Re: [Elecraft] K3 External ALC Mod

2009-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
Roy,

Yes, they are relatively critical.  Only one minor point - they do not 
"produce" - 4 volts of ALC, instead, they allow an ALC voltage of up to 
-4 volts (from the amplifier) to be translated to the positive ALC 
voltage required by the internal circuits in the K3.

If you skip to the photo on page 4, the location of the cut and the end 
of the 137k resistor may be more apparent to you because the annotations 
are not present.

73,
Don W3FPR

Roy Morris wrote:
> The mod revision sheet of the digital IO board shows the 69.8K 
> soldered to pin #1, and the 100K soldered to pin #20.  The remaining 
> leads of these two resistors appear to be soldered to pin #9 along 
> with one end of the 137K.   The other end of the 137K goes to who 
> knows where.
> The cut trace does not show clearly what trace is to be cut and where 
> the 137K terminates.  It is also unclear if the 69.8K, 100K and the 
> 137K resistors are just soldered to each other or are terminated to 
> Pin #9.
> Why is it necessary to use 1% resistors?  Are these values critical to 
> produce -4 volts of ALC? 
> Roy Morris  W4WFB
> 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Alpha 99 Interface to K3

2009-02-12 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
I have an Alpha 99.  I connect through a Microham MK2R+ but the radio and
will work great together.  No special cables.  

Don't bother with the alc.  The keying line will key the amp FB.

Mike W0MU 


"A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over." Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of kr6g
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 8:50 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Alpha 99 Interface to K3


Looks like it should be ok with no interface. Would like to hear from
someone who has all ready done it. Hope to fire it up this weekend.

Alex kr6g
K3 1485
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[Elecraft] Elecraft QSO Party (EQP): March 14-15, 2009

2009-02-12 Thread wayne burdick
Please join us for the Elecraft QSO party, 1800z March 14 to 1800z 
March 15, 2009. It's open to everyone -- no Elecraft rig required. 
Complete rules can be found at

 http://www.elecraft.com/Awards/eqp_2009.htm
The object is to have fun, work old and new friends, work new S/P/C's 
(States/Provinces/Countries), and optionally collect some Elecraft rig 
serial numbers.

You can also work toward an Elecraft WAS or CC award:

 http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_awards.htm

If you have comments about the EQP rules, please send them to me 
(n...@elecraft.com).

73,
Wayne, N6KR
Eric, WA6HHQ


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[Elecraft] Alpha 99 Interface to K3

2009-02-12 Thread kr6g

Looks like it should be ok with no interface. Would like to hear from someone
who has all ready done it. Hope to fire it up this weekend.

Alex kr6g
K3 1485
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[Elecraft] K3 External ALC Mod

2009-02-12 Thread Roy Morris
The mod revision sheet of the digital IO board shows the 69.8K soldered to pin 
#1, and the 100K soldered to pin #20.  The remaining leads of these two 
resistors appear to be soldered to pin #9 along with one end of the 137K.   The 
other end of the 137K goes to who knows where.
The cut trace does not show clearly what trace is to be cut and where the 137K 
terminates.  It is also unclear if the 69.8K, 100K and the 137K resistors are 
just soldered to each other or are terminated to Pin #9.
Why is it necessary to use 1% resistors?  Are these values critical to produce 
-4 volts of ALC?  
Roy Morris  W4WFB__
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Re: [Elecraft] Crystal filter locations on main and sub receivers?

2009-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
James,

The filters can be put in either way.  I just think it is easier to put 
them in the same slots for the main and sub - it is easier to remember 
that FL3 is the 2.7kHz filter that way since that fact applies to both 
the main and the sub.

73,
Don W3FPR

KC2UEE wrote:
> Dear group,
>  
> I know that matched crystals are required for diversity receive, 
> however should the placement of the crystals in their slots also be 
> the same between both receivers?
>  
> For example, I will have 13, 6, 2.7, and 500 on the main starting with 
> FL1 to FL4.  The sub will only have the 13, 2.7, and 500 filters.  
> Should the 13, 2.7 and 500 filters be placed inFL1, FL3 and FL4 
> respectively while leaving FL2 blank to match the locations of the 
> filters on the main receiver?
>  
> 73,
> James KC2UEE
>  
> P.S. Ordered my kit today, and already got my invoice.  I was told it 
> should be shipping tomorrow!!!
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2, kio2,kat100

2009-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
Brett,

Yes, the KAT2 HiPwr indicator only comes on when the KPA100 switches in 
(that happens at power levels of 11 watts or more) - without the KPA100 
it will always be in low power.
There is no difference in tuning, it is only an indicator.

73,
 Don W3FPR

Brett Gazdzinski wrote:
> I received part of my order to combine the kat100 and the kpa100 into the 
> ec2 box, I got the rs232 interface and the kat100, and built both, no 
> problems, no missing parts, as usual.
> One thing I notice though, when I adjust the power of the k2 past 10 watts, 
> the kat100 tuner does not change to hi power.
> Does it only do that if I have the kpa100?
>
> Everything else works like it should, antenna a/b, tunes my alpha delta 
> dx-lb-plus to at least a 1.3 to 1 on all bands.
>
> Time to order the 160 meter and noise blanker options!
> The alpha delta does 160, and the street light out front of my house goes on 
> and off causing a racket in my radio!
>
> I also did the ssb filter bandwidth mod, SSB sounds REAL nice!
>
> Who needs a K3!
>
> Brett
> N2DTS
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Crystal filter locations on main and sub receivers?

2009-02-12 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Either will work just fine. Your choice. Just configure the radio to match
where the filters are physically plugged.

 

The 13 kHz FM filter MUST be in Main FL 1 if you wish to transmit FM.

 

 

Sounds like a nice radio!

 

73

Dick, K6KR

 

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of KC2UEE
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 5:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Crystal filter locations on main and sub receivers?

 

Dear group,

 

I know that matched crystals are required for diversity receive, however
should the placement of the crystals in their slots also be the same between
both receivers?

 

For example, I will have 13, 6, 2.7, and 500 on the main starting with FL1
to FL4.  The sub will only have the 13, 2.7, and 500 filters.  Should the
13, 2.7 and 500 filters be placed inFL1, FL3 and FL4 respectively while
leaving FL2 blank to match the locations of the filters on the main
receiver?

 

73,

James KC2UEE

 

P.S. Ordered my kit today, and already got my invoice.  I was told it should
be shipping tomorrow!!!

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Re: [Elecraft] K2, kio2,kat100

2009-02-12 Thread Jim Wiley

Brett -


The KPA-100 and KAT-100 must be powered up before the K2, or at least at 
the same time, or the "high power"   indicator on the KAT-100 will not 
come on,  and also (I think) the actual changeover  to put the amplifier 
"on line" will not occur.   An artifact of the way the KIO2 works, I think.


However, if you don't actually have the amplifier installed, I suspect 
that the symptoms you see are normal.


- Jim, KL7CC



Brett Gazdzinski wrote:
> One thing I notice though, when I adjust the power of the k2 past 10 watts, 
> the kat100 tuner does not change to hi power.
> Does it only do that if I have the kpa100?
>
>   
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[Elecraft] Crystal filter locations on main and sub receivers?

2009-02-12 Thread KC2UEE
Dear group,

I know that matched crystals are required for diversity receive, however
should the placement of the crystals in their slots also be the same between
both receivers?

For example, I will have 13, 6, 2.7, and 500 on the main starting with FL1
to FL4.  The sub will only have the 13, 2.7, and 500 filters.  Should the
13, 2.7 and 500 filters be placed inFL1, FL3 and FL4 respectively while
leaving FL2 blank to match the locations of the filters on the main
receiver?

73,
James KC2UEE

P.S. Ordered my kit today, and already got my invoice.  I was told it should
be shipping tomorrow!!!
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[Elecraft] K2, kio2,kat100

2009-02-12 Thread Brett Gazdzinski
I received part of my order to combine the kat100 and the kpa100 into the 
ec2 box, I got the rs232 interface and the kat100, and built both, no 
problems, no missing parts, as usual.
One thing I notice though, when I adjust the power of the k2 past 10 watts, 
the kat100 tuner does not change to hi power.
Does it only do that if I have the kpa100?

Everything else works like it should, antenna a/b, tunes my alpha delta 
dx-lb-plus to at least a 1.3 to 1 on all bands.

Time to order the 160 meter and noise blanker options!
The alpha delta does 160, and the street light out front of my house goes on 
and off causing a racket in my radio!

I also did the ssb filter bandwidth mod, SSB sounds REAL nice!

Who needs a K3!

Brett
N2DTS


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Timing

2009-02-12 Thread Neal



Neal wrote:
> 
> Conratulations David, you have discovered that the default Iambic keying
> mode is mode A.  Thanks to Wayne who prefers mode A.  I also prefer mode
> A.
> 
> The Japanese rigs give you only mode B whether you want it or not.
> 
> Enjoy your K3.
> 
> Neal, WA6OCP
> K3 #305
> 
> 
> David Gilbert wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> OK,  I know this is a strange (possibly even stupid) question, but I'm 
>> going to ask it anyway.
>> 
>> I've owned my new K3 for just a couple of weeks now, having upgraded 
>> (boy, have I upgraded) from an Icom 756Pro.  I tend to mostly operate 
>> CW, albeit primarily for DXing and contesting rather than ragchewing.  
>> Using the same paddle (old Bencher dual lever) with no change in 
>> adjustments, there seems to be a different feel when keying the K3.  The 
>> timing seems to be more forgiving and the feel seems just a bit 
>> "thicker".  I've been fairly active for a long time, and it actually 
>> kind of surprised me the first time I keyed the rig.  I typically 
>> operate around 28 WPM.
>> 
>> So is that just my imagination, or has anyone else noticed a 
>> difference?  I'm wondering whether Elecraft has possibly used a 
>> different timing algorithm when polling the key versus other rigs.
>> 
>> Snickering will be accepted gracefully ...
>> 
>> 73,
>> Dave   AB7E
>> 
>> 
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> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keying Timing

2009-02-12 Thread Neal

Conratulations David, you have discovered that the default Iambic keying mode
is mode A.  Thanks to Wayne who prefers mode A.  I also prefer mode A.

The Japanese rigs give you only mode B whether you want it or not.

Enjoy your K3.

