[Elecraft] KX1 and 'Bumblebees'...

2008-10-15 Thread Dave G.
There's a nice little article about the KX-1 and 'Bumblebees" in this issue of 
World Radio.

Wayne, you get a mention as a 'Founding Father' !!

--
Dave G.   KK7SS
'65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA

If life begins at 50, why am I falling apart ?!
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.

2008-10-15 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Scott was mistaken. All K3s pull air in through the top, across the PA heat 
sink, and blow it out the rear.

73,

Eric
_..._
-Original Message-
From: Missouri Guy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wednesday, Oct 15, 2008 8:03 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Elecraft@mailman.qth.net

OK, thanks Willis.  I asked "Scott" at Elecraft and
he said his (at the shop) was flowing out the top.
It's hard to tell without a "flag" near the input-outputs.

73,
Charlie, N0TT

On Wed, 15 Oct 2008 16:46:08 -0700 (PDT) WILLIS COOKE <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
writes:
 The same way yours is.  The air is supposed to flow out the back.
 
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
 K5EWJ
 
 
 --- On Wed, 10/15/08, Missouri Guy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
 
 > From: Missouri Guy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 > Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.
 > To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 > Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2008, 4:40 PM
 > Gents,
 > 
 > The fans in my new K3 blow warm/hot air out the back
 > instead of through the slots on top of the cabinet.
 > That doesn't seem logical.
 > 
 > I verified the postion of the red and black leads
 > and they are plugged in as directed, with the 
 > RED leads being on the LEFT as viewed from
 > the BACK of the cabinet.  The fans are also
 > installed correctly, with their labels on the OUTSIDE.
 > 
 > I checked the air flow with a piece of paperjust
 > checking with my hands wasn't 100% conclusive.
 > 
 > Which way is the air flowing in/out of your k3/100?
 > 
 > Thanks,
 > Charlie, N0TT
 > ___
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange K2 Behavior?

2008-10-15 Thread Brian Mury
On Wed, 2008-10-15 at 19:34 -0600, Michael Lewis wrote:
> band. I actually tuned out of 20m by a little bit up to 14359
> (14359.03 on the display to be exact) and BAM! I got an S9 tone. It
> goes from totally quiet to S9 as soon as the tuning display hits
> 14359.03. happens with no external antenna.

I just tried it and I get the same thing. Starts at exactly:

14359.03 USB (I assume you were using USB?)
14360.80 CW
14359.25 CW reverse
14361.74 LSB
14361.50 RTTY
14358.53 RTTY reverse

It behaves exactly as you described. It always starts suddenly then
gradually tapers off in strength while tuning to higher frequencies.



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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.

2008-10-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
That's right Charlie. The fans exhaust (blow out) air from the inside of the
cabinet, drawing cooler room air in through the vents in the top. That is,
they pull the hot air around the heat sink out of the K3. If the fans pushed
air in, the hot air from the heat sink would be circulated around inside the
rig before exiting through the vents. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Gents,

The fans in my new K3 blow warm/hot air out the back
instead of through the slots on top of the cabinet.
That doesn't seem logical.

I verified the postion of the red and black leads
and they are plugged in as directed, with the 
RED leads being on the LEFT as viewed from
the BACK of the cabinet.  The fans are also
installed correctly, with their labels on the OUTSIDE.

I checked the air flow with a piece of paperjust
checking with my hands wasn't 100% conclusive.

Which way is the air flowing in/out of your k3/100?

Thanks,
Charlie, N0TT
___

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[Elecraft] Strange K2 Behavior?

2008-10-15 Thread Michael Lewis
So I am patiently waiting for my K3 to ship (katiegram came end of last
week, Woohoo!) and so I have been using my K2 as the main station radio
after selling my IC-756Pro (still a great radio in its own right...)

Anyway, this evening I was trying to update my records after my latest batch
of bureau cards came in, and tuning along a mostly quiet 20m band. Worked a
mobile station in TX, and then casually tuned up the band. I actually tuned
out of 20m by a little bit up to 14359 (14359.03 on the display to be exact)
and BAM! I got an S9 tone. It goes from totally quiet to S9 as soon as the
tuning display hits 14359.03. happens with no external antenna. It obviously
must be an internal birdie, but I don't ever remember one that seems to be
so abrupt - it's like something breaks into oscillation right at that point.
It is totally repeatable. If I continue tuning up, it just drops in
frequency and goes out of the passband. But tuning up to it from lower in
frequency, it is not there at all, and then THERE!

