[Elecraft] found tuner - thanks for the replies

[nz7c]

Hi folks -
This reflector has never failed me in 6 years! What a great group. Anyway - 
I did get a reply with just what I needed and bought it - so thanks again for 
the help everyone.
73/Tim NZ7C
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Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT

[Christopher A. Kantarjiev]

After many months, this thread rears its ugly head again :-)

At the time, I said that I would take a crack at updating "Your Novice Accent" 
and collecting resources for the new ham who is trying to get proficient at CW.


I decided, after a while, that updating YNA was something I didn't want to try, 
but Dan KB6NU has done so at http://kb6nu.com/your-novice-accent/. By all means, 
take a look.


Instead of trying to make a coherent article, I did the 21st century thing of 
collecting a bunch of links and stitching them together into a web page with 
stream-of-consciousness text. Tom N0SS and Fred K6DGW were a great help in this 
endeavour. Please take a look at http://www.dimebank.com/cak/k6dbg/k6dbg_cw.html 
and send me any comments and criticism you might have...


Always learning,
73 de chris K6DBG

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[Elecraft] Re: T1 vs KAT2

[wayne burdick]

Craig D. Smith wrote:


I can give you a partially complete answer.  I have a K2 with the 
internal
tuner and am very pleased with it.  I also just bought (but have not 
yet

built) a T1 tuner


Dick,

As Craig mentioned, the KAT2 has the advantage of being very well 
integrated with the K2. It also has dual antenna jacks (controlled via 
the K2's ANT1/2 switch), a wider matching range, and its settings will 
be instantly updated when you change bands on the K2. It stores the 
most recent L-C settings for both antennas on all bands in EEPROM so 
the settings will still be there when you turn on power. Most 
important, though, it provides the K2 with a true SWR bridge. The K2 
itself has a composite forward power indication, but the bridge in the 
KAT2 provides much more accurate power setting, not to mention SWR 
info, when working into non-resonant loads.


Above all, you'll find that the KAT2 is convenient. It's installed 
inside the rig, and when you combine that with the internal battery, 
you have either the world's most efficient and high-performance 
emergency station, or the world's largest HF HT  :)


On the other hand, we designed the T1 to work well with the K2 *and* 
every other QRP rig on the planet. So if you have other QRP rigs, you 
may prefer the T1.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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RE: [Elecraft] T1 vs KAT2

[Craig D. Smith]

Dick ...

I can give you a partially complete answer.  I have a K2 with the internal
tuner and am very pleased with it.  I also just bought (but have not yet
built) a T1 tuner.

>From what I can piece together from the specs on the Elecraft website, the
T1 tuner will provide essentially the same power handling capability and
impedance matching range as the internal K2 tuner.  Both of these are
superior to the range and power handling of the internal tuners in the KX-1
and K1.

The reason I also bought the T1 is that for my station I think locating the
tuner remotely at the base of my vertical array could be advantageous.  I
also want to experiment with using it for portable work with the tuner right
at the antenna for my Buddipole.  For these applications, I believe it will
be superior to the internal K2 tuner.  The downside is that it is not as
integrated as the internal K2 tuner and will not provide as much useful info
on the K2 display.  It will also require a remote cable connection to
initiate the tuning function rather than the automatic implementation with
the K2 internal tuner.

So your choice may well depend upon your application, antennas and desired
type of operation.  You may indeed end up with both as I did  ;>)

73

   ... Craig  AC0DS


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RE: [Elecraft] Looking for tuner

[Kurt Cramer]

That would be GREAT if it would handle 125 watts.

73, Kurt

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[Elecraft] T1 vs KAT2

[Richardjwiltgen]

I have been trying to seek information about the relative merits of using  
the T1 vs the KAT2 antenna tuners with the K2.  For some reason, my request  
has 
apparently not been posted. There has only been one review of the KAT2 on  
eham.  There have been many on the T1, but most pertain to the  FT-817.  Has 
anyone had experience with both tuners with the K@ and is  willing to share 
their 
experience with me. TU
 
Dick
K8RBW
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RE: [Elecraft] Looking for tuner

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Sure you don't really need an Elecraft T1? ;-)