Neal, WA6OCP
K3 #305


David Gilbert wrote:
> 
> 
> OK,  I know this is a strange (possibly even stupid) question, but I'm 
> going to ask it anyway.
> 
> I've owned my new K3 for just a couple of weeks now, having upgraded 
> (boy, have I upgraded) from an Icom 756Pro.  I tend to mostly operate 
> CW, albeit primarily for DXing and contesting rather than ragchewing.  
> Using the same paddle (old Bencher dual lever) with no change in 
> adjustments, there seems to be a different feel when keying the K3.  The 
> timing seems to be more forgiving and the feel seems just a bit 
> "thicker".  I've been fairly active for a long time, and it actually 
> kind of surprised me the first time I keyed the rig.  I typically 
> operate around 28 WPM.
> 
> So is that just my imagination, or has anyone else noticed a 
> difference?  I'm wondering whether Elecraft has possibly used a 
> different timing algorithm when polling the key versus other rigs.
> 
> Snickering will be accepted gracefully ...
> 
> 73,
> Dave   AB7E
> 
> 
> __
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[Elecraft] K3 Keying Timing

2009-02-12 Thread David Gilbert

OK,  I know this is a strange (possibly even stupid) question, but I'm 
going to ask it anyway.

I've owned my new K3 for just a couple of weeks now, having upgraded 
(boy, have I upgraded) from an Icom 756Pro.  I tend to mostly operate 
CW, albeit primarily for DXing and contesting rather than ragchewing.  
Using the same paddle (old Bencher dual lever) with no change in 
adjustments, there seems to be a different feel when keying the K3.  The 
timing seems to be more forgiving and the feel seems just a bit 
"thicker".  I've been fairly active for a long time, and it actually 
kind of surprised me the first time I keyed the rig.  I typically 
operate around 28 WPM.

So is that just my imagination, or has anyone else noticed a 
difference?  I'm wondering whether Elecraft has possibly used a 
different timing algorithm when polling the key versus other rigs.

Snickering will be accepted gracefully ...

73,
Dave   AB7E


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX EQ Not saving on power down

2009-02-12 Thread Lyle Johnson
Hi!

> The below is the procedure I use to activate TX EQ. TX EQ does not save 
> when powered off. (I am not changing mode or band).  Also RX EQ setting 
> becomes the same as TX EQ and vice versa.  Both are changed to what ever 
> EQ number is selected. No matter if you do it from TX eq or RX 
> eq. Anyone else see this?  Support is working on it. Running fimware 2.78
>  
> 1. Select EQ5 by touching the kepad number 5 after  you are in  menu 
> item TX EQ. 
>  
> 2. Tap menu again to go back to read out.
>  
> 3. Go back to menu item EQ and the selection of EQ5 is still there. Tap 
> menu to return to freq reading. (and RX EQ has been changed to EQ 5 also)
>  
> 4. Turn off power.  Turn on power.  Tap menu.  Find TX EQ.  It is now 
> set back to EQ 1 not EQ 5.

The number reported following "TX EQ" or "RX EQ" is the frequency band 
that is being equalized, not the setting of the equalizer.

To demonstrate that the EQ *settings* are in fact saved, insert these steps:

1a) rotate VFO A to clockwise so VFO B's display reads " 0.80  +2". The 
fifth location in VFO A will be two parallel horizontal lines " = " 
showing that the 800 Hz frequency range has been boosted slightly.

4a) Note that the fifth location in VFO A is still two parallel 
horizontal lines " = " showing that the 800 Hz frequency range has been 
boosted slightly.  Thus, the adjustments made before cycling power are 
saved through power cycles.

---

What has *not* been saved is the fact that the last frequency band you 
were *adjusting* was band 5.  Thus "TX EQ 1" is displayed, showing that 
any adjustment you make will be to frequency band 1 (50 Hz).  Simply tap 
keypad 5 to go back to adjusting the 800 Hz frequency band.

Finally, while in TX EQ adjust mode, press the CLR button near the RIT 
knob to restore the default (flat) EQ settings.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX EQ Not saving on power down

2009-02-12 Thread wayne burdick
Jerry,

The EQ frequency bin to change is not saved. Only the *changes* to 
selected EQ bins is changed. Once you've tapped '5', for example, 
you're in that bin, but you then have to move VFO A to adjust the gain 
for that bin. This will be saved.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Feb 12, 2009, at 2:11 PM, k4...@juno.com wrote:

> Hi K3ers:
>  
> The below is the procedure I use to activate TX EQ. TX EQ does not 
> save when powered off. (I am not changing mode or band).  Also RX EQ 
> setting becomes the same as TX EQ and vice versa.  Both are changed to 
> what ever EQ number is selected. No matter if you do it from TX eq or 
> RX eq. Anyone else see this?  Support is working on it. Running 
> fimware 2.78
>  

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] K3 TX EQ Not saving on power down

2009-02-12 Thread k4...@juno.com
Hi K3ers: The below is the procedure I use to activate TX EQ. TX EQ does not 
save when powered off. (I am not changing mode or band).  Also RX EQ setting 
becomes the same as TX EQ and vice versa.  Both are changed to what ever EQ 
number is selected. No matter if you do it from TX eq or RX eq. Anyone else see 
this?  Support is working on it. Running fimware 2.78   1. Select EQ5 by 
touching the kepad number 5 after  you are in  menu item TX EQ.  2. Tap menu 
again to go back to read out. 3. Go back to menu item EQ and the selection of 
EQ5 is still there. Tap menu to return to freq reading. (and RX EQ has been 
changed to EQ 5 also) 4. Turn off power.  Turn on power.  Tap menu.  Find TX 
EQ.  It is now set back to EQ 1 not EQ 5.  Thanks, Jerry, K4DZR  

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Re: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

2009-02-12 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
I will be on in tonight's NECK Sprint practice 0230 to 0300 with a K3 and
Hail mic.  20/40/75 meters.

They work great. 


"A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over." Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 1:56 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

I apologize if this has been covered but I couldn't find anything in the
archives. 

I currently have the "standard" Pro Set Plus with the HC-4/HC-5 elements and
the AD-1Y Yaesu adapter for my FT-990.

Two questions:
Can the HC-4/HC-5 be used with the K3?
Is the Kenwood adapter the correct one?

I don't have a K3 yet but seriously considering one.  I've never had a new
rig and I've certainly never had anything approaching it's capabilities.

73 de Terry KK6T
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Re: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

2009-02-12 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
The newer headsets come standard with a 1/8 plug for the mic. 


"A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over." Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick Dievendorff
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 2:20 PM
To: 'Terry'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

Yes, the Heil Proset Plus with HC-4/HC5 elements can be used with the K3.

Yes, the Kenwood adapter is the correct one if you prefer front-panel
connection of your microphone to the K3.  The Heil adapter is an AD-1 K.
It's red, and has an 8-pin Foster plug.

Alternatively, you plug the 1/8" microphone connector from the Heil headset
directly into the K3 back panel mic connector, making an adapter
unnecessary.  

However the back panel phone jack is a 1/8" stereo connector, which makes
plugging a 1/4" stereo plug a bit unwieldy.  Flexible "pigtail" adapters
exist, but they're clumsy and rigid adapters 1/4" to 1/8" adapters may
stress the 1/8" jack excessively.

I ended up with a Heil headset that came with a 1/8" stereo plug for the
headphones with an adapter for 1/4" when I need the larger size.

73 de Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 12:56 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

I apologize if this has been covered but I couldn't find anything in the
archives. 

I currently have the "standard" Pro Set Plus with the HC-4/HC-5 elements and
the AD-1Y Yaesu adapter for my FT-990.

Two questions:
Can the HC-4/HC-5 be used with the K3?
Is the Kenwood adapter the correct one?

I don't have a K3 yet but seriously considering one.  I've never had a new
rig and I've certainly never had anything approaching it's capabilities.

73 de Terry KK6T
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[Elecraft] Accessibility aids...

2009-02-12 Thread Greg Buhyoff
Wayne and Eric and the Elecraft Group,

What a class actsimply said, what a phenomenally class act...no
other way to say or top it.

73, Greg K2UM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdie Screenshots

2009-02-12 Thread Bill Johnson
That was supposed to be 29.267  I must be 6/9 impaired J

 

 

73,

 

Bill

K9YEQ

K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill Johnson
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 3:14 PM
To: 'David Gilbert'
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdie Screenshots

 

Dave,

 Great idea with the screen shots.  I have had the same success with the
Signal removal tool.  I have had only one that left a slight artifact on
26.267 mHz that really isn't an issue for my operation as it doesn't
interfere with my mode of operation and the width is only 50 Hz once I got
finished with it.  If it were in the way of anything, the tool that Wayne
has designed can be used to move the artifact.  The other two I have removed
so far are gone, period.  For what remains, the Auto Notch control takes
care of the rest.  Manual notch could also be used if one were on CW at that
Freq. which IMHO is unlikely.

 

73,

 

Bill

K9YEQ

K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Gilbert
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 2:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Birdie Screenshots

 


I've been beta testing using the new SIG RMV feature that Wayne developed
for shifting birdies out of the passband, and I must say I'm extremely
impressed.  It is very effective, and after addressing a handful of birdies
I found it very easy to use as well.  I have been able to totally remove all
of the birdies I considered even remotely an issue.  Where else would users
be able to expect that kind of support??

I've received quite a lot of feedback (all of it constructive, by the way) ,
though, that suggests that I am either being overly critical regarding what
I hear or that there may be a hardware problem (poor ground or other) with
my particular K3.  I would happily recalibrate my thinking if it is the
former, but I'd like to rule out the latter as well.  For that, we need a
less subjective assessment.

With a standard 1/8" audio cable from the Line Out connector of the K3 to
the Line In connector on my computer sound card, together with the free and
easy to use Spectrogram application
(http://www.visualizationsoftware.com/gram.html), it is quite simple get a
spectrum display of any birdie relative to the background noise in the
passband.  Spectrogram even lets you take screenshots directly from within
the application.  So I went back and found one of the birdies I had removed
with SIG RMV and cleared the settings to let the birdie sing again.  I've
uploaded the resulting Spectrogram screenshot to PhotoBucket, and it should
be viewable simply by clicking on the link below.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee141/xazdave/K3Birdie-7124r890.jpg

The frequency for this particular birdie is 7124.890 KHz, the mode was LSB,
the DSP passband was 2.2 KHz, the roofing filter was 2.8 Khz, the preamp was
OFF, and the antenna connector was terminated in a precision 50 ohm load.
The display indicates a birdie strength approximately 30 db greater than the
background audio noise level, although I wouldn't place too much credence in
the accuracy of that.  This birdie was roughly S2 (two solid bars) on the K3
S-meter, and it's one of six birdies of similar strength I had on 40m before
removing them with SIG RMV.

