[Elecraft] New

2009-04-04 Thread Andy
Hi all after a few hours yesterday (most of the day) & help from my brother Jim 
M0CKE I now have a K3/100 up & running. QTH here is 5 miles North of Wisbech in 
Cambs.
I'll join in the net when I can but I'm busy some Sunday mornings.

Thanks Andy (M0CHK)
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Band button suggestion

2009-04-04 Thread ON4WIX
I've actually had the same thing happen here once or twice when attempting 
to record or play back some audio with my K3's DVR. I managed to change the 
contents of my M1-M4 freq/mode memories while fiddling with the DVR. 
Operator error of course. Some sort of software "lock" that can be turned on 
after programming your quick memories would be nice to prevent this from 
happening. Or maybe I should just engage my brain before hitting the keypad, 
hi.

Enjoy your Sunday everyone!

73
Glenn ON4WIX
- Original Message - 
From: "Erik N Basilier" 
To: ; 
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 6:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Band button suggestion


> Don, I used to have band stacking on my old Yaesu, and now on the K3 I 
> have
> programmed the M buttons to select 3 frequencies in each band. You are
> correct w.r.t. the number of button presses: The K3 always needs two, 
> while
> band stacking requires anything from one to three (if limited to a "stack
> depth" of 3), which makes two on the average. On the other hand, if one 
> has
> only one favorite frequency in a band, band stacking requires only one key
> press to go there. The term "stacking" might be justified by observing 
> that
> the last stored frequency within the band is the first "on top of the
> stack", but on the other hand, when one accesses successive levels on the
> stack nothing pops off, but the stack contents just rotate.
>
> The advantage of band stacking IMHO is that you only need to use eye-hand
> coordination to reach one button, and you are guaranteed to end up on the
> desired band regardless of intentional or non-intentional programming. I
> have yet to reach the "touch typing" proficiency stage w.r.t. the K3
> buttons, and have often re-programmed a memory button when my intention 
> was
> to recall a band. At least once I have lost my M button programming when I
> upgraded firmware. That said, I think the BAND and MODE controls are quite
> convenient, and I use them as often as I use the M buttons.
>
> 73,
> Erik K7TV
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly

2009-04-04 Thread ON4WIX
Frank,

it's not 'on the List' anymore, it's been implemented in F/W for quite a 
while now. You can read all about it if you search for "quick memories" in 
the pdf version of the K3 User Manual. You can find all details on page 16, 
about halfway down the left column ("Memories 00-09 are quick memories).

Works like a charm, especially with the four "in band" memories M1-M4 which 
you can use to store different frequencies & modes within each band.

Try it, I'm sure you'll like it.

73 es GL
Glenn ON4WIX
- Original Message - 
From: "W6NEK" 
To: "'Elecraft Reflector'" 
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 2:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly


> That is an outstanding suggestion Joe!
> Simple and elegant.  I hope it makes it to "The List"!
>
> Frank- W6NEK
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
>
>
> 
>> All that's necessary is to set "MEM 0-9" to "Band Sel" in
>> the configuration menu.  After that, M->V followed by 1
>> through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each
>> band 160 -> 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14,
>> 6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz).
>>
>> 73,
>>
>>... Joe, W4TV
>
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.41/2040 - Release Date: 04/03/09 
17:54:00

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[Elecraft] [K2] Aligning CW & SSB filters...Crystal heaters running perfect

2009-04-04 Thread Mike-WE0H
OK I found Spectrogram 5.0 runs perfect in Wine within Linux. I aligned 
my CW filters per the N0SS document. All went real easy.

Question though, how to align the SSB filters? What should the filter 
shapes look like? Is there an online document showing me what I should 
be tuning them for? I kind of guessed and tuned so the left skirt just 
went down to the low freq side of the display. I would prefer to see 
what they should look like when tuned properly...hi hi...

BTW, I have three crystal heaters heating the PLL & both BFO crystals to 
40C. So far so good, the radio is dead nuts stable now.

Many thanks,
Mike
WE0H
K2 6698
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Band button suggestion

2009-04-04 Thread Erik N Basilier
Don, I used to have band stacking on my old Yaesu, and now on the K3 I have 
programmed the M buttons to select 3 frequencies in each band. You are 
correct w.r.t. the number of button presses: The K3 always needs two, while 
band stacking requires anything from one to three (if limited to a "stack 
depth" of 3), which makes two on the average. On the other hand, if one has 
only one favorite frequency in a band, band stacking requires only one key 
press to go there. The term "stacking" might be justified by observing that 
the last stored frequency within the band is the first "on top of the 
stack", but on the other hand, when one accesses successive levels on the 
stack nothing pops off, but the stack contents just rotate.

The advantage of band stacking IMHO is that you only need to use eye-hand 
coordination to reach one button, and you are guaranteed to end up on the 
desired band regardless of intentional or non-intentional programming. I 
have yet to reach the "touch typing" proficiency stage w.r.t. the K3 
buttons, and have often re-programmed a memory button when my intention was 
to recall a band. At least once I have lost my M button programming when I 
upgraded firmware. That said, I think the BAND and MODE controls are quite 
convenient, and I use them as often as I use the M buttons.

73,
Erik K7TV 


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[Elecraft] K3 banned in Thailand / forced to sell my 2 K3s

2009-04-04 Thread Chris Wagner
Hi Folks:

1.) Glenn AC7ZN has a 12 W K3 with ATU and 400 Hz filter and the old
manual, about 7 months old, light use. Asking $ 1499 plus shipping
from UT. dix...@ieee.org

2.) David PA3HBB has a 100 W K3, ATU, 400 Hz, possibly MH-2 (died in
the wool CW op, so I doubt it was used). Bought in Fall 2008 and
imported to The Netherlands. No more customs duty for EU buyers!
Asking 1699 without MH-2. david.r...@chello.nl

Telephonic inquiries: 760 820 4490 or DL: +49 7171 941465

3.) K2 > # 6200, built by Elecraft builder Herard, PA1GP now a Silent
Key. He was a perfectionist who soldered beautifully. With MH-2, 160 m
RX, AF2, AT and MH-2. Remember the steep customs duty paid, so EU ops
only, please. Asking 725 shipped and insured.

4.) J-38 straight key in original carboard box with U.S. signal Corps
printed on. You see those on eBay or ask for photos. Asking EUR 49
shipped and insured to Europe and $ 59 to the U.S. At cost, got a few
at a depot in SE Asia. One is substandard and the box was maltreated
and scribbled on, this one EUR 29. kf6...@gmail.com

5.) When PA1GP died he left unfinished kits. a) SST, not sure about
the band, 20 or 40m. EUR 59 shipped and insured. b) SW+ with K1SWL's
enclosure, EUR 55. c) Norcal 2030. Please ask about this one. will
call you back.

Mni tnx es vy 73 de Chris KF6VCI / HS0ZFE / MI1ESG
+1 760 820 4490 or +49 7171 941465
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Re: [Elecraft] FSK Issue

2009-04-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

These symptoms are classic common mode RFI issues.  Typically 
due to unbalanced RF on the shield of the coax coming back 
from the antenna.  SWR has nothing at all to do with common 
mode - swr is measured in differential mode on the inside of 
the transmission line.   

See K9YC's information on common mode RFI at: 
  http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf 

The first thing to do is properly ground the shied of the 
coax (and the shield of the control cable) of the SteppIR 
vertical where they enter your shack and then install 
common mode chokes between the "ground window" and the 
rest of the station.  After that, install a choke of 6 to 
8 turns on a #31 mix toroid in the FSK line between your 
computer interface and the Aux/Acc input of the K3. 

In all probability the shield of the your coax is acting like 
another radial on 80 meters.  I'd almost bet is it very close 
to an odd multiple of 65 feet (as the coax runs) from the 
antenna to the rig. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 
 


> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Reed
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:25 PM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] FSK Issue
> 
> 
> I seem to have this recurring problem with FSK on my K3.  Up
> until now, the problem was intermittent, often solved by 
> rebooting my computer and/or reloading MMTTY.  Well, without 
> changing anything, the problem has now become consistent, 
> persistent and predictable:
> 
>  
> 
> At 0 - 22W on 80m, or any power level on 6m - 40m, MMTTY (using my
> interface) will key the K3 and send normal RTTY tones using
> the FSK-D data mode.
> 
>  
> 
> At 23W and above, on 80m, MMTTY will key the K3, but I only
> get the high tone.
> 
>  
> 
> Of course, if I put the radio into test mode, I get normal RTTY tones.
> 
>  
> 
> Am I overlooking something obvious?  Going crazy?  SWR
> presented to the K3 is 1:1 (SteppIR BigIR vertical).
> 
>  
> 
> AFSK works fine using the AFSK-A data mode, but I don't want
> to use AFSK.
> :-)
> 
>  
> 
> 73,
> 
> Dave, NX7F
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Band button suggestion

2009-04-04 Thread David Gilbert

My old and greatly inferior 756Pro had band stacking registers, and that 
feature essentially lets you cycle through the last three (in the case 
of the 756Pro) frequencies/mode with just repeated presses of the same 
band-select button.  For example, I could set the rig to 14010 CW with a 
narrow bandwidth, press the 20m band-select button and set that position 
to 14070 USB-D with a wide bandwdith, press the 20m band-select button 
again and set that position to 14195 USB with a medium bandwidth, and 
from that point on repeated presses of the 20m band-select button would 
cycle through all three setups.  On the 756Pro, the stacking registers 
were unique for each band.  It was a nice feature.

