Re: [Elecraft] 97.315

2007-04-06 Thread Phil Kane
On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 09:53:11 -0400, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>FCC does not directly maintain a database with all their rules,
>nor do they publish them. Instead, that is handled by the
>Government Publishing Office, who only update it annually.
>Changes between annual updates are published in the Federal
>Register and on the FCC website.

>So if you search the FCC site for Part 97, you will find a link
>to the GPO site where you can download the *old* Part 97 from
>before the October 2006 changes. Then you have to search the
>Federal Register to get the changes since the last update, and
>splice them in.

  Even more fun fact:  if one needs up-to-date rules and case
  digests and texts (as my firm does), one ponies up and
  subscribes to the Pike and Fischer Communications Regulation
  Service.  It's only $3500 per year (we have a multi-site
  multi-user subscription so it's more) - cheap at any price!
--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane

   VP - Regulatory Counsel & Engineering Manager
   C.S.I. Telecommunication Consulting Engineers
   San Francisco, CA - Beaverton, OR



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Re: [Elecraft] any update for the NEWS?

2007-04-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Doug and all,

I read your Flex-Radio links with interest - BUT - I think I will keep 
my K2s for the time being.


Software Defined Radio is a thing of interest to me, but I really like 
my knobs to 'twiddle' and somehow knob-twiddling through a mouse and 
computer display does not do much for me.  Yes, I have tried computer 
control of my K2s using both Ham Radio Deluxe and the N4PY software, but 
that leaves a lot to be desired for me.  Computer control of the 
transceiver is just not my style of operating, and with the Flex-Radio 
gear it is required, not an option.


Price-wise, my pockets are not deep enough to even try the Flex-Radio 
5000 - at almost $2500 for the basic radio, it is well above the price 
tag that I can consider.  Add to that the price of a high-end computer 
(currently, my fastest computer is a 1.6 GHz processor) and you end up 
with something in the $3500 bracket and up.  Yes, the Flex-Radio does 
have one version that has an integrated computer, but the price tag on 
that is just under $4500 - I can buy 2 K2/100s for that price and 
operate SO2R with computer control using HRD for less cash outlay.  Add 
to that fact that I would have trouble operating away from the permanent 
home station - with the K2, I can pick it up and operate from most 
anywhere with just a 12 volt battery, either 100 watts 'QRO' or less 
than 15 watts 'QRP' for longer battery life.


The Flex-Radio 5000 promises to reduce the raw DDS spurs to a better 
level than those present in the present 1000 version, but just how much 
reduction remains to be seen when it is tested by ARRL labs.


My vision of the SDR of the future is this:
A radio that can be configured by connection to a computer and then used 
as a standalone radio without the assistance of a computer.  It should 
have low current consumption for portable operation, and has a full 
compliment of knobs to allow standalone operation (no computer 
required), and yes this should be in a package that can be easily 
carried into the field.  The Flex-Radio 5000C is just not there yet!


I too am anxiously waiting to see what the folks at Elecraft will have 
to offer for Dayton 2007.  If Flex-Radio 5000C is the 'best of breed' at 
the moment, I will keep my K2s, thank you!


73,
Don W3FPR


DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:

Hey...Dayton is around the corner and the Elecraft NEWS is now almost
a year old.  Any updates?

Here is one from today - the Flex 5000:
http://www.flex-radio.com/
http://kb.flex-radio.com/article.aspx?id=10374

Yeah...I really love my wife, but I can still look!  LOL

de Doug KR2Q
happy with the K2, but still looking around

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Re: [Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?

2007-04-06 Thread Bernie Gardner
I had a combined work/vacation trip in February that prompted me to take my 
K2/100  along.  I wasn't going to be in a position to put up a dipole, even a 
Buddipole, so I bought a Buddistick.  I hoped it would allow me to make a few 
contacts without adding unduly to my luggage, and it pretty much met my 
expectations.  I didn't have time to operate extensively, but as an example 
of the possibilities I had a ~half hour ssb contact from Santa Fe, NM to 
Hawaii and later in the trip a brief contact from Hawaii to South Africa.  As 
has been mentioned by others, any shortned antenna is a compromise, but as 
long as you recognize that, some interesting contacts can be made.  The 
Buddistick requires some fiddling with the counterpoise to get a good match.  
I just used the internal K2/100 swr indication to tune the antenna.  

The quality of construction and convenience of the packaging of the Buddistick 
are great.  To answer your primary question, I would concur with earlier 
comments that you can get most of the 20 meter cw portion without retuning, 
and comparable bandwidth on other bands, though maybe a bit less on 40.   I 
just mounted the Buddistick on the Balcony of the Condos I was staying in, so 
retuning wasn't too much of a problem.  The Buddipole in dipole mode might be 
more difficult, though possibly with better performance?

Bernie
W1AZ

On Friday 06 April 2007 11:42, Fred (FL) wrote:
> I've been considering the Buddi antenna, for a while
> now.  It seems to be built well.
>
> One thing I've not been able to establish - is how
> much HF bandwidth does the antenna exhibit - once one
> sets the clips on those 2 coils, and gets resonance?
> I just wonder if a constant readjusting is necessary
> with this antenna, when we move up and down the
> HF bands?   20M CW  then 20M SSB ...
>
> In other words - if antenna was all set up outside,
> would a HF user be required to continually adjust
> either the clips or the whips - when an operator
> goes from SSB to CW portions of the band, etc.?
>
> I tried some years back, to make a "dipole" out of
> Hustler mobile elements, with some adjustable whips
> - but never was able to get it to resonate very
> reliably.   Those were in my no-tuner IC-730 days.
>
> Those are my questions regarding the Buddi line
> of dipoles and verticals, with coils and clips.
>
> Fred
> N3CSY, FL
>
> Very seriously considering one.
>
> Fred, N3CSY
> FL
>
>
>
>
> ___
>_ The fish are biting.
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Headset HC-5

2007-04-06 Thread Jack Brindle
OK, just for clarification and to set the record straight, my K2  
(#2905) had NOT had R14 or any other component changed in the SSB  
audio path. I use my Heil headset (HC-4) plugged directly into the  
KRC2, no preamp, no mods. 438 QSOs in last November's phone Sweepstakes.


It seems to work for me...

Note the important part of my original post. Mine is a K2/100, so the  
RF section can make up for any low audio. SSB at 5 watts needs all  
the help it can get, so a preamp is probably a good idea. That's not   
a knock against QRP - as my friend, QRP GURU N6WG will attest, I am a  
fan. I just don't want to be frustrated in a contest with that power  
level, especially when everyone around me is running a gallon or so...


