Re: [Elecraft] Silly Question

[Thom LaCosta]

On Thu, 3 Jan 2008, hank k8dd wrote:



However .. 98% of the people I have heard say Elecraft pronounce it
Lcraft.
And 1% are undecided.
The other 1% are on the Elecraft reflectors.


Wow, this is so much more interesting than delivery of K3's, specs, antennae and 
all the other drivel that gets posted here.


Is Elecraft a corporation, or as mis-pronounced on NPR a co-operation?

Thom,EIEIO
Email, Internet, Electronic Information Officer

www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] Silly Question

[hank k8dd]

However .. 98% of the people I have heard say Elecraft pronounce it
Lcraft.
And 1% are undecided.
The other 1% are on the Elecraft reflectors.

73HankK8DD


Not silly at all - I am certain the folks at Elecraft want everyone to 
get it right :-) .
It is pronounced "Ele" (an in Elegant - soft 2nd 'e') followed by "craft".

73,
Don W3FPR

DW Holtman wrote:
> Hello,
>
> How is "Elecraft" pronounced?
>
> Thank you,
> DW Holtman
> WB7SSN
>
> 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Silly-Question-tp14606692p14610431.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Cabinet Scrape Repair (WAS: K3 #125, My saga after 4 weeks)

[Bill Johnson]

I was a KX1 test builder so I challenge you! :-)  And I still enjoy
taking it apart for one reason or another.


72,

Bill 

K9YEQ
K2 #35, K2 # 5279, KX1 #35, Mini Modules, etc.  



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 6:38 PM
To: 'elecraft'
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Cabinet Scrape Repair (WAS: K3 #125, My saga after 4
weeks)

I have found that a touch with a "permanent" black marker pen does the job
beautifully.

(What? Me scratch my K3? N...) Actually, my K3 has been
assembled and disassembled probably more often than any single unit in
existence:  from fully assembled to fully disassembled at least 20 times,
maybe more, plus absolutely countless partial disassembly operations (it's
half torn down right now - front panel off, etc.) So I have picked up a few
dings on the edges and scraped screws, all of which have responded
beautifully to a touch with the black marker. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

Yes, I found that too, on one screw specifically.
I wonder if I tightened it too much?
Anyway, someday I'll try a drop of matt black enamel in the countersink


On 30/12/07 22:58, "John Buck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> I also noticed that tightening the
> cover screws tends to peel some of the paint in the countersink area 
> for the screw heads.


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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[WILLIS COOKE]

Shaun, it will decrease the efficiency drastically.  A
two meter long 80 meter dipole will be about 10% as
efficient as one 40 meters long at the same height. 
Most texts quote dbi information for a full sized
dipole 100 feet high.  If you put your antenna near
the ground it may not be much more than 1% as
efficient as the full sized antenna at 100 feet.  You
can't cheat the laws of physics, they work the same
even if no body is watching.  There is no substitute
for high and big!

If you are trying to run QRP with 5 or 10 watts then
you will be doing well to work across the street.  In
addition, the antenna you are considering will have an
impedance of only an ohm or two and be almost
impossible to match.

Sorry, nice idea, but it will not work well at all.

Cookie, K5EWJ, BS Physics, PE/EE, 52 years a ham 
--- Shaun Oliver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi all,
> if I were to make a dipole, would coiling it round a
> piece of plastic 
> piping decrease the efficiency of the thing? I
> intend on making one for 
> 40 meters, one for 80 meters, and one for 10 meters.
> I've worked out 
> that1 meter of piping will suffice for each leg of
> each antenna.
> thanks in advance.
> shaun
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[Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[Shaun Oliver]

Hi all,
if I were to make a dipole, would coiling it round a piece of plastic 
piping decrease the efficiency of the thing? I intend on making one for 
40 meters, one for 80 meters, and one for 10 meters. I've worked out 
that1 meter of piping will suffice for each leg of each antenna.

thanks in advance.
shaun
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[Elecraft] peeling paint bluz

[Steve Sacco NN4X]

Doug -

Paint removal is now performed virtually, within the DSP.

After all, "it's only software", and thus, is easy to accomplish.