73,
Dave   AB7E




Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Steve (or anyone else who knows),
>
> Please explain the convenience of "band-stacking" memories.  I have 
> never used a radio with "band-stacking" memories, so I really don't know 
> what that means.
> Is it really a 'stack' (as in programming) where one can only select the 
> item at the top of the  stack?
> If it is something different, then the term "band-stacking" should not 
> be used IMHO - I think it was Yaesu that first popularized the term and 
> I have been confused ever since.
>
> The K3 provides 4 random access memories for each band in the M1-M4 
> buttons, and you say you want only 3, so you may use only M1-M3 if you 
> so choose.
>
> Yes, it does take a  2 button tap to retrieve the contents of any of the 
> M1-M4 memories, but if band-sacking memories can only retrieve the 
> topmost memory with any one tap, the average number of button taps 
> required to retrieve the desired memory with a stack depth of 3 is also 
> two taps.
>
> So please tell me that "band-stacking" is something different than a 
> "stack" as used in programming, and I will give up my argument and go 
> off on another tangent about the ills of mis-named functions on a radio.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Band button suggestion

2009-04-04 Thread Steve Ellington
Don:
Most rigs nowadays have "band stacking registers". The band selection keypad 
has a button for each band. Each button is capable of remembering at least 3 
frequencies per band. Programming these buttons is automatic.
When we switch between bands, the rig remembers the last frequency we used. 
Let's assume I was on 40 meters at 7250 khz yesterday but today I switched 
to 20 meters. When I push the 40m button, I'll land on 7250 Khz again. Later 
I tune down to the cw band, 7016 Khz, listen a while then jump back to 20M. 
Now we have 2 frequencies stored for 40 meters, one for phone and the other 
for cw. If I push the 40m button again, I'll land on 7015, push it a second 
time and I land on 7250. Eventually all bands that I used will have 3 of my 
favorite frequencies stored simply just by me operating and making no 
particular effort to program the buttons.
TenTec, Kenwood, ICOM, virtually all rigs work this way.
I've tried programming the M1, M2 etc. buttons but sooner or later I hit the 
wrong button and the whole things is screwed up. It's just not intuitive as 
having registers. Since the K3 doesn't have individual band buttons, there's 
not much you can do about it. That's why I suggested that a separate button 
be designated as the band stacking register button for whatever band you 
happen to be using. Simply push that button 3 times and you get 3 different 
frequencies that you have used in the past. How, you ask, did we program 
these frequenciesWell every time you change bands, the last frequency 
used is stored in that particular registry. When you go back to that band, 
that frequency will pop up first but the last 2 frequencies will be 
available by a push of the button.
Hope this makes sense! I'm sure Elecraft is tired of hearing about this but 
lack of this feature is a very common complaint on an otherwise perfect rig. 
Maybe the new panadpter will have these buttons!
73
Steve Ellington
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Band button suggestion


> Steve (or anyone else who knows),
>
> Please explain the convenience of "band-stacking" memories.  I have
> never used a radio with "band-stacking" memories, so I really don't know
> what that means.
> Is it really a 'stack' (as in programming) where one can only select the
> item at the top of the  stack?
> If it is something different, then the term "band-stacking" should not
> be used IMHO - I think it was Yaesu that first popularized the term and
> I have been confused ever since.
>
> The K3 provides 4 random access memories for each band in the M1-M4
> buttons, and you say you want only 3, so you may use only M1-M3 if you
> so choose.
>
> Yes, it does take a  2 button tap to retrieve the contents of any of the
> M1-M4 memories, but if band-sacking memories can only retrieve the
> topmost memory with any one tap, the average number of button taps
> required to retrieve the desired memory with a stack depth of 3 is also
> two taps.
>
> So please tell me that "band-stacking" is something different than a
> "stack" as used in programming, and I will give up my argument and go
> off on another tangent about the ills of mis-named functions on a radio.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Steve Ellington wrote:
>> Since we can't have band stacking and memories are too much trouble, how
>> about designating one seldom used button of our choice to be the band
>> stacking button. Example: We scroll to 40 meters with the usual band 
>> button
>> then once we are on 40m, we can use that designated button to scroll 
>> through
>> pre-programmed locations across the band such as CW, SSB, Digital etc. 3
>> spots would be plenty. To me, this seems like a good compromise. In my 
>> case,
>> I would chose to designate the "SUB" button since I don't have the sub
>> receiver or maybe the RATE button since I seldom need it. Anything would 
>> be
>> better than using those memories!
>> Steve  N4LQ
>> n...@carolina.rr.com
>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Tone/"Low Bat" indication?

2009-04-04 Thread David Gilbert

Glad that helped,  Steve.

You might want to continue your troubleshooting, though.  I use exactly 
the same Alinco DM-330MV power supply with the same stock Power Pole 
connectors that came with the K3, and while I have considered shortening 
the power cable that Elecraft provides I have not yet done so.  I 
normally have my DM-330MV set for 14.5 volts per the earlier discussions 
here on the reflector about SSB linearity, but I temporarily adjusted 
the voltage back down to 13.6 volts in receive to match your 
conditions.  With the K3 set to 95 watts, I show 13.0 volts in 
transmit.  At 45 watts, I'm holding 13.3 volts.

I'm not sure what the difference might be, but we're getting 
significantly different results from the same power supply.  For what it 
might be worth, I carefully soldered the connections between the cable 
and the Power Pole connectors when I assembled it.

73,
Dave   AB7E




S Sacco wrote:
> Hi Dave -
>
> OK, sorry for the misunderstanding; I thought you were talking about 
> the K3's internal battery.
>
> Now that we have that out of the way:
>
> 1) "BAT MIN" is set to 11.0 v
>
> 2) When I measured the voltage using the K3's internal metering:
> a) It was 13.6 v at receive
> b) It was 10.8 v while transmitting 95 watts output   Clearly, 
> 10.8 < "BAT MIN" 
>
> 3) I measured disconnected and reconnected the Anderson Power Pole 
> connector at the back of the K3, and the voltage increased to 10.9.
>
> 4) I have the power from the power supply (an Alinco DM-330MV) running 
> to a set of fuses before continuing on to the K3.   It's one of those 
> gold-plated dressy looking deals that car audio folks use to bling-out 
> their installation (I got them cheap at Skycraft Surplus here in 
> Orlando about 10 years ago). 
>a) I removed both fuses (one for +, one for - ) and treated both 
> the fuse and the holder with DeoxIT. 
>b) At the same time, I treated the PowerPole with DeoxIT. 
>c) I also noted the the - lug on the back of the Alinco was 
> slightly loose, so I tightened it.
>d) My apologies for not doing one thing at a time, and then 
> measuring the result; that would have been the proper procedure.
>e) Upon the above treatment and actions:
> i) The voltage rose to 13.7 v at receive
> ii) The voltage rose to 11.4 v while transmitting 95 watts
> iii) To add another datapoint, I reduced the power to 45 watts 
> (typical power when driving my amp) and the voltage was 12.0 v.
>
> Conclusion: Voltage drop due to I squared R losses.
>
> I didn't measure the voltage on both side of the fuses before the 
> DeoxIT treatment, which was another mistake in my diagnostic 
> approach.  I did so after the treatment, and noted a voltage drop of 
> only .1 volt (from 12.9 to 12.8) across the fuses while under load.
>
> Thanks for the tip Dave; it was much appreciated!
>
> I've Cced the reflector, and hope this serves as a good example for 
> everyone to mind their connections. 
>
> 73,
> Steve
> NN4X
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Band button suggestion

2009-04-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve (or anyone else who knows),

Please explain the convenience of "band-stacking" memories.  I have 
never used a radio with "band-stacking" memories, so I really don't know 
what that means.
Is it really a 'stack' (as in programming) where one can only select the 
item at the top of the  stack?
If it is something different, then the term "band-stacking" should not 
be used IMHO - I think it was Yaesu that first popularized the term and 
I have been confused ever since.

The K3 provides 4 random access memories for each band in the M1-M4 
buttons, and you say you want only 3, so you may use only M1-M3 if you 
so choose.

Yes, it does take a  2 button tap to retrieve the contents of any of the 
M1-M4 memories, but if band-sacking memories can only retrieve the 
topmost memory with any one tap, the average number of button taps 
required to retrieve the desired memory with a stack depth of 3 is also 
two taps.

So please tell me that "band-stacking" is something different than a 
"stack" as used in programming, and I will give up my argument and go 
off on another tangent about the ills of mis-named functions on a radio.

73,
Don W3FPR

Steve Ellington wrote:
> Since we can't have band stacking and memories are too much trouble, how 
> about designating one seldom used button of our choice to be the band 
> stacking button. Example: We scroll to 40 meters with the usual band button 
> then once we are on 40m, we can use that designated button to scroll through 
> pre-programmed locations across the band such as CW, SSB, Digital etc. 3 
> spots would be plenty. To me, this seems like a good compromise. In my case, 
> I would chose to designate the "SUB" button since I don't have the sub 
> receiver or maybe the RATE button since I seldom need it. Anything would be 
> better than using those memories!
> Steve  N4LQ
> n...@carolina.rr.com 
>   
>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2009-04-04 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
   Today was very sunny and warm (50 degrees).  The first hummingbird of the 
season visited the windows to inform me it was time to set up the feeder for 
him.  He buzzed the windows three times just to make sure he got my attention.  
Just moments ago I was phoned by the Nielson Ratings folks.  They always get a 
kick out of finding someone with no television.  This is the fifth time they 
have surveyed me in the last eight years.  The first flowers to bloom this year 
were not the snow drops but rather some jonquils.  For the last few years they 
have gotten zapped by frost so it was nice to see them get a chance to bloom 
undisturbed.  The forecast is for a week of pleasant sunshine and warm 
temperatures.  It will get to 70 degrees on Monday so I will be rather hot in 
here.  But then we go back to Oregon normal for the rest of the week.
   Conditions on twenty meters were on and off but I was able to make 
consistent, if weak, contacts every day of the week.  Since I was busy with a 
class for the ARES folks I did not have time during the evenings to check.  My 
antenna/propagation class part one went very well.  I started them off with a 
taste of Maxwell's equations in vector form.  I wanted to make sure they were 
alert and awake ;)  From the response I received I could have added more 
calculus during the rest of the lecture.  So, next time I offer this class, I 
will give them some differential equations too.  Calculus allowed me to show 
them things more simply than words would ever allow.  Now I need to finish part 
two of the class which is on more practical aspects of antennas and 
propagation.   

Please join us tomorrow evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP  help)

Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 6 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

   Stay healthy,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

-
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[Elecraft] FSK Issue

2009-04-04 Thread Dave Reed
I seem to have this recurring problem with FSK on my K3.  Up until now, the
problem was intermittent, often solved by rebooting my computer and/or
reloading MMTTY.  Well, without changing anything, the problem has now
become consistent, persistent and predictable:

 

At 0 - 22W on 80m, or any power level on 6m - 40m, MMTTY (using my
interface) will key the K3 and send normal RTTY tones using the FSK-D data
mode.

 

At 23W and above, on 80m, MMTTY will key the K3, but I only get the high
tone.

 

Of course, if I put the radio into test mode, I get normal RTTY tones.

 

Am I overlooking something obvious?  Going crazy?  SWR presented to the K3
is 1:1 (SteppIR BigIR vertical).

 

AFSK works fine using the AFSK-A data mode, but I don't want to use AFSK.
:-)

 

73,

Dave, NX7F

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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Tone/"Low Bat" indication?

2009-04-04 Thread S Sacco
Hi Dave -

OK, sorry for the misunderstanding; I thought you were talking about the
K3's internal battery.

Now that we have that out of the way:

1) "BAT MIN" is set to 11.0 v

2) When I measured the voltage using the K3's internal metering:
a) It was 13.6 v at receive
b) It was 10.8 v while transmitting 95 watts output   Clearly, 10.8
< "BAT MIN" 

3) I measured disconnected and reconnected the Anderson Power Pole connector
at the back of the K3, and the voltage increased to 10.9.

