Re: [Elecraft] K3's internal cw keyer
On Monday 30 July 2007 01:39, George wrote: I don't see anything listed anywhere on the K3's internal CW keyer features. How many memories, speed range, actuation, etc. Anyone have this info? One further question - is the weighting adjustable on the K3 CW internal keyer? Charles - K2/100 Nr 5901 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Internal Voice Keyer
Hi all, A question about the K3 voice keyer. I find these things frustrating sometimes because of all the required button pushing. My ideal would be :- 1. The ability to record several messages (I know this is obvious!) 2. The ability to have either a single run or to have it looping with a user variable spacing 3. (This is important to me and I have not seen it anywhere as yet) The ability to simply key the PTT to stop the playback and override the recorder without having to press stop! Is this going to be possible? Ian -- Ian J Maude G0VGS SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster Member of RSGB, ARRL, GQRP K2 #4044 | K3 #? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft's 1-Year Limited K3 Warranty?
Eric - Thanks for clarifying the warranty thing, for our purchases of the future K3. I figured it was a typo. to unknown Lost no sleep, not a big deal - just a normal thing us customer types, ask. I'm not into mojo - rather a guy who has been burned in more than a few transactions over the years %50 to Water System guy, cancelled order for magic water treatment ozone thingy - never got $50 back. (1985) $2700 lost, for co-sign 3 of us did, for co-worker, who's nephew had brain cancer. Never got our $2700 back. (1986) $700 lost, for like new Chevy Caprice, that instead of 100K miles, had 300K well-hidden miles. I paid for motor. (1973) Shoe salesman sold his car. $550 lost, for new motor we had to put in ourselves, into our pickup truck we loaned to a nice couple we barely knew, for church activities - they burnt motor out, and busted block in their moving activities. Returned truck to us sorry about that. (1991) $3700 Insurance Claim we had to cover on our car, for commercial park tent blowing onto our car. . we have no insurance like that. (July 2007) $100 lost for repairing clutch in motorscooter, bought from a good friend, for his like-new no-problems never used Honda Scooter. Bought scooter, he's got mojo. (May 2007) I tend to give the other guy, the break. And normally had been always a trusting soul. These dissapointments happen, and to some they are not seen, from their position in the sand. It WILL happen to the best of us! ...good luck Fred, de N3CSY Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's 1-Year Limited K3 Warranty?
Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: Fixed! We always intended this to reflect the date we ship to a customer. The new wording is: ** This warranty is effective as of the date of first consumer purchase (or if shipped from factory, date product is shipped to customer). 73, Eric WA6HHQ Elecraft That first consumer purchase wording is informative - it could indicate that sometime in the future I may be able to buy a new Elecraft product over the counter at HRO and other ham gear stores. I really don't know if Elecraft is looking at the sales outlet possibility seriously, but if it occurs, the warranty now covers it. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] size of radio limits?
Well, we will get what we get. Small is nice, and I think the K3 would make a GREAT mobile rig, I might try it! It should be great on 10 when that band opens up. Elecraft has always taken into account size, weight, and power on their rigs, as many carry them up mountains and all over the world. They are the best rigs for that. That is why I think it would be neat to offer a home version of the K3, same circuits as a K3, but in a larger box and with a band scope and band buttons (or more one button, one push functions). I would guess once you make a rig this good, with all the features and performance the K3 has, and not as a kit, loads of mainstream people will want one, to sit on the desk of their large shack, and being small will annoy them. There were complaints about the K2 being too small from those types. I was looking on ebay last night, and found a remote color display for some rig, a nice standalone color display like a small computer LCD monitor, for $140.00 each. The display looked better than what is on the ten tec rigs! So maybe adding one would not be so expensive as it looks... I got to wonder how big Elecraft wants to get, with the new K3 and the K3 home version, the amplifiers they are working on, plus all the other stuff they sell, they could get quite huge if they wanted to I would think... Or would that ruin things? Brett N2DTS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Charles Harpole Sent: Friday, July 27, 2007 2:06 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] size of radio limits? I do not accept Elecraft's reasoning that their rig is too small for that feature. At under 9 lbs, and the dimensions less than a loaf of bread, the K3 is already so small that it is nearing functional limits on the front panel compared to the size of fingers. And, yes, I think the IC-706 went well beyond the functional limit... too small. Ok, let us say a couple of desired features, like band stacking registers, would have added a half inch height to the front panel oh, gee, what a horror! Let us say another feature like band buttons or two other features would have added a whole pound to its weight, oh, no, its maybe even 12 pounds I can't carry it !!! Please, when a radio is this small, sacrificing reasonable other features because of size or weight is just not a reasonable excuse in my book. Cost, maybe; size, no. When ever did a ham say, oh gosh, this radio is just too big? Maybe the one day when he carries it onto his desk? Many more likely say, as I have hrd so often, the rig is too llittle for me. So where is the drive coming from for smaller is better? Ok, mobile rigs need to be small. So, I am going mobile with my K3 ? not, and few are, I bet. There does not even seem to be a mobile mount sold with it, telling us something there. I need a light rig for DXpeditions-- got one already (706), and how few K3 owners will go on DXpeditions? Maybe 2 dozen? So, maybe the need for a small K3 amounts to about 100 mobile uses and maybe 50 DXpeditioners. For 150 customers, lets design a small radio and let the other thousands of buyers cope with tiny, but, let us excuse left off features by saying everyone wanted it small Ha ! BUT, please keep my order for a K3 kit active 73 Charles Harpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] new to the List
Good Morning, My name is Ben. My callsign is K0BLR. I just joined the list because I am looking into which rig to get for a base radio. I just realized there is the K2 and the K3 soon to come if not already. Anways, I am writing the group because I would like to hear what peoples thoughts are of the K2/100 and the K3/100. The other two radios I am considering is the IC-746pro and the TS-2000. thanks 73, Ben, K0BLR Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] disconnecting antennas
No one, not even the vaulted PolyPhaser org has refuted my lightning rallying cry No path, No strike. Disconnecting is simple, very cheap, and as close to foolproof as human kind can achieve. 73 Charles Harpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-usocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_2G_0507 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] new to the List
Welcome to the list. What sort of operating are you going to do with the radio? I am surely no expert, but I have a K2, a K3 on order, had an icom 756 pro, and other rigs. The K2 is a kit, is small, and lacks some features the top end rigs have, but its very inexpensive, very portable, very low power drain, and on CW at least, works much better then the other radios on your list. The K3 will be less portable than the k2, but not much less. Its an all mode all band (to 6 meters) rig with lots of features and likely the best performing radio you can buy anywhere. If you operate CW mostly, from a small shack, RV, car, backpack, like operating field day, or on solar power, on a budget, the K2/K2-100 would be the one. (the 15 watt K2 with the built in antenna tuner is one slick package) If you want to do it all, (contest, chase DX, operate on 6 meters, do the digital modes, operate AM, FM, SSB, CW, etc) the K3 is for you. For the price of many other radios, you could get a K3 and a K2! Building the K2 as a kit is very fun, easy, and rewarding. There is nothing like using a radio you built! All the Elecraft rigs allow you to add only what you want, whenever you want it. Many people add features as they want them or get the money. Brett N2DTS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ben Ramler Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 9:35 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] new to the List Good Morning, My name is Ben. My callsign is K0BLR. I just joined the list because I am looking into which rig to get for a base radio. I just realized there is the K2 and the K3 soon to come if not already. Anways, I am writing the group because I would like to hear what peoples thoughts are of the K2/100 and the K3/100. The other two radios I am considering is the IC-746pro and the TS-2000. thanks 73, Ben, K0BLR __ __Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] task for u? OT
Hello: Retired? Time on ur hands? Experimenting minded? Willing to try new things? Then do this: Set up one fresh, uncooked hen egg in a porcelain cup. Closely on either side of the egg, place a cell mobile telephone. That is, a phone on either of the two sides of this egg set-up. Set one phone to call the other and play some speaking record or music to keep the cel phones transmitting. Let this transmitting run for at least 70 minutes. Then, examine the egg for its heating, if any, and any cooking of the egg, if any. Report results. Debunk or affirm a popular urban legend. Big thanks, 73 Charles Harpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ http://newlivehotmail.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] OT: FS: Crystal Radio Receiver stuff
For Sale, homebrew crystal radio with 1N34A detector (Salt Box coil form) works really well and will pick up close stations with 20 foot wire antenna. Needs high impedance headphones, either crystal or magnetic (2K impedance or higher) Also have a set of genuine antique Trimm Featherweight high impedance headphones and a real Galena crystal/cat-whisker detector. Pictures are posted on my website -- http://members.cox.net/asheldon/XtalRadio.jpg and http://members.cox.net/asheldon/Galena.jpg Asking prices: Crystal Radio $15.00 Galena Detector $15.00 Trimm antique phones $50.00 Shipping is included. If someone wants everything together, I'll ship it to you for $70.00 Payment by PayPal, check or money order Reply off list if interested. W0EB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] disconnecting antennas
Original Message- From: Charles Harpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] No one, not even the vaulted PolyPhaser org has refuted my lightning rallying cry No path, No strike. The problem is simple: Disconnecting doesn't eliminate the path. If a bolt of lightning can jump several hundred feet (or more) of air, why would a few feet of air caused by disconnecting eliminate the path? Disconnecting is simple, very cheap, and as close to foolproof as human kind can achieve. 73 Disconnecting won't stop a strike. What disconnecting will do is to keep *induced* voltages away from the rig. 73 de Jim, N2EY AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. =0 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Lower power output after master reset...
