[Elecraft] [K3] How is mode remembered

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

I realise the K3 remembers mode per band, does it use any other criteria to
control how it remembers?
-- 
Ideas are like rabbits. You get a couple and learn how to handle them, and
pretty soon you have a dozen.
--John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968)


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RTC - Battery and more

[David Ferrington, M0XDF]

Well, after 22 hours, the last 15 of which, its been off, the K3 RTC has
lost 4 seconds.
That seems rather high and was the same value yesterday for 18 hours, its
possible that the RTC is not losing that much time, but the reading of it is
incorrect in some way. If I can leave it off for 48 hours, I'll see if it
looses 8 seconds.
Very difficult to leave this rig off :)

Do you think a low voltage battery might account for the loss? Seems more
likely it works or doesn't, but I'm just wondering. I'll have to get the
cover off and check.

I confirm it does read the RTC and update the cpu time at power on.

On 25/1/08 11:22, "David Ferrington, M0XDF" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent:
[snip] 
>>> My K3 clock, which I set about 18 hrs ago and the rig has been off for about
>>> the last 12 of those, has lost about 4 seconds.
[snip]
> Yes, that's what I did - 4 secs for an RTC is not good. Are you positive it
> reads time on power up? I'll run more tests over the next few days.
> I'm using NTP to get time and setting my clock to that (with someone reading
> the time as I set it, so good to within a second). I have just set it, lets
> see what it is around this time tommorrow.
-- 
I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am
not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.
- Robert McCloskey, State Department spokesman (attributed)


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RE: [Elecraft] Off Topic Use IC746PRO for a K3 Panadaptor

[Kenneth A. Christiansen]

padded down for the IC-746PRO and if so how much? The other 
problem is how can I make sure I never accidentally transmit 
RF back into the K3 from the IC-746PRO as it does not have a 
receive only antenna jack. 



Use the RX Antenna input on the 746Pro.

My problem is the 746PRO does not have an RX Antenna input.
I still need a safe way to avoid putting RF back into the K3.
Ken W0CZ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] Le me build a K2 for you.

[Alan Price]

I have built more than 170 K2's to date.  Let me build one for you.  You 
receive a new, built radio ready to play.  My prices are reasonable and 
turnaround time is about 3 weeks.  If interested please email me at:

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


73
Alan
W1HYV

_
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star 
power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan___
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[Elecraft] New IC-703+ is Great!

[Edward R. Breneiser]

Hello all,

I tried to purchase a K3 last year, but it wasn't going to happen until?
I then purchased an Icom 703+. This little beauty is just fantastic!
I've been playing with it for about a month now and I really like it. 

Here's what I don't like: 
1.menus (I'm use to them by now)
2.Can't easily connect a paddle with a computer.(change menu on fly)
3.only one antenna connector

Here's what I like:
1.Price: $699
2.size
3.construction is very nice (solid)
4.auto tuner (best I've used to date)
5.internal keyer works great

Overall I really like my 703+, but it's no K3. But, I also bought it off
the self-hi! I plan to use this rig portable not backpacking as it's to
much for that. My KX1 will always go with me on the trail. I sold my K1
and K2 anticipating a purchase of a K3. For now, this won't probably
happen for another year now. I'll wait until the K3 can be purchased off
the self - maybe two years? 

So if anyone needs a portable rig, I would recommend the Icom 703 Plus. 

p.s. Just worked Hawaii from Pennsylvania with the 703+ on 20m CW 5W!   
 703+ receiver sensitivity is just great!

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ
(waiting for my K3)

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6358 Alignment and Test Part 1

[Ken, KA0W]

Tony,
   
  What will power: "haven't worked more than about 2 hours (with breaks) at any 
one sitting" !
   
  Is there some kind of special military training you had that enables you to 
stop working on a radio project after only 2 hours - "HI!"
   
  I still can remember being up for two days at a time putting together my 
Heathkit DX60B and HR10B so I could get on the air.
   
  Will see if my K2/100 tests ok after a few hours of building. It first has to 
get here, maybe late next week. Doubt I would last 2 days of building now, 
would have a soldering pencil burn across my face after falling asleep.
   
  Have fun!
   
  Ken, KA0W
   
   
   
  

Tony Parker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  K2 #6358 just passed all the steps in Alignment and Test Part 1.