Everything else about the rig seems fine, so I am not sure this is even a
problem. But I am kinda curious to know if this is 'normal' behavior, or
what. I don't normally tune out of the ham bands on the K2 (not much point
to it) so I just stumbled onto it. No idea if the radio has always done this
or not.

Any ideas as to what this is, and if it represents any kind of an issue?

73 de KE0MF/Mike
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - bad CW note

2008-10-15 Thread Rick N6CY

I recently completed building my K3 and listening on a different transceiver
in the shack, I also noticed a light hum/buzz superimposed on my 18-24 MHz
CW signal at levels above 12, up to 100 watts, into a dummy load. Also using
a switching power supply, Astron SS-30. I don't own a linear power supply to
substitute. However when I switch to battery-only, the buzz is still
present. So over time I'll try to verify with stations if this is just a
"local", in-station phenomenon, or truly going out on the air. Propagation
hasn't actually been good for these upper frequencies...

73 Rick N6CY



John W2XS wrote:
> 
> Is there a difference in the power supplies at the two stations?  I had a
> very similar bad CW report when I first got my K3 which was due to a
> switching power supply that I was using.  The note was bad at all power
> levels on several bands.  I bought an Astron RS-35A and the reports were
> good.  I still wonder why the switcher didn't work well since it was a
> 12V, 24A supply.  
> 
> Good luck.  John W2XS
> 

-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Spkrs/Phones switch - cool undocumented(?) feature

2008-10-15 Thread Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU
I programmed PF2 (XIT) to select the MIC SEL menu, so it makes a nice 
pair with RIT being SPKR.


Leigh/WA5ZNU
...when I hold the PF1 switch it actually TOGGLES between the two 
options (Spkrs on/off ) EXACTLY like you would want it to! 


...

73, Barry, K6RM

  


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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.

2008-10-15 Thread Rob May

Page 13 of the KPA3 manual says "the fans will blow air out of the K3".  So 
yours are operating correctly.  Mine blow outwards.  If you're old enough, you 
might have lived in a house with an attic fan.  It's the same principle, pull 
the air through what you want to cool.
Rob
NV5E

> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 23:40:54 +
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> CC:
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.
>
> Gents,
>
> The fans in my new K3 blow warm/hot air out the back
> instead of through the slots on top of the cabinet.
> That doesn't seem logical.
>
> I verified the postion of the red and black leads
> and they are plugged in as directed, with the
> RED leads being on the LEFT as viewed from
> the BACK of the cabinet. The fans are also
> installed correctly, with their labels on the OUTSIDE.
>
> I checked the air flow with a piece of paperjust
> checking with my hands wasn't 100% conclusive.
>
> Which way is the air flowing in/out of your k3/100?
>
> Thanks,
> Charlie, N0TT
> ___
> Elecraft mailing list
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>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.

2008-10-15 Thread Missouri Guy
OK, thanks Willis.  I asked "Scott" at Elecraft and
he said his (at the shop) was flowing out the top.
It's hard to tell without a "flag" near the input-outputs.

73,
Charlie, N0TT

On Wed, 15 Oct 2008 16:46:08 -0700 (PDT) WILLIS COOKE <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
writes:
> The same way yours is.  The air is supposed to flow out the back.
> 
> Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
> K5EWJ
> 
> 
> --- On Wed, 10/15/08, Missouri Guy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > From: Missouri Guy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.
> > To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Date: Wednesday, October 15, 2008, 4:40 PM
> > Gents,
> > 
> > The fans in my new K3 blow warm/hot air out the back
> > instead of through the slots on top of the cabinet.
> > That doesn't seem logical.
> > 
> > I verified the postion of the red and black leads
> > and they are plugged in as directed, with the 
> > RED leads being on the LEFT as viewed from
> > the BACK of the cabinet.  The fans are also
> > installed correctly, with their labels on the OUTSIDE.
> > 
> > I checked the air flow with a piece of paperjust
> > checking with my hands wasn't 100% conclusive.
> > 
> > Which way is the air flowing in/out of your k3/100?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Charlie, N0TT
> > ___
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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> > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.

2008-10-15 Thread Ken Kopp

Hi Charlie,

Mine blows out the rear, which I feel is correct, though it goes
against conventional "warm air rises" logic.

If for no other reason, dust would be "inhaled" into the cabinet
if they were configured to "inhale" from the rear.

73! Ken K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[Elecraft] BL-2 balun core material

2008-10-15 Thread Ken Kopp
I've searched the Elecraft website for this info.  I hope I didn't 
miss it. {;-)


What is the core material in the two cores used in the BL-2?

73!  Ken - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[Elecraft] K3 Fans with the 100w kit.

2008-10-15 Thread Missouri Guy
Gents,

The fans in my new K3 blow warm/hot air out the back
instead of through the slots on top of the cabinet.
That doesn't seem logical.

I verified the postion of the red and black leads
and they are plugged in as directed, with the 
RED leads being on the LEFT as viewed from
the BACK of the cabinet.  The fans are also
installed correctly, with their labels on the OUTSIDE.

I checked the air flow with a piece of paperjust
checking with my hands wasn't 100% conclusive.

Which way is the air flowing in/out of your k3/100?

Thanks,
Charlie, N0TT
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KRX3 and VFOB

2008-10-15 Thread WA6L


Ah -- the old "push it twice trick!"   I hadn't tried that.  I know a single
push did not do it.  Thanks for the info and 73!




Barry N1EU wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> John, all you need to do is tap A>B twice to transfer all of the vfoA
> settings (including mode) to vfoB.  You don't have to turn the subreceiver
> on.  In the next firmware release (2.50 or later), you will only need to
> tap A>B once to transfer mode.
> 
> 73,
> Barry N1EU
> 
> 

-- 
View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: KRX3 and VFOB

2008-10-15 Thread Barry N1EU



WA6L wrote:
> 
> 
> The only way around this is to turn the sub-receiver back on, push BSET,
> change to LSB, then turn the sub-receiver off.  Now VFOB transmits on LSB.
> 
> 

John, all you need to do is tap A>B twice to transfer all of the vfoA
settings (including mode) to vfoB.  You don't have to turn the subreceiver
on.  In the next firmware release (2.50 or later), you will only need to tap
A>B once to transfer mode.

73,
Barry N1EU

-- 
View this message in context: 
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[Elecraft] K3: KRX3 and VFOB

2008-10-15 Thread WA6L


I received my KRX3 and installed it with no problems.  All is working as it
should, except . . .

There is a strange behavior that may be by design, but which is a bit
inconvenient.  It involves the KRX3 settings and how they are applied to
VFOB.

Here is an example.  I have the main receiver on 80m CW.  With the
sub-recevier on, I press BSET and make sure that it is also set to 80m CW
and that I am sharing the same antenna as the main recever.

Now, I turn the sub-receiver off.  I change the main receiver to 80m LSB and
go to split operation (as I did to try and work VK9DWX).  However, when
transmitting on the VFOB frequency, nothing happens as VFOB is transmitting
CW.

The only way around this is to turn the sub-receiver back on, push BSET,
change to LSB, then turn the sub-receiver off.  Now VFOB transmits on LSB.

So, with the sub-receiver turned off, VFOB does not track modes with VFOA as
it did before the KRX3 installation.  Can this be right?  It seems like it
should track along with VFOA as it did before.

I am running the latest 2.46 beta firmware.

Thanks and 73,

John, WA6L



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 problem

2008-10-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ian,

Is it possible that you plugged the KDSP2 in with the pins offset from 
the headers?  That would kill the audio in your K2.
If you find no simple answer, unplug the KDSP2 and bend a couple of 
component leads to fit between the 2 control board headers - J1 pin 1 to 
J2 pin 1, and J1 pin 2 to J2 pin 2.  No need to solder them in, just 
push the wire ends into the headers and 'presto', you have created an 
'unmodule' - it works for me that way.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ian Maude wrote:

Hi all,
Well I thought I would have another go at calibratign my K2 after a 
couple of years and I have broken something.  I have no RF audio.  
Sidetone is fine and I get a click on switch on.  I suspect the KDSP 
board.  I do not see the LED at all on switch on and the K2 does not 
think it is installed.  Is there an easy way to take it out of circuit 
physically to narrow the search please?