Hi, I managed to fix my K2 after an intermittent on the Control Board appeared. In the process I did a master reset hoping somehow that would fix my problem. Now that my K2 is operational again, I've lost some of my power output. It is almost certainly a calibration or setting issue. I didn't build this K2 nor any other. So I don't know my way around the rig. It also has the KAT2 option, which probably also lost some settings. My power used to peak at 15 watts on 40 meters. Now it is lucky to get 10 watts. Otherwise the K2 seems just fine. Can someone point me to right part of the manual to make the necessary adjustments. My K2 is serial number 2289. It has the mods for the conversion of Revision B and the 2.04p firmware. The KAT2 firmware is 1.09, at least that is the second # showing in the version display. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Lower power output after master reset (long)...
Steve, There is nothing that you did which would alter the power output. There are no settings which control the maximum output, other than the CAL CUR setting which defaults to 2.50 Amps and should be adequate for the QRP K2 - the indication that CAL CUR may be reducing the maximum power wold become apparent because a HI CUR message would be presented on the display. If the trimer pots on the KAT2 were moved, that would provide an explanation. Set the ATU menu to CALP, attach a good dummy load and see what the power indication is under those conditions. If you want to assure yourself that the KAT2 indication is accurate, go through the procedure I have detailed below. (do that before assuming there is a problem with the K2 or the KAT2). Are you using a good power supply which produces 13.8 volts, and do you have a good power cable of adequate gauge between the power supply and the K2? I prefer 16g or larger wire to minimize the voltage drop. tap the DISPLAY button and then do a TUNE while observing how much the voltage drops during transmit - you may be surprised. If you have adequate voltage to the K2 during transmit and the power indication is still low, you should check to see whether the problem is in the base K2 or the KAT2 forward power alignment. Remove the KAT2 and connect a known good 50 ohm resistive dummy load to the K2 BNC connector. It is wise to check the dummy load with an antenna analyzer and operate near the frequencies where it is really a 50 ohm non-reactive load. With the KAT2 disconnected, the 'power detector' is a simple diode detector and will be as accurate as your dummy load. See what the maximum power is with that combination - that checks the K2 power output capability. Next attach the KAT2, and set the ATU parameter to CALP. Attach the known good dummy load to the ANT1 jack (make sure the K2 has ANT1 selected). Do a TUNE while monitoring the DC voltage at the hot end of KAT2 R2, and using an insulated screwdriver, adjust C55 for the smallest voltage that you can produce - the KAT2 wattmeter bridge is now balanced. Next you will need something to measure the actual power into the dummy load - a known accurate wattmeter (but some of them have errors approaching 20% of the full scale reading - that is 20 watts on a 100 watt scale!), or a calibrated oscilloscope and good 10x probe, or an RF probe and your DMM. If you have an accurate wattmeter, it is easy - just adjust KAT2 R1 until the K2 display indicates the same power as your wattmeter. If you use the 'scope, connect it across the dummy load (a TEE adapter will give you access if there is no other way) and measure the peak to peak RF voltage on the 'scope - use the formula V^2/400 (where V is the peak to peak voltage) to calculate the power - adjust R1 until the calculated power and the K2 display agree. If you are using an RF probe, you must know if it reads in RMS voltage or peak voltage. Most RF Probes have the diode connected between the ground lug and the 'hot' side of the probe (like that shown in the K2 manual) and will read RMS voltage - if you have a probe like that, the formula for power is V^2/50 where V is the RMS value of the RF voltage. If your RF probe uses a series diode, it will indicate the zero to peak voltage of the RF wave and you can calculate the power as V^2/100 where V is the zero to peak RF voltage. All the above formulas assume a 50 ohm dummy load - vary from that and you will have inaccurate results. The peak reading RF Probe does have the voltage drop of the diode to consider, but can be ignored (because it is small) for powers above 2 watts or so. The Elecraft DL1 is another alternative as a good dummy load because it not only is a good 50 ohm load, but contains a peak reading diode detector as well - so if you have the DL1, you can compute the actaul power by using the formula in the manual or using a graph. Once you calibrate the wattmeter in the KAT2, then you will know its accuracy and can properly address whether or not there is a low power output from your K2. 73, Don W3FPR Steve Kallal wrote: Hi, I managed to fix my K2 after an intermittent on the Control Board appeared. In the process I did a master reset hoping somehow that would fix my problem. Now that my K2 is operational again, I've lost some of my power output. It is almost certainly a calibration or setting issue. I didn't build this K2 nor any other. So I don't know my way around the rig. It also has the KAT2 option, which probably also lost some settings. My power used to peak at 15 watts on 40 meters. Now it is lucky to get 10 watts. Otherwise the K2 seems just fine. Can someone point me to right part of the manual to make the necessary adjustments. My K2 is serial number 2289. It has the mods for the conversion of Revision B and the 2.04p firmware. The KAT2 firmware is 1.09, at least that is the second # showing in the version
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Keying contacts - Clairification
What if they are 'gold plated' contacts-- does this change the scenario at all? On another note-- how does one tell the checmical makeup visually between bronze, gold, etc.? - Original Message - snip/ served to help keep them clean. Modern very low voltage/low current keying circuits don't do that and the contacts easily become intermittent as they collect a coat of oxides and dirt. Such contacts need no such delicate care as perhaps modern contacts might, although it'd be foolish damage them further needlessly. (Some old keys do have silver contacts which should be treated with care, especially if they're plated and not solid silver. Silver oxide is a good conductor, so even if they appear black they are still good electrical contacts. If they become intermittent it's not because they are oxidized but because they are actually dirty with a film covering the silver. Very gentle wiping should restore good contact.) snip/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Lower power output after master reset...
