Driving a linear with only 15 watts?

2006-03-08 Thread Darwin, Keith
Since a linear amp is supposed to be linear, is there any reason that
you have to run 65 to 100 watts into one?  What if you used a linear
designed for 65 watt drive and only gave it 15 watts?  Does the spectral
purity change?  Does the efficiency drop?  Does the linearity degrade?
 
- Keith KD1E -
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[Elecraft] K2 AGC off problem

2006-03-08 Thread jo benoit
jeff (K2#5210),
I only changed the crystal X1, nothing else, and that
solved the problem . The value of RP6 is also 4.7 K.
73,
joe on5ao K2#5237


you wrote:
I have the same problem with my AGC and when I
replaced the 5.068MHz X1 the problem remained. I
wonder if both crystals are bad or if there is some
other cause? In my case, when I turn off the AGC, the
s-meter gets pegged at +40 and the audio is muted. Did
you change any other components or did just replacing
X1 the first time fix the problem? Also, what value of
RP6 is installed on your control board? My RP6 is a
4.7K network.


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Re: [Elecraft] Driving a linear with only 15 watts?

2006-03-08 Thread G8IFF/KC8NHF
Should work fine with proportiannally lower output. However, 15 watts 
might not be enough to hit the RF PTT in the amp so you ought to hard 
switch it.



Darwin, Keith wrote:

Since a linear amp is supposed to be linear, is there any reason that
you have to run 65 to 100 watts into one?  What if you used a linear
designed for 65 watt drive and only gave it 15 watts?  Does the spectral
purity change?  Does the efficiency drop?  Does the linearity degrade?
 
- Keith KD1E -


  



--

Nigel A. Gunn. 59 Beadlemead, Milton Keynes, MK6 4HF, England. 
Tel +44 (0)1908 604004   mobile +44 (0)7765 471661
e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] www  http://www.ngunn.net 
Amateur radio stations  G8IFF, KC8NHF

Member of  AMSAT-UK #182, ARRL, GQRP Club, QRPARCI, SOC #548,  RAYNET
  Flying Pig #385, Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA  LM-1691,  MKARS


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RE: [Elecraft] Driving a linear with only 15 watts?

2006-03-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Kieth,

If you have a true linear amplifier, you can always feed it with less power
than the power required for maximum output - if it produces 1000 watts with
100 watts in, it will produce 100 watts with 10 watts in (i.e. the power
gain should remain the same).
The spectral putity should either be unchanged or be better.

If the linearity degrades, it is not a real linear amplifier and it will
distort your SSB waveform when used - on CW there is only the carrier, and
any non-linear distortion would only show up if you graphed the input power
vs. output power.

Yes, do it if you have a linear amp.  The output efficiency should remain
the same, but if you consider the power pulled from the AC line vs. output
power (not usually calculated) the efficiency will be reduced.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Since a linear amp is supposed to be linear, is there any reason that
 you have to run 65 to 100 watts into one?  What if you used a linear
 designed for 65 watt drive and only gave it 15 watts?  Does the spectral
 purity change?  Does the efficiency drop?  Does the linearity degrade?

 - Keith KD1E -


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[Elecraft] K2/100 For Sale

2006-03-08 Thread Rick
Hello all, have finished my K2 with options and all turned out well. The only 
reason I am selling is due to the need for some more funds for my car 
restoration project, and I do have another rig. This K2 has 
KNB2,KSB2,KPA100,K160RX for options. All soldering was done with Hakko 936 
solder station and Hakko 808 for rework when installing options. The toroids 
were wound by me, using a solder pot for tinning leads. I also have a brand 
new in the box (unassembled) KAT100-1 which I will also sell if the radio 
sells. I would like to get what I paid for the components, (solder and labor 
free). Serial # is 52##. If anyone is interested please email offline. I have 
many photos as I was assembling.

73
Rick 
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Re: [Elecraft] No more RS232 ComPort!!!

2006-03-08 Thread Simon Brown (HB9DRV)
Warning!!! Cheap does not mean good. Get one that you know works, there are 
some cheap USB = serial adapters which will not handle a high data load. 
This is a common problem.


You can also get PCI cards with 2 COM ports, myself I have a PCI card with 
two serial ports and an external 4 port USB adapter.

Both are from Exsys, both work perfectly.

