[Elecraft] Re: K3 suggestion for future release - Band Skip

2007-07-05 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I believe your asking for something that the Yaesu FT-2000 does - enables
you to choose the bands you do use and skip those you don't (for whatever
reason, no antenna, don't like, not open). I agree might be a useful feature
for some future update (I'm just keen to get my K3 in early Aug).
If Elecraft do add this, I would hope it only skipped bands found via the
UP/DOWN buttons.


On 5/7/07 09:03, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent:

 HOW ABOUT ADDING THIS:
 When using the band up/down button, enable a feature that allows to
 SKIP certain bands.  I am thinking contesting.  For example, to get
 from 10 to 20, using the Band Up/Down would take 4 pushes.  If you
 know that you won't be on 12 and 17 (cuz it's a contest) and you could
 disable them (or skip them, whatever you want to call it), then it
 would only take 2 pushes of the Band Up/Down button.

-- 
Accuracy Transcends Speed


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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft] K2 - another contest winner

2007-07-05 Thread zl1aih
Well done and congratulations Doug.
73, 
Ken ZL1AIH
#767, #3725
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[Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread Clark Macaulay
Perhaps this question has been raised before, but I haven't been able to find 
it in the archives nor in the manual.  
   
  I've built a K1 (words fine) and am now building a K2. Yesterday, while 
finishing one of the first toroids in kit, I noticed one of the turns had 
crossed over the previous one, so I began to unwind it. Then I noticed that the 
wire had the enamel nicked in several places and chose to replace it. 
   
  In thiking over what might have happened, wondered if I may have been pulling 
the winding too tight. Currently, I'm pushing the wire through the center of 
the core rather than pulling it so as to keep it away from the core to 
minimize scratching it. Obviously, though, it's not possible to know if the 
winding has been scratching in making the bend around inside.
   
  So, my question is, to quote Shakespear, is my concern much ado about 
nothing? Am I winding them too tight (I noticed there are LONG leads after 
winding that could indicate the turns are too tight)?  
   
  73 de Clark KE4RQ 
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RE: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread Brett gazdzinski
 In my case, I wound them tight, and reduced the amount of wire
used so I did not have so much extra after the torod was done.
Some cores scrape the wire, I tried to use a bit more caution
but still had some scrapes, it does not matter, they don't short out.

I wound all my toroids with one extra turn, as the first pass
through the core counts as a turn (I did not know that), the rig
actually seemed to work better before I unwound one turn off
every toroid and re-did the alignment/calibration.

I would doubt the tightness makes much difference other than
looks, as one turn more or less did not seem to make any big difference
in my K2.

Brett
N2DTS



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clark Macaulay
 Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 8:27 AM
 To: ElecraftList
 Subject: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question
 
 Perhaps this question has been raised before, but I haven't 
 been able to find it in the archives nor in the manual.  

   I've built a K1 (words fine) and am now building a K2. 
 Yesterday, while finishing one of the first toroids in kit, I 
 noticed one of the turns had crossed over the previous one, 
 so I began to unwind it. Then I noticed that the wire had the 
 enamel nicked in several places and chose to replace it. 

   In thiking over what might have happened, wondered if I may 
 have been pulling the winding too tight. Currently, I'm 
 pushing the wire through the center of the core rather than 
 pulling it so as to keep it away from the core to minimize 
 scratching it. Obviously, though, it's not possible to know 
 if the winding has been scratching in making the bend around inside.

   So, my question is, to quote Shakespear, is my concern 
 much ado about nothing? Am I winding them too tight (I 
 noticed there are LONG leads after winding that could 
 indicate the turns are too tight)?  

   73 de Clark KE4RQ 
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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Clark,

Scraped wire can lead to shorted turns.  The core is not conductive, but 
if adjacent turns short to one another, failure will result.


You are doing it right by pushing the wire through the center rather 
than pulling it.  To keep the turns tight, dress the wire around the 
outside of the core with your finger, then push the wire through the 
center until a small loop remains - you can then snug the turn by 
pulling it the rest of the way through and no scraping should result.


Those ferrite cores do have sharp abrasive corners - it is the nature of 
ferrite cores and one of those things we have to deal with.
The powdered iron cores have smooth corners and do not create the 
scraped enamel problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

Clark Macaulay wrote:
Perhaps this question has been raised before, but I haven't been able to find it in the archives nor in the manual.  
   
