[Elecraft] K2 #5549 some questions/remarks

2006-12-25 Thread Jurgen ON5MF

Hi,

First of all Merry Christmas to all of you!

Yesterday I went over to a friend and we did some quick tests on my new 
K2 (basic, no options yet).


To be clear, everything has been aligned with basic tools, as in the 
user manual.


Here are some things we noticed:

  1. when looking at the transmitted signal using a spectrum analyser,
 the signal didn't seem as clean as we liked it.  We didn't have
 time (it was the day before X-mas!) to really start counting the
 dB's, but on 30, 12 and 10 m we saw some signals around the main
 signal. Is there any chance we can get these bands 'cleaner' by
 further tweaking the filters?

  2. Output power on 10m is OK low in the band, but when going higher
 up it decreases to a mere 1,5 W. Moreover the higher we go in the
 band the worse the transmitted spectrum gets (see above). Is it
 possible to set the filters so the complete 10m band can be used
 at a reasonable power? I know, for CW the low part of the band is
 the place to be, but I'd like to also install the SSB option.

  3. When listening to a continuous signal (XG2 for example) there is
 some kind of a (digital) 'thump' in the audio everytime I turn RIT
 or VFO. Is this a normal behaviour or not?


--

73

Jurgen Geldhof
ON5MF

[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]



my site:www.on5mf.be http://www.ktk.be  

our club:   www.ktk.be http://www.ktk.be

the Belgian Amateur Radio Society:  www.uba.be http://www.uba.be


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[Elecraft] KX1 Problem

2006-12-25 Thread Bob C.
Has worked fine since building earlier this year but after returning from a 
trip via airline it starts transmitting as soon as I turn it on.  Sending 
'dahs with a key plugged in.  When I plug in a key I hear its side tone as I 
normally would under the continuous series of dahs being transmitted.   When 
first turned on I see the band is 14mhz then the display only shows led bars 
when it is sending.

I will take it out of the case later in the week and see what I can find but 
wanted to see if anyone else had experienced the same problem and what was the 
fix?


73,

Bob

WA4MQW



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[Elecraft] KX1 Problem More Info

2006-12-25 Thread Bob C.
Should have added that the problem continues even with no key installed..  I 
have since reseated the MCU but it still continues to transmit dahs when I 
turn on the power with no key installed.  

Read in the archives that another ham had the same problem with his back in 
June and have sent him an email.   

Any suggestions are appreciated.

72,

Bob

WA4MQW


Bob C. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Has worked fine since building earlier this 
year but after returning from a trip via airline it starts transmitting as soon 
as I turn it on. Sending 'dahs with a key plugged in. When I plug in a key I 
hear its side tone as I normally would under the continuous series of dahs 
being transmitted. When first turned on I see the band is 14mhz then the 
display only shows led bars when it is sending.

I will take it out of the case later in the week and see what I can find but 
wanted to see if anyone else had experienced the same problem and what was the 
fix?


73,

Bob

WA4MQW

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[Elecraft] K2 Frequency stability

2006-12-25 Thread adamkern
Hello again and happy holidays!

With regard to the K2 frequency stability...

Several good points were raised and I realized that I wasn't 
adequately specific before.  The drift I notice is primarily 
related to warmup and not during normal operation.  I will 
perform the aforementioned test to confirm whether the 
instability is primarily in the BFO or PLL oscillator.  
However, the biggest drift occurs after the rig warms up.  
Heavy CW operating with the KPA100 brings the temperature 
very high and this large increase in temp is necessary to 
make the rig drift in frequency any more.

Of course, the distinction between warmup and operating 
drift becomes academic if one turns on the rig from a cold 
start and start operating heavily right away. :)

More commonly, I find that I operate outdoors or somewhere 
where ambient temperature is cold, run CW at 100 watts and 
then drift somewhat shortly after the cold start.  Again, 
I suspect that this is due to warmup drift and not some 
large drift attributable to a malfunctioning temp-
compensated PLL.

On average, from 60 F to warmup the freq at which I zero 
beat WWV drifts down an extremely predictable 50 Hz.  From 
normal operating temp to high temp (e.g. 100W CW operation 
sufficient to kick the KPA100 fan to high) the WWV zero beat 
frequency will move another 20-30 Hz, for a grand total of 
80 Hz relative to a cold start.  There is never any 
unpredictable change in zero beat frequency beyond this.  
Once the rig reaches full operating temperature the drift is 
never greater than 10 Hz.

So it seems that the rig is operating within spec and I have 
nothing to worry about, save to calibrate things so that the 
radio zero beats WWV at operating temperature.  I will 
confirm this by running the test to differentiate between 
PLL and BFO drift.  Correct?

Happy holidays!

Adam, N1KO
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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 Problem

2006-12-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

This has to be a simple matter of a closed (or shorted) dash line.  Does it
behave normally with the key NOT plugged in?  If so, check the key plug
itself with your ohmmeter.  If you find a short between the shell and either
the tip or the ring, check the plug, the cable and your paddles.  If it is
the KXPD1 paddle, remove the rubber grips and see if the problem
disappears - if so, you can spring the contact leaves up a bit, and if not,
you may have to remove the cover over the hole and check to be certain the
wires going to the rear of the jack are not touching the metal body.