No smoke was released and after a brief detour to figure out why
segment 10 of the s-meter wouldn't light (pin 1 of the led array
wasn't soldered!) all tests passed.

Missing pin 1 was a real shock to me since I triple checked my
soldering. Also, I haven't been working when I am tired and haven't
worked more than about 2 hours (with breaks) at any one sitting.

I guess Don's advice to:
1. Check your soldering
2. Check your soldering
3. Check your soldering

wasn't enough for me. It took 4 times!

Tony
ke6g


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RE: [Elecraft] Off Topic Use IC746PRO for a K3 Panadaptor

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Build or buy one of the many "front end saver" type devices. 
Search Google for "Front end saver."  Connect the control 
input to the HSEND line on ACC(2) of the 746Pro.  When properly 
designed and controlled, the FES can disconnect and ground the 
K3 IF Out and switch the 746Pro output to a dummy load or antenna.  

Note however, the 746 Pro should not be capable of transmitting 
when tuned to the K3 IF frequency anyway - it's out of band. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> Kenneth A. Christiansen
> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 7:34 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Off Topic Use IC746PRO for a K3 Panadaptor
> 
> 
> padded down for the IC-746PRO and if so how much? The other 
> > problem is how can I make sure I never accidentally transmit 
> > RF back into the K3 from the IC-746PRO as it does not have a 
> > receive only antenna jack. 
> 
> 
> Use the RX Antenna input on the 746Pro.
> 
> My problem is the 746PRO does not have an RX Antenna input.
> I still need a safe way to avoid putting RF back into the K3.
> Ken W0CZ
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> ___
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> 

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[Elecraft] K2 Aux Bus - DC Bias at 9pin Connector ?

[Curt Milton]

I am still troubleshooting my KAT100, and now I am
wondering if the problem might be the aux bus.  

When the 9-pin connector is attached to the K2, and
the KAT100 is disconnected - should there be 5-6 volts
DC on pin 6 ?  I see voltages on pin 8 and 9, but
nothing on pin 6.  (And yes i verified the cable is ok
on pin 6).  

I had previously checked the DC path from pin 6 back
to the IOC in the K2 - but I hadn't probed this any
further.  

I suspect there are no other users of the Aux Bus
except an ATU (my K2 has only ssb, 160m and kpa100
installed).  

Info appreciated.  


  

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Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6358 Alignment and Test Part 1

[nz0t]

Don't feel bad.  I missed a pin on the main display and had to very carefully
solder it with everything in the way.  And, yes, I checked my soldering -
just not enough!
K2/100 #5703 is still going string after 16 months of hard use!


Tony Parker-2 wrote:
> 
> K2 #6358 just passed all the steps in Alignment and Test Part 1.
> 
> No smoke was released and after a brief detour to figure out why
> segment 10 of the s-meter wouldn't light (pin 1 of the led array
> wasn't soldered!) all tests passed.
> 
> Missing pin 1 was a real shock to me since I triple checked my
> soldering.  Also, I haven't been working when I am tired and haven't
> worked more than about 2 hours (with breaks) at any one sitting.
> 
> I guess Don's advice to:
> 1.  Check your soldering
> 2.  Check your soldering
> 3.  Check your soldering
> 
> wasn't enough for me.  It took 4 times!
> 
> Tony
> ke6g
> 
> 
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View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/K2--6358-Alignment-and-Test-Part-1-tp15101585p15109408.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K3 SN 271 is now alive

[Dave Larson]

Ordered May 10th, arrived Jan 25.  Runs great!

Dave K8AA
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[Elecraft] K2 - K60XV with DEMI 2m Transverter

[Steve Kavanagh]

A local has a current-model Down East Microwave 2m
transverter for sale which I am considering for use
with my K2.  From this forum and relay data sheets it
looks like the transverter will switch fast enough
that it can be used with the K60XV keying output
without a sequencer, with no hot switching of RF.

Has anyone actually tried this combination and if so
how did it work ?

73,
Steve VE3SMA


  Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/

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Re: [Elecraft] L34 on K2 tuning question?