Simon Brown
---
http://blog.hb9drv.ch/

Programming today is a race between software engineers striving to build
bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the Universe trying to produce
bigger and better idiots. So far the Universe is winning. -- Rich Cook.

- Original Message - 
From: Earl W Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED]




Timothy, KG6RII wrote:

anyone have another solution for attaching my K2/100 to my computer?  Is
there anything cheaper than $132.54?
==
Search the Web for usb to serial adapter and you'll get many hits for
much, much cheaper than that.

73, de Earl, K6SE 


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RE: [Elecraft] No more RS232 ComPort!!!

2006-03-08 Thread Rich Lentz
I have had good luck with the one RadioShack sells.  Zonet ZUC3100 also
seems to work on both my laptop and desktop with everything I own. Be
careful - some do not provide all of the needed support output/inputs (CTS,
RTS, DTE, etc.). I had one that would lock up my laptop after loading the
needed driver and then plugging in the adapter. Another seemed to work
properly but would not talk to the Magellan GPS, even though it had no
problem talking to the K2. Thus make sure that where you buy it from has a
good return policy, and try it out on all serial devices you intend on using
within the return policy time limit.

Rich,
KE0X


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Twisted pair power wire

2006-03-08 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

I have a large spool of #26 stranded red and black twisted pair wire.
If anyone would like to buy some wire for projects etc, send me an email
direct - off the list. Makes great power wire for your low power
projects etc. I'm asking $.10/foot. If someone wants the entire spool of
around 1,000' plus, email me. I can bring the spool to Atlanticon.

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ


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Re: [Elecraft] CP1 Power Handling

2006-03-08 Thread Don Brown
Hi

I have both the 20 db and 30 db versions of the CP1. Even though the 20 db 
is not rated that high I have used it at 100 watts with no problems for 
short times. I use them with the OHR WM-2 wattmeter. To get it to go to 200 
watts you would at least need to increase the wattage of the terminating 
resistors on the CP1 and probably need to increase the core size on the 
toroids. Of course I have not done this so I am just guessing.

Don Brown
KD5NDB


- Original Message - 
From: Linden, Mike (BRC-Hes) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 8:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] CP1 Power Handling


  Does anyone know what modifications would need to be made to the CP1
Directional Coupler in order to get it to handle 200W at 20dB
attenuation?

  I'd like to use the CP1 as a cost effective means of extending the
useful range of my OHR WM-2 QRP Wattmeter, but 30dB is more attenuation
than I want and the power handling at 20dB is not high enough.

  Thanks, Michael N9BDF
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[Elecraft] General testing for key clicks: AGC

2006-03-08 Thread Linden, Mike (BRC-Hes)
  Should the receiver's AGC be disabled when testing a transmitter for
key clicks -- does it matter? Does it make the transmitter sound worse
or better?

  Michael  N9BDF  

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Re: [Elecraft] Driving a linear with only 15 watts?

2006-03-08 Thread Charles Greene

Darwin,

I have a linear that has about 1000 watts output when driven with 
approx. 60 watts in class AB2 for CW and a little more when operating 
class AB1 for SSB.  It's an old Hallicrafter HT33A with a PL172 
pentode amplifier tube.  I tried it using my K2/100 on PSK31 with 20 
watts average power from the K2/100.  The amp put out 400 watts ave 
power.  The IMD coming out of the amp was identical to the IMD of the 
K2/100 without the amp, indicating no more distortion was added by 
the amp.  I don't expect you to hunt for a HT33A, but the principles 
are the same.  The efficiency is lower because of the idling power, 
but since it is all coming out of the power line, who cares?


73,  Chas W1CG



At 11:13 AM 3/8/2006, Darwin, Keith wrote:

Since a linear amp is supposed to be linear, is there any reason that
you have to run 65 to 100 watts into one?  What if you used a linear
designed for 65 watt drive and only gave it 15 watts?  Does the spectral
purity change?  Does the efficiency drop?  Does the linearity degrade?

- Keith KD1E -
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[Elecraft] It's alive

2006-03-08 Thread Stephen W. Kercel

Fellow Elecrafters:

I got the K2 on the air today. What a wonderful rig!