4) I have the power from the power supply (an Alinco DM-330MV) running to a
set of fuses before continuing on to the K3.   It's one of those gold-plated
dressy looking deals that car audio folks use to bling-out their
installation (I got them cheap at Skycraft Surplus here in Orlando about 10
years ago).
   a) I removed both fuses (one for +, one for - ) and treated both the fuse
and the holder with DeoxIT.
   b) At the same time, I treated the PowerPole with DeoxIT.
   c) I also noted the the - lug on the back of the Alinco was slightly
loose, so I tightened it.
   d) My apologies for not doing one thing at a time, and then measuring the
result; that would have been the proper procedure.
   e) Upon the above treatment and actions:
i) The voltage rose to 13.7 v at receive
ii) The voltage rose to 11.4 v while transmitting 95 watts
iii) To add another datapoint, I reduced the power to 45 watts
(typical power when driving my amp) and the voltage was 12.0 v.

Conclusion: Voltage drop due to I squared R losses.

I didn't measure the voltage on both side of the fuses before the DeoxIT
treatment, which was another mistake in my diagnostic approach.  I did so
after the treatment, and noted a voltage drop of only .1 volt (from 12.9 to
12.8) across the fuses while under load.

Thanks for the tip Dave; it was much appreciated!

I've Cced the reflector, and hope this serves as a good example for everyone
to mind their connections.

73,
Steve
NN4X



On Sat, Apr 4, 2009 at 8:56 PM, David Gilbert wrote:

>
>
> The age of the battery doesn't mean much, and if it is weak it will be
> while you're transmitting that the voltage will sag.  To check it, all you
> need to do is tap the DISP button, and then spin the VFO B knob to monitor
> the battery voltage right on the K3.  If it falls below the value set for
> BAT MIN in the CONFIG menu, you're going to get a warning ... and probably a
> glitch if the warning happens while you're sending.
>
> Dave  AB7E
>
>
>
> S Sacco wrote:
>
> David -
>
> Given that my K3 is about 9 months old (thus, the battery is pretty fresh,
> no doubt), and that it happens irregularly and momentarily, while
> transmitting, leads me to suspect this is not a "low battery" condition.
> Given that, I have not checked the battery.
>
> 73,
> Steve
> NN4X
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 4, 2009 at 7:57 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
>
>>
>> Have you checked the actual battery voltage that you're using?  It seems
>> to me that the K3 is trying to tell you something.
>>
>> Dave   AB7E
>>
>>
>> S Sacco wrote:
>>
>> I was working a station on 40M CW (qsk) this afternoon, and suddenly - and
>> only for a moment, my K3 got stuck and put a high pitched tone into the
>> speaker, while at the same time, indication "Low Bat" (perhaps "Low
>> Batt"?).  It then returned to normal operation.
>>
>> I've experienced this "getting stuck" thing a few times, but never looked at
>> the display while it was happening.
>>
>> I'm running 3.04 right now.
>>
>> Has anyone seen this behavior?  If so, is there a way to address it?
>>
>> Thank you & 73,
>>
>> Steve
>> NN4X
>> EL98jh
>> __
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>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Inductive relay "kick"

2009-04-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Carl,

If you look at the datasheet for the relay driver used in the KPA100, 
you will find that it does indeed have integral clamping diodes.
Based on that fact, the inductive kick in the KPA100 should be almost 
zero, but in reality, there will still be a residual hit.  I believe 
that saying it should never be greater than twice the relay coil voltage 
is quite a conservative one - we were discussing the KPA100 application 
in particular, not back EMF in the  general.sense.

You are quite correct - without clamping, and relay coils with 
relatively low resistance, the back EMF can grow very large.  The energy 
in an inductor (the relay coil is an inductor) is proportional to the 
inductance times the square of the current, and if the relay coil 
resistance is low, the square of the ON current through it can be very 
large.

73,
Don W3FPR

Carl wrote:
 Don, seriously disagree about the magnitude of the "kick". For years I 
 taught a course on industrial installations and demo'ed the "kick" issue 
 by soldering two bare wire to the coil of a small Potter and Brumfield 
 "ice cube" 12 vdc relay. I would pick the biggest guy in the class to 
 hold the wires while I touched them to a nine-volt transistor radio 
 battery. And then watch as he would throw the relay across the room. A 
 reverse diode would vastly reduce the effect.

 Well, I got yelled at and was told "Hey, Stupid (and stupid wasn't the 
 word they used)! Put that on a storage scope to see what you're messing 
 with." The scope showed a spike of 450 vdc! The diode reduced it to less 
 than 75 vdc.
 The magnitude is due mainly to the large inductance of the coil, but 
 until some measurements are taken, some caution is advised. The 
 inductance of any coil inside a K2 or K3 is bound to be much smaller. But 
 the phenomenon is the same.

 73, Carl WC0V
 
>
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[Elecraft] OT: inductive "kick" stuff

2009-04-04 Thread Rick Shindley
I hope the following will help the people that aren't into electronics all
that much.
 
An inductor (relay coil, solenoid, choke, etc.) stores energy in its
magnetic field.  When the source of current is removed, the magnetic field
will collapse back into the core at fast as it can, limited only by current
flow, if any. Until current flows the voltage can reach many hundreds of
times the actual supply voltage but the polarity is opposite that which
created the field since the magnetic field is no longer expanding outward
but collapsing inward. This is called the "flyback effect" and it is used to
great advantage when you need 6V, 12V, or 200V from a 1.5V penlight battery.

 
With a diode connected "backwards" in parallel with the coil, the diode will
become forward biased when the inductor's field collapses. The energy in the
collapsing field is dissipated as heat in the diode and coil winding
resistance.  If the diode is a silicon diode, then the (negative) voltage of
the collapsing field will be limited to the normal forward diode drop (0.7V,
for silicon diodes) .  There is no need for a high PIV diode since the diode
is reversed biased when the relay is energized and that voltage is typically
low, say 12V.  A 50 PIV diode would work fine.  The only real criteria for
the diode are that it be able to handle the current from the collapsing
field.  That's why you don't see signal diodes serving that function.
 
And you don't need a "fast" diode, either.  The clunky power diode will be
fine.  It has a lot of junction capacitance, which makes it "slow", but the
capacitance is in parallel with the (theoretical) diode and NOTHING will
allow the forward voltage to exceed the diode drop (0.7V, for example).  The
added junction capacitance only helps "eat" the collapsing field energy as
it "charges" the capacitance until the diode clamps "on" in forward bias.
 
So, what happens with a diode-protected relay is that the diode will conduct
momentarily when the drive to the coil goes away. A small negative voltage
(diode forward drop) will appear briefly until the stored energy is
dissipated. The drive circuit sees nothing more than a small negative
voltage during that time and thus the circuit is protected.
 
Rick
KC0OV
 
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] K3 Band button suggestion

2009-04-04 Thread Steve Ellington
Since we can't have band stacking and memories are too much trouble, how 
about designating one seldom used button of our choice to be the band 
stacking button. Example: We scroll to 40 meters with the usual band button 
then once we are on 40m, we can use that designated button to scroll through 
pre-programmed locations across the band such as CW, SSB, Digital etc. 3 
spots would be plenty. To me, this seems like a good compromise. In my case, 
I would chose to designate the "SUB" button since I don't have the sub 
receiver or maybe the RATE button since I seldom need it. Anything would be 
better than using those memories!
Steve  N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com 

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[Elecraft] Fw: Inductive relay "kick"

2009-04-04 Thread Carl , WCØV

- Original Message - 
From: "Carl, WCØV" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inductive relay "kick"


> Good point. The diode will conduct the back EMF minus internal voltage 
> when the supply voltage to the coil is removed. You do need a diode with a 
> high enough PIV rating. But even Radio Shack has silicon diodes with 1000 
> PIV rating, 2 amps forward current rating at five for a dollar.
>
> We make electric actuators where I work, motors with internal rollerscrews 
> and often they get equipped with electric safety brakes (apply when power 
> is removed, release when power is applied). We normally supply 1N4007 
> (1000 PIV rated forward bias) diodes with brake equipped motors.
>
> 50% of those you ask would do that. The other 50% would use a very fast 
> switching diode as you suggest. Both work just fine since the only job is 
> to conduct the EMF coming out of the coil when the actuating voltage is 
> removed. BUT you do need a diode with a high enough PIV rating. Some of 
> our bigger unsuppressed motor brake coils can spit out over 600 vdc when 
> the supply is removed.
>
> And yes some of our customers hook up the diode or the brake supply 
> backwards and blow the diode (if they don't blow the supply first). 
> Protection is gone, and the back EMF from the relay coil is free to blast 
> wherever it wants to go.
>
> I am sure the Elecraft relays are way below that. My point to Don was that 
> simply doubling the voltage rating of the coil to get the back EMF is way 
> off. A scope will tell the real tale.
>
> BTW I got yelled at by a medical tech who pointed out that the pain 
> (real - I tried the relay wire experiment myself) is the voltage going 
> right across your heart. To some, 450 vdc may be a very bad day.
>
> 73, Carl WC0V
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Bob" 
> To: "WCØV" 
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:07 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inductive relay "kick"
>
>
>> Hi Carl,
>>
>>   What am I missing here?   Using a regular silicon diode that 
>> has a fast switching time, or even better a Schottky diode wouldn't they 
>> clamp at the forward bias of the junction .7 volts of less.   If not how 
>> long could you expect the diode to survive that abuse of 75v across the 
>> forward biased junction.  If the diode then failed open you would never 
>> know your protection was gone.
>> 73,
>> Bob
>> K2TK
>>
>> Carl wrote:
>>
>>>Don, seriously disagree about the magnitude of the "kick". For years I 
>>>taught a course on industrial installations and demo'ed the "kick" issue 
>>>by soldering two bare wire to the coil of a small Potter and Brumfield 
>>>"ice cube" 12 vdc relay. I would pick the biggest guy in the class to 
>>>hold the wires while I touched them to a nine-volt transistor radio 
>>>battery. And then watch as he would throw the relay across the room. A 
>>>reverse diode would vastly reduce the effect.
>>>
>>>Well, I got yelled at and was told "Hey, Stupid (and stupid wasn't the 
>>>word they used)! Put that on a storage scope to see what you're messing 
>>>with." The scope showed a spike of 450 vdc! The diode reduced it to less 
>>>than 75 vdc.
>>>The magnitude is due mainly to the large inductance of the coil, but 
>>>until some measurements are taken, some caution is advised. The 
>>>inductance of any coil inside a K2 or K3 is bound to be much smaller. But 
>>>the phenomenon is the same.
>>>
>>>73, Carl WC0V
>>>__
>>>Elecraft mailing list
>>>Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>>Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>>
>>>This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>>Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>
> 

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[Elecraft] K3 assembly / "band buttons"

2009-04-04 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Seems that this posting keeps coming up.  :-)

Oldie but goodie from March 2008
de Doug KR2Q

http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2008-March/084937.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 problem

2009-04-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

You probably shorted the diode in the RF Probe first, and that in turn 
grounded the collector of Q6, and that in turn would have placed a 
stress on the 12 volt input.