On Apr 6, 2007, at 8:33 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Jack,

You are quite correct, I know you and some others have been  
successful with increasing the KSB2 R14 resistor value, but that  
will change the loading on the MH2/MD2 mics (which can change the  
audio output characteristics).  Since Dave wants to use the MH2/MD2  
directly on the K2, in this case I believe the external preamp/ 
adapter is the best approach.  Using the mic 5 volt line has its  
limitations, but with a short cable between the preamp box and the  
K2 I have not had problems powering the preamp - just don't load it  
down or use a long cable (6 inches to 1 foot is enough).


Of course how to implement it is an individual choice, I can only  
speak for the implementation that I see is easiest for all the  
factors in consideration, but the final choice is up to the  
individual builder. There are many workable choices available.


73,
Don W3FPR

Jack Brindle wrote:
Sigh. Don and I have agreed to disagree on this point. I have used  
my K2/100 quite successfully for several years with a Heil Pro  
headset. Mine has the HC-4 element.
I would try it _without_ the preamp  just to see how it works for  
you before deciding you need the extra box. You may end up needing  
one, or things might work just fine.
I would also wire the resistor in the microphone connector for the  
MH2. Small area to play in, but it gets it out of the way. The  
down side is the need to pull power from the K2 out to the  
connector. I have learned that the mic power pin is a prime  
intrusion point for RFI.

On Apr 6, 2007, at 5:03 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dave,

Since your plan is to use both the MH2 and the Heil headset with  
the HC-5 element, I strongly recommend that you jumper the K2 mic  
configuration header for the MH2 - all pins jumpered straight  
across (use the little configuration jumpers for computer  
headers) and solder a 5600 ohm resistor across pins 1 and 6 of  
the mic jack.


You might also consider connecting the headphone audio to pin 5  
of the mic jack - leave the jumper off the header pin 5 and  
connect the audio to the header pin marked "5" with no connection  
to the pin marked "FUNC"


Then for the Heil headset, build a preamp/adapter in a small  
external enclosure - the headset plugs into the adapter.  You  
will need a preamp to successfully use the Heil HC5 element.


I have a schematic (it is a bit cluttered, but usable) for a  
preamp that was designed just for that application -  
unfortunately I cannot attach it to the reflector post, so I will  
send it to you separately.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Wilburn wrote:
I have a Heil headset that I purchased about 4 years ago.  I'm  
not sure if it is the "pro" or not.  As memory serves, at the  
time, the next step up had a dual element with a switch.  The  
headset has an HC-5 element. I have an adapter to this to  
connect to my recently sold, since finishing my base K2, Kenwood  
TS-570D(G).  I have also purchased an MH2 microphone.
The original plan was to sell a different radio, (IC-718) and  
keep the TS-570 and thus the headset.  The plan then was to use  
the MH2 for the K2.  I will still be using the MH2 primarily for  
the K2.  But I want to be able to use the headset on occasion as  
needed.
I understand the instructions for wiring up the MH2 on the K2.   
How will this impact the use of the headset?

This email suggests it only needs straight across jumpers.
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-01/ 
msg00598.html
If that is the case, and I do have the Kenwood adapter already,  
then if I just put the straight jumpers in, I should be fine.
If I want to use the MH2, then I need to either put the resistor  
in the microphone somehow (not something I am looking to tackle  
with my large hands) or make an adapter cable for the MH2 that  
has the resistor in it.

Am I barking up the correct tree hear, or chasing a feral goose?

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Re: [Elecraft] N4PY

2007-04-06 Thread eKotz

 Wow, $55 initial, and $30/year? Ouch!

Ham Radio Deluxe seems to run well and it's free for the download.   Web 
page http://hrd.ham-radio.ch/


Ed - AD7GR
K2 #6050

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[Elecraft] FS: K2/100

2007-04-06 Thread Tony Lyon

Selling a K2 (Serial #4295) with the following modules:

- 100 watt amp (KPA100)
- KAF2
- SSB2
- KNB2
- MH2 Hand Microphone
- Blue Denim Cover purchased from Stan LaPointe (K7NUU)

I am asking $1100  (+ shipping costs)  for it. Will only ship to a U.S. 
address.

If you are interested, let me know and I can also also send some pictures.

73,
Tony Lyon (KJ5XF)





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Re: [Elecraft] 40 M interference

2007-04-06 Thread Fred Jensen

Ralph Tyrrell wrote:

7040 KHz is one place for me to find new states or rag
chews. Have noticed racket there sometimes. Tuned
across the band and found this racket about every
10.66 KHz across all I can tune of 40 M (6998 - 7084)
with my K1. 7040.6 KHz is the center of one signal.
Seems to be about 1 KHz wide. Not there all the time.
I do not hear it on 30 M.
Does anyone know where this comes from and what it
might be for and how often it is on? 
I always turn of my computer when using the radio to

keep local noise down.


Hi Ty,

Not sure but you may be hearing the [or one of the] OTH radars, 
variously attributed to the Chinese, Australians, N. Korea [and us, of 
course -- maybe also the correct choice :-) ]


"Racket" is the best description, and it/they do have some of the 
characteristics you describe.  If you're old enough to remember LORAN A 
on what is now 160 and you lived near either of the coastlines then, 
you'll remember it.  Various peaks as you tuned across and around it.


I've heard it recently on 40m, a couple of days ago while trying to work 
N8S on 7005 up 5, but it moved up the band after a little while.  There 
are frequent comments on the DX Spotting net about it too.


Inasmuch as OTH tend to be national security-related, no one ever fesses 
up to them.


Regards,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] 40 M interference

2007-04-06 Thread ron

Ralph Tyrrell wrote:

7040 KHz is one place for me to find new states or rag
chews. Have noticed racket there sometimes. Tuned
across the band and found this racket about every
10.66 KHz across all I can tune of 40 M (6998 - 7084)
with my K1. 7040.6 KHz is the center of one signal.
Seems to be about 1 KHz wide. Not there all the time.
I do not hear it on 30 M.
Does anyone know where this comes from and what it
might be for and how often it is on? 
I always turn of my computer when using the radio to

keep local noise down.

  



what you are hearing my friend, could be Rtty Stations. Their calling 
frequency is at 7040, and has been for many years.

Then I could be wrong ...

Ron, wb1hga
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[Elecraft] any update for the NEWS?

2007-04-06 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL

Hey...Dayton is around the corner and the Elecraft NEWS is now almost
a year old.  Any updates?

Here is one from today - the Flex 5000:
http://www.flex-radio.com/
http://kb.flex-radio.com/article.aspx?id=10374

Yeah...I really love my wife, but I can still look!  LOL

de Doug KR2Q
happy with the K2, but still looking around
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[Elecraft] 40 M interference

2007-04-06 Thread Ralph Tyrrell

7040 KHz is one place for me to find new states or rag
chews. Have noticed racket there sometimes. Tuned
across the band and found this racket about every
10.66 KHz across all I can tune of 40 M (6998 - 7084)
with my K1. 7040.6 KHz is the center of one signal.
Seems to be about 1 KHz wide. Not there all the time.
I do not hear it on 30 M.
Does anyone know where this comes from and what it
might be for and how often it is on? 
I always turn of my computer when using the radio to
keep local noise down.