:-)



73,
Steve NN4X




On 30/12/07 22:58, "John Buck"  sent:

> I also noticed that tightening the
> cover screws tends to peel some of the paint in the countersink area for
> the screw heads.

And other have subsequently commented/noted this too

Is it just me, or wasn't it common practice in the OLDE days to
intentionally remove paint at screw-down points?  I remember sanding
paint off of the inside covers of my some of my equipment, including a
Ten Tec Titan amp which had paint everywhere.

Has something changed or am I misunderstanding what is being said?

Thanks,
de Doug KR2Q




 _._.   _   _.._   [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] Silly Question

[WA6OCP]

Somewhere, on the website as I remember, it notes that it is "Ele" as in
"Elegant".

Neal WA6OCP


DW Holtman wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> How is "Elecraft" pronounced?
> 
> Thank you,
> DW Holtman
> WB7SSN
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> 
> 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Silly-Question-tp14606692p14609368.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Silly Question

[Vic K2VCO]

Tom McCulloch wrote:

That not a silly question at all, I think its a good one.

Is it "Ella" or "Elly"?


I've heard something more like "Ella" out of the mouths of the founders. 
They should know.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] Silly Question

[Tom McCulloch]

That not a silly question at all, I think its a good one.

Is it "Ella" or "Elly"?

I'm a CW guy so I don't get to "hear" it on the air...but it seems that most
of the times I've heard in eyeball qso's its been "Elly".

I have heard the origin of the name is indeed from "Elegant" and "Craft" as
Mike points out.

73/72 de,
Tom WB2QDG (with the New York accent).
k2 1103


- Original Message - 
From: "Mike B" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Silly Question



Hello,

How is "Elecraft" pronounced?


Per their website, like "Elegant" and "Craft."

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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[Elecraft] K3 Cabinet Scrape Repair (WAS: K3 #125, My saga after 4 weeks)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I have found that a touch with a "permanent" black marker pen does the job
beautifully.

(What? Me scratch my K3? N...) Actually, my K3 has been
assembled and disassembled probably more often than any single unit in
existence:  from fully assembled to fully disassembled at least 20 times,
maybe more, plus absolutely countless partial disassembly operations (it's
half torn down right now - front panel off, etc.) So I have picked up a few
dings on the edges and scraped screws, all of which have responded
beautifully to a touch with the black marker. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

Yes, I found that too, on one screw specifically.
I wonder if I tightened it too much?
Anyway, someday I'll try a drop of matt black enamel in the countersink


On 30/12/07 22:58, "John Buck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> I also noticed that tightening the
> cover screws tends to peel some of the paint in the countersink area 
> for the screw heads.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] scanning

[Matthew Zilmer]

If you're on the current firmware, scan should work fine.  I used it a
couple days ago.  

matt, WA6EGJ

On Thu, 03 Jan 2008 20:41:59 +, you wrote:

>Can anyone tell me if its usual for the scan to take a long time before it
>starts (approx 20 - 30 secs) and sometimes just doesn't start at all, but I
>I hold scan, it displays 'STOP' on the VFOb display and then I have to press
>[SCAN] again
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: peeling paint and countersunk screw holes

[Don Wilhelm]

Ken,

The paint is tough - it is a powder coating.  I would say that if the 
inside of the countersink area were scratched by the screw, either the 
screw was overtightened or the screwhead had a slight burr on it.


I really cannnot conceive of a condition where the scraped paint area 
would show with the screw in place - which makes it a non-concern for 
me.  If the scraped area is outside the area covered by the screw, then 
either the screw was inserted improperly or it was tightened enough to 
distort the metal of the enclosure (and that is too much).  The screws 
should be quite snug - not loose, but not beefed down so much as to 
distort the metal (and possibly strip screw threads).


The metal on my K3 shows a little bare paint if I remove the screws - 
and I would expect that just from normal abrasion between the screw head 
and the cover, but with the screws in place, no bare spots are visible.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ken Kopp wrote:

It seems to me that if the smooth surface of the
tapered portion of the screw "scratched" paint
off the screw was over-tightened.  It's "tough"
paint, too!  Epoxy based?

Ditto for the pan heads like are used on the K2.