Comments or suggestions ...  even rude ones ;)    would be appreciated,
particularly if anyone is willing to compare a Spectrogram plot for the
loudest birdie from their rig under similar conditions.

73,
Dave   AB7E








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Re: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

2009-02-12 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Yes, the Heil Proset Plus with HC-4/HC5 elements can be used with the K3.

Yes, the Kenwood adapter is the correct one if you prefer front-panel
connection of your microphone to the K3.  The Heil adapter is an AD-1 K.
It's red, and has an 8-pin Foster plug.

Alternatively, you plug the 1/8" microphone connector from the Heil headset
directly into the K3 back panel mic connector, making an adapter
unnecessary.  

However the back panel phone jack is a 1/8" stereo connector, which makes
plugging a 1/4" stereo plug a bit unwieldy.  Flexible "pigtail" adapters
exist, but they're clumsy and rigid adapters 1/4" to 1/8" adapters may
stress the 1/8" jack excessively.

I ended up with a Heil headset that came with a 1/8" stereo plug for the
headphones with an adapter for 1/4" when I need the larger size.

73 de Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Terry
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 12:56 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

I apologize if this has been covered but I couldn't find anything in the 
archives. 

I currently have the "standard" Pro Set Plus with the HC-4/HC-5 elements 
and the AD-1Y Yaesu adapter for my FT-990.

Two questions:
Can the HC-4/HC-5 be used with the K3?
Is the Kenwood adapter the correct one?

I don't have a K3 yet but seriously considering one.  I've never had a 
new rig and I've certainly never had anything approaching it's capabilities.

73 de Terry KK6T
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Re: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

2009-02-12 Thread Lyle Johnson
> I currently have the "standard" Pro Set Plus with the HC-4/HC-5
> elements...
>
> Two questions:
> Can the HC-4/HC-5 be used with the K3?

I can answer the first one: Yes.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

2009-02-12 Thread dalspaugh
Yes, you can even plug it into the back of the rig and not even need an 
adapter. 


73 Doug N3QW 



- Original Message - 
From: "Terry"  
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 3:56:02 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5 

I apologize if this has been covered but I couldn't find anything in the 
archives. 

I currently have the "standard" Pro Set Plus with the HC-4/HC-5 elements 
and the AD-1Y Yaesu adapter for my FT-990. 

Two questions: 
Can the HC-4/HC-5 be used with the K3? 
Is the Kenwood adapter the correct one? 

I don't have a K3 yet but seriously considering one. I've never had a 
new rig and I've certainly never had anything approaching it's capabilities. 

73 de Terry KK6T 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdie Screenshots

2009-02-12 Thread Bill Johnson
Dave,

 Great idea with the screen shots.  I have had the same success with the
Signal removal tool.  I have had only one that left a slight artifact on
26.267 mHz that really isn't an issue for my operation as it doesn't
interfere with my mode of operation and the width is only 50 Hz once I got
finished with it.  If it were in the way of anything, the tool that Wayne
has designed can be used to move the artifact.  The other two I have removed
so far are gone, period.  For what remains, the Auto Notch control takes
care of the rest.  Manual notch could also be used if one were on CW at that
Freq. which IMHO is unlikely.

 

73,

 

Bill

K9YEQ

K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Gilbert
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 2:56 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Birdie Screenshots

 


I've been beta testing using the new SIG RMV feature that Wayne developed
for shifting birdies out of the passband, and I must say I'm extremely
impressed.  It is very effective, and after addressing a handful of birdies
I found it very easy to use as well.  I have been able to totally remove all
of the birdies I considered even remotely an issue.  Where else would users
be able to expect that kind of support??

I've received quite a lot of feedback (all of it constructive, by the way) ,
though, that suggests that I am either being overly critical regarding what
I hear or that there may be a hardware problem (poor ground or other) with
my particular K3.  I would happily recalibrate my thinking if it is the
former, but I'd like to rule out the latter as well.  For that, we need a
less subjective assessment.

With a standard 1/8" audio cable from the Line Out connector of the K3 to
the Line In connector on my computer sound card, together with the free and
easy to use Spectrogram application
(http://www.visualizationsoftware.com/gram.html), it is quite simple get a
spectrum display of any birdie relative to the background noise in the
passband.  Spectrogram even lets you take screenshots directly from within
the application.  So I went back and found one of the birdies I had removed
with SIG RMV and cleared the settings to let the birdie sing again.  I've
uploaded the resulting Spectrogram screenshot to PhotoBucket, and it should
be viewable simply by clicking on the link below.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee141/xazdave/K3Birdie-7124r890.jpg

The frequency for this particular birdie is 7124.890 KHz, the mode was LSB,
the DSP passband was 2.2 KHz, the roofing filter was 2.8 Khz, the preamp was
OFF, and the antenna connector was terminated in a precision 50 ohm load.
The display indicates a birdie strength approximately 30 db greater than the
background audio noise level, although I wouldn't place too much credence in
the accuracy of that.  This birdie was roughly S2 (two solid bars) on the K3
S-meter, and it's one of six birdies of similar strength I had on 40m before
removing them with SIG RMV.

Comments or suggestions ...  even rude ones ;)    would be appreciated,
particularly if anyone is willing to compare a Spectrogram plot for the
loudest birdie from their rig under similar conditions.

73,
Dave   AB7E









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Re: [Elecraft] K3 aux receive antenna input

2009-02-12 Thread Gary Smith
> 4) It looks "right".  (Don't laugh. A lot of expensive stuff is purchased
> because it "looks right" regardless of performance - or lack thereof:
> everything from homes, cars, boats and aircraft to Ham rigs.)


Spouse.





cough...

Gary
KA1J

At a Bluegras Festival in Massachusetts...

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Birdie Screenshots

2009-02-12 Thread DC1RS

makes me more and more "wanna have" ;-)
I'm really looking forward to the release of this firmware!

73 de Roland, DC1RS

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Birdie-Screenshots-tp231p2317823.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2-XV222 RFI Susceptibility Problems - a solution found

2009-02-12 Thread Steve Kavanagh
That filter has pretty much the same attenuation at 50 MHz as my homebrew one, 
so yes, it should work fine.  Mine has better match at 28 MHz, at the expense 
of not as good match at lower frequencies.  I ended up with the following, 
after some tweaking

My filter is a two section low-pass pi-network.  The two inductors are both 7 
turns #22 AWG enamelled wire on T30-6 cores.  The capacitors to ground at the 
input and output are both 166 pf (91 pF and 75 pF dipped silver-mica caps in 
parallel).  The capacitor to ground at the junction of the two coils is 309 pF 
(270 pF and 39 pf dipped silver-mica caps in parallel).  Measured > 30 dB 
return loss and < 0.5 dB insertion loss over 27-30 MHz (mind you my measurement 
setup probably isn't really accurate enough to reliably measure 30 dB return 
losses).  Also > 30 dB attenuation at 50 MHz.

When I try modelling the filter with SPICE I get only a fair agreement with 
measurements.  I think the lead length and other strays are not insignificant.  
So if anyone else builds one, be prepared for some tweaking if you want best 
performance.

The K2/K60XV now (after tweaking) likes the impedance it's seeing and can 
provide full 1 mW output with the filter mounted right at the output of the 
K60XV and a few feet of 50 ohm cable to the transverter.

73,
Steve VE3SMA


--- On Thu, 2/12/09, wayne burdick  wrote:

> Minicircuits makes a 30 MHz in-line (BNC) low-pass filter
> that should do just as well, for those who don't want to
> roll their own: their model #BLP-30+. See:
> 
>   
> http://www.minicircuits.com/cgi-bin/modelsearch?search_type=info&model=BLP-30%2B
> 
> I would recommend this filter if anyone has similar RFI
> problems with any transverter, used with either a K2 or K3.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR



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[Elecraft] Proset Plus HC-4/HC-5

2009-02-12 Thread Terry
I apologize if this has been covered but I couldn't find anything in the 
archives. 

I currently have the "standard" Pro Set Plus with the HC-4/HC-5 elements 
and the AD-1Y Yaesu adapter for my FT-990.

Two questions:
Can the HC-4/HC-5 be used with the K3?
Is the Kenwood adapter the correct one?

I don't have a K3 yet but seriously considering one.  I've never had a 
new rig and I've certainly never had anything approaching it's capabilities.

73 de Terry KK6T
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[Elecraft] K3 Birdie Screenshots

2009-02-12 Thread David Gilbert


I've been beta testing using the new SIG RMV feature that Wayne 
developed for shifting birdies out of the passband, and I must say I'm 
extremely impressed.  It is very effective, and after addressing a 
handful of birdies I found it very easy to use as well.  I have been 
able to totally remove all of the birdies I considered even remotely an 
issue.  Where else would users be able to expect that kind of support??


I've received quite a lot of feedback (all of it constructive, by the 
way) , though, that suggests that I am either being overly critical 
regarding what I hear or that there may be a hardware problem (poor 
ground or other) with my particular K3.  I would happily recalibrate my 
thinking if it is the former, but I'd like to rule out the latter as 
well.  For that, we need a less subjective assessment.


With a standard 1/8" audio cable from the Line Out connector of the K3 
to the Line In connector on my computer sound card, together with the 
free and easy to use Spectrogram application 
(http://www.visualizationsoftware.com/gram.html), it is quite simple get 
a spectrum display of any birdie relative to the background noise in the 
passband.  Spectrogram even lets you take screenshots directly from 
within the application.  So I went back and found one of the birdies I 
had removed with SIG RMV and cleared the settings to let the birdie sing 
again.  I've uploaded the resulting Spectrogram screenshot to 
PhotoBucket, and it should be viewable simply by clicking on the link below.


http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee141/xazdave/K3Birdie-7124r890.jpg

The frequency for this particular birdie is 7124.890 KHz, the mode was 
LSB, the DSP passband was 2.2 KHz, the roofing filter was 2.8 Khz, the 
preamp was OFF, and the antenna connector was terminated in a precision 
50 ohm load.  The display indicates a birdie strength approximately 30 
db greater than the background audio noise level, although I wouldn't 
place too much credence in the accuracy of that.  This birdie was 
roughly S2 (two solid bars) on the K3 S-meter, and it's one of six 
birdies of similar strength I had on 40m before removing them with SIG RMV.


Comments or suggestions ...  even rude ones ;)    would be 
appreciated, particularly if anyone is willing to compare a Spectrogram 
plot for the loudest birdie from their rig under similar conditions.


73,
Dave   AB7E








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[Elecraft] Visit Elecraft at Orlando this weekend

2009-02-12 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Dateline: DFW Airport (Dallas)

Between flights wolfing down a quick meal..

If you were wondering why I was up so early this morning ppsting to the list, 
you now know why. Traveling across the US means getting up early in Aptos to 
get to the airport. ;-)

We're on our way to the Orlando Hamfest. Come on by and visit with us at the 
Elecraft booth Fri-Sun. I'll be there with our collection of K3s, K2s, K1s, 
KX1s etc to demo and answer questions. Plus, orders placed at the show ship 
right away. :-)

73,

Eric  WA6HHQ
_..._

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Accessibility aids

2009-02-12 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I think that is just fantastic news and yet again shows the lengths to  
which Elecraft (and co) go to support it's user community.
Thank you Dick. I'm fortunate enough not to need these facilities at  
this present time.
BUT I'm always heedful of 'there, but for the grace of God, go I'
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
Black holes are where God divided by zero.
-Steven Wright, comedian (1955-)

On 12 Feb 2009, at 16:54, Dick Dievendorff wrote:

> I'm currently working on three different initiatives to aid access  
> to K3
> capabilities for all of us:
>
> 1) K3 Voice, an update to K2 Voice. This is a Windows program that  
> provides
> on-demand aural feedback (with Eric Swartz's voice) of K3 control  
> settings
> and, optionally, automatic aural feedback when controls are  
> changed.  A
> prototype of K3 Voice was shown at the Consumer Electronics Show in  
> Las
> Vegas.
>
> The K3 has a substantial number of controls and configuration  
> settings, and
> we're currently expanding from K2 Voice capabilities to the K3 "normal
> operation" set of controls toward configuration control.  The task  
> is huge
> and will evolve over time.
>
> 2) I'm working to improve the K3's Utility's accessibility so that  
> it can be
> used with a screen reader and no mouse. I have two blind K3 owners  
> that are
> evaluating tentative changes and are not shy about making  
> recommendations.
> They were particularly critical of the Crystal Filter configuration  
> page
> which is almost impossible to use without a mouse.
>
> 3) A CW memory editor (a dialog with within the K3 Utility) that  
> helps CW
> enthusiasts who have difficulty manipulating a paddle to set the K3's
> internal CW memories using a computer keyboard.  Frankly I'll use  
> this one
> myself...
>
> Expect to see some of these features later this month.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: A nice black cover to hide the front panel MIC socket

2009-02-12 Thread Bill NY9H

>  black vinyl cover caps made for SO-239 connectors:snap tightly over
>the mic socket.

these work great...

i use the red version to put on mic connectors of several rigs that 
are receive only ...
(  and sharing a receive multicoupler ) to remind me  DON'T PLUG 
A MIC HERE...after snuffing the Q in the multicoupler.

BILL 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2-XV222 RFI Susceptibility Problems - a solution found

2009-02-12 Thread wayne burdick
Hi Steve,

Minicircuits makes a 30 MHz in-line (BNC) low-pass filter that should  
do just as well, for those who don't want to roll their own: their  
model #BLP-30+. See:

 
http://www.minicircuits.com/cgi-bin/modelsearch? 
search_type=info&model=BLP-30%2B

I would recommend this filter if anyone has similar RFI problems with  
any transverter, used with either a K2 or K3.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


> From: Steve Kavanagh 
> Subject: [Elecraft] K2-XV222 RFI Susceptibility Problems
>
> A couple of weeks ago I posted here regarding a problem whereby
> transmitting on my 6m rig cause my XV222 (connected to K2/K60XV) to
> key
> up.
>
> It appears that if any moderate amount of stray RF ends up on the
> tranmit
> IF line (probably due to imperfect shielding of the transverter rear
> panel
> jacks), this power is then detected by the power detector diode on
> the
> K60XV
> board, which then apparently triggers the K2 to switch the state of
> the
> 8R
> line.  This then keys the transverter.

> I have found a solution which works at my home station.  That is to
> put
> a
> filter in the transmit IF line which passes 28 MHz but does not pass
> 50
> MHz.


---

http://www.elecraft.com




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[Elecraft] Terminal for Mac Users

2009-02-12 Thread KM5Q
Me too.  Sometime in the past year there was indication on this list  
that there are a large number of Mac users with K3's. I was surprised  
how many, but don't remember where that was mentioned.

Windy KM5Q


> Add me to the list of Mac users who would like the Terminal program  
> for my
> K3.  (I don't understand why it was left out in the first place.)
>
> Robert
> KI4ZHF
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 aux receive antenna input

2009-02-12 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Such small loops have worked very well. However, they are becoming more and
more difficult to use indoors than ever before. Some of the most difficult
QRN/QRM sources are right in our homes and their number increases every
year. (I'm typing this message on one of the most prolific QRN sources
today, but your refrigerator, washing machine, furnace and even many lights
are just a few examples of others we have in our homes.) 

While a loop can be oriented so as to put a source of interference in a null
(assuming the desired signal is not in the same direction), all too often
our homes have multiple sources of QRN or the QRN is being propagated along
the house wiring so it is, indeed, coming from all directions at once if the
antenna is inside or near the house. 

Before investing a significant amount of money in any indoor antenna, it
might be worthwhile to string up a simple loop on, say, a wall, using a few
push-pins. For a smaller test antenna, wrap a number of turns of hook up
wire around a large cardboard square or circle. You can tape it in place
near the periphery of a disk cut from a box. Hook one lead to the center pin
of the antenna connector and the other to the chassis. It's not necessary to
resonate the loop, but you can if you have a variable cap about. Put it
across in series with the loop and adjust the turns to get a peak across the
most interesting frequencies. Resonance provides some gain but gain is not
an issue with a decent receiver. You can hear all that you'll ever hear as
long as the QRN level rises when you connect the antenna to the rig. 

Compare that to even a modest outdoor antenna and see if you like the
results. If not, you'll not likely be happy with the performance of a more
expensive indoor antenna. And if you do like the results from the indoor
antenna, you may find no significant advantage to using the expensive one,
Hi! 

So why would anyone buy such a loop? Lots of reasons - here's a few:

1) They cannot put up any sort of outdoor antenna. A poor antenna is always
superior to no antenna at all. 

2) They live in a frame or other non-metallic building with few or no
electrical devices inside. 

3) They *must* have a tiny, compact antenna to fit in their space or provide
the portability required. 

4) It looks "right".  (Don't laugh. A lot of expensive stuff is purchased
because it "looks right" regardless of performance - or lack thereof:
everything from homes, cars, boats and aircraft to Ham rigs.)

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

Hi Ted,

Out of curiosity, what broadband antenna are you planning on using?  I am
thinking about purchasing the AOR LA390.  It's a bit on the expensive side,
but from its design, should work well.  Here's a link:

http://www.aorja.com/pdf/LA390.pdf

Do a search for AOR LA390, and you'll find the US based retailer for this
antenna.

73,
James KC2UEE




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: A nice black cover to hide the front panel MIC socket

2009-02-12 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
SO-239 caps work fine, if you want a metal cap that actually screws
on, and can even be had with a chain to attach to the radio.

73, doug

   Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 18:33:12 +
   From: Stephen  Prior 

   Since the size of the thread of the microphone connector is the same as that
   of an SO-239 socket, I have used the black plastic dust cap which came with
   a mobile mount cable assembly.  It just screws into place and is just the
   right colour!

   On 12/02/2009 04:04, "KM5Q"  wrote:

   > 
   > I got tired of reaching around the mic plug on the front panel, so I
   > made an adapter to plug mic and PTT into the rear. Then I got tired of
   > seeing the empty mic socket. I found a perfect way to hide it, and
   > seal if from intrusion. It looks real fine!
   > 
   > I used one of these black vinyl cover caps made for SO-239 connectors:
   > 
http://www.dxengineering.com/Parts.asp?ID=1159&PLID=16&SecID=127&DeptID=36&Par
   > tNo=DXE%2DVC%2D0612
   > 
   > You need to cut a cap shorter. Slip it over a wooden rod. Using a
   > sharp blade, cut around the cap to make it half the original depth.
   > Now fold it part-way back to stretch it, and it will snap tightly over
   > the mic socket.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: A nice black cover to hide the front panel MIC socket

2009-02-12 Thread Stephen Prior
Since the size of the thread of the microphone connector is the same as that
of an SO-239 socket, I have used the black plastic dust cap which came with
a mobile mount cable assembly.  It just screws into place and is just the
right colour!

Thanks for giving me the idea Windy!

73  Stephen G4SJP


On 12/02/2009 04:04, "KM5Q"  wrote:

> 
> I got tired of reaching around the mic plug on the front panel, so I
> made an adapter to plug mic and PTT into the rear. Then I got tired of
> seeing the empty mic socket. I found a perfect way to hide it, and
> seal if from intrusion. It looks real fine!
> 
> I used one of these black vinyl cover caps made for SO-239 connectors:
> http://www.dxengineering.com/Parts.asp?ID=1159&PLID=16&SecID=127&DeptID=36&Par
> tNo=DXE%2DVC%2D0612
> 
> You need to cut a cap shorter. Slip it over a wooden rod. Using a
> sharp blade, cut around the cap to make it half the original depth.
> Now fold it part-way back to stretch it, and it will snap tightly over
> the mic socket.
> 
> You CW-only guys should really like this.
> 
> Windy KM5Q
> 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 aux receive antenna input

2009-02-12 Thread Jim Brown
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:32:44 -0800 (PST), KC2UEE wrote:

>It's a bit on the expensive side, but from its design, should work well.

A bit? $380 plus tax and shipping is a lot to pay for a box that replaces 
something you can build for a few dollars!  Unless you're hoping the loop 
will reject RX noise, a hunk of wire works fine with a K3! And a loop will 
reject ONE noise source at a time. 

Your money would be far better spent on a copy (even an older one) of the 
ARRL Antenna Book, which includes several receive loops you can build. 
K9AY has an extensive website devoted to RX antennas, and N6RK has also 
published a nice design that's easy to build. W8JI's website includes info 
on winding matching transformers for RX antennas. My website includes info 
on ferrite chokes to minimize RX noise (and lots of other tutorial 
material in RFI).