73,

Steve Kercel
AA4AK
K2 S/N# 5383



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Re: [Elecraft] General testing for key clicks: AGC

2006-03-08 Thread Vic K2VCO

Linden, Mike (BRC-Hes) wrote:

  Should the receiver's AGC be disabled when testing a transmitter for
key clicks -- does it matter? Does it make the transmitter sound worse
or better?


I doubt that it matters.  What *does* matter is that you must listen 
*away* from the transmitter's frequency.


To check for clicks, use your narrowest filter and tune off the signal 
frequency, both up and down.  If the transmitter is producing clicks, 
you will hear them when the actual signal is outside the passband.  Some 
rigs produce clicks 3 or more KHz from the frequency.


Some people think that you check for clicks by listening to the signal 
and hearing how 'hard' it sounds.  This is not the case; you can easily 
soften the signal to your ear by using a narrow filter.  The real test 
is is the transmitter generating click energy away from the signal?

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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RE: [Elecraft] General testing for key clicks: AGC

2006-03-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Michael N9BDF asked:

  Should the receiver's AGC be disabled when testing a transmitter for key
clicks -- does it matter? Does it make the transmitter sound worse or
better?



Yes, AGC can make the clicks worse, but the BIG issue is to avoid putting
too much signal into the receiver. Unless your rig is no 'louder' (or
registers on the S-meter no higher) than other signals on the band when you
key your rig, what you hear is probably not what others hear. You'll hear
stuff that's not audible a few hundred feet from your shack. 

AGC attack characteristics can make clicks worse, and if you are hitting the
receiver too hard the receiver itself will produce clicks for you that
aren't on your signal. 

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] K2 RX-degraded by KAF2? VCO voltages at 160m

2006-03-08 Thread Jukka Tarvainen
Hello!

Very pleasant autumn/winter so far with K2/100 on the Topband.

Yesterday I took my K2 home for re-alignment. I noticed that KAF2 was making
my RX worse. I wonder, if there is some problem with low-pass filter or
other part of KAF? I will check soldering and components later. Audio filter
has been most unused option in my radio. Normally it doesn't help anything.
It doesn't help at all with weak signal RX. I left KAF2 out when I put radio
back together. I used unmodules to replace it.

Otherwise K2 seem to be now in better condition. I re-adjusted IF-amplifier.
Also did all CW filters with spectrogram. Now I set 1.5 k, 700, 450 and 100
Hz bandwidths. Before I had OPT1, 700, 400 and 200 Hz. Now I can hear
signals with 100 Hz setting, before at 200 Hz it was quite useless.

I also checked VCO voltage for 160m, never checked that after K160RX was
installed. I remember that it should be also 1.5 - 7.5 V. Bottom of band is
OK around 3.8 V, but when go up to 2000 kHz it is over 8 volts.It is below
7,5 V on the band segment which is used here (1900 kHz). Should I make
adjustment?

Waiting for better conditions to make more observations of re-aligned K2.

Jukka Tarvainen, OH4MFA
K2/100 #4293

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://personal.inet.fi/koti/oh4mfa


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[Elecraft] First experience with K1

2006-03-08 Thread ron
I got the rig ready for operation for the first time after wiring up 
a power supply with the 2 amp fuse in-line.


At the scheduled hour, the elecraft net began. I let the control 
station do his thing. I could not hear anyone but N0SS.
After a little while, still nervous about making the net for the 
first time (will he hear me?? will I get the exchange right?? is 
there life on Mars??).


I heard QNI? Wait, did I really?? blast it I'm going in ...
sending my call once, twice then holding my breath, I waited for 
like an hour (heh heh).


WB1HGA de N0SS ur 549 K  He heard me! Wow! Unh, lets see, yes give 
him report. He returns ur name? I give him my name. He returns ur 
state I give him my state. I'm thinking now, shouldn't I have done 
this in one transmission?? Duh! He returns ur serial number?? 
SERIAL NUMBER ??? Now I'm really shaking all over like Elvis Presley.
That's right dummy I said to myself, serial numbers are exchanged 
heah ... Duh!
I quickly send AS, he returns AS, reaching up to find the darn 
serial number, reading it upside down, then wrote it down. I sent 
the number then K,  unh? where is he?? I caught the display reading 
2 k's down from where I'm supposed to be. Rats! It moved when I 
looked for the serial number!
Quickly, I moved the dial and just caught him sending my call. Whew! 
zero beat then sent my serial number again. He returns QSL and 
proceeds to QNI again.


