[Elecraft] PRE/ATT intermittent fault
Hi folks, Occasionally I find the PRE/ATT fails to work. Sometimes the PREamp works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes the ATTinuator is louder than normal mode. I should have a replacement relay coming with my KPA upgrade - but I ask could it be something else? This is only a problem on rare occasions, but when it happens it is annoying. PS I've retouched the solder to rule out a dodgy connection to the relay. Dave VK2NA SN 3222 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Inductor size in KX1
I am building a KX1 and I am installing the inductors. L9 according to the instructions is suppose to be a micro size inductor. Instead the one included in my kit is a mini size. It is the right value. Any body know of any reason I should not use it. Why was it changed? Accident or intentional? My manual is a Jan 2007 edition. Thanks for any help, 73 de KB3DRW Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Inductor size in KX1
Hi Don, Had the same concern. No fear, I checked with Elecraft and Lisa informed me that was the correct inductor as they can not get the mini style any longer. I carefully bent the leads on mine to allow it to fit and still be low profile, works fine business! Good luck with the KX1, finished that, went on to the K1 and am now working on the K2. I just don't know what I am going to do when I run out of Elecraft kits! 73 Bruce W1UJR www.w1ujr.net On Mar 21, 2007, at 6:35 AM, Curron HILL wrote: I am building a KX1 and I am installing the inductors. L9 according to the instructions is suppose to be a micro size inductor. Instead the one included in my kit is a mini size. It is the right value. Any body know of any reason I should not use it. Why was it changed? Accident or intentional? My manual is a Jan 2007 edition. Thanks for any help, 73 de KB3DRW Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
Tom, I hooked up the dummy load and the 0-20 watt meter. 3.5 MHz 12.5 watts out, 2.7 amps 7 MHz 14 watts out, 4.3 amps 10 MHz 10 watts out, 2.4 amps 14 MHz 8 watts out,2.3 amps 18 MHz 9 watts out 1.8 amps 21 MHz 9 watts out,1.8 amps 24 MHz 6 watts out,1.5 amps 28 MHz 5 watts out,1.8 amps Were these values obtained with POWER set to a 'requested' 15.0 watts? Power knob all the way up. 13.8 volts per my DMM. Measured where? At the output of the P/S? Or at the back of the K2? At diode D10, the big protection diode on the side of the board. I have fat wires running to the 35 amp supply. When tuning C21 in the 30 meter bandpass, the output power would take off and go to 20 watts till I turned the power down then back up, then it acted normal. This is normal function WHEN YOU ARE TUNING UP THE RIG. When this happens, don't turn the POWER control back, just exit from TUNE mode and return to TUNE mode, then continue your alignment tweaking. Repeat the EXIT / TUNE sequence as often as necessary during your alignment. This allows the ALC to again take over the (at least) start you out at the desired power level... Once you get the rig aligned this increasing of power won't occur. I was using the key to transmit, not the tune button, is there a difference (besides the sidetone)? I checked the voltage at the RF output detector and its ok. Checked it with what? And what value were you looking for? DMM, just that it read the correct range, and went up with more power output. Its in the 3 to 4 volt range. Looking at things on the spec an, after the power knob is up past 1/2 to 3/4 the harmonics go way up, but I might be picking signal up before the filters. Spec an connected to the ANT jack? No, just picking up the signal while probing T1 and T2, I was trying to see if the drive level falls off with the power. Past 1/2 to 3/4 power, some harmonics are higher than the fundamental frequency, but below that all looks normal, harmonics 30 or 40 DB down or more. I know this is not really a valid test. On what bands... all? Most if not all. One other thing I noticed, the RF watt meter built into the rig reads correct on 80 and 40, but does not reflect the lower power output on the higher bands, it's still pegged. This tends to imply a Hi-Z condition at the ANT jack? OR that you have a LO-Z condition on 80/40. Probably the former. This occurs what a known-good dummy load connected at the ANT jack? I have and tried 2, a bird kilowatt, and the heath cantenna, and checked the swr on both, its low. I also tried two coax cables between the rig and the watt meter, which also agrees when I hook up the antenna and tune it for a low swr, the power outputs on the heath antenna tuner agree with the other watt meter. I don't need lots of power out, but dislike when something does not work up to spec. Agreed... the K2 should put out 12W-15W on all bands, though it will probably be closer to the 12W level on 12M and 10M. 73, Tom HammondN0SS Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX-1 Paddle
Any ideas on keeping the paddle screw tight? Mine seems to work loose easily, Locktite or similar would work but I want to remove it. The paddle on the KX-1 works loose because the thumbscrew strikes the edge of the circuit board before the paddle body is pulled up tight against the transceiver...There are 2 ways to fix it: (1) grind or file the end of the screw a mite, shortening it so that it does not strike the board, or, (2) make up a heavy paper or felt gasket and glue it to the paddle body where it comes up against the KX-1 case...This will move the paddle body outward a bit, keeping the screw from striking the circuit board...I prefer the gasket because grinding the screw might damage the threads making the screw hard to start...Beveling the end of the screw after cutting it might help... Jerry, wa2dkg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
