[Elecraft] Paddle key setup
When using a paddle key, I have naturally used left (thumb) for dahs and right for dits, and set my gear up that way. I think I read during K1 build and setup that this is reverse from the normal setting. Also read somewere else that the dits on left and dahs on right setup evolved from use of bugs, and that if you were to go to field day and use another's rig with paddle it would most likely be setup that way. I know this may be a subjective question . . . but is there a standard for this? Is it purely personal preference? I would be interested in your insight and opinions! 73, Mike N4JX K1/4 2319 on the air K2 6042 next project ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Paddle key setup
As you noted, the standard way is to make dits with the thumb, and this practice was indeed adopted because that is how bugs worked. If you do it differently, though, so be it. Most new radios now have the ability to switch this via a menu selection, so that even if you do go to Field Day and use someone else's gear, it should be relatively simple to change the setting. 73! Dan KB6NU -- CW Geek and MI Affiliated Club Coordinator Read my ham radio blog at www.kb6nu.com LET'S GET MORE KIDS INTO HAM RADIO! On Mar 20, 2007, at 6:56 AM, Mike Geddes wrote: When using a paddle key, I have naturally used left (thumb) for dahs and right for dits, and set my gear up that way. I think I read during K1 build and setup that this is reverse from the normal setting. Also read somewere else that the dits on left and dahs on right setup evolved from use of bugs, and that if you were to go to field day and use another's rig with paddle it would most likely be setup that way. I know this may be a subjective question . . . but is there a standard for this? Is it purely personal preference? I would be interested in your insight and opinions! 73, Mike N4JX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Resistor
Ken, From everything you read values from 5K Ohms to 10K is listed. I use 10 K Ohms and it works very well with both an ICOM mike and the Hail headset sold by Elecraft. 73 Dave ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Resistor
For the K2, 5k to 6k is a better value. The 10k is typically used where the transceiver provides an 8 volt source - but the K2 provides 5 volts, so the lower value is better. The actual value is not critical. 73, Don W3FPR David Robertson wrote: Ken, From everything you read values from 5K Ohms to 10K is listed. I use 10 K Ohms and it works very well with both an ICOM mike and the Hail headset sold by Elecraft. 73 Dave ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
I finished the K2 (6065) at about 10pm last night, everything was nominal, my only concern being the low output power on 15 meters (7 watts). I should go back and do a full alignment as handing the RF board was sure to disturb the mounted parts... The entire kit had one missing .1 cap, or I lost it, I had one on hand to use so no problem. I do NEED a knob with a finger dimple! Between 10 and 1130 PM I heard some signals on 80 and 40 meters, not much on the other bands although I did not listen carefully. I think filter 2 needs a tweak and the built in speaker sounds fuzzy, but otherwise all is good. All the adjustments worked, and did not require much tweaking, nothing was at the limit or close to it, most things were quite close right out of the bag. I want to get the ssb option and the auto tuner eventually, and listen to plenty of slow code, then might actually get on the air with the rig! I did not track the hours, but I got the kit Thursday, worked on it Thursday night, Friday night, most of Saturday, Sunday night, and Monday night. The XYL is thrilled its done Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XV mods
I don't know if others have had the issues I've had with the XV transverters, but I thought I'd report on my efforts this weekend .. I run a stack of 4 XVs driving high-power TE amps in my rover. Antennas are short yagis spaced relatively close to each other on one mast. I've experienced failures of the PHEMT due to the large amount of RF present on the unselected transverters, whose configuration leaves the gate of the PHEMT connected to the antenna connector in that state. I suspect bandpass filters would probably eliminate the problem (I have one on the 6M, but space is at a premium ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XV mods
sorry about that, accidentally hit send :) I don't know if others have had the issues I've had with the XV transverters, but I thought I'd report on my efforts this weekend .. I run a stack of 4 XVs driving high-power TE amps in my rover. Antennas are short yagis spaced relatively close to each other on one mast. I've experienced failures of the PHEMT due to the large amount of RF present on the unselected transverters, whose configuration leaves the gate of the PHEMT connected to the antenna connector in that state. I suspect bandpass filters would probably eliminate the problem (I have one on the 6M station and it's not given me any problems), but space is at a premium in the rover. I decided to modify the XVs in the following fashion: I remove the jumper from the antenna connector to the pad leading to the common on K1, and attach it to the W3 pad that's connected to the NO contact, then cut the trace between the NO contact and W3 (leaving W3 and the N connector connected to the output circuitry). I short the K1 common to ground. K1's NC contact is conveniently already tied to the input circuitry, and I add W2 for split output. Cut trace to K1 coil and reroute to 12V (powered when XV selected). This repurposes K1 to short the input circuitry to ground whenever K1 is not energized (XV not selected). It's an easy mod for 6/2/222, but a bit of a PITA for 432 (W3 is under K1). I've also modified my TE amps by removing the T/R relay, and am adding external T/R after the amp. de w1rt/john ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Keyer paddle setup
