[Elecraft] RE:The K2 and RTTY
Hi Lee, Not too much experience with RTTY yet, but the K2 filters seem to be very good. I have pictures atL http://www.pituch.net/personal/Steve's%20Page/Radio/RTTY/RTTY.html Or go to http://www.pituch.net/personal/ and drill down through the menus. I used MixW to align the filters. Steve, W2MY -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/594 - Release Date: 12/20/2006 3:54 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need time and freq for Elecradt CW net
Thank you Fred, I am finally back online but about 1500 email messages behind. Clean up takes most of my time but I will attempt another antenna launching expedition today. Seems like Western Red Cedar is not as monofilament friendly as Doug Fir. Trouble is the Doug Fir population is way, way down at the present time. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS On Tue, 19 Dec 2006 11:12:44 -0800, Fred Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Joseph Szczubelek wrote: I need the correct day, start time in GMT, and frequencies for the 40 and 20 meter Elecraft net. During standard time: Mon Z 14050 KHz Mon 0300Z 7045 KHz (I think that's the right time) This works out to 1600 PST, 1700 MST, 1800 CST, and 1900 EST on *Sun* afternoon and evening on 20. During DST, Kevin moves the Zulu time an hour so the local time remains the same. 73, Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: K-index=2, But Bands Deader Than Doornail?/Try beacons
In addition, if you can't hear anything on the bands, you should check your antenna system. I've also found myself trying to receive via the Ant 2 connection when my antenna was connected to Ant 1 (on my K2). 72, Jim W4BQP K2 #2268 On Tue, 2006-12-19 at 15:31 -0700, Jay Schwisow wrote: Stephen/Jeff, Always take a listen to the HF beacons. This is a great way to see if the bands are open. Right now from Colorado, I can hear W6 and KH6 on both 15 and 20 meters. http://www.ncdxf.org/Beacon/BeaconSchedule.html 73, Jay - KT5E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solder
I just received a box with K2 parts in it and #5924 on the outside, and I am REALLY looking forward to some time off this holiday so I can dig in. But I have a solder question before I start. I have a brand new spool of Kester Pb-free solder (98%Sn and 2%CU+Ag) with what I recall is standard active flux. Can I use this on the kit, or should I go with the old standby Pb/Sn solder? Thanks, Rob KC6ROC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Solder
Hi Rob, To quote Eric Swartz: We -strongly- recommend continuing to use regular lead based solder to build our kits. Kester 44, and other 63/37, 60/40 lead/tin mix solders are not going away in the US or in Eu and work much better for soldering both RoHS and non-RoHS tinned parts. Removal of non-lead solder is difficult at best for most builders, potentially damaging PC boards and components, and thats why our warranty prohibits its usage. Lead free solder is really designed for use in mass production lines. Eric corrected himself in a later post and said that the use of lead-free solder does not violate the warranty. Here's a link to his original post: http://tinyurl.com/tw2ra 73 and Happy Holidays, - Rob W7GH On Thu, 21 Dec 2006 11:36:04 -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just received a box with K2 parts in it and #5924 on the outside, and I am REALLY looking forward to some time off this holiday so I can dig in. But I have a solder question before I start. I have a brand new spool of Kester Pb-free solder (98%Sn and 2%CU+Ag) with what I recall is standard active flux. Can I use this on the kit, or should I go with the old standby Pb/Sn solder? Thanks, Rob KC6ROC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solder
Hi Rob, No I do not think that this solder is recommended, you may void the warranty if you need to send the unit in to Elecraft for repair. I built my K2 and other elctronic projects using the Kester 63/37 Tin lead based solder that is recommended by Elecraft Please refer to Elecraft webpage regarding solder types and soldering instructions Have a nice holiday season 73, Bob Johansen WB2SRF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] The K2 and RTTY
I have had excellent success with the K2/100 and RTTY. Worked several contests with it. Elecraft does not recommend running at full power, but under contest conditions, the exchanges are so short you can get away with it, most of the time. I have had some problems with RF getting onto the K2 data bus, but reducing power solves the problem. I do not have all of the K2/100 shielding upgrades installed, yet. As always, your mileage may vary. Logan KZ6O, # 1609 Lee Buller wrote: Well, I am getting back into RTTY and PSK31 after a couple of years away from the modes. I have my IC756PROII set up for AFSK and going to FSK using MMTTY on RTTY (only) What I hate about the PROII is when you are using RTTY I have to use AFSK Keying and the receiver's bandpass is less that ideal. This is why I am going to FSK so I can used the great filters on the PROII. Well, I never thought about using the K2/100 as an RTTY rig. I know it has RTTY filters...but I am sure it does not use FSK, but uses AFSK through the RTTY Filters? Right? Could somebody who has used the K2 on RTTY and PSK31 eludicate me on their experience with the rig and the mode? Lee - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense devine? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] The K2 and RTTY