73,

Jim Brown K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 aux receive antenna input

2009-02-12 Thread KC2UEE

Hi Ted,

Out of curiosity, what broadband antenna are you planning on using?  I am
thinking about purchasing the AOR LA390.  It's a bit on the expensive side,
but from its design, should work well.  Here's a link:

http://www.aorja.com/pdf/LA390.pdf

Do a search for AOR LA390, and you'll find the US based retailer for this
antenna.

73,
James KC2UEE



AMFMTV wrote:
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I don't plan on installing the second receiver in my K3 as my operating
> habits don't require it, but I was wondering if there are any future plans
> to include a receive only antenna option for K3's without the KRX3?? That
> I could use very nicely with a broadband amplified short antenna.
> 
> Thanks!?? 73.
> Ted Alexander? W8IXY
> 
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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Re%3A-K3-aux-receive-antenna-input-tp2315809p2316270.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line

2009-02-12 Thread Tom Hammond
The K3's T-R line output ("KEY OUT") can switch up to 200VDC @ 5A... so it will
easily switch the +120VDC @ 15-30mA from the SB-220.

However, it will NOT SWITCH a NEGATIVE T-R line voltage UNDER ANY 
CIRCUMSTANCES!
Users with amps which offer a negative T-R line control voltage will have to
provide alternate switching (relay, or solid state).

73,

Tom   N0SS

>phones, mic,
>line in, and line out


At 10:13 02/12/2009, Lee Buller wrote:


>H  I thought the transistor on the K3 doing the switching is 
>pretty tough.  I guess we are talking about older amps and not the 
>ones that use 12 volts to switch.
>
>I have done the following to  Radio Shack sells a 5v reed relay 
>that is pretty darn fast and has good specs.  I just used a dropping 
>resistor from a 12 volt line in series with the reed relay and 
>worked great for years.  I think I used a 180 ohm resistor.  Worked 
>great.  Not QSK, but I don't like QSK anyway.  Messes with my head.  HI
>
>Lee Buller - K0WA
>
>
>
>In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If 
>you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. 
>If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who 
>has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 configuration finalization plus diversity receive antenna question

2009-02-12 Thread Bruce McLaughlin
Okay.  You plan to use it on the HF bands and not the FM broadcast band.  I
guess I jumped to an unwarranted conclusion about that.  I'm sure you will
enjoy your new radio very much.  I hope to hear you on the air in their
future.

 

Bruce-W8FU

 

From: James Sarte [mailto:kc2...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:37 PM
To: 'Bruce McLaughlin'
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 configuration finalization plus diversity receive
antenna question

 

Hi Bruce,

 

No, the 13KHz filter will be used for AM SW/MW/LW reception, not FM on the
sub.  The other FM filter on the main will only be used for 10m FM TX/RX.

 

Here's an excerpt from a conversation I had with another fellow regarding
the use of FM filters for AM broadcast reception:

 

> Just to make sure I understand you, the AM filter is only required if 

> one desires to transmit in AM or use ESSB.

> Otherwise, AM reception like SW can still be piped through the 13KHz 

> FM filter?

 

Correct, I use the FM filter for listening to AM broadcast or SWL on a
fairly regular basis. 

 

> How does the audio of AM SW sound going through the FM filter?  

> Bandwidth is obviously wider, so I'm assuming higher fidelity?

 

Somewhat higher fidelity.  The K3's DSP has a fairly sharp cutoff at 4200 Hz
so you will never get more than that but the FM filter allows the full 4.5
KHz where the AM filter starts to roll off at 3 KHz but still has some audio
response down the filter skirts.  I hope that someday Elecraft will "open
up" the audio in AM so we can hear 5.5 or 6 KHz which as good as it gets
these days. 

 

Hope that helps to clarify.  

 

73,

James KC2UEE

 

  _  

From: Bruce McLaughlin [mailto:bmcla...@bex.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:27 PM
To: 'James Sarte'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 configuration finalization plus diversity receive
antenna question

 

That sounds like a well-rounded package, although, I'm a bit confused by
your plan to use the FM filter on the sub receiver for broadcast reception.
The K-3 will not go to the FM broadcast band and I don't think you can get
there using a transverter either.  Also, the 13 kHz roofing filter, and the
DSP are not really wide enough for broadcast FM.  The 15 kHz deviation is
such that I think you will have considerable distortion on a system designed
for a maximum of 5 kHz deviation if it is recognizable at all.  I could be
mistaken about that, but you may want to check with others.  I also wonder
if you could save a bit of money by having only one 13 kHz filter installed
on the main receiver.  Assuming it will work for FM broadcast reception,
unless you plan to listen to FM broadcasts for long periods of time, I would
think using the main receiver for that purpose would probably be sufficient.
It also could be used for FM transmission on the ham bands.  As I am sure
you know, you cannot transmit using the sub receiver.  I have 2 K3s.  The
older unit has an FM filter installed in the main receiver.  The newest unit
has no FM receiver filter since my use of FM is likely to be very limited
and certainly not at all until 10 meters begins to work again.  But your
plans may be different and you may have different needs.

 

Bruce-W8FU

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 aux receive antenna input

2009-02-12 Thread Lyle Johnson
> ... I was wondering if there are any future 
> plans to include a receive only antenna option for K3's without the 
> KRX3?

The KXV3 option provides this feature and a few more :-)

73,

Lyle KK7P
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[Elecraft] K3 Accessibility aids

2009-02-12 Thread Dick Dievendorff
I'm currently working on three different initiatives to aid access to K3
capabilities for all of us:

1) K3 Voice, an update to K2 Voice. This is a Windows program that provides
on-demand aural feedback (with Eric Swartz's voice) of K3 control settings
and, optionally, automatic aural feedback when controls are changed.  A
prototype of K3 Voice was shown at the Consumer Electronics Show in Las
Vegas.

The K3 has a substantial number of controls and configuration settings, and
we're currently expanding from K2 Voice capabilities to the K3 "normal
operation" set of controls toward configuration control.  The task is huge
and will evolve over time.

2) I'm working to improve the K3's Utility's accessibility so that it can be
used with a screen reader and no mouse. I have two blind K3 owners that are
evaluating tentative changes and are not shy about making recommendations.
They were particularly critical of the Crystal Filter configuration page
which is almost impossible to use without a mouse.

3) A CW memory editor (a dialog with within the K3 Utility) that helps CW
enthusiasts who have difficulty manipulating a paddle to set the K3's
internal CW memories using a computer keyboard.  Frankly I'll use this one
myself...

Expect to see some of these features later this month.

73 de Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: "David Ferrington, M0XDF" 
Date: Thursday, Feb 12, 2009 12:02 am
Subject: [Elecraft] Specific button feedback (was: terminal window in k3
utility)
To: wayne burdick 
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Perhaps it's time for us sighted ops wanting firmware features and  
additions etc. to take a step back and give Elecraft some time to  
introduce some form of feedback for our fellow ops with vision  
problems. I have no idea what would work best, but perhaps something  
sent in Morse? That does assume all non-sighted ops can read Morse.

An alternative would be a dedicated control program for the K3  
specifically designed to implement EVERY function of the rig (CONFIG  
menu and all) and give audible feedback.
Again I don't know how that would be done or how best, but I would  
guess the UI would need to be completely mouse-less.

We are so lucky to have the use of the K3 and be sighted, and the  
great response from Elecraft to all our whims and whines. It wouldn't  
hurt for us to let that consolidate with use for a while and allow the  
K3 to be used by those less fortunate than ourselves.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade
they know they shall never sit in. -Greek proverb


On 12 Feb 2009, at 06:49, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Bob,

> There are 2 'modes' - the first is DATA mode set by the MODE switch,  
 and
 the second is the type of data mode set by the DATA MD button.

> The K3 must be in DATA mode, and to use the paddles for transmit, the
 DATA mode must be set for PSK D (psk31) or FSK D (rtty).

> I am not certain how hams like you and Gary would know the correct
 setting for the mode and DATA MD unless you first have a sighted  
 helper
 or other assist to read the display.

> 73,
 Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 aux receive antenna input

2009-02-12 Thread amfmtv
Hello!

I don't plan on installing the second receiver in my K3 as my operating habits 
don't require it, but I was wondering if there are any future plans to include 
a receive only antenna option for K3's without the KRX3?? That I could use very 
nicely with a broadband amplified short antenna.

Thanks!?? 73.
Ted Alexander? W8IXY
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[Elecraft] Shipping case

2009-02-12 Thread Greg - AB7R
With email traffic referring to shipping cases it reminded me I have a very 
nice 
case suitable for aircraft cargo shipping that I have not been using.  A K3 
will 
fit but its kind of a tight fit and you would need to re-do the foam inside the 
case.

A K2 and some accessories would fit just fine.  Here is a link to the cases.  
Its 
the same manufacturer but I am not sure off the top of my head what the exact 
dimensions are.  I can measure it and take pics this evening if anyone is 
interested.

If someone wants it I would sell it for $100 plus shipping.

http://www.starcase.com/detail.aspx?ID=2134

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line

2009-02-12 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
There are solid-state relays in a DIP-6 or a SOP-4 package that can fit most
places and are fast.  Check out the NEC PS7113 or PS7141, and similar
devices.

73, doug

   X_CMAE_Category: 0,0 Undefined,Undefined
   Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:00:27 -0500
   From: Don Wilhelm 

   Terry,

   For those who prefer not to touch the K3 with a soldering iron, an 
   external 12 volt relay is a good solution.  Obtain the power from the 
   K3  12VDC OUT jack and use KEYOUT  to key the relay.  It accomplishes 
   the same thing and retains the ability to use QSK in the future without 
   'undoing' the internal relay.

   73,
   Don W3FPR

   w...@comcast.net wrote:
   >
   > I've seen numerous posts about the PTT output line on the K3 and using 
   > older amps. Yaesu's, Kenwood's, Icom's all share the same issue.
   >
   >  
   >
   > Unless you are running QSK and need instant keying, I would suggest 
   > adding a small 12v relay inside the K3 that the solid state device 
   > keys and presents the user with a set of dry, isolated contacts that 
   > can handle positive, negative and up to 250v DC or AC. I have added 
   > this to several K3's to protect the switching transistor from eventual 
   > destruction. Once again, if you are using QSK, solid state due to it's 
   > fast switching time is your only option.
   >
   >  
   >
   > Yes, it means touching your K3 with a hot soldering iron, but it's a 
   > "pay me now or pay me later" thing, sooner or later it will blow the 
   > switch if you are hooking up older or HB amps that use other than low 
   > current positive keying voltages.
   >
   >  
   >
   > Terry
   >
   >
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 rear panel question

2009-02-12 Thread Richard Ferch
Gary,

I assume the diagrams in the manual didn't make it through the text
conversion process.