Mike, Assuming you ARE right-handed ... your setup is definately different, and the convention is ... and always has been ... to use the right paddle for dashes. I'd be interested in how/why you learned this backwards way of sending. A related item ... in the pre-computer logging days of contesting one could quickly learn left-hand sending by simply turning the paddles away from the sender and reach over the top of the key. This left the right hand free for logging. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Keyer paddle setup
No less than three Ops on Pratas Island, BQ9P, where we used paper logging, turned my paddle around as you mentioned. At the time I thought there should be a better way. de Joe, aa4nn A related item ... in the pre-computer logging days of contesting one could quickly learn left-hand sending by simply turning the paddles away from the sender and reach over the top of the key. This left the right hand free for logging. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] XV mods
John, Would external coaxial notching filters be practical for you? Another thought (perhaps easier to implement) is an added small relay in each transverter to RF ground the PHEMT's gate (or antenna connection) in the unselected transverters. This would avoid the increase in noise figures caused by the insertion loss of added bandpass filters. I don't have the circuit diagrams to hand to see if the capacity between open relay contacts would upset things when connected to the selected PHEMT's gate or whether it could be tuned out. 73, Geoff GM4ESD - Original Message - From: John D'Ausilio [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft Mailing List elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 12:52 PM Subject: [Elecraft] XV mods I run a stack of 4 XVs driving high-power TE amps in my rover. Antennas are short yagis spaced relatively close to each other on one mast. I've experienced failures of the PHEMT due to the large amount of RF present on the unselected transverters, whose configuration leaves the gate of the PHEMT connected to the antenna connector in that state. I suspect bandpass filters would probably eliminate the problem (I have one on the 6M, but space is at a premium ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Keyer paddle setup
I normally use my right hand to send and, indeed, learned to use my thumb for dits. Electronically reversing the function and putting the paddle on my left, I can use my left hand without much training. My brain simply seems to cope with that... 72, Peter - Original Message - From: Joe-aa4nn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 5:03 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Keyer paddle setup No less than three Ops on Pratas Island, BQ9P, where we used paper logging, turned my paddle around as you mentioned. At the time I thought there should be a better way. de Joe, aa4nn A related item ... in the pre-computer logging days of contesting one could quickly learn left-hand sending by simply turning the paddles away from the sender and reach over the top of the key. This left the right hand free for logging. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Paddle key setup
Mike Geddes wrote: When using a paddle key, I have naturally used left (thumb) for dahs and right for dits, and set my gear up that way. I know this may be a subjective question . . . but is there a standard for this? Is it purely personal preference? As at least one other have said, the standard arose from the construction of mechanical bugs ... dits on left. I seem to remember you could get Vibroplex or McElroy to build you a reversed bug if you had a *lot* of money. Few did. Some time ago as a part of an on-going thread, we conducted an informal survey on this reflector regarding key/bug/paddle use: The vast majority of hams use a straight key with their dominant hand. The sample size of those who use bugs was pretty small, but most of the left-handers and all of the right-handers bug-ed right-handed. The couple of lefties that used their left hand just accepted dits on the fingers instead of the thumb. Nearly all northpaws paddled north. About half of the southpaws paddle north, ostensibly to leave the left hand for writing [I'm in that group]. Don't know why that wouldn't apply to right-handers as well, but it seemed that if you are right-handed, you are *really* right-handed. Maybe because it is a right-handed world and righties don't have to adapt. Most have dits on the left, regardless of which hand they like best. Since radios nowadays generally let you choose [and you can always wire your paddle as you wish as well], it really comes down to, Whatever floats your boat. If someone's paddle is setup backwards for you, you can just turn it around on the table and put your hand over the top if you can't find the menu setting on the radio. Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7 - www.cqp.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Keyer paddle setup
I took a slightly different approach. I am nominally left-handed but since I operated at a variety of commercial and military sites as well as my personal Amateur station, I chose to learn to use a right handed bug (yes, there were expensive 'left handed' bugs available). Sending with my right hand freed my left hand to write while I'm sending. That is, if I can write and send CW at the same time. Personally I'm still working on walking while chewing gum... Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Peter PA0PJE Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 12:54 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Keyer paddle setup I normally use my right hand to send and, indeed, learned to use my thumb for dits. Electronically reversing the function and putting the paddle on my left, I can use my left hand without much training. My brain simply seems to cope with that... 72, Peter ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 paddle fix?