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Hi -
If anyone has an LDG-Z11 tuner they don't want - I'm looking for one. I
thought perhaps someone may not be using one after building Elecraft's
tuner. Please reply off-line (I only look at the reflector in digest mode).
Thanks, Tim, NZ7C

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[Elecraft] Looking for tuner

[nz7c]

Hi -
If anyone has an LDG-Z11 tuner they don't want - I'm looking for one. I thought 
perhaps someone may not be using one after building Elecraft's tuner. Please 
reply off-line (I only look at the reflector in digest mode).
Thanks, Tim, NZ7C

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[Elecraft] SALE K2 TOROID SET, BY THE "TOROID GUY"[Fwd: ]

[Ken]

I have for sale a set of unused pre-wound toroids for the K2 (by Toroid Guy). 
$30.00 shipped (CONUS ONLY). Please email off list to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
Pay-Pal or postal money order preferred. No credit cards with Pay-Pal please.
 
Thanks !!
Ken, W2GIW
Oaklyn, NJ

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Nut: It can't be this hard

[Earl]

Same with mine.  I cant even get it started, seems to be a little  for the 
antenna jack


Earl



Michael Cook wrote:
Hi all. I've been assembling my K2 since thursday and having a ton of 
fun. Last night I just finished the last assembly steps and I'm about to 
move on to the third set of testing (and aligning) of the transmitter.


There is just one thing that has got me stuck: the nut that goes on the 
antenna jack.


This can't POSSIBLY be this hard. I've tried. I've had someone else try. 
I just can NOT get the thing on. It seems impossible to get the thing on 
straight. If I do get it to catch it quickly seems to end up crooked and 
then falling off.


Is there some kind of special secret here? I've even tried screwing it on 
backwards (CCW instead of CW) but that didn't work (no surprise).


Tips?
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Nut: It can't be this hard

[Oscar F Hills]

Same exact problem here too. I tried, gently, this and that, and then  
everything. Eventually, in spite of careful efforts, I had kind of  
stripped the first few threads. I finally just wound it on there,  
making some "new " threads. Wish I had tried a different nut, but I  
didn't think of it. There is obviously a problem with some of the  
nuts, and I will be wanting to replace the whole jack at some point  
when all my options are installed and all is well.  Just for  
completeness' sake.


Oscar WV1C


On Jul 18, 2006, at 12:16 PM, Rajiv Dewan, N2RD wrote:


I had exactly the same problem.  I tried for a long time and gave up.
On Jul 18, 2006, at 11:19 AM, Michael Cook wrote:



Hi all. I've been assembling my K2 since thursday and having a ton  
of fun. Last night I just finished the last assembly steps and I'm  
about to move on to the third set of testing (and aligning) of the  
transmitter.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 display flicker after activating SCAN mode?

[w6fvi]

Hi, Steve!

It's very important that you set the scan memory Start/Stop boundaries 
as described in the manual.  Operating without having done this is 
pretty unpredictable, and can cause some of the problems you are 
experiencing.


Brian - W6FVI


Steven M. Knapp wrote:

I hit upon the scan mode by accident with my brand new KX1. Reading 
the manual it appears the memories are the scan boundaries. I've not 
set these, so they would be whatever default.


I've noticed that while scanning, and even after scanning, the RF I 
hear is reduced from what I had heard before. And the display 
flickers, for example if it's displaying 2 it will flicker to 3.


It keeps doing this until I power cycle the radio. Then the RF/signal 
goes back to normal, and the display works OK.


Well, the decimal point seems to flicker once and awhile. I've double 
checked the solder joints, esp around the display and micro. Vibration 
does not cause the flicker either.


Normal stuff here?
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RE: [Elecraft] hi current !!!

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

If you look at the schematic, you should discover that the LPF area will
indicate DC continuity to ground.  The secondary winding of T4 connects the
input of the LPF to ground for DC.

Since the K2 was working before, you have only a single failure point -
keeping that in mind while troubleshooting is usually helpful and may
prevent you from 'fixing' things that are not broken.

I would suggest that you check T3 and T4 carefully (particularly T4), even
to the point of rewinding them - while you have T4 out, you could check the
LPF for a short to ground if you are suspicious of that.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> next clue : i pulled the outputs, which are not shorted and the
> set acts ok ,
> that leads me to believe that I got a  lowpass filter issue  
> especially since I get  almost dead short at the output of the
> finals/ input to the LP filters,,
>
>

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RE: [Elecraft] Fw: C22

[Don Wilhelm]

Gordon,

During operation of the K2, the reference oscillator is not used except as
the oscillator for the microprocessor - so there will be no observed effect
from changing the C22 setting.