  I've built a K1 (words fine) and am now building a K2. Yesterday, while finishing one of the first toroids in kit, I noticed one of the turns had crossed over the previous one, so I began to unwind it. Then I noticed that the wire had the enamel nicked in several places and chose to replace it. 
   
  In thiking over what might have happened, wondered if I may have been pulling the winding too tight. Currently, I'm pushing the wire through the center of the core rather than pulling it so as to keep it away from the core to minimize scratching it. Obviously, though, it's not possible to know if the winding has been scratching in making the bend around inside.
   
  So, my question is, to quote Shakespear, is my concern much ado about nothing? Am I winding them too tight (I noticed there are LONG leads after winding that could indicate the turns are too tight)?  
   

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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread KBG Luxford
With respect to toroid sharp edges, should one rub some wet and dry 
abrasive paper around the edges before winding?


How about winding plumbers' pipe thread teflon tape around the core 
before winding?


I am about to resume work on my K2!

Happy July 4

Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread Matthew Murphy Palmer
Not sure about hand sanding, but i know grinding ferrite is a tricky 
process, I haven been designing flyback transformers of late and grinding 
the gap in ferrite cores has resulted in many cracked and broken cores, i 
would assume if you are meticulous and careful hand sanding is probably ok. 


Matt
KD8DAO 

KBG Luxford writes: 

With respect to toroid sharp edges, should one rub some wet and dry 
abrasive paper around the edges before winding? 

How about winding plumbers' pipe thread teflon tape around the core before 
winding? 

I am about to resume work on my K2! 

Happy July 4 


Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Kevin:

Probably more effort than it's worth.

I have tried running a 'beveling' drill bit around the inner edges, 
and several other schemes, but not sure it's much help.


For the relatively few ferrite cores in the kit, I would urge the 
careful application of restraint while winding and not worrying about 
it from there on.


We hear very little(!) from builders regarding actual problems from 
shorted turns, so it's obviously not a significant problem... other 
than a source for worry for some builders. If it were a bulldog, his 
bark would be worse than his bite!


Cheers,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

At 08:19 07/05/2007, KBG Luxford wrote:
With respect to toroid sharp edges, should one rub some wet and 
dry abrasive paper around the edges before winding?


How about winding plumbers' pipe thread teflon tape around the core 
before winding?


I am about to resume work on my K2!

Happy July 4

Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
A single layer of plumber's teflon tape has worked well for me and appears 
to have little if any effect on coil Q etc. The stuff has a mind of its own 
though when you use it :-)


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


KBG Luxford  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

With respect to toroid sharp edges, should one rub some wet and dry 
abrasive paper around the edges before winding?


How about winding plumbers' pipe thread teflon tape around the core before 
winding?



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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Kevin,

I have not tried it, but I believe the ferrite material is harder than 
the 'wet and dry' paper.


All in all, I do not believe any prep work on the cores is worth the 
effort.  Just remember to *push* the wire through the center rather than 
trying to pull it through.  Using your finger to form the wire around 
the *outside* of the core as each turn is placed will result in a neater 
and tighter winding than all the pulling in the world.


Try it on 2 toroids - then wind your 3rd - after that you too can call 
yourself an expert.  Many folks seem to have some anxiety about toroids 
until they have wound some.  It is not necessarily the most pleasant 
task, but it is really easy - just do it.


If you have a long wire to deal with, start in the middle, wind half the 
turns and turn it over and wind with the other half.
As soon as you put a wire through the center of the core, start counting 
- that is one turn.  One full winding around the core is two turns.


73,
Don W3FPR

KBG Luxford wrote:
With respect to toroid sharp edges, should one rub some wet and dry 
abrasive paper around the edges before winding?


How about winding plumbers' pipe thread teflon tape around the core 
before winding?


I am about to resume work on my K2!

Happy July 4

Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP

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[Elecraft] K3: first Beta test impressions posted on contesting reflector

2007-07-05 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL

http://lists.contesting.com/pipermail/cq-contest/2007-July/074675.html

A bit vague, but I'll take what I can get.

de Doug KR2Q
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[Elecraft] K3 Beta Testing

2007-07-05 Thread Joseph Trombino Jr
Not sure if I have seen any info regarding K3 beta testing schedules in 
earlier posts so am wondering when the beta testing will be completed and 
when report(s) will be issued??


Also very interested in the test measurement numbers for the K3...wonder 
when they will be completed/released??


Probably sometime after beta testing is completed but hopefully before the 
K3 production units are shipped???


