Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions
There is a new item from MFJ that people may find helpful when interfacing a
mic to the K2. Its an MFJ-655 mic equalizer/conditioner/preamp that is
supposed to interface any mic to just about any rig. It takes two types of
mic connectors and the jumpering is done in the MFJ-655. You can use the
standard setup with 2 pin jumper blocks in the K2 and not have to make any
changes there. I don't have one but I think I will buy it soon. Read about
it on the MFJ website.
73, Harvey KN6VP
- Original Message -
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 7:26 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions
Folks,
My advice on mic wiring - unless you must use the mics with multiple rigs,
wire the mic configuration header for the Elecraft mics, and then change
the
wiring at the mic plug to match the Elecraft configuration.
By doing that, it certainly simplifies things a whole lot. I see no sense
in wiring your Elecraft rig to work with a Yaesu mic (for instance) since
that slaves you forevermore to using the Yaesu mic wiring configuaration.
IMHO, if you have only an Elecraft station, the mic plugs should be wired
for the Elecraft configuration. -- If you must use the mics on multiple
rigs, then yes, I can understand that you might want to use that
manufacturers mic wiring on your K2 so you can connect any mic wired for
that rig, but lacking that, I say, change the mic wiring to the Elecraft
mic
wiring and you cannot go wrong.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
I've successfully completed the KSB2 module for my K2/100 through p. 16
in the manual, front panel PCB component installation.
Now it's time for mic configuration, p. 17. Winding toroids, soldering
multi-pin connectors and IC's, stuffing capacitors, etc.--those I don't
mind. However, when it comes to mic configuration and the possibility of
fouling up my K2 via an incorrectly-wired 5V line--that's when I get
jittery.
Here are the details:
1) Initial mic to be used: Kenwood MC-60
2) Eventual mic to be used: Radio Shack RS 33-1187 headset
3) P1 wiring method: N0SS's computer plug (thanks for the info on your
website, Tom) or two-pin jumpers--both are at hand.
After studying the KSB2 manual and reading postings in the Elecraft
reflector archives, here are some questions:
1) Several reflector postings mention that for Kenwood settings, just use
jumpers straight across for all the "Signal" and "Mic pin" connections.
However, on p. 18 under Kenwood mics, there's a note: "Do not connect
pin 5 unless mic has internal preamp," and another, "Leave pin 6 of the
mic unconnected."
I plead ignorance--does the MC-60 have an internal preamp? If it does,
according to the manual I should connect signal pin 6 to mic pin 5.
2) I've read a posting that mentions leaving the bottom slide switch on
the MC-60 "off." Done. Wonder if this negates the warning listed above
and I should just leave signal pin 6 ("5V") unconnected?
3) The MC-60 has two impedance settings, 50K and 500--is there a
preferred setting with the K2?
4) Any suggestions for wiring an 8-pin female mic plug from the RS
33-1187 that'll be compatible with Kenwood P1 settings?
Finally, it's been mentioned before but for those who need it here's the
Radio Shack part number for a package of ten two-pin jumpers: 276-1512.
73,
John, N7ON K2/100 S/N 5023
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 glitch finally found!
> Gary Surrency must be the most patient person on the earth. I'll second that. He and I have been going back and forth about the low audio problem with s/n 3641 for a month now. He's helped me find a bad cap in the AGC circuit, some questionable stuff in the BFO, and we're narrowing down a problem in the AF amp. I'm about to give in, though. I'm more interested in getting on the air than fixing this myself... Thanks, Gary. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 24-hour UTC Station Clock.
Keith KD1E wrote: When I got back into the hobby last fall I needed a clock. I looked at some fancy ones but ended up buying a radio shack travel alarm clock. It displays 24 hour time, is easy to read & set and even has a thermometer built in so I can see temps like 58F at the operating position. I think it cost less than $20 - I don't recall. It is one of those great little accessories that I'm really glad I bought. Yours has a thermometer?!? Guess I should upgrade my old RS travel clock I bought 8 or 9 years ago now. Problem is, the original AAA battery is still good, so I'll put it off for now. WWV updates it too. I tune in WWV on the shorwaves (Everyone remember how to do that with a K2? You press BAND+ and BAND- at the same time, then enter 1000.00 on the keypad on the right) and there's WWV telling me what time it is. I have to set my RS clock every month or two to keep it accurate to the minute. Bet Keith's has the same great feature for setting it. "Shortwaves" are fun and handy... Y'all check 'em out! Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions
Folks,
My advice on mic wiring - unless you must use the mics with multiple rigs,
wire the mic configuration header for the Elecraft mics, and then change the
wiring at the mic plug to match the Elecraft configuration.