I left the station, settled into my easy chair and dwelled on that 
first K1 QSO.


Ron wb1hga
CW, an esoteric experience
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[Elecraft] Rework Eliminators

2006-03-08 Thread k4zm
Hello List:

I just finished building  K2  SN 5380, with no options,  for a gentleman in 
Virginia and he chose to have me install the Rework Eliminators.  This is 
the first of these I have installed and it sure is a nice feature and well 
worth the investment.  Now the addition of any options will only require to 
removal the Unmodule and plug in the new option since all the connectors 
and components are already in place  No more tearing the K2 apart to install 
the options.  This is really important when it comes to removing and 
replacing the final transistors heat sink.

Additionally I have purchased a set of the Unmodules for myself and when I 
get a K2 for repair I remove the options and install the unmodules and then 
make sure the K2 is working properly as a basic transceiver and then it is 
easy to add back on option at a time.  This sure helps in locating problems 
in a transceiver.

I strongly recommend the use of these after market products if you plan to 
add options to your K2 in the future.

73

Jim Younce K4ZM
K2  SN: 18 
K2 Field Tester
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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Polar Bear Quorum?

2006-03-08 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello fellow bears and all!

This Saturday is yet another PBMME! Look for WB3AAL, N7UN, NU3E and
WA3WSJ camping on the AT in PA at Round Head. We will be there Saturday
morning until Sunday morning/afternoon sometime. 
Maybe we can hold a Polar Bear Meeting? Do we have a quorum-hi!
Hope to work many from this beautiful spot. As always, I will hand out a
nice prize to my first contact. This month it's a very nice MINT
Canadian $2.00 Polar Bear Coin! Yes it's sealed and in a nice, small
black box. If you want a look at this nice coin, just go to my Polar
Bear Web Page. So listen up for PB #2 this weekend on 40m and 20m cw!

http://www.wa3wsj.com/files/PolarBear2006.html


72,
Ed, WA3WSJ
PB # 2 


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[Elecraft] Receiver comparison K2 v FT1000mp

2006-03-08 Thread Bill Tippett

VK2NU:

It's hard to describe, but when comparing the 2 radios
using 500hz filter settings, it almost sounded as if the
filters on the K2 were much narrower.

I belive the K2's filters are much narrower thanthe nominal 
indication.  KI6WX measured around 350 Hz

for both the 400 and 700 settings.

http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/Mod_To_Improve_K2_CW_Filter_Rejection.pdf

This is also consistent with p. 17 of ARRL's Expanded
Product Test for the K2:

Notes:
1. The crystal filter option selected was 700 Hz nominal bandwidth.
However, the actual bandwidth of the filter was considerably
narrower (about 350 Hz), making this option closer to the desired
500 Hz width than the 400 Hz option.

Having owned an MP for 6+ years, I really doubt the MP's
500 Hz filters are 800 Hz.  It sounds to me like your BW measurements
are off.  The K2 is definitely narrower than the MP but my guess is
you are actually hearing ~500 Hz (MP) versus ~350 Hz (K2).

73,  Bill  W4ZV 


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[Elecraft] K2 160m low output?

2006-03-08 Thread ON4WIX
Hi all

I finished building K2 s/n 5361 yesterday and managed to align it per the specs 
in the manual.
First tests (RX only) showed a wonderfully quiet receiver with good ears. TX 
is well within specs.
Encouraged by the FB results I started constructing the 160m extension today. 
No worries during assembly as far as I could see.
Then, after having installed the 160m PCB into the K2 I started the alignment 
procedure.With 2W out all was OK both on 160 and 80m, no problems peaking 
output power to about 2,5W. However, when I try to crank the output power up to 
10W as per the instructions on p9 of the installation manual, I am unable to 
get more than 5W output on 160m. 80m is OK.
I have tried the alternative frequencies for peaking. 2W out is OK all the 
time, but no more than 5W when I should be reading 10W out. Cal Cur is set at 
3.50A. Checked all solder joints, toroid winding numbers, what have you.

Any ideas?

Tnx fer all input

73 de ON4WIX Glenn
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[Elecraft] K2/100 Separates

2006-03-08 Thread Robert Cochrane
I am considering increasing the power of my bells and whistles QRP K2 
to 100w.  (Seems a long time to the next sunspot maximum and I am growing old).