I am not certain what you mean by the phrase the RF watt meter built into the rig reads correct on 80 and 40, but does not reflect the lower power output on the higher bands, its still pegged. What do you mean by pegged? The watt meter in the rig indicates 10 plus watts out even though the power out is 5 watts at full power. The RF sense circuit does reflect the lower power, with say 2 point something volts out of the RF pickup instead of the 4 plus volts when the rig puts out 12 watts. Below about 2 volts the RF sense voltage falls off like it should and the watt meter on the front panel starts going down. Is the internal RF meter indicating a high RF voltage? If so, you should believe that the RF voltage is really high and something is wrong with your test setup. The detector used in the basic K2 is a simple diode detector and does accurately reflect the RF voltage, and the microprocessor calculates that value to watts with the assumption that the load is 50 ohms resistive. The voltage reads something like 4 point something volts on 80 and 40 at 12 to 14 watts out, and as I go up in bands and the power falls off, the output voltage drops to something like 2 volts (from memory). I tried an experiment by loading this voltage down with a 10k to ground at the DMM leads and did not see any change except on the watt meter reading on the rig, which went down a bit. I do not suspect a problem with the RF sense circuit. Is your load at the time of these measurements a good 50 ohm resistive dummy load? Yes. If you do have a good 50 ohm dummy load on the K2, then I would strongly suggest that you check your connecting coax link before doing anything else. I tried 2 cables, both are likely 75 ohm as I don't have any rg8x to bnc cables, but the cables are short, like 2 feet long. I will try some rg8x into bnc to 259 adaptors just to be sure. What kind of power meter are you using? How has its accuracy been verified? 2 different ones, and yes, they are in the ballpark. We need to know exactly what your setup is before we can provide informed answers to your questions. How are you measuring the current draw? Is this the indication on the K2 or are you using some other measuring device? Only by the K2 readout. I suppose its just a rough reading. All in all, what I can say at the moment is that the base K2 will control its power output according to the RF voltage indicated at the internal diode detector. That detector is not a wattmeter and needs a good 50 ohm resistive load in order for the K2 to control the power output. This does not seem to work past 80 and 40 meters, it does seem to be close on 80 and 40 meters, set the rig for 2 watts out and I get close to 2 watts out and the bar graph power meter indicates 2 watts out. Above 40 meters, the power out is low, the rf sense voltage is lower, but the power is lower then the bar graph indicates. As far as adjusting C21 - adjust any of the bandpass filter elements at a power of 2 watts or lower. Attempting to adjust them at higher power levels can lead to incorrect alignment due to several other factors. I tried it both ways, at 2 watts and full power, and at as low a power I could read on the watt meter, does the same thing, but I think its just some sort of resonance... How are you determining that the harmonic content goes way up? That is unusual and indicates that you have a problem with soldering or incorrect components somewhere. While I was probing T1, T2, and T3. Its not a valid test of the output of the rig, but under say half power, the signals look clean and normal, as you turn the power up, the harmonics go WAY up past the fundamental frequency. The reason I noticed this is because my O scope was doing a poor job at measuring the signal levels at the various transformer ins and outs. I don't know if this is valid at all, as even at the 2 watt level, power is down on the bands above 40 meters. The usual cause of high current draw coupled with low power output is the Low Pass Filters and/or the T4 circuitry. Do you have T4 properly wound? I think so. It looks like figure 6-30 on page69 of the book. 2 turns of green wire, 3 turns of white wire, and the two bare wire links, all pulled tight to the board. 73, Don W3FPR Thanks, Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 Paddle
If the problem is that the screw end is contacting the board, there is yet another way to correct it - put a #6 washer permanently on the thumbscrew before screwing it into the paddle body. I use a light spring lockwasher on mine. I would not suggest using an internal tooth lockwasher because it will tear up the body of the paddle. The washer reduces the effective length of the exposed threads and the lockwasher helps keep it tight. 73, Don W3FPR Jeremiah McCarthy wrote: Any ideas on keeping the paddle screw tight? Mine seems to work loose easily, Locktite or similar would work but I want to remove it. The paddle on the KX-1 works loose because the thumbscrew strikes the edge of the circuit board before the paddle body is pulled up tight against the transceiver...There are 2 ways to fix it: (1) grind or file the end of the screw a mite, shortening it so that it does not strike the board, or, (2) make up a heavy paper or felt gasket and glue it to the paddle body where it comes up against the KX-1 case...This will move the paddle body outward a bit, keeping the screw from striking the circuit board...I prefer the gasket because grinding the screw might damage the threads making the screw hard to start...Beveling the end of the screw after cutting it might help... Jerry, wa2dkg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: FW: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