By doing that, it certainly simplifies things a whole lot. I see no sense
in wiring your Elecraft rig to work with a Yaesu mic (for instance) since
that slaves you forevermore to using the Yaesu mic wiring configuaration.
IMHO, if you have only an Elecraft station, the mic plugs should be wired
for the Elecraft configuration. -- If you must use the mics on multiple
rigs, then yes, I can understand that you might want to use that
manufacturers mic wiring on your K2 so you can connect any mic wired for
that rig, but lacking that, I say, change the mic wiring to the Elecraft mic
wiring and you cannot go wrong.
73,
Don W3FPR
> -Original Message-
>
> I've successfully completed the KSB2 module for my K2/100 through p. 16
> in the manual, front panel PCB component installation.
>
> Now it's time for mic configuration, p. 17. Winding toroids, soldering
> multi-pin connectors and IC's, stuffing capacitors, etc.--those I don't
> mind. However, when it comes to mic configuration and the possibility of
> fouling up my K2 via an incorrectly-wired 5V line--that's when I get
> jittery.
>
> Here are the details:
>
> 1) Initial mic to be used: Kenwood MC-60
> 2) Eventual mic to be used: Radio Shack RS 33-1187 headset
> 3) P1 wiring method: N0SS's computer plug (thanks for the info on your
> website, Tom) or two-pin jumpers--both are at hand.
>
> After studying the KSB2 manual and reading postings in the Elecraft
> reflector archives, here are some questions:
>
> 1) Several reflector postings mention that for Kenwood settings, just use
> jumpers straight across for all the "Signal" and "Mic pin" connections.
> However, on p. 18 under Kenwood mics, there's a note: "Do not connect
> pin 5 unless mic has internal preamp," and another, "Leave pin 6 of the
> mic unconnected."
>
> I plead ignorance--does the MC-60 have an internal preamp? If it does,
> according to the manual I should connect signal pin 6 to mic pin 5.
>
> 2) I've read a posting that mentions leaving the bottom slide switch on
> the MC-60 "off." Done. Wonder if this negates the warning listed above
> and I should just leave signal pin 6 ("5V") unconnected?
>
> 3) The MC-60 has two impedance settings, 50K and 500--is there a
> preferred setting with the K2?
>
> 4) Any suggestions for wiring an 8-pin female mic plug from the RS
> 33-1187 that'll be compatible with Kenwood P1 settings?
>
> Finally, it's been mentioned before but for those who need it here's the
> Radio Shack part number for a package of ten two-pin jumpers: 276-1512.
>
> 73,
>
> John, N7ON K2/100 S/N 5023
>
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[Elecraft] How to REPLY? (to Elecraft List?)
This Elecraft mail-based list is a GREAT asset for this newbee. My previous experiences were with BB's and Forums. 1 Question: Let's say I'm reading the Elecraft list of mail, the most recent. And I see a set of messages I'd like to chime in on - HOW DO I DO IT. For example, lets say there are 6 messages in a sequence, dealing with some topic. And I'd like to reply with a response. HOW DO I DO IT? How do I "post" my 7th response in the series? I use simple yahoo.com mail. I stay away from Microsoft's OUTLOOK EXPRESS with a passion. Thanks, Fred N3CSY FL __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB Norcal BLT Tuner - I Found One - Thanks
I found a BLT Tuner. Thanks to all who replied to my original e-mail. Dick WB9PWQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] HF NOISE GENERATOR BY AC7AC/N0SS
Thank you for the list Don! Your comments are always full of wisdom and practical sense. They are indeed welcome. Take care. 73 Manuel LU5OM CT4IK - Original Message - From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Manuel Wilches" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 9:26 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] HF NOISE GENERATOR BY AC7AC/N0SS Proof that one does not have to have a sophisticated array of instruments to build and peak up things, often easy to build designs will provide a great aid to your array of tools that are usable. My list of 'indespensible tools' for your workbench: 1. DMM 2. Good non-reactive Dummy Load 3. RF Probe (the parts for one is provided with every K2 kit) 4. Signal generator (may be just a crystal oscillator - see the K2 manual Troubleshooting section) 5. Broadband Noise generator (see the N0SS generator - www.n0ss.com) 6. PC with soundcard loaded with Spectrogram. With these inexpensive tools, one can do a lot of alignment and diagnostic troubleshooting. If you wish to get more sophisticated, you can add 100 MHz scope with 10x probes Frequency counter