73 ian


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Spkrs/Phones switch - cool undocumented(?) feature

2008-10-15 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
and it you set CONFIG: SPKRS = 2 then you can get audio effects on  
your headphones too!

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Being a System Administrator is like being a plumber.
If you do a good job, nobody knows. If you screw up, everybody gets  
covered in s**t!


On 15 Oct 2008, at 18:31, Barry Pfeil wrote:

I really like being able to plug my Heil headset into the K3 rear  
panel with no adapters, etc.  BUT, when I want to listen via the  
speaker, I find it inconvenient to go through a menu change or to  
have to reach around the back of the radio to unplug the phones .


I'm still "exploring" this rig and just discovered that I could  
program one of the "PF" switches to access the "SPKR+PH" menu item  
to turn the speaker on and off even with phones still plugged in.  I  
expected that when I did so I would have to hold PF1 and then rotate  
the VFO A knob each time but that still seemed better than reaching  
around the back of the radio.


So I programmed the PF1 as mentioned above and was happily surprised  
to find that when I hold the PF1 switch it actually TOGGLES between  
the two options (Spkrs on/off ) EXACTLY like you would want it to!   
Very cool.  Still loving (and discovering) this radio!

73, Barry, K6RM


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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 noise from PRO II

2008-10-15 Thread Gary Smith


> >I have noticed strange noise level in my K3 when switch on my Icom
> >756PROII
> 
> My PRO III makes quite a noise on my AM broadcast receiver.
> It seems to be coming from whatever p/s drives the display screen.
> 
> My neighbour's plasma TV makes terrible QRM on 160, 80, 40m as well.
> 

My father's 756 Pro does the same to his AM radio. Seems that there's 
a common thread here. Likely it's not your K3 at issue.

Gary
KA1J
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[Elecraft] Remote tuning knob

2008-10-15 Thread PaulKB8N
I'd like to build a remote tuning knob that I could switch between  my two 
K3s.  Is tuning capability available anywhere on the  radio.  I believe that 
you 
can put an encoder right on top (electrically)  of the main tuning encoder, 
and use either.
 
Thanks,
 
Paul, K5AF
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[Elecraft] K2 problem

2008-10-15 Thread Ian Maude

Hi all,
Well I thought I would have another go at calibratign my K2 after a 
couple of years and I have broken something.  I have no RF audio.  
Sidetone is fine and I get a click on switch on.  I suspect the KDSP 
board.  I do not see the LED at all on switch on and the K2 does not 
think it is installed.  Is there an easy way to take it out of circuit 
physically to narrow the search please?


73 ian

--

Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster
Member RSGB, GQRP
K2 #4044 |K3 #455 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #06602 under construction

2008-10-15 Thread John Frerichs
I share your enthusiasm for CW.  I do like PSK31 very much, though.  I also 
have some friends who have no desire for CW.  For them, I plan on (shudder!) 
picking up a microphone.  For that reason, I just installed the SSB board.  
Knowing my plans to do this when originally building the K2, I installed the 
MIC jack.

I believe CW will be around for a long time.  The subbands might shrink a 
little more here and there, but I doubt they'll ever go away altogether.  

As for the empty holes in the back, I just leave them empty.  In the future, I 
may fill them with connectors.  For now the rear faces the wall and it doesn't 
seem to care any more than I that they're empty.  The effort required to fill 
them far exceeds my time available, which is best spent (IMHO) building other 
options I feel are beneficial inside the radio.

The K2 is my main radio and has replaced every other HF radio I've ever owned.  
They just didn't compare to the performance of the K2.

Although I prefer CW QRP, I may actually spring for the 100W PA someday.  
Having the option of QRO just seems like a good idea in the long run.  It will 
be my last option, if I decide to actual go that route.  There are far more 
important options for me to consider prior to QRO capability.

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[Elecraft] K3: Spkrs/Phones switch - cool undocumented(?) feature

2008-10-15 Thread Barry Pfeil
I really like being able to plug my Heil headset into the K3 rear panel with no 
adapters, etc.  BUT, when I want to listen via the speaker, I find it 
inconvenient to go through a menu change or to have to reach around the back of 
the radio to unplug the phones .
 