Lee, The K2 does not do FSK. It would take some major mods to make that happpen. The RTTY mode could likely be better labeled 'DATA' or 'DIGI' because to is well suited to use with the soundcard digital modes. Unlike your PROII, the K2 offers more control over the filters by offering a separate set of filters for RTTY mode. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Well, I am getting back into RTTY and PSK31 after a couple of years away from the modes. I have my IC756PROII set up for AFSK and going to FSK using MMTTY on RTTY (only) What I hate about the PROII is when you are using RTTY I have to use AFSK Keying and the receiver's bandpass is less that ideal. This is why I am going to FSK so I can used the great filters on the PROII. Well, I never thought about using the K2/100 as an RTTY rig. I know it has RTTY filters...but I am sure it does not use FSK, but uses AFSK through the RTTY Filters? Right? Could somebody who has used the K2 on RTTY and PSK31 eludicate me on their experience with the rig and the mode? Lee - K0WA -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/594 - Release Date: 12/20/2006 3:54 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Next Sunspot Cycle a Big One?
NASA Science News for December 21, 2006 Evidence is mounting: the next solar cycle is going to be a big one. FULL STORY at: http://tinyurl.com/yg2kp4 Happy Holidays 72, Jeff, WB5GWB Long Island, NY http://www.qsl.net/liqrp ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft]KAT2 switching between ant1 and ant 2
Strange problem with my Kat2! I can't change between ant1 and ant 2, still I hear the relay klick. It's seem that it is a stronger klick when switch to ant1 then the klick at switch to ant2. If I put power on pin1 or pin10, It's change between the two inputs of antennas! Anyone proposition to this problem? 73's SM6FPG Bosse ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Solder
Ok, The point is well taken. I will use only my standard Pb/Sn for the K2 and save the Pb-free stuff for a few specialty projects. Thanks for your input. (This was my first question to the group - thanks for your input). 73 Rob KC6ROC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] The K2 and RTTY
I have made several thousand RTTY Contest QSOs using the K2/100. It is AFSK only. My TX power out is about 90 watts usually into a low Diamond verticle antenna rated for 200 watts. Receive works OK for me considering the limitations of the antenna. Transmit works well for me on search and pounce. I leave the fan speed set high during contests. The limitation of my antenna have kept my rate at 100 - 200 QSOs per contest. If I had better antennas, a higher SP QSO rate might result in over heating. I have tried running mode but find that the rig starts to get unacceptably hot after several minutes of CQing. During very good band conditions, my hourly SP rate was high enough to damage the 40M and 20M matching components in the Diamond antenna. I now must restrict the Diamond antenna to 80M and 15M use and use a low Alpha Delta DX-CC fan dipole for 40M and 20M. I set the K2 AGC off and control RX signal strength into the computer sound card using RF gain. AGC off prevents pumping that can depress weak signals when a strong signal comes onto the passband. Under crowded conditions, I use AFil to narrow bandwidth with 1000 Hz being used as my center frequency. RTTY AFil is set to opt1 with the strong right third of the filter passband aligned with 1000 HZ. I always try to TX at 1000 HZ to keep the TX signal strength consistent. I use narrowed CW filters centered on 1000 Hz when needed. Reducing RF gain is more beneficial for copying weak signals that using narrow DSP filters. Problems copying weak signals appear to be more related to the background noise level than adjacent signal interference. The narrow DSP filters work FB to eliminate unwanted signals within a wider passband with the AGC off to prevent signal strength depression by the AGC. I avoid XFil because I find the small frequency shift annoying on digital modes when switching between the XFil used on RX and the Opt1 fil always used on TX. I hope to make the following future changes: -higher and better antennas to improve my QSO rate, -an external amplifier so that I can use lower power on the K2/100 to enable run mode without significant heating, -an external muffin fan to improve K2 cooling efficiency. I have never had a heating problem using typically lower power PSK31. AGC pumping can be challenging on PSK 31 because of the narrow signal and closeness of adjacent signals. HTH 73 de KB1IKD Lee Buller wrote: Well, I am getting back into RTTY and PSK31 after a couple of years away from the modes. I have my IC756PROII set up for AFSK and going to FSK using MMTTY on RTTY (only) What I hate about the PROII is when you are using RTTY I have to use AFSK Keying and the receiver's bandpass is less that ideal. This is why I am going to FSK so I can used the great filters on the PROII. Well, I never thought about using the K2/100 as an RTTY rig. I know it has RTTY filters...but I am sure it does not use FSK, but uses AFSK through the RTTY Filters? Right? Could somebody who has used the K2 on RTTY and PSK31 eludicate me on their experience with the rig and the mode? Lee - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense devine? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Solder
DO NOT USE LEAD-FREE SOLDER! It's not even good for fishing sinkers! Good old Kester, thinner .020 is the best. Try to find # SN63PB37 #58/285, 24-6337-9700, J-STD lead solder, if you can! Most of the recommended Elecraft solder suppliers carry it. You end up with nice joints, and not too much resin rosin. :) A good Soldering Station, from Circuit Specialist Inc., helps too. Good Luck Fred N3CSY, K2 # 54xx __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Solder
I hope we didn't drive you away with the answers, Rob! Keep in mind that there is NOTHING wrong with the quality and durability of joints that lead-free solder makes. It's great stuff that works very well. For hand work there are two important issues that recommend against its use: 1) Lead-free solder melts at a higher temperature than leaded solder. Higher temperatures mean it's easier to lift a trace or damage a solder pad if you change a part. Of course, a higher iron temperature is needed during assembly too. Many builders are already skittish about using a high enough temperature iron already, so the idea of pushing the temperature higher isn't very welcome. 2) At least some lead-free solders cool to a nice, dull matte finish: exactly what we've been taught to recognize as a 'cold solder' joint that is not reliable. It can be very hard to tell a good joint from a bad joint. It simply doesn't seem to make sense to buy into those issues when leaded solder is readily available and has a century-long history of doing an excellent job in electronic gear. While we're on the subject of solder once again, let me repeat an important slightly off-topic warning about fluxes! AVOID WATER SOLUBLE FLUXES LIKE THE PLAGUE! They are a plague that will ruin your rig. Water soluble sounds great. A little water and they're gone. No rosin mess. But they are a disaster for hand work outside of a special property: The water-soluble flux remains corrosive at room temperature, just like acid-core plumber's solder that we've all learned to avoid in electronics. (Rosin is inert below the temperature at which solder melts.) Joints soldered with the water soluble flux must be power washed in a special machine to remove all traces of the flux immediately after soldering. Failure to do so will result in your rig becoming intermittent in a few months as the flux literally eats its way through the traces on the boards. The boards will be a total loss. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Ok, The point is well taken. I will use only my standard Pb/Sn for the K2 and save the Pb-free stuff for a few specialty projects. Thanks for your input. (This was my first question to the group - thanks for your input). 73 Rob KC6ROC ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Solder
Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I hope we didn't drive you away with the answers, Rob! snip Nope, Still here, and glad for the input about flux too. KC6ROC+ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft]KAT2 switching between ant1 and ant 2
Bosse, That sounds like a soldering problem. Look carefully at the soldering at K18 pins 1 and 10 and the soldering at U1 pin 26. You could also have a problem with the socket of U1, or a pin bent under the IC and not properly in the socket pin. Check for continuity between K18 pin 10 and the top side of U1 pin 26 (measure with the probe right next to the IC body). If there is not continuity (a very low resistance), you must find out where the break in the path is. Be certain there is good continuity between K18 pin 1 and J5 pin 1, and be certain that all other relays on the L-C board indicate good continuity between their pin 1 and P5 pin 1 (this is relay common). There also is a possibility (but a low probability) that the pin 26 output from U1 is faulty. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Strange problem with my Kat2! I can't change between ant1 and ant 2, still I hear the relay klick. It's seem that it is a stronger klick when switch to ant1 then the klick at switch to ant2. If I put power on pin1 or pin10, It's change between the two inputs of antennas! Anyone proposition to this problem? 73's SM6FPG Bosse -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/594 - Release Date: 12/20/2006 3:54 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] solder