Did you have a fuse in your power cord?  That would be the first thing 
to check.  Do you have 12 volts or more from the power supply?  If so, 
is there voltage at the coaxial power plug? Then how about at the 
cathode of D16?

If you have voltage (12 to 14 volts) at the places above, turn on the 
power switch and check for 12 volts at both ends of  R5 (no need to have 
the band board installed for that check).  How about at the collector 
(tab) of Q6?

If you have 12 volts at all those places, check the output pin of U5 for 
the presence of 8 volts.  If so, check for 6 volts at the output pin of U6.

If all those are present, turn the K1 off, install the band board, turn 
it on and you should have a display of some sort.

Let us know what happens.

73,
Don W3FPR

Michael - VE3MKX wrote:
> Hi All..   Well  Here is the K1 story
>
> I was going threw the RF section taking  voltage measurements (page 5 of 
> trouble shooting) trying to figure out why the rig was deaf.  While doing so, 
> silly me, I would say other words but  I hit the nut/bolt assembly left 
> of TR-3 on the bottom of the main board with the RF probe.  Then ZAP !! Now 
> the rig is dead, it will not on.
>
> Not being a technician... Any thoughts on where to start tying to trouble 
> shoot this new mess / problem that I just created? ;)
>
> Any help would be appreciated !
>
> 73 Mike
>   
>
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[Elecraft] K1 problem

2009-04-04 Thread Michael - VE3MKX
Hi All..   Well  Here is the K1 story

I was going threw the RF section taking  voltage measurements (page 5 of 
trouble shooting) trying to figure out why the rig was deaf.  While doing so, 
silly me, I would say other words but  I hit the nut/bolt assembly left of 
TR-3 on the bottom of the main board with the RF probe.  Then ZAP !! Now the 
rig is dead, it will not on.

Not being a technician... Any thoughts on where to start tying to trouble shoot 
this new mess / problem that I just created? ;)

Any help would be appreciated !

73 Mike
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Assembly

2009-04-04 Thread John N1JM

Thanks. I missed that on the errata sheet. Although it's  not to clear how to 
set them up. You must enter a frequency in each 0-9 before it becomes active.

73,
John N1JM



> Yeah, band buttons would be nice if the panel were larger. 
> But there is a good work-around that doesn't require a 
> computer. If you're new here, you may have missed it. Just 
> use quick-recall memories 0-9. This results in two taps 
> instead of one (M>V, ) but it sets you up with all 
> variables the way you want them.

All that's necessary is to set "MEM 0-9" to "Band Sel" in 
the configuration menu.  After that, M->V followed by 1 
through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each 
band 160 -> 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 
6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
   




> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick Tavan N6XI
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:41 PM
> To: John N1JM
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
> 
> 
> Yeah, band buttons would be nice if the panel were larger. 
> But there is a good work-around that doesn't require a 
> computer. If you're new here, you may have missed it. Just 
> use quick-recall memories 0-9. This results in two taps 
> instead of one (M>V, ) but it sets you up with all 
> variables the way you want them.
> 
> I use this mnemonic: Memory 0=160, 1=10, 2=20, 3=30, 4=40, 
> 5=15, 6=60, 7=17, 8=80, 9=12. (That last one isn't really 
> mnemonic.) Some folks go in frequency sequence. Take the time 
> to set up exactly what you want in both VFOs on each band. I 
> put my favorite CW freq in VFO A, my favorite SSB freq in VFO 
> B and set up AGC and DSP parameters just the way I (usually) 
> like them. It's a breeze once you get it set up.
> 
> /Rick N6XI
> 
> On 4/3/09, John N1JM  wrote:
> >
> >
> > My only quibble is that I wish it had band buttons( and 
> yes, I know, 
> > there is software for that and I use HRD) and band stacking 
> registers. 
> > I just don't like a radio tied to a Mac(or PC) all the 
> time, otherwise 
> > I might have a Flex :-). But it sure beats my PRO3 and TS480.
> >



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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Assembly-tp2584061p2587034.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly

2009-04-04 Thread W6NEK
Wow that was fast!
It's already in there!
Guess it's time to review all the menu settings.
Who knows what other nifty things I'll find!

Red faced,
Frank - W6NEK

- Original Message - 
From: "W6NEK" 
To: "'Elecraft Reflector'" 
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly


> That is an outstanding suggestion Joe!
> Simple and elegant.  I hope it makes it to "The List"!
> 
> Frank- W6NEK
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
> 
> 
>  
>> All that's necessary is to set "MEM 0-9" to "Band Sel" in 
>> the configuration menu.  After that, M->V followed by 1 
>> through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each 
>> band 160 -> 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 
>> 6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). 
>> 
>> 73, 
>> 
>>... Joe, W4TV

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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement

2009-04-04 Thread Phil and Christina
Hi gang,

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (Sunday, 4/5/09) at 1800Z.
We will start at 14.316 MHz, and QSY if needed.  The net control is in
western Oregon, but we will need a good east coast or midwest station to
relay a few west coast signals that may be too close to net control.  See
you there.

73,

Phil, NS7P

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[Elecraft] K3 Assembly

2009-04-04 Thread Don Rasmussen

Seriously, it's hard to keep up with the rate that Wayne adds new features to 
the radio. I've had a K3 since Jan 2008 and a quick look back at the 
advancement of the firmware is amazing.   

It's not a radio that you learn once, but on the plus side it's all documented. 


[Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Don Wilhelm w3fpr at embarqmail.com 
Sat Apr 4 20:22:42 EDT 2009 

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Frank,

No need for it to go on "The List" - it is reality now.  You can set it 
up for any combination of 'which 0-9 button corresponds to each band' - 
make your own decisions on that.  See "Quick Memories" in the manual, 
the CONFIG:MEM 0-9 and CONFIG: BAND SEL in the menu listing.  There is 
also information retaining the "last used frequency" addition in the 
firmware release notes.

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly

2009-04-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Frank,

No need for it to go on "The List" - it is reality now.  You can set it 
up for any combination of 'which 0-9 button corresponds to each band' - 
make your own decisions on that.  See "Quick Memories" in the manual, 
the CONFIG:MEM 0-9 and CONFIG: BAND SEL in the menu listing.  There is 
also information retaining the "last used frequency" addition in the 
firmware release notes.

73,
Don W3FPR

W6NEK wrote:
> That is an outstanding suggestion Joe!
> Simple and elegant.  I hope it makes it to "The List"!
>
> Frank- W6NEK
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
>
>
>  
>   
>> All that's necessary is to set "MEM 0-9" to "Band Sel" in 
>> the configuration menu.  After that, M->V followed by 1 
>> through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each 
>> band 160 -> 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 
>> 6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). 
>>
>> 
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Tubes for sale

2009-04-04 Thread David Gilbert

The day after March 31 maybe?  Just a guess on my part.

73,
Dave   AB7E




W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
> LMAO
>
> No quite a vacuum tube anymore!  What would compel someone to do that? 
>
>
> CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
> W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194
>
> "A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
> never get over." Ben Franklin 
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Wiley
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:08 PM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Tubes for sale
>
>
>
> You _really_ can't make this stuff up:
>
>
> http://hardocp.com/images/news/1237476767fPYMHIsYVF_1_1_l.gif
>
>
>
> This was forwarded to me by one of my friends at the ARRL.  I thought you
> guys might enjoy it too.  I'm still laughing.
>
>
> - Jim, KL7CC
>
> __
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>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly

2009-04-04 Thread W6NEK
That is an outstanding suggestion Joe!
Simple and elegant.  I hope it makes it to "The List"!

Frank- W6NEK

- Original Message - 
From: "Joe Subich, W4TV" 
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly


 
> All that's necessary is to set "MEM 0-9" to "Band Sel" in 
> the configuration menu.  After that, M->V followed by 1 
> through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each 
> band 160 -> 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 
> 6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). 
> 
> 73, 
> 
>... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] Tubes for sale

2009-04-04 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
LMAO

No quite a vacuum tube anymore!  What would compel someone to do that? 


CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194

"A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over." Ben Franklin 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Wiley
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:08 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Tubes for sale



You _really_ can't make this stuff up:


http://hardocp.com/images/news/1237476767fPYMHIsYVF_1_1_l.gif



This was forwarded to me by one of my friends at the ARRL.  I thought you
guys might enjoy it too.  I'm still laughing.


- Jim, KL7CC

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[Elecraft] K3 shorted audio IC "fix"

2009-04-04 Thread Ken Kopp
After discovering ... after-the-fact ... the cause of my self-inflicted
audio IC failure, I found the solution hanging on my patch-cord
rack.  I'm now using a 1/8" male stereo plug to 2 x female phono 
connector patch cord and replaced the 1/8" male mono phone 
plug on each speaker with a male phono plug.  Now I'm safe from 
myself. (;-)

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly

2009-04-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


> Yeah, band buttons would be nice if the panel were larger. 
> But there is a good work-around that doesn't require a 
> computer. If you're new here, you may have missed it. Just 
> use quick-recall memories 0-9. This results in two taps 
> instead of one (M>V, ) but it sets you up with all 
> variables the way you want them.

All that's necessary is to set "MEM 0-9" to "Band Sel" in 
the configuration menu.  After that, M->V followed by 1 
through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each 
band 160 -> 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7, 4 = 10, 5 = 14, 
6 = 18.1, 7 = 21, 8 = 24.9, 9 = 28 and 0 - 50 MHz). 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
   




> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick Tavan N6XI
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:41 PM
> To: John N1JM
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
> 
> 
> Yeah, band buttons would be nice if the panel were larger. 
> But there is a good work-around that doesn't require a 
> computer. If you're new here, you may have missed it. Just 
> use quick-recall memories 0-9. This results in two taps 
> instead of one (M>V, ) but it sets you up with all 
> variables the way you want them.
> 
> I use this mnemonic: Memory 0=160, 1=10, 2=20, 3=30, 4=40, 
> 5=15, 6=60, 7=17, 8=80, 9=12. (That last one isn't really 
> mnemonic.) Some folks go in frequency sequence. Take the time 
> to set up exactly what you want in both VFOs on each band. I 
> put my favorite CW freq in VFO A, my favorite SSB freq in VFO 
> B and set up AGC and DSP parameters just the way I (usually) 
> like them. It's a breeze once you get it set up.
> 
> /Rick N6XI
> 
> On 4/3/09, John N1JM  wrote:
> >
> >
> > My only quibble is that I wish it had band buttons( and 
> yes, I know, 
> > there is software for that and I use HRD) and band stacking 
> registers. 
> > I just don't like a radio tied to a Mac(or PC) all the 
> time, otherwise 
> > I might have a Flex :-). But it sure beats my PRO3 and TS480.
> >



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Re: [Elecraft] totally OT, except to the extent that it's QRP: LED lamps

2009-04-04 Thread David Woolley
wayne burdick wrote:
> I haven't heard any noise from them yet. Since they run directly from
> 110 VAC, I imagine it's just a bridge rectifier, a resistor, and a
> filter cap. I wouldn't expect any RF noise.