Don and Lyle have given very helpful advice on building the power amp 
and auto tuner into a separate unit and I would like to follow this course.


Lyle does of course rightly add at your risk headers to his page.

My question is why there is no Elecraft kit of parts and stepwise 
instructions to provide for this requirement - it seems to be an 
obvious component of a modular system which can be used in the shack 
and mobile.  A factory approved set of instructions and components 
fills a market need.


Rob M0RAC
K2 3314

Robert A Cochrane
7 Lawn Terrace
Blackheath
London SE3 9LJ   UK

Tel (44) 020 8297 1978
Mob (44) 07764 197 701


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[NJQRP] (no subject)

2006-03-08 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Since this month is the last Polar Bear Moonlight Madness Event for the
year, I will leave you all with what I consider a special response to
the EPA QRP Club Polar Bear Program.

Mark, NK8Q PB #4 says it all:
It sure has been fun and without your previous adventures that you've
written about on the N3EPA webpage and the EPA QRP Club yahoo group I
likely would still be either operating mobile or sitting at home
listening to the radio in the home shack. There is so much more
enjoyment that I get out of operating from out in the field, though...

People - this is what amateur radio is all about! Having fun with fellow
hams and at the same time preparing yourself and your  equipment for
emergency service. So get out there and have some fun with us bears.
This past year has been a BLAST! To all the ops who take the time and
effort to work us bears - THANK YOU!

G!

http://www.n3epa.org

http://www.wa3wsj.com/files/PolarBear2006.html

THANK YOU ALL for the FUN and Fellowship!
Work me Saturday  Sunday on the AT

Ed, WA3WSJ
PB #2



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Re: [Elecraft] General testing for key clicks: AGC

2006-03-08 Thread Earl W Cunningham
Vic, K2VCO wrote:

I doubt that it matters.  What *does* matter is that you must listen
*away* from the transmitter's frequency...
==
Well put, Vic.  The only thing that should be added to Vic's procedure is
that you should keep the power output of the transmitter being tested
down enough so that the signal in the monitir receiver is S9 or less.

I've tested many rigs for klix monitoring in of my many ham receivers and
AGC on/off does not make a bit of difference, as long as you do it as Vic
and I described (which is the *only* proper way).

BTW, of the many rigs I've checked for klix, the K2 with the click mod is
the cleanest of all.  I believe the click mod is now incorporated in all
new K2 kits.

73, de Earl, K6SE
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Re: [Elecraft] next solar cycle: article

2006-03-08 Thread Joseph Reed
Stephen,
   
  I live in a very antenna challenged location.  I have a Butternut HF6V on a 
tiny city lot with lots of obstructions in the near field.  80 is a challenge 
for me.  And with the responsibilities of work and family I don't get to live 
on the radio.  With the Mojo that comes with every K2  I expect you are correct 
that the K2\100 could get the job done next winter.  But the MOAA could make it 
a lot easier.  Plus I need to justify the MOAA with the XYL :)  
   
  That said, there is a lot to say about the Butternut vertical.  Of the 307 I 
have confirmed I worked 306 on the vertical.  The only one I didn't was XZ and 
when I did the L4B blew the traps on the TA33. (I was max power at the time).
   
  73,
  Joe N9JR

Stephen W. Kercel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Joe:

I'd be very surprised if you'd need the MOAA to work 100 countries on 
80m. The K2 should handle it easily.
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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 Separates

2006-03-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rob,

I would guess that Elecraft folks are not ready to put up with the headaches
that could arise with the AUXBUS timing should someone want to put a 10 or
15 foot cable on a remote KPA100/KAT100-2 combination.  At the moment, those
folks have their hands full and do not have time to test it properly.  So if
I were in their shoes, I would not put out instructions for doing anything
that has not been adequately tested - the Elecraft name and reputation do
depend on the results.

That certainly should not limit an individual from trying it, if it doesn't
work, one can always revert to the 'standard' installation.  There are a
growing number of us who have mounted the KPA100 externally, and within the
implementation limits of those success stories, we can say what we have
found to work - my connecting cables are about 2 feet long, I can't speak
for anything longer and I don't have the KAT100-2 here, only the external
amp.