One thing I noticed on my K2 is that the slightest swr will fold back the power output a lot. The basic K2 reads power output as voltage only at the antenna output, and that is used to adjust the power output of the radio. Pushing the tune button would change the power output a lot, as the rig reads the voltage and makes adjustments. When you add the built in antenna tuner, that has an swr reading circuit, so power is more accurate and stable I think. I think there is an swr calibration procedure, and you might also make sure the antenna tuner actually tuned down to a 1.1 to 1 swr. Brett N2DTS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve Kallal Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 11:12 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Lower power output after master reset... Hi, I managed to fix my K2 after an intermittent on the Control Board appeared. In the process I did a master reset hoping somehow that would fix my problem. Now that my K2 is operational again, I've lost some of my power output. It is almost certainly a calibration or setting issue. I didn't build this K2 nor any other. So I don't know my way around the rig. It also has the KAT2 option, which probably also lost some settings. My power used to peak at 15 watts on 40 meters. Now it is lucky to get 10 watts. Otherwise the K2 seems just fine. Can someone point me to right part of the manual to make the necessary adjustments. My K2 is serial number 2289. It has the mods for the conversion of Revision B and the 2.04p firmware. The KAT2 firmware is 1.09, at least that is the second # showing in the version display. 73, Steve N6VL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's 1-Year Limited K3 Warranty?
That first consumer purchase wording is informative - it could indicate that sometime in the future I may be able to buy a new Elecraft product over the counter at HRO and other ham gear stores. I really don't know if Elecraft is looking at the sales outlet possibility seriously, but if it occurs, the warranty now covers it. 73, Don W3FPR = I was thinking that HRO couldn't be happy about the K3 as there will be little reason to buy any other rig. But if they can sell them, that is another matter. I don't know if there is enough markup in the K3 to support second party retail sales. It seems like we are getting alot of radio for the dollar. 73 Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and DSP
I notice no mention in the Reflector about the DSP module in the K2. Furthermore, I never see a K2 equipped with DSP for sale. Is there a reason that the DSP module is not popular in the K2? - 73, John, W0JFR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] HRO / AES sales of Elecraft rigs.
I think outlet sales would be a mistake. I think places like HRO and AES are not on a growth path. Recall what happened with TenTec. TenTec was made in USA and sold by HRO / AES. Unfortunately, the rice box stuff was routinely out selling the TT stuff. There was some though that HRO / AES were pushing the other stuff and not trying to sell TT gear. TenTec eventually began just selling their own stuff and I figured it would be a short time until they were gone. Well, they're doing pretty good now and have carved out a pretty good share of the market. In this internet age, is it just more efficient to go to the source and buy it rather than go through a middleman. With the Asian rigs it is more difficult but with Elecraft here in the USA, buying directly from them works. Then there is the kit-oriented approach. Kit makers sell directly because there is a support issue that they have to deal with. You're going to call them directly anyway so you might as well buy from them. Once the business is set up to do direct sales you might as well do all your sales direct and that includes your finished products as well as kits. So I have a hard time envisioning Elecraft going to HRO or AES for K3 sales when they're probably going to keep kit sales under their own roof. Of course, I could be wrong ... :-) - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- I really don't know if Elecraft is looking at the sales outlet possibility seriously, but if it occurs, the warranty now covers it. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP
Is there a reason that the DSP module is not popular in the K2? Actually, it is quite popular! 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP
John: I have a DSP module in my K2 and I think that it is wonderful. K2/DSP is discussed occasionally on the list. There are two notable points of discussion. 1) Some users (including me) report a loud pop on CW keying with the DSP installed. This is easily remedied by tweaking the T-R delay settings. 2) With DSP denoising activated, the radio sometimes becomes so quiet that you think it is broken, and you need to turn off the denoising to see if the radio is still working. With the denoising on, as you tune across signals they seem to pop out of the surrounding nothingness. If you do no see many postings about K2/DSP, I suspect that the reason is that so little goes wrong with it. 73, Steve Kercel AA4AK At 01:19 PM 7/31/2007, John Reilly wrote: I notice no mention in the Reflector about the DSP module in the K2. Furthermore, I never see a K2 equipped with DSP for sale. Is there a reason that the DSP module is not popular in the K2? - 73, John, W0JFR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] HRO / AES sales of Elecraft rigs. [END of Thread]
We are not selling though AES, HRO or other U.S. dealers at this time and have no plans to do so. The statement about first consumer purchase in our Warranty was left in to cover direct sales via our booth at Hamfests etc. Let's end this thread before it takes off. :-) 73, Eric WA6HHQ Elecraft List Moderator etc. Darwin, Keith wrote: I think outlet sales would be a mistake. I think places like HRO and AES are not on a growth path. Recall what happened with TenTec. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Inquiring minds want to know...
Sorry, just caught up with my Elecraft Journal reading... It seems to me there is one question that has been completely overlooked. What happens to Elecraft when Wayne and Eric retire to that dreamed of enchanted Pacific Island? 73, Julius Devil's Advocate n2wn Tennessee QSO Party 2007 9 Sept, 1800z - 10 Sept, 0300z http://www.tnqp.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Inquiring minds want to know...
J F wrote: Sorry, just caught up with my Elecraft Journal reading... It seems to me there is one question that has been completely overlooked. What happens to Elecraft when Wayne and Eric retire to that dreamed of enchanted Pacific Island? 73, Julius Devil's Advocate n2wn What, after the Chinese make them an offer they can't refuse for the company? -- --- _____ / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ John L. Sielke ( W )( 2 )( A )( G )( N ) http://w2agn.net \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ http://www.blurty.com/users/w2agn check out: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/QRPariahs/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Inquiring minds want to know...
On Jul 30, 2007, at 10:59 AM, J F wrote: What happens to Elecraft when Wayne and Eric retire to that dreamed of enchanted Pacific Island? Not likely anytime in the next 20 years, but our chosen island would still have a lab, high-speed internet, a Radio Shack, and a FedEx store :) 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP
Hi John: I notice no mention in the Reflector about the DSP module in the K2. Furthermore, I never see a K2 equipped with DSP for sale. That's because we're KEEPING them !!! 73, Tom N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Inquiring minds want to know...
And -excellent- SCUBA diving... ;-) 73, Eric wayne burdick wrote: On Jul 30, 2007, at 10:59 AM, J F wrote: What happens to Elecraft when Wayne and Eric retire to that dreamed of enchanted Pacific Island? Not likely anytime in the next 20 years, but our chosen island would still have a lab, high-speed internet, a Radio Shack, and a FedEx store :) 73, Wayne ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP
Couldn't live without it. Gregg Lengling, W9DHI Administrator http://forums.ham-radio.ch http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org Is there a reason that the DSP module is not popular in the K2? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft's 1-Year Limited K3 Warranty?