Hi cousin Bob Another idea is a blast from the past: it was common to use a very thin piece of rubber band inserted before the screw. It's a bit fiddly to get it in but it worked well in old IF transformers. David G3UNA - Original Message - From: Bob Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:21 PM Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 paddle fix? Any ideas on keeping the paddle screw tight? Mine seems to work loose easily, Locktite or similar would work but I want to remove it. 72, Bob KI0G We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list. http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Zero beat WWV
I have setup Spectogram, and have 500 600 Hz markers setup. I then set the K2 to 1.00, in U mode, and adjust the frequency until I have either 500 or 600 Hz depending on which minute it is (odd minutes being a 600 Hz tone and even being a 500 Hz tone, even though this seems backwards of how it should be). I then used this zero beat reference, and the procedure on page 101 of the K2 manual so that I have it down to U or L mode is zero beat at .99. I notice the calibration on page 101 of the K2 manual says to use U or L mode. My question, is how much should the offset be when I go to CW mode? I am trying to track down why my CW RX frequency is so far from my USB frequency (was 1500 Hz off at one point). I have it better, but I am sure the issue is with how I did the alignments. -- David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 RF Gain
My recently completed KX1 seems to perhaps have an issue with the RF gain. That is, it seems to have virtually no effect. If I did not know that the FR gain pot was being adjusted, I would not detect the change. As it is, I can barely detect the difference when I twist it to opposite extremes. What could be the cause of this? Also, when I turn the tuning dial, I can *hear* each *click* through the headphones, almost as if there's a short somewhere. I do not remember any of this during earlier testing stages, but I'm noticing it now. And I do hear signals, so the receiver seems to be operating fine. Any ideas? Thanks, 73 de K6BQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Station computer OS
Hello Douglas. Unfortunately there is no single suite of programs for Linux like Ham Radio Deluxe. You can come close with individual programs. FLdigi is an excellent Linux alternative to MixW on Windows. I'll second the motion on the Debian alternatives like Ubuntu. The install is actually easier and shorter than Windows. -- R. Kevin Stover ACØH K2/100 #4684 Reclaim Your Inbox! http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Keyer paddle setup
Thanks for all the great feedback! I am a relatively new CW op (though of course passed it for my licenses along the way) but only more recently wanting to improve my skills and develop somewhat of a decent fist. To that end, I have taken the microphone off of my big rig and starting to be more regular on CW. Been using my recently built K1 the most lately. The good news is that I don't think I am too entrenched in my current mode to change to the more standard mode. I think it is like anything . . . important to learn good form early in the development of a skill, because it is much more difficult to change once proficiency is reached. Not sure why I started with dahs on left. I built some QRP kits and guess I just wired them that way. Never really have had a CW op elmer. But I have a bunch on this great site! Thanks again for your feedback. It was interesting and helpful. 73, Mike N4JX K1/4 # 2319 on the air K2 # 6042 next project - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 4:20 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Keyer paddle setup I took a slightly different approach. I am nominally left-handed but since I operated at a variety of commercial and military sites as well as my personal Amateur station, I chose to learn to use a right handed bug (yes, there were expensive 'left handed' bugs available). Sending with my right hand freed my left hand to write while I'm sending. That is, if I can write and send CW at the same time. Personally I'm still working on walking while chewing gum... Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Peter PA0PJE Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 12:54 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Keyer paddle setup I normally use my right hand to send and, indeed, learned to use my thumb for dits. Electronically reversing the function and putting the paddle on my left, I can use my left hand without much training. My brain simply seems to cope with that... 72, Peter ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Fw: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kit arrived... Wow, that was a fast build! Since I enjoy kit building . . . I am going to stretch my K2 #6042 out just a bit, and enjoy the journey as well as the destination. Congratulations on your build and hope you get a lot of pleasure from you K2. 