[David Woolley (E.L)]

Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:


To avoid any misunderstanding about my use of the term 'strong', the 
level of the internal spurious signal at 7 MHz in my K2's receiver was 
approximately 10db above the noise floor at the output of the product 
detector when viewed with a suitable spectrum analyzer, with the 


What's the analyzer bandwidth (resolution)?

receiver connected to a 40m reference dipole at 70ft. The background 
noise here on 40m is usually 'below S1' with either dipole or beam, 
storm noise excepted. Receiver IF bandwidth was set to 400 Hz ,which is 
not, of course, the receiver's noise bandwidth because of the actual 
response of the K2's IF filter.


I get -21dB with an analyzer bin width of 10.8Hz, using spectrogram and 
an indoor doublet, consisting of about 20m of wire, but with only about 
10m horizontal.  Note that is 21 dB below the noise in 10.8 Hz, or about 
 37dB below the noise in 400Hz, and I cannot hear it.  I did turn the 
AGC off.


Using a 50 ohm dummy load at about 21 degrees C, I get about +28dB in 
the same bandwidth.  Looking at last month's RadCom article on noise, it 
looks like a quiet 7MHz should generate about 35dB over a 25 degree 
resistor, which would give -7dB in 10.8Hz even in ideal conditions. My
antenna noise, at 49dB over the resistor, is roughly in the middle of 
the range suggested in that article.


Either you are misinterpreting the effective noise bandwidth of the 
analyzer, or you have a faulty K2. The birdy, itself, will have very 
little bandwidth.


--
David Woolley
"The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to 
Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio"

List Guidelines 
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[Elecraft] K3 #272 Build

[Don Rasmussen]

Building K3 #272, the initial impression is that
someone sent you a treasure chest. This box is packed
densely and it just seems like you are taking out the
contents of a shipment box destined for the jewlery
store. 

I've build a lot of computers (the little tool case
comes in handy), and those computer boards can be cool
and complex, but -nothing- compared to K3. 

You start unpacking things and there just seems to be
no end to the small anti-static bags that come out,
each one with a truly impressive part that you can get
your hands all over. ;-)

Yes I have the mat and it's grounded. 

When you start to fitting these pieces parts together,
the physical tolerances are pretty amazing. No waste
in this box whatsoever, and given the slightest amount
of patience, every single part slides together like
butter, then bolts down tight. 

Still building, but must say - it's a gem. 

Back to busy...

de wb8yqj

eMail to Wayne:

On Jan 25, 2008, at 10:05 PM, Don Rasmussen wrote:

The initial impression here Wayne is shock and awe.
The physical construction, quality, and attention to
detail is simply remarkable.

>> Tell your friends  :)

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Aux Bus - DC Bias at 9pin Connector ?

[Don Wilhelm]

Curt,

All options use the Auxbus - your KSB2, the KPA100 and even the KIOC 
chip inside the K2 use th eAUXBUS.  If the K2 is working normally when 
the KAT100 is attached, then the AUXBUS signal is working.


What is the problem with the KAT100?  If it is not recognized in the K2 
menu, then the KAT100 firmware chip is not communicating with the K2 
(yes, it uses the AUXBUS for that).  Be certain all pins of the KAT100 
firmware chip socket are soldered (did you miss soldering pin 1? - that 
often happens).  Connect the cable to the KAT100 (turn power off) and 
check continuity from KAT100 U1 pin 40 to K2 Control Board P4 pin 2 - 
somewhere near 470 ohms is expected.


If all the above is correct, the KAT100 firmware should be communicating 
with the K2.


73,
Don W3FPR


Curt Milton wrote:

I am still troubleshooting my KAT100, and now I am
wondering if the problem might be the aux bus.  


When the 9-pin connector is attached to the K2, and
the KAT100 is disconnected - should there be 5-6 volts
DC on pin 6 ?  I see voltages on pin 8 and 9, but
nothing on pin 6.  (And yes i verified the cable is ok
on pin 6).  


I had previously checked the DC path from pin 6 back
to the IOC in the K2 - but I hadn't probed this any
further.  


I suspect there are no other users of the Aux Bus
except an ATU (my K2 has only ssb, 160m and kpa100
installed).  

Info appreciated.  



  

Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

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RE: [Elecraft] Covers for your Elecraft rigs

[Dick Dievendorff]

I'd like to echo this.  I received covers for my K1, K2, and K3, all in
different colors.  They're so much nicer than the clear plastic sort of
cover that you can get for other radios.  They match the Elecraft sort of
philosophy: a quality product, built in the home.   

I like the light gray one best and the denim one second best.   