I have been friends with previous employees/manager of the ham gear stores and all is not what it seems to the user community. They make very little markup today on rigs, they make their money on the small things (cables, plugs, books, etc) so their profit incentive is to get you into their store to look at rigs and then buy the accessories. Who doesn't think that the K3 would draw a crowd? The second dynamic is where Yaesu and Icom are headed. They seem to be invested in the 10K rigs (FTDX9000, IC7800). The Yaesu rig isn't even sold at the stores, you order it at the store and then its made and shipped from Yaesu. Not many (any?) stores can afford to stock these for their sales floor so they do not even get you into the store to buy other stuff. I do not see the ham chain stores pushing these radios much (they don't have any real experience with them unless they own them). So the FT2000, IC-7000, k3 rig price class is their premium rig market. I think they would enjoy having them all stocked. All in all its a worthwhile experiment (and it wouldn't either hurt the Elecraft image nor the buyer). Neal k3nc On 7/30/07, Rick Dettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That first consumer purchase wording is informative - it could indicate that sometime in the future I may be able to buy a new Elecraft product over the counter at HRO and other ham gear stores. I really don't know if Elecraft is looking at the sales outlet possibility seriously, but if it occurs, the warranty now covers it. 73, Don W3FPR = I was thinking that HRO couldn't be happy about the K3 as there will be little reason to buy any other rig. But if they can sell them, that is another matter. I don't know if there is enough markup in the K3 to support second party retail sales. It seems like we are getting alot of radio for the dollar. 73 Rick Dettinger K7MW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP
To the contrary, John. The KDSP2 does several things for you. The obvious cw filtering, additional audio gain, and the Noise Reduction that you only get with a DSP unit. Mine is switched in all the time. Great unit. 73, Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: John Reilly [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 10:19 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP I notice no mention in the Reflector about the DSP module in the K2. Furthermore, I never see a K2 equipped with DSP for sale. Is there a reason that the DSP module is not popular in the K2? - 73, John, W0JFR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP
I agree completely. Wouldn't be without it! 73, Dale WA8SRA Robert Tellefsen wrote: To the contrary, John. The KDSP2 does several things for you. The obvious cw filtering, additional audio gain, and the Noise Reduction that you only get with a DSP unit. Mine is switched in all the time. Great unit. 73, Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: John Reilly [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 10:19 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP I notice no mention in the Reflector about the DSP module in the K2. Furthermore, I never see a K2 equipped with DSP for sale. Is there a reason that the DSP module is not popular in the K2? - 73, John, W0JFR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] task for u? OT
This might be a double post Try that with a 1100 watt radio on 2.450GHz inside a RF cage and you've made a microwave. On 7/30/07, John D'Ausilio [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: pre-debunked, om http://gelfmagazine.com/archives/how_to_cook_an_egg_and_create_a_viral_sensation.php On 7/30/07, Charles Harpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Report results. Debunk or affirm a popular urban legend. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- W2CVZ, Michael -- W2CVZ, Michael ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
Hello All: I ordered a KX1 and it was shipped Priority Mail on 7/23 and have not received it yet. Danged post office! In doing my preliminary research and preparation I have a question: Soldering is important, I think we all agree. The selection of the correct type and size is critical to success. Why isn't a hank of 0.31 dia Kester 44 included with the kit? I know, this would increase cost. But I would gladly pay an additional $3 for a kit to avoid having to buy a $25 roll of Kester. (and only use 1% of it) Anybody remember Heathkit? They were the premier kit maker of their day. Solder was included. Remember the nut starter tool? (I may still even have one!) Not to mention a plastic IF can tweeker. It was a nice touch from the top maker of kits. Its why we all remember them fondly and sorta miss 'em. I'm not trying to be cheap. Just a practical suggestion. I'm not saying Elecraft should supply flush cutters, common tools, and spoon feed us. Just that solder selection is pretty danged important. And isn't it like a component? It stays on the pcb just like all the other parts? For what its worth. 73 Marty / W4MY Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Inquiring minds want to know...
wayne burdick wrote: Not likely anytime in the next 20 years, but our chosen island would still have a lab, high-speed internet, a Radio Shack, and a FedEx store :) Kent K9ZTV wrote: And you guys thought all those K3 components were going to come from some exotic place in silicon valley! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WB3AAL BB#35 on the Appalachian Trail
Hello, Unfortunately I could not make it out on Sunday's FOBB. The thunderstorms started around 06:30 UTC / 2:30 AM around Reading, PA. The lightening was flashing about every 30 seconds with loud claps of thunder. This went on until 09:30 UTC / 5:30 AM. The rain kept coming down until 11:00 UTC / 7:00 AM. At this time I had to go into work for 2 hours. While I was there I checked the weather radar to see how the storms were moving. Unfortunately they were moving very slow and along the Appalachian Trail. The weather started to clear around 16:00 UTC / 12 PM in Reading, PA. I checked the weather radar, unfortunately there were some heavy storms just North of the area I would be on the Appalachian Trail. I did take a drive to the two areas I would be operating from but the trail was wet and muddy, this would make for a very difficult hike. But the thunder in those two areas were still too close for comfort. They thunder claps were still loud even with the storm about a couple of miles North. Just was not worth taking a risk, lightening will travel 7 miles from a storm. Not worth experimenting with being a human lightening rod on top of a mountain with wire. :-) I will be going out sometime on the Appalachian Trail in August 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ K1 - SN 01011 K2 - SN 01392 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP
I have the dsp too. The IF filtering of the K2 is fine so the DSP does not add much in the bandwidth filtering but it adds just that little bit that I want. It's switched on all the time at a reasonable wide bandwidth setting to cut off high freq hiss and low freq noise and qrm. I keep the NR off. Don't like the blurry sound. What I particlarly like is the automatic notch when listening to ssb. FB once you have the settings right. The fun part of the DSP is the playing with the NR- and Notch-settings and listening to the effect (although I have yet to discover the right NR setting that works under most circumstances) Conclusion: The DSP stays! 73 Arie PA3A -Oorspronkelijk bericht- Van: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Namens Dale Boresz Verzonden: maandag 30 juli 2007 21:25 Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] K2 and DSP I agree completely. Wouldn't be without it! 73, Dale WA8SRA R ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
Marty, First of all, I believe .031 solder is too large a diameter for use on Elecraft products, especially the KX1. I use .015 with great success, and I do not recommend a larger solder than .020 for the KX1. The reason is that with the large diameter solder, there is not great control over the amount of solder applied - by the time the solder is molten, there is already too much on the connection. Just enough solder to fill the plated thru hole is adequate, although I like to see a very small fillet of solder with the edges of the solder tapering down to zero thickness on both the solder pad and the component lead to be certain everything has received adequate heat during the soldering process. See the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website if you have any questions about what I am describing. Also, the 44 flux is a highly activated flux, there also seems to be a lot of flux residue when using it for soldering. The Kester 285 mildly activated flux is much better on untarnished components because it leaves the board cleaner - save the highly activated solder for working with components that have acquired a bit of corrosion and need the higher activity. OK, so you have some Kester 44 .031 solder that you would like to use on your KX1 - fine, use it, but be aware of the cautions about the amount of solder. If you find too much is applied, use solder wick to remove some of it. OTOH, If you are buying solder for the KX1, I recommend the Kester 285 in a .015 diameter (Multi-core is a great solder, but may be difficult to obtain). Many areas of the KX1 are quite dense with components and more care with soldering is required than for most of the other Elecraft kits. That does not answer the question of why Elecraft does not include solder with the kits like Heathkit used to do - I can't answer that, but I can offer some cautions based on my experiences repairing the KX1 - some builders have trouble because of inadequate heat when soldering (700 to 750 deg F is the best) and the application of too much solder are often encountered problems here. I have 'fixed' several KX1s by simply removing the excess solder and reheating the connections - that process takes about 2 hours to complete, so you figure the cost of a 'repair' caused by sloppy soldering - good solder is cheap by comparison. 73, Don W3FPR Marty Young wrote: Hello All: I ordered a KX1 and it was shipped Priority Mail on 7/23 and have not received it yet. Danged post office! In doing my preliminary research and preparation I have a question: Soldering is important, I think we all agree. The selection of the correct type and size is critical to success. Why isn't a hank of 0.31 dia Kester 44 included with the kit? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Fwd: Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