The LEDs need a constant current supply.  Using a resistor to achieve 
that would significantly compromise power consumption.

I would expect them to use a switch mode power supply, regulated for 
current, rather than voltage.  That's how professional LED lighting 
drivers work.  The electronics ought to be very similar to those in 
CFLs, but it will be easier to get a good ground plane.

The current generation of LED bulbs are based on 3W or greater single 
devices, so a 6 watt device would only drop about 8 volts.  A device 
that achieved 6 watts with large numbers of devices is obsolescent 
technology, although may well be all that is available on the consumer 
market (although, for specialised consumer markets, like bicycle 
headlamps, the state of the art devices are in use, as they are for 
commercial lighting).



-- 
David Woolley
Emails are not formal business letters, whatever businesses may want.
RFC1855 says there should be an address here, but, in a world of spam,
that is no longer good advice, as archive address hiding may not work.
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[Elecraft] [k3] Tone/"Low Bat" indication?

2009-04-04 Thread S Sacco
I was working a station on 40M CW (qsk) this afternoon, and suddenly - and
only for a moment, my K3 got stuck and put a high pitched tone into the
speaker, while at the same time, indication "Low Bat" (perhaps "Low
Batt"?).  It then returned to normal operation.

I've experienced this "getting stuck" thing a few times, but never looked at
the display while it was happening.

I'm running 3.04 right now.

Has anyone seen this behavior?  If so, is there a way to address it?

Thank you & 73,

Steve
NN4X
EL98jh
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1, LDG Z11] Builders For Hire

2009-04-04 Thread Dale Putnam

Hi Dan,
  I would be happy to solder it together for you.. and build the KX1 if you 
want. I have 4 AT rigs in the final stages, and one or two ahead of you... so I 
will be a bit slow... 
  If I can help, I sure would. 
  Oh.. no charge either. or I should more accurately say, for neither... just 
the shipping.. to and from.. ok?

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


> Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 16:16:54 -0400
> From: daniel.pe...@fshsociety.org
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] [KX1, LDG Z11] Builders For Hire
> 
> I was considering building or hiring someone to build a KX-1 30/80.
> 
> To help me with making that decision I thought I’d revisit a 4 or 5 year 
> old tuner kit I had on the shelf to help sort it out. I have a 
> progressive physical disability that has now brought me to the point 
> where it is hard to solder components. I have, in kit form, a partially 
> built LDG Z-11 Automatic Antenna Tuner. It’s two boards, 100 components, 
> 400 solder joints. I’ve inserted 60-70 components, wound toroids, 
> transformer and soldered about 10-15 capacitors with Kester 2% silver 
> solder. Essentially, I've put it together but can't solder it.
> 
> I’ve tried emailing three or four people on the Elecraft “Builders for 
> Hire” page but have received emails bounced back as they’re obsolete. I 
> also called the owner of LDG who could/would not offer any assistance 
> but suggested the Elecraft reflector.
> 
> Is there an Elecraft builder on this listserv who’d be interested in 
> finishing out this kit with me?
> 
> Best,
> 
> Dan, AD1P
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 external speaker mono v stereo plug

2009-04-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

It is better to use the approximate ship date posted on the Elecraft 
website listing of K3 Mods and Enhancements.
There can be a serial number differences between the factory ship K3s 
and the kit versions  - the factory built K3 are at the factory longer 
after the serial number has been assigned, so the ship date is a better 
reference.

OTOH, it is a simple matter to remove the top cover and look at the board.

73,
Don W3FPR

Jim Miller KG0KP wrote:
> Does somebody have an approximate serial number when the erferenced "Rev B" 
> KIO3 bd began to be used?
>
> Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 external speaker mono v stereo plug

2009-04-04 Thread Jim Miller KG0KP
Does somebody have an approximate serial number when the erferenced "Rev B" 
KIO3 bd began to be used?

Thanks es 73, de Jim KG0KP

- Original Message - 
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
To: "'Doug Turnbull'" ; 
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 external speaker mono v stereo plug


> The mod is NOT needed if you have a Rev B KIO3 board in your K3.
>
> It's easy to see the rev letter on your board by simply opening the top
> cover. Details about how to do that are available in the mod document 
> here:
>
> http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/AF_Output_Mod_Rev_C.pdf
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
>
> Ken,
> Thank you for your warning but I am now wondering if it applies to
> later SN K3s.   Mine is number 2574 and sure enough I have been using a
> mono-plug but in the Config Menu under SPKRS 1 has been selected.   The
> manual indicates a preference for stereo plugs but clearly states, "If you
> only have a mono plug, set CONFIG:SPKRS to 1 to disable right-channel
> audio."   A comment from Elecrafter might be in order to fully clear this
> matter up.   In the meantime my external speaker is out until a stereo 
> plug
> is wired.   Thank you for the warning.
>
> 73 Doug
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 external speaker mono v stereo plug

2009-04-04 Thread Ken Kopp
Doug, others ...

If you -do- have a situation where the audio IC is looking
into a shorted load and still working ... remember, mine
and another ran for months before the audio IC failed.

With your radio turned on, remove the top cover and look 
inside at the extreme left top corner of the board closest 
to the shield.  Note if there is discoloration of the edge of 
the board above the large IC and / or stick your finger in 
and touch the IC.  Sniff the area for the tell-tale smell of
hot glass epoxy circuit board.  If it is like mine you'll test 
your reaction time, as the IC will most likely be far too hot 
to touch.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Tubes for sale

2009-04-04 Thread Jack Brindle
Oh that's easy. You just run them through the dishwasher once in a  
while with the dinner plates...

-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===


On Apr 4, 2009, at 1:52 PM, Bruce McLaughlin wrote:

> Oh my gosh!  I wonder how he plans to keep dust off the plates.
>
> Bruce-W8FU
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Wiley
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:08 PM
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Tubes for sale
>
>
>
> You _really_ can't make this stuff up:
>
>
> http://hardocp.com/images/news/1237476767fPYMHIsYVF_1_1_l.gif
>
>
>
> This was forwarded to me by one of my friends at the ARRL.  I thought
> you guys might enjoy it too.  I'm still laughing.
>
>
> - Jim, KL7CC
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Tubes for sale

2009-04-04 Thread Bruce McLaughlin
Oh my gosh!  I wonder how he plans to keep dust off the plates.

Bruce-W8FU

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Wiley
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:08 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Tubes for sale



You _really_ can't make this stuff up:


http://hardocp.com/images/news/1237476767fPYMHIsYVF_1_1_l.gif



This was forwarded to me by one of my friends at the ARRL.  I thought 
you guys might enjoy it too.  I'm still laughing.


- Jim, KL7CC

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1, LDG Z11] Builders For Hire

2009-04-04 Thread Phil LaMarche

I can highly recommend Doug Shields who is an engineer and does great work.
Very reasonable and everything is done professionally.

 Doug Shields W4DAS w4...@arrl.net 


Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com 
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
W9DVM 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Paul Perez
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:17 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [KX1, LDG Z11] Builders For Hire

I was considering building or hiring someone to build a KX-1 30/80.

To help me with making that decision I thought I'd revisit a 4 or 5 year old
tuner kit I had on the shelf to help sort it out.  I have a progressive
physical disability that has now brought me to the point where it is hard to
solder components.  I have, in kit form, a partially built LDG Z-11
Automatic Antenna Tuner. It's two boards, 100 components, 400 solder joints.
I've inserted 60-70 components, wound toroids, transformer and soldered
about 10-15 capacitors with Kester 2% silver solder.  Essentially, I've put
it together but can't solder it.

I've tried emailing three or four people on the Elecraft "Builders for Hire"
page but have received emails bounced back as they're obsolete.  I also
called the owner of LDG who could/would not offer any assistance but
suggested the Elecraft reflector.

Is there an Elecraft builder on this listserv who'd be interested in
finishing out this kit with me?

Best,

Dan, AD1P



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly

2009-04-04 Thread Rick Tavan N6XI
Yeah, band buttons would be nice if the panel were larger. But there is a
good work-around that doesn't require a computer. If you're new here, you
may have missed it. Just use quick-recall memories 0-9. This results in two
taps instead of one (M>V, ) but it sets you up with all variables the way
you want them.

I use this mnemonic: Memory 0=160, 1=10, 2=20, 3=30, 4=40, 5=15, 6=60, 7=17,
8=80, 9=12. (That last one isn't really mnemonic.) Some folks go in
frequency sequence. Take the time to set up exactly what you want in both
VFOs on each band. I put my favorite CW freq in VFO A, my favorite SSB freq
in VFO B and set up AGC and DSP parameters just the way I (usually) like
them. It's a breeze once you get it set up.

/Rick N6XI

On 4/3/09, John N1JM  wrote:
>
>
> My only quibble is that I wish it had band buttons( and yes, I know, there
> is software for that and I use HRD) and band stacking registers. I just
> don't like a radio tied to a Mac(or PC) all the time, otherwise I might have
> a Flex :-). But it sure beats my PRO3 and TS480.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] k3 external speaker mono v stereo plug

2009-04-04 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The mod is NOT needed if you have a Rev B KIO3 board in your K3. 

It's easy to see the rev letter on your board by simply opening the top
cover. Details about how to do that are available in the mod document here:

http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/AF_Output_Mod_Rev_C.pdf

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Ken, 
 Thank you for your warning but I am now wondering if it applies to
later SN K3s.   Mine is number 2574 and sure enough I have been using a
mono-plug but in the Config Menu under SPKRS 1 has been selected.   The
manual indicates a preference for stereo plugs but clearly states, "If you
only have a mono plug, set CONFIG:SPKRS to 1 to disable right-channel
audio."   A comment from Elecrafter might be in order to fully clear this
matter up.   In the meantime my external speaker is out until a stereo plug
is wired.   Thank you for the warning.

 73 Doug


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Re: [Elecraft] Tubes for sale

2009-04-04 Thread guy ghisu

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[Elecraft] [KX1, LDG Z11] Builders For Hire

2009-04-04 Thread Daniel Paul Perez
I was considering building or hiring someone to build a KX-1 30/80.