I don't think this subject relates to paint on the metal-to-metal 
contact areas inside the cabinet.


73! Ken Kopp - K0PP


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Re: [Elecraft] Silly Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Not silly at all - I am certain the folks at Elecraft want everyone to 
get it right :-) .

It is pronounced "Ele" (an in Elegant - soft 2nd 'e') followed by "craft".

73,
Don W3FPR

DW Holtman wrote:

Hello,

How is "Elecraft" pronounced?

Thank you,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN

  

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Re: [Elecraft] Silly Question

[Mike B]

Hello,

How is "Elecraft" pronounced?


Per their website, like "Elegant" and "Craft."

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: peeling paint and countersunk screw holes

[Ken Kopp]

It seems to me that if the smooth surface of the
tapered portion of the screw "scratched" paint
off the screw was over-tightened.  It's "tough"
paint, too!  Epoxy based?

Ditto for the pan heads like are used on the K2.

I don't think this subject relates to paint on the 
metal-to-metal contact areas inside the cabinet.


73! Ken Kopp - K0PP

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[Elecraft] Silly Question

[DW Holtman]

Hello,

How is "Elecraft" pronounced?

Thank you,
DW Holtman
WB7SSN
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[Elecraft] K3: peeling paint and countersunk screw holes

[DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL]

On 30/12/07 22:58, "John Buck"  sent:

> I also noticed that tightening the
> cover screws tends to peel some of the paint in the countersink area for
> the screw heads.

And other have subsequently commented/noted this too

Is it just me, or wasn't it common practice in the OLDE days to
intentionally remove paint at screw-down points?  I remember sanding
paint off of the inside covers of my some of my equipment, including a
Ten Tec Titan amp which had paint everywhere.

Has something changed or am I misunderstanding what is being said?

Thanks,
de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #125, My saga after 4 weeks

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Yes, I found that too, on one screw specifically.
I wonder if I tightened it too much?
Anyway, someday I'll try a drop of matt black enamel in the countersink


On 30/12/07 22:58, "John Buck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:

> I also noticed that tightening the
> cover screws tends to peel some of the paint in the countersink area for
> the screw heads.

-- 
Don't say you don't have enough time. You have exactly the same number of
hours per day that were given to Helen Keller, Pasteur, Michaelangelo,
Mother Teresa, Leonardo da Vinci, Thomas Jefferson, and Albert Einstein.
-H. Jackson Brown, Jr., writer


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[Elecraft] orion agc vs K3

[Koppendorfer Klaus]

i had the chance to do an A/B comparing
between Orion-I and K3 this evening

the om with the orion is an cw-operator and an musican with fine ears.
he came to me because he is not happy with orion on Europe crowding 80meter band
so I searched for orion settings special agc on web and found some statements

I tried all possible settings for agc on orion.. but could not find
a situation where the raugh noise between cw-signals was fine
so the only way was to switch off agc and reduce rf-gain - then we found
a setting where orion sounds near k3 (by the way K2 sounds very fine under 
these conds)

!!! these was seen only on 80meter evening with heavy European qrm !!!

73
oe6kyg

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[Elecraft] PJ7/W6IZT and FJ5KH

[Gregg W6IZT]

My K3 and I will be in Sint Maarten operating as PJ7/W6IZT on 1/6 through
1/8 and 1/11 through 1/13. I will be in St Barth's operating as FJ5KH on 1/9
through 1/11. 80-10 (and 160 from FJ) CW, SSB and RTTY. I hope to work as
many Elecrafters as possible!

73
Gregg
W6IZT


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[Elecraft] [K3] scanning

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Can anyone tell me if its usual for the scan to take a long time before it
starts (approx 20 - 30 secs) and sometimes just doesn't start at all, but I
I hold scan, it displays 'STOP' on the VFOb display and then I have to press
[SCAN] again
-- 
If I were not an atheist, I would believe in a God who would choose to save
people on the basis of the totality of their lives and not the pattern of
their words. I think he would prefer an honest and righteous atheist to a
TV preacher whose every word is God, God, God, and whose every deed is
foul, foul, foul. -Isaac Asimov, scientist and writer (1920-1992)


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[Elecraft] WANT: K3....