Signal Generator(s) More exotic stuff like Spectrum Analyzers (and Vector Analyzers) are also good if you do a lot of homebrewing and experimenting. What I am saying is that a good workbench may be equipped with simple, inexpensive tools - there are two important points that I would like to add: 1. Know your tools and their limitations, and 2. Use your head along with knowledge of point 1 when doing analysis. Trust no tool until you know its capabilities and limitations. There is a lot of excellent information in the ARRL publication "Experimental Methods for RF Design" that can be put to use - the authors indicate how homebrew test equipment can be used to accomplish precision measurements. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hello all: I have built Ron's/Tom's HF Noise Generator inside a business cards plastic box (hi!)...it looks very uggly and works beautifully! For those of you who, like myself, have little or no instrumentation, do build the circuit and align your receiver with it. Its a great solution. Thank you Ron AC7AC and Tom N0SS 73 Manuel LU5OM CT4IK K2 # 5310 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Confessions of an idiot
Or the subject line could be why good house cleaning is a must. On Saturday I posted a message concerning my KAT100-2 not achieving a good SWR. I had the bottom off all weekend, reflowing solder, re-calibrating the SWR bridge. Pulling my head out. Two kind souls responded to my post, but neither offered the correct solution path. Even The Gary didn't point me to the correct path. Man last night I was depressed. And then I found it. I'm not an electronics guy, but I can play "Wayne Says" pretty good. Where I was building the stuff was on a birds eye maple table that normally hosts the Drake C-Line. I removed the C-Line and put a canvas cover over it to protect the table. When tinning toroids cr*p falls down. A miniscule piece, perhaps a 1/16 x 1/8 somehow got on the top of the board and was shorting C22. (Sorry don't know the metric for the VE/rest of the world.) Pull out the pick and remove it and the KAT100 was dead on. And I was looking on the bottom of the board not the top. It wasn't until I brought out the DVM and magnifiying glass to look at resistances across the toroids from the top that I discovered it. My confession will most likely cause my old pal WD9DHI to give me grief at the Cedarburg fest, well so be it. But if it helps one other person to avoid my angst it would be worth it. Bottom line - check both sides of the board. And stay clean. 73, Joe N9JR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KSB2 P1 Wiring Questions
Fellow Elecrafters--
I've successfully completed the KSB2 module for my K2/100 through p. 16
in the manual, front panel PCB component installation.
Now it's time for mic configuration, p. 17. Winding toroids, soldering
multi-pin connectors and IC's, stuffing capacitors, etc.--those I don't
mind. However, when it comes to mic configuration and the possibility of
fouling up my K2 via an incorrectly-wired 5V line--that's when I get
jittery.
Here are the details:
1) Initial mic to be used: Kenwood MC-60
2) Eventual mic to be used: Radio Shack RS 33-1187 headset
3) P1 wiring method: N0SS's computer plug (thanks for the info on your
website, Tom) or two-pin jumpers--both are at hand.
After studying the KSB2 manual and reading postings in the Elecraft
reflector archives, here are some questions:
1) Several reflector postings mention that for Kenwood settings, just use
jumpers straight across for all the "Signal" and "Mic pin" connections.
However, on p. 18 under Kenwood mics, there's a note: "Do not connect
pin 5 unless mic has internal preamp," and another, "Leave pin 6 of the
mic unconnected."
I plead ignorance--does the MC-60 have an internal preamp? If it does,
according to the manual I should connect signal pin 6 to mic pin 5.
2) I've read a posting that mentions leaving the bottom slide switch on
the MC-60 "off." Done. Wonder if this negates the warning listed above
and I should just leave signal pin 6 ("5V") unconnected?
3) The MC-60 has two impedance settings, 50K and 500--is there a
preferred setting with the K2?
4) Any suggestions for wiring an 8-pin female mic plug from the RS
33-1187 that'll be compatible with Kenwood P1 settings?
Finally, it's been mentioned before but for those who need it here's the
Radio Shack part number for a package of ten two-pin jumpers: 276-1512.
73,
John, N7ON K2/100 S/N 5023
P.S. Many thanks to Elecraft's Gary and Richard as well as to N6WG and
WB6TQG for their continued assistance with the KSB2, microphones, and
RTTY.