To help me with making that decision I thought I’d revisit a 4 or 5 year 
old tuner kit I had on the shelf to help sort it out.  I have a 
progressive physical disability that has now brought me to the point 
where it is hard to solder components.  I have, in kit form, a partially 
built LDG Z-11 Automatic Antenna Tuner. It’s two boards, 100 components, 
400 solder joints.  I’ve inserted 60-70 components, wound toroids, 
transformer and soldered about 10-15 capacitors with Kester 2% silver 
solder.  Essentially, I've put it together but can't solder it.

I’ve tried emailing three or four people on the Elecraft “Builders for 
Hire” page but have received emails bounced back as they’re obsolete.  I 
also called the owner of LDG who could/would not offer any assistance 
but suggested the Elecraft reflector.

Is there an Elecraft builder on this listserv who’d be interested in 
finishing out this kit with me?

Best,

Dan, AD1P



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[Elecraft] k3 external speaker mono v stereo plug

2009-04-04 Thread Doug Turnbull
Ken, 
 Thank you for your warning but I am now wondering if it applies to
later SN K3s.   Mine is number 2574 and sure enough I have been using a
mono-plug but in the Config Menu under SPKRS 1 has been selected.   The
manual indicates a preference for stereo plugs but clearly states, "If you
only have a mono plug, set CONFIG:SPKRS to 1 to disable right-channel
audio."   A comment from Elecrafter might be in order to fully clear this
matter up.   In the meantime my external speaker is out until a stereo plug
is wired.   Thank you for the warning.

 73 Doug

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[Elecraft] Tubes for sale

2009-04-04 Thread Jim Wiley


You _really_ can't make this stuff up:


http://hardocp.com/images/news/1237476767fPYMHIsYVF_1_1_l.gif



This was forwarded to me by one of my friends at the ARRL.  I thought 
you guys might enjoy it too.  I'm still laughing.


- Jim, KL7CC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

2009-04-04 Thread Ken Kopp
The AF Output mod had been made to (at least) two of  the 
K3's that suffered the audio output IC failure, mine included.

Perhaps the mod only "helps" and that's why the problem took 
months to come to failure.  My board is slightly scorched, and 
the IC "burned up" on another board.

The audio IC is robust, so I'm told, but can only stand so much 
for so long.  BTW, headphone audio still works after the output 
IC's failure.

Perhaps I'm not too smart, in that I had / have two speakers, so 
I chose "two speakers" from the menu. (;-).  Duh!

73! Ken  Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread Wes Stewart

I'm using a pair of Optimus PRO 7AVs.  These work well and the look of the 
black, all metal case matches the K3 very nicely.

I have a spare pair for sale for %50.00 shipped CONUS.

Please contact off list if interested.

Wes  N7WS


--- On Sat, 4/4/09, r miles  wrote:

> From: r miles 
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker
> To: "elecraft" 
> Date: Saturday, April 4, 2009, 9:38 AM
> I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one
> tell me the source for a good speaker for the K3. Any
> enclosure tips too.
> 
> k9il
> K3 #2626
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


The N0SS suggested unamplified Motorola speakers are very good if 
you can find them at a reasonable price.  If you can't ... or 
don't want to go fleamarket shopping there are two other options 
I've found to be very reasonable ... 

Best Buy (www.bestbuy.com) has a pair of 3-way Indoor/Outdoor 
speakers (3 1/2" "bookshelf" speakers) - Insignia SP3Way - for 
about $30 a pair.  I believe they are WA6HHQ's choice ... 

Best Buy and Radio Shack both carry the Sony 5 1/4" two-way 
bookshelf speakers - Model SSB-1000 - for around $50.00. 
I picked up the Sony pair on sale at the local Radio shack 
for around $25 about a year ago.  

Both the Insignia and Sony are unamplified so there is no issue 
with RFI and no need for external power supplies.  They also 
provide a nice "uncolored" frequency response compared to most 
of the small "communications" speakers.  

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 


> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of r miles
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:39 AM
> To: elecraft
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker
> 
> 
> I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one tell me 
> the source for a good speaker for the K3. Any enclosure tips too.
> 
> k9il
> K3 #2626 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

2009-04-04 Thread Jay Rodaman
I guess to many times hitting the "delete" key...should have been "delight"

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jay Rodaman
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

I have also had a similar need for external speakers.
The recommendation from an "unnamed source (heh heh) " on the left coast
was the following


http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7314523&type=product&id=111884
3685964 

they are not very expensive , to the delete of most of us
and seem to work quite well

Jay
 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:18 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

The following may well be obvious to most, but I know of
at least three K3 owners who've been "caught" by plugging
mono plugs into the (stereo) speaker jack.

There is a "gotcha" involved in the use of external speakers
with the K3.  It's addressed indirectly on page 20 of the D2 
version of the manual in the 2nd paragraph under PHONES
when it reads "... if you use a stereo plug at the external 
speaker jack  but is easily glossed over by the reader.

Many / most monaural external speakers have a MONAURAL
plug on their cords.  DON'T plug one of these (monaural) plugs
into the speaker jack.  It's configured for stereo and the sleeve 
of the mono plug will short the ring portion of the stereo jack 
and thereby short one channel of audio.  I ... along with several
others ... have experienced a failure of the audio amplifier IC on 
the front panel board due to one channel being shorted by the 
sleeve of a monaural plug.  It seems to take many hours of  
operation under this condition to cause the IC to fail ... over a 
year in mine and another's case.  The IC is -NOT- an easy change!  

Just remember that one audio channel is on the tip and the other 
is on the ring of the plug and connect speakers in this manner 
using -only- a stereo plug.  My particular "trap" was forgetting that 
using a  stereo "Y" merely moved the "trap" six inches away from 
the jack. (;-)

As others have pointed out, speakers from the two-radio field are 
good choices, and the CB isle at truck stops usually sell nice 
speakers.  Mine are Barjan 320-701's.  Radio Scrap 21-549B's 
are OK, too.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

2009-04-04 Thread Ken Wagner K3IU
There is a mod on the website to fix this problem. Check out the K3 
Enhancements and Application Notes page and look for K3 AF OutPut Mod 
Kit. A simple installation of 2 resistors.
73, Ken K3IU


W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
> I guess I will have to check my speakers.  This is a warning that should be
> in bold in the manual.
>
>  
>
>
> CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
> W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194
>
> "A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
> never get over." Ben Franklin 
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
> Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 12:18 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers
>
> The following may well be obvious to most, but I know of at least three K3
> owners who've been "caught" by plugging mono plugs into the (stereo) speaker
> jack.
>
> There is a "gotcha" involved in the use of external speakers with the K3.
> It's addressed indirectly on page 20 of the D2 version of the manual in the
> 2nd paragraph under PHONES when it reads "... if you use a stereo plug at
> the external speaker jack  but is easily glossed over by the reader.
>
> Many / most monaural external speakers have a MONAURAL plug on their cords.
> DON'T plug one of these (monaural) plugs into the speaker jack.  It's
> configured for stereo and the sleeve of the mono plug will short the ring
> portion of the stereo jack and thereby short one channel of audio.  I ...
> along with several others ... have experienced a failure of the audio
> amplifier IC on the front panel board due to one channel being shorted by
> the sleeve of a monaural plug.  It seems to take many hours of operation
> under this condition to cause the IC to fail ... over a year in mine and
> another's case.  The IC is -NOT- an easy change!  
>
> Just remember that one audio channel is on the tip and the other is on the
> ring of the plug and connect speakers in this manner using -only- a stereo
> plug.  My particular "trap" was forgetting that using a  stereo "Y" merely
> moved the "trap" six inches away from the jack. (;-)
>
> As others have pointed out, speakers from the two-radio field are good
> choices, and the CB isle at truck stops usually sell nice speakers.  Mine
> are Barjan 320-701's.  Radio Scrap 21-549B's are OK, too.
>
> 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
>  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
>  http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
>
>  
> __
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>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

2009-04-04 Thread Jay Rodaman
I have also had a similar need for external speakers.
The recommendation from an "unnamed source (heh heh) " on the left coast
was the following


http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7314523&type=product&id=111884
3685964 

they are not very expensive , to the delete of most of us
and seem to work quite well

Jay
 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:18 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

The following may well be obvious to most, but I know of
at least three K3 owners who've been "caught" by plugging
mono plugs into the (stereo) speaker jack.

There is a "gotcha" involved in the use of external speakers
with the K3.  It's addressed indirectly on page 20 of the D2 
version of the manual in the 2nd paragraph under PHONES
when it reads "... if you use a stereo plug at the external 
speaker jack  but is easily glossed over by the reader.

Many / most monaural external speakers have a MONAURAL
plug on their cords.  DON'T plug one of these (monaural) plugs
into the speaker jack.  It's configured for stereo and the sleeve 
of the mono plug will short the ring portion of the stereo jack 
and thereby short one channel of audio.  I ... along with several
others ... have experienced a failure of the audio amplifier IC on 
the front panel board due to one channel being shorted by the 
sleeve of a monaural plug.  It seems to take many hours of  
operation under this condition to cause the IC to fail ... over a 
year in mine and another's case.  The IC is -NOT- an easy change!  

Just remember that one audio channel is on the tip and the other 
is on the ring of the plug and connect speakers in this manner 
using -only- a stereo plug.  My particular "trap" was forgetting that 
using a  stereo "Y" merely moved the "trap" six inches away from 
the jack. (;-)

As others have pointed out, speakers from the two-radio field are 
good choices, and the CB isle at truck stops usually sell nice 
speakers.  Mine are Barjan 320-701's.  Radio Scrap 21-549B's 
are OK, too.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

2009-04-04 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
I guess I will have to check my speakers.  This is a warning that should be
in bold in the manual.

 


CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194

"A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over." Ben Franklin 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 12:18 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speakers

The following may well be obvious to most, but I know of at least three K3
owners who've been "caught" by plugging mono plugs into the (stereo) speaker
jack.

There is a "gotcha" involved in the use of external speakers with the K3.
It's addressed indirectly on page 20 of the D2 version of the manual in the
2nd paragraph under PHONES when it reads "... if you use a stereo plug at
the external speaker jack  but is easily glossed over by the reader.

Many / most monaural external speakers have a MONAURAL plug on their cords.
DON'T plug one of these (monaural) plugs into the speaker jack.  It's
configured for stereo and the sleeve of the mono plug will short the ring
portion of the stereo jack and thereby short one channel of audio.  I ...
along with several others ... have experienced a failure of the audio
amplifier IC on the front panel board due to one channel being shorted by
the sleeve of a monaural plug.  It seems to take many hours of operation
under this condition to cause the IC to fail ... over a year in mine and
another's case.  The IC is -NOT- an easy change!  