[fraz1]

Hey.someone's circumstances may have changed!

I'll take any version/configuration!

Please email me off-line...   fraz1 at bellsouth.net

73 John K4NP

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[Elecraft] test

[fraz1]

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[Elecraft] Wanted XV50

[AD6XY - Mike]

A repost since it has been some time and a few more people have K3s. I am
looking for a used or kit XV50 to modify for our European 70MHz band.

Mike
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Wanted-XV50-tp14603899p14603899.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Will Build or Complete your Elecraft

[Alan D. Wilcox]

Hello,

I'm available again to start another Elecraft kit ...
either a new kit, or one you might have already started
and perhaps had second thoughts or didn't have the time
to finish.

I also do repair and tuneups.

If you plan to sell your rig, I can do a tuneup and
inspection for you before you sell.

You've probably seen me on the Builder-for-Hire site
http://www.elecraft.com/k2_builders.htm. You can visit
my home page at http://wilcoxengineering.com/ for more
information.

73, Alan, W3DVX

570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/6768 ... for Client Comments
Williamsport, PA 17701

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 NB indicator flasjing

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

I believe this indicates that you have set the H/W NB threshold or width 
to too high of a value for your current noise or signal levels, which 
has the noise blanker activated a majority of the time. This will 
usually cause an unacceptable amount of intermodulation from adjacent 
signals.


Reduce the threshold or width setting to eliminate the flashing.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ
---
David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

You know, this thread is all well and good, but no-one has yet answered the
original question :)

Which is:

  

I might have missed this in the manual, but when I change the NB IF width
value, I can get to a point where the NB flashes - what does this indicate?
  


  

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[Elecraft] [K3] #00166 Arrived

[Harrison F. Hooker]

My factory assembled K3/100 arrived in Cleveland, OH Monday 12.312007.

 

Was ordered May 01, 2007 with 50% deposit.

 

Superb!

 

73, Harrison  W8YMO

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Re: [Elecraft] Speed of Dark (Was K3 NB indicator flashing)

[David Cutter]

I can't see one, perhaps someone left it switched on...

David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: "Robert Brigham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Speed of Dark (Was K3 NB indicator flashing)



I think I remember seeing one in a Sharper Image store
next to a stack of 'Portable Holes'... ;-)


P.S. S

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Where can I buy a darkness torch, like I used to
read in the comics of the 50's ?

David
G3UNA

> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - modes and band/freq

[G4ILO]

M0XDF wrote:
> 
> I also thought Simon and Julian  - both if whom have written PC software,
> may be able to shed some light on this?
> 
In my own software I have never attempted to set the mode of the K2 based on
frequency or anything stored by the software. So I have not encountered
this. If I change band, the K2 sends back the new frequency and also the
mode it is now in, and the software records this. No conflict.

I do seem to recall that MixW, which does have the facility to set the mode
according to the frequency being entered, tends to fight with the K2's own
band/mode memory when its DXCluster window is used. Clearly the scope for
conflict exists. It would be better if the radio did not try to change the
mode after changing band if used with software that tries to do this.
Otherwise the software could probably work around this by changing the
frequency, waiting for the radio to report back the mode, and then (if
necessary) sending a mode change.

-
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K3---modes-and-band-freq-tp14580396p14600728.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 crystal grounding

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Carl,

FWIW when building crystal filters I have found that soldering the grounding 
wires to the bottom of the cans provides better isolation between crystals 
than to the top of the cans IF there is proper shielding in place 'below 
deck' and the crystals are laid out side by side in a straight line. If 
there is no shielding in place 'below deck' and if the filter crystals are 
not placed in a straight line there might not be any improvement gained by 
tacking to the bottom vs the top, since the crystal to crystal unwanted 
coupling could well be less than the unwanted coupling taking place 
elsewhere in or around the filter. The use a single wire and one ground 
connection to ground two or more crystal cans should be avoided if at all 
possible.


IMHO I would leave your K1's filter crystal grounds as they are to avoid 
reheating the crystal cans.


In my K2 I have the KSB2 installed and I did tack separate ground wires to 
the bottom of the crystal cans when building it, but the leakage around the 
filter masked any improvement in my case..