I'm still "exploring" this rig and just discovered that I could program one of 
the "PF" switches to access the "SPKR+PH" menu item to turn the speaker on and 
off even with phones still plugged in.  I expected that when I did so I would 
have to hold PF1 and then rotate the VFO A knob each time but that still seemed 
better than reaching around the back of the radio.
 
So I programmed the PF1 as mentioned above and was happily surprised to find 
that when I hold the PF1 switch it actually TOGGLES between the two options 
(Spkrs on/off ) EXACTLY like you would want it to!  Very cool.  Still loving 
(and discovering) this radio!
73, Barry, K6RM ___
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[Elecraft] microHAM micro KEYER with K3 cable FOR SALE

2008-10-15 Thread Roger Marrotte
If anyone is interested, I have a microHAM micro KEYER for sale.  It's in
perfect condition, functionally and physically.  It comes with all cabling
required to connect it to a K3.  It has worked well with my K3.  I'm not
using it so I'm selling it.  I'll sell it for $265.00 including shipping in
the USA.  Please respond off the list to my email address.
 
Thanks,
 
Roger, W1EM   
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[Elecraft] [OT] PIC development advice needed

2008-10-15 Thread Julian, G4ILO

My apologies for posting this off-topic query but I know of no other ham
radio group containing so many experts who are likely to be able to answer.

I am familiar with programming for PCs (using Pascal language) but have no
experience at all of programming microcontrollers or of DSP programming. I
would like to get started in this area.

I want to make an WSPR beacon. It has to generate a slow FSK audio signal,
using four very precise frequencies close to 1500Hz (actually 1497.803,
1499.268, 1500.732 and 1502.197) according to a table I can program in. It
needs to have an accurate clock so it starts each transmission at two minute
intervals, and it needs to control the PTT of the radio.

How to get started? I am aware of various PIC development systems sold by
various places (e.g. Maplin) but I don't want to spend money and time
learning how to use a particular system only to find that it is not capable
of achieving this particular project.

Please reply off-list.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
-- 
View this message in context: 
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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Re: K3 noise from PRO II

2008-10-15 Thread Ralph Parker
>I have noticed strange noise level in my K3 when switch on my Icom 756PROII

My PRO III makes quite a noise on my AM broadcast receiver.
It seems to be coming from whatever p/s drives the display screen.

My neighbour's plasma TV makes terrible QRM on 160, 80, 40m as well.

VE7XF

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RE: [Elecraft] Re: K2 #06602 under construction

2008-10-15 Thread Marinus Loewensteijn

Dave, W5SV wrote:
>>On the front, I would recommend installing the microphone jack and wiring it 
>>up even if you never use it, (it might make resale later easier).  You can 
>>obtain a screw on cover, which looks nice, and you could affix your FISTS 
>>emblem to that.<<
 
Dave, 
 
Many thanks for this suggestion, any idea where these microphone covers are 
easily obtainable through mailorder?
 
Am reluctant adding accessories and adding more functionality to the buttons: 
one of my "pet hates" is that of having to wade through untold menus. And it 
seems to me that when one is visually impaired it becomes a real handicap.
 
I have seen the KRC2ACC kit that will give full CW feedback of the rig and that 
is one item that I have been pondering over.
 
Resale value in our part of the world ain't very good for anything that is not 
from the land of the rising sun. 
 
As long as the end result "looks the part" and is reversible in one way or 
another then I do not worry too much about the resale value or what others 
think.
 
One thing I am trying to do is to maximize the return on the investment ( and 
adding more acessories means that I will be financially stretching myself... )
 
73, Marinus, ZL2ML
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2 #06602 under construction

2008-10-15 Thread David F. Reed

Marinus,

as a CW rig, I admit I greatly enjoy my K2; as my sight is deteriorating 
as well, I am somewhat familiar with your requirement. 

I have found that driving the K2 via some program helps me a lot (versus 
struggling with the menus and key functions to change settings) but that 
help is probably good only as long as you can use a computer with the 
visual aid tools like hyper enlarged areas of the screen.


On the microphone and back holes, I have a set of weak suggestions.

On the back I would consider adding the connectors for the other 
functions; it would look nice and you might like to add one or more 
later.  For example, I really like using a separate antenna on the low 
bands.