Brett, All that sounds like you have a significant amount of reactance connected to the K2s antenna jack. If you have an antenna analyzer, remove the coax from the K2 and check the entire load that your dummy load, wattmeter and coax combination is presenting to the K2. Since you have a 'scope there - put on a 10X probe and measure the RF voltage directly at the BNC antenna connector on the K2 while feeding your load. Read the peak to peak voltage and calculate the power directly from the peak to peak voltage as V^2/400 and you should find it agrees with the internal indicated power - if it does not, there is a problem with the internal detector. If it does agree, you have a problem with the setup that you have connected to the K2. Again, the K2 will control power according to the RF voltage it measures with the RF Detector. If you have the amount of RF voltage that calculates to the requested power output, then the K2 is controlling the power output as designed. Yes, the basic K2 is very sensitive to loads that are reactive or not exactly 50 ohms due to the simple diode detector used. That changes when the KAT2 or KPA100 or KAT100 is installed because those units include a real wattmeter which reports power rather than RF voltage to the microprocessor. On the 'harmonic' situation - yes, what you observe is true if you are probing with a spectrum analyzer inside the K2 circuits. The Low Pass Filter will reduce the harmonics significantly before they reach the output jack. To properly use a Spectrum Analyzer to measure internal stages, the transmitter circuit must be opened, transformed to 50 ohms and then fed to the spectrum analyzer. A spectrum analyzer has a 50 ohm input impedance and cannot be properly used for in-situ measurements like a high impedance oscilloscope can be used. 73, Don W3FPR Brett gazdzinski wrote: I am not certain what you mean by the phrase the RF watt meter built into the rig reads correct on 80 and 40, but does not reflect the lower power output on the higher bands, its still pegged. What do you mean by pegged? The watt meter in the rig indicates 10 plus watts out even though the power out is 5 watts at full power. The RF sense circuit does reflect the lower power, with say 2 point something volts out of the RF pickup instead of the 4 plus volts when the rig puts out 12 watts. Below about 2 volts the RF sense voltage falls off like it should and the watt meter on the front panel starts going down. Is the internal RF meter indicating a high RF voltage? If so, you should believe that the RF voltage is really high and something is wrong with your test setup. The detector used in the basic K2 is a simple diode detector and does accurately reflect the RF voltage, and the microprocessor calculates that value to watts with the assumption that the load is 50 ohms resistive. The voltage reads something like 4 point something volts on 80 and 40 at 12 to 14 watts out, and as I go up in bands and the power falls off, the output voltage drops to something like 2 volts (from memory). I tried an experiment by loading this voltage down with a 10k to ground at the DMM leads and did not see any change except on the watt meter reading on the rig, which went down a bit. I do not suspect a problem with the RF sense circuit. Is your load at the time of these measurements a good 50 ohm resistive dummy load? Yes. If you do have a good 50 ohm dummy load on the K2, then I would strongly suggest that you check your connecting coax link before doing anything else. I tried 2 cables, both are likely 75 ohm as I don't have any rg8x to bnc cables, but the cables are short, like 2 feet long. I will try some rg8x into bnc to 259 adaptors just to be sure. What kind of power meter are you using? How has its accuracy been verified? 2 different ones, and yes, they are in the ballpark. We need to know exactly what your setup is before we can provide informed answers to your questions. How are you measuring the current draw? Is this the indication on the K2 or are you using some other measuring device? Only by the K2 readout. I suppose its just a rough reading. All in all, what I can say at the moment is that the base K2 will control its power output according to the RF voltage indicated at the internal diode detector. That detector is not a wattmeter and needs a good 50 ohm resistive load in order for the K2 to control the power output. This does not seem to work past 80 and 40 meters, it does seem to be close on 80 and 40 meters, set the rig for 2 watts out and I get close to 2 watts out and the bar graph power meter indicates 2 watts out. Above 40 meters, the power out is low, the rf sense voltage is lower, but the power is lower then the bar graph indicates. As far as adjusting C21 - adjust any of the bandpass filter elements at a power of 2 watts or lower. Attempting to adjust them at higher power
Re: [Elecraft] Inductor size in KX1
If you go to the Elecraft Web Site and click on Builder Resources, the top left item in Builder Alerts addresses this subject. 73, Ken K3IU At 06:35 AM 3/21/2007, Curron HILL wrote: I am building a KX1 and I am installing the inductors. L9 according to the instructions is suppose to be a micro size inductor. Instead the one included in my kit is a mini size. It is the right value. Any body know of any reason I should not use it. Why was it changed? Accident or intentional? My manual is a Jan 2007 edition. Thanks for any help, 73 de KB3DRW Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 paddle fix?
I don't have this problem with my KX1, but if I ever develop it, I suspect that the first thing I'll try is a nylon or fiber washer under the thumbscrew. This is a reasonable attempt at a non-marking lockwasher... and the next thing is to try an extra thin flat washer (made from shim stock) plus a conventional lockwasher. The flat washer will protect the aluminum. 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Paddle Key set-up
Bugs did, indeed work with the dots being made with one's thumb..but, they did, indeed, also work the 'other way around'- at a small price!! I have here an ARRL Handbook in which the Vibroplex ad statesEvery Vibroplex key has 3/16 contacts and is available for left-hand operation. $2.50 extra. I read somewhere that the original bug was designed with using the thumb for dots forefinger for dashes because the forefinger has more mobility than the thumb. I'm a lefthander, but, when I was a marine R/O decided to buy my first bug back in 1956, when my ship was in Capetown, the store had only right-handed models, I bought one (an ex-US Army signal corps. model 510) have used it left-handed ever since. 73 de Mike, zl1mh. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: FW: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
At lunch I did some more tests. I made a dummy load using 4 200 ohm 2 watt resistors, measured the resistance at 50 ohms, and plugged that right into the watt meter. The other end of the wattmeter plugged into the K2 antenna jack using adaptors. I did the tx setup per the book, and now have at least 10 watts out on all bands, but it does roll off on the higher bands. 10 meters might be below 10 watts, I don't remember. 80 and 40 meters do about 13 or 14 watts. What the 'tune' button seems to do is measure the rf out per a set power (2 watts), display it, and when out of the tune mode, corrects the power so its right. You can really see it work on 80 and 40 meters, set the power knob to 2 watts, hi the tune button and the meters read 3 watts. Exit the tune mode with the power still set at 2 watts and hit the cw key and I get 2 watts out on the bar graph and my meter. This works a treat on 80, 40, and 30 meters, the power output matches the knob set point and the bar graph very closely AFTER you do the tune setup, at least up past 10 or 12 watts. Above about 30 meters, the bar graph and the tune position start showing more power then the 3 watt meters I have do, I have some diwa little thing, a Kenwood average/pep meter, and the heathkit antenna tuner meter. All read the same. The higher you go above 30 meters, the more the rig says its doing more power out then my meters do. The RF sense circuit is after all the stages, its at the antenna output basically.. I checked all the components in the rf output sense circuit and they are the correct values and measure correctly. I did not mess with the diode (D9 1N5711), nor can I verify its number without unsoldering it. Maybe I should order a few 1N5711 diodes and see if there is any difference in how they act. This sure is a fun rig to trouble shoot and play with, although I am still not over fond of computers in HF gear... Brett N2DTS Hi Brett: I also tried two coax cables between the rig and the watt meter, which also agrees when I hook up the antenna and tune it for a low swr, the power outputs on the heath antenna tuner agree with the other watt meter. How long are the coaxes you're using between the wattmeter and the dummy load? And are there any antenna switches in-line or anything else? Also, what length coax between K2 and wattmeter? 73, Tom ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Inductor size in KX1
You should have gotten this sheet in your kit: http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Builder%20Alert%20Installing%20Small%20Chokes%2 0Rev%20B.pdf It describes the inductor issue and how to install the slightly larger ones. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 4:17 AM To: Curron HILL Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inductor size in KX1 Hi Don, Had the same concern. No fear, I checked with Elecraft and Lisa informed me that was the correct inductor as they can not get the mini style any longer. I carefully bent the leads on mine to allow it to fit and still be low profile, works fine business! Good luck with the KX1, finished that, went on to the K1 and am now working on the K2. I just don't know what I am going to do when I run out of Elecraft kits! 73 Bruce W1UJR www.w1ujr.net On Mar 21, 2007, at 6:35 AM, Curron HILL wrote: I am building a KX1 and I am installing the inductors. L9 according to the instructions is suppose to be a micro size inductor. Instead the one included in my kit is a mini size. It is the right value. Any body know of any reason I should not use it. Why was it changed? Accident or intentional? My manual is a Jan 2007 edition. Thanks for any help, 73 de KB3DRW Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: FW: FW: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