73, Mike N4JX K1/4 # 2319 on the air K2# 6042 next project - Original Message - From: Brett gazdzinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 8:43 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Kit arrived... I finished the K2 (6065) at about 10pm last night, everything was nominal, my only concern being the low output power on 15 meters (7 watts). I should go back and do a full alignment as handing the RF board was sure to disturb the mounted parts... The entire kit had one missing .1 cap, or I lost it, I had one on hand to use so no problem. I do NEED a knob with a finger dimple! Between 10 and 1130 PM I heard some signals on 80 and 40 meters, not much on the other bands although I did not listen carefully. I think filter 2 needs a tweak and the built in speaker sounds fuzzy, but otherwise all is good. All the adjustments worked, and did not require much tweaking, nothing was at the limit or close to it, most things were quite close right out of the bag. I want to get the ssb option and the auto tuner eventually, and listen to plenty of slow code, then might actually get on the air with the rig! I did not track the hours, but I got the kit Thursday, worked on it Thursday night, Friday night, most of Saturday, Sunday night, and Monday night. The XYL is thrilled its done Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Zero beat WWV
Dave, If you have WWV properly tuned at .99 (when in SSB mode), that is only 10 Hz off frequency, and is well within the range of error to be expected with the K2. The digital quantizing error is about 20 Hz. The K2 always displays the frequency of the carrier - so when tuned properly to WWV, you will hear (or see on Spectrogram) the tones demodulated (as you have done), but when switching to CW, you should hear the carrier at the pitch you have set for the sidetone. When listening to WWV in CW mode it is easy to mistake one of the tones they transmit for the carrier. At the times they transmit a 600 Hz tone, you will be able to hear discrete signals at .40, 10,000.00 and 10,000.60 since it is an AM signal transmitting a 600 Hz tone. (You can hear one signal at the carrier minus the transmitted tone pitch, the carrier itself, and another signal at the carrier plus the tone pitch.) If the CW filter is narrow enough, you will hear each of these signals as separate signals in the receiver - you must be careful to identify the actual carrier. Using the wrong one will create a large apparent error in your dial readout. It is best to tune WWV during the minutes they do not transmit a tone - tune the carrier to your sidetone pitch and the dial should read correctly. Just adjust the CW BFOs so the passband is centered at your chosen sidetone pitch (using a noise input, NOT a single signal) - and set the dial calibration in LSB or USB, then believe that the K2 will take care of the offset for you. On CW, the dial readout will be the carrier frequency of the station you are listening to and will also be the frequency you will transmit on. 73, Don W3FPR David Wilburn wrote: I have setup Spectogram, and have 500 600 Hz markers setup. I then set the K2 to 1.00, in U mode, and adjust the frequency until I have either 500 or 600 Hz depending on which minute it is (odd minutes being a 600 Hz tone and even being a 500 Hz tone, even though this seems backwards of how it should be). I then used this zero beat reference, and the procedure on page 101 of the K2 manual so that I have it down to U or L mode is zero beat at .99. I notice the calibration on page 101 of the K2 manual says to use U or L mode. My question, is how much should the offset be when I go to CW mode? I am trying to track down why my CW RX frequency is so far from my USB frequency (was 1500 Hz off at one point). I have it better, but I am sure the issue is with how I did the alignments. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] more power out measurement
I have a dummy load that I made up out of 10x 510 ohm resistors in parallel [51 ohms, 30w]. I checked this with my MFJ 259B that says it's flat on all the HF bands. I then hook this load directly to the output jack and measure the voltage across it using the K2 RF probe and a DMM. I calculate the expected RMS voltage as a function of power. I then increase K2/100 power until I see the expected voltage [power], and then set R26 so that the LCD shows the correct power. This all sounds okay in theory. Does any one have a comment on the accuracy of the setting using this method and/or hidden variables that I may have missed? Thanks much. ...robert #5957 Robert G. Strickland PhD ABPH - KE2WY [EMAIL PROTECTED] Syracuse, New York USA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Zero beat WWV
Good stuff Don. Thanks. Yea, the .99, I was not worried about at all. It is the 1300 Hz I have to wander over to, to get the CW signal that is bothering me. I am experiencing the same thing with local signals, I have generated from other radios. I will check out WWV during the quiet time and see what I find. As far as Just adjust the CW BFOs so the passband is centered..., what are you telling me to do here? I have run through c22 adjustment (started out at 1.09 for WWV, and got to .99 using the Wayne method), CAL PLL and CAL FIL (with Spectrogram) at least 3 times. Should I go back and do the BFO test? Admittedly, it is possible, even likely, that I am making the same mistake each time I have run them. I have seen the U and L frequency readout get better, but not the CW. Additionally, it transmits on the correct frequency. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 Don Wilhelm wrote: Dave, If you have WWV properly tuned at .99 (when in SSB mode), that is only 10 Hz off frequency, and is well within the range of error to be expected with the K2. The digital quantizing error is about 20 Hz. The K2 always displays the frequency of the carrier - so when tuned properly to WWV, you will hear (or see on Spectrogram) the tones demodulated (as you have done), but when switching to CW, you should hear the carrier at the pitch you have set for the sidetone. When listening to WWV in CW mode it is easy to mistake one of the tones they transmit for the carrier. At the times they transmit a 600 Hz tone, you will be able to hear discrete signals at .40, 10,000.00 and 10,000.60 since it is an AM signal transmitting a 600 Hz tone. (You can hear one signal at the carrier minus the transmitted tone pitch, the carrier itself, and another signal at the carrier plus the tone pitch.) If the CW filter is narrow enough, you will hear each of these signals as separate signals in the receiver - you must be careful to identify the actual carrier. Using the wrong one will create a large apparent error in your dial readout. It is best to tune WWV during the minutes they do not transmit a tone - tune the carrier to your sidetone pitch and the dial should read correctly. Just adjust the CW BFOs so the passband is centered at your chosen sidetone pitch (using a noise input, NOT a single signal) - and set the dial calibration in LSB or USB, then believe that the K2 will take care of the offset for you. On CW, the dial readout will be the carrier frequency of the station you are listening to and will also be the frequency you will transmit on. 73, Don W3FPR David Wilburn wrote: I have setup Spectogram, and have 500 600 Hz markers setup. I then set the K2 to 1.00, in U mode, and adjust the frequency until I have either 500 or 600 Hz depending on which minute it is (odd minutes being a 600 Hz tone and even being a 500 Hz tone, even though this seems backwards of how it should be). I then used this zero beat reference, and the procedure on page 101 of the K2 manual so that I have it down to U or L mode is zero beat at .99. I notice the calibration on page 101 of the K2 manual says to use U or L mode. My question, is how much should the offset be when I go to CW mode? I am trying to track down why my CW RX frequency is so far from my USB frequency (was 1500 Hz off at one point). I have it better, but I am sure the issue is with how I did the alignments. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 low resistance on Q1 / Q2
Hi to the group I completed my K2 and now am building the KPA 100. Manual Rev C, Feb 2004. On page 41, Alignment and Installation Resistance measurements are made between ground and test point. J3, Q1 Collector, Q2 collector, and Q9 tab are all within the the spec,s as listed in the table. Q1 base and Q2 base to ground I get lower then expected resistance values. 11.4 Ohms. Should I be concerned about this reading since the manual calls for 12 - 16 ohms? I also had some problems getting a reading at D13 cathode end. After several tries I did get a reading according to spec,s. thanks for any assistance, 73's Hank WA9QJH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Zero beat WWV
Dave, Maybe now I understand where your problem is - I suggest you proceed as follows: First, adjust the filters so the passbands for all the filters you will use are positioned properly. Use Spectrogram and a noise input to the K2 to see where the passbands are positioned. This is the initial adjustment of the filters - you are looking only to position the passband at this point. Then adjust the 4 MHz oscillator (C22) accurately. Do that as follows: 1) Tune in WWV correctly in LSB or USB mode (ignore the dial reading) 2) Enter CAL FCTR and alternate the counter probe between TP1 and TP2 - if the low order digits are not the same, adust C22 until they are the same. Do not change C22 from that setting unless you start all over again. Put the probe into TP1, switch to 40 meters and run CAL PLL. When CAL PLL has finished, put the probe in TP2 and enter CAL FIL. There is no need to reposition the passbands since you have already done that, but you need to force the K2 to write new BFO values into the EEPROM - so proceed as follows: 1) Set the mode to LSB FL1 and tap the BAND- button. You should see FL1t nnn (where nnn is some number) in the display. 2) Note the number in the display and change it to the next number (up or down), then set it back to the original number. 3) Tap the XFIL button to move to LSB FL2 - change its number and change it back. 4) Tap XFIL again to move to FL3 and do the same thing - repeat for FL4 and then return to FL1. 5) Tap the MODE button to change to USB and repeat steps 2 thru 4 above. 6) do the same thing for CW, CWr, and if you have RTTY turned on, do the same for RTTY and RTTYr. When you have done those steps (in order) then exit the menu, switch to 10 MHz, tune WWV in LSB mode again to check your work - the frequency displayed should be within 20 Hz of 10,000.00 - if it is not, start over at the 4 MHz reference adjustment to refine that setting and follow through the steps again. If WWV does tune correctly in LSB mode, switch to CW mode and you should hear the WWV carrier appear at the audio frequency that you have set for the sidetone pitch. If that is true, your K2 is properly calibrated. The adjustment of C22 will do nothing during normal operation of the K2. The 4 MHz oscillator can drift all over the map and you will not notice any change. The K2 does not dynamically use the reference oscillator for frequency determination in normal operation. However, it does have to be accurate before doing the CAL PLL or the CAL FIL procedures, because it IS used during those procedures to determine the frequency of whichever point the probe is connected to - the resulting frequency values are then written into EEPROM and the EEPROM values are used afterward to determine the frequency readout. 