I've suggested to Rose that she also offer a cover for the KX1, with an
optional slot for the KXPD1 paddle, sort of like the slot she's willing to
put into the K2 cover if you use a microphone and want to leave it connected
while the rig is covered.  

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of N4GW
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 6:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Covers for your Elecraft rigs


Hey everyone,

I just wanted to let you know that I just got my K3 radio cover from Rose
Kopp.  They look awesome.  If you ever wanted a nice cover for your Elecraft
rigs, these are the ones to get.  I am not affiliated with them in anyway, 
but I wanted to pass this one.  Rose will send you pictures of them so you
can see her workmanship.If you are interested, you can reach her at:  

Rose Kopp - N7HKW
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
or
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
73, Mike, N4GW

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[Elecraft] K3: Clicking on internal speaker

[gregory . beat]

Still "breaking-in" (reprogramming operator) my new K3.

W1AW Teletype bulletin on 80 meters Friday night, decoded perfectly on LCD 
(nice feature).
While listening Wedensday night to the W1AW CW Bulletin and Code practice 
sessions on 80 meters -- I had to turn on the attenuator to reduce the signal !

When I was "dialing through" the Noise Reduction" filter selections -- I heard 
digital "clicks" in the internal speaker -- as I switched through each 
selection.  
I will have to open up and see if moving or rerouting the speaker wire -- will 
cure the situation.

Greg
w9gb
K3  #197
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6358 Alignment and Test Part 1

[Tony Parker]

On Jan 26, 2008, at 8:08 AM, nz0t wrote:



Don't feel bad.  I missed a pin on the main display and had to very  
carefully
solder it with everything in the way.  And, yes, I checked my  
soldering -

just not enough!
K2/100 #5703 is still going string after 16 months of hard use!



The sad part is that I had already checked the soldering 3 times.   
Once after the initial
soldering, again at the end of the manual page and then when  
instructed to in the

manual.

I guess 2 hour build periods are pushing it for this creaky old 57  
year old carcass.


Tony
ke6g





Tony Parker-2 wrote:


K2 #6358 just passed all the steps in Alignment and Test Part 1.

No smoke was released and after a brief detour to figure out why
segment 10 of the s-meter wouldn't light (pin 1 of the led array
wasn't soldered!) all tests passed.

Missing pin 1 was a real shock to me since I triple checked my
soldering.  Also, I haven't been working when I am tired and haven't
worked more than about 2 hours (with breaks) at any one sitting.

I guess Don's advice to:
1.  Check your soldering
2.  Check your soldering
3.  Check your soldering

wasn't enough for me.  It took 4 times!

Tony
ke6g


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View this message in context: http://www.nabble.com/K2--6358- 
Alignment-and-Test-Part-1-tp15101585p15109408.html

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[Elecraft] Elecraft rig covers from Rose and Ken Kopp

[tjdooley]

I received my covers this week.  I am very pleased with the quality, fit and 
looks.  I ordered one for my K2, with the microphone notch (if I ever wanted to 
hook up a microphone).  I also got one for my separate box (Elecraft, of 
course) which houses the 100W amplifier and tuner from Elecraft.

Delivery was extremely fast and communications were excellent.  If you want a 
cover for your Elecraft radios, this is the way to go.

73
Tom
K4TJD
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6358 Alignment and Test Part 1

[Tony Parker]

On Jan 26, 2008, at 6:35 AM, Ken, KA0W wrote:


Tony,

  What will power: "haven't worked more than about 2 hours (with  
breaks) at any one sitting" !


  Is there some kind of special military training you had that  
enables you to stop working on a radio project after only 2 hours -  
"HI!"




No special training; I want this radio to be my main cw radio for  
cycle 24 and I don't want any problems
so I am taking my time.  Although it is hard to stop sometimes,  I  
would rather it take a little longer and

be solid.


  I still can remember being up for two days at a time putting  
together my Heathkit DX60B and HR10B so I could get on the air.


  Will see if my K2/100 tests ok after a few hours of building. It  
first has to get here, maybe late next week. Doubt I would last 2  
days of building now, would have a soldering pencil burn across my  
face after falling asleep.




Good luck with your new toy!  The only place where I had a 'problem'  
was recognizing that the LCD could not be
installed wrong (brain freeze) and the length of the pins on the  
backlight.  You will probably have only minimal
contact between the board and the pins.  Just go ahead and let the  
solder flow up the pins on the backlight.