73, Ty, W1TF, Statham GA, 49 miles NE by E of Atlanta
K1 #1423, BL2 


 

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Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 mic suggestion..

2007-04-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Sergio,

Choices abound.

Any of the Heil mics designed for the Icom will work FB with the K2 - 
just wire the configuration header for Icom (including the resistor - 
use 5600 ohms because the K2 supplies only 5 volts as opposed to 8 volts 
on the Icoms).


Another good choice is the Ten-Tec electret mics (701 Handheld, 705 or 
706 desk mics) - they are priced right and sound great, but you need to 
change the 4 pin mic plug for an 8 pin plug.


If you want a good mic and can make up your own footswitch or other 
means of PTT, then look at the computer microphones.  They can sound 
very good on the receiving end and cost only a few dollars.


I am advocating the electret type mics because I know they work well 
with the K2.  High output dynamic mics work well too if you happen to 
have one, but some have low output and are best used with a preamp.  If 
I recall correctly, a mic output of -40 dBm is the preferred level while 
-50 to -60 dBm is the output range for many dynamic mics.


73,
Don W3FPR

sergio t. ruiz wrote:
i figure while i have the front panel board unattached, i should 
probably start thinking about which mic to get, since i have never owned 
one.. and i need to get some parts for the rigblaster anyway.. so i 
should decide..


here's what i am looking for in a mic..

i am not dead set on fidelity.. so it doesn't have to be a super duper 
one..


i am just gonna use it to:

check into an occasional net..

check in with special events stations..

play around with an occasional contest..

that's it..

any suggestions would be appreciated..

thanks!



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[Elecraft] k2 mic suggestion..

2007-04-06 Thread sergio t. ruiz
i figure while i have the front panel board unattached, i should 
probably start thinking about which mic to get, since i have never owned 
one.. and i need to get some parts for the rigblaster anyway.. so i 
should decide..


here's what i am looking for in a mic..

i am not dead set on fidelity.. so it doesn't have to be a super duper one..

i am just gonna use it to:

check into an occasional net..

check in with special events stations..

play around with an occasional contest..

that's it..

any suggestions would be appreciated..

thanks!


--
___
peace,
sergio
photographer, journalist, visionary
www.village-buzz.com
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[Elecraft] k2 progress!

2007-04-06 Thread sergio t. ruiz


okay, i have not been working very diligently on my k2.. i have had tons 
to do at work, and any time i have been in my workshop, i have been 
playing with the k1..


but i have just made some headway..

i have been using the no rework kit (which i TOTALLY suggest to anyone 
building a k2..) so i took some extra time getting the manual all set up...


i have finished the controller board, and the front panel, and got it 
all mounted and ready to rock...


all resistance checks passed with flying colors..

my comments so far on the building:

when i first thought about building a k2, i thought that i would be 
shipped a bag of millions of toroids and 200 different types of wire to 
wind a bunch of exotic eyeball busters..


not the case.. without counting.. it looks like cake..

since i built the k1 first, i kinda learned the 'elecraft way' on that 
one first.. and made a few mistakes by not following the 'elecraft 
way..' when it came to building the k2, i just relaxed, and used the 
force, and there were no problems..


let me explain briefly what i mean by 'the elecraft way'..

the manuals are so easy to follow, and so complete, that you are always 
tempted to second guess them (mostly if you have built other electronics 
kits in the past). to think ahead of the manual, and goof something up.. 
to worry about weird part numbers, and not relax.. once you realize that 
a complete parts inventory (with pictures and alternate part numbers!), 
a complete schematic, building photos, and TONS of other goodies are in 
the manual, you should have no problems..


all that being said.. the k2 is fun to build so far.. and a breeze...

i am hoping to get to the next testing phase after i go to the movies 
tonight..


elecraft should make hifi gear, too.. that would rock..

anyway..

72 de kb8qpt..

--
___
peace,
sergio
photographer, journalist, visionary
www.village-buzz.com
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[Elecraft] K2 6050 Built!

2007-04-06 Thread eKotz
K2 #6050 with KDSP, KNB2, KSB2, K160RX AND KPA100 options is now up and 
running.   I took my time in the build and it was great fun, however, as 
always, over far too soon.


I had wanted to use Rework Eliminators boards (www.unpcbs.com) and 
although I came close to not installing them I did decide to go ahead 
with the build including the RE boards as part of the process.   I am 
very glad that I did.   I found the RE manual's instructions very easy 
to follow in conjunction with the K2 manuals.   When I had a question 
regarding a RE component value they were quick to respond and help me... 
even though it turned out to be a problem with my measuring instruments. 
 They have gone far out of their way to help.   I especially thanked 
them "... for the definite sense of the fellowship of ham radio that I 
learned to love back in the 70's when I was first licensed."   Nice 
fellows to work with.


I also had a couple of difficulties with the K2 kit and needed to 
receive a replacement Tilt Bail and a length of speaker wire and they 
had the needed items in the mail to me immediately.   Absolutely great 
service.


My thanks to the friendly folks at Elecraft for a great kit and 
service... to Ron, AC7AC, for the Builder's Alert on Installing Trimmer 
Capacitors, to Gary, AB7MY, for the KPA100 Errata E-2 and to Scott, 
AH6KL, for sending the need parts out so quickly.   With the exception 
of the tilt bail, speaker wire and the two files previously mentioned, I 
found that the difficulties I had with the kits were of my own 
misinterpretation of the instructions and very easily and quickly corrected.


With the addition of the Reflector and the various K2 supporting 
websites one may not go wrong in choosing to build an Elecraft kit.


I believe that the marriage of Elecraft K2 and Rework Eliminator boards 
is an excellent one.   The RE boards have saved me time and eliminated 
unnecessary rework during the k2 assembly.   What a great feeling to 
just unplug the RE board, plug in the Elecraft Option and have it work 
correctly the first time, every time... that really made it worthwhile. 
 The only RE board still plugged in is the one for the K60XV option 
which I have not bought as yet.In using the RE boards the K2 
definitely is "Option Ready".


Now to get this tired 62 year old mind wrapped around all those menu 
selections.  .I am sure I will have questions sometime.


Great job everyone!   Excellent products!   I would do it again... and 
again.


73,
Ed  - AD7GR
K2 #6050

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Re: [Elecraft] Mic's

2007-04-06 Thread Tom Zeltwanger
Bill,

I have the same mic (but have not used it yet). I asked the same question about 
a week ago. There were several responses. Sounds like it has been used 
successfully. I'm sure you will get some other replies. 