Brett, In TUNE, the power control loop is not as tight in the firmware portion of the loop as compared with normal keying. The reason for that is to allow those using a manual tuner with their K2 to be able to adjust it without the power jumping quickly all over the place. I am glad to hear that you had good results with the direct connections - that seems to verify that there is reactance (or other cause of a non-50 ohm purely resistive) condition somewhere in your setup - whether it is the coax, the external wattmeter or the dummy load itself we may never know, but you can check each one easily at the frequencies of interest with an antenna analyzer. You may be able to borrow an AA to make those measurements if you do not have one. You may find some frequency dependency between 1N5711 diodes (I have occasionally noticed that), but I do not consider it a problem because the power indication and control point are not more than a few tenths of a watt off at any point if all is normal. Considering that most wattmeter specs are in the range of 5% to 20% OF THE FULL SCALE READING, the diode detector in the K2 is actually more accurate than most if the load is 50 ohms resistive at the frequency of operation (measuring with an ohmmeter is not suficient, resistance at DC is not likely to be equal to the resistance at RF). On your wattmeter accuracy, consider that even 5% of the 20 watt scale can result in an error of 1 watt at any power level - and even the Bird wattmeter is only that good immediately after calibration - you must expect such errors in your measuring equipment (check the spec sheet and verify the measurement by independent means if you really want accuracy). The Diode Detector is actually more accurate than most wattmeters, but it must be used with a known good non-reactive load. 73, Don W3FPR Brett gazdzinski wrote: At lunch I did some more tests. I made a dummy load using 4 200 ohm 2 watt resistors, measured the resistance at 50 ohms, and plugged that right into the watt meter. The other end of the wattmeter plugged into the K2 antenna jack using adaptors. I did the tx setup per the book, and now have at least 10 watts out on all bands, but it does roll off on the higher bands. 10 meters might be below 10 watts, I don't remember. 80 and 40 meters do about 13 or 14 watts. What the 'tune' button seems to do is measure the rf out per a set power (2 watts), display it, and when out of the tune mode, corrects the power so its right. You can really see it work on 80 and 40 meters, set the power knob to 2 watts, hi the tune button and the meters read 3 watts. Exit the tune mode with the power still set at 2 watts and hit the cw key and I get 2 watts out on the bar graph and my meter. This works a treat on 80, 40, and 30 meters, the power output matches the knob set point and the bar graph very closely AFTER you do the tune setup, at least up past 10 or 12 watts. Above about 30 meters, the bar graph and the tune position start showing more power then the 3 watt meters I have do, I have some diwa little thing, a Kenwood average/pep meter, and the heathkit antenna tuner meter. All read the same. The higher you go above 30 meters, the more the rig says its doing more power out then my meters do. The RF sense circuit is after all the stages, its at the antenna output basically.. I checked all the components in the rf output sense circuit and they are the correct values and measure correctly. I did not mess with the diode (D9 1N5711), nor can I verify its number without unsoldering it. Maybe I should order a few 1N5711 diodes and see if there is any difference in how they act. This sure is a fun rig to trouble shoot and play with, although I am still not over fond of computers in HF gear... Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: FW: FW: [Elecraft] Kit arrived...
Don, Ok, but why always on the low side and not the hi side of error? 2 to 3 watts out of 10 is 20% which is not that good, and why only at the higher frequencies? On 10 meters, it might say 12 watts out but only give 8 actual watts I want to know why it rolls off at the higher frequencies, that is, the built in meter reads higher than actual power. I suppose I should also test the rig at 14 volts, just to see what the power out is. The manual states that all the measurements were done at 14 volts and I have been doing them at 13.8 key up. My supply is regulated, but not that regulated.. And I wonder what sets the efficiency, output power VS current and voltage in. Would that mostly be T3? Eventually I might want to tweak that! You can likely tell I like playing with radios more than actually operating them, that is why the shack is almost all home brew Well, maybe tonight I will do the spectrogram stuff! Brett N2DTS You may find some frequency dependency between 1N5711 diodes (I have occasionally noticed that), but I do not consider it a problem because the power indication and control point are not more than a few tenths of a watt off at any point if all is normal. Considering that most wattmeter specs are in the range of 5% to 20% OF THE FULL SCALE READING, the diode detector in the K2 is actually more accurate than most if the load is 50 ohms resistive at the frequency of operation (measuring with an ohmmeter is not suficient, resistance at DC is not likely to be equal to the resistance at RF). On your wattmeter accuracy, consider that even 5% of the 20 watt scale can result in an error of 1 watt at any power level - and even the Bird wattmeter is only that good immediately after calibration - you must expect such errors in your measuring equipment (check the spec sheet and verify the measurement by independent means if you really want accuracy). The Diode Detector is actually more accurate than most wattmeters, but it must be used with a known good non-reactive load. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: FW: FW: [Elecraft] power control (was kit arrived)
Can anyone describe how the power output control actually works? I traced the circuit to the bank 1 part, I have no idea what bank 1 is. The cpu seems to have some control over the power output, looking at the output power sense circuit to display output power on the bar graph and as a digital readout when in the tune mode. You adjust the power control, but what is that actually doing, changing the drive level to the PA by way of Q10, or something else? Brett N2DTS Brett, In TUNE, the power control loop is not as tight in the firmware portion of the loop as compared with normal keying. The reason for that is to allow those using a manual tuner with their K2 to be able to adjust it without the power jumping quickly all over the place. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: FW: FW: FW: [Elecraft] power control (was kit arrived)
Brett, The power output is totally controlled by the microprocessor. The power knob (think of it as 'power requested') setting is known to the microprocessor (full stop of thought here). When the transmitter is tuned or keyed, the output is measured by the RF detector (or wattmeter if either the KPA100, KAT2 or KAT100 are installed). That power output level is scaled and sent back to the microprocessor on the VRFDET line. The microprocesor then compares the actual power output with the requested power and changes the VPWR from control board U8 as a response. The VPWR signal is fed through the keying waveshape and ALC ciruit (Control board U10A and Q8) which produces the VALC voltage which is then fed to the drain of RF Board Q24 to control the amount of BFO injection into the Transmit Mixer. The /BANK1 signals on the front panel are the scanning lines that tell the microprocessor what the state of the buttons and controls are - there is no direct control done on the front panel (except that the RF Gain and AF Gain controls are fully analog and not microprocessor controlled). 73, Don W3FPR Brett gazdzinski wrote: Can anyone describe how the power output control actually works? I traced the circuit to the bank 1 part, I have no idea what bank 1 is. The cpu seems to have some control over the power output, looking at the output power sense circuit to display output power on the bar graph and as a digital readout when in the tune mode. You adjust the power control, but what is that actually doing, changing the drive level to the PA by way of Q10, or something else? Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Kit arrived
Hi, I don't suppose Bretts problem could be as simple as having 1 turn too many on the LP filter toroids? I fixed a K2 for a chap who had done that, and the higher band outputs especially, were rotten. It is a common problem for new kit builders to add an extra turn when winding toroids by not realizing that as soon as the wire passes through the hole, that is turn #1 .. Cheers.Ron ZL1TW -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.16/729 - Release Date: 3/21/2007 7:52 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 Completed
I ordered the KPA100 kit on Thursday March 8 and it arrived 2 days later on Saturday. I worked on it a couple of hours each night during last week, and put it in an EC2 enclosure this Sunday afternoon. The parts were all there (thanks Marina!), the assembly went very smoothly, and all tests were successful. I remain a most satisfied Elecraft customer! 73, David, NM5U (K2 SN 3014 with KAT2, KNB2, KBT2, KSB2, KDSP2, KIO2, K160RX, plus the K6XX CW tuning indicator and the EA3BLQ internal digital interface.) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Cable X-Perts RG-8 vs Davis Bury Flex
I've read that Davis Bury Flex is very good (low loss) coax. I have Cable X-Perts RG-8 (50 feet of it) as my feedline right now. Is it worth my time and $ making a change to Davis Bury Flex or something similar? Jeff K6ATT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Cable X-Perts RG-8 vs Davis Bury Flex
J S wrote: I've read that Davis Bury Flex is very good (low loss) coax. I have Cable X-Perts RG-8 (50 feet of it) as my feedline right now. Is it worth my time and $ making a change to Davis Bury Flex or something similar? Jeff: You might ask yourself how much the loss differential would be between the present cable and the proposed cable, for a length of 50 feet. You can then decide whether the dB per dollar result makes sense, or not. Evaluate the loss of the two cables at the highest frequency at which you normally operate. My suspicion is that you will find the difference is a fraction of a dB. Considering that even measuring power to an accuracy of +/- 1 dB can be difficult without a decent wattmeter, you might use that in evaluating the dB per dollar computation. This assumes, of course, that your present cable is not defective. Jack K8ZOA www.cliftonlaboratories.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Cable X-Perts RG-8 vs Davis Bury Flex
Jeff, My own 'rule of thumb' is that 2 dB less loss in your coax is worth it, 1 dB is not worth the money or trouble. You will have to figure the relative loss for your highest band of operation, your cable length, and your SWR on the line. All of those factors should be considered. In other words, the worst RG-8 listed in the ARRL Antenna Book has a loss of 1.9 dB per 100 feet at 100 MHz - so your 50 foot length will have only 0.85 dB loss at 100 MHz (less at lower frequencies). The loss will not go below 0.0 dB in any case, so by my 1 dB 'rule', it is not worth replacing. OTOH, if you are running that RG-8 at a 5:1 SWR, The loss will increase by 0.7 dB which gives you a total loss of 1.5 dB at 100 MHz - still not enough to be gained to make it worthwhile for me, especailly if used on HF. YMMV. Note: I have a 150 foot run of coax before I reach the antenna field or go up a tower or mast, so it only takes a small reduction in loss at that length to make me think about a change, but for a 50 foot run, I would not bother. 73, Don W3FPR J S wrote: I've read that Davis Bury Flex is very good (low loss) coax. I have Cable X-Perts RG-8 (50 feet of it) as my feedline right now. Is it worth my time and $ making a change to Davis Bury Flex or something similar? Jeff K6ATT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 1.5 tilt stand?