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


WA7CS wrote on Thursday, January 03, 2008 3:33 PM


I'm currently building the K1.

When I built a K2 a few yers ago, there was an errata sheet or a builder
alert, etc. advising that crystal grounding should be done near the bottom
of the crystal can as opposed to the top of the can.

I can't seem to find similar advice for the K1.

I've already installed all of the crystals with the ground wire soldered 
to
the top of the cans.  I'm considering going back and tacking the ground 
wire

to the sides/bottom of the crystal cans.

Also, in the K2, I seem to recall that all of the crystals were grounded
together with a wire along the top - no similar instruction for the K1.

Should I do this, or is any potential benefit not worth the effort/risk?


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Re: [Elecraft] Speed of Dark (Was K3 NB indicator flashing)

[Robert Brigham]

I think I remember seeing one in a Sharper Image store
next to a stack of 'Portable Holes'... ;-)


P.S. S

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Where can I buy a darkness torch, like I used to
> read in the comics of the 50's ?
> 
> David
> G3UNA
> 
> > 
> > From: Robert Mccormack <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Date: 2008/01/03 Thu AM 01:13:42 GMT
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3 NB indicator flasjing
> > 
> > Light is merely darkness visible.
> > 73 Ken ZL1AIH



  

Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
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[Elecraft] FS - Hakko 808

[Greg Storms]

Have a Hakko 808  FS. Has been seldom used.  Asking $120.  Reply off list.

Thanks,

Greg
KD7SRC
K-2 #3434

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Re: [Elecraft]K2 Scan not staying on freq long enough

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Arthur,

The scan function on my K2 is not at all useful , it will not stop scanning 
and hold unless a signal is very strong, about S 7 to S 8, and if it does 
hold the 'hold time' is only a few seconds. One reason for missing weaker 
signals that I can think of is that the scan rate in my K2 is much too high, 
so even with a 2.1kHz IF filter weaker signals are missed. I searched the 
manual some time ago to see if the scan rate can be lowered, but no luck


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD.

Arthur Gunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote on Thursday, January 03, 2008 2:37 AM


Scanning still provides disappointing results.

Instead of staying on a signal for about 25 seconds, my K2 stays on a
signal for a random 3 to 18 seconds (usually less than 5 seconds). These
CW stations heard by scanning are often very strong and over 15 wpm with
no breaks in transmission expected. The random nature of the pause time
with good signals is also a surprise.

I setup the scanning with DSP on and off with no difference in results.
The scan rate was also varied with no differences observed. Squelch
level was also varied with no differences observed.

Does the procedure you have followed give the 25 second result described
in the manual (F or G version)? Any ideas of why the K2 #6155 with 2.04P
firmware might act this way? Wayne wrote a reference email long ago on
the topic that would be nice to replicate.

Any good or similar experiences?

Any ideas of something else to adjust?

73
--
Arthur Gunn VE9BP


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[Elecraft] K1 crystal grounding

[WA7CS]

I'm currently building the K1.

When I built a K2 a few yers ago, there was an errata sheet or a builder
alert, etc. advising that crystal grounding should be done near the bottom
of the crystal can as opposed to the top of the can.

I can't seem to find similar advice for the K1.

I've already installed all of the crystals with the ground wire soldered to
the top of the cans.  I'm considering going back and tacking the ground wire
to the sides/bottom of the crystal cans.

Also, in the K2, I seem to recall that all of the crystals were grounded
together with a wire along the top - no similar instruction for the K1.

Should I do this, or is any potential benefit not worth the effort/risk?

Carl

WA7CS
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K1-crystal-grounding-tp14599063p14599063.html
Sent from the K1 mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 - modes and band/freq

[Dan Barker]

Just change the frequency first, and then set the desired mode. The radio
(whatever it's make or logic) will do what the programmer (operator) wants.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456


Kenwood protocol predates the per-band memories that modern radios have, I.e
the radio saves the mode and frequency you were last on, on each band.
If you send a mode, does the radio then have to wait X milliseconds before
acting on it to see if there is a frequency change coming next that also
will change the band ? 
How long should the radio wait?  
How long should X be? Kenwood have never defined it any place..  
Problem with this is that doing it this way slows down considerably the
speed at which the radio can respond to commands, not a good thing if the
application is doing more than simple logging or QSying.