   73, Joe W2KJ
   I QRP, therefore I am 



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[Elecraft] K3: first Beta test impressions posted on contesting reflector

2007-07-05 Thread Bill Tippett



N6TR:
Simply put - this is a great radio.  I can't wait to get a
second one so I can fully move my SO2R station over to them.

KR2Q:
A bit vague, but I'll take what I can get.

Considering the source this is an outstanding
endorsement!  Tree N6TR is one of the best SO2R ops
in the world.  He often wins the NCJ CW Sprint which
is probably the most difficult contest in the world.
It's a 4-hour event where you must QSY at least 5 kHz
after working anyone answering your CQ, so it is a
true test of rig and operator agility.  If my memory
is correct, Tree holds the QSO record with something
like 425 QSOs.  Tree is also the author of TR Log so
he also knows how rigs should interface to computers.

Tree is also very understated.  You won't see
a lot of superlatives in his comments but you can be
assured his comments mean that the K3 is not plagued
with poor ergonomics or serious firmware issues, even
at this early stage of beta-testing.

Congratulations to the entire Elecraft K3 team
for an outstanding endorsement from one of the best
contest operators on the planet!

73,  Bill  W4ZV

P.S.  Do my comments qualify me for early shipment?  ;-)



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[Elecraft] Solder for K3 - really

2007-07-05 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I remember the long thread about solder to use - and I see the Warrant is up
on the site for the K3, but since it is a solderless kit, I assume that bit
doesn't appy?

However, I've ordered an XV144 too and guess solder type does apply to that.
I have solder going back 20 years, so not sure if it meets the critia for
'acid' free - could UK kit builders recommend a source of it in the UK
please?

Sorry to open the thread up again.
-- 
Write the bad things that are done to you in the sand, but write the
good things that happen to you on a piece of marble. -Arabian wisdom


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Re: [Elecraft] k2 question

2007-07-05 Thread David Wilburn
Have used mine quite a few hours.  Mostly over the field day weekend, 
but also for general tuning around.  Used it for both SSB and CW.  I 
have not had any frustrations with tuning.  I have not used a K1, so 
cannot compare.  I tend to use the .1 tuning rate, and then back up if I 
heard something.  I'm have no complaints, and have been quite happy with 
the rig.  Just finished and installed the DSP over the weekend.


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


Frank wrote:

K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and do use 
it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it smooth to 
use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
   Thank You 
Frank Caputo

WA2AAW
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Re: [Elecraft] 10m is open

2007-07-05 Thread f9oj.7
Hi
Lots of European  stations here in Europe, but not too many DX stations,
unfortunately.  Be patient, all will be OK ...in 5 or 6 years !

73
Jacques de F9OJ
- Original Message - 
From: Ron Polityka [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: .Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 6:52 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] 10m is open


 Hello and Happy 4th of July!!!

 Just worked W0EWD in IA on 28.027 MHz.

 He was a strong 599 into Eastern PA with the beam.

 I plan on calling CQ for a little while on 28.060 on the beam pointing
west.

 72 and Thanks,
 Ron Polityka
 WB3AAL
 www.wb3aal.com
 www.n3epa.org/

 K1 - SN 01011
 K2 - SN 01392


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 -- 
 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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10:02




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Re: [Elecraft] k2 question

2007-07-05 Thread Christopher Kovacs

Frank wrote:

K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and do use 
it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it smooth to 
use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
   Thank You 
Frank Caputo

WA2AAW
  
If you like the K1 dial/tuning, you'll love the K2.  I have had both; 
the K1 is good, but the K2 is wonderful.  Plus, you can change the dial 
rate :)


Chris  W0ANM
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[Elecraft] K3 Question

2007-07-05 Thread Goody K3NG
Greetings.  I've read through the FAQ and have one question which may 
sound basic and silly, and I hesitate to ask.  With the stock roofing 
filter and the DSP functions, can I expect comparable or better CW 
performance to what I have with my Kenwood 850 with a 500 Hz crystal 
filter?  I want to get a K3 badly, but I don't want to fork out the 
extra dollars up front for a 250 Hz or 500 Hz roofing filter.  
(Certainly later I will get one of these and perhaps a 6 kHz filter for 
listening to AM.)


My guess answer to this question would be yes, but I haven't had the 
opportunity to see a K3 in action.


Thanks in advance for any feedback.