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RE: [Elecraft] HF NOISE GENERATOR BY AC7AC/N0SS
Proof that one does not have to have a sophisticated array of instruments to build and peak up things, often easy to build designs will provide a great aid to your array of tools that are usable. My list of 'indespensible tools' for your workbench: 1. DMM 2. Good non-reactive Dummy Load 3. RF Probe (the parts for one is provided with every K2 kit) 4. Signal generator (may be just a crystal oscillator - see the K2 manual Troubleshooting section) 5. Broadband Noise generator (see the N0SS generator - www.n0ss.com) 6. PC with soundcard loaded with Spectrogram. With these inexpensive tools, one can do a lot of alignment and diagnostic troubleshooting. If you wish to get more sophisticated, you can add 100 MHz scope with 10x probes Frequency counter Signal Generator(s) More exotic stuff like Spectrum Analyzers (and Vector Analyzers) are also good if you do a lot of homebrewing and experimenting. What I am saying is that a good workbench may be equipped with simple, inexpensive tools - there are two important points that I would like to add: 1. Know your tools and their limitations, and 2. Use your head along with knowledge of point 1 when doing analysis. Trust no tool until you know its capabilities and limitations. There is a lot of excellent information in the ARRL publication "Experimental Methods for RF Design" that can be put to use - the authors indicate how homebrew test equipment can be used to accomplish precision measurements. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Hello all: > I have built Ron's/Tom's HF Noise Generator inside a business > cards plastic > box (hi!)...it looks very uggly and works beautifully! For those > of you who, > like myself, have little or no instrumentation, do build the circuit and > align your receiver with it. Its a great solution. > Thank you Ron AC7AC and Tom N0SS > 73 > Manuel > LU5OM > CT4IK > K2 # 5310 > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WWV Clocks -- It's really WWVB
- Original Message - From: "John Magliacane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 7:00 PM While every amateur text I've come across states that the D and E layers disappear at night, they, in fact, do not. They rise to higher altitudes and remain ionized through background cosmic radiation. -- So I believe, and the elevated E layer during the night could also be responsible for some of the single hop transcontinental openings on 6m - unfortunately IMHO also called Auroral Es openings since they can occur occasionally when the Aurora is 'quiet'. I have noticed similar openings on 40m at this QTH. 73, Geoff GM4ESD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2IO and BeaconSee
Sverre I used to run BeaconSee very successfully with my K2 and it's KIO2. It did switch the K2 to the various frequencies without a problem. Note the following from my post on the subject some time ago: There is a little trick to driving the K2 that might not be obvious... if you don't instruct the K2 to use VFO A, then issue a frequency for VFO A (expecting the K2 to change to that frequency), it will only do so if VFO A is currently in use. This gives the appearance of an intermittent fault. The syntax that works correctly is to command the frequency by the following string: FR0;FA0001410; FR0 selects VFO A, FA000xxx tells VFO A what frequency to select. To use VFO B, issue the command: FR1;FB0001410; Depending on application, issuing K20;AI0; ahead of the commands may avoid confusion and doesn't do any harm. Note there are no spaces between commands in the string. The above works well with BeaconSee, the default "Kenwood" setting sometimes worked but lacked the VFO A/B command so could foul up if you had previously used VFO B. Just rename the Menu Label in BeaconSee to &Elecraft. 73 Dave, G4AON ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] EQP2006 results for DK0SU
Hello, finally I hope that I managed to calculate the score correctly. Conditions for us Europeans were not as good as during last year's Party. On Sunday morning I stood up very urly to get some DX on 40m band but even there had no luck. But OK... after several tries I have been very glad to work WA8REI with his only 500 milliWatts on the 20m band; explained the rules of EQP to UA1AJ so I could log him too on the 20m band. A short while before the end of the party the 15m band was really open, I could listen a lot of Sout American stations loud and clear and worked N3DRK on 15m for EQP. But ok -- I think this year's EQP took place really in a "valley" of propagation conditions so things may only get better next year. Again N3DRK and others helped to stay up while chatting on the elecraft IRC channel. Next year I hope to be qrv with 100 Watts out of the KPA100 so that more stations may hear my signal. Hope to meet you all again, thanks for the nice contacts! 73/72 Thomas DK0SU/DF7TV ___ SUMMARY === COUNTRY: GERMANY CONTEST: Elecraft QSO Party, EQP March 11/12, 2006 CALLSIGN: DK0SU (clubstation) CLAIMED-SCORE: 23345 OPERATOR: Thomas Martin (DF7TV) RIG: Elecraft K2 #4138 MODE: CW POWER: 5 Watts ANT: X7 beam, V80S vertical | BAND | POINTS | S/P/C | |__||___| | 40 | 16 | 4 | |__||___| | 20 |124 |18 | |__||___| | 15 | 5 | 1 | |__||___| |Totals|145 |23 | |__||___| Total X Total X Power + Bonus = Final Points S/P/C MultPoints Score 145 X 23X 7+0 = 23345 -- http://www.qsl.net/df7tv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: WWV DST