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Appropriate subject lines, was: Re: [Elecraft] k3-broadcast band reception

[Bill Coleman N2BC]

It would be quite helpful if the subject line matched the subject.   Even 
more helpful if this discussion were taken somewhere more appropriate.


Feeling grumpy this morning.

HNY  Bill  N2BC


- Original Message - 
From: "G4ILO" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 6:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3-broadcast band reception





G4ILO wrote:


You could be on to something. Perhaps a different posting method is used
if you use Firefox (as I do) instead of Internet Explorer. It might also
have to do with whether you tick the "Message is in HTML Format" box,
which I have just done, as an experiment.


Well, that looked OK when viewed in the MARC archives. Let's try posting
using Internet Explorer to see if that is the culprit. The curious thing 
was
the message in question didn't appear to have the "sent from nabble" 
footer.

That's why I thought it didn't come from here.

-
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
--
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/k3-broadcast-band-reception-tp14568809p14595623.html

Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 NB indicator flasjing

[G3SJJ]

We are all a bit confused about your name, Oliver



You know, this thread is all well and good, but no-one has yet answered the
original question :)

Which is:

  

I might have missed this in the manual, but when I change the NB IF width
value, I can get to a point where the NB flashes - what does this indicate?
  


  

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 NB indicator flasjing

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

You know, this thread is all well and good, but no-one has yet answered the
original question :)

Which is:

>> I might have missed this in the manual, but when I change the NB IF width
>> value, I can get to a point where the NB flashes - what does this indicate?

-- 
Many ideas grow better when transplanted into another mind than in the one
where they sprang up. -Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr., US Supreme Court Justice
(1841-1935)


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Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 mic hook up

[Mike Harris]

Hi Robert,

Correct, just had the side off #1400 to check.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: "Robert 'RC' Conley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:24 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KSB2 mic hook up


| I'm installing the KSB2 in K2-#6321. I'm using A Kenwood MC-43S Mic
| from my TS 850S.
| It looks like all the pins are wired straight across EXCEPT PINS 5 &6
| 6 WHICH ARE NOT
| JUMPED if I'm reading it right
| RC kc5wa

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 NB indicator flasjing

[d.cutter]

Where can I buy a darkness torch, like I used to read in the comics of the 50's 
?

David
G3UNA

> 
> From: Robert Mccormack <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2008/01/03 Thu AM 01:13:42 GMT
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3 NB indicator flasjing
> 
> Light is merely darkness visible.
> 73 Ken ZL1AIH
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 12:15:06 +
> From: "David Ferrington, M0XDF" 
> Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] NB indicator flashing
> To: elecraft 
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> 
> I might have missed this in the manual, but when I change the NB IF width
> value, I can get to a point where the NB flashes - what does this indicate?
> -- 
> Ok, so what's the speed of Dark?
> 
> 
> ___
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> 

-
Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email
Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam

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[Elecraft] QRP Fox Hunt in Europe

[Toby Deinhardt]

I just saw a message that there are now going to be some foxii hiding
out in Europe:  or 



19:00 - 20:00 UTC on 40m and 80m

07.01.2008DM4EA/p
07.01.2008DL2FI
07.01.2008DM5AA
07.01.2008HA5TI

14.01.2008DF2GN
14.01.2008HA5PP/HA5YPP

11.02.2008OM3WMG

18.02.2008DO2TUX



A bit early for Hounds in North America on 80m but on 40m the east coast
should have a chance, imho.

vy 73 de toby


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Re: [Elecraft] k3-broadcast band reception

[G4ILO]

G4ILO wrote:
> 
> You could be on to something. Perhaps a different posting method is used
> if you use Firefox (as I do) instead of Internet Explorer. It might also
> have to do with whether you tick the "Message is in HTML Format" box,
> which I have just done, as an experiment.
> 
Well, that looked OK when viewed in the MARC archives. Let's try posting
using Internet Explorer to see if that is the culprit. The curious thing was
the message in question didn't appear to have the "sent from nabble" footer.
That's why I thought it didn't come from here.