I have hooked mine up, and just started testing it, but not properly setup yet. 
What I have heard is that it is best not to use the in-base preamp, and make 
sure it is on the LOW impedance setting.

73,

Tom KG3V


Quoting "William M. Spaulding, SR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

> Folks,
> 
> I have a Kenwood MC60 I intend to use with my K2 when it gets to that point. 
> Have any others used that mic in the K2 and with what success?
> 
> Thanks,
> Bill
> NA7Y
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 messages

2007-04-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

That is the normal message when you tap the AGC button - Fast AGC or Slo 
AGC.


They have nothing to do directly with the KSB2, although you may have 
disturbed something that was loose or has an intermittent solder connection.


If you are getting those messages without any obvious action, look on 
the Control Board and Front Panel Board for any sign of a bad solder 
connection or something not soldered.


73,
Don W3FPR

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello
Recently I have started getting two different messages when changing
bands on my k2 # 5846.
One is "fase", and the other is "slo". I have never gotten these
before, until after I did a little adjusting on my SSB adapter.
I can't find anything about them in the manual.
Anyone have any idea what I did to cause this?
Thanks
Scott N5SM

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[Elecraft] K2 messages

2007-04-06 Thread wsm
Hello
Recently I have started getting two different messages when changing
bands on my k2 # 5846.
One is "fase", and the other is "slo". I have never gotten these
before, until after I did a little adjusting on my SSB adapter.
I can't find anything about them in the manual.
Anyone have any idea what I did to cause this?
Thanks
Scott N5SM

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[Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 Fine Carrier Adjustment]

2007-04-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

I noticed this did not go to the list - I intended it to!  73, Don W3FPR

 Original Message 
Steve,

Yes, just put a short length of wire on the other receiver and adjust
the spacing, length of antenna and other things so you get about an S-9
or just a bit higher signal on the receiver with a CW signal - then you
can switch to SSB and find the carrier.  Adjust the pot until you have
the smallest amount of carrier.

If you have a 'scope with a 10X probe that will display 50 to 100
millivolts per division, just connect that 'scope across the dummy load
and you can observe the carrier as an RF voltage.  It is usually easier
than setting up a separate receiver.

You do not have to connect a microphone (better if you don't, there will
be no mic pickup to confuse things), just plug in the paddles and close
the dot side, that is the same as pressing PTT.

Suggestions - use 40 meters, and adjust LSB first, then check USB and if
necessary touch up the adjustment but go back and forth between
sidebands until you have both about the same - there may have to be a
small compromise between sidebands.

73,
Don W3FPR

Steve Watkins wrote:

Thanks to Jerry, WA2DKG, I got past the "Deaf K2" by plugging the speaker into 
the P5 on the RF board vs. the Control Board.  I'm not sure how or where I missed that it 
should be plugged in there, but it works, so things weren't shorted after all on the KSB2 
board.

Now I'm at the "Fine Carrier Balance Adjustment" section (Page 19 in the KSB2 Manual), 
and am not sure how to "hear" the K2's transmitted signal on a external receiver.

Since the K2 is connected to a dummy load, am I to run a short piece of wire 
from the external receiver and locate it near the dummy load to hear this?

Thanks, Steve
NE7RD


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[Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?

2007-04-06 Thread Tom Hall
Sorry, forgot to mention that I do use one elevated radial unwound from a
kite winder to a pre-marked length with the end usually thrown over a bush.

 

Tom, ak2b  

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[Elecraft] Mic's

2007-04-06 Thread William M. Spaulding, SR
Folks,

I have a Kenwood MC60 I intend to use with my K2 when it gets to that point.  
Have any others used that mic in the K2 and with what success?

Thanks,
Bill
NA7Y
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[Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?

2007-04-06 Thread Tom Hall
I have a BuddiPole that is used mostly as a vertical. I tried the dipole
setup and the antenna fell over and bent one of the telescoping whips. I'm
sure with a longer mast and a guying system you can get excellent results.
Being one that looks for the simple route, I decided I would stick with the
vertical version since it is a lot easier to setup and take down. I also
bought some three section shock-corded whips which are indestructible
compared to the telescoping whips. The band-width will vary by band. On 20
meters I can cover pretty much the cw portion of the band using one arm, one
coil, another arm and finally a shock-corded whip on top of it all. I don't
use forty all that much so I can't tell you exactly what you can expect. It
will depend on how much antenna length you can get in the air. There are
longer versions of the shock-corded whips that will help. 
I usually pack the supplied bag with the above parts, my KX-1 and head for
DX hill in Riverside Park, Manhattan. The arrangement works out quit well. I
am always surprised at how well I can get out. Many times I've had QSO's
with Western and Eastern Europe without effort.
I usually find a fence post to bungi cord the mast to - and have at it. The
setup takes just a few minutes.
The Buddipole is versatile enough that it can adjust to a variety of
circumstances and it is a very well built antenna. I suggest you go to
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Buddipole/ where you will have no problem
getting specific answers to your questions. Many times, like on this list,
you will get answers from the man himself :-).

Tom, ak2b

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[Elecraft] KSB2 Fine Carrier Adjustment

2007-04-06 Thread Steve Watkins
Thanks to Jerry, WA2DKG, I got past the "Deaf K2" by plugging the speaker into 
the P5 on the RF board vs. the Control Board.  I'm not sure how or where I 
missed that it should be plugged in there, but it works, so things weren't 
shorted after all on the KSB2 board.

Now I'm at the "Fine Carrier Balance Adjustment" section (Page 19 in the KSB2 
Manual), and am not sure how to "hear" the K2's transmitted signal on a 
external receiver.

Since the K2 is connected to a dummy load, am I to run a short piece of wire 
from the external receiver and locate it near the dummy load to hear this?

Thanks, Steve
NE7RD
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Headset HC-5

2007-04-06 Thread David Wilburn
Thanks for all the great input from everyone.  I think I will see if I 
can swing the Elecraft/Heil pro-set, install the resistor in the rig, 
and just switch between the two as needed.


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jack,

You are quite correct, I know you and some others have been successful 
with increasing the KSB2 R14 resistor value, but that will change the 
loading on the MH2/MD2 mics (which can change the audio output 
characteristics).  Since Dave wants to use the MH2/MD2 directly on the 
K2, in this case I believe the external preamp/adapter is the best 
approach.  Using the mic 5 volt line has its limitations, but with a 
short cable between the preamp box and the K2 I have not had problems 
powering the preamp - just don't load it down or use a long cable (6 
inches to 1 foot is enough).


Of course how to implement it is an individual choice, I can only speak 
for the implementation that I see is easiest for all the factors in 
consideration, but the final choice is up to the individual builder. 
There are many workable choices available.