Please allow me to make a correction before I get any more email... I meant 0.031 dia solder, not 0.31, slip of the decimal point. To those who disagree with my arbitrary selection of Kester 44 0.031, it is what Elecraft recommends, and that really wasn't the point of my post. After the opinions and corrections I have received, people take this pretty personally. Maybe now I understand why Elecraft doesn't include solder with their kits :-) 73 Marty / W4MY --- Marty Young [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:17:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Marty Young [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Just ordered a KX1, and have a question To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Hello All: I ordered a KX1 and it was shipped Priority Mail on 7/23 and have not received it yet. Danged post office! In doing my preliminary research and preparation I have a question: Soldering is important, I think we all agree. The selection of the correct type and size is critical to success. Why isn't a hank of 0.31 dia Kester 44 included with the kit? I know, this would increase cost. But I would gladly pay an additional $3 for a kit to avoid having to buy a $25 roll of Kester. (and only use 1% of it) Anybody remember Heathkit? They were the premier kit maker of their day. Solder was included. Remember the nut starter tool? (I may still even have one!) Not to mention a plastic IF can tweeker. It was a nice touch from the top maker of kits. Its why we all remember them fondly and sorta miss 'em. I'm not trying to be cheap. Just a practical suggestion. I'm not saying Elecraft should supply flush cutters, common tools, and spoon feed us. Just that solder selection is pretty danged important. And isn't it like a component? It stays on the pcb just like all the other parts? For what its worth. 73 Marty / W4MY Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us. http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K6DGW - Flight of the Bumblebees
Total QSO's: 14 Bumblebee QSO's: 8 Score: you mean we're keeping score? RIG: KX1 #1048 ANT: 31' wire w/ 17' counterpoise PWR: solar panel feeding 7Ah gel cell QTH: Fresno Dome, Madera County, CA grid DM07fk, 7,000 ft AMSL WX: Clear, sunny, light breeze, about 80F OPR TIME: 3h CONDX: worse than last year Last year was my first time as a Bee. I wanted to operate from a high QTH near our vacation cabin south of Yosemite, but we had company with us. So I walked all of 30 yards down the yard to where I could reach our big cedar tree and threw a wire up. I didn't do very well. We're in a valley (they don't call the area Cedar Valley for nothing), so we have about -1000' HAAT in pretty much every direction except south. Post-contest reports indicated that my signal was getting out as far as AZ, but the responses weren't making it in... I was determined to find a better place this year :-) When my patient XYL heard about my plans to operate from Fresno Dome (about 7000' in southern Yosemite), she allowed as how it would be nice to make it a picnic. So we packed for a somewhat higher comfort level than I would have myself (i.e., we took camp chairs and a cooler of adult beverages and sandwiches!) and headed out at our usual Sunday pace. It's a 45 minute drive up rutted Forest Service roads, followed by an easy 15 minute hike. We arrived at the trailhead just before 11am (1800z), an hour after the contest started. It was about 20 degF cooler than at our cabin, which was a welcome change. A few tosses got my 31' wire high enough into a Jeffrey pine. I set up in the sun so the solar panel had something to work with, dug out my earphones and hooked up the KX1's paddle. Quickly heard and worked 3 or 4 other /BB stations on 20 ... and then all I heard was those four stations! Well, I heard them working other people, but I couldn't hear who they were working. I did hear one KL7, but so faintly that I never got the complete call, and he certainly didn't hear me. I heard Randy K7TQ well, but he didn't hear me, either. The second hour was almost a complete goose-egg. I tried setting up the PAC-12. It gave me a couple dB better receive, but wasn't radiating at all - the ground there is sandy and dry where it isn't rock, and that's pretty much the performance I expected. I really have to make up some tuned radials for that thing. I moved my chair to reorient the wire by 90 degrees and got a few more dB signal (which meant that I was getting about S3 signals now!) and finally worked NG7C. Time to switch to 40m. Got a run of 5 contacts, wow, this is getting exciting! But that was about all... Total of 14 Qs, 8 BBs, 5 states. Better than last year's 12 Qs in worse conditions, so I guess that's progress. It was a beautiful QTH with nice views of the Central Valley, but blocked to the north and somewhat to the east ... I'll try somewhere else next year. And it's time to go back to experimenting with other wire antennas, like a W3EDP or OCF dipole. I think they're a little more fussy to set up (I have to get better at throwing, too) but should give better results! 73 de chris K6DBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Keying contacts - Clairification
Keys almost universally would have silver contacts. Silver is one metal whose oxide is conductive. The contact area is a high stress point of pressure, Gold is a soft metal and actually can develop films that inhibit good conduction, unless the contact wipes so as to be self cleaning. Bronze is not as yellow as gold, visually. Bronze is not suited to switch contacts. Brass is sometimes used as cheap switch contacts, but alloys are often what you see that have a yellow color. Brass lends itself to having the silver contact welded or riveted to the brass base piece. The war surplus J38 keys were an example of brass conductors for the electrical paths to the contacts and a harder metal for the contact points. -Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
David: You have to draw the line somewhere. I realize this. My thesis was to draw it a little further north to include solder, thats all. Strictly in the vein of nice touch department. Your soldering iron, lamp and hand tools are not part of the kit. Solder is. That's where I'm coming from. Maybe its kinda grey (pun intended). Elecraft made its decision on how thy wanted to handle this, and that's their perogitive. Maybe half would use it, half would not. I would, you wouldn't. There, that proves it! To Elecraft marketing folks: I'd appreciate some solder. FWIW 73 Marty / W4MY --- David King [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Personally I had no problem buying the roll of Kester for my K2 project, and I've used a goodly chunk of it already...and have several other projects under way it's being used on. In fact, I was glad I bought a full roll...so I don't have to worry about ordering another right away! But then, if the K2 kit had included the $125 soldering station I bought, the magnifying ring light, the board holder, electrostatic soldering mat/wrist band and the desoldering iron maybe my XYL wouldn't roll her eyes every time I talk about how much I saved by building the radio instead of buying one already built! And, she sometimes subtly brings up things like the tower now on the side of the house, the rental of a hammer drill to punch a hole into the basement for the antenna wiresetc. etc. etc. David King KE7EKA Marty Young wrote: Hello All: I ordered a KX1 and it was shipped Priority Mail on 7/23 and have not received it yet. Danged post office! In doing my preliminary research and preparation I have a question: Soldering is important, I think we all agree. The selection of the correct type and size is critical to success. Why isn't a hank of 0.31 dia Kester 44 included with the kit? I know, this would increase cost. But I would gladly pay an additional $3 for a kit to avoid having to buy a $25 roll of Kester. (and only use 1% of it) Anybody remember Heathkit? They were the premier kit maker of their day. Solder was included. Remember the nut starter tool? (I may still even have one!) Not to mention a plastic IF can tweeker. It was a nice touch from the top maker of kits. Its why we all remember them fondly and sorta miss 'em. I'm not trying to be cheap. Just a practical suggestion. I'm not saying Elecraft should supply flush cutters, common tools, and spoon feed us. Just that solder selection is pretty danged important. And isn't it like a component? It stays on the pcb just like all the other parts? For what its worth. 73 Marty / W4MY Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mailp=summer+activities+for+kidscs=bz ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Just purchased a loaded K2
Just got the K2 in and it is great. Have a K1 but the K2 is tops. It is fully loaded with all option except the 100 watt. I got the Heil hand mic and also a mint Heil/Elecraft desk mic. Does anyone know what the desk mic sold for new? What a receiver Had to share my happiness. WOW!!! 72/73 Gene N0MQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Keying contacts - Clairification
My Bencher BY-2 paddle has gold-plated silver contacts. The contacts don't wipe. The paddle is 21 years old. The contacts have *never* been cleaned, and the paddle works great. 73, - Rob W7GH On Mon, 30 Jul 2007 15:09:55 -0700, Stuart Rohre [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The contact area is a high stress point of pressure, Gold is a soft metal and actually can develop films that inhibit good conduction, unless the contact wipes so as to be self cleaning. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Fwd: Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