-
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/k3-broadcast-band-reception-tp14568809p14595623.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] k3-broadcast band reception

[G4ILO]

David Woolley-3 wrote:
> 
>Your headers don't mention JavaMail, so I suspect that is the problem 
> tool, at least for nabble postings.
> 
You could be on to something. Perhaps a different posting method is used if
you use Firefox (as I do) instead of Internet Explorer. It might also have
to do with whether you tick the "Message is in HTML Format" box, which I
have just done, as an experiment.

-
Julian, G4ILO K2 s/n: 392  K3 s/n: ???
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
Zerobeat Ham Forums: www.zerobeat.net/smf
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/k3-broadcast-band-reception-tp14568809p14595582.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY

[Simon Brown (HB9DRV)]

DM780 should work 'as is', the only button you need to press in RTTY mode 
being Reverse.


The UI will be made simpler over the next months.

Simon Brown, HB9DRV

- Original Message - 
From: "David Wilburn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>




I tried the DM780 for RTTY receive on my K2, and there were so many
choices and settings that I was flummoxed.  A friend told me to try
MMTTY and it worked just fine.  I like DM780, and would like to use it
more, anyone know what has to be done to get it to work with RTTY?
Which of the settings I need to choose?


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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY

[David Wilburn]

I tried the DM780 for RTTY receive on my K2, and there were so many
choices and settings that I was flummoxed.  A friend told me to try
MMTTY and it worked just fine.  I like DM780, and would like to use it
more, anyone know what has to be done to get it to work with RTTY?
Which of the settings I need to choose?
-  

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Wed, 2008-01-02 at 20:12 +, Dave G4AON wrote:
> Steve
> 
> I've run MMTTY with direct keying of my K3 using a single transistor 
> interface as per the MMTTY help file, it works well with the K3 running 
> "FSK D" mode.
> 
> More recently I've been using Ham Radio Deluxe with Digital Master 780 
> and had my first PSK31 QSO a few days ago and my first MFSK-16 QSO this 
> evening... I'm using nothing more complicated than a couple of 3.5mm 
> jack plug to jack plug leads between my PC sound card and my K3, with 
> mode "Data A" selected on the K3. Keying is by VOX. For those yet to try 
> data, I cannot recommend HRD/DM780 highly enough, it "works out of the 
> box", while there are far more PSK31 stations than other data modes, the 
> MFSK-16 QSO was completely error free and quite a pleasant surprise 
> compared to PSK31 which is "OK" but certainly nowhere near as few errors 
> as the more advanced modes. DM780 has a good logging feature which can 
> export via ADIF and Cabrillo.
> 
> I note the fans cool the K3 PA pretty quickly, in a typical high power 
> transmission of perhaps a  minute or two, it heats to 50 degrees C from 
> an ambient of 22 or so. Within less than a minute the temperature has 
> cooled to around 30 C and the fans stop. It's very useful being able to 
> see the PA temperature displayed on the K3.
> 
> 73 Dave, G4AON
> K3/100 #80
> =
> 
> I'm new to the digital age and with the new K3 I would like to participate
> in the upcoming RTTY contest. I know that I can use the K3 with the keyer,
> which by the way does work, but I was thinking maybe I would like to try my
> computer. I have a Gateway laptop and was wondering what the group would
> recommend to use the laptop with the K3 for the RTTY contest. Many thanks
> in advance and 73 and Happy New Year. Steve W0SZ.
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Re: [Elecraft] k3-broadcast band reception

[David Woolley]

G4ILO wrote:


I think you're wrong about that, David. The message with the long lines that
provoked this off-topic digression was not posted through Nabble. My post


Then why does it have a nabble message-ID?   Maybe there is more than 
one way of posting using nabble tools and only some do not obey the 
first part of the internet requirement "be correct in what you send; be 
tolerant in what you accept".


  Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Precedence: list
  Subject: [Elecraft] k3-broadcast band reception
  Cc:
  Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 16:34:34 -0800
  To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
  MIME-Version: 1.0


just now through Nabble appears properly wrapped when viewed through
MailMan.


  Your headers don't mention JavaMail, so I suspect that is the problem 
tool, at least for nabble postings.


--
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam,
that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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