It worked fine for me.

Tony
ke6g



  Have fun!

  Ken, KA0W





Tony Parker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  K2 #6358 just passed all the steps in Alignment and Test Part 1.

No smoke was released and after a brief detour to figure out why
segment 10 of the s-meter wouldn't light (pin 1 of the led array
wasn't soldered!) all tests passed.

Missing pin 1 was a real shock to me since I triple checked my
soldering. Also, I haven't been working when I am tired and haven't
worked more than about 2 hours (with breaks) at any one sitting.

I guess Don's advice to:
1. Check your soldering
2. Check your soldering
3. Check your soldering

wasn't enough for me. It took 4 times!

Tony
ke6g


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[Elecraft] Elecraft Items For Sale

[BigAlT]

I have the following items for Sale
 K2/100 with KSB2 and MH2 Mic Serial # 352X. Checked & aligned by Gary
Surrency of Elecraft in June 2003. He commented that the construction was
excellent. Radio was my backup K2 and has been in the box ever since I got
it from the original owner in July 2003. $750 shipped CONUS

 KAT2 20 Watt ATU fully built. I got the unit along with the above K2/100
and was advised it worked perfectly but have never switched out the KPA100
to test it so is sold As Is. $135 shipped CONUS.

 KAT100-1 Unbuilt Kit in factory box never opened. Includes the Pre Wound
Torroids from the Torroid Guy. $200 shipped CONUS

 KDSP2 Unbuilt Kit in factory box never opened. $200 shipped CONUS

 KNB2 Unbuilt Kit in factory box never opened, Includes the Pre Wound
Torroid from the Torroid Guy. $30 shipped CONUS.

 I purchased all of the above Kits intending to install them in the Basic
K2/100 but got a fully loaded K2/100 before I got around to it.

 Have a K3 on order so these must go. Please contact me off line if
interested.
 73
 Al Tyson
 WB6HPF
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://www.nabble.com/Elecraft-Items-For-Sale-tp15112499p15112499.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] 274 is QRV

[Jay Schwisow]

Well#274 ordered May 10th is built and on the air.  A friend of mine 
and I built it in just under 4 hours.  It was quite the assembly line!


I have to say that I was  impressed with the kit.  Everything was 
included and it went together perfectly.  Form and fit was fantastic!   
The instruction manual is VERY well written and includes some of those 
"watch out" type comments that tend to be missing in other technical 
manuals.   Operationally, it is everything I expected it to be. 

For all of you that are waiting for the rig -it is worth the wait. 


Jay - KT5E
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[Elecraft] [K2] Hi Cur questions

[Oliver Johns]

Dear folks,

I'm wondering if this is a bug, or perhaps a known feature of the  
K2.  Comments appreciated.


The following observations are made with the Max current set to 3.5  
A.  The K2 is running into a DL1 dummy load, directly connected by a  
male-male BNC adapter.  The KAT2 is not installed.  The power supply  
is rated at 4 A continuous, 6 A intermittent.  There is very little  
drop in the nominal 13.6 voltage when the Xmtr is keyed.  The BP  
filters have been aligned carefully as per the manual page 80.


On 40, 20, 17, 15, 12, 10 meters, I can set the Power knob on the K2  
to its maximum of 15.2 Watts with no sign of Hi Cur.  The actual  
current drains run somewhere around 2.5 A.  The actual power out  
varies, of course, but there is no problem with Hi Cur.  The powers  
read from the display are:  40 = 14.9   20 = 14.5   17 = 14.6   15 =  
14.1   12 = 10.9   10 = 10.0.  Notice that the power decreases on 12  
and 10, as evidently would be expected since the final is less  
efficient on these high bands.


But on 80 meters, there will be Hi Cur for any power knob setting  
above 8 Watts.  At 8 Watts, the power read from the display is 8.1  
Watts and the current drain is about 2.25 A.  But much above that and  
the current goes to the maximum and is then limited back.


And on 30 meters there will be Hi Cur for any power knob setting  
above 10 Watts.  At 10 Watts, the power read from the display is 9.8  
Watts and the current drain is 3.4 A.


The 30 meter case is particularly puzzling to me.  The BP inductors  
for 30 meters are shared with 20 meters, and the LP filter for the  
two bands is the same.  So any soldering error there would probably  
also show up on 20 meters.  And 30 meters is lower in frequency than  
20 meters and so should be more not less efficient.