Hi Mark. > Thanks for the reference. However, the idea that this system is > 'superior' would depend upon why one is looking for a time reference. > If all you want is a relatively high accuracy clock the WWV signal is > superior IMO. It certainly is easier to decode! As an added benefit it > includes the DST bit -- you never know when the govt will decide to > change the DST rules. Very true, but compared against WWVB and GPS, WWV/WWVH/CHU reception achieves the poorest accuracy as a time and frequency reference due to the inherent variability of ionospheric propagation. NIST claims WWV/WWVH time reception to be accurate to within 1 to 20 ms. WWVB reception is accurate to within 0.1 to 15 ms. NIST's Frequency Measurement and Analysis Service, which is GPS-based, is accurate to within 20 nanoseconds. This precision is due in part to the fact that NIST itself monitors the GPS signals while FMAS measurements are made, and so the readings taken are, in fact, traceable to NIST's atomic standards. Obviously, this is well beyond the accuracy most hams need in their shacks, but modern soundcard based weak signal and SSTV modes are demonstrating very clearly the increasing importance of being able to send and receive highly accurate, stable, and well timed signals. I suspect that trend will continue. 73, de John, KD2BD Visit John on the Web at: http://kd2bd.ham.org/ . . . . __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB: Elecraft Heil Handmike
Hi Everybody. Is there anyone with a Elecraft/Heil Handmike sitting around collecting dust? Thanks. 73/72 Jeff - VA3JFF = L. Jeffrey Hetherington - VA3JFF QRP-ARCI (sm) Contest Manager QRP-ARCI (sm) #9223 / K2 #3375 / KX1 #631 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WWV Clocks -- It's really WWVB
My old Heathkit clock received WWV on 5Mhz, 10Mhz and 15Mhz. You could turn up the audio and listen if you wanted. > Incidentially, it is _WWVB_ on 60 kHz, not WWV or WWVH on HF that is used by > these "radio controlled clocks" for periodic time checks, usually once a day > during the early morning hours (local time). > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: WWV DST
Thanks for the reference. However, the idea that this system is 'superior' would depend upon why one is looking for a time reference. If all you want is a relatively high accuracy clock the WWV signal is superior IMO. It certainly is easier to decode! As an added benefit it includes the DST bit -- you never know when the govt will decide to change the DST rules. If you need to know where you are and have a clear view of the sky your system works well. (As long as I don't have to code the algorithms.) Mark On 4/3/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Mark - you are correct... I am just to used to working with the superior > system described at > > http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pubs/gps/sigspec/gpssps1.pdf > > that is only good to about 100 nanoseconds anywhere on the planet, but it has > no clue about DST. The starting and ending dates for DST are easy to > determine if you can figure out which day of the month it is, and what day of > the week it is. > > N7WY > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WWV Clocks -- It's really WWVB
Hi Bob. > After acquisition, it seems to do some kind of matched filtering for > "what it expects" to stay synchronized and gets better Eb/N0 performance > as a result. You are correct. NIST encourages radio controlled clock manufacturers to employ bit and frame averaging techniques to improve decoding accuracy. The frame averaging and the "sanity checks" that take place in firmware take several minutes _under good reception conditions_ to complete. WWVB reception quality normally improves at night due to better D layer signal propagation (and naturally lower noise levels). While every amateur text I've come across states that the D and E layers disappear at night, they, in fact, do not. They rise to higher altitudes and remain ionized through background cosmic radiation. It is this lightly ionized D-layer that makes LF reception possible beyond the normal range of surface wave propagation at night. Oddly enough, I have my K2/100 building experience to thank for discovering this. 73, de John, KD2BD Visit John on the Web at: http://kd2bd.ham.org/ . . . . __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2, LP-100 and HRD etc
The LP-100 Plot software does this already if you use DXlabs Commander (freeware) or TRX-Manager. It doesn't matter what rig is selected, it will work with any supported rig. You set the start and stop frequencies and step size, then hit Run. The program controls the rig and gathers the data. You can select the parameters to plot either before or after running, and save the plots to a file in CSV format for later recall or export to a spreadsheet. It may be possible to add HRD, but I don't see a linking component for them that accepts all the incoming commands needed. You can see a screen capture of the LP-100 Plot software at www.telepostinc.com/lp100.html, along with a comparison to a couple of antenna analyzers I own as well as my HP87510A VNA. 73, Larry N8LP Mike Walkington wrote: All, It seems to me that is should be possible to write a piece of software that controls the K2 transmit frequency (steps it up in increments), reads the LP-100 SWR, power etc, and produces plots for each ham band of frequency versus SWR, power etc. It would sure be nice if this was built into HRD. Mike VK1KCK K2#2599 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] HF NOISE GENERATOR BY AC7AC/N0SS