During the calibration steps (for an accurate CAL FCTR reading, and before
running CAL PLL or CAL FIL), the reference oscillator accuracy is important,
and should be set properly before any of these operations.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> When I built my K2 #2746 4 years back now I set C22 near enough using an
> external frequency counter, then last year I added the SSB board, I noted
> that I was about 200 Hz high as I do not work near band edges I
> left it at
> that, but recently decided I would get it a bit nearer however I now find
> that moving C22 does absolutely nothing, the trimmer cant be open
> or short
> circuit as I am still pretty near correct on CW.
>
> a local pal who has recently built a K2 has found the same
> problem when he
> built his K2 he calibrated C22 okay but now finds that moving C22 does
> nothing I have studied the circuit and I just can not figure out why this
> should be so
>
> I am quite happy to leave it as it is but if anyone has any idea why it
> would be appreciated
>
>

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Nut: It can't be this hard

[Don Wilhelm]

Michael,

Others have given you good suggestions, but ...

In most cases, you can simply leave the nut off - the BNC is securely
soldered to the RF Board and the rear panel is securely fastened with its
screws.  The only thing the nut accomplishes is to cover the gap between the
rear panel and the BNC body.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
> There is just one thing that has got me stuck: the nut that goes on
> the antenna jack.
>
> This can't POSSIBLY be this hard. I've tried. I've had someone else
> try. I just can NOT get the thing on. It seems impossible to get the
> thing on straight. If I do get it to catch it quickly seems to end up
> crooked and then falling off.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Nut: It can't be this hard

[Rajiv Dewan, N2RD]

I had exactly the same problem.  I tried for a long time and gave  
up.  I got a nut from another BNC connector in the junk box and it  
went on right away.  Something is not right with those nuts.


A recommendation for all new builders:  try it before you install the  
antenna jack.  It is probably not a bad idea to try out all the nuts  
for connectors / jacks before installing them.


Raj, N2RD



--
Rajiv Dewan, N2RD
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
FN13fc

--

On Jul 18, 2006, at 11:19 AM, Michael Cook wrote:

Hi all. I've been assembling my K2 since thursday and having a ton  
of fun. Last night I just finished the last assembly steps and I'm  
about to move on to the third set of testing (and aligning) of the  
transmitter.


There is just one thing that has got me stuck: the nut that goes on  
the antenna jack.


This can't POSSIBLY be this hard. I've tried. I've had someone else  
try. I just can NOT get the thing on. It seems impossible to get  
the thing on straight. If I do get it to catch it quickly seems to  
end up crooked and then falling off.


Is there some kind of special secret here? I've even tried screwing  
it on backwards (CCW instead of CW) but that didn't work (no  
surprise).


Tips?
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Nut: It can't be this hard

[stephen Farthing]

Mike,
   Mine went on first time..here is a tip you might wish to 
try(having first checked that you have not, by accident got the right 
nut confused with another on your bench). Offer up the nut to the threads on 
the antenna connector. Then turn it anti clockwise until you feel a "click". 
This click is the end of the thread on the nut passing over the end of the 
thread of the antenna conectoras soon as you feel the click turn the 
nnut clockwise and the threads will engage and Sam is your uncle (over here 
we say Bob!). You can use your fingers to tighten it updont bother witha 
spanner (wrench in the colonies?) unless you want to tighten it up at the 
end a tad...finger tight works for me


Regards, Steve G0XAR
- Original Message - 
From: "Michael Cook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 4:19 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Nut: It can't be this hard


Hi all. I've been assembling my K2 since thursday and having a ton of 
fun. Last night I just finished the last assembly steps and I'm about  to 
move on to the third set of testing (and aligning) of the  transmitter.


There is just one thing that has got me stuck: the nut that goes on  the 
antenna jack.


This can't POSSIBLY be this hard. I've tried. I've had someone else  try. 
I just can NOT get the thing on. It seems impossible to get the  thing on 
straight. If I do get it to catch it quickly seems to end up  crooked and 
then falling off.


Is there some kind of special secret here? I've even tried screwing  it on 
backwards (CCW instead of CW) but that didn't work (no surprise).


Tips?
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Nut

[Darwin, Keith]

At first I thought the post was about me. :-)

I recall the nut going on mine just fine.  The nut is small and easy to
get cross threaded and with plastic threads, it's easy to get things
fouled up.

My *guess* is that the nut itself has messed up threads.  If so, the
more you try, the more likely the threads on the jack body will get
messed up.

Just my guess!

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -

-Original Message-
From: Michael Cook

There is just one thing that has got me stuck: the nut that goes on the
antenna jack.

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Re: [Elecraft] hi current !!!

[Bill NY9H]

next clue : i pulled the outputs, which are not shorted and the set acts ok ,
that leads me to believe that I got a  lowpass filter issue  
especially since I get  almost dead short at the output of the 
finals/ input to the LP filters,,


onward,,,

bill




After a 4th july trip with my k2 upon keying it goes hi current, 
then does a reset.


At any power level, any mode, any band,

finals not shorted, but get instantly hot when trying to go to 
transmit before it resets. Can't measure any transmit voltages , 
since it won't stay in xmit,.


I notices trouble when powering up , as the dsp would not always turn on 
but since there is no power out and hot outputs guess it's in the 
xmtr??? not the control


is there a convenient way to isolate the issue??? since it shuts 
down when going into transmit ???


bill

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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: C22

[Vic K2VCO]

Gordon Gibson wrote:

a local pal who has recently built a K2 has found the same problem when 
he built his K2 he calibrated C22 okay but now finds that moving C22 
does nothing I have studied the circuit and I just can not figure out 
why this should be so


The exact frequency of the 4 MHz oscillator is only relevant during the 
calibration procedure.  If you change the setting, you *must* run CAL 
PLL followed by CAL FIL (and you must change the BFO settings in CAL FIL 
even if you return them to their previous values) before you will see a 
change.


For details, see: 


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna Nut: It can't be this hard

[Dave Sublette]

Gee--I don't remember it as being particularly difficult. Is there some 
flaw in the threads of either the nut or the connector? Is it the 
correct size nut?


K4TO

Michael Cook wrote:
Hi all. I've been assembling my K2 since thursday and having a ton of 
fun. Last night I just finished the last assembly steps and I'm about to 
move on to the third set of testing (and aligning) of the transmitter.


There is just one thing that has got me stuck: the nut that goes on the 
antenna jack.


This can't POSSIBLY be this hard. I've tried. I've had someone else try. 
I just can NOT get the thing on. It seems impossible to get the thing on 
straight. If I do get it to catch it quickly seems to end up crooked and 
then falling off.


Is there some kind of special secret here? I've even tried screwing it 
on backwards (CCW instead of CW) but that didn't work (no surprise).


Tips?
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[Elecraft] Fw: C22

[Gordon Gibson]

Hi Elecrafter's

When I built my K2 #2746 4 years back now I set C22 near enough using an 
external frequency counter, then last year I added the SSB board, I noted 
that I was about 200 Hz high as I do not work near band edges I left it at 
that, but recently decided I would get it a bit nearer however I now find 
that moving C22 does absolutely nothing, the trimmer cant be open or short 
circuit as I am still pretty near correct on CW.


a local pal who has recently built a K2 has found the same problem when he 
built his K2 he calibrated C22 okay but now finds that moving C22 does 
nothing I have studied the circuit and I just can not figure out why this 
should be so


I am quite happy to leave it as it is but if anyone has any idea why it 
would be appreciated


73 de Gordon G3ZFZ

Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark.
A large group of professionals built the Titanic.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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[Elecraft] K2 Antenna Nut: It can't be this hard

[Michael Cook]

Hi all. I've been assembling my K2 since thursday and having a ton of  
fun. Last night I just finished the last assembly steps and I'm about  
to move on to the third set of testing (and aligning) of the  
transmitter.


There is just one thing that has got me stuck: the nut that goes on  
the antenna jack.


This can't POSSIBLY be this hard. I've tried. I've had someone else  
try. I just can NOT get the thing on. It seems impossible to get the  
thing on straight. If I do get it to catch it quickly seems to end up  
crooked and then falling off.