I have examined, re-soldered, etc., everything in the BP and LP  
filters for 80 meters.


Any ideas, or is this just normal behavior?

Tnx,

Oliver Johns
W6ODJ
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[Elecraft] Encoder shaft felt washer

[Jeremiah McCarthy]

>>I personally am not a fan of the felt washer solution 
in either the K2 or the K3. Not only for the reason you state, but it also 
seems like it must wear out eventually or get rubbed down smooth so it doesn't 
provide friction. It just seems "Mickey Mouse" as we used to say<<

I replaced my felt washer with a leather one because the felt one got damaged 
when it fell to the floor and got run over by the wheel of my chair...I don't 
think there is anything wrong with felt...In the 30's and 40's felt washers 
were common in radios and early TV's...Some early TV's did not have detent 
tuners, they had belt driven continuous tuners and felt washers were used to 
maintain friction so that the tuner shaft did not creep...Admittedly they were 
a very fine grade hard white felt that did not shed...

If the felt washer in the K-2 or K-3 wears to the extent that it no longer 
provides friction, we simply loosen the set screws and move the knob in 
closer...

Jerry, wa2dkg
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Aux Bus - DC Bias at 9pin Connector ?

[Curt Milton]

Don

Thanks - that was the hint i needed to sort out the
maze of connectors.  

Yes it was open from KAT100 U1 pin 40 to K2 Control
Board P4 pin 2.  So i opened the K2 and laid
everything flat -- each board was ok.  I powered up
and it came to life.  I suspect the ribbon cable
between the K2 control board and KPA100 was pinched. 
I carefully put it together and all is well now.  

Thanks again for your help, and verifying voltage on
your own K2.  

73, Curt K2 #2117

--- Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Curt,
> 
> All options use the Auxbus - your KSB2, the KPA100
> and even the KIOC 
> chip inside the K2 use th eAUXBUS.  If the K2 is
> working normally when 
> the KAT100 is attached, then the AUXBUS signal is
> working.
> 
> What is the problem with the KAT100?  If it is not
> recognized in the K2 
> menu, then the KAT100 firmware chip is not
> communicating with the K2 
> (yes, it uses the AUXBUS for that).  Be certain all
> pins of the KAT100 
> firmware chip socket are soldered (did you miss
> soldering pin 1? - that 
> often happens).  Connect the cable to the KAT100
> (turn power off) and 
> check continuity from KAT100 U1 pin 40 to K2 Control
> Board P4 pin 2 - 
> somewhere near 470 ohms is expected.
> 
> If all the above is correct, the KAT100 firmware
> should be communicating 
> with the K2.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 
> Curt Milton wrote:
> > I am still troubleshooting my KAT100, and now I am
> > wondering if the problem might be the aux bus.  
> >
> > When the 9-pin connector is attached to the K2,
> and
> > the KAT100 is disconnected - should there be 5-6
> volts
> > DC on pin 6 ?  I see voltages on pin 8 and 9, but
> > nothing on pin 6.  (And yes i verified the cable
> is ok
> > on pin 6).  
> >
> > I had previously checked the DC path from pin 6
> back
> > to the IOC in the K2 - but I hadn't probed this
> any
> > further.  
> >
> > I suspect there are no other users of the Aux Bus
> > except an ATU (my K2 has only ssb, 160m and kpa100
> > installed).  
> >
> > Info appreciated.  
> >
> >
> >  
>

> > Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
> > Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. 
>
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
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>   
> >
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> >
> >
> >   
> 



  

Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Hi Cur questions

[Don Wilhelm]

Oliver,

High Current coupled with low power output is normally an indication of 
a problem with the Low Pass Filter or with T4.  The first thing to check 
is the Low Pass Filter.  Check the capacitor values for the 20/30 meter 
(and 80 meter) low pass and count (and recount) the turns on the 
toroids.  Be certain to count only the turns that pass through the 
center of the core. 

Check to be certain T4 is wound correctly - 2 turns of green wire and 3 
turns of white wire.


As a last resort, there may be a problem with one of the PA output 
transistors (Q7 and Q8).  One could be weak and hogging current in an 
attempt to produce the requested power output - they have sufficient 
gain on some bands to produce adequate power even if one is weak.  The 
easiest way to determine that is to replace them both.