72
Goody
K3NG
K1 #505
K3 #???

--
Blog: http://thek3ngreport.blogspot.com/

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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread Mychael Morohovich
Hi, Kevin-

Some of the ferrite cores can be a bit rough around the edges. When I
encounter a batch that exhibits this characteristic, I use a drill-bit to
clean up the burr prior to winding. Pick a drill-bit of a size
substantially larger than the toroid's inner diameter, and spin its tip
back and forth a few times in the toroid's hole. You should fine that the
burr comes off easily. I don't usually have trouble with the OD of the
toroid, but in that case you could use some fine sand paper.

73,

Mychael / AA3WF
K2 #1025


 With respect to toroid sharp edges, should one rub some wet and dry 
 abrasive paper around the edges before winding?
 Kevin
 VK3DAP / ZL2DAP


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[Elecraft] K3 Question

2007-07-05 Thread Bill Tippett



K3NG:
can I expect comparable or better CW performance to
what I have with my Kenwood 850 with a 500 Hz crystal filter?

Probably better but you need IMD performance
at 2 kHz spacings using the stock 2.7 kHz filter to
answer for sure.  Sherwood Engineering measured the
TS-850S with dual Inrad 400 Hz filters (in the 8.8 MHz
and 455 kHz IFs).  At 2 kHz, IMD was 77 dB.  Considering
that this is with a 15 kHz roofing filter in the 1st IF
of 73 MHz, I suspect the K3's 2.7 kHz filter in its 1st
IF of 8.125 MHz will be substantially better.

Using the optional 400 Hz filter in K3, we have
already seen the following hints from Elecraft:

N6KR: But just to give you a hint: a couple of days ago Eric
measured a blocking dynamic range of 143 dB, and it remained 143 dB at
20 kHz, 5 kHz, and 2 kHz. To put this into perspective, the K2,
IC-7800, Orion II, and FTDX9000all have a blocking dynamic range of
-133 to -135.

WA6HHQ: As an example, we're seeing third order IMD D.R. numbers on
20M at 20 kHz spacings in excess of 104 dB and 97 dB at 5 kHz with the
400 Hz filter ahead of the DSP. (de W4ZV - Orion II is 95 dB at 5 kHz)

Plus, when N6TR says he is replacing
both of his TS-850s with K3s in his SO2R setup,
you can probably take that to the bank!

73,  Bill  W4ZV

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[Elecraft] K3 Beta: more reviews from the contesters

2007-07-05 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL

http://lists.contesting.com/pipermail/cq-contest/2007-July/074680.html

This is more granular

de Doug KR2Q
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Question

2007-07-05 Thread AB7R
Goody,

A TS-850 is one of the rigs I have not owned, so cannot make a definitive
comparison.  Butget it with the stock filter.  If you feel you need more
help with the stronger signals, then get the narrower roofing filter.  Or if
they're available by then, one of the variable BW roofing filters.

73
Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Goody K3NG
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 9:38 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Question


Greetings.  I've read through the FAQ and have one question which may
sound basic and silly, and I hesitate to ask.  With the stock roofing
filter and the DSP functions, can I expect comparable or better CW
performance to what I have with my Kenwood 850 with a 500 Hz crystal
filter?  I want to get a K3 badly, but I don't want to fork out the
extra dollars up front for a 250 Hz or 500 Hz roofing filter.
(Certainly later I will get one of these and perhaps a 6 kHz filter for
listening to AM.)

My guess answer to this question would be yes, but I haven't had the
opportunity to see a K3 in action.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

72
Goody
K3NG
K1 #505
K3 #???

--
Blog: http://thek3ngreport.blogspot.com/

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Question

2007-07-05 Thread AB7R
Keep in mind however that to really realize the K3's potential when
operating CW you really should have either the 500, 400, 250 or 200 Hz
filters installed, depending on your operating preferences.  With this
installed, you will be way ahead of the 850's performance, as well as just
about every other rig (if not all).final number not quite ready yet.
:)

73
Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Goody K3NG
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 9:38 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Question


Greetings.  I've read through the FAQ and have one question which may
sound basic and silly, and I hesitate to ask.  With the stock roofing
filter and the DSP functions, can I expect comparable or better CW
performance to what I have with my Kenwood 850 with a 500 Hz crystal
filter?  I want to get a K3 badly, but I don't want to fork out the
extra dollars up front for a 250 Hz or 500 Hz roofing filter.
(Certainly later I will get one of these and perhaps a 6 kHz filter for
listening to AM.)