73, Don W3FPR David Wilburn wrote: Good stuff Don. Thanks. Yea, the .99, I was not worried about at all. It is the 1300 Hz I have to wander over to, to get the CW signal that is bothering me. I am experiencing the same thing with local signals, I have generated from other radios. I will check out WWV during the quiet time and see what I find. As far as Just adjust the CW BFOs so the passband is centered..., what are you telling me to do here? I have run through c22 adjustment (started out at 1.09 for WWV, and got to .99 using the Wayne method), CAL PLL and CAL FIL (with Spectrogram) at least 3 times. Should I go back and do the BFO test? Admittedly, it is possible, even likely, that I am making the same mistake each time I have run them. I have seen the U and L frequency readout get better, but not the CW. Additionally, it transmits on the correct frequency. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW K2 #5982 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 low resistance on Q1 / Q2
Hank, The newest manual calls for greater than 11.2 ohms. You must be using an older manual. You are just fine with 11.4 ohms. 73, Don W3FPR Hank Kryger wrote: Hi to the group I completed my K2 and now am building the KPA 100. Manual Rev C, Feb 2004. On page 41, Alignment and Installation Resistance measurements are made between ground and test point. J3, Q1 Collector, Q2 collector, and Q9 tab are all within the the spec,s as listed in the table. Q1 base and Q2 base to ground I get lower then expected resistance values. 11.4 Ohms. Should I be concerned about this reading since the manual calls for 12 - 16 ohms? I also had some problems getting a reading at D13 cathode end. After several tries I did get a reading according to spec,s. thanks for any assistance, 73's Hank WA9QJH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] more power out measurement
Robert, All that sounds fine - your theory is impeccable! There are 2 limitations - first is that the voltage breakdown of the diode forces you to do this calibration at a power under 20 watts or so, and second, the wattmeter diodes may not be exactly linear which will produce errors at the higher end of the power range. The wattmeter scaling resistors in the KPA100 are 1% tolerance, so the ratio is quite good. I suggest that you use a power of about 10 watts when doing that calibration. Remove the power from the KPA100 and power only the base K2 to make things easier. Calibrate at 10 watts and then the scaling resistors should make the calibration at 100 watts almost as accurate. If you try to make the calibration at 20 watts and make even small measurement errors, those errors multiply at 100 watts, but relying on the accuracy of the scaling resistors and calibrating at 10 watts will yield a far greater accuracy than attempting to calibrate at say 20 watts (or anywhere on th elow end of the 'high power' range. Try it, I believe you will find the results quite acceptable. I frequently use that method when calibrating a wattmeter, but instead of trying to adjust the power to a certain value, I read the RF voltage on my 'scope, do a quick calculation and set the pot to the result of the calculation. Reading the Peak to Peak RF voltage, I can quickly calculate the power as V^2/8R (the denominator is 400 for a 50 ohm load), or if one is using a zero-to-peak indicating diode detector (like the one used in the DL1) connected directly across the load, the power is V^2/2R - if the power is greater than 5 watts, the diode drop becomes negligible in the equations. 73, Don W3FPR Robert G. Strickland wrote: I have a dummy load that I made up out of 10x 510 ohm resistors in parallel [51 ohms, 30w]. I checked this with my MFJ 259B that says it's flat on all the HF bands. I then hook this load directly to the output jack and measure the voltage across it using the K2 RF probe and a DMM. I calculate the expected RMS voltage as a function of power. I then increase K2/100 power until I see the expected voltage [power], and then set R26 so that the LCD shows the correct power. This all sounds okay in theory. Does any one have a comment on the accuracy of the setting using this method and/or hidden variables that I may have missed? Thanks much. ...robert #5957 Robert G. Strickland PhD ABPH - KE2WY [EMAIL PROTECTED] Syracuse, New York USA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and unbuilt accessories FS
Way too many rigs on hand and more on the way. Elecraft K2 S/N 2481 with KAF2, KSB2, and K160RX. Asking $675. Unbuilt K2 accessory kits: KNB2 noise blanker $25, KAT2 internal antenna tuner $135, KPA100 100w amplifier $295. All kits purchased circa 2002 and reflect my cost. Gary [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Nominating Don Wilmelm for QRPer of Year?