73,
Don W3FPR
Oliver Johns wrote:

Dear folks,

I'm wondering if this is a bug, or perhaps a known feature of the K2.  
Comments appreciated.


The following observations are made with the Max current set to 3.5 
A.  The K2 is running into a DL1 dummy load, directly connected by a 
male-male BNC adapter.  The KAT2 is not installed.  The power supply 
is rated at 4 A continuous, 6 A intermittent.  There is very little 
drop in the nominal 13.6 voltage when the Xmtr is keyed.  The BP 
filters have been aligned carefully as per the manual page 80.


On 40, 20, 17, 15, 12, 10 meters, I can set the Power knob on the K2 
to its maximum of 15.2 Watts with no sign of Hi Cur.  The actual 
current drains run somewhere around 2.5 A.  The actual power out 
varies, of course, but there is no problem with Hi Cur.  The powers 
read from the display are:  40 = 14.9   20 = 14.5   17 = 14.6   15 = 
14.1   12 = 10.9   10 = 10.0.  Notice that the power decreases on 12 
and 10, as evidently would be expected since the final is less 
efficient on these high bands.


But on 80 meters, there will be Hi Cur for any power knob setting 
above 8 Watts.  At 8 Watts, the power read from the display is 8.1 
Watts and the current drain is about 2.25 A.  But much above that and 
the current goes to the maximum and is then limited back.


And on 30 meters there will be Hi Cur for any power knob setting above 
10 Watts.  At 10 Watts, the power read from the display is 9.8 Watts 
and the current drain is 3.4 A.


The 30 meter case is particularly puzzling to me.  The BP inductors 
for 30 meters are shared with 20 meters, and the LP filter for the two 
bands is the same.  So any soldering error there would probably also 
show up on 20 meters.  And 30 meters is lower in frequency than 20 
meters and so should be more not less efficient.




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[Elecraft] Where is Elecraft on Google Maps?

[Paul ZL3IN]

I have been amusing myself by trying to find Elecraft HQ using the satellite
imagery on Google Maps. I'm guessing they are somewhere in the Deer Park
Center, but I can't spot any K3 boxes stacked outside any of the buildings.
Anyone care to give directions?

 

73 Paul ZL3IN

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RE: [Elecraft] Delays, etc.

[Bill Johnson]

Yes, and I get closer to ordering one, myself!!!  Once they get caught up I
will dive in too!  

Can't beat Elecraft stuff.  I have been in Ham for 48 years licensed and
have seen and owned a lot of stuff!  Hard to say that or admit that I am
only 62! 

72,

Bill 

K9YEQ
K2 #35, K2 # 5279, KX1 #35, Mini Modules, etc.  

-Original Message-


>Initial reaction was, who cares.  Then I thought, well, maybe there is 
>something to learn here.

[snip]

Yes there is.  Every time some one cancels their order, my order gets closer
to
the door.  I'd like to thank Brett and all the others who cancelled their
orders
for moving me up one more position in the queue.

>Brett Gazdzinski wrote:
>> I cancelled my order as I could not take it anymore,

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Re: [Elecraft] Where is Elecraft on Google Maps?

[Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

As I recall (it has been over 2 years since I have been there)!
They are indeed in Deere Park Center - on the 2nd level (parking is on 
the 1st level).  Somewhere near the center.  I believe the K3 boxes are 
inside under the roof.


73,
Don W3FPR

Paul ZL3IN wrote:

I have been amusing myself by trying to find Elecraft HQ using the satellite
imagery on Google Maps. I'm guessing they are somewhere in the Deer Park
Center, but I can't spot any K3 boxes stacked outside any of the buildings.
Anyone care to give directions?

  

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Re: [Elecraft] Where is Elecraft on Google Maps?