It is possible, but unlikely that the problem is inside the KX1.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Has worked fine since building earlier this year but after
 returning from a trip via airline it starts transmitting as soon
 as I turn it on.  Sending 'dahs with a key plugged in.  When I
 plug in a key I hear its side tone as I normally would under the
 continuous series of dahs being transmitted.   When first
 turned on I see the band is 14mhz then the display only shows led
 bars when it is sending.

 I will take it out of the case later in the week and see what I
 can find but wanted to see if anyone else had experienced the
 same problem and what was the fix?



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11:31 AM

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[Elecraft] some questions of W1

2006-12-25 Thread Siu Johnny

Hi Group,

Christmas does give me some spare time to construct the serial cable to 
link the W1 with my notebook computer.


I run W1, K2 with DL1 dummy load.  I notice that the power reading of W1 on 
my notebook computer is higher than that calculated from the DC voltage 
measured on DL1.  For example, I got a power indication of 15 watts from W1 
through my note book.  At the same time, the voltage across TP1 of the DL1 
dummy load is 18.2 watts.  Based on the power formula of DL1, the 
calculated power output should be 13.4 watts.


Without changing any settings of my K2, I used LP100 instead of the W1 this 
time.  I obtained a power reading of 13.5 watts on the LP100.  Apparently, 
the reading from the LP100 is very very close to the power calculated from 
the DL1.


The calibration of W1 was turning the CAL trimmer for 4.5VDC at TP1 before 
this test.  If I want to have a reading from W1 to match the DL1 
calculation or LP100, I have to readjust the CAL trimmer of W1 to arrive a 
reading of 4.82VDC at TP1.


My questions are:

1.  What is the basis of the 4.5VDC as suggested in P.10 of the W1 
construction manual?
2.  Is the power calculated from the DL1 more accurate than the reading of 
W1 based on the calibration mentioned in above?
3.  Since the power calculation from the DL1 is very closed to the reading 
in LP100, should I turn the CAL trimmer in W1 to match with LP100?


Could any of you give me some help?  Christmas time is the quiet time for 
me to do some radio experiments.


TNX  73

Johnny Siu VR2XMC

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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 Problem

2006-12-25 Thread Bob C.
Don,  I left out key info in my first post.  Problem exists even with no key.  
Would  not have posted if the problem was a simple as a shorted key but maybe 
there is still a simple solution and I appreciate all responses.

Will go back and check voltages and resistances after Christmas.

73

Bob


Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bob,

This has to be a simple matter of a closed (or shorted) dash line.  Does it
behave normally with the key NOT plugged in?  If so, check the key plug
itself with your ohmmeter.  If you find a short between the shell and either
the tip or the ring, check the plug, the cable and your paddles.  If it is
the KXPD1 paddle, remove the rubber grips and see if the problem
disappears - if so, you can spring the contact leaves up a bit, and if not,
you may have to remove the cover over the hole and check to be certain the
wires going to the rear of the jack are not touching the metal body.

It is possible, but unlikely that the problem is inside the KX1.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Has worked fine since building earlier this year but after
 returning from a trip via airline it starts transmitting as soon
 as I turn it on.  Sending 'dahs with a key plugged in.  When I
 plug in a key I hear its side tone as I normally would under the
 continuous series of dahs being transmitted.   When first
 turned on I see the band is 14mhz then the display only shows led
 bars when it is sending.

 I will take it out of the case later in the week and see what I
 can find but wanted to see if anyone else had experienced the
 same problem and what was the fix?



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.26/601 - Release Date: 12/24/2006
11:31 AM



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #5549 some questions/remarks

2006-12-25 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 25/12/06 10:53:49 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

1. when  looking at the transmitted signal using a spectrum analyser,
the signal didn't seem as clean as we liked it.  We didn't  have
time (it was the day before X-mas!) to really  start counting the
dB's, but on 30, 12 and 10 m we saw  some signals around the main
signal. Is there any  chance we can get these bands 'cleaner' by
further  tweaking the filters?



-
 
Hi Jurgen,
 
Are you 100% sure that the spurii you are seeing are just not due to you  
overloading the input of the spectrum analyser?
 
This is a common cause of apparent excessive spurii!
 
Merry Christmas to all,
 
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Fred (FL)
What with Elecraft's eventual HF AMPLIFIER(s)
product, becoming available - I'm wondering if this
will mean new K2 builders will not need to go the
KPA100 in-chassis amplifier route?  I've never felt
good about building and layering a KPA100 amplifier
on top of the great little K2 bare bones rig.

With the new Elecraft AMPLIFIER(s) - will us with
bare bones K2's - need to beef up the basic K2
output, to drive the new Elecraft amplifiers?  Will
I need a HF PROJECTS 35W amp in-between?

Plannning for 2007 ..

Fred, N3CSY

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Craig Rairdin
You won't be able to drive the KPA800/1500 products to their full output
with a bare K2.

I don't understand the reluctance to add the KPA100 but at the same time
suggesting a smaller, non-Elecraft amp to drive the new KPA800/1500. You can
build your KPA100 in a separate case if that's the problem. Otherwise, you
will be one of thousands of Elecraft customers happily driving a KPA800/1500
with a K2/100.