Just remember that one audio channel is on the tip and the other is on the
ring of the plug and connect speakers in this manner using -only- a stereo
plug.  My particular "trap" was forgetting that using a  stereo "Y" merely
moved the "trap" six inches away from the jack. (;-)

As others have pointed out, speakers from the two-radio field are good
choices, and the CB isle at truck stops usually sell nice speakers.  Mine
are Barjan 320-701's.  Radio Scrap 21-549B's are OK, too.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5

 
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[Elecraft] [K3] 2.7 KHz filter available

2009-04-04 Thread Steve Ward
Greetings all,

I just finished my upgrades to my K3 (DVR, some new filters, several of 
the mods) and as a result I now have a surplus KFL3A-2.7K.  If you are 
in need of a filter or are looking for a particular offset, this one is 
-.87 and is available immediately...contact me off list if you are 
intersted.

Steve
AD7OG
K3/100 #1544
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK mode Newbie question

2009-04-04 Thread Bob Cunnings
Press and hold ALT to select the other sideband. See pg 31 of D2 rev
manual, last paragraph of sub-section "Data Mode Selection", which
also describes the REV indication.

Bob NW8L

On Sat, Apr 4, 2009 at 12:12 PM, Patrick Skerrett  wrote:
> Trying to build an interface for FSK mode on my K3 for use with MMTTY.
>
> When I put the rig into data mode & then select the "DATA MD" button and
> spin the sub VFO, I see the option for "FSK  D" mode.
>
> Great, however it also comes up as "USB " and "REV". For me to decode in
> this mode I have to set MMTTY to "Rev" mode.
>
> I thought that FSK mode would be LSB. However, I cannot figure out how
> to change "FSK  D" to use LSB.
>
> Am I just totally confused?
>
> Thanks.
>
> W9PDS
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker - I did what Tom did

2009-04-04 Thread Lee Buller


Tom Hammond's advice was spot on.  I tried three different speakers 
pairsand the best ones were the Motorola speakers.

Lee - K0WA


The New Kansas QSO Party - August 29, Sat 9am-9pm and August 30 Sun 9am-3pm CDT 
More Info at:  http://www.ksqsoparty.org/
 
In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
Common Sense divine?

--- On Sat, 4/4/09, r miles  wrote:
From: r miles 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker
To: "elecraft" 
Date: Saturday, April 4, 2009, 10:38 AM

I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one tell me the source for
a good speaker for the K3. Any enclosure tips too.

k9il
K3 #2626
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[Elecraft] K3 external speakers

2009-04-04 Thread Ken Kopp
The following may well be obvious to most, but I know of
at least three K3 owners who've been "caught" by plugging
mono plugs into the (stereo) speaker jack.

There is a "gotcha" involved in the use of external speakers
with the K3.  It's addressed indirectly on page 20 of the D2 
version of the manual in the 2nd paragraph under PHONES
when it reads "... if you use a stereo plug at the external 
speaker jack  but is easily glossed over by the reader.

Many / most monaural external speakers have a MONAURAL
plug on their cords.  DON'T plug one of these (monaural) plugs
into the speaker jack.  It's configured for stereo and the sleeve 
of the mono plug will short the ring portion of the stereo jack 
and thereby short one channel of audio.  I ... along with several
others ... have experienced a failure of the audio amplifier IC on 
the front panel board due to one channel being shorted by the 
sleeve of a monaural plug.  It seems to take many hours of  
operation under this condition to cause the IC to fail ... over a 
year in mine and another's case.  The IC is -NOT- an easy change!  

Just remember that one audio channel is on the tip and the other 
is on the ring of the plug and connect speakers in this manner 
using -only- a stereo plug.  My particular "trap" was forgetting that 
using a  stereo "Y" merely moved the "trap" six inches away from 
the jack. (;-)

As others have pointed out, speakers from the two-radio field are 
good choices, and the CB isle at truck stops usually sell nice 
speakers.  Mine are Barjan 320-701's.  Radio Scrap 21-549B's 
are OK, too.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5

 
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[Elecraft] K3 FSK mode Newbie question

2009-04-04 Thread Patrick Skerrett
Trying to build an interface for FSK mode on my K3 for use with MMTTY.

When I put the rig into data mode & then select the "DATA MD" button and 
spin the sub VFO, I see the option for "FSK  D" mode.

Great, however it also comes up as "USB " and "REV". For me to decode in 
this mode I have to set MMTTY to "Rev" mode.

I thought that FSK mode would be LSB. However, I cannot figure out how 
to change "FSK  D" to use LSB.

Am I just totally confused?

Thanks.

W9PDS

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[Elecraft] Reminder - UK Elecraft net Sundays 1000 local, 3630 KHz

2009-04-04 Thread Dave G4AON
The frequency is plus or minus the QRM (usually
down a little from 3630). Start time 1000 hours
(local) 0900 UTC.

There will be several of the regulars at the
Blackpool Rally this Sunday, however there will
still be one or two of us around to talk to!

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100, Acom 1000, dipole













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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub-rx wont work

2009-04-04 Thread Alexandr Kobranov
What about roofing filters? Are they defined well and in correct slots?
I remember when I put filter to slot #5 instead of #1 and no signal 
from KRX3. Just idea what to check...

gl
73!
Lexa, ok1dst


DM4iM napsal(a):
> Guys, thank you for all the input.
> Here's the setup
> 
> Config: KRX3 Ant=bnc ( I have no ATU)
> 
> 2-way antenna switch, 1st. cable to ANT1, 2nd cable to AUX
> 
> A: Switch in position ANT1 and MAIN selected: Main RX ok, sub rx a *lot*
> weaker.
> 
> B: Switch in position AUX and AUX selected: sub-rx  a little better than
> before due to the 3-db increase because the antenna now is not shared
> with main rx.
> 
> C: I also hooked the 2nd cable to RX-IN and selected RX-Ant, but same
> performance as B.
> 
> What am i missing?
> 
> 
>  Martin
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub-rx wont work

2009-04-04 Thread DM4iM
Guys, thank you for all the input.
Here's the setup

Config: KRX3 Ant=bnc ( I have no ATU)

2-way antenna switch, 1st. cable to ANT1, 2nd cable to AUX

A: Switch in position ANT1 and MAIN selected: Main RX ok, sub rx a *lot*
weaker.

B: Switch in position AUX and AUX selected: sub-rx  a little better than
before due to the 3-db increase because the antenna now is not shared
with main rx.

C: I also hooked the 2nd cable to RX-IN and selected RX-Ant, but same
performance as B.

What am i missing?


 Martin


-- 

73, DM4iM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Firmware upgrade harder than construction...Help

2009-04-04 Thread John N1JM

I assume you have no regular serial port. Have you tried the adapter with your 
K3 and a control/logging  program like HRD? Some usb to serial adapters are 
quirky.

John N1JM

After 10 months I decided to upgrade my firmware from the original 2.16 
since I just got the KXV3 and KRX3...Frustration!
Have a USB 2.0 to RS232 Serial adapter and have tried it in all my USB 
plugs and in Com ports 1, 2, and 4 which are shown as choices on the K3 
Utility.The computer tells me my driver is correct, I've matched 
9600 baud with the K3 and all I ever get is a "K3 not responding" on Com 
Ports 1 and 2, and "Another app connected to" Com port 4.  I'd just 
order the CD, but that would not solve my communication from the 
computer to the K3.  What should I try next?
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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3%3A-Firmware-upgrade-harder-than-construction...Help-tp2585543p2585615.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Inductive relay "kick"

2009-04-04 Thread Jferg977
Carl,
It appears that my K2 is the only one in the universe to have  experienced 
this problem.  We don't really know what caused the problem,  but it may have 
been due to vagrant high-voltage under the heat sync resulting  from unchecked 
ESD.  Since the two failed caps must have been the weak  links in the area, 
replacing the 50 volt type with 100 ought to improve  things.
 
John
 
 
 
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 10:23:29 -0500
From: Carl, WC?V  
Subject: [Elecraft] Inductive relay  "kick"
To: 
Cc:  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID:  <001e01c9b539$4f37cc70$0202a...@newdesktop>
Content-Type:  text/plain;charset="iso-8859-1"

Don, seriously  disagree about the magnitude of the "kick". For years I 
taught a course on  industrial installations and demo'ed the "kick" issue by 
soldering two bare wire  to the coil of a small Potter and Brumfield "ice cube" 
12 
vdc relay. I would  pick the biggest guy in the class to hold the wires while I 
touched them to a  nine-volt transistor radio battery. And then watch as he 
would throw the relay  across the room. A reverse diode would vastly reduce the 
effect.

Well, I  got yelled at and was told "Hey, Stupid (and stupid wasn't the word 
they used)!  Put that on a storage scope to see what you're messing with." The 
scope showed a  spike of 450 vdc! The diode reduced it to less than 75 vdc. 

The  magnitude is due mainly to the large inductance of the coil, but until 
some  measurements are taken, some caution is advised. The inductance of any 
coil  inside a K2 or K3 is bound to be much smaller. But the phenomenon is the  
same.

73, Carl WC0V
 
**Hurry! April 15th is almost here. File your Federal taxes FREE 
with TaxACT. 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220239440x1201335902/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.taxact.com%2F08tax.asp%3Fsc%3D084102950001%26p%3D82)
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[Elecraft] K3: Firmware upgrade harder than construction...Help

2009-04-04 Thread Jay
After 10 months I decided to upgrade my firmware from the original 2.16 
since I just got the KXV3 and KRX3...Frustration!
Have a USB 2.0 to RS232 Serial adapter and have tried it in all my USB 
plugs and in Com ports 1, 2, and 4 which are shown as choices on the K3 
Utility.The computer tells me my driver is correct, I've matched 
9600 baud with the K3 and all I ever get is a "K3 not responding" on Com 
Ports 1 and 2, and "Another app connected to" Com port 4.  I'd just 
order the CD, but that would not solve my communication from the 
computer to the K3.  What should I try next?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread Craig D. Smith

<> Any one tell me the source for a good speaker for the K3?

I'm using the West Mountain Radio "COMspkr"s and like them a lot.
Reasonably priced, small enclosures, RFI resistant and allow you to enjoy
the K3 AFX effects.

 ... Craig  AC0DS


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
I had a pair of FT-2000's with matching speakers.  I sold the 2000's and
kept the speakers.  They work pretty well.

Mike 


CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194

"A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over." Ben Franklin 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil LaMarche
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 10:00 AM
To: 'r miles'
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker


I have a choice of two speakers that work very well.  I power the K3 through
a 100 watt amplifier to two book case speakers on the wall, pointed at me.
I also have he Wet Mountain radio's COMSpkr's that are under a 100.00 and
really work well and sound exceptional.

Google West Mountain radio.  I believe they are around 50 bucks.