[Kevin Rock]

   An interesting question Paul :)  Is Elecraft just one place with just a few 
folks?  Eric, Wayne, and Lisa?  Or is it a larger assemblage?  Is it Gary 
Surrency in Arizona?  Or Lyle in Washington?  Or perhaps Ron in Oregon?  How 
about Don in North Carolina or Tom in Missouri?  In a larger sense it is in 
each of us who build the kits and use them on the air.  There is a little bit 
of Elecraft in us all.
   Kevin.  KD5ONS

-Original Message-
>From: Don Wilhelm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Jan 26, 2008 6:38 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Where is Elecraft on Google Maps?
>
>Paul,
>
>As I recall (it has been over 2 years since I have been there)!
>They are indeed in Deere Park Center - on the 2nd level (parking is on 
>the 1st level).  Somewhere near the center.  I believe the K3 boxes are 
>inside under the roof.
>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>
>Paul ZL3IN wrote:
>> I have been amusing myself by trying to find Elecraft HQ using the satellite
>> imagery on Google Maps. I'm guessing they are somewhere in the Deer Park
>> Center, but I can't spot any K3 boxes stacked outside any of the buildings.
>> Anyone care to give directions?
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] Where is Elecraft on Google Maps?

[K8TB]

I think this is HQ:

http://tiny.cc/L4sGr

At first I was looking for a 150 foot tower with stack antennas,
but then I think Eric and Wayne and wire antenna type guys.

Maybe they could put some white bricks on the roof and spell out "K3",
and we can then wait for the next set of sat pics from Google!

   vy 73, de tom k8tb



  


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Re: [Elecraft] Where is Elecraft on Google Maps?

[Bill W5WVO]

LOL Been there many times, prior to leaving Aptos in 2002. Red Apple Cafe used 
to be (maybe still is) on that upper level, nice breakfast place. Panda Inn 
(great Chinese place) underneath it on the first level. Been there probably 
1,000 times. My guess is Elecraft must have moved in there after I moved to 
New Mexico.


Bill W5WVO


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Paul,

As I recall (it has been over 2 years since I have been there)!
They are indeed in Deere Park Center - on the 2nd level (parking is on
the 1st level).  Somewhere near the center.  I believe the K3 boxes
are inside under the roof.

73,
Don W3FPR

Paul ZL3IN wrote:

I have been amusing myself by trying to find Elecraft HQ using the
satellite imagery on Google Maps. I'm guessing they are somewhere in
the Deer Park Center, but I can't spot any K3 boxes stacked outside
any of the buildings. Anyone care to give directions?



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ssb tx passband

[AJSOENKE]

In a message dated 1/23/2008 7:11:35 A.M.  Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Are ssb tx passband  adjustments in the K3 limited to TX EQ?  If so, is 
there
> a spec on  what the tx audio passband is adjusted to at the factory with the
> stock  2.7Khz filter?

The default Tx Audio passband is 250 Hz to 3150 Hz.   Its adjustment is 
not yet part of the user interface, but will  be.

73,

Lyle  KK7P

___

I see the anticipated response. 
 
Now I begin to think and wonder if we should expect the K3 to also retain  
some of it's unique flavor, something that has made it special among the many. 
I 
 like most of these suggestions but am concerned that there is too much 
emphasis  being placed on making it the same as 5 or 6 existing other rigs. I'd 
prefer a  catalog of firmware to emulate a variety of different rigs. That way, 
maybe some  of us simpler folks could retain the features that are most 
meaningful to our  way of operating.
May I be so bold as to suggest a suite of features for the CW op that is  
separate to the Phone OP or the 
Data OP. I see that with the correct firmware dejour we could sweep  the 
market with the ideal SDR rig with a knob on it.
 
Al WA6VNN



**Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. 
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300025
48)
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   There was a break in the weather this morning: light to medium rain for half 
the day.  I was making dinner when the sound changed.  I walked out on the deck 
to see mixed precipitation.  We are supposed to get snow for the next four 
days.  It was nice to have a bit of warmth but it was just a short break.  
Hopefully the temperature won't drop too low over the next week.
   However, the fire is warm and some good jazz is on the radio.  My only radio 
activities this week have been listening to the local FM stations.  No activity 
on 20 or 40 meters at all due to schedule conflicts.  It is good to be busy but 
being to busy to get on the air is not a good thing.  Maybe next week will be 
better.
   Thus, I do not know much about conditions except for what I've read on QRP-L 
and on the Glowbug list.  But most of these guys are so busy designing and 
building they don't have time to get on the air!  I have been writing code and 
banging out a few bugs in my design.  H ... I need to schedule a break in 
here somewhere.  How about tomorrow at 2300 and again at 0100?

Please join us tomorrow evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP  help)
 
Sunday 2300z (Sunday 3 PM PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 5 PM PST)  7045 kHz
 
   Stay warm,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
ecn.visionseer.com  for net details

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