Craig
NZ0R
K2/100 #4941
K1 #1966
KX1 #1499

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL)
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 8:30 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?


What with Elecraft's eventual HF AMPLIFIER(s)
product, becoming available - I'm wondering if this
will mean new K2 builders will not need to go the
KPA100 in-chassis amplifier route?  I've never felt
good about building and layering a KPA100 amplifier
on top of the great little K2 bare bones rig.

With the new Elecraft AMPLIFIER(s) - will us with
bare bones K2's - need to beef up the basic K2
output, to drive the new Elecraft amplifiers?  Will
I need a HF PROJECTS 35W amp in-between?

Plannning for 2007 ..

Fred, N3CSY

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[Elecraft] K2 #5549 some questions/remarks

2006-12-25 Thread Gary Hvizdak
On Christmas morning Jurgen wrote ...

Is there any chance we can get these bands 'cleaner' by further tweaking the
filters?

--

Jurgen,

Even though the K2 spec sheet states 10 meter coverage, the K2 is really
only designed to cover the bottom 1.2 MHz of the band.  Here are several
resources on this subject

http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2001-11/msg00685.html
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2001-11/msg00742.html
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2004-03/msg00925.html

http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/10mDL1iAQ.pdf

http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/BpfDL7MAJ.pdf

http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html

73,
Gary
KI4GGX

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 #5549 some questions/remarks

2006-12-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jurgen,

If you peak the 10 meter bandpass filter at 28.4 MHz, you will have greater
power output at 28.8 MHz.
Note that the specified 10 meter band coverage for the K2 is 28.0 to 28.8
MHz.  Above that range, the output power is expected to decrease.

There are mods to increase the 10 meter bandpass filter width if you should
choose to do that.  See http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html for
more information.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
2. Output power on 10m is OK low in the band, but when going higher
   up it decreases to a mere 1,5 W. Moreover the higher we go in the
   band the worse the transmitted spectrum gets (see above). Is it
   possible to set the filters so the complete 10m band can be used
   at a reasonable power? I know, for CW the low part of the band is
   the place to be, but I'd like to also install the SSB option.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Problem Found problem maybe

2006-12-25 Thread Bob C.
Don and Jim thanks for your help. 

 I may have discovered my problem.  On page 18 of the KX1 manual it says DO 
NOT TRIM the 28-pin socket pins before or after soldering. These pins are 
hollow and form the lower part of the socket for the IC pins.  

When building, I was so used to trimming pins after soldering that I made the 
error of trimming the hollow pins after soldering the IC socket.  When I first 
completed the KX1 I remember that U1 the MCU never seemed to seat fully but the 
radio worked fine so I never thought about it anymore.  Since having the 
problem I asked help on, I looked closely at the poor seating and re-read the 
manual (p18) and realize my major mistake.  In the process of trying to seat U1 
today one of the pins broke off but I may be able to solder a small wire to the 
remaining base.

Question for Don, Jim or anyone with experience in this.

If I completely removed the ruined 28pin socket and am able to solder a little 
wire onto the broken pin of U1, would it work to carefully solder U1 directly 
to the circuit board without using the low profile 28 pin socket?

I suspect that all my problems stem from this error I made early on and was 
just lucky that it has worked for  almost 6 mos.

Thanks for all your help again,

Bob

WA4MQW


Bob C. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Should have added that the problem 
continues even with no key installed..  I have since reseated the MCU but it 
still continues to transmit dahs when I turn on the power with no key 
installed.  

Read in the archives that another ham had the same problem with his back in 
June and have sent him an email.   

Any suggestions are appreciated.

72,

Bob

WA4MQW


Bob C.  wrote: Has worked fine since building earlier this year but after 
returning from a trip via airline it starts transmitting as soon as I turn it 
on. Sending 'dahs with a key plugged in. When I plug in a key I hear its side 
tone as I normally would under the continuous series of dahs being 
transmitted. When first turned on I see the band is 14mhz then the display only 
shows led bars when it is sending.

I will take it out of the case later in the week and see what I can find but 
wanted to see if anyone else had experienced the same problem and what was the 
fix?


73,

Bob

WA4MQW

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Tom Althoff
I thought new FCC rules are going to relax limitations on amplifier gain.  I
vaguely recall the Elecraft guys saying they might change the drive level
requirements of the KPA-800 to allow full output power when drivin by 15W
after the new rules went into effect.

- Original Message - 
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 9:38 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?


You won't be able to drive the KPA800/1500 products to their full output
with a bare K2.

I don't understand the reluctance to add the KPA100 but at the same time
suggesting a smaller, non-Elecraft amp to drive the new KPA800/1500. You can
build your KPA100 in a separate case if that's the problem. Otherwise, you
will be one of thousands of Elecraft customers happily driving a KPA800/1500
with a K2/100.

Craig
NZ0R
K2/100 #4941
K1 #1966
KX1 #1499

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL)
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 8:30 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?