Hi, Marty: It sounds like you've gotten some pretty impolite off-reflector answers. In my experience, people who need to speak privately often have little worthwhile to say and they fear being criticized themselves. That's why they reply privately. To me, it's like someone at the local Ham club meeting grabbing a fellow who asks a question and dragging him outside to berate him in private for being stupid and then telling him what to do out of hearing of the others. Thank you for speaking up publicly. The only way to stop that behavior is to confront it, then hit the delete key. (Wonderful invention, that delete key, but it can take practice not let rudeness dwell on your thoughts. I try to remember that, frequently, the rudeness is unintentional, like someone stepping on my toe at a club meeting, even if they don't apologize.) I've been involved in writing some of the Elecraft assembly manuals, including the KX1 manual. We've discussed the issue of solder a number of times. Because the choice is rather personal, most builders have plenty of opportunities to need solder in the future, and some solder chemistries are avoided in some parts of the world, it's been decided to leave getting solder up to the builder. The Kester mentioned in the KX1 manual is *a* recommended type. That's why the text says ...or equivalent. There's more about solder recommendations on the following page under Soldering and Desoldering. We'd rather identify something that you *must* avoid rather than be too specific about what to use so, whenever possible, you can use what you have on hand. When it comes to soldering, the smaller components and smaller circuit traces on many boards, such as the KX1 uses, mean that using the larger solder most of us have acquired over the years is very, very difficult. It's far too easy to get too much solder on the joint producing blobby soldering and bridges to adjacent pads. That's why the smaller diameter solder and small size soldering tip are strongly recommended. Small parts and small circuit traces are here to stay, so an investment in a spool of small diameter solder and proper iron should serve you for many years to come. Elecraft tries to avoid procedures that require truly specialized tools. We list the tools you'll need, trying to stay with what most builders will have in their basic kit. Where a special tool is needed - a special alignment tool or wrench with particular dimensions such as used in the K2 kit, for example - it *is* included in the kit. The KX1 does not require any such tools. If you have what's on the tool list in the manual, you should be in excellent shape to assemble the kit. And if you have any questions planning for the build, building the kit, testing and aligning the finished unit or using it on the air, please ask them here on the reflector. You can be sure to get some good advice publicly on the reflector. That's the beauty of the system: there's always a peer review of every post by all the others. If I make a mistake, others will jump in and correct it. If those folks correcting you had done it publicly, you wouldn't have gotten a bunch of such corrections! Answering off the reflector simply wastes time and bandwidth! Bottom line: Elecraft wants every builder to be successful and have fun. That's why this reflector is here. Welcome aboard! And even if you don't have any issues or questions to bring to the reflector, be sure to come back to talk about your experiences with your KX1! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marty Young Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 2:31 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: Just ordered a KX1, and have a question Please allow me to make a correction before I get any more email... I meant 0.031 dia solder, not 0.31, slip of the decimal point. To those who disagree with my arbitrary selection of Kester 44 0.031, it is what Elecraft recommends, and that really wasn't the point of my post. After the opinions and corrections I have received, people take this pretty personally. Maybe now I understand why Elecraft doesn't include solder with their kits :-) 73 Marty / W4MY --- Marty Young [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 13:17:06 -0700 (PDT) From: Marty Young [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Just ordered a KX1, and have a question To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Hello All: I ordered a KX1 and it was shipped Priority Mail on 7/23 and have not received it yet. Danged post office! In doing my preliminary research and preparation I have a question: Soldering is important, I think we all agree. The selection of the correct type and size is critical to success. Why isn't a hank of 0.31 dia Kester 44 included with the kit? I know, this would increase cost. But I would gladly pay an additional $3 for a kit to avoid having to buy a $25 roll of Kester. (and only use 1% of it) Anybody remember
[Elecraft] BS7H
BS7H card was in the mail box when I went down to the road a few minutes ago!!! See what a K2/100 can do!! I almost never operate on my narrowest filter [180 Hz], but had to for BS7H because of the lids and cops on their frequency. Wonder who I worked ... 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7 - www.cqp.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Problem setting AGV Threshhold
Hi All, I am building my K2 and have reached the initial checkout steps before building the receiver. On page 48 of my manual (Rev G if that matters) the instructions say to Adjust R1 for a reading of 3.80 On my K2 the way it is right now the range of voltages I get by changing R1 is 2.1-3.28Vdc. Hmmm? I looked at the schematic on the way to work today (I'm still there) and it doesn't look like there are that many variables here. It is a simple voltage divider of the 8v regulated voltage to ground as far as I can see and it seems like the max voltage should be 1/2 of 8V when R1 is completely shorted out. I haven't checked the 8V source cause I haven't been back home. Maybe extra useless info - I don't know how the internal volt meter works but it is reading out correctly (that is I get the same reading as my DMM where I have made identical measurements) so I assume that the 5V regulator is working right. Any thoughts on which points to check? Is my reading of the schematic too simplistic? 73, Matthew Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us. http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
Ron...I replied privately to Marty with my comments because I didn't think I needed to clutter up the entire reflector with my comments. As to the additional stuff I mentioned I purchased for my K2 project...I was merely noting my self-justifications didn't fly with my wife...just like they don't to a whole lot of other hams that have posted on this listI thought it was a bit of Ham humor...not beating someone up. As mine was the only response he posted to the full list, it would appear I'm being included in the impolite off-reflector answers group you're castigating, and I don't appreciate that label. I took full responsibility for my opinion and I provided my name and call. Your comments imply I went on a rude rant. I respectfully disagree. And, as for your comments...I too have a delete key. And I just used it. David King KE7EKA Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Hi, Marty: It sounds like you've gotten some pretty impolite off-reflector answers. In my experience, people who need to speak privately often have little worthwhile to say and they fear being criticized themselves. That's why they reply privately. To me, it's like someone at the local Ham club meeting grabbing a fellow who asks a question and dragging him outside to berate him in private for being stupid and then telling him what to do out of hearing of the others. Thank you for speaking up publicly. The only way to stop that behavior is to confront it, then hit the delete key. (Wonderful invention, that delete key, but it can take practice not let rudeness dwell on your thoughts. I try to remember that, frequently, the rudeness is unintentional, like someone stepping on my toe at a club meeting, even if they don't apologize.) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Problem setting AGV Threshhold
Matthew, You reading of the schematic is correct - the voltage at U2 pin 5 is the result of a voltage divider network - nothing less, nothing more. If you have a problem here, one or more of the resistors involved is wrong, or the voltage from the 8 volt regulator is not correct. The RF Gain control is one of those resistors, so be certain it is set to the full clockwise position. 73, Don W3FPR Matthew Denson wrote: Hi All, I am building my K2 and have reached the initial checkout steps before building the receiver. On page 48 of my manual (Rev G if that matters) the instructions say to Adjust R1 for a reading of 3.80 On my K2 the way it is right now the range of voltages I get by changing R1 is 2.1-3.28Vdc. Hmmm? I looked at the schematic on the way to work today (I'm still there) and it doesn't look like there are that many variables here. It is a simple voltage divider of the 8v regulated voltage to ground as far as I can see and it seems like the max voltage should be 1/2 of 8V when R1 is completely shorted out. I haven't checked the 8V source cause I haven't been back home. Maybe extra useless info - I don't know how the internal volt meter works but it is reading out correctly (that is I get the same reading as my DMM where I have made identical measurements) so I assume that the 5V regulator is working right. Any thoughts on which points to check? Is my reading of the schematic too simplistic? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Fwd: Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