Doc et al... Ya Got My Vote On That For Sure..! All The Way From Bonnie Scotland Over the years, there have been many people of differing distinguished and not so distinguished levels... that we As the admirers put in high places in society and the world over... President Lincoln Nelson Mandela Dr. Martin Luther King Elvis The King Presley Bob Dylan The Beatles The Rolling Stones Neil Armstrong To name but a few... I'm sure folks will join us here and add their own names to the list.. All these folks in their Respective individual callings have brought to us enjoyment, Wisdom, Love, Peace And Harmony.. and above all Understanding of things that they seem to have a natural ability for and we struggle to comprehend... the chosen ones, who seem to have been Put here amongst us on Earth for a purpose... I can truly say, that although YES, there is no argument, those before who have been indicted into The Hall Of Fame For their outstanding achievements and contributions to this wonderful hobby that we are SO blessed and humbled to be Part of, deserve each and every one of their achilades,... Don Wilhelm is by far in my mind the sole person, who I would\will vote for if ever there comes a way of us mere Subjects doing so, to entry into the Hall Of Fame,... You summed it up exactly for us ALL Doc when you said . probably most of us have benefitted from Don's selfless and likely unselfconscious donations to our hobby through the years, both online and directly... I am TOTALLY ashamed to admit nearly over 5 years I have had K2 S/n 01432 now, ... and she's STILL not finished,..like most Of us, life has taken me in a different direction lately, the road has been very... rocky... but I know that soon, when I Get back to the soldering iron, that Don and his ever helpful self will be there, just waiting in the wings, for those fallen Comrades in help of a friendly face and hand.. (Hope your listenin Mr Wilhelm... there may be trouble ahead..!) Just my 2 cents\ pennies worth... Hope someone can get this underway. The numbers add up both here on the list and out there In the ether.. Without his and folks like Tom Hammonds help, the QRP Fraternity would'nt be the same... Elecrafts products ARE 2nd-To-Non... THEY have set the standard... the others to take suite and try to follow... Don and the boys contributions and friendship just make the experience even more enjoyable and worthwhile for us all.. God Bless You Don and ALL The Un-sung Hero's Out There... We Need You Guys... Much Obliged... 72's Andy GM0NWI K2 Fully Loaded QRP S/n 01432 K2 Fully Loaded QRO S/n 05469 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.14/727 - Release Date: 19/03/2007 11:49 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Need Help with K2 build
I recently purchased a new K2 to replace my older one that I sold a while ago. I am to the first power up test stage. Everything checks out normal except when I go to measure the 4.0 freq on the control board at the left side of C22. I get all 00s. I have checked the freq probe for shorts and all is normal. I removed the heat shrink and checked the coax to the capacitor and it checks good as well as checking good at the solder joints on the back side of of P6. I even tried to measure the freq at pin 14 on U6 and get all 0s. I checked X2 for shorts to ground and none were found as well as shorts between the crystal leads and none were found. I have continuity to pin 14 to C22 on U6. The freq probe does work when I touch my finger on the tip. I am suspecting a bad component Where do I look? Can I continue to the next build stage? Thanks, Glenn WA7SPY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
After work today I got much closer with the vfo calibration, and moved onto the TX alignment. I hooked up the dummy load and the 0-20 watt meter. 3.5 MHz 12.5 watts out, 2.7 amps 7 MHz 14 watts out, 4.3 amps 10 MHz 10 watts out, 2.4 amps 14 MHz 8 watts out,2.3 amps 18 MHz 9 watts out 1.8 amps 21 MHz 9 watts out,1.8 amps 24 MHz 6 watts out,1.5 amps 28 MHz 5 watts out,1.8 amps 13.8 volts per my DMM. When tuning C21 in the 30 meter bandpass, the output power would take off and go to 20 watts till I turned the power down then back up, then it acted normal. In my kit, C22 was a 2.7pf, not the 3.3pf listed. I assumed the 2.7 was what they could get instead of the 3.3. Something is really wrong there, but the parts seem to be the correct values, the toroids have the correct turns, etc. I checked the voltage at the RF output detector and its ok. I looked into all the trouble shooting steps in the manual, made sure all the correct parts are in the correct places, the toroids have the correct turns, etc. Nothing gets hot, or even warm, despite the 5 minute key downs at full power. Looking at things on the spec an, after the power knob is up past 1/2 to 3/4 the harmonics go way up, but I might be picking signal up before the filters. One other thing I noticed, the RF watt meter built into the rig reads correct on 80 and 40, but does not reflect the lower power output on the higher bands, its still pegged. I looked at the signal on the spec an, probing the driver input and output power levels, and I don't think the drive falls off, I did not probe the output of the power amp as it would risk the spec an (1 watt max input). I don't need lots of power out, but dislike when something does not work up to spec. The receiver seems to work very well, although I have not run the spectrogram on the filters yet. Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] The K2: Great Receiver + the KAF2 Mod