What with Elecraft's eventual HF AMPLIFIER(s)
product, becoming available - I'm wondering if this
will mean new K2 builders will not need to go the
KPA100 in-chassis amplifier route?  I've never felt
good about building and layering a KPA100 amplifier
on top of the great little K2 bare bones rig.

With the new Elecraft AMPLIFIER(s) - will us with
bare bones K2's - need to beef up the basic K2
output, to drive the new Elecraft amplifiers?  Will
I need a HF PROJECTS 35W amp in-between?

Plannning for 2007 ..

Fred, N3CSY

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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 Problem Found problem maybe

2006-12-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

The correct way to fix it is to obtain a new firmware chip and socket from
Elecraft.
You certainly can remove the socket and solder the firmware directly into
the PC board, and yes you can use a wire to repair the broken pin.  That is
the least expense and for this instance, it would be expedient.  HOWEVER, if
you ever want to change the firmware, you will have to remove the old
firmware IC at that time (and perhaps install a socket).

The choice is yours to make - electrically it will make no difference,
socket or no socket.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 Question for Don, Jim or anyone with experience in this.

 If I completely removed the ruined 28pin socket and am able to
 solder a little wire onto the broken pin of U1, would it work to
 carefully solder U1 directly to the circuit board without using
 the low profile 28 pin socket?

 I suspect that all my problems stem from this error I made early
 on and was just lucky that it has worked for  almost 6 mos.

 Thanks for all your help again,

 Bob


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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 Problem Found problem maybe

2006-12-25 Thread Ed K1EP
At 12/25/2006 11:27 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Bob,

The correct way to fix it is to obtain a new firmware chip and socket from
Elecraft.
You certainly can remove the socket and solder the firmware directly into
the PC board, and yes you can use a wire to repair the broken pin.  That is
the least expense and for this instance, it would be expedient.  HOWEVER, if
you ever want to change the firmware, you will have to remove the old
firmware IC at that time (and perhaps install a socket).

The choice is yours to make - electrically it will make no difference,
socket or no socket.

You may want to use two low profile sockets if you have a couple in your junk 
box.  Put the firmware chip in one and solder the broken lead to the socket.  
Then solder the second socket to the PCB and install the first.  This allows 
you to replace the firmware chip if necessary.


73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 Question for Don, Jim or anyone with experience in this.

 If I completely removed the ruined 28pin socket and am able to
 solder a little wire onto the broken pin of U1, would it work to
 carefully solder U1 directly to the circuit board without using
 the low profile 28 pin socket?

 I suspect that all my problems stem from this error I made early
 on and was just lucky that it has worked for  almost 6 mos.

 Thanks for all your help again,

 Bob


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 #5549 some questions/remarks

2006-12-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hi, Jurgen:

Regarding 10 meters, the specifications say the K2 will deliver at least 10
watts from 28.0 to 28.8 MHz - a range of 800 kHz. It is not designed to
cover the whole 10 meter band. I'm not sure where you see the power drop
off, but if it's making 10 watts at 28.8 MHz it's working within spec. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jurgen ON5MF
Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2006 11:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 #5549 some questions/remarks


Hi,

First of all Merry Christmas to all of you!

Yesterday I went over to a friend and we did some quick tests on my new 
K2 (basic, no options yet).

To be clear, everything has been aligned with basic tools, as in the 
user manual.

Here are some things we noticed:

   1. when looking at the transmitted signal using a spectrum analyser,
  the signal didn't seem as clean as we liked it.  We didn't have
  time (it was the day before X-mas!) to really start counting the
  dB's, but on 30, 12 and 10 m we saw some signals around the main
  signal. Is there any chance we can get these bands 'cleaner' by
  further tweaking the filters?

   2. Output power on 10m is OK low in the band, but when going higher
  up it decreases to a mere 1,5 W. Moreover the higher we go in the
  band the worse the transmitted spectrum gets (see above). Is it
  possible to set the filters so the complete 10m band can be used
  at a reasonable power? I know, for CW the low part of the band is
  the place to be, but I'd like to also install the SSB option.

   3. When listening to a continuous signal (XG2 for example) there is
  some kind of a (digital) 'thump' in the audio everytime I turn RIT
  or VFO. Is this a normal behaviour or not?


-- 

73

Jurgen Geldhof
ON5MF

[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]



my site:www.on5mf.be http://www.ktk.be

our club:   www.ktk.be http://www.ktk.be  

the Belgian Amateur Radio Society:  www.uba.be
http://www.uba.be


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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Problem Found problem maybe

2006-12-25 Thread Bob C.
Jim,  Glad to know that I was not the only one to make this mistake.  We have 
been trained well to cut pins after soldering.   Thanks for you offer of the 
chip.  Mine is the very latest since I also have the uninstalled 30/80 kit I 
ordered at the same time this summer.  The number label on the chip is KX1 
1.02.  I appreciate your kind offer but I'll just order a new chip and socket 
from Elecraft and not rush this job.

Glen,  I appreciate your advice about breaking up the old socket to help save 
the circuit board in the de-soldering process.  Don't have a vaccum pump just 
the cheap hand (RS) spring loaded type so hope it works.  

This is why I love the Elecraft Group always a great bunch of people ready to 
help  when needed and when not I enjoy and learn from all the posts well most 
of them.

73 to all

Bob

WA4MQW



k4zm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bob:

I did the same thing on the first KX1 I built.  I ordered a new socket from 
Elecraft and replaced it.  If you decide to remove the socket, be sure and 
cut up the socket on the top of the board so that you can remove the pins 
one at a time. That way you will not damage the circuit board.  What is the 
version on the firmware?  I have several chips that I have removed from KX1s 
when I upgraded them with the 30 Meter board and the 80/30 meter mod.  I may 
have one I can send you for free. The one I have is KX1 Ver 1.01 and I also 
found a new socket in my parts box.  You are welcome to both.

73
Jim Younce K4ZM 


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Bob Nielsen
Unfortunately (IMHO) the 15 dB maximum gain limitation was retained  
in the new rules (do we need a KPA400?)


Bob, N7XY

On Dec 25, 2006, at 7:49 AM, Tom Althoff wrote:

I thought new FCC rules are going to relax limitations on amplifier  
gain.  I
vaguely recall the Elecraft guys saying they might change the drive  
level
requirements of the KPA-800 to allow full output power when drivin  
by 15W

after the new rules went into effect.

- Original Message -
From: Craig Rairdin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 9:38 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?


You won't be able to drive the KPA800/1500 products to their full  
output

with a bare K2.

I don't understand the reluctance to add the KPA100 but at the same  
time
suggesting a smaller, non-Elecraft amp to drive the new  
KPA800/1500. You can
build your KPA100 in a separate case if that's the problem.  
Otherwise, you
will be one of thousands of Elecraft customers happily driving a  
KPA800/1500

with a K2/100.

Craig
NZ0R
K2/100 #4941
K1 #1966
KX1 #1499

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL)
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 8:30 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?


What with Elecraft's eventual HF AMPLIFIER(s)
product, becoming available - I'm wondering if this
will mean new K2 builders will not need to go the
KPA100 in-chassis amplifier route?  I've never felt
good about building and layering a KPA100 amplifier
on top of the great little K2 bare bones rig.

With the new Elecraft AMPLIFIER(s) - will us with
bare bones K2's - need to beef up the basic K2
output, to drive the new Elecraft amplifiers?  Will
I need a HF PROJECTS 35W amp in-between?

Plannning for 2007 ..

Fred, N3CSY

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Ken Wagner
Yup... That's the reason I stopped building them. 
73,
Ken Wagner K3IU

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brent Sutphin
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 3:25 PM
To: Craig Rairdin; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

You seem to be correct on your price assessment.  It is a shame that
such a great radio goes so cheap. I have built several and I enjoy
building but just am not willing to lose 20- 30% per kit.  There was a
time when it was easy to get the kit price for a newly built kit.  Just
my two cents.

Brent


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Yes, yes, yes

From what I understand, the KPA800 has two 400 watt power modules combined to 
produce 800 watts. So, a KPA400 with just one of the power modules, a 
built-in lower power antenna tuner, no combiner, a smaller power supply, 
solid state T/R switching, and without some fancy bells and whistles like 
SO2R would be ideal. Integrate it with the K2's power control, band 
switching, and antenna switching like the KPA100/KAT100 combo. A separate 
cabinet styled to match either the K2 or new KPA800/1500 would be just fine.

Price it between the KPA100/KAT100 combo and the KPA800, say between $1500 and 
$2000 or so.

Darrell
VA7TO


On December 25, 2006 10:31 am, Tom Althoff wrote:
 Hmmm...a KPA-400 replacement for the KPA-100 would be a VERY nice addition
 to the K2!

 Imagine a K2 that can go from milliwatts within 6db of the legal limit at
 the turn of a knob!   I could get rid of my Titan II and be perfectly
 content.

 - Tom K2TA

 - Original Message -
 From: Bob Nielsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Unfortunately (IMHO) the 15 dB maximum gain limitation was retained
  in the new rules (do we need a KPA400?)
 

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Oh, and I forgot one thing. No FAN! Just a nice HUGE heatsink. No matter how 
quiet the fan, I just hate fan noise.

The things holding me back from buying a KPA100/KAT100 are only 100 watts and 
the fan. Another 6 db and no moving air noise would tip the scale for me.

On December 25, 2006 01:14 pm, Darrell Bellerive wrote:
 Yes, yes, yes

 From what I understand, the KPA800 has two 400 watt power modules combined
 to produce 800 watts. So, a KPA400 with just one of the power modules, a
 built-in lower power antenna tuner, no combiner, a smaller power supply,
 solid state T/R switching, and without some fancy bells and whistles like
 SO2R would be ideal. Integrate it with the K2's power control, band
 switching, and antenna switching like the KPA100/KAT100 combo. A separate
 cabinet styled to match either the K2 or new KPA800/1500 would be just
 fine.

 Price it between the KPA100/KAT100 combo and the KPA800, say between $1500
 and $2000 or so.

 Darrell
 VA7TO

 On December 25, 2006 10:31 am, Tom Althoff wrote:
  Hmmm...a KPA-400 replacement for the KPA-100 would be a VERY nice
  addition to the K2!
 
  Imagine a K2 that can go from milliwatts within 6db of the legal limit at
  the turn of a knob!   I could get rid of my Titan II and be perfectly
  content.
 
  - Tom K2TA
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Bob Nielsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
   Unfortunately (IMHO) the 15 dB maximum gain limitation was retained
   in the new rules (do we need a KPA400?)

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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Re: [Elecraft] Assembled radio prices (was: KPA100 Elimination?)

2006-12-25 Thread Vic K2VCO

Brent Sutphin wrote:
You seem to be correct on your price assessment.  It is a shame that 
such a great radio goes so cheap. I have built several and I enjoy 
building but just am not willing to lose 20- 30% per kit.  There was a 
time when it was easy to get the kit price for a newly built kit. 


Well, it makes sense.  I wouldn't buy an assembled kit as complicated as 
a K2 unless I knew the builder and was assured of his competence.  Do 
you really want to look for someone else's poorly tinned toroid leads?

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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RE: [Elecraft] Assembled radio prices (was: KPA100 Elimination?)

2006-12-25 Thread Craig Rairdin
I agree that's part of the dynamic at work here. But I also think it's no
different than any other used piece of equipment. I am willing to pay 50% to
70% of the retail price for a current model of some piece of electronic or
computer equipment. I might go as high as 80% if it's a hard-to-find item.
Above that, the benefits of buying new outweigh the savings -- that is, I
get a warranty of some kind and I get to know I'm the first owner so I know
how the equipment has been used.

That maps pretty well to what I see with the Elecraft kits. People count the
kit price as the retail price, and discount from there. I think the fact
that someone has been successfully using the K2 for a year or two is proof
that it's built well enough, and I think some people figure the builder is
more experienced than they are, otherwise they wouldn't have built a kit. So
the same market forces apply and people tend to pay no more than about 80%
of SRP for a current piece of electronic gear.

I believe, but can't prove for sure, that radios sold here on the list
command a higher price than when sold on eBay. It's hard to say since I
don't have the same visibility into the final selling price when the item is
sold privately here on the list.

Craig
NZ0R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Vic K2VCO
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 3:47 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Assembled radio prices (was: KPA100 Elimination?)


Brent Sutphin wrote:
 You seem to be correct on your price assessment.  It is a shame that 
 such a great radio goes so cheap. I have built several and I enjoy 
 building but just am not willing to lose 20- 30% per kit.  There was a 
 time when it was easy to get the kit price for a newly built kit. 

Well, it makes sense.  I wouldn't buy an assembled kit as complicated as 
a K2 unless I knew the builder and was assured of his competence.  Do 
you really want to look for someone else's poorly tinned toroid leads?
-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net -- notes wishes

2006-12-25 Thread Kevin Rock

Hi folks,
   I would like a vote.  This is a semi-democratic sort of thing :)  I  
take votes and then try to find a line to fit through them.  It appears  
the bands both go away as I start the twenty and forty meter nets.  What I  
would like to do is move both of them earlier by an hour.  So twenty would  
meet at 2300Z and forty at 0200z.  This will ease some of the frustration  
of either not being recognized (or even heard in most cases) or me not  
hearing from you all.  Send your ideas to me directly so we do not use too  
much of Eric  Wayne's bandwidth.  I'll post the results later.


   Until then I hope you all are having a very Merry Christmas.  My nephew  
and I banged on the roof a bit so it would lie flatter and covered it all  
with plastic.  Then we started splitting the rounds of the hemlock tree  
which caused the damage.  Both jobs went well and quickly so we spent  
another hour gathering enough wood to fill his truck.  It was a nice way  
to spend Christmas day.  Now to find something to make for dinner.


   Stay warm and dry.  Next week we can work the bands on New Year's Eve.   
Maybe the straight key folks will join us or we can join them.  Doesn't  
matter to me as long as the bands are filled with the sounds of happy  
people making contacts via CW.  A great way to end 2006.

   73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS
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[Elecraft] Adding 80 and 17 Meters KFL1-2 to K1

2006-12-25 Thread Greg


I'm adding an additional two band board to my K1. I have the original 
40/20 board, added sometime back the four band board 40/30/20/15

and am now adding the 80/17 meters board.

All going well until on the 80 meter band kit it mentions about 
adding the 10-uF electrolytic capacitor at C78 on the bottom side of
the RF board. I can not located C78 anywhere on the board. In 
checking the parts list for the RF board I find the capacitor count

only goes up the C75. I have the K1 RF Rev. D board. Am I missing something?

I also see that the trace near TR3 needs to be cut and a choke added. 
No problem with this.


72,
Greg
KI8Af

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 frequencyh stability

2006-12-25 Thread VR2BrettGraham

For a point of reference for N1KO's observed 800 cycle
drift as his K2 warms up with use, I looked up the specs
for one of my non-TCXOd radios (IC-765)  overall the radio
can drift +/- 350 cycles from 0 to 50C  after 1 minute
from switch on, +/- 200 cycles in the first hour.

Bung in a 0.5 ppm TCXO  the 0-50C drift goes down
to +/- 100 cycles.  Again, my 765 does not have one.

Unlike some other rigs also in use here, the 765 does
not use this reference to derive everything it needs inside
(the BFOs are simple crystal oscillators).

Both the 765  my K2 with the all the drift mods were
tweaked on an HP5350B  then left to soak.  The 5350B
is a relatively modern 20 Gc counter  after 30 minutes
from applying mains is in +/- 1 ppm range by itself, even
better with fitted option reference or external references
handy at the time (ultimately a R+S rubidium house
reference, model which escapes me now) - essentially
down to it's own +/- one least significant digit accuracy
spec.  Drift observed was therefore essentially just that of
the radios.

I have yet to get the K2 to indicate the frequency it is
actually on (say 200 cycles)  stay that way based on
gut feeling from side-by-side operation of the two rigs over
a number of years of contesting.

And the 765's walkabout is glaringly obvious when
compared to a TS-950S without TXCO (but uses that
common reference for everything, I believe - can't find
manual at the moment).  With the K2, there is roughly
+/- 500 cycle window that must be considered when near
band edges or trying to find some DX station somebody
else has spotted.

Depending on what one's operations are like, the
accuracy of the K2's frequency readout  amount of drift
observed may or may not be of concern.  It is unrealistic
to expect performance in these areas like some radios,
as it was clearly not intended originally  with mods, is
still probably a bit shy of what might have been possible
if was a design goal - though it certainly beats any
backpack type radio I have had or used.

73, VR2BrettGraham

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Tom Althoff
I'll probably get thrown off of the Elecraft list for what I am about to 
say...8-)

Don't get me wrong...I love QRPmost of my contest participation is at 5W.  
I can work the world with 5W.  And on 10M during a solar peak I can break 
pileups with 5W.  

But my experience is that 100W with a dipole on 160M *IS* QRP...that the 
chances of grabbing a VU7 in a 40M pileup from the U.S. running 5W are pretty 
low and anyone looking to run emergency traffic with 5W only has to try 
checking into the Elecraft CW net to have a sense of what to expect when your 
antennas are down and the water is flowing past your bedroom window.   Turn it 
up to 400W and maybe get heard...and fry some fish as they float by!

QRP...the real skills are at the other end.  boy...am I asking for trouble 
with THAT line!  LOL.

73 de K2TA/qrp
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

I don't think you will be thrown off the list - this is not a QRP reflector,
and with questions about the (hopefully forthcoming soon) KPA800 and
KPA1500, it is definitely not all QRP oriented - there are folks of both the
QRP and QRO persuasions using Elecraft gear.

Your thoughts are consistent with a talk given by Mike Boatright KO4WX at
FDIM last year.  Here he was talking to a bunch of QRP enthusiasts about
Emergency Communications - he made a valid point that you must use enough
power to create a signal above the noise level at the receiving end -
whether that be 1 watt, 5 watts, 100 watts or 1500 watts.  If your signal is
down 'in the mud' at the receiving end, and you must make communication,
there is no choice but to increase power - of course a directional antenna
could increase power at the receiver end if it is pointed in that direction,
but a beam on 80 meters or 160 meters is not a common thing.

Even though we have a 5 watt limit to the QRP category for contests and
such,  the minimum power necessary for reliable communications may exceed
that limit by a large margin.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I'll probably get thrown off of the Elecraft list for what I am
 about to say...8-)

 Don't get me wrong...I love QRPmost of my contest
 participation is at 5W.  I can work the world with 5W.  And on
 10M during a solar peak I can break pileups with 5W.

 But my experience is that 100W with a dipole on 160M *IS*
 QRP...that the chances of grabbing a VU7 in a 40M pileup from the
 U.S. running 5W are pretty low and anyone looking to run
 emergency traffic with 5W only has to try checking into the
 Elecraft CW net to have a sense of what to expect when your
 antennas are down and the water is flowing past your bedroom
 window.   Turn it up to 400W and maybe get heard...and fry some
 fish as they float by!

 QRP...the real skills are at the other end.  boy...am I asking
 for trouble with THAT line!  LOL.

 73 de K2TA/qrp
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 frequencyh stability

2006-12-25 Thread John, KI6WX
I believe the N1KO data was that he observed a drift of 80 Hz, not 800 Hz. 
A drift that large would indicate something seriously wrong in one of the 
oscillators.  The current K2 design is not as good as a TCXO, but it is a 
lot better than an unstabilized crystal oscillator.  It should be possible 
to reduce the drift to significantly less than 100 Hz over a temperature 
range of 10-50C with adjustment of resistor RA in the temperature 
compensation circuit.

-John
KI6WX

- Original Message - 
From: VR2BrettGraham [EMAIL PROTECTED]




For a point of reference for N1KO's observed 800 cycle
drift as his K2 warms up with use, I looked up the specs
for one of my non-TCXOd radios (IC-765)  overall the radio
can drift +/- 350 cycles from 0 to 50C  after 1 minute
from switch on, +/- 200 cycles in the first hour.



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #5549 some questions/remarks

2006-12-25 Thread Wyn Hughes
A few months ago, after completing #5390, I ran a check on the cleanliness of 
the K2 transmitted CW signal on 28Mhz, using the spectrum scope in my IC-781 as 
a spectrum analyser. I could not detect any trace of spurii and the slopes of 
the received trace were sharp and smooth, with the scope set to 5Khz per 
division. Signal also sounded clean and pure to listen to.

I had to set up a high degree of 'attenuation' between the K2/dummy load and 
the IC-781 (with a wire antenna about 1 ft long), which I did by having the K2 
running dits into the dummy load in one room of our apartment, and the IC-781 
in another room some distance away. If you try this, take care to arrange 
enough proper attenuation, to avoid the risk of blowing the RF stage or 
switching diodes in your RX!

73 and Happy Holidays to all,

Wyn, VR2AX





In a message dated 25/12/06 10:53:49 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

1. when  looking at the transmitted signal using a spectrum analyser,
the signal didn't seem as clean as we liked it.  We didn't  have
time (it was the day before X-mas!) to really  start counting the
dB's, but on 30, 12 and 10 m we saw  some signals around the main
signal. Is there any  chance we can get these bands 'cleaner' by
further  tweaking the filters?



-
 
Hi Jurgen,
 
Are you 100% sure that the spurii you are seeing are just not due to you  
overloading the input of the spectrum analyser?
 
This is a common cause of apparent excessive spurii!
 
Merry Christmas to all,
 
Bob, G3VVT
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Elimination?

2006-12-25 Thread Fred (FL)
My original inquiry concerned my options, with a
new K2 build - for adding some more power later down
the pike.  I've always liked separate items; xcvr,
tuner, metering, and amplifiers.  In some way - the
way I upgrade frequently - its easier with all the
pieces, for me to swap/sell out a single item
easier.  And I'm just not nuts about adding a KPA100
on top cover of my neat little QRP K2 rig.  I'd guess
I want to give the K2 all the chance I can, with
having as little RF interaction with a large pcb
amplifier sitting 2 above the K2 plane.  Having had
done hundreds, no thousands, of CAD runs on analog
circuits in my previous life - there are such things
as R/L/C/S/F interactions and optimums.  Perhaps
the K2's digital makeup - helps this.

I really don't understand all that is involved in
moving a KPA100 outside to a separate box.  Looks like
my options are to build that new K2, and wait out the
vendors - impacted by the latest FCC rulings.  I
understand there is a DB increase limit, over what the
base K2 outputs.  Perhaps that will limit my external
choices.  Does anyone know the DB
increase, from 10W PEP to 100W PEP?

What is driving me is the chance, in the future, to
be able to swap out any item in the
xcvr/tuner/amp/antenna string.  Affordably, or with
alternative backup items.

Thanks,
Fred N3CSY

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[Elecraft] K2 in 19inch Rack?

2006-12-25 Thread charliedelta
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1

Has anyone attempted mounting a K2 into a 19 inch  rack case either
with or without the case? Its something i am contemplating doing.
This might be a kit suggestion idea for Elecraft.  A new front
panel design that will mount in a 19 inch rack case. It certainly
could enhance the ergonomics of the K2 and breath some  more life
into the K2 as a fixed station radio.

Craig
VK3HE
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 in 19inch Rack?

2006-12-25 Thread Rick Dettinger

 Has anyone attempted mounting a K2 into a 19 inch  rack case either
 with or without the case? Its something i am contemplating doing.
 This might be a kit suggestion idea for Elecraft.  A new front
 panel design that will mount in a 19 inch rack case. It certainly
 could enhance the ergonomics of the K2 and breath some  more life
 into the K2 as a fixed station radio.

 Craig
 VK3HE
===

At just under 8 inches wide, you could get two  K2's side by side.  With all
the controls mounted to the K2's front panel board, it would be hard to
expand the size in order to use larger knobs with more clearance between
them.  Maybe new controls mounted on the new panel and wired to the K2 front
panel.  Would need to cut the square holes for the push buttons.  Not for
the faint of heart.  And a hole for the real S meter that a larger K2 would
sport.  And a front panel mounted speaker.   Maybe an analog clook removed
from an old Hammarlund HQ-180 receiver.  While we are at it, lets use those
Hammarlund knobs, too. You wouldn't need to put one hand on the rig to keep
it from sliding across the table top, while checking the filter settings.
My friction coefficient is such that I can tap one button but not two at the
same time without relocating the rig.  Last week I entered the shack to find
the K2 shoved tight aginst the wall.  A small tree had fallen across a guy
for one of my antennas and gave the coax a good yank.  This was due to the
same storm that took Elecrafts Net Control Operator first class off the air
a week ago.  A large enough rack panel might stand up to a tree of that
size.  My tree, not Kevins.

Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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[Elecraft] RE K2 stability

2006-12-25 Thread Robert DROGOUL
K2 # 4498, 2 years old !
Just checked this caracteristic : starting from cold (ambiant temp 18 C), tuned 
on RM (9996.000) time station, the receiving frequency was 9995.942, rising to 
9995.985 in about 2 minutes, then to 9996.008 to 011 in the last 20 minutes and 
variing slowly arround this value with time (andprobably, ambiant temp vagaries 
!).
Conclusion, the K2 is very much within the caracteristic, and I think that for 
so simple a concept, the result is more than honnorable, thank to the Elecraft 
team.
A very Happy New Year 2007 to all!
F5UL/Bob
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