In my opinion, the 'kit of parts' to mount the KPA100 externally is in the
box of parts for the KAT100-2 - the KPA100 will plug nicely into the
provided connectors on the KAT100-2 board (except for the KPA100 speaker).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I am considering increasing the power of my bells and whistles QRP K2
 to 100w.  (Seems a long time to the next sunspot maximum and I am
 growing old).

 Don and Lyle have given very helpful advice on building the power amp
 and auto tuner into a separate unit and I would like to follow
 this course.

 Lyle does of course rightly add at your risk headers to his page.

 My question is why there is no Elecraft kit of parts and stepwise
 instructions to provide for this requirement - it seems to be an
 obvious component of a modular system which can be used in the shack
 and mobile.  A factory approved set of instructions and components
 fills a market need.

 Rob M0RAC
 K2 3314

 Robert A Cochrane
 7 Lawn Terrace
 Blackheath
 London SE3 9LJ   UK

 Tel (44) 020 8297 1978
 Mob (44) 07764 197 701


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[Elecraft] VFOs STUCK on 20m

2006-03-08 Thread Steve Banks
Hi Everyone,

I just completed doing the A-to-B upgrades on the RF board for K2 S/N 1599.
The rig is about 5 years old and has run very well heretofore.  In addition
to the A-to-B upgrades, I also installed new RF and SSB firmware, added
replacement crystals, and added the keying waveshape mod, VCO shielding, and
thermal stability mods.

As I was finishing up resetting the filters for the third or fourth time, I
discovered that both VFOs A and B are STUCK at one place on the 20m band.
Specifically, VFO A is stuck at 14100.00KHz and B is stuck at 14060.00KHz.
Neither will change frequency.  The LOCK button is not enabled, and all
bands display the requested 5, 6, or 7 digits.  

Twenty meters is the ONLY band exhibiting this STUCK behavior.  All others
are perfectly normal.  Both VFOs change as the VFO knob is turned on every
other band except 20m.  The STUCK 20m band VFOs also occur in all modes.

Anyone have a suggestion for resetting/fixing whatever I might have
dumb-thumbed so I can tune the 20m VFOs as I've always done?

Just FYI the STUCK 20m VFO situation did not show up until about the 4th or
5th hour the rig was operating after all the mods were finished.

Suggestions appreciated.

Steve Banks
K0PQ
K2 S/N 1599
KX1 S/N 00267


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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 Separates

2006-03-08 Thread Michael E. Dobson
There is one additional component that Don forgot and that is the 
replacement of one of the miniature RFC chokes on the KIO2 with a 
toroid equivalent.  I have suggested to Elecraft that they revise the 
KIO2 to use a toroid at that location to prevent problems with people 
(like me) who simply plugged everything into a KAT100-2 without 
benefit of any instructions other than the knowledge that it was 
easily done.  It worked fine for me for two years when a surge on the 
KIO2 lines between the K2 and the external KPA100 blew out the 
miniature RFC.  Four turns through an FT23-43 and a quick solder job 
and I was back in business.  AFAIK, that is the only gotcha to 
watch out for with remoting the KPA100.  There were even instructions 
for building the Y-cable to interconnect the base K2, the KPA100 and 
your computer in either the KIO2 or KPA100 manual.


73,
Mike WA3KYY

At 07:09 PM 3/8/2006, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Rob,

I would guess that Elecraft folks are not ready to put up with the headaches
that could arise with the AUXBUS timing should someone want to put a 10 or
15 foot cable on a remote KPA100/KAT100-2 combination.  At the moment, those
folks have their hands full and do not have time to test it properly.  So if
I were in their shoes, I would not put out instructions for doing anything
that has not been adequately tested - the Elecraft name and reputation do
depend on the results.

That certainly should not limit an individual from trying it, if it doesn't
work, one can always revert to the 'standard' installation.  There are a
growing number of us who have mounted the KPA100 externally, and within the
implementation limits of those success stories, we can say what we have
found to work - my connecting cables are about 2 feet long, I can't speak
for anything longer and I don't have the KAT100-2 here, only the external
amp.

In my opinion, the 'kit of parts' to mount the KPA100 externally is in the
box of parts for the KAT100-2 - the KPA100 will plug nicely into the
provided connectors on the KAT100-2 board (except for the KPA100 speaker).