On the front, I would recommend installing the microphone jack and 
wiring it up even if you never use it, (it might make resale later 
easier).  You can obtain a screw on cover, which looks nice, and you 
could affix your FISTS emblem to that.


Good luck!  I am confident you will really enjoy your K2.

73 de Dave, W5SV

Marinus Loewensteijn wrote:
To all who sofar have replied, both on and off list: Thanks for the 
inputs, much appreciated.
 
Keith: Until very recently that was exactly my own stance (would go 
QRT if I could no longer do CW). However the probability of loosing my 
eyesight has changed that somewhat. Thanks for the information on 
audio quality when listening to WWVH, to know that the audio of the 
basic kit on SSB is not the same as when using the dedicated kit is 
important.
 
Gary: yes without the microphone connector it would look strange. I am 
a strong believer of doing a single thing and be good at it rather 
than trying to be a Jack of all trades and excell in nothing.
If I was to cover up the hole it needs to be done in a meaningful and 
visually pleasing way. Perhaps use the space for something else. One 
thing I have been thinking about is making a label with the "Fists" 
logo on it and sticking that over it, hi hi. In any case I would get a 
spare front just in case I needed to revert.
 
Although I have completed the noise blanker and the control board I am 
not in a hurry to make a decision. I am waiting for the rework 
eliminator kit to arrive and that gives me a bit of time to ponder 
over this.
 
73, Marinus, ZL2ML
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[Elecraft] Re: VFO A tracks VFO b, Help

2008-10-15 Thread wayne burdick

Knut (AB2TC) wrote:

I am used to using the A/B switch for a quick excursion to another 
band to check for band conditions.


Hi Knut,

This will be possible after I complete work related to the "VFO IND" 
(VFO independence) menu entry. This affects a large amount of firmware, 
and it won't escape my lab until it's fully tested.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2008-10-15 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

I will again operate in the Polar Bear Moonlight Madness Event, PBMME,
this Saturday, October 18th. As usual, the first person who works WA3WSJ
while I'm backpacking on the AT this Saturday, will receive a 1996 Proof
Canadian $2 Polar Bear Coin. It's a beauty and it's yours if you work me
first! I'll be operating the PBMME on 20m, 30m and 40m around the qrp
frequencies. This PB Coin comes in its own box and has a clear, round,
plastic enclosure to keep it clean. 

In fact because this is the FIRST PBMME of the 2009 season, I'll throw
in a sterling silver keychain to mount your new PB Coin so you can  keep
it with you. I have one and it reminds me of the Polar Bear Ops every
day! Keep an ear out for WA3WSJ using my "pimped-out" Elecraft KX1.

http://www.wa3wsj.homestead.com/

72,
Ed, WA3WSJ
PB #2

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[Elecraft] Re: K2 #06602 under construction

2008-10-15 Thread Marinus Loewensteijn

To all who sofar have replied, both on and off list: Thanks for the inputs, 
much appreciated.
 
Keith: Until very recently that was exactly my own stance (would go QRT if I 
could no longer do CW). However the probability of loosing my eyesight has 
changed that somewhat. Thanks for the information on audio quality when 
listening to WWVH, to know that the audio of the basic kit on SSB is not the 
same as when using the dedicated kit is important.
 
Gary: yes without the microphone connector it would look strange. I am a strong 
believer of doing a single thing and be good at it rather than trying to be a 
Jack of all trades and excell in nothing.
If I was to cover up the hole it needs to be done in a meaningful and visually 
pleasing way. Perhaps use the space for something else. One thing I have been 
thinking about is making a label with the "Fists" logo on it and sticking that 
over it, hi hi. In any case I would get a spare front just in case I needed to 
revert.
 
Although I have completed the noise blanker and the control board I am not in a 
hurry to make a decision. I am waiting for the rework eliminator kit to arrive 
and that gives me a bit of time to ponder over this.
 
73, Marinus, ZL2ML
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 cw recieved on both sides of zerobeat?

2008-10-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Sam,

You need to align the filters and BFOs so you receive only one 
sideband.  With a wide filter setting, you cannot 'center' the filter 
without the passband lapping over into the other sideband.  Set filters 
wider than 1.8 times your sidetone pitch so the low corner frequency is 
at 200 Hz and extend upward from there.  Even though it is a CW filter, 
wide filters must be treated in a similar manner to SSB filters.  Use 
Spectrogram to obtain the optimum settings.