Is there some kind of special secret here? I've even tried screwing  
it on backwards (CCW instead of CW) but that didn't work (no surprise).


Tips?
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[Elecraft] hi current !!!

[Bill NY9H]

After a 4th july trip with my k2 upon keying it goes hi current, then 
does a reset.


At any power level, any mode, any band,

finals not shorted, but get instantly hot when trying to go to 
transmit before it resets. Can't measure any transmit voltages , 
since it won't stay in xmit,.


I notices trouble when powering up , as the dsp would not always turn on 
but since there is no power out and hot outputs guess it's in the 
xmtr??? not the control


is there a convenient way to isolate the issue??? since it shuts down 
when going into transmit ???


bill

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RE: [Elecraft] Amp keying circuit K2

[Ken K3IU]

I answered David and apparently did not click on "Reply All." A long time
ago using the Elecraft Keying Circuit, I simply replaced the 2N keying
transistor with a MPSA42 which can handle max 300V (Vce) at 100 mA. It
worked fine with my SB-220 which has ~110V on the key line.

73,
Ken K3IU 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 9:57 AM
To: David Douglass; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Amp keying circuit K2

David,

Best solution: Change the output transistor to a mosfet device which will be
capable of handling the higher voltage. See the .pdf from Tom Hammond's
website - http://www.n0ss.net/k2_basic_8r_line_t-r_adapter.pdf for the
re-designed output device (HEXFET).  It will require changing one of the
resistors in the present keying circuit as well as the output device.

Another solution would be to use the present amp keying circuit (and a power
supply) to key a relay - use the relay contacts to key the amp.  Depending
on the speed of the relays, that may slow things down a bit and you will
cause problems with QSK keying.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> Thanks for all the responses to this - much appreciated.
>
> I'm afraid it was a simple case of me not reading the instructions on 
> the keying circuit.
>
> The FL-2100B pulls 20v on its keying input, whilst the circuit for the 
> K2 is only designed for 5-12v !! This is clearly written on the 
> instructions with the circuit, which I neglected to read.
>
> Does anyone have details of a simple circuit I can build, so I can use 
> this with my FL-2100B ??
>
> Again, many thanks for the all the replies !!
>
> David, VK2NU
>
>

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RE: [Elecraft] Amp keying circuit K2

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

Best solution: Change the output transistor to a mosfet device which will be
capable of handling the higher voltage. See the .pdf from Tom Hammond's
website - http://www.n0ss.net/k2_basic_8r_line_t-r_adapter.pdf for the
re-designed output device (HEXFET).  It will require changing one of the
resistors in the present keying circuit as well as the output device.

Another solution would be to use the present amp keying circuit (and a power
supply) to key a relay - use the relay contacts to key the amp.  Depending
on the speed of the relays, that may slow things down a bit and you will
cause problems with QSK keying.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> Thanks for all the responses to this - much appreciated.
>
> I'm afraid it was a simple case of me not reading the instructions on the
> keying circuit.
>
> The FL-2100B pulls 20v on its keying input, whilst the circuit
> for the K2 is
> only designed for 5-12v !! This is clearly written on the
> instructions with
> the circuit, which I neglected to read.
>
> Does anyone have details of a simple circuit I can build, so I
> can use this
> with my FL-2100B ??
>
> Again, many thanks for the all the replies !!
>
> David, VK2NU
>
>

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[Elecraft] New Extra on the block

[John Wiener]

Congratulations!!!

I know the feeling.  I went in to re-establish my ham roots of 30 y  
ago and decided to take tech thru extra exams.  Didn't expect pass  
the Extra but studied very hard and passed.


Nothing better, eh?

You've done a great thing.  I'm sure everyone on the group wishes you  
well and I hope to catch you on the bands.


Again, well done.

John
AB8WH
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Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Amp keying circuit K2

[Paul Picking]

Maybe you can key a TIP31 or 32 Power transistor from output of K2 circuit. 
These worked pretty well for me back in VIC20/RTTY days for keying FT101E. 
Paul WD8OJL




"The FL-2100B pulls 20v on its keying input, whilst the circuit for the K2 is
only designed for 5-12v !! This is clearly written on the instructions with
the circuit, which I neglected to read. 

Does anyone have details of a simple circuit I can build, so I can use this
with my FL-2100B ??"
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