I found an interesting article on the internet regarding Lead free solder: http://www.jgpp.com/projects/lead_free_soldering/03_27_02_presentations/b mamsg.pdf Now I understand the reason why its use should be avoided for electronic kit assembly. I have been using Kester 44 Tin lead solder for decades it has been proven reliable, the solder joint has a mirror like finish and yes I take the time to remove residual flux from the board it makes it easy to see if I missed a connection or have a cold solder joint. I found that Lectra-Motive CRC brand electric parts cleaner from RS automotive stores works great. Do not spray it directly on the board spray some into the cap removed from the top of the can, apply it with cotton Q-tip swabs avoid getting this stuff on plastic parts. Use in a well ventilated area. I used to use electronic grade flux remover anhydrous 100% alcohol but the [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hazmat shipping charges from mail order because of the lack of a local supplier stopped me from using it. 73, Have a nice holiday season Bob Johansen WB2SRF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Solder
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I hope we didn't drive you away with the answers, Rob! Keep in mind that there is NOTHING wrong with the quality and durability of joints that lead-free solder makes. It's great stuff that works very well. Yes, but it's much more difficult to remove parts installed with lead-free solder, should that be necessary. Just ask Don Wilhelm -- and he's a pro :) 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Solder
I agree, Wayne! I thought that's what I said when I wrote, Lead-free solder melts at a higher temperature than leaded solder. Higher temperatures mean it's easier to lift a trace or damage a solder pad if you change a part. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: wayne burdick [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 6:13 PM To: Ron D'Eau Claire Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: Solder Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I hope we didn't drive you away with the answers, Rob! Keep in mind that there is NOTHING wrong with the quality and durability of joints that lead-free solder makes. It's great stuff that works very well. Yes, but it's much more difficult to remove parts installed with lead-free solder, should that be necessary. Just ask Don Wilhelm -- and he's a pro :) 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Solder
Mike S wrote: There are real concerns that lead-free solders are less reliable. Lead free solder joints are more fragile - http://www.pcbrc.com/dev/PDFs/WhitePaper-SACfragility1.pdf Little is known about how to avoid the tin whisker problem, and the corresponding reliability issues - http://ap.pennnet.com/Articles/Article_Display.cfm?Section=ARTCLARTICLE_ID= 233627VERSION_NUM=2p=95 It's interesting to note that many life critical systems (medical, aerospace, military) are exempted from RoHS. --- I hadn't seen that report on the fragility of lead-free solder joints. Thank you. It reinforces the point that ordinary solder containing lead has worked very well for nearly a century with an insignificant failure rate when joints are soldered properly. When we move into new technology we are breaking new ground no less than the day the Titanic sailed to New York. I was aware that the tin whisker problem is a real issue that has no immediate solution. However, from what I've read, the whisker problem is not an issue with the solder. It's an issue with using pure tin to coat the leads on some RoHS parts. The parts themselves are subject to growing deadly whiskers no matter what solder is used. A number of photos I've seen point out that the soldered part of the connection is free of whiskers while the pure tinned portions of the lead that were not subjected to solder grew the whiskers. The whiskers can grow weeks, months or even years after a part is installed and the whiskers can reach several mm in length, producing shorts between adjacent solder pads. Here's some pictures of the whiskers: http://nepp.nasa.gov/whisker/anecdote/20year/index.html The whiskers aren't getting the play in the press one might imagine because the consumer electronics industry isn't too concerned about them. They plan on your Ipod, computer, personal digital assistant, TV, cell phone or other personal electronics being discarded every year or two anyway, before the whiskers will render them useless. It's the military, space and other high-reliability applications who are concerned, and they aren't the ones to make the front page of the morning paper. I'm inclined to put my Elecraft rigs up there in reliability objectives with a satellite or missile. I don't plan to trash the rig in a year or two (my K2 is already going on 7 years old already!). Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Solder
At 06:51 PM 12/21/2006, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote... I hope we didn't drive you away with the answers, Rob! Keep in mind that there is NOTHING wrong with the quality and durability of joints that lead-free solder makes. It's great stuff that works very well. It's very premature to make that claim. There are real concerns that lead-free solders are less reliable. Lead free solder joints are more fragile - http://www.pcbrc.com/dev/PDFs/WhitePaper-SACfragility1.pdf Little is known about how to avoid the tin whisker problem, and the corresponding reliability issues - http://ap.pennnet.com/Articles/Article_Display.cfm?Section=ARTCLARTICLE_ID=233627VERSION_NUM=2p=95 It's interesting to note that many life critical systems (medical, aerospace, military) are exempted from RoHS. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net
Hi Folks, There will be an ECN this week. Well, I mean to say, I will be running the net as usual. I took my time wading through the area which used to be a back yard and got up a new antenna. It is not up as high on one leg as it was before but I think it will work OK. Maybe by next week I can get that leg into a tree about fifty feet further south. I need to cut the leaning trees before I can do that since the brush will short out the antenna. But, this week I will have a signal. May be weaker than usual but who will be able to tell? See you all then, Kevin. KD5ONS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: lead-free solder (plus bonus desoldering primer :)
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I wrote, Lead-free solder melts at a higher temperature than leaded solder. Higher temperatures mean it's easier to lift a trace or damage a solder pad if you change a part. This is certainly true. But it's worse than that. What I should have said is that it's much harder to get parts off the board *at all* if they were secured using unleaded solder. It's hard to get even one wire out of a hole! In 1999 I wrote about the joys of component removal: http://www.kkn.net/archives/html/QRP-L/1999-01/msg00445.html Everything I said in this piece goes double for lead-free solder :) However, I must modify my original Technique #8. Rather than use a component lead to clean out a solder-filled hole, I use a very thin stainless-steel pick or a toothpick. The solder won't stick to such tools -- a huge improvement over my original method. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: lead-free solder (plus bonus desoldering primer :)
Ha, HA! That's a GREAT write-up. (Why isn't it on the Elecraft builder's resources page?) I'll admit that the latest equipment from Europe that I've serviced is still pre-RoHS, so I've not faced that dilemma - yet. I've used your toothpick approach, but I found it needs have very small mass. I have some dental picks (donated by my dentist). Although the pointed tip is small enough, with the metal handle they have way too much mass and instantly solidify the solder when it's touched. I have taken a thin piece of wire and wrapped it around the tip of the iron so it's heated and used it to push on through the hole. Stick it through the pad and swirl the wire around (if it's smaller than the hole in the pad) to clear the space for the new component lead. Where space is available to reach the pad on both sides of the board (either I've got the component out or I've clipped the leads so I'm just clearing the solder pad) I put the spring-loaded solder sucker on the pad on one side of the board, and heat the pad on the other side until the solder is molten, then push the button and WHACK! it's clear. It helps to leave some of the old component lead sticking out of the pad when doing that so I can put the tip of the sucker over it and it won't slip off while I'm focusing on where I'm putting the iron. That sounds elegant, but the reality is much, much closer to what you describe. Still, it works. Mike S brought up an interesting issue about the strength of lead-free solder joints referencing a paper by Borgesen of Universal Instruments Corporation and Henderson of IBM Corporation: http://www.pcbrc.com/dev/PDFs/WhitePaper-SACfragility1.pdf I'm as 'green' as the next guy but I'll stick with my leaded solder. After all, I'm not planning to dump any of my Elecraft rigs in the land fill anytime soon... Ron AC7AC Original Message- Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I wrote, Lead-free solder melts at a higher temperature than leaded solder. Higher temperatures mean it's easier to lift a trace or damage a solder pad if you change a part. This is certainly true. But it's worse than that. What I should have said is that it's much harder to get parts off the board *at all* if they were secured using unleaded solder. It's hard to get even one wire out of a hole! In 1999 I wrote about the joys of component removal: http://www.kkn.net/archives/html/QRP-L/1999-01/msg00445.html Everything I said in this piece goes double for lead-free solder :) However, I must modify my original Technique #8. Rather than use a component lead to clean out a solder-filled hole, I use a very thin stainless-steel pick or a toothpick. The solder won't stick to such tools -- a huge improvement over my original method. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