I saw a note on this list about a smaller tilt stand. I've got a recent K2 with the standard bail on it. Does this 1.5 tilt stand replace the standard bail and is lower? My bail measures neither 3 or 1.5 at the bail and something less than 3 at the front of the K2 so I'm confused. 73 jim ab3cv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 1.5 tilt stand?
Jim, How about half height tilt stand rather than getting hung up on specific dimensions. It will lower the K2 to about 1/2 the height of the standard tilt bail. I have not measured it, so I can't give you the precise dimensions. 73, Don W3FPR Jim Miller wrote: I saw a note on this list about a smaller tilt stand. I've got a recent K2 with the standard bail on it. Does this 1.5 tilt stand replace the standard bail and is lower? My bail measures neither 3 or 1.5 at the bail and something less than 3 at the front of the K2 so I'm confused. 73 jim ab3cv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Cable X-Perts RG-8 vs Davis Bury Flex
Hi Jeff: I've read that Davis Bury Flex is very good (low loss) coax. I have Cable X-Perts RG-8 (50 feet of it) as my feedline right now. Is it worth my time and $ making a change to Davis Bury Flex or something similar? Personal opinion follows... take it for what little it may be worth... The Davis RF Bury-Flex is just about equivalent to Belden 9913 low-loss coax, BUT it's better in the respect that it can be directly BURIED for long periods of time with little degradation in the polyethylene outer covering. I use Bury-Flex exclusively between my Shack and the top of my tower, a total of about 220' for each run. This having been said, and for only a 50-foot run, used on HF, I'd by lying if I said that you'd notice ANY substantive benefit from switching from what you now have to Bury-Flex. Good luck, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 1.5 tilt stand?
good enuf! thanks, Don! another thing for my next Elecraft order! 73 jim ab3cv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 1.5 tilt stand?
Jim, I was saying that the standard one is too high for me. Then I was told that there is a 1.5 stand available on the Elecraft Web site. Just go the their ordering page and look at the K2 accesories. I already ordered one. 73, Tom KG3V Quoting Jim Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I saw a note on this list about a smaller tilt stand. I've got a recent K2 with the standard bail on it. Does this 1.5 tilt stand replace the standard bail and is lower? My bail measures neither 3 or 1.5 at the bail and something less than 3 at the front of the K2 so I'm confused. 73 jim ab3cv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 6050 is alive and well
Hi all, Since I posted its arrival I thought I'd follow it up with this announcement that another K2 is alive and well. I had no issues with the build except those of my own doing... i.e. not interpreting the instructions correctly. We just process things a bit differently and I had no difficulty bailing myself out. After I familiarize myself with the K2's operation I'll start working on the option kits I have waiting. Thanks to Ron, AC7AC, for the emailed Builder's Alert Installing Trimmer Capacitors.My wife guessed it's orientation rightly but I didn't.BTW... I still do not see it on the Builder's Alert web page. This is a lot of fun... this is a great kit. Thank you Elecraft for making it possible. Ed -AD7GR- K2 6050 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] XG2 mini-module
I am interested in purchasing the XG2 test osc/swr cal. My question...Can the XG2 be utlized on non Elecraft transceivers, or is it only useful on K1, or K2 etc...? I would like to try it out on my Ten-Tec QRP rig and SST. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
re:[Elecraft] Cable X-Perts RG-8 vs Davis Bury Flex
Jeff, For a 50 ft. run, if your existing coax is in good shape and fairly new, I wouldn't bother replacing it now, at least for HF work. When it does need replacing, the Davis Buryflex is mighty good stuff. I recently replaced a 10 year old 50 ft. section of RG-213 with Buryflex, as some of it must go through a PVC pipe across my driveway. I like the tough outer jacket of the Buryflex. I once tried LMR400, but a squirrel or possum chewed through the coax and ruined it. How can you tell if your coax is getting lossy and needs replacing? You can measure the loss of your coax at any frequency with an MFJ-259B antenna analyzer. 73, Chuck NI0C ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 filter performance - Spectogram