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I am considering increasing the power of my bells and whistles QRP K2
 to 100w.  (Seems a long time to the next sunspot maximum and I am
 growing old).

 Don and Lyle have given very helpful advice on building the power amp
 and auto tuner into a separate unit and I would like to follow
 this course.

 Lyle does of course rightly add at your risk headers to his page.

 My question is why there is no Elecraft kit of parts and stepwise
 instructions to provide for this requirement - it seems to be an
 obvious component of a modular system which can be used in the shack
 and mobile.  A factory approved set of instructions and components
 fills a market need.

 Rob M0RAC
 K2 3314

 Robert A Cochrane
 7 Lawn Terrace
 Blackheath
 London SE3 9LJ   UK

 Tel (44) 020 8297 1978
 Mob (44) 07764 197 701


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Re: [Elecraft] No more RS232 ComPort!!!

2006-03-08 Thread Stuart Rohre
A lot of times you can make RS 232 work even without the handshake lines 
like CTS, DTR, RTS.

You loop back pin 4 to 5 of the 25 pin D connector, and you hook 6, 8, and 
20 together.  2, and 3 are your transmit and receive, and pin 7 is the 
common.

Pin 1 is chassis ground, but do not share it with 7.

For 9 pin RS 232, Google RS 232 hook up and you should get diagrams of 
connectors commonly used.

GL,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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[Elecraft] K2 into a linear

2006-03-08 Thread kf6hap
My K2 has been driving a homebrew linear, 2-811As, since 2000. A JFET 
elecrtonic T-R switch fed at the plate side of the tank is routed to 
the 160 meter Aux antenna input for relayless switching. Works great.

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Re: [Elecraft] Driving a linear with only 15 watts?

2006-03-08 Thread w2bvh

Very interesting.

What IMD values would you consider bad. ok and  excellent? As 
examples, QST July '03 rates the ICOM 703 transmit 3rd order IMD at  24 
db below PEP when running 10 watts. The March '06 QST shows the YAESU 
FTDX9000 3rd order IMD at  35 db below PEP when running 200 watts.


24 db below 10 watts is 40 mW +/-, a small but still respectable qrp 
signal that's rf junk.

24 db below 200 watts would be 1 watt +/- !

Is there an FCC mandated 3rd order IMD requirement?

Inquiring minds (at least mine) want to know ;-)

73,
Lenny W2BVH

Charles Greene wrote:


Darwin,

I have a linear that has about 1000 watts output when driven with 
approx. 60 watts in class AB2 for CW and a little more when operating 
class AB1 for SSB.  It's an old Hallicrafter HT33A with a PL172 
pentode amplifier tube.  I tried it using my K2/100 on PSK31 with 20 
watts average power from the K2/100.  The amp put out 400 watts ave 
power.  The IMD coming out of the amp was identical to the IMD of the 
K2/100 without the amp, indicating no more distortion was added by the 
amp.  I don't expect you to hunt for a HT33A, but the principles are 
the same.  The efficiency is lower because of the idling power, but 
since it is all coming out of the power line, who cares?


73,  Chas W1CG



At 11:13 AM 3/8/2006, Darwin, Keith wrote:


Since a linear amp is supposed to be linear, is there any reason that
you have to run 65 to 100 watts into one?  What if you used a linear
designed for 65 watt drive and only gave it 15 watts?  Does the spectral
purity change?  Does the efficiency drop?  Does the linearity degrade?

- Keith KD1E -
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[Elecraft] ECN - K6DGW/7 - 05 Mar 2006

2006-03-08 Thread Fred Jensen

Well, finally got home from the Cactus Intertie Annual Meeting.  Kevin
was much stronger on 20 from Lake Havasu City than here in N. Cal.  I
was at the pool at the Hampton Inn with my KX1 @ 1.7W (6 half-dead AA's
... I really need to prepare better for these events).  26' strung over
the umbrellas about 6.6' high, with 20' radial wrapped around the bottom
rung of the steel fence around the pool.  I thought about tossing it
INTO the pool but decided that wasn't a great idea since kids were
swimming and who knows what Mom and Dad would have thought.  Tom was
barely readable ... until he turned his beam SW, at which point he was
way too strong.  Sorry I sort of disappeared, I had a number of
onlookers and finally decided I needed to explain what I was doing
before they called Homeland Security on me.