The RCA jack beside the power pole connector is a 12 VDC power output for
supplying power to accessories.

If you have the KRX3 second receiver, there may be a BNC connector above the
power pole connector for a receive antenna for the second receiver. If you
have neither the KRX3 or the KXV3, then there are no separate receive
antenna inputs on your K3.

The 3.5 mm jacks below the RS232 and ACC ports are, from left to right
facing the back of the radio:
- external speaker (stereo)
- headphones (stereo or mono)
- microphone input (mono)
- line in (mono)
- line out (stereo)

Note regarding the speaker output: If you set CONFIG:SPKRS to 1, you can use
a mono plug. However, if you have CONFIG:SPKRS set to 2, then unless your K3
has the recent AF Output mod fitted, plugging a mono speaker plug into the
external speaker output could damage the AF amp chip.

The headphone jack does not have this problem; it is safe to plug mono
headphones into the headphone jack.

As for the line out, if you do not have a KRX3 then only the left channel
will be carry an audio signal.

73,
Rich VE3KI

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line

2009-02-12 Thread Lee Buller


H  I thought the transistor on the K3 doing the switching is pretty 
tough.  I guess we are talking about older amps and not the ones that use 12 
volts to switch.

I have done the following to  Radio Shack sells a 5v reed relay that is 
pretty darn fast and has good specs.  I just used a dropping resistor from a 12 
volt line in series with the reed relay and worked great for years.  I think I 
used a 180 ohm resistor.  Worked great.  Not QSK, but I don't like QSK anyway.  
Messes with my head.  HI

Lee Buller - K0WA



In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
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[Elecraft] K3 Birdies

2009-02-12 Thread Larry

Waynes firmware seems to work very well in eliminating "birdies". As he has
noted it envolves shifting the 1st LO and BFO slightly [less than 100Hz]
which in turn moves the "birdie" some 1 to 2 KHz.
As usual Elecraft [Wayne] resolved this likely solution --PDQ-- once the
"problem" was identifed/defined.
He even made a house call to demonstrate its effectiveness on Wedensday.

While it is still in Beta test it appears to provide a reasonable fix.  
Elecraft will likely release more soon.
Thanks Wayne for the prompt response and personal help.
Larry w6od
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Birdies-tp2315686p2315686.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line

2009-02-12 Thread Paul Christensen
> "Unless you are running QSK and need instant keying, I would suggest adding a 
> small 12v relay inside the K3 that the solid state device keys and presents 
> the user with a set of dry, isolated contacts that can handle positive, 
> negative and up to 250v DC or AC."

And bring 250VAC into the case of the K3?  If a relay is used instead of a 
solid-state device, it should be located external to the K3 cabinet, especially 
with 100-250VAC key lines.  

The output switching device from the K3 can already switch 200VDC at 5A.  For 
those switching medium-voltage AC/DC amp key lines, or want additional 
rig-to-amp isolation, a more viable option is to use a solid-state external 
interface.  There are several commercial interfacing products available in both 
assembled and kit form.  

My personal favorite is the "KeyAll" from Jackson Harbor Press.  It is 
optically-isolated from the rig and will switch 500 VAC/VDC at 2.5 A loads.

http://home.att.net/~jacksonharbor/keyall.htm

Paul, W9AC


  

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Re: [Elecraft] Terminal for Mac users

2009-02-12 Thread Jack Brindle
You don't have to bet on this one, the sources are available. It is  
indeed written in Cocoa using Objective-C.

Chen's code is excellent - he is an outstanding engineer, AND a K3 user!

You may also want to check out his CocoaNec project. It provides  
antenna analysis at the same level as the

Windows pay-for software, but free!

On Feb 11, 2009, at 11:42 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:


And although not a big user of cocoaModem, I'll second that sentiment,
Chen puts a lot into his software. And being an ex-Apple engineer, you
can bet it's 100% cocoa and done 'the right way'. You should look at
some of the other software there too, all good stuff.


- Jack Brindle, W6FB
-


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line

2009-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
Terry,

For those who prefer not to touch the K3 with a soldering iron, an 
external 12 volt relay is a good solution.  Obtain the power from the 
K3  12VDC OUT jack and use KEYOUT  to key the relay.  It accomplishes 
the same thing and retains the ability to use QSK in the future without 
'undoing' the internal relay.

73,
Don W3FPR

w...@comcast.net wrote:
>
> I've seen numerous posts about the PTT output line on the K3 and using 
> older amps. Yaesu's, Kenwood's, Icom's all share the same issue.
>
>  
>
> Unless you are running QSK and need instant keying, I would suggest 
> adding a small 12v relay inside the K3 that the solid state device 
> keys and presents the user with a set of dry, isolated contacts that 
> can handle positive, negative and up to 250v DC or AC. I have added 
> this to several K3's to protect the switching transistor from eventual 
> destruction. Once again, if you are using QSK, solid state due to it's 
> fast switching time is your only option.
>
>  
>
> Yes, it means touching your K3 with a hot soldering iron, but it's a 
> "pay me now or pay me later" thing, sooner or later it will blow the 
> switch if you are hooking up older or HB amps that use other than low 
> current positive keying voltages.
>
>  
>
> Terry
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Custom Skins

2009-02-12 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Hello Jim:

 

I don’t know of any. In developing any “skin” or other protective enclosure, be 
aware that the bottom plate of the K2 must be open to free air movement to 
radiate heat from the 10 watt power output transistors and the top of the 
K2/100 must have unimpeded air flow, not just away from the black fins of the 
heat sink itself, but air flows into the back of the K2 driven by the little 
fan, flows through the 100 watt amp inside and comes out between the heat sink 
fins at the front.

 

Covering the K2 isn’t an issue for transport, of course, and there is a 
supplier of very nice carrying bags right here on the reflector, but you can 
kill the 10 watt and 100 watt power transistors if it’s operated with something 
around it that restricts air movement. 

 

The K2’s external finish is an extremely durable powder coating that is rather 
hard to damage. 

 

Ron AC7AC

 

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Giercyk
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 9:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Custom Skins

 

Hello all,

Has anyone created a protective custom skin for the K2?  I was thinking that a 
vinyl skin for the top and bottom of the K2 would be a nice addition that would 
keep the enclosure from being scratched.  It's the same idea as a skin on a 
cell phone.  Of course it would be different for the K2 with the KPA, as the 
heat sink would require a different shape.  The idea would also work for the K1 
as well.  Has anyone done this, and if not does anyone know where such a thing 
can be developed?  Thanks,

Jim

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Re: [Elecraft] terminal window in k3 utility

2009-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rich,

That is an excellent solution - I don't normally use the K3 Utility 
Command Tester or Terminal window for things like that, so I just did 
not think of it.  I am more of a 'knobs and buttons' guy except when I 
am running digital modes.

Along that same line, it may be that visually impaired K3 operators may 
do well to download and study the K3 Programmer's Reference manual to 
see if issuing commands through K3Utility or other terminal programs 
would be an easy way to set up the K3 for any particular set of 
operating conditions.  Setting up macros/memories in K3 Utility may also 
be helpful.

73,
Don W3FPR

Richard Ferch wrote:
> There are software commands that can be used to select any of the K3's four
> data submodes.
>
> The DT0; command selects DATA A, DT1; selects AFSK A, DT2; selects FSK D and
> DT3; selects PSK D.
>
> If you are using the K3 Utility, you can use the Command Tester to send one
> of these commands to ensure that the K3 is in the desired data submode.
>
> 73,
> Rich VE3KI
>
> Don W3FPR wrote:
>
>   
>> I am not certain how hams like you and Gary would know the correct 
>> setting for the mode and DATA MD unless you first have a sighted helper 
>> or other assist to read the display.
>> 
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line

2009-02-12 Thread w8zn


I've seen numerous posts about the PTT output line on the K3 and using older 
amps. Yaesu's, Kenwood's, Icom's all share the same issue. 



Unless you are running QSK and need instant keying, I would suggest adding a 
small 12v relay inside the K3 that the solid state device keys and presents the 
user with a set of dry, isolated contacts that can handle positive, negative 
and up to 250v DC or AC. I have added this to several K3's to protect the 
switching transistor from eventual destruction. Once again, if you are using 
QSK, solid state due to it's fast switching time is your only option. 



Yes, it means touching your K3 with a hot soldering iron, but it's a "pay me 
now or pay me later" thing, sooner or later it will blow the switch if you are 
hooking up older or HB amps that use other than low current positive keying 
voltages. 



Terry 


- Original Message - 
From: "Greg - AB7R"  
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net, 'ba...@mailman.qth.net, "Stephen'" 
 
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 10:18:50 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line 

Barry, The key out line on the K3 on not on a sub assembly, it is on the main 
RF board. Im not sure of the relay on the SB220 but I suspect you may need to 
use one of those AmpKeyer interfaces that the HeathGuy or Ameritron sells just 
to be safe...or brew your own. It depends on the voltage requirement of the 
amp's relay. - 73, Greg - AB7R Whidbey Island WA NA-065 
On Thu Feb 12 7:13 , "Barry, Stephen" sent: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 
>I���m a long time builder/operator of an early K2 (s/n >377) and have 
considered going for the K3/10. > >�� > >I would use my SB220 occasionally for 
more power since I can >get approx. 200 watts with 12 watts in. > >�� > >The 
question I have is there a PA key line available from >the basic K3? ��Or, is 
that circuitry on the KPA3 subassembly? > >If so, has anyone found a way to key 
an amp with the basic K3? > >�� > >I enjoy reading the list serve and the good 
advice from some >of the O/T submitters such as W2FPR, AC7AC and N0SS.�� Thanks 
> >guys. > >�� > >I���d ask the Elecraft guys but I don���t want to >bother 
them while they���re cranking out K3s. > >�� > >73. > >�� > >Steve/AE2G > >�� > 
>�� > > > > > > 
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 rear panel question

2009-02-12 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Gary,

That rca next to the power pole connector is a 12 volt output for  
powering accessories.  Don't think you want to plug an antenna into  
that!