Hello, all... Much thanks for previous assistance. Running spectogram on #5759 yields the following indications: - stop band for CW filters around 30-40 dB - using a 440 side tone, all CW filter bandwidths show a series of higher frequency humps [less attenuation] with the following characteristics: main pass band: 440 cps 1st hump:1345 cps, -12 dB [reference main pass band] 2nd hump:2250 cps, -25 dB 3rd hump: 3150 cps, -30 dB The humps are less noticeable with wider main pass bands and more noticeable as the pass band is narrowed. They look like a series of diminishing wave peaks at regular intervals. I could have gone a few more that the three noted above, but they get washed out eventually. Any Comments? Thanks. ...robert Robert G. Strickland PhD ABPH - KE2WY [EMAIL PROTECTED] Syracuse, New York USA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] XG2 mini-module
It's useful on any rig covering 80, 40 or 20 meters, Dennis. Its 50 uV output is what many manufacturers use as a reference input level for an S-9 signal, although there's no real consistency between various rigs. That 50 uV number came about simply because receiver manufacturers needed *something* to use in their final test and alignment on the assembly line as a go, no-go parameter, and 50 uV was chosen many, many years ago for that purpose. The sensitivity measurements are useful on any rig. The instructions have a few funny comments in them as they try to relate to any rig. For example, there are specific instructions to set the attenuator and preamp, but not all receivers have such settings. Whatever is normally used (if anything) is right. Also on the K2 CW-N is NOT narrow, but simply one sideband. The best way to evaluate the maximum useful sensitivity (or more correctly S/N +N ratio) is at the narrowest selectivity setting. The instructions correctly recommend using 500 Hz bandwidth (if specific bandwidths are available) since that's what the various manufacturers tend to use. Calculating that number in addition to your narrowest selectivity provides something you can compare to many published specs for other equipment. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I am interested in purchasing the XG2 test osc/swr cal. My question...Can the XG2 be utlized on non Elecraft transceivers, or is it only useful on K1, or K2 etc...? I would like to try it out on my Ten-Tec QRP rig and SST. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: FW: FW: [Elecraft]
I ran the spectrogram software during the filter alignment tonight, very interesting stuff. I don't think it improved my filters any that I can tell. I tried different center frequencies, and just cant decide what I like on receive. I went from 600 to 1100 Hz and cant decide what works best with my hearing loss! Brett N2DTS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 qso's with a IC-703Plus?
This retiree, while he awaits some future K3 kit - picked up a used IC-703Plus QRP rig. Has any K2 qrp'ers - worked hams with IC-703's. Do they perform OK, and did they seem reliable for CW or and SSB? Sorry for the bandwidth - but when K3 hits the counter, I'll be in line. Fred N3CSY great bunch of creative hams on this list! Need Mail bonding? Go to the Yahoo! Mail QA for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396546091 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 filter performance - Spectogram
Robert, Please send me some information about how you have things set up. What you are observing is common if the soundcard input is being overloaded. Are you using the line input to the soundcard? Or are you using the mic input? What takeoff point are you using from the K2? Is the slider on the right side of the Spectrogram screen all the way at the top (this looks like a Windows scroll bar, but is not)? You did not say what the filter widths were when you made these observations. The filter is normally well behaved at bandwidths more narrow that 1500 Hz or even better at 1200 Hz. The filter design is optimized for widths in the 400 to 600 Hz range - wide bandwidths are expected to be quite 'ragged' and will indicate several peaks. It would likely be good for us to use direct mail (bypassing the reflector) until we can get a handle on what is happening here. All I can say at this point is that your observations are not the norm. We can report the solution back to the reflector when we discover the cause. 73, Don W3FPR Robert G. Strickland wrote: Hello, all... Much thanks for previous assistance. Running spectogram on #5759 yields the following indications: - stop band for CW filters around 30-40 dB - using a 440 side tone, all CW filter bandwidths show a series of higher frequency humps [less attenuation] with the following characteristics: main pass band: 440 cps 1st hump:1345 cps, -12 dB [reference main pass band] 2nd hump:2250 cps, -25 dB 3rd hump: 3150 cps, -30 dB The humps are less noticeable with wider main pass bands and more noticeable as the pass band is narrowed. They look like a series of diminishing wave peaks at regular intervals. I could have gone a few more that the three noted above, but they get washed out eventually. Any Comments? Thanks. ...robert Robert G. Strickland PhD ABPH - KE2WY [EMAIL PROTECTED] Syracuse, New York USA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