My guess answer to this question would be yes, but I haven't had the
opportunity to see a K3 in action.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

72
Goody
K3NG
K1 #505
K3 #???

--
Blog: http://thek3ngreport.blogspot.com/

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.0/887 - Release Date: 7/5/2007
1:55 PM

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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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1:55 PM

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Re: [Elecraft] 10m is open

2007-07-05 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

Jacques,

Have not been able to check 10m this past week, but some good but brief 10m 
multihop Es openings to the west the week before in among the Europeans. 
VE9AA worked G7CNF 6m - 4m crossband on June 26th via multihop Es. FWIW my 
bet is 10m F layer openings in 2 -1/2 or 3 years time!!


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


- Original Message - 
From: f9oj.7 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Ron Polityka [EMAIL PROTECTED]; .Elecraft 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 10m is open



Hi
Lots of European  stations here in Europe, but not too many DX stations,
unfortunately.  Be patient, all will be OK ...in 5 or 6 years !

73
Jacques de F9OJ



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Re: [Elecraft] k2 question

2007-07-05 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Frank
The K2 tuning experience is smooth, but a bit different.
The K1 is continuous tuning with an LC oscillator.
The K2 uses a sort of synthesizer, in that the tuning
goes about 5 kHz then there is a tick as the internal
works switches to the next 5 kHz range.  For all
practical purposes, it is continuous tuning.  An
advantage to the K2 tuning is that you can change
the tuning rate from the front panel.  Mine has three
different tuning rates which I just love.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Frank [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 5:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] k2 question


 K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and
do use it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it
smooth to use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
Thank You
 Frank Caputo
 WA2AAW
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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread John Young

I've not had a problem - yet,

Has anyone tried painting the rough areas with a little clear nail polish?
Seems simpler than trying to sand or drill and should not affect the inductance.

73 John
WA8KNE



Clark Macaulay wrote:
 Perhaps this question has been raised before, but I haven't been able to find 
it in the archives nor in the manual.

   I've built a K1 (words fine) and am now building a K2. Yesterday, while 
finishing one of the first toroids in kit, I noticed one of the turns had crossed 
over the previous one, so I began to unwind it. Then I noticed that the wire had 
the enamel nicked in several places and chose to replace it.

   In thiking over what might have happened, wondered if I may have been pulling the winding too 
tight. Currently, I'm pushing the wire through the center of the core rather than 
pulling it so as to keep it away from the core to minimize scratching it. Obviously, 
though, it's not possible to know if the winding has been scratching in making the bend around inside.

   So, my question is, to quote Shakespear, is my concern much ado about 
nothing? Am I winding them too tight (I noticed there are LONG leads after winding 
that could indicate the turns are too tight)?

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--
John D Young
WA8KNE
ETC USN retired
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Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question

2007-07-05 Thread Stuart Rohre
You can reinsulate the wire by painting it with clear nail polish.   In 
fact, the cores are not a concern as they are an insulating material.  The 
bare wire touching the core is not a concern, a bare wire touching an 
adjacent winding is what to avoid.  You do not have to have the turns pulled 
so tight against the cores that you are abrading the insulation.  Gently 
pushing or pulling them thru should be fine.  I sometimes make my cores 
look better by pushing gently on the winding to make the wires lie more 
flat against the core.  This is safely done with the fleshy part of the 
thumb.


Stuart
K5KVH
- Original Message - 
From: John Young [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: ElecraftList elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Clark Macaulay 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Toroid Winding Question



I've not had a problem - yet,

Has anyone tried painting the rough areas with a little clear nail polish?
Seems simpler than trying to sand or drill and should not affect the 
inductance.


73 John
WA8KNE



Clark Macaulay wrote:
 Perhaps this question has been raised before, but I haven't been able 
 to find it in the archives nor in the manual.


   I've built a K1 (words fine) and am now building a K2. Yesterday, 
 while finishing one of the first toroids in kit, I noticed one of the 
 turns had crossed over the previous one, so I began to unwind it. Then 
 I noticed that the wire had the enamel nicked in several places and 
 chose to replace it.


   In thiking over what might have happened, wondered if I may have been 
 pulling the winding too tight. Currently, I'm pushing the wire 
 through the center of the core rather than pulling it so as to keep 
 it away from the core to minimize scratching it. Obviously, though, 
 it's not possible to know if the winding has been scratching in making 
 the bend around inside.


   So, my question is, to quote Shakespear, is my concern much ado 
 about nothing? Am I winding them too tight (I noticed there are LONG 
 leads after winding that could indicate the turns are too tight)?


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--
John D Young
WA8KNE
ETC USN retired
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[Elecraft] Colorado QSO Party

2007-07-05 Thread JIMMY D HARRIS


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[Elecraft] Trade Ten Tec Jupiter towards a K2/100

2007-07-05 Thread NZ8J

I have an excellent condition Ten Tec Jupiter with the remote tuning
knob that I would like to work out a trade towards a late serial number
K2/100. I am going to go with Elecraft for my HF equipment. (also
patiently waiting for my K3) The Jupiter looks and works great, has the
factory shipping container, power cord and manual. It does NOT have the
internal tuner. Has the latest firmware installed. Please email with
details if interested.  Probably not many on this list interested in
this trade, but there are a lot of K2/100's here..  :)
Thanks 
Tim
NZ8J

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[Elecraft] Zero Beat WWV

2007-07-05 Thread joey mcg
Ok, totally confused by the zero beat to WWV.  I can zero beat an un-oscillated 
WWV carrier at two points, in USS and LSB.  When they add the odd-hour 600hz 
tone, things become even more confusing.
   
  I suppose I am relagated to obtaining a spectrum analyser, but which mode 
should I use to zero beat when I do so?  USB, LSB or CW?
   
  Killing me here...
   
  KQ4FW - Joe
   
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Re: [Elecraft] Zero Beat WWV

2007-07-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Joe,

Let me see if I can help.  First I usually think of 'tuning WWV' rather 
than 'zero-beating' just to keep my mind straight - I leave the Zero 
Beat term reserved for CW use when you want to tune the desired signal 
to match your sidetone pitch.


Tune WWV in using LSB or USB because the K2 does not add an offset for 
LSB and USB.  There are 3 ways of doing it:  1) Tune the carrier to an 
audio frequency of zero (which you cannot really hear, but go as low as 
you can) and refine it by tuning until the voice announcements sound 
'natural'.  2) Understand the sequence of tones transmitted by WWV - for 
the most part they alternate between 500 and 600 Hz on alternate minutes 
(there is also a 440 Hz tone transmitted one minute of each hour).  Set 
your sidetone pitch to either 500 or 600 Hz and use the SPOT on the K2 
to match the transmitted tone at the correct minute.  Or 3) My preferred 
method is to use Spectrogram (yes, this is an audio 'spectrum analyzer') 
and feed the K2 audio into the computer soundcard input - with 
Spectrogram set up properly, you will be able to see the transmitted 
tones on the Spectrogram display, set a marker in Spectrogram to 500 Hz 
and another to 600 Hz and watch the display to be certain the tones 
alternate between those two markers - when they do, you are accurately 
tuned to WWV.  I find this is the easiest method for folks like me who 
have trouble discerning the pitch of a tone - if you are a musician and 
have 'perfect pitch' you will not likely need such a visual aid.


You can download the last freeware version of Spectrogram from Tom 
Hammond's website www.n0ss.net.  If you need some information on how to 
set up Spectrogram, read over the K2 dial calibration article on my 
website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com - the latter part of that article (CAL 
PLL) has information and links to setting up Spectrogram.


73,
Don W3FPR

joey mcg wrote:

Ok, totally confused by the zero beat to WWV.  I can zero beat an un-oscillated 
WWV carrier at two points, in USS and LSB.  When they add the odd-hour 600hz 
tone, things become even more confusing.
   
  I suppose I am relagated to obtaining a spectrum analyser, but which mode should I use to zero beat when I do so?  USB, LSB or CW?
   
  Killing me here...
   
  KQ4FW - Joe

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Re: [Elecraft] Zero Beat WWV

2007-07-05 Thread Stuart Rohre
They turn off the tone modulation every hour for a bit.  See their schedule 
for time of this.  That is the time you do your most accurate zero beating, 
and in CW mode of your receiver.


Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Zero Beat WWV

2007-07-05 Thread Mike S

At 05:25 PM 7/5/2007, joey mcg wrote...
Ok, totally confused by the zero beat to WWV.  I can zero beat an 
un-oscillated WWV carrier at two points, in USS and LSB.  When they 
add the odd-hour 600hz tone, things become even more confusing.


Bounce back and forth between LSB and USB (hold down CW RV for a second 
to quickly switch), adjusting the frequency until the tones WWV 
transmits sound the same in both modes.  


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