Hello all: I have built Ron's/Tom's HF Noise Generator inside a business cards plastic box (hi!)...it looks very uggly and works beautifully! For those of you who, like myself, have little or no instrumentation, do build the circuit and align your receiver with it. Its a great solution. Thank you Ron AC7AC and Tom N0SS 73 Manuel LU5OM CT4IK K2 # 5310 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2, LP-100 and HRD etc
All, It seems to me that is should be possible to write a piece of software that controls the K2 transmit frequency (steps it up in increments), reads the LP-100 SWR, power etc, and produces plots for each ham band of frequency versus SWR, power etc. It would sure be nice if this was built into HRD. Mike VK1KCK K2#2599 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Mounting Toroidal Inductors with Common Materials
Michael N9BDF wrote: I know that this issue comes up from time to time. I ran across this comparison of materials on the Web and thought some might find it useful. www.qrp.pops.net/w7el.htm --- Interesting info! The Elecraft kits are designed to avoid the need to attach the toroids to the PCB with any sort of material other than the leads themselves. Doing so may disturb the properties of the coil and reduce performance or cause the unit failure altogether. The kits are also designed so that the leads from the toroids will drop in to the proper pads *if* they are wound exactly as shown in the manuals (turns going in the directions shown, spaced as shown, and so on). In some cases it is essential the windings be positioned exactly as shown for the unit to work. In the KXB3080, for example, two inductors consist of a pair of windings side-by-side on a single toroidal core. On 80 meters a relay connects the windings together to form a larger inductance. If those windings are not wound as shown in the drawings and photographs, the inductances may not add causing the rig to fail to operate. Often there's a lot more to a coil than what meets the casual eye. That's why there are so many pictures showing them wound exactly as they need to be in the manuals. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WTB Norcal BLT Tuner or Similar
The BLT is a fine tuner. I've got one too. It's limited and doesn't have the range of elecrafts auto tuners but then until the cash flow allows it. The blt is good enough. I think you'lle be happy with it. 73's de n5vwn Roland On Apr 3, 2006, at 7:28 PM, Richard Powers wrote: I am looking for an external tuner for my Elecraft K1 preferably for 10 thru 40 meters while out camping. 73, Dick WB9PWQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 #2
Congrats! Now I want one too. Acxtually I've been wondering which to get, the k-1 or the kx1. Also kind of waiting for a kit that does 6/10/12/15/17 meter kit. I might be waiting a long time! I do like the kx1 and barrowed one for a weekend...fun. I would have liked to have 5 watts though. Can't make everyone happy. K2 is great! Anyways, keep us informed about how the build goes and your first qso. Maybe some of us will be inspired to take the plung! Roland n5vwn - Original Message - From: "Alexandra Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 3:10 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 #2 Got it today, United Parcel Slingers damaged one corner of the outer box a little but the inner's perfect, plus I got some packing peanuts to recycle (I'm a recycling fool) and this came at 10AM! I'd have gotten right on it already except I have some antenna fiddling to do first and other stuff. Whoohoo build time! 73 de Alex NS6Y ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WWV Clocks -- It's really WWVB
On Apr 4, 2006, at 7:43 AM, John Magliacane wrote: Despite your short distance to WWVB, you still might be experiencing poor reception due to local interference sources. Computer monitors, switching power supplies, AC operated motors, and thunderstorms tend to generate a lot of 60 kHz noise. It's also a good idea to position the clock on a non-metallic surface. The "no-name-brand" clock in my shack works perfectly, but at 0700Z each day it beeps loudly as it goes through the reset procedure with WWVB. No problem there, but I wouldn't want it in my bedroom. 73, Bob N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WWV Clocks -- It's really WWVB
Twice a year, I take my clocks out to the back porch and out of my shack/office. That is around the time of DST/ST switches. The rest of the year, my "Atomic Clock" from LaCrosse is always in perfect sync to the ability of my eye to detect. I always do it after the switch because I never remember to do it before the switch!. In central NJ, FN20rg, in eight years of owning this clock, I have never once had this procedure fail: back porch with full western exposure, one night, the clock resets and from then until the next change over, it keeps great time. After acquisition, it seems to do some kind of matched filtering for "what it expects" to stay synchronized and gets better Eb/N0 performance as a result. I have repeated this every time I need to replace a battery or change ST/DST. Bob N4HY John Magliacane wrote: Hi Craig. We have a total of 8 "automatic" WWV synched clocks of various types... And I live 30 miles from the WWV transmitter. Incidentially, it is _WWVB_ on 60 kHz, not WWV or WWVH on HF that is used by these "radio controlled clocks" for periodic time checks, usually once a day during the early morning hours (local time). Despite your short distance to WWVB, you still might be experiencing poor reception due to local interference sources. Computer monitors, switching power supplies, AC operated motors, and thunderstorms tend to generate a lot of 60 kHz noise. I'm 1622 miles east of WWVB and own a WWVB-based frequency standard / UTC clock of my own design. Even at this distance, when proper receiving techniques are used, reception of WWVB is generally excellent, day or night. 73, de John, KD2BD -- AMSAT VP Engineering. Member: ARRL, AMSAT-DL, TAPR, Packrats, NJQRP/AMQRP, QRP ARCI, QCWA, FRC. ARRL SDR Wrk Grp Chairman Laziness is the number one inspiration for ingenuity. Guilty as charged! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WWV Clocks -- It's really WWVB