WX: Clear and 75.  DRESS: Shorts and T-shirt.  I'm beginning to
understand the snowbird motivation.

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw

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[Elecraft] FS: Counter and 4 band K1 with tuner

2006-03-08 Thread Mike Czuhajewski
I am selling the following on behalf of W4LJD, a retired engineer who is
getting out of ham radio:

Elecraft K1 #00422
Internal antenna tuner
4 band module for 40, 30, 20, 15
Noise blanker
Has some sort of add-on, flip-down, single leg stand on the front, which
does not appear to be a current Elecraft product.

Asking $375 plus shipping.

Ramsey CT-90 counter, 600 MHz, $35 plus shipping. Includes wall wart power
supply.

Additional details provided on request. (All items will be shipped to US
addresses only.)

73 DE WA8MCQ


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Re: [Elecraft] next solar cycle: article

2006-03-08 Thread Stephen W. Kercel

Joe:

If you've worked 300+ with a loaded vertical, I tip my hat to you.

While 100 countries on 80m with 100 watts and a loaded vertical is 
likely doable, I agree with you, it would be a notable feat.


73,

Steve
AA4AK



At 06:38 PM 3/8/2006, Joseph Reed wrote:

Stephen,

I live in a very antenna challenged location.  I have a Butternut 
HF6V on a tiny city lot with lots of obstructions in the near 
field.  80 is a challenge for me.  And with the responsibilities of 
work and family I don't get to live on the radio.  With the Mojo 
that comes with every K2  I expect you are correct that the K2\100 
could get the job done next winter.  But the MOAA could make it a 
lot easier.  Plus I need to justify the MOAA with the XYL :)


That said, there is a lot to say about the Butternut vertical.  Of 
the 307 I have confirmed I worked 306 on the vertical.  The only one 
I didn't was XZ and when I did the L4B blew the traps on the TA33. 
(I was max power at the time).


73,
Joe N9JR

Stephen W. Kercel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Joe:

I'd be very surprised if you'd need the MOAA to work 100 countries on
80m. The K2 should handle it easily.



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RE: [Elecraft] VFOs STUCK on 20m

2006-03-08 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

You present a mystery.  There is nothing that I can think of or see in the
schematic that would cause the VFO to be stuck on only one band.  The VFO
lock is not something that is remembered across bands.

Is there any chance that the K2 is going into transmit on 20 meters?  If so,
the K2 will not change frequency while transmiting, but that is just a
guess, I cannot understand why it would be restricted to only one band
unless you have a bad case of RF feedback on 20 meters.

You might want to check the voltage at the left end of R30 for all bands
(VCO Range in the K2 manual) to see if the voltage changes as you turn the
VFO knob - if it does, then the VFO is tuning but the display is not
reflecting the change - I don't know how that could happen but it would be
informative.

Try direct frequency entry for a frequency in the 20 meter band first - if
you even consider doing a master reset, write down your filter and BFO
settings before doing it because they will all restore to the default
values.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I just completed doing the A-to-B upgrades on the RF board for K2
 S/N 1599.
 The rig is about 5 years old and has run very well heretofore.
 In addition
 to the A-to-B upgrades, I also installed new RF and SSB firmware, added
 replacement crystals, and added the keying waveshape mod, VCO
 shielding, and
 thermal stability mods.

 As I was finishing up resetting the filters for the third or
 fourth time, I
 discovered that both VFOs A and B are STUCK at one place on the 20m band.
 Specifically, VFO A is stuck at 14100.00KHz and B is stuck at 14060.00KHz.
 Neither will change frequency.  The LOCK button is not enabled, and all
 bands display the requested 5, 6, or 7 digits.

 Twenty meters is the ONLY band exhibiting this STUCK behavior.  All others
 are perfectly normal.  Both VFOs change as the VFO knob is turned on every
 other band except 20m.  The STUCK 20m band VFOs also occur in all modes.

 Anyone have a suggestion for resetting/fixing whatever I might have
 dumb-thumbed so I can tune the 20m VFOs as I've always done?

 Just FYI the STUCK 20m VFO situation did not show up until about
 the 4th or
 5th hour the rig was operating after all the mods were finished.

 Suggestions appreciated.

 Steve Banks
 K0PQ
 K2 S/N 1599
 KX1 S/N 00267



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