David, my sincere apologies for any offense you've read in my post. I was not responding to anything you've written here. I was only responding to Marty's comment, After the opinions and corrections I have received, people take this pretty personally. It's a classic example of how offense can be given without meaning to at all. I do apologize. For the record, I never respond with an opinion about whether someone's post to the reflector is appropriate, and I never resort to any sort of personal attack, publicly or privately. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: David King [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 4:02 PM To: Ron D'Eau Claire Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Just ordered a KX1, and have a question Ron...I replied privately to Marty with my comments because I didn't think I needed to clutter up the entire reflector with my comments. As to the additional stuff I mentioned I purchased for my K2 project...I was merely noting my self-justifications didn't fly with my wife...just like they don't to a whole lot of other hams that have posted on this listI thought it was a bit of Ham humor...not beating someone up. As mine was the only response he posted to the full list, it would appear I'm being included in the impolite off-reflector answers group you're castigating, and I don't appreciate that label. I took full responsibility for my opinion and I provided my name and call. Your comments imply I went on a rude rant. I respectfully disagree. And, as for your comments...I too have a delete key. And I just used it. David King KE7EKA Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Hi, Marty: It sounds like you've gotten some pretty impolite off-reflector answers. In my experience, people who need to speak privately often have little worthwhile to say and they fear being criticized themselves. That's why they reply privately. To me, it's like someone at the local Ham club meeting grabbing a fellow who asks a question and dragging him outside to berate him in private for being stupid and then telling him what to do out of hearing of the others. Thank you for speaking up publicly. The only way to stop that behavior is to confront it, then hit the delete key. (Wonderful invention, that delete key, but it can take practice not let rudeness dwell on your thoughts. I try to remember that, frequently, the rudeness is unintentional, like someone stepping on my toe at a club meeting, even if they don't apologize.) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
Hi Marty, At the time I built a Heathkit DX 20 in 1957, and when several friends built Heathkits in that era up to 1960, I don't remember any of us getting solder with our Heathkit. I bought Ersin Multicore solder and used that for all my kit building, and still prefer it after some 44 years of building research electronics. Solder is like beer and cars. Folks have their own preferences if they have built anything at all for awhile. No one size of solder is really adequate for all parts of kit building. For example, you might use a small gauge on parts on a small board, but a heavy gauge solder to make up type UHF Coax plugs. Where do you stop in providing solder? Do you then provide the flush cutting pliers to get folks to uniformly trim their component leads, the needle nose pliers, the soldering iron? (Now there is another personal preference item kind of like personal hunting weapons!) I think Elecraft does exactly what the majority of kits have done since the 1950's. They provide the electronics and the instructions, and the builder provides the tools and solder. Those few kits I have seen with solder had types totally unsuited IMHO, for the job. The type of solder one uses affects how well the finished kit looks. There are some solders that are just adequate, and others that have superiour wetting, and flow characteristics. -Stuart K5KVH - Original Message - From: Marty Young [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 3:17 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Just ordered a KX1, and have a question Hello All: I ordered a KX1 and it was shipped Priority Mail on 7/23 and have not received it yet. Danged post office! In doing my preliminary research and preparation I have a question: Soldering is important, I think we all agree. The selection of the correct type and size is critical to success. Why isn't a hank of 0.31 dia Kester 44 included with the kit? I know, this would increase cost. But I would gladly pay an additional $3 for a kit to avoid having to buy a $25 roll of Kester. (and only use 1% of it) Anybody remember Heathkit? They were the premier kit maker of their day. Solder was included. Remember the nut starter tool? (I may still even have one!) Not to mention a plastic IF can tweeker. It was a nice touch from the top maker of kits. Its why we all remember them fondly and sorta miss 'em. I'm not trying to be cheap. Just a practical suggestion. I'm not saying Elecraft should supply flush cutters, common tools, and spoon feed us. Just that solder selection is pretty danged important. And isn't it like a component? It stays on the pcb just like all the other parts? For what its worth. 73 Marty / W4MY Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles. Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center. http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: West Mountain Radio Plug Play RigBlaster
I've had this about a year, and haven't used it in almost that long (didn't really get into using digital modes). It worked fine, and is in great shape. West Mountain Radio RigBlaster, like new. This is the data plug version, with USB computer connection. It will run any data mode, as well as CAT if your rig allows it. It includes the CAT cable for Yaesu FT-100, -100D, -817, -857(D) and -897(D). Other cables are available from WMR, or you can make your own (the RigBlaster CAT connection is just a 1/8 stereo plug; data plug is hard-wired). For radio compatibility, see http://westmountainradio.com/pnpradiomatrix.htm For general information, see http://westmountainradio.com/RIGblaster.htm $110 + $13 for CAT cable new, asking $80 including first class shipping. Please contact me off list. 73, Mike KW1ND ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Keying contacts
Fred's bond paper key contact cleaning scheme is the best and most favorable to long life of your key contacts. -Stuart K5KVH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
Man, Oh, Man Don you said it right. I was so ignorant when I got back into soldering, that i was not aware of the different sizes of solder. I had and still have it... the .031 solder.The last kit I had built was a Heath Kit HW12 in the 60s. So to practice some soldering I ordered one of the in-expensive receiver kits from Ramsey. Using the .031 solder I totally destroyed the Pc board! g Now, I have all kinds of rolls of .015 solder and use it for practically everything. Also have some what I think is .022. I have a soldering station and use it at 700 F.degrees. Paul Gates, KD3JF Having 2 cataracts one on each eye I was smart enough to have Jerry McCarthy build my KX1 and later he added the 30/80 module for me. Today I passed the eye test for renewing my drivers license by the skin of my teeth so to speak. The License is good for 5 years so I am sure during that time the cataracts will be big enough so I can have them removed. I have no problem seeing in the daylight and do not drive at night. Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Marty, First of all, I believe .031 solder is too large a diameter for use on Elecraft products, especially the KX1. I use .015 with great success, and I do not recommend a larger solder than .020 for the KX1. The reason is that with the large diameter solder, there is not great control over the amount of solder applied - by the time the solder is molten, there is already too much on the connection. Just enough solder to fill the plated thru hole is adequate, although I like to see a very small fillet of solder with the edges of the solder tapering down to zero thickness on both the solder pad and the component lead to be certain everything has received adequate heat during the soldering process. See the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website if you have any questions about what I am describing. Also, the 44 flux is a highly activated flux, there also seems to be a lot of flux residue when using it for soldering. The Kester 285 mildly activated flux is much better on untarnished components because it leaves the board cleaner - save the highly activated solder for working with components that have acquired a bit of corrosion and need the higher activity. OK, so you have some Kester 44 .031 solder that you would like to use on your KX1 - fine, use it, but be aware of the cautions about the amount of solder. If you find too much is applied, use solder wick to remove some of it. OTOH, If you are buying solder for the KX1, I recommend the Kester 285 in a .015 diameter (Multi-core is a great solder, but may be difficult to obtain). Many areas of the KX1 are quite dense with components and more care with soldering is required than for most of the other Elecraft kits. That does not answer the question of why Elecraft does not include solder with the kits like Heathkit used to do - I can't answer that, but I can offer some cautions based on my experiences repairing the KX1 - some builders have trouble because of inadequate heat when soldering (700 to 750 deg F is the best) and the application of too much solder are often encountered problems here. I have 'fixed' several KX1s by simply removing the excess solder and reheating the connections - that process takes about 2 hours to complete, so you figure the cost of a 'repair' caused by sloppy soldering - good solder is cheap by comparison. 73, Don W3FPR Marty Young wrote: Hello All: I ordered a KX1 and it was shipped Priority Mail on 7/23 and have not received it yet. Danged post office! In doing my preliminary research and preparation I have a question: Soldering is important, I think we all agree. The selection of the correct type and size is critical to success. Why isn't a hank of 0.31 dia Kester 44 included with the kit? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Disconnecting, grounding, lightning, etc..