Hi Craig. > We have a total of 8 "automatic" WWV synched clocks of various types... > > And I live 30 miles from the WWV transmitter. Incidentially, it is _WWVB_ on 60 kHz, not WWV or WWVH on HF that is used by these "radio controlled clocks" for periodic time checks, usually once a day during the early morning hours (local time). Despite your short distance to WWVB, you still might be experiencing poor reception due to local interference sources. Computer monitors, switching power supplies, AC operated motors, and thunderstorms tend to generate a lot of 60 kHz noise. All three NIST stations transmit DST, leap year, UT1, and leap second information bits. With regard to DST flags transmitted by WWVB, NIST Publication 432 states: "Daylight saving time (DST) and standard time (ST) information is transmitted at seconds 57 and 58. When ST is in effect, bits 57 and 58 are set to 0. When DST is in effect, bits 57 and 58 are set to 1. On the day of a change from ST to DST bit 57 changes from 0 to 1 at UTC, and bit 58 changes from 0 to 1 exactly 24 hours later. On the day of a change from DST back to ST bit 57 changes from 1 to 0 at UTC, and bit 58 changes from 1 to 0 exactly 24 hours later." With this in mind, poor or inconsistant reception might explain some of the effects you've recently seen. I'm 1622 miles east of WWVB and own a WWVB-based frequency standard / UTC clock of my own design. Even at this distance, when proper receiving techniques are used, reception of WWVB is generally excellent, day or night. 73, de John, KD2BD Visit John on the Web at: http://kd2bd.ham.org/ . . . . __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 24-hour UTC Station Clock.
When I got back into the hobby last fall I needed a clock. I looked at some fancy ones but ended up buying a radio shack travel alarm clock. It displays 24 hour time, is easy to read & set and even has a thermometer built in so I can see temps like 58F at the operating position. I think it cost less than $20 - I don't recall. It is one of those great little accessories that I'm really glad I bought. You can see a pic of it by going to the ARRL site, finding the Contest | Soapbox area, picking 2006 SKN and searching for KD1E. Or is there a way for me to post the 35k .jpg file to the list? - Keith KD1E - -Original Message- How do you get an MFJ clock to display UTC? Half the year, I have to turn off DST every single day before reading the clock. Kinda stupid for an Amateur Radio product. Model MFJ-123. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] MFJ clock (was Interesting tidbit..)
> ...an MFJ clock ... > Kinda stupid for an > Amateur Radio product. Model MFJ-123. Sums it up for me right there. I bought one of their "Deluxe Iambic Paddles" last year when I built my K1. It uses a split post to cinch down on the threaded contacts. Problem is that it's not possible to cinch them down tight enough to really hold the contacts in place, so you end up having to adjust the contacts between every exchange. I sent it in for repair/replacement under warranty and they sent me a new one. It has the same problem. It's a design flaw, not a problem with the individual product. I bought a March R-3a at Dayton last year (http://www.qsl.net/k4qu/). I realize there's a significant price difference between the two but given that the MFJ is a paperweight and the March is a keyer paddle, the issue for me isn't price, it's the product's ability to perform in the function for which it was designed. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2/100 #4941 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Interesting tidbit...
Impossible to say, without defining "it". If "it" is: "timestamp is 6 monotonically ascending integers when displayed backwards* modulo 100", it will happen next year at 02:03:04:05:06:07. If "it" is: "timestamp is the first 6 integers in order when displayed backwards* modulo 100", it will happen in 100 years, as Earl suggests. If "it" is: "timestamp is the first 6 integers in order when displayed modulo 100", it will happen in 2101 just after 5AM. (01:02:03:04:05:06). * Backwards, LSD to MSD: ssmmhhDDMMYY. Normal timestamp display is MMDDhhmmss. Back on topic (sort of): How do you get an MFJ clock to display UTC? Half the year, I have to turn off DST every single day before reading the clock. Kinda stupid for an Amateur Radio product. Model MFJ-123. Dan Barker / WG4S -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Earl W Cunningham Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 11:46 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Interesting tidbit... Tom, N0SS wrote: On Wednesday [of next week - sic], at two minutes and three seconds after 1:00 in the morning. The time and date will be: 01:02:03:04:05:06 This won't happen again for a thousand years. == My calculations say it will happen every 100 years. 73, de Earl, K6SE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KXB3080 Manual - minor mistake but important for newbies?