The small jacks below the serial and accessory connectors, from left  
to right as you're facing the rear panel are: speaker, phones, mic,  
line in, and line out.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Feb 12, 2009, at 7:11 AM, Gary Lee wrote:

> I have the ten watt k3 without the kxv3.
>
> I assume the rca next to the power pole is the receive antenna.
> What is the order of the 3.5 mm jacks below the serial and accessory  
> ports?
>
> Thanks for the help.

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Re: [Elecraft] k3 rear panel question

2009-02-12 Thread Gary Lee
Thanks Greg.  I neglected to say that I am blind, so can't use the pics in 
the manual.
However, Greg got the order correct.  Tested with a small speaker.
Thanks all.  This is one of the best lists I am on.

73

- Original Message - 
From: "Greg - AB7R" 
To: "Gary Lee" 
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 rear panel question


Gary,

The RCA near the power pole is for a 12V of an accessory you can  power from 
the K3.
Withouth the KXV3 there is no RX only antenna.

I suggest looking at the FAQ or the manul of the K3 available free online at 
the
Elecraft website.  I am not at my radio right now but from memory the 3.5mm 
jack from
left to right are:  EXT SPKR, PHONES, MIC, LINE IN, LINE OUT.  But check the 
manual to
be sure.

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Thu Feb 12  7:11 , 'Gary Lee'  sent:

>I have the ten watt k3 without the kxv3.
>
>I assume the rca next to the power pole is the receive antenna.
>What is the order of the 3.5 mm jacks below the serial and accessory ports?
>
>Thanks for the help.
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[Elecraft] K3 Automatic Transmitter Calibration with TXG Error

2009-02-12 Thread Bob DeHaney
I am performing this procedure with the ATU in Bypass, on K3 S/N 906 using
the very latest versions of all firmware and the K3 utility.  

While performing the 5 Watt calibration at 1.9 MHz I get a good 1.01 VSWR
into my dummy load and an indicated 5 Watts but "Error TXG".

Also on the 5 Watt calibration on 50 MHz I get an "Unexpected result and an
ascii string, with power settled at 4.4 Watts".  The calibration procedure
then concludes and the rig displays "Error TXG".

At 50 Watts the calibration completes successfully with no errors.

What to do?

Vy 73, Bob DJ0MBC/WU5T





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Re: [Elecraft] k3 rear panel question

2009-02-12 Thread w8zn


NO NO NO  Do not plug an external rx antenna in to that jack It is a 
12V DC output!!! 



There is no aux rx jack if you don't have a KXV3. 



The rear panel layout is on page 4 of the owners manula. 



Terry 


- Original Message - 
From: "Gary Lee"  
To: "elecraft list"  
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 10:11:42 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [Elecraft] k3 rear panel question 

I have the ten watt k3 without the kxv3. 

I assume the rca next to the power pole is the receive antenna. 
What is the order of the 3.5 mm jacks below the serial and accessory ports? 

Thanks for the help. 
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K3 for sale

2009-02-12 Thread Van Kuykendall
For sale Elecraft K3 serial number 1520 factory built. It has the 2.8  
firmware installed. Comes with all options but sub receiver, DVR, and  
400hz filter and hand mic. Perfect condition. Box and owners manual.  
$2750.00 shipped conus. Contact off list at n5...@newwavecomm.net or 
870-239-1479 
.
Thanks,
Van N5HTY
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line

2009-02-12 Thread Greg - AB7R
Barry,

The key out line on the K3 on not on a sub assembly, it is on the main RF board.

Im not sure of the relay on the SB220 but I suspect you may need to use one of 
those AmpKeyer interfaces that the HeathGuy or Ameritron sells just to be 
safe...or 
brew your own.  It depends on the voltage requirement of the amp's relay.

-
73,
Greg - AB7R
Whidbey Island WA
NA-065


On Thu Feb 12  7:13 , "Barry, Stephen"  sent:

>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> 
>  
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>I’m a long time builder/operator of an early K2 (s/n
>377) and have considered going for the K3/10.
>
> 
>
>I would use my SB220 occasionally for more power since I can
>get approx. 200 watts with 12 watts in.
>
> 
>
>The question I have is there a PA key line available from
>the basic K3?  Or, is that circuitry on the KPA3 subassembly?
>
>If so, has anyone found a way to key an amp with the basic K3?
>
> 
>
>I enjoy reading the list serve and the good advice from some
>of the O/T submitters such as W2FPR, AC7AC and N0SS.  Thanks 
>
>guys.
>
> 
>
>I’d ask the Elecraft guys but I don’t want to
>bother them while they’re cranking out K3s.
>
> 
>
>73.
>
> 
>
>Steve/AE2G
>
> 
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>


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[Elecraft] K3 external qro keying line

2009-02-12 Thread Barry, Stephen
I'm a long time builder/operator of an early K2 (s/n 377) and have
considered going for the K3/10.

 

I would use my SB220 occasionally for more power since I can get approx.
200 watts with 12 watts in.

 

The question I have is there a PA key line available from the basic K3?
Or, is that circuitry on the KPA3 subassembly?

If so, has anyone found a way to key an amp with the basic K3?

 

I enjoy reading the list serve and the good advice from some of the O/T
submitters such as W2FPR, AC7AC and N0SS.  Thanks 

guys.

 

I'd ask the Elecraft guys but I don't want to bother them while they're
cranking out K3s.

 

73.

 

Steve/AE2G

 

 

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[Elecraft] k3 rear panel question

2009-02-12 Thread Gary Lee
I have the ten watt k3 without the kxv3.

I assume the rca next to the power pole is the receive antenna.
What is the order of the 3.5 mm jacks below the serial and accessory ports?

Thanks for the help.
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Re: [Elecraft] terminal window in k3 utility

2009-02-12 Thread Richard Ferch
There are software commands that can be used to select any of the K3's four
data submodes.

The DT0; command selects DATA A, DT1; selects AFSK A, DT2; selects FSK D and
DT3; selects PSK D.

If you are using the K3 Utility, you can use the Command Tester to send one
of these commands to ensure that the K3 is in the desired data submode.

73,
Rich VE3KI

Don W3FPR wrote:

> I am not certain how hams like you and Gary would know the correct 
> setting for the mode and DATA MD unless you first have a sighted helper 
> or other assist to read the display.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sub and Main Synchronization

2009-02-12 Thread Tom, N5GE
On Wed, 11 Feb 2009 14:23:59 -0800, you wrote:

>Have you set the filter offsets to the same value? 
>
>Andreas, N6NU
>

Andreas,

Thank you.  I had not thought of that.  I tried it and was able the
improve the synch.

Thanks for the help OM

73

Tom, N5GE

K3 806
XV144
XV432

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

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[Elecraft] Terminal for Mac Users

2009-02-12 Thread Robert Klein
Add me to the list of Mac users who would like the Terminal program for my
K3.  (I don't understand why it was left out in the first place.)

Robert
KI4ZHF


On 2/12/09 1:37 AM, "elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net"
 wrote:

> As a long suffering Macintosh user I was pleasantly surprised when I
> discovered that Elecraft actually makes a version of the K3 utility
> available for us Mac users. However my original euphoria was tempered
> a bit when I discovered "our version" was missing the very useful
> Terminal program. I'd like to encourage Elecraft to add that
> capability to the Mac software. After all, we are K3ers too and would
> appreciate having the same advantages given to our Microsoft brothers.
> 
> Paul N1SEZ


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 unused holes

2009-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
If you download the instructions for the KTS1 Wide Range Tilt Stand, the 
use of those holes will become obvious.

73,
Don W3FPR

Yves Dussault wrote:
> Hi!
> I have a K1, with antenna tuner, noise blanker and internal battery.
> There are two unused holes, one on each side panel, with no screws in them.
> I"m looking in the manuals and I do not see where these holes are 
> mentionned...
> Did I miss something?
>   
>
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[Elecraft] CONFIG: TECH MD

2009-02-12 Thread K2MK
Hi John:

It's kind of like setting your PC to show invisible files. There's always 
the chance that you might mess something up that's why it's not recommended. 
If you're careful when you go into CONFIG you won't mess up any of the more 
technical settings. If you are the careless type you might want to leave 
TECH MD off.

I like to play around with several different CONFIG settings so I allocated 
them to special buttons. Then it only takes one push (or one hold) to bring 
them up. The obvious special function buttons are PF1 and PF2. But if you 
are not using the M1 through M4 buttons for recording purposes you can also 
use them for special features. Instructions are in the manual.

73,
Mike K2MK





On my K3 I often change the AGC -- S setting.  I like 5 for general
listening, but 20 when I'm net control so I don't miss the weak
check-ins.  Each time I go through the menu to first set TECH MD on and
then after making the change, setting TECH MD to off.

Somewhere in the manual it said to turn TECH MD off after you make
changes.  Is this really necessary?  What are the dire consequences of
leaving TECH MD on?  It would save me a couple of steps.

73 de K1ESE
John
 

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[Elecraft] K1 unused holes

2009-02-12 Thread Yves Dussault
Hi!
I have a K1, with antenna tuner, noise blanker and internal battery.
There are two unused holes, one on each side panel, with no screws in them.
I"m looking in the manuals and I do not see where these holes are 
mentionned...
Did I miss something?

-- 
Yves Dussault VE2ATD
Laval, QC, Canada

yvesdussa...@videotron.ca

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] CONFIG: TECH MD

2009-02-12 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

You can leave TECH MD on all the time with no harm to the K3 operation.
The only downside items are that one must scroll through more menu 
items, and there are more chances that the menus may be altered by a 
guest operator not familiar with the K3.

73,
Don W3FPR

John Huffman wrote:
> On my K3 I often change the AGC -- S setting.  I like 5 for general 
> listening, but 20 when I'm net control so I don't miss the weak 
> check-ins.  Each time I go through the menu to first set TECH MD on and 
> then after making the change, setting TECH MD to off.
>   
>
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[Elecraft] K3 Order

2009-02-12 Thread David Robertson
James,

Congratulations on ordering your K3!

It looks like your list of options are complete and you have been doing a lot 
of research. You will love your K3 when it is assembled.

Suggestions:

Be sure you have proper ESD protection when you assemble your K3 and follow the 
manual carefully. When assembling your K3 you might want to install the DSB 
board for the KRX3 and the KDVR3 Board before you install the front panel to 
the RF board. This will eliminate having to remove the front panel later.