Here is an eham posting from a friend and RF engineer with Sprint - Mike Higgins K6AER. Mike has helped me with my station and taught classes to many. There is lots more to protecting your house, family and belongings than just disconnecting coax...read on. From Mike Higgins on Eham 3/2006: Well it is that time of the year when postings turn to grounding and lighting protection. So much information has been posted on lightning protection in this fourm you could spend hours going through all the information listed and I would recommend doing so. Use the search engine in eHam and by all means forget the naysayers of grounding. Go to the PolyPhaser site and read their tutorials on lightning protection. Go to Lyncole, Hagar and ICE (Industrial Communications Engineers) and read their tutorials on grounding. There is no short cut to lighting protection. Your whole station and home needs to be addressed as a complete solution. Now if you live in the Northwest you can skip the rest of this article for your chances are very slim you would even see a thunderstorm. For the rest of the county this is an aspect of the hobby we have to deal with. This article is a reader's digest version of what must be done for surge protection and I hope it start you thinking about your home and station. Every other year on average my station gets hit by lightning. This was not a problem when I lived in LA; I had a greater chance of being hit by stray bullets. I live in a very high lightning prone area called the Palmer divide in Colorado. June through August we have thunder storms every day with up to 40,000 strikes a day on average during those months. I am on my 3rd GP-9 antenna at the top of the tower. When a storm has gone by and I find what's left of a GP-9 in toasted shards all over the ranch, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to know what happened. I have lost no base station equipment to a lightning strikes but I have spent considerable time putting in proper grounding and surge protection on my station. As for the tower top fiberglass omni sticks, they're sacrificial and that just the cost of doing business where I live. Proper grounding and surge protection works and works very well. The key is setting up low resistance grounding and the proper installation of grounding material. Disconnecting you equipment and putting it into a Faraday Shield box will work well but if you live in an area like my QTH you would be off the air for 3-4 months every year. Some hams like my self have more than one radio and going this route would mean my hobby is station assembly. I can't speak for most hams but after doing that a few times it looses its novelty. The cell phone industry looses less then 20 sites a year to lightning. There are approximately 500,000 sites between Verizon, Nextel, Cingular, Sprint and others. Generally it is because the DSL line is struck and not the radio equipment. In the cell phone industry we ground at the top of the tower, base of the tower and where the cable goes into the facility. The facility has a ground halo inside and the all equipment is grounded to NEC code. Surge protectors are connected for all incoming and outgoing lines at the ground demarcation point. Site ground resistance is generally below 3 ohms. Four 20 foot deep ground rods is a grounding minimum. The AC entry panel has surge protectors (95% of all lightning damage comes in through the AC panel) and most importantly all the facility grounding is bonded together. Power lines take by far the greatest hits and the pole flash-over-rods pass any surges below 10,000 volts. That still leaves a lot voltage coming down the power line. The primary and secondary portion of the pole transformer can arc over and your home is next in line. Your home AC panel should have a surge protectors connected to the panel. You worry about your ham equipment but what about your expensive entertainment and appliances not to mention the possibility of fire. You can protect your home and panel for under $100. Intermatic makes the Panel Gard model number IG1240RC surge protector for $60 not including the two additional circuit breakers. This unit has LED's to indicate the units status and wither you have taken a power surge. Installation is just three wires into the panel. Did I mention lightning rods for the roof? Lightning is fickle and might miss your gorgeous tower and strike through the roof to the electrical wiring in the ceiling. The ground return in your home wiring connects to the master ground in your AC panel. Remember a lighting discharge is looking for the lowest impedance path to ground, i.e. earth. If your live in a highly lightning prone areas like Colorado, Florida and much of the mid west, lighting rods are a good investment. National Lightning Protection in Denver makes all the necessary material to install your lightning rod system. Their web site is a wealth of
Re: [Elecraft] Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
My experience is different, which is just more evidence to support using the solder you prefer. I routinely build surface mount boards with lots of fine pitch parts (like K3 prototype boards :-) using either 0.031 or 0.025 diameter solder. I never use anything finer. YMMV 73, Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Just ordered a KX1, and have a question
Lyle Johnson wrote: My experience is different, which is just more evidence to support using the solder you prefer. I routinely build surface mount boards with lots of fine pitch parts (like K3 prototype boards :-) using either 0.031 or 0.025 diameter solder. I never use anything finer. Lyle got it right. My solder, K2, KX1, WM1, is Alpha Solder, 63/37 0.015 ... very fine, very controllable. As he said, YMMV. Bottom line is what works for you. It's an eye-hand-mechanical operation, use what works, avoid the ones they tell you to avoid. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7 - www.cqp.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Disconnecting, grounding, lightning, etc..
Jay... what a wonderful system for grounding you have made ! and your ground resistance is less than 3 ohms... great. When I disconnect my antennas, My ground resistance is zero ohms or infinity, which ever is correct way to say it. Most ground it guys get off on the vast trouble it takes to disconnect things. Why not work on that aspect rather than getting embroilled in expensive commercial standards grounding? In Fla, I had 8 coaxes coming in, 2 rotor, and one remote sw.outside. With remote switches on the window patch panel, I had to unplug one coax, 2 rotor and one remote plug*. Four plugs take maybe 30 seconds to un-do. Switching off my master bench AC took another 5 seconds. In bad storms coming, I also unplugged the master AC from the wall and the shack master RF ground line... taking another 15 seconds. Is 50 seconds too much time? *a little more work coudda put the rotors and remote onto one big Jones plug, reducing the plug number to TWO. Then, I would have been down to about 30 seconds for complete disconnect. 73 Charles Harpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=hmtextlinkjuly07 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] FS: West Mountain Radio Plug Play RigBlaster
The RigBlaster has been sold. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Project Knobs
Hello to everyone in the group from Bonnie Scotland.. I am currently tryin' to source some 2 inch - 2 1/4 inch diameter knobs for a project that will be gettin' undertaken in The near future.. I am in need of 3 sets of 3 (9 knobs in total) I think.. although this may not be case as I progress But better I think to plan ahead.. Can anyone on the list give any details of a supplier, ..or possibly some ideas from a what type of older Radio's in the past might have had this sort of diameter of knobs included..? Think VFO -Tuning Dial sort of diameter.. and you'de near a ball-part figure/size.. Has anyone in the past home-brewed this size and diameter of knob for a past project..? If so, care to share how you Did it..? I've looked around the internet are lots of places, and there just does'nt seem to be anyone out there who stocks This sort of thing, both here in the UK and the US and further afield.. Really would appreciate help or ideas on this one folks.. TIA.. 72's 73's[EMAIL PROTECTED] Andy GM0NWI Elecraft K2 Fully Loaded QRP S/n 01432 Elecraft K2 Fully Loaded QRO S/n 05469 No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.25/926 - Release Date: 29/07/2007 23:14 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