73,
Don W3FPR

Jack Brindle wrote:
Sigh. Don and I have agreed to disagree on this point. I have used my 
K2/100 quite successfully for several years with a Heil Pro headset. 
Mine has the HC-4 element.


I would try it _without_ the preamp  just to see how it works for you 
before deciding you need the extra box. You may end up needing one, or 
things might work just fine.


I would also wire the resistor in the microphone connector for the 
MH2. Small area to play in, but it gets it out of the way. The down 
side is the need to pull power from the K2 out to the connector. I 
have learned that the mic power pin is a prime intrusion point for RFI.


On Apr 6, 2007, at 5:03 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Dave,

Since your plan is to use both the MH2 and the Heil headset with the 
HC-5 element, I strongly recommend that you jumper the K2 mic 
configuration header for the MH2 - all pins jumpered straight across 
(use the little configuration jumpers for computer headers) and 
solder a 5600 ohm resistor across pins 1 and 6 of the mic jack.


You might also consider connecting the headphone audio to pin 5 of 
the mic jack - leave the jumper off the header pin 5 and connect the 
audio to the header pin marked "5" with no connection to the pin 
marked "FUNC"


Then for the Heil headset, build a preamp/adapter in a small external 
enclosure - the headset plugs into the adapter.  You will need a 
preamp to successfully use the Heil HC5 element.


I have a schematic (it is a bit cluttered, but usable) for a preamp 
that was designed just for that application - unfortunately I cannot 
attach it to the reflector post, so I will send it to you separately.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Wilburn wrote:
I have a Heil headset that I purchased about 4 years ago.  I'm not 
sure if it is the "pro" or not.  As memory serves, at the time, the 
next step up had a dual element with a switch.  The headset has an 
HC-5 element. I have an adapter to this to connect to my recently 
sold, since finishing my base K2, Kenwood TS-570D(G).  I have also 
purchased an MH2 microphone.
The original plan was to sell a different radio, (IC-718) and keep 
the TS-570 and thus the headset.  The plan then was to use the MH2 
for the K2.  I will still be using the MH2 primarily for the K2.  
But I want to be able to use the headset on occasion as needed.
I understand the instructions for wiring up the MH2 on the K2.  How 
will this impact the use of the headset?

This email suggests it only needs straight across jumpers.
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-01/msg00598.html 

If that is the case, and I do have the Kenwood adapter already, then 
if I just put the straight jumpers in, I should be fine.
If I want to use the MH2, then I need to either put the resistor in 
the microphone somehow (not something I am looking to tackle with my 
large hands) or make an adapter cable for the MH2 that has the 
resistor in it.

Am I barking up the correct tree hear, or chasing a feral goose?

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Re: [Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?

2007-04-06 Thread Fred Jensen

Bob Tellefsen wrote:

Hi Fred
Any antenna heavily loaded with coils will show a narrow bandwidth.
In effect, the coils and the capacitance of the antenna elements
across them form a tuned circuit.  The higher the Q of the tuned
circuit (meaning the lower the coil losses) the narrower the
bandwidth, but the higher the efficiency.  If you find a loaded
antenna with a large bandwidth, it is by definition much less
efficient due to the inherent losses.


My BP is quite narrow-band, and the BW decreases as one goes to lower 
bands [more of the equivalent circuit of the overall antenna resides in 
the lumped, hi-Q inductance I guess].  It'll cover the nominal CW 
portion of the higher bands, 30m --> 10m if I adjust it for the middle 
of the sub-band.  On 40, if I adjust it with the MFJ 259 at 7025, it'll 
be under 1.5:1 from 7000 to maybe 7040 or so, but the VSWR rises rapidly 
above that.  I don't have the 80m coils, but I would suspect it would be 
VERY narrow that low in freq.  I'm not sure just how useful an antenna 
as small as a BP would be on 80m at QRP levels.



There really is no free lunch.


The B&W "all band folded dipole" exhibits acceptable VSWR 3-30 MHz, 
which sounds like free food.  It also includes a resistor which forms 
the major source of the feed impedance [and that eats a chunk of your 
power] so the "lunch" turns out not to be quite free after all.  In 
fact, it's common for dummy loads to exhibit a phenomenal VSWR bandwidth.


Sometimes you can fudge a bit by tuning such an antenna to
the center of a band, and using an autotuner like the Elecraft
T1 at the feedpoint.


Note, Bob says "at the feedpoint," which would be up at the VersaTee. 
Using an autotuner in the radio [e.g. KAT2 or KAT100] gives 1.0:1 
matches but the losses go up in the coax.


I do make a lot of Q's on my BP with the K2 and KX1.  Biggest thing I've 
found is to get the antenna up in the air and away from other objects. 
The threads on the BP mast fit painter's poles which is what I use. 
This July will be my first FOTBB with the BP.  I'm anxious to see if it 
beats the 27' wire in the tree.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7
- www.cqp.org
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[Elecraft] HF AMP KIT

2007-04-06 Thread W7is
I've been using the barefoot K2 to drive an Alpha 89 amp to a full 800W  
actual
output power.   The amp uses pin diode switching and is  virtually silent 
except 
for a small bit of fan noise.  
 
But when trying to drive a Yaesu Quadra amp I can only get around 250W 
output. The Quadra amp is a very loud, noisy  amp with relay switching. 
Although its been  very reliable with no failures, at least for  me.   
 
If Elecraft ever actually gets an amp to market,  it would be worth  taking a 
look at.  Especially if the amp uses pin diode switching and they are  able 
to 
control the fan noise to be something reasonable.   But just like  the 
Quadra amp,  it would no doubt require a higher drive level than a  barefoot 
K2 
if you want a decent output level.
 
Hopefully Elecraft will come through with an amp kit this year.   
As its been a long time in the works.   
 
Frank W7is  
 
 
 
 



** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?

2007-04-06 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Fred
Any antenna heavily loaded with coils will show a narrow bandwidth.
In effect, the coils and the capacitance of the antenna elements
across them form a tuned circuit.  The higher the Q of the tuned
circuit (meaning the lower the coil losses) the narrower the
bandwidth, but the higher the efficiency.  If you find a loaded
antenna with a large bandwidth, it is by definition much less
efficient due to the inherent losses.

There really is no free lunch.

Sometimes you can fudge a bit by tuning such an antenna to
the center of a band, and using an autotuner like the Elecraft
T1 at the feedpoint.  Then, once you get away from the resonant
frequency of the antenna, it acts as if it were a simple nonresonant
centerfed piece of wire and the tuner will give you as good a
match as it can.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG


- Original Message -
From: "Fred (FL)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2007 8:42 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?


> I've been considering the Buddi antenna, for a while
> now.  It seems to be built well.
>
> One thing I've not been able to establish - is how
> much HF bandwidth does the antenna exhibit - once one
> sets the clips on those 2 coils, and gets resonance?
> I just wonder if a constant readjusting is necessary
> with this antenna, when we move up and down the
> HF bands?   20M CW  then 20M SSB ...
>
> In other words - if antenna was all set up outside,
> would a HF user be required to continually adjust
> either the clips or the whips - when an operator
> goes from SSB to CW portions of the band, etc.?
>
> I tried some years back, to make a "dipole" out of
> Hustler mobile elements, with some adjustable whips
> - but never was able to get it to resonate very
> reliably.   Those were in my no-tuner IC-730 days.
>
> Those are my questions regarding the Buddi line
> of dipoles and verticals, with coils and clips.
>
> Fred
> N3CSY, FL
>
> Very seriously considering one.
>
> Fred, N3CSY
> FL
>
>
>
>
>


> The fish are biting.
> Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
> http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php
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[Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?

2007-04-06 Thread Fred (FL)
I've been considering the Buddi antenna, for a while
now.  It seems to be built well.

One thing I've not been able to establish - is how
much HF bandwidth does the antenna exhibit - once one
sets the clips on those 2 coils, and gets resonance? 
I just wonder if a constant readjusting is necessary
with this antenna, when we move up and down the
HF bands?   20M CW  then 20M SSB ...

In other words - if antenna was all set up outside,
would a HF user be required to continually adjust
either the clips or the whips - when an operator 
goes from SSB to CW portions of the band, etc.?

I tried some years back, to make a "dipole" out of
Hustler mobile elements, with some adjustable whips
- but never was able to get it to resonate very
reliably.   Those were in my no-tuner IC-730 days.

Those are my questions regarding the Buddi line
of dipoles and verticals, with coils and clips.

Fred
N3CSY, FL

Very seriously considering one.

Fred, N3CSY 
FL



 

The fish are biting. 
Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Headset HC-5

2007-04-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jack,

You are quite correct, I know you and some others have been successful 
with increasing the KSB2 R14 resistor value, but that will change the 
loading on the MH2/MD2 mics (which can change the audio output 
characteristics).  Since Dave wants to use the MH2/MD2 directly on the 
K2, in this case I believe the external preamp/adapter is the best 
approach.  Using the mic 5 volt line has its limitations, but with a 
short cable between the preamp box and the K2 I have not had problems 
powering the preamp - just don't load it down or use a long cable (6 
inches to 1 foot is enough).


Of course how to implement it is an individual choice, I can only speak 
for the implementation that I see is easiest for all the factors in 
consideration, but the final choice is up to the individual builder. 
There are many workable choices available.


73,
Don W3FPR

Jack Brindle wrote:
Sigh. Don and I have agreed to disagree on this point. I have used my 
K2/100 quite successfully for several years with a Heil Pro headset. 
Mine has the HC-4 element.


I would try it _without_ the preamp  just to see how it works for you 
before deciding you need the extra box. You may end up needing one, or 
things might work just fine.


I would also wire the resistor in the microphone connector for the MH2. 
Small area to play in, but it gets it out of the way. The down side is 
the need to pull power from the K2 out to the connector. I have learned 
that the mic power pin is a prime intrusion point for RFI.


On Apr 6, 2007, at 5:03 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Dave,

Since your plan is to use both the MH2 and the Heil headset with the 
HC-5 element, I strongly recommend that you jumper the K2 mic 
configuration header for the MH2 - all pins jumpered straight across 
(use the little configuration jumpers for computer headers) and solder 
a 5600 ohm resistor across pins 1 and 6 of the mic jack.


You might also consider connecting the headphone audio to pin 5 of the 
mic jack - leave the jumper off the header pin 5 and connect the audio 
to the header pin marked "5" with no connection to the pin marked "FUNC"


Then for the Heil headset, build a preamp/adapter in a small external 
enclosure - the headset plugs into the adapter.  You will need a 
preamp to successfully use the Heil HC5 element.


I have a schematic (it is a bit cluttered, but usable) for a preamp 
that was designed just for that application - unfortunately I cannot 
attach it to the reflector post, so I will send it to you separately.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Wilburn wrote:
I have a Heil headset that I purchased about 4 years ago.  I'm not 
sure if it is the "pro" or not.  As memory serves, at the time, the 
next step up had a dual element with a switch.  The headset has an 
HC-5 element. I have an adapter to this to connect to my recently 
sold, since finishing my base K2, Kenwood TS-570D(G).  I have also 
purchased an MH2 microphone.
The original plan was to sell a different radio, (IC-718) and keep 
the TS-570 and thus the headset.  The plan then was to use the MH2 
for the K2.  I will still be using the MH2 primarily for the K2.  But 
I want to be able to use the headset on occasion as needed.
I understand the instructions for wiring up the MH2 on the K2.  How 
will this impact the use of the headset?

This email suggests it only needs straight across jumpers.
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-01/msg00598.html 

If that is the case, and I do have the Kenwood adapter already, then 
if I just put the straight jumpers in, I should be fine.
If I want to use the MH2, then I need to either put the resistor in 
the microphone somehow (not something I am looking to tackle with my 
large hands) or make an adapter cable for the MH2 that has the 
resistor in it.

Am I barking up the correct tree hear, or chasing a feral goose?

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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Headset HC-5

2007-04-06 Thread Jack Brindle
Sigh. Don and I have agreed to disagree on this point. I have used my  
K2/100 quite successfully for several years with a Heil Pro headset.  
Mine has the HC-4 element.


I would try it _without_ the preamp  just to see how it works for you  
before deciding you need the extra box. You may end up needing one,  
or things might work just fine.


I would also wire the resistor in the microphone connector for the  
MH2. Small area to play in, but it gets it out of the way. The down  
side is the need to pull power from the K2 out to the connector. I  
have learned that the mic power pin is a prime intrusion point for RFI.


On Apr 6, 2007, at 5:03 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Dave,

Since your plan is to use both the MH2 and the Heil headset with  
the HC-5 element, I strongly recommend that you jumper the K2 mic  
configuration header for the MH2 - all pins jumpered straight  
across (use the little configuration jumpers for computer headers)  
and solder a 5600 ohm resistor across pins 1 and 6 of the mic jack.


You might also consider connecting the headphone audio to pin 5 of  
the mic jack - leave the jumper off the header pin 5 and connect  
the audio to the header pin marked "5" with no connection to the  
pin marked "FUNC"


Then for the Heil headset, build a preamp/adapter in a small  
external enclosure - the headset plugs into the adapter.  You will  
need a preamp to successfully use the Heil HC5 element.


I have a schematic (it is a bit cluttered, but usable) for a preamp  
that was designed just for that application - unfortunately I  
cannot attach it to the reflector post, so I will send it to you  
separately.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Wilburn wrote:
I have a Heil headset that I purchased about 4 years ago.  I'm not  
sure if it is the "pro" or not.  As memory serves, at the time,  
the next step up had a dual element with a switch.  The headset  
has an HC-5 element. I have an adapter to this to connect to my  
recently sold, since finishing my base K2, Kenwood TS-570D(G).  I  
have also purchased an MH2 microphone.
The original plan was to sell a different radio, (IC-718) and keep  
the TS-570 and thus the headset.  The plan then was to use the MH2  
for the K2.  I will still be using the MH2 primarily for the K2.   
But I want to be able to use the headset on occasion as needed.
I understand the instructions for wiring up the MH2 on the K2.   
How will this impact the use of the headset?

This email suggests it only needs straight across jumpers.
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-01/ 
msg00598.html
If that is the case, and I do have the Kenwood adapter already,  
then if I just put the straight jumpers in, I should be fine.
If I want to use the MH2, then I need to either put the resistor  
in the microphone somehow (not something I am looking to tackle  
with my large hands) or make an adapter cable for the MH2 that has  
the resistor in it.

Am I barking up the correct tree hear, or chasing a feral goose?

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- Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
-



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Re: [Elecraft] N4PY

2007-04-06 Thread ron

David Wilburn wrote:

Wow, $55 initial, and $30/year?  Ouch!



No Dave,
read it again.
the yearly rate is by choice ...

and I agree,

Ouch!

Ron, wb1hga
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[Elecraft] Test

2007-04-06 Thread Jimmy Lee
Test.  Hope this works.
Jimmy, AE4DT
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[Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?

2007-04-06 Thread Jimmy Lee
I am seeking opinions about the use and effectiveness of the Buddi antennas.  I 
operate portable with my K2 in parks and etc. and size and weight are not a 
major concern.
Thanks,
Jimmy, AE4DT
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Headset HC-5

2007-04-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

The ProSet-K2 is a Heil design especially for the Elecraft K2 and plugs 
in just like the MH2 or MD2.  It uses an electret mic element which does 
not require a preamp because it has a high output level.


An additional note for all:
Heil makes a wide variety of microphones, and it is necessary to be 
specific about the different types, they have different output levels 
and are not interchangeable.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Wilburn wrote:
Ok, I was trying to stay away from a pre-amp.  What setup does the 
Elecraft pro headset have, and how would it have to be wired in relation 
to the use of the MH2?


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982

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[Elecraft] 97.315

2007-04-06 Thread n2ey
In a message dated 4/6/07 12:34:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:



§ 97.315 Certification of external RF
power amplifiers.



(a) No more than 1 unit of 1 model of
an external RF power amplifier capable
of operation below 144 MHz may be constructed
or modified during any calendar
year by an amateur operator for
use at a station without a grant of certification.



Those are the old rules. They don't apply any more. 97.315 has been 
rewritten.


Back in early October, 2006, FCC revised Part 97 so that 97.315 is now 
this:



From pages 42 and 43 of the Report and Order for 06-140:


[begin quote]

15.  Section  97.315  is  revised  to  read  as  follows:

§  97.315  Certification  of  external  RF  power  amplifiers.

(a)  Any  external  RF  power  amplifier  (see  Section  2.815  of  the 
FCC  Rules)
  manufactured  or  imported  for  use  at  an  amateur  radio  
station  must  be
  certificated  for  use  in  the  amateur  service  in accordance  
with  subpart  J
  of  part  2  of  the  FCC  Rules.  No  amplifier  capable  of  
operation  below
  144  MHz  may  be  constructed  or  modified  by  a  non-amateur  
service

  licensee  without  a  grant  of certification  from  the  FCC.

(b)  The  requirement  of  paragraph  (a)  does  not  apply  if  one  
or  more  of

  the  following  conditions  are  met:

   (1)  The  amplifier  is  constructed  or modified  by  an  
amateur  radio

operator  for  use  at  an  amateur  station.

   (2)  The  amplifier  was  manufactured  before  April  28,  
1978,  and  has
  been  issued  a  marketing  waiver  by  the  FCC,  or  
the  amplifier
  was  purchased  before  April  28,  1978,  by  an  
amateur  radio

 operator  for  use  at  that  operator's  station.

   (3)  The  amplifier  is  sold  to  an  amateur  radio  operator  
or  to  a
  dealer,  the  amplifier  is  purchased  in  used  
condition  by  a
  dealer,  or  the  amplifier  is  sold  to  an  amateur  
radio  operator

 for  use  at  that operator's  station.

(c)  Any  external  RF  power  amplifier  appearing  in  the  
Commission's
  database as  certificated  for  use  in  the  amateur  service  
may  be

 marketed  for  use  in  the  amateur  service.

[end quote]

These changes eliminate the old "one per year" rule, which had been 
around for

decades (since 1978 IIRC).

Complete story at:

http://www.arrl.org/arrlvec/brief/2006/1017.html

Links to the Report and Order:

http://hraunfoss.fcc.gov/edocs_public/attachmatch/FCC-06-149A1.doc
http://hraunfoss.fcc.gov/edocs_public/attachmatch/FCC-06-149A1.pdf
http://hraunfoss.fcc.gov/edocs_public/attachmatch/FCC-06-149A1.txt


Link to complete Part 97 *as amended*:

http://www.arrl.org/FandES/field/regulations/news/part97/



Fun fact:

FCC does not directly maintain a database with all their rules, nor do 
they publish them. Instead, that is handled by the Government 
Publishing Office, who only update it annually. Changes between annual 
updates are published in the Federal Register and on the FCC website.


So if you search the FCC site for Part 97, you will find a link to the 
GPO site where you can download the *old* Part 97 from before the 
October 2006 changes. Then you have to search the Federal Register to 
get the changes since the last update, and splice them in.


Your tax dollars at work!

Or you can go to a website (like ARRL) where that work has been done 
for you.


Just to make it more of a sporting course, the FCC Report and Order 
does not name questions in the question pools that no longer reflect 
the actual rules. That's left to the QPC/VECs to figure out and remove.



73 de Jim, N2EY


AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free 
from AOL at AOL.com.

=0
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Re: [Elecraft] N4PY

2007-04-06 Thread David Wilburn

Wow, $55 initial, and $30/year?  Ouch!

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


walter renner wrote:

Phil,
I have been using  N4PY software with my K2 for some time now, and it works verywell. 
The same versions that work with the Jupiter will work with the K2, just select which radio

you want, and the is no additional fee. You will not have audio or RF gain on 
the GUI, but
everything else works great. Carl also allows several user customized buttons that you can 
program for what ever you want.  I have used Carl's program with my Jupiter using 
the K2 as an second receiver with good results.


Kurt   K0ARO
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Headset HC-5

2007-04-06 Thread David Wilburn
Ok, I was trying to stay away from a pre-amp.  What setup does the 
Elecraft pro headset have, and how would it have to be wired in relation 
to the use of the MH2?


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dave,

Since your plan is to use both the MH2 and the Heil headset with the 
HC-5 element, I strongly recommend that you jumper the K2 mic 
configuration header for the MH2 - all pins jumpered straight across 
(use the little configuration jumpers for computer headers) and solder a 
5600 ohm resistor across pins 1 and 6 of the mic jack.


You might also consider connecting the headphone audio to pin 5 of the 
mic jack - leave the jumper off the header pin 5 and connect the audio 
to the header pin marked "5" with no connection to the pin marked "FUNC"


Then for the Heil headset, build a preamp/adapter in a small external 
enclosure - the headset plugs into the adapter.  You will need a preamp 
to successfully use the Heil HC5 element.


I have a schematic (it is a bit cluttered, but usable) for a preamp that 
was designed just for that application - unfortunately I cannot attach 
it to the reflector post, so I will send it to you separately.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Wilburn wrote:
I have a Heil headset that I purchased about 4 years ago.  I'm not 
sure if it is the "pro" or not.  As memory serves, at the time, the 
next step up had a dual element with a switch.  The headset has an 
HC-5 element. I have an adapter to this to connect to my recently 
sold, since finishing my base K2, Kenwood TS-570D(G).  I have also 
purchased an MH2 microphone.


The original plan was to sell a different radio, (IC-718) and keep the 
TS-570 and thus the headset.  The plan then was to use the MH2 for the 
K2.  I will still be using the MH2 primarily for the K2.  But I want 
to be able to use the headset on occasion as needed.


I understand the instructions for wiring up the MH2 on the K2.  How 
will this impact the use of the headset?


This email suggests it only needs straight across jumpers.
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-01/msg00598.html

If that is the case, and I do have the Kenwood adapter already, then 
if I just put the straight jumpers in, I should be fine.


If I want to use the MH2, then I need to either put the resistor in 
the microphone somehow (not something I am looking to tackle with my 
large hands) or make an adapter cable for the MH2 that has the 
resistor in it.


Am I barking up the correct tree hear, or chasing a feral goose?



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[Elecraft] N4PY

2007-04-06 Thread walter renner
Phil,
I have been using  N4PY software with my K2 for some time now, and it works 
verywell. 
The same versions that work with the Jupiter will work with the K2, just select 
which radio
you want, and the is no additional fee. You will not have audio or RF gain on 
the GUI, but
everything else works great. Carl also allows several user customized buttons 
that you can 
program for what ever you want.  I have used Carl's program with my Jupiter 
using 
the K2 as an second receiver with good results.

Kurt   K0ARO
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Re: [Elecraft] Using K2 with N4PY software

2007-04-06 Thread John Huffman

Phil -

I use the N4PY software with my Pegasus and my K2/100.  The software works really well and 
it's close to the same experience with the K2 as with the Pegasus.  Of course, the K2 
receiver makes a real improvement in performance.


There are some things the N4PY software can't do with the K2, like change volume.  But, 
that's a limitation of the K2 computer instruction set.  There are things you can do with 
the software that you can't do with the K2 alone, like have different filter setting for 
VFO A and B while working SPLIT.


Plus, N4PY software for the Pegasus is the same as for the K2.  Just specify K2 instead pf 
Pegasus in the SETTINGS menu.  There is nothing you need to buy.


73 de K1ESE
John

Phil Zminda wrote:

I recently sold a Ten-Tec Jupiter which I occasionally used with N4PY software. 
Anyone out there using this or any other Using software with the K2? How well 
does it work with the K2? I am considering building the RS-232 board, but want 
to be sure there are good applications for it.

Thanks,

Phil N3ZP
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Re: [Elecraft] Using K2 with N4PY software

2007-04-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Phil,

The N4PY software works just fine with the K2.

The only drawback is in the rare instance that you have the KRC2ACC band 
decoder installed.  The software works fine with the KRC2 band decoder, 
it is only the KRC2ACC audio accessory that does not function properly 
with the N4PY software.


73,
Don W3FPR

Phil Zminda wrote:

I recently sold a Ten-Tec Jupiter which I occasionally used with N4PY software. 
Anyone out there using this or any other Using software with the K2? How well 
does it work with the K2? I am considering building the RS-232 board, but want 
to be sure there are good applications for it.

Thanks,

Phil N3ZP
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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Headset HC-5

2007-04-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

Since your plan is to use both the MH2 and the Heil headset with the 
HC-5 element, I strongly recommend that you jumper the K2 mic 
configuration header for the MH2 - all pins jumpered straight across 
(use the little configuration jumpers for computer headers) and solder a 
5600 ohm resistor across pins 1 and 6 of the mic jack.


You might also consider connecting the headphone audio to pin 5 of the 
mic jack - leave the jumper off the header pin 5 and connect the audio 
to the header pin marked "5" with no connection to the pin marked "FUNC"


Then for the Heil headset, build a preamp/adapter in a small external 
enclosure - the headset plugs into the adapter.  You will need a preamp 
to successfully use the Heil HC5 element.


I have a schematic (it is a bit cluttered, but usable) for a preamp that 
was designed just for that application - unfortunately I cannot attach 
it to the reflector post, so I will send it to you separately.


73,
Don W3FPR

David Wilburn wrote:
I have a Heil headset that I purchased about 4 years ago.  I'm not sure 
if it is the "pro" or not.  As memory serves, at the time, the next step 
up had a dual element with a switch.  The headset has an HC-5 element. I 
have an adapter to this to connect to my recently sold, since finishing 
my base K2, Kenwood TS-570D(G).  I have also purchased an MH2 microphone.


The original plan was to sell a different radio, (IC-718) and keep the 
TS-570 and thus the headset.  The plan then was to use the MH2 for the 
K2.  I will still be using the MH2 primarily for the K2.  But I want to 
be able to use the headset on occasion as needed.


I understand the instructions for wiring up the MH2 on the K2.  How will 
this impact the use of the headset?


This email suggests it only needs straight across jumpers.
http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2003-01/msg00598.html

If that is the case, and I do have the Kenwood adapter already, then if 
I just put the straight jumpers in, I should be fine.


If I want to use the MH2, then I need to either put the resistor in the 
microphone somehow (not something I am looking to tackle with my large 
hands) or make an adapter cable for the MH2 that has the resistor in it.


Am I barking up the correct tree hear, or chasing a feral goose?

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[Elecraft] Using K2 with N4PY software

2007-04-06 Thread Phil Zminda
I recently sold a Ten-Tec Jupiter which I occasionally used with N4PY software. 
Anyone out there using this or any other Using software with the K2? How well 
does it work with the K2? I am considering building the RS-232 board, but want 
to be sure there are good applications for it.

Thanks,

Phil N3ZP
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