Phil


Philip LaMarche
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com
800-395-7795 pin 02
727-944-3226
FAX 727-937-8834
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
W9DVM 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of r miles
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:39 AM
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one tell me the source for
a good speaker for the K3. Any enclosure tips too.

k9il
K3 #2626
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread Tom Hammond
"R":

For me, the best choice was a couple Motorola UNamplified Mobile speakers
from EBay.

I managed to find a matching pair of NEW speakers for $10 + shipping.

You'll want TWO (2) speakers so you can take full advantage of the AFX
features of the K3.

My particular speakers were model HSN4018B, but I have several others
which appear to be identical save for a possibly different color, which
show model HSN4000A.

They work great and I like having the removable mounting mounting bracket
as well.

Note: You could use the AMPLIFIED Motorola mobile speakers as well (lots of
modification info for these on my web site at www.n0ss.net), but you really
don't need the 5W-15W of amplified audio unless you're in a really noisy
location.  Additionally, any time you use an amplified speaker you always
run the chance of getting RFI into the audio lines of the speaker... not a
fun problem to have to find/fix.

73,

Tom HammondN0Ss


At 10:38 04/04/2009, you wrote:
>I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one tell me the 
>source for a good speaker for the K3. Any enclosure tips too.
>
>k9il
>K3 #2626
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread Phil LaMarche

I have a choice of two speakers that work very well.  I power the K3 through
a 100 watt amplifier to two book case speakers on the wall, pointed at me.
I also have he Wet Mountain radio's COMSpkr's that are under a 100.00 and
really work well and sound exceptional.

Google West Mountain radio.  I believe they are around 50 bucks.

Phil


Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com 
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
W9DVM 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of r miles
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:39 AM
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one tell me the source for
a good speaker for the K3. Any enclosure tips too.

k9il
K3 #2626
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread VE3NFK


I tried a few portable stereo speakers with subwoofers for iPods etc.. they 
work well for me - reasonable price (not cheap) and very nice sound  - I ended 
up using the 'Edifier MP100'  - they are powered and a little vol control on 
top of one of the speakers - which allows you to tailor your sound more.

73  John VE3NFK


I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one tell me the source for a 
good speaker for the K3. Any enclosure tips too.

k9il
K3 #2626
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-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-external-speaker-tp2585428p2585478.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] FW 3.06 - 6m missing

2009-04-04 Thread Gregory Fischer
Arie,
Are you changing bands from the K3 band up/dn button or are you using  
some software program to select the bands?

73
Greg
AB7R

On Apr 3, 2009, at 10:39 PM, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:

> Loaded FW 3.06 yesterday. All OK except
>
> This morning I cycled through the bands and found 6 meters missing.
> I am sure that 6m is mapped in. Checked that with K3-EZ and in the
> config.
>
> What happens is this:
> Cycle up through the different bands and after the 10m band comes  
> 6m? No
> band noise, not even with pre-amp on.
> AND the display says 30.000.00
> Touching the VFO changes the display to 29.999.99 and the band noise
> comes in. So probably I'm back at 10m.
>
> Another thing I tried was this:
> Switch to config and go to the band mapping.
> Cycle through the bands until you reach 6m, and yes it is mapped in.
> Leave config.
> Display is at 30.000.00 and K3 reacts the same as mentioned above.
>
>
> Only band I have mapped out is 60m.
>
>
> Am I the only one with this problem? Or maybe I've missed something.
>
>
> 73
> Arie PA3A
> K3 #1255
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread Matt Zilmer
These work well:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Motorola-Spectra-Speaker-HSN6001A-Speakers_W0QQitemZ180341919310QQcmdZViewItemQQptZ2_Way_Radios_FRS?hash=item180341919310&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50
(copy the whole URL).

73,
matt

On Sat, 04 Apr 2009 11:38:56 -0400, you wrote:

>I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one tell me the source for a 
>good speaker for the K3. Any enclosure tips too.
>
>k9il
>K3 #2626
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Re: [Elecraft] WTB pre-owned K3

2009-04-04 Thread Bill Harris

Thanks Dale.  Great to know I'm over the DZ. Hope there's no flack.

Later

BH

P.S.  Will consider a PJ K3 

.-.-.


From: daleput...@hotmail.com
To: w7...@msn.com
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] WTB pre-owned K3
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 09:31:35 -0600



You're on target. Here's the place... 
Good Luck!

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


 
> From: w7...@msn.com
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 08:29:07 -0700
> Subject: [Elecraft] WTB pre-owned K3
> 
> 
> Hello all
> 
> Was advised this would be a good place to start looking for a K3/100. I'm 
> thinking I need (?) a second one.
> 
> TFYT
> 
> BillHarris
> 
> w7kxb/7 AZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Six Meters Missing

2009-04-04 Thread Dave Agsten
I noticed that when cycling thru the bands after 3.06 that 30Mhz was displayed 
instead of a 6 meter frequency too. I simply direct entered 50.125 and all is 
well when cycling thru the bands from either direction.

73,
Dave N8AG


  
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[Elecraft] K3 external speaker

2009-04-04 Thread r miles
I'm using an old car stereo door speaker now. Any one tell me the source for a 
good speaker for the K3. Any enclosure tips too.

k9il
K3 #2626
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: K3 2803 Firmware Problem

2009-04-04 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
You can ship the radio back and have Elecraft check it out.  If it is a
board problem I believe they will take care of it for you. 


CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194

"A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over." Ben Franklin 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Haffly
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 10:51 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Fw: K3 2803 Firmware Problem

The problems continue with K3 #2803
The problem is still unable to load FPF or DSP firmware. MCU loads fine.
I have used two different computers in an attempt to load the firmware. On
each computer I have used the KUSB and a 9 pin straight thru serial cable.
That doesn't work.
I have reloaded the K3 utility to make sure it is the latest version and
still no luck.
In numerous e mails with Gary we thought trying a new front panel board
might work. Wrong , After installing a new front panel board same problem.
On page 63 of the owners manual if I hold in the shift / Lo knob while
turning on the power I am suppose to see EE INT. All I see is ERR EE2.

The K3 is a nice looking radio and maybe one day it will work but , Right
now , Very frustrated to say the least.

Glenn
K5ZE
- Original Message -
From: "Glenn Haffly" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 9:48 AM
Subject: K3 2803 Firmware Problem


> Good morning all , I have a problem with firmware upload to my K3. All I 
> can load is MCU. The FBF fails at load address x0040.
> I have used two different computers using both a 9 pin straight through 
> and the KUSB. I have the latest K3 utility.
> When loading from a past configuration I receive an error message Verify 
> Failed at EEPROM address 131.224
> I have corresponded with Gary at Elecraft several times and did check 
> those items he suggested. As of yet , Gary's suggestion have not worked.
> I have yet to get a full firmware download. Does anyone have suggestions 
> for me to check or does the radio have a problem and need to go
> back for repair at Elecraft?
>
> Thank you
> Glenn
> K5ZE 

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[Elecraft] K3: All-mode squelch suggestions

2009-04-04 Thread KM5Q
Based on FW 3.04, here's what I would like to see, so I'll toss it  
around:

I would like a timed decay, so when the sound goes off, it doesn't do  
it abruptly, but with a timed decay. This will make listening more  
pleasant, less choppy.

I'd also like ability to CONFIG a squelched volume to something more  
than zero, so it would still be slightly audible.

In SSB mode, adjusting the SQL shows the setting numerically on the  
VFO B screen. In CW mode, it does not. I'm not sure I care, but I  
don't see why it shouldn't be consistent between those modes. There  
could be a CONFIG to choose whether to see it on the screen or not.

Good work!
Windy KM5Q
K3 #764


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[Elecraft] WTB pre-owned K3

2009-04-04 Thread Bill Harris

Hello all

Was advised this would be a good place to start looking for a K3/100.  I'm 
thinking I need (?) a second one.

TFYT

BillHarris

w7kxb/7 AZ
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[Elecraft] Inductive relay "kick"

2009-04-04 Thread Carl , WCØV
Don, seriously disagree about the magnitude of the "kick". For years I taught a 
course on industrial installations and demo'ed the "kick" issue by soldering 
two bare wire to the coil of a small Potter and Brumfield "ice cube" 12 vdc 
relay. I would pick the biggest guy in the class to hold the wires while I 
touched them to a nine-volt transistor radio battery. And then watch as he 
would throw the relay across the room. A reverse diode would vastly reduce the 
effect.

Well, I got yelled at and was told "Hey, Stupid (and stupid wasn't the word 
they used)! Put that on a storage scope to see what you're messing with." The 
scope showed a spike of 450 vdc! The diode reduced it to less than 75 vdc. 

The magnitude is due mainly to the large inductance of the coil, but until some 
measurements are taken, some caution is advised. The inductance of any coil 
inside a K2 or K3 is bound to be much smaller. But the phenomenon is the same.

73, Carl WC0V
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[Elecraft] OT: Home Energy Audit Website

2009-04-04 Thread Bill W4ZV

Wayne's comments about energy savings prompts me to share the following website 
with everyone.  This is a **very** comprehensive model developed by Lawrence 
Berkeley National Laboratory.  I recently discovered it while investigating 
potential savings to convert my present air exchange heat pump to a ground 
source heat pump.  In my case, the model very accurately (<5% error) predicted 
our total annual household energy usage compared to our actual electric bill 
(13,288 kWh per year total for all energy).  The model provides estimated 
savings and ROI for improving energy usage options (one of which is switching 
to more efficient lighting as Wayne did).   In my case, out total heating and 
cooling usage was already so low (~$500 per year) that conversion from a 
reasonably efficient air source heat pump (SEER 13.0) to ground source was not 
justified on an ROI basis.

http://hes.lbl.gov/

While the heat pump conversion was not economically justifiable, I did discover 
one startling fact.  I've been in the habit of leaving the tower computer in my 
shack on continuously (without going into sleep mode).   Assuming 200 W/hr 
consumption, this amounts to 1,752 kWh per year ($185 per year at our $0.106 
per kWh rate) which is a staggering 13% of my total energy bill!  Needless to 
say I'm no longer leaving that computer on.

If you carefully enter the data for your household into the model above, you 
may discover some cost effective alternatives for saving energy...and money.  
It takes awhile to enter all the data accurately but I found it well worthwhile.

73,  Bill  W4ZV

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/OT%3A-Home-Energy-Audit-Website-tp2585137p2585137.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub-rx wont work

2009-04-04 Thread Monty Shultes
Martin -
What type of antenna do you have attached to the BNC jack?  Which antenna is 
selected with the ANT button? Are you listening in a ham band or outside?

Monty K2DLJ

> Guys, the Main-RX and TX of K3 #2878 are up and running, thanks to the
> hints from Markus and Chen.
>
> But not the sub-rx.
>
> All plugs mated
> Checked the tmp-cables
> Performed the calibration
> No err-msgs
> Sub-RX in config-menu set to *yes, installed*
> ant = bnc
>
> no receