Re: [Elecraft] Errata! Check for errata!
Peter, No need to do, Bart, They have forgotten to put the errata into the kit. This happened first time and I got an alarm message immediate from Elecraft to add it to my stock kits. Normaly the erratas are in the kit. 'Normally' being the key word here. Apparently they can't keep up at the moment. Case in point: my KX1 that also arrived this week and came with errata sheet Rev B5 of Jan 30 2006. Following my own advice, I found errata sheet Rev B-6 of April 12 2006 available on the website. And the differences aren't trivial! To Howard, AC4FS: just make sure that before you actually start building, you check for new errata. Elecraft is known for its dedication to quality and is continuously revising the errata sheets. And from my own experience: when I received my K2 two years ago I wasn't in a position to start building immediately. But I did whip out the manual and read it front to back, back to front and probably sideways too. Applied the changes mentioned in the errata. It was great pre-fun only to be topped by the fun of the building itself. See if you can negotiate this with the wife ;-) Bart de PA3GYU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re: [Elecraft] re: Nixie tube display for the K2
And to think the casual observer would see the Elecraft genre as only about a really cool cadillac of a portable rig that you can build. IMHO, the fact that it is a catalyst of imagination, bringing together ideas of things to try, wether it be vintage tube (valves for those of you across the pond), processor based projects, or a combination thereof, is the real prize!! If I had a dollar for everytime I looked at the reflector email digest and said "wow- that is a really cool idea", I could afford to build everything Elecraft sells! 73s & 72s Pete > > From: Bill Coleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2006/06/09 Fri PM 06:40:50 CDT> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL > PROTECTED]> > CC: , > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] re: Nixie tube display for the K2 > > > On Jun 8, 2006, at 9:33 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > > > I am working on an building a "Novice Special" 12 watt transmitter > > - think 70s qst - uses a 6c4 and a 5763 tube. After I get the base > > transmitter working, I want to replace the Crystal with a DDS vfo > > similar to the one in the KX1. All this came about when I was > > scrapping out an old Heathkit condenser checker with a green eye > > tube. the empty chassis screamed for such a project. > > I've got a similar project brewing. I found an old chassis from my > Novice days. This 40m transmitter never quite worked. I'm going to > strip it down and build a MOPA transmitter using a 6CL6 and 6146 tube > for 30 and 40m. After that works, I'm intend to build a little solid- > state receiver with an NE602/crystal filter/MC1350/NE602 receiver > chain, not unlike some of Wayne's earlier designs. > > Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" > -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 > > Pete Axson WD4LST 17901 NE 18th Ave Citra, FL 32113 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Frequency shift in old K2
For awhile, I've been experiencing a down shift of about 200 hertz, but rarely and randomly in my K2 serial 0063. It's enough to change the characteristic tone in the receiver and degrades from the filter settings. Any suggestions as to where to start looking? Doesn't seem to be temperature-dependent but I could be wrong. And it, randomly, shifts back as well. Thanks. Tim K5OI Ruidoso, NM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] cleaning solder from lugs
On Jun 7, 2006, at 9:13 PM, David A. Belsley wrote: Needless to say, this is not a procedure recommended for pcbs or for delicate or breakable items, but for things like jacks, plugs, switches, and whatever, it seems to be a nice way to go without heating up the Hakko. I've been doing this for years! Beware that you have eye protection, and be careful if you are wearing shorts, as the little globs of hot solder can leap a considerable distance. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] re: Nixie tube display for the K2
On Jun 8, 2006, at 9:33 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I am working on an building a "Novice Special" 12 watt transmitter - think 70s qst - uses a 6c4 and a 5763 tube. After I get the base transmitter working, I want to replace the Crystal with a DDS vfo similar to the one in the KX1. All this came about when I was scrapping out an old Heathkit condenser checker with a green eye tube. the empty chassis screamed for such a project. I've got a similar project brewing. I found an old chassis from my Novice days. This 40m transmitter never quite worked. I'm going to strip it down and build a MOPA transmitter using a 6CL6 and 6146 tube for 30 and 40m. After that works, I'm intend to build a little solid- state receiver with an NE602/crystal filter/MC1350/NE602 receiver chain, not unlike some of Wayne's earlier designs. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Another use for XIT: quick frequency offset for ATUre-tune
Thanks for the great tip, Wayne! Bill K9YEQ K2-35 & 5279; KX1-35/3080 ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2
Wyn, I have an antique Hallicrafters HT33A with a PL172 tube, and I modified it so it will accept lower drive. Right now when I drive it with about 20 watts from my K2/100 in PSK31, I get about 400 watts out. That's a gain of 20 times, or 13 dB. The tube input is swamped with a 50 ohm resistor to help in its stability. The PL172 is a power pentode with 1000 watts plate dissipation, operated in the class AB1 mode (no control grid current) when amplifying SSB. On CW, it operates in the class AB2 mode, with a little higher efficiency, A 4-1000A is the nearest new(er) design tube. I thought about how I could make the old guy put out something exciting when driven by my K2. I could swamp the input with a 200 ohm resistor and use a 4:1 balun and the impedance to the K2 would still be 50 ohms. Actually, with the K2 automatic antenna tuner, you could tune the 400 ohms to 50 ohms. Same difference. The tube itself does not take any power in class AB1, but the input voltage needs to be so much for a given output. A 4:1 balun would increase the drive voltage by a factor of 4 times which would increase the output of the amp to 1600 watts if the drive remained the same, 800 watts with 10 watts drive, or 400 watts PSK31 with the K2 maxed out at 5 watts, which is respectful. From 20 watts to 1600 watts is a power gain of 19 dB which in my opinion is a little high. I would be more comfortable with a power gain of 16 dB, but you can try it. The point is, yes you can find a tube that will take a 10 watt transmitter to 800 watts or so, but be careful. Those tubes are expensive. 73, Chas W1CG At 09:17 AM 6/9/2006, Wyn wrote: Greetings from a newbie K2 builder. I am currently building #5390. Into phase 3 now, somewhere in the early stage of the rf board. Don't get too much time for this detailed work and my xyl has made me clear out the spare bedroom in our apartment (aka construction area), as she does not seem to like the lead droppings and other bits and pieces on the floor, while one of our daughters and young toddler are visiting. While the build is only a work in progress, and although it passed the stage 1 and stage 2 tests it's not over till it's over, my mind is turning to the question how to exploit the K2 when it finally gets launched. Let me say, I have nothing against qrp. The main reason I bought the kit (instead of an Argo V), was the desire to have a low current drain rig, to take on /P. I don't have much of an antenna sytem at this VR2 location. I have a Icom IC-781 which serves as the main rig at this station, but if the K2 works, I would like to try it as a main station rig with decent power as well as a /P rig. Here's the question. My only amp at this location is a Drale L4. It is just a 10db gain amp. So it would only produce at most, 150 watts driven by the K2. In practice, probably less. I have never driven a grounded grid triode amp sccessfully with such low power with any success. How does one drive a 10-15 watt output radio to serious output without an intermediate amp? I have designed and built many amps and repaired many others but not before an amp with a projected power gain of 20db. They were all either grounded grid triode affairs or a G2DAF (pair of 813), which is pretty similar. My basic thinking is a high mu tetrode amp, grid driven, preferably with a swamp resistor as input but, if needed, a tuned input and neutralized. I love glass tubes and am shy of using a 4cX400a or 4cx800a type tube, as I hated my ex-Alpha 01b, although I think the tubes would probably work ok but uninspiringly with the right design. I would really like to try a 4-1000a or even a 4-400a in that configuration. I have no issues with working on high voltage and plan to use the 2.5kv supply from the L4, though the 4-1000a does benefit from a higher anode voltage if available. I would be interested to hear from anyone else who has gone down this road and of their experiences. Meanwhile, best 73s and GL to you all from Hong Kong. Wyn VR2AX (ex VS6UK) GW3YGH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
AW: [Elecraft] Errata! Check for errata!
No need to do, Bart, They have forgotten to put the errata into the kit. This happened first time and I got an alarm message immediate from Elecraft to add it to my stock kits. Normaly the erratas are in the kit. 73 de Peter, DL2FI www.qrpproject.de > -Ursprüngliche Nachricht- > Von: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Im Auftrag von pa3gyu > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 8. Juni 2006 23:28 > An: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Betreff: [Elecraft] Errata! Check for errata! > > Yesterday I received an XG1 Receiver Test Oscillator. One > resistor has the wrong value: R8 (1.27 k) was actually > delivered as 1.24 k. Claiming this at Elecraft's much praised > 'help-I'm-missing-a-part' department, Scott AH6KL replied > promptly and to the point: > >Yes you do have the correct resistor for XG-1 R8 as it needs > to be 1.24 > >K ohms or 1240 ohms. Inadvertently Elecraft did not include > an errata > >with your kit describing this substitution. Please go ahead and > >install the 1240 ohm resistor at R8 with confidence. > Apologies for the oversight. > > Only after I received Scott's email, I checked at Elecraft's > website and noticed there is an errata for this kit. All it > says is that R8 has a different value and should be 1.24 > k Darn, now why didn't I think of checking the website > for errata first? > > Well, actually because I didn't think there could be an > errata-sheet for a four page manual: I figured it would be > small enough to be up to date. > Apparently not. > > I'll check the website again for the other kits I've received > just to make sure. There is always a chance new errata's are > published. > Lesson learned, ymmv. > > Bart de PA3GYU > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XG1 SIGNAL GENERATOR
I just finished building the XG1 and it works great. Has anyone put it in an Altoids box??? Will it change the output characteristics? Thanks DE KEN K1UM PS My KX-1 PROJECT IS ALMOST READY FOR PHASE 2 TESTS... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Another use for XIT: quick frequency offset for ATU re-tune
Hi all, I frequently use XIT as a way to quickly move off frequency to re-tune the auto-tuner. I just leave the K2's RIT/XIT offset control set fully clockwise (or counterclockwise). Then, when I want to re-tune the ATU, I turn on *both* RIT and XIT first. This is equivalent to moving the VFO up or down by the amount of the offset. After re-tuning the ATU, I then turn RIT and XIT both back off. You could turn on just the XIT, since the goal is to move your transmit frequency temporarily. But turning on both is better operating practice because you can verify, before you transmit, that the offset frequency is clear. A fairly small offset is adequate for moving off frequency in CW mode. But if you want to use the XIT technique in the SSB band segments, a greater shift is desirable. The K2's "RIT" secondary menu entry lets you select from several maximum RIT/XIT offsets, the highest being +/- about 4.8 kHz. +/- 2.4 kHz might be a better choice since this still provides fairly fine offset resolution (20 Hz). 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Low power out on 10M
Jim, There are 3 stages of RF amplification in the transmit chain between the W6 jumper and the LPF, you will have to refine the search a bit - right now, all I can say with certainty is that the problem lies between W6 and the LPF. I would suggest checking all the components in the base circuit of Q7 and Q8 as well as those components associated with Q5 and Q6 - particularly the capacitor values. Make RF Voltage measurements at the base and collector of Q6 and the bases of Q7/8 (and collector of Q7/8 if you are using a 'scope with a 10x probe) with the requested power set for 10 watts and see where it falls off (compare 10 meters to 20 meters as you had been doing). Once you determine the point where the gain drops drastically on 10 meters, you can zero in on the problem quickly. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Yeah, I know this subject has been kicked around for a > while, but none the > less. When I built the K2, I had no trouble getting the 10W > out on 10M. > > 1) I have rewound T2 and elevated it above the board 1/16 inch. > > 2) Band Power at W6 Measured output. >20 -33 DBM 2.0 WATTS >10 -29.3 DBM 2.0 WATTS > > From the above measurements it seems that at this level the > drive at W6 and > the power out of the Low Pass filter at the antenna connection > are tracking > fairly well. > > 3) Band Power at W6 Measured output. >20 -26.3 DBM 10W >10 -26.7 DBM 5W > > The drive is still up there, but whoa nellie! What happened > to the output? > This is where 10M flattens out. You can ask for more power, but it just > isn't there. Back in the old days, I would start replacing empty state > devices. > > I have checked the components around the 10/12M Low Pass > Filter and all > seem correct. > > Anybody seen this and got a suggestion.? > > Jim, W4ATK > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] mutiple XV daisy-chaining
So, how do you do it? I originally set mine up to use all BNC plumbing, tees and female barrels with a right angle at the end. This is giving inconsistent result, presumably because of inaccuracy in spacing and stress on the plumbing. Today we've been trying various combinations of stubs to the plumbing, but it seems like attenuation is killing us (cables range from 12-24", RG-58). It seems like that milliwatt is pretty easily lost in cabling/plumbing. So, those of you with multiple XVs, how do you do it? de w1rt/john ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] kx1 1510
Is on the air. Third qso was vi9ni on 40m. Guess it works. Pat N8VW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Low power out on 10M
I'm clueless but can offer an observation for you to laugh at and ignore. On 10 meters, -29.3 DBM yields 2.0 watts while -26.7 yields 5 watts. The change in drive level is about 3 dB which is twice the power so that looks like what I'd expect. On 20, the change is about 6 dB or 4x power and you show 2 watts going to 10. Again, it is in line with expectations. - Keith KD1E - -Original Message- From: "Jim" Rogers, W4ATK 2) Band Power at W6 Measured output. 20 -33 DBM 2.0 WATTS 10 -29.3 DBM 2.0 WATTS 3) Band Power at W6 Measured output. 20 -26.3 DBM 10W 10 -26.7 DBM 5W ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Cool Straight Key For Morse KB3NNP
Very cool indeed. I've looked at / longed for one of those keys, but it's a bit rich for my blood. Yes, let us know how it is. Diana should pick a time and schedule to be on the air. If she lets us know in advance, she night end up with a 5 wpm pile up. Now wouldn't that be cool. The tie to Morse himself is great, being a YL is an added plus. - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - -Original Message- From: Ron Polityka Just received a cool Deluxe Straight Key from the Vibroplex Company for Diana de KB3NNP. I have to place the cable on the key and set it up. Of course I will have to try it out. If the key works as good as it looks, I will have to buy one. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[QRP-L] FS: KXPD1
Have KXPD1 paddle for KX1 will ship CONUS for $50 4mos old used once in the field. Steve/n0tu __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Elecraft] Tube Linear Amp design for basic K2
Greetings from a newbie K2 builder. I am currently building #5390. Into phase 3 now, somewhere in the early stage of the rf board. Don't get too much time for this detailed work and my xyl has made me clear out the spare bedroom in our apartment (aka construction area), as she does not seem to like the lead droppings and other bits and pieces on the floor, while one of our daughters and young toddler are visiting. While the build is only a work in progress, and although it passed the stage 1 and stage 2 tests it's not over till it's over, my mind is turning to the question how to exploit the K2 when it finally gets launched. Let me say, I have nothing against qrp. The main reason I bought the kit (instead of an Argo V), was the desire to have a low current drain rig, to take on /P. I don't have much of an antenna sytem at this VR2 location. I have a Icom IC-781 which serves as the main rig at this station, but if the K2 works, I would like to try it as a main station rig with decent power as well as a /P rig. Here's the question. My only amp at this location is a Drale L4. It is just a 10db gain amp. So it would only produce at most, 150 watts driven by the K2. In practice, probably less. I have never driven a grounded grid triode amp sccessfully with such low power with any success. How does one drive a 10-15 watt output radio to serious output without an intermediate amp? I have designed and built many amps and repaired many others but not before an amp with a projected power gain of 20db. They were all either grounded grid triode affairs or a G2DAF (pair of 813), which is pretty similar. My basic thinking is a high mu tetrode amp, grid driven, preferably with a swamp resistor as input but, if needed, a tuned input and neutralized. I love glass tubes and am shy of using a 4cX400a or 4cx800a type tube, as I hated my ex-Alpha 01b, although I think the tubes would probably work ok but uninspiringly with the right design. I would really like to try a 4-1000a or even a 4-400a in that configuration. I have no issues with working on high voltage and plan to use the 2.5kv supply from the L4, though the 4-1000a does benefit from a higher anode voltage if available. I would be interested to hear from anyone else who has gone down this road and of their experiences. Meanwhile, best 73s and GL to you all from Hong Kong. Wyn VR2AX (ex VS6UK) GW3YGH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Low power out on 10M
Yeah, I know this subject has been kicked around for a while, but none the less. When I built the K2, I had no trouble getting the 10W out on 10M. 1) I have rewound T2 and elevated it above the board 1/16 inch. 2) Band Power at W6 Measured output. 20 -33 DBM 2.0 WATTS 10 -29.3 DBM 2.0 WATTS From the above measurements it seems that at this level the drive at W6 and the power out of the Low Pass filter at the antenna connection are tracking fairly well. 3) Band Power at W6 Measured output. 20 -26.3 DBM 10W 10 -26.7 DBM 5W The drive is still up there, but whoa nellie! What happened to the output? This is where 10M flattens out. You can ask for more power, but it just isn't there. Back in the old days, I would start replacing empty state devices. I have checked the components around the 10/12M Low Pass Filter and all seem correct. Anybody seen this and got a suggestion.? Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