If you are having the factory assemble your rig, open it up and carefully 
inspect your radio for any loose modules or parts that may have worked loose 
during shipping. Afterward run a complete test on the K3.

Have fun, you'll love this radio.

73
Dave KD1NA


I'm just about ready to place my order for a K3 (hopefully by tomorrow.yay!)

 

After some good discussions with list members, I think I've finally narrowed
down my option choices:

 

* K3/100 kit
* KAT3 ATU
* KBPF3 gen. cov. Module (1 unit, will be placed on SUB receiver)
* KDVR3 Dig. Voice recorder
* 500Hz 5 pole (2 units, one on each receiver)
* 6KHz filter (1 unit, will be placed on main RF board for ESSB
experimentation)
* 13KHz FM filter (2 units, one on each receiver)
* 40Hz filter matching for 2.7 and 500Hz filters
* KRX3 sub receiver
* KTCXO3-1 1ppm oscillator
* KXV3 xverter interface
* MH2 hand mic

 

I'm mostly an SSB guy, but do play around with PSK31 and RTTY.  I also like
to listen to shortwave broadcast stations.  The sub receiver will get the
gen coverage module plus a 13, 2.7, and 500 filter.  The 2.7 and 500 will be
matched for diversity receive.  The FM filter on the RF board will be used
for 10m repeaters, while the FM filter on the sub will be used for broadcast
reception.

 

I don't know if anyone here has heard of the AOR LA-390 active loop RX
antenna, but I'm thinking this might work well for my diversity experiments.
I'm space limited, and this thing can be kept on my window ledge.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 KSYN3 Installation

2009-02-12 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Yes, the resistor is valid.

Have fun building!

73,

Eric  WA6HHQ
_..._
-Original Message-
From: "Walter V. Gilles" 
Date: Thursday, Feb 12, 2009 12:12 am
Subject: K3/100 KSYN3 Installation
To: Reply-wvgil...@yahoo.comto: e...@elecraft.com


Eric, 
  
You ever sleep?  ;-) 
  
Thanks so much for the info on the J73 pin plug.  By golly, on closer 
observation, I now see that the related hole for the clipped pin (P73-J73) is 
indeed plugged, and that would certainly "key" things up if one were to try to 
install the KYSN3 backwards.  I guess I'll just chalk that oversight up to too 
little light, too old eyes, and too late in the day for me. 
  
As an aside, I also noticed a leaded resistor (maybe 1.5M ohm - old eyes again) 
soldered in between (near) C13 and C69 on the KSYN3 board.  I don't see this in 
any photos either.  Am I good-to-go with this little fellow added on?  Knowing 
you guys, I bet I am. 
  
Thanks ever so much for your personal interest in helping me on this.  You guys 
have just one amazing enterprise there.  Thanks again.  73 
  
Walter, N0DZJ
  


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] CONFIG: TECH MD

2009-02-12 Thread Ed K1EP
I leave it on just about all the time.  I turn it off when I bring 
the radio into a multi-multi environment so that there are less 
choices on the menu for someone to fiddle with by mistake.

At 2/12/2009 07:43 AM, John Huffman wrote:
>On my K3 I often change the AGC -- S setting.  I like 5 for general
>listening, but 20 when I'm net control so I don't miss the weak
>check-ins.  Each time I go through the menu to first set TECH MD on and
>then after making the change, setting TECH MD to off.
>
>Somewhere in the manual it said to turn TECH MD off after you make
>changes.  Is this really necessary?  What are the dire consequences of
>leaving TECH MD on?  It would save me a couple of steps.
>
>73 de K1ESE
>John

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[Elecraft] [K3] CONFIG: TECH MD

2009-02-12 Thread John Huffman
On my K3 I often change the AGC -- S setting.  I like 5 for general 
listening, but 20 when I'm net control so I don't miss the weak 
check-ins.  Each time I go through the menu to first set TECH MD on and 
then after making the change, setting TECH MD to off.

Somewhere in the manual it said to turn TECH MD off after you make 
changes.  Is this really necessary?  What are the dire consequences of 
leaving TECH MD on?  It would save me a couple of steps.

73 de K1ESE
John
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Re: [Elecraft] Specific button feedback (was: terminal window in k3utility)

2009-02-12 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Bob Garrett wrote:
> 
> Hello David,
> 
> Thanks for your note regarding us blind guys.  CW feedback would be 
> excellent and perhaps the simplest solution.  I don't want to have a 
> separate firmware program for blind guys because once developed, it may
> lag 
> the wonderful updates provided in the mainstream firmware.  In my humble 
> opinion, CW feedback for the main menu and the configuration menu would FB 
> and by far more than any other manufacturer has ever offered up.
> 
> 
Depending on how it was done, it could also be useful for those of us who
have to wear reading glasses to see what comes up on the display and who
don't like wearing them all the time. :)

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Specific-button-feedback-%28was%3A-terminal-window-in-k3-utility%29-tp2313604p2314421.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Terminal for Mac Users

2009-02-12 Thread Paul Levin
David that's great news and I for one would be very thankful for the  
inclusion of Terminal to your already excellent program.
Mac users are simply use to not having many applications available and  
never think to ask but I'm sure there are many of us out there who  
look forward to this. On behalf of all of us our many thanks.

Paul N1SEZ




I guess I'll get busy and finish coding the terminal page. :)

Other than a conversation I had with Greg, I don't recall any other  
Mac users mentioning the Terminal. I find it difficult to put much  
effort into something that no one will use. Now that I know it's  
wanted, I'll get it done.

In the meantime, for those wanting to work digital modes on the Mac, I  
HIGHLY recommend you take a look at Kok Chen's cocoaModem. It is, IMO,  
the finest digital mode application out there - on any platform.

David, W4SMT
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Re: [Elecraft] Terminal for Mac users

2009-02-12 Thread Thomas Bingenheimer
I must agree with David Fleming about Cocoamodem - it is the only program I 
currently use for digital modes - a very easy to use, well-thought out program. 
Also, if the mac version of the Utility program included the terminal function, 
I would surely have occasion to use it. Thanks!


  
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Re: [Elecraft] Specific button feedback (was: terminal window in k3utility)

2009-02-12 Thread Bob Garrett
Hello David,

Thanks for your note regarding us blind guys.  CW feedback would be 
excellent and perhaps the simplest solution.  I don't want to have a 
separate firmware program for blind guys because once developed, it may lag 
the wonderful updates provided in the mainstream firmware.  In my humble 
opinion, CW feedback for the main menu and the configuration menu would FB 
and by far more than any other manufacturer has ever offered up.

73,  Bob K3UL 

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Re: [Elecraft] How to set loop delay time for KDVR3

2009-02-12 Thread Maarten van Rossum
Thanks John,

I was searching for it in the config menu... No wonder I couldn't find it.

73, Maarten

2009/2/12 John Lemay 

>  Hi Maarten
>
>
>
> It's in the MAIN MENU, under MSG RPT.
>
>
>
> Have fun !
>
>
>
> John G4ZTR
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:
> elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] *On Behalf Of *Maarten van Rossum
> *Sent:* 12 February 2009 08:37
> *To:* Elecraft Group
> *Subject:* [Elecraft] How to set loop delay time for KDVR3
>
>
>
> Good morning all,
>
>
>
> Maybe it's just me, but I can't seem te figure out how to set the loop
> delay time for the digital voice recorder.
>
> Can someone point me in the right direction?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Maarten van Rossum
>
> PD2R
>
>
> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 3847 (20090212) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] How to set loop delay time for KDVR3

2009-02-12 Thread John Lemay
Hi Maarten

 

It's in the MAIN MENU, under MSG RPT.

 

Have fun !

 

John G4ZTR

 

  _  

From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Maarten van Rossum
Sent: 12 February 2009 08:37
To: Elecraft Group
Subject: [Elecraft] How to set loop delay time for KDVR3

 

Good morning all,

 

Maybe it's just me, but I can't seem te figure out how to set the loop delay
time for the digital voice recorder.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

 

Thanks,

 

Maarten van Rossum

PD2R

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Re: [Elecraft] Thank you Elecraft reflector group!!!

2009-02-12 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> 
> 
> 2) Some claim off-line posts reduces the number of messages, but my
> experience suggests that just the opposite is true. For every question
> asked, there are several wondering the same thing. One answer on the
> reflector answers them all and often even brings up other questions. And
> that's what it's all about.
> 

There is one other reason why this is good advice, and that is that there
are online archives as well as Nabble where reflector messages are stored
for posterity. By answering on-list you are contributing to the knowledge
base. By searching the archives you may find the answer you want without
having to wait for a reply.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Thank-you-Elecraft-reflector-group%21%21%21-tp2312127p2313699.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] How to set loop delay time for KDVR3

2009-02-12 Thread Maarten van Rossum
Good morning all,

Maybe it's just me, but I can't seem te figure out how to set the loop delay
time for the digital voice recorder.
Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Maarten van Rossum
PD2R
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[Elecraft] Specific button feedback (was: terminal window in k3 utility)

2009-02-12 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Perhaps it's time for us sighted ops wanting firmware features and  
additions etc. to take a step back and give Elecraft some time to  
introduce some form of feedback for our fellow ops with vision  
problems. I have no idea what would work best, but perhaps something  
sent in Morse? That does assume all non-sighted ops can read Morse.

An alternative would be a dedicated control program for the K3  
specifically designed to implement EVERY function of the rig (CONFIG  
menu and all) and give audible feedback.
Again I don't know how that would be done or how best, but I would  
guess the UI would need to be completely mouse-less.

We are so lucky to have the use of the K3 and be sighted, and the  
great response from Elecraft to all our whims and whines. It wouldn't  
hurt for us to let that consolidate with use for a while and allow the  
K3 to be used by those less fortunate than ourselves.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
-- 
A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade
they know they shall never sit in. -Greek proverb


On 12 Feb 2009, at 06:49, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Bob,
>
> There are 2 'modes' - the first is DATA mode set by the MODE switch,  
> and
> the second is the type of data mode set by the DATA MD button.
>
> The K3 must be in DATA mode, and to use the paddles for transmit, the
> DATA mode must be set for PSK D (psk31) or FSK D (rtty).
>
> I am not certain how hams like you and Gary would know the correct
> setting for the mode and DATA MD unless you first have a sighted  
> helper
> or other assist to read the display.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR


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