I just finished a qso with a guy in the Midwest. The receiving ability of the K2 just blew me away. The radio just kept right on pulling that signal out of more noise than I could believe. It also filtered out a couple of malicious transmissions, especially after I turned on the KAF2! The noise level was high enough to give me a headache... but that qso kept going thanks to one incredible receiver. Wayne, Eric and everyone who has had a part to play in developing this radio... thank you! Incredible! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
Bret, I am not certain what you mean by the phrase the RF watt meter built into the rig reads correct on 80 and 40, but does not reflect the lower power output on the higher bands, its still pegged. What do you mean by pegged? Is the internal RF meter indicating a high RF voltage? If so, you should believe that the RF voltage is really high and something is wrong with your test setup. The detector used in the basic K2 is a simple diode detector and does accurately reflect the RF voltage, and the microprocessor calculates that value to watts with the assumption that the load is 50 ohms resistive. Is your load at the time of these measurements a good 50 ohm resistive dummy load? If you do have a good 50 ohm dummy load on the K2, then I would strongly suggest that you check your connecting coax link before doing anything else. What kind of power meter are you using? How has its accuracy been verified? We need to know exactly what your setup is before we can provide informed answers to your questions. How are you measuring the current draw? Is this the indication on the K2 or are you using some other measuring device? All in all, what I can say at the moment is that the base K2 will control its power output according to the RF voltage indicated at the internal diode detector. That detector is not a wattmeter and needs a good 50 ohm resistive load in order for the K2 to control the power output. As far as adjusting C21 - adjust any of the bandpass filter elements at a power of 2 watts or lower. Attempting to adjust them at higher power levels can lead to incorrect alignment due to several other factors. How are you determining that the harmonic content goes way up? That is unusual and indicates that you have a problem with soldering or incorrect components somewhere. The usual cause of high current draw coupled with low power output is the Low Pass Filters and/or the T4 circuitry. Do you have T4 properly wound? 73, Don W3FPR Brett gazdzinski wrote: After work today I got much closer with the vfo calibration, and moved onto the TX alignment. I hooked up the dummy load and the 0-20 watt meter. 3.5 MHz 12.5 watts out, 2.7 amps 7 MHz 14 watts out, 4.3 amps 10 MHz 10 watts out, 2.4 amps 14 MHz 8 watts out,2.3 amps 18 MHz 9 watts out 1.8 amps 21 MHz 9 watts out,1.8 amps 24 MHz 6 watts out,1.5 amps 28 MHz 5 watts out,1.8 amps 13.8 volts per my DMM. When tuning C21 in the 30 meter bandpass, the output power would take off and go to 20 watts till I turned the power down then back up, then it acted normal. In my kit, C22 was a 2.7pf, not the 3.3pf listed. I assumed the 2.7 was what they could get instead of the 3.3. Something is really wrong there, but the parts seem to be the correct values, the toroids have the correct turns, etc. I checked the voltage at the RF output detector and its ok. I looked into all the trouble shooting steps in the manual, made sure all the correct parts are in the correct places, the toroids have the correct turns, etc. Nothing gets hot, or even warm, despite the 5 minute key downs at full power. Looking at things on the spec an, after the power knob is up past 1/2 to 3/4 the harmonics go way up, but I might be picking signal up before the filters. One other thing I noticed, the RF watt meter built into the rig reads correct on 80 and 40, but does not reflect the lower power output on the higher bands, its still pegged. I looked at the signal on the spec an, probing the driver input and output power levels, and I don't think the drive falls off, I did not probe the output of the power amp as it would risk the spec an (1 watt max input). I don't need lots of power out, but dislike when something does not work up to spec. The receiver seems to work very well, although I have not run the spectrogram on the filters yet. Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