If you are not familiar with setting the filters or using Spectrogram, 
review the article on my website www.w3fpr.com dealing with K2 Dial 
Calibration.  Part 3 of that article deals with setting the filters.
Once you have used Spectrogram for setting the filters, you will never 
go back to any other method - after doing it once, it is easy.


73,
Don W3FPR

Sam M wrote:

With my K2 (#2481) in CW mode, in the wide filter setting of F1 = 1.8,
I can copy the signal on both sides of zerobeat,
just like it was a direct conversion receiver.
When in F2, F3, and F4, I only receive the signals on the one sideband.

I have had cw qso's, so I don't believe I am setup on the wrong sideband.
What have I done wrong and what do I need to do to correct it?
TIA
  

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[Elecraft] K3 #1366 Goes To Bon Aire NA For CQWWSSB

2008-10-15 Thread Roy Davis
I will be going to Bon Aire NA on the 21st with Kyle, WA4PGM, and others to 
participate in the CQWWSSB Contest.  I am taking My K3 #1366 along to be used 
as one of the stations.  If time permits before contest day, I hope to operate 
portable as PJ4\WK4Y.

Please work us in the contest.  The call for the contest will be PJ4E.

Thanks,

Roy - WK4Y

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[Elecraft] K2 cw recieved on both sides of zerobeat?

2008-10-15 Thread Sam M

With my K2 (#2481) in CW mode, in the wide filter setting of F1 = 1.8,
I can copy the signal on both sides of zerobeat,
just like it was a direct conversion receiver.
When in F2, F3, and F4, I only receive the signals on the one sideband.

I have had cw qso's, so I don't believe I am setup on the wrong sideband.
What have I done wrong and what do I need to do to correct it?
TIA
--
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KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #06602 under construction

2008-10-15 Thread Gary D Krause

Hi Marinus,

I left the tape that was already covering the holes when I received the kit. 
In fact, I believe they suggest that you do that in the manual.  I only cut 
out the hole that I needed to use.


I also installed the mike connector on the front since I think it would look 
awful even if I didn't plan to use it.  To me, it's like buying a car without 
head lights:-)


As far as CW is concerned, who knows?  I work mostly CW and have noticed that 
I seem to work the same people over and over again.  One of the reasons I have 
put off buying a new rig is because, I'm wondering about the future of ham 
radio myself.  I'm not interested in the digital modes even though I have the 
SSB board installed in my K2.


Gary, N7HTS


On Wed, 15 Oct 2008 05:50:10 +
 Marinus Loewensteijn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


K2 lovers, please your input.

There is a rather high chance that I will loose my vision due to health 
issues that sofar have proven to be irreversible. I am attempting to make the 
best use of the time while I am still able.


Am a CW addict and do not care about SSB. Had a good look around and could 
not find a reasonable priced CW transceiver with QSK. (I just sold my TenTec 
Omni 546C which I had intended to keep going for the next 30 years but it 
needs maintenance and drive adjustments which made it not a good "future 
proof" solution. Tentec's new rigs are out of my price range.) 

Would have ordered the K1 if it was not for local requirements dictating a 
strong front end.


The string front end requirements resulted in the basic K2 with noise 
blanker kit being purchased.  (the proven performance / reliability and the 
ability to do local repair also played a large part in the decision. ) There 
is no intention going to QRO level (due to health considerations).


This setup will suit me FB for the immediate future. However I have some 
questions and like to invite your thoughts.


1) In light of the fact that technology never rests makes me wonder about 
the future of CW. Do I need to invest in the SSB module so that I am able to 
switch to digital modes should this be required or do you all expect CW to be 
around for a long time to come?


2) For those under you who are perfectionists: what do you do with all those 
holes in the back that are not used or the labels above / below the buttons 
that have no meaningfull function behind them (e.g. the ANT 1/2 , ALC, VOX ) 
If using this as a pure CW rig and no meainingfull use for the microphone 
connector, do you still have it there (just for show?) or did you do 
something else with it? Do you fill up the holes with JBweld and then use the 
touchup paint to mask them and paint over the unused labels?


Many thanks in advance, 73, Marinus, ZL2ML 




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Re: [Elecraft] noise

2008-10-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jacek,

I don't think it is a behavior of the K3, but that turning the PS 125 on 
is creating a noise which is somehow being coupled into the K3.  It may 
or may not be a problem with the PS 125.


The noise may be radiated from the PS 125 or it is being conducted into 
the K3 on the power cord or some other cable plugged into the K3.  It is 
also possible that there is a ground loop that is being formed by 
something that is connected to the K3.  It could even be the power 
supply that is connected to the K3 is creating the ground loop by 
connecting the negative power supply output onto the mains safety ground 
(Astron and some other power supplies do that and can cause such trouble).
To find out which, remove all cables from the K3 one at a time (except 
the antenna and power) checking after each one to see if the noise is 
still present - include any ground wires in this test. Finally, if the 
noise is still present, connect the K3 to a shielded dummy load with a 
short length of coax.  If the noise disappears, it is being radiated and 
being picked up by the antenna connected to the K3.
If the noise still persists with only the dummy load attached, it is 
most likely being coupled onto the K3 power cord.  Power the K3 from a 
battery such as a gel cell or automotive type battery to test.  The K3 
should now be completely isolated and the noise should not be present.  
If it is, you can look for the problem in the K3.  Be certain all the 
fasteners in the K3 are securely tightened as a first step.


73,
Don W3FPR 


Jacek Kubiak wrote:


Hi folks,

 

I have noticed strange noise level in my K3 when  switch on my  Icom 
 756PROII with PC125. When Power supply PS 125 is  switched off again 
noise  disappear. Is it normal K3 behavior?


How about to use power switching type of supply to K3 in such situation??

Any comments on that??

Jacek Kubiak



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RE: [Elecraft] K2 #06602 under construction

2008-10-15 Thread Darwin, Keith
Sorry to hear of your vision issues Marinus.
 
CW - I believe CW will be around for a long time to come.  We don't do
CW because it is the best way to get a message through but because it is
the most fun way to get a message through.  If ham radio becomes SSB and
Digital only, I'll QRT.
 
The SSB module for the K2 is a low cost add-on and makes the rig more
pleasant to listen to when you're copying WWVH.  For the CW op, it gives
no benefit at all.  I wouldn't bother with it unless you think you want
it or want to make sure you get one now while you can.
 
My K2 was a basic unit.  The extra holes in the back were covered with
tape on the inside from the factory and I left them that way.  I did not
bother to paint over the unused labels.  I've always had rigs with some
missing options so having buttons or knobs that do nothing is normal for
me.
 
The K2 is a wonderful CW rig, 2nd only to the K3 IMHO.
 
73!
 
- Keith N1AS -
- K3 711 -



There is a rather high chance that I will loose my vision due to health
issues that sofar have proven to be irreversible. I am attempting to
make the best use of the time while I am still able.
 
Am a CW addict and do not care about SSB. Had a good look around and
could not find a reasonable priced CW transceiver with QSK. (I just sold
my TenTec Omni 546C which I had intended to keep going for the next 30
years but it needs maintenance and drive adjustments which made it not a
good "future proof" solution. Tentec's new rigs are out of my price
range.) 
 
1) In light of the fact that technology never rests makes me wonder
about the future of CW. Do I need to invest in the SSB module so that I
am able to switch to digital modes should this be required or do you all
expect CW to be around for a long time to come?
 
2) For those under you who are perfectionists: what do you do with all
those holes in the back that are not used or the labels above / below
the buttons that have no meaningfull function behind them (e.g. the ANT
1/2 , ALC, VOX ) If using this as a pure CW rig and no meainingfull use
for the microphone connector, do you still have it there (just for
show?) or did you do something else with it? Do you fill up the holes
with JBweld and then = use the touchup paint to mask them and paint over
the unused labels?

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[Elecraft] noise

2008-10-15 Thread Jacek Kubiak
Hi folks,

 

I have noticed strange noise level in my K3 when  switch on my  Icom
756PROII with PC125. When Power supply PS 125 is  switched off again noise
disappear. Is it normal K3 behavior? 

How about to use power switching type of supply to K3 in such situation??

Any comments on that??

Jacek Kubiak

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