Alex, The local electronics store had WESD51D stations on sale when I went looking last year for the initial KX1 build... The Elecraft mojo was working for me even BEFORE I started building! I'm holding out for the 'Low Static' Soldapullt now - they had to back order it for me! - Martin. On 4/4/06, Ron D'Eau Claire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Martin wrote: > > I know it's minor but 0.05" is more like 1.3mm than 0.13mm... > > - > > Thanks Martin!! All the field testers, Wayne, Gary and I all missed it! > > It's doubly embarrassing for me because I live in metric. Here in the USA > much of the scientific/technical stuff is all in metric and I normally > convert back to English units for something like this. Shoot, I even cook in > Metric. All my recepies are in grams and milliliters. > > I peeked and see that we had it right in the KX1 manual too. > > Ron (fumble-fingers) AC7AC > > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Mounting Toroidal Inductors with Common Materials
I know that this issue comes up from time to time. I ran across this comparison of materials on the Web and thought some might find it useful. www.qrp.pops.net/w7el.htm Best regards, Michael N9BDF, K2 #4137 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] DExpedition for ARCI Spring QP
Once again I will be operating the ARCI Spring QP from the great state of Delaware. I will be signing as NJ2OM/3, and mostly running on or near the QRP frequencies. During the evening hours I will check 80m at the top of each hour. I will check 10m at the top of other hours. If anyone needs DE on a particular band/mode, let me know. Maybe we can work out a sched to make it happen. Good luck to all, Mike, NJ2OM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
AW: [Elecraft] KXB3080 Manual - minor mistake but important fornewbies?
Because I am always free in my manual translations, the German manual of KXB3080 says (retranslated) "Recommended is a small solder tip in pencil form" No metrics nor inches :-) Peter -Ursprüngliche Nachricht- Von: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Im Auftrag von Ron D'Eau Claire Gesendet: Dienstag, 4. April 2006 06:58 An: 'Martin Gillen'; 'elecraft' Betreff: RE: [Elecraft] KXB3080 Manual - minor mistake but important fornewbies? Martin wrote: I know it's minor but 0.05" is more like 1.3mm than 0.13mm... - Thanks Martin!! All the field testers, Wayne, Gary and I all missed it! It's doubly embarrassing for me because I live in metric. Here in the USA much of the scientific/technical stuff is all in metric and I normally convert back to English units for something like this. Shoot, I even cook in Metric. All my recepies are in grams and milliliters. I peeked and see that we had it right in the KX1 manual too. Ron (fumble-fingers) AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Neat 12 Volt Rechargeable Battery Pack
This is a nice unit. I bought one from Sears a while back, looks just like the one from RS. Only problem I paid $39. At $20 thats a very good deal. I bought it for my R/C planes for charging at the field. I really didn't think it had enough to start a car but I was proven wrong one cold winter morning. 73, Rich - N5ZC - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Monday, April 03, 2006 8:38 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Neat 12 Volt Rechargeable Battery Pack Just picked this up over the weekend and though this would be a great item to have around for field activities. Radio Shack has a neat small rechargable battery pack on sale for only $19.95. It is the Power Up Rechargeable Jump-Starter, #270-4130. It is a nice compact size of 6 X 9.5 X 8 inches, which includes a carrying handle. The internal battery is a 12V 12Ah sealed lead acid type. There is a built-in charger circuit with molded-in standard male 120 VAC connectors - just plug-in your standard extension cord. There are two short cables with plastic-coated clamps for connecting to your car battery terminals to do an emergency start when your standard battery is low. Also included is an internal auto 12 VDC socket (cigarette lighter). There are the standard idiot-proof status lights. Sorry, but they did not include Anderson Power Pole connections. And, it would have been even neater if they had included an 120 VAC inverter circuit so you could recharge you cell phone or laptop batteries while out in the field. BTW, I have not conenctions with Radio Shack other than being a happy customer. 73, Henry Pollock K4TMC K2/100 #3??? (Oops, I forgot...turning 54 has its downfalls...) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 432 MHz manuals
Hi, I happened to see they now have the XV432 Assembly manual and 50 MHz to 432 MHz owners manual in the transverter section of the manuals on the Elecraft website. I assume that they must be running a new PDF compression system as they state the XV manuals are between 1.4 and 1.8 KB (yes KB) What sort of compression are they running... Nice typo... Meanwhile, I am looking at the XV432 info and awaiting an K2 upgrade parcel Kevin ZL1UJG K2 SN 01388 2nd user (nicely built by John WD1V) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Interesting tidbit...
The time and date will be: 01:02:03:04:05:06 Better still, come over to the UK next month when at two minutes and three seconds after one o' clock on the 4th May 06 you can experience it all over again. 73 Peter GM8GAX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Amplifier question
Good morning, I have a quick question that I should probably already know the answer to but don't. My father-in-law just gave me an SB-200 amp. I've never used one before and was wondering if it could be used with a "native" K2 (i.e., I don't have the KPA100). Thank you. ... Kirby --- avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. Virus Database (VPS): 0614-0, 04/03/2006 Tested on: 4/4/2006 4:35:46 AM avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2004 ALWIL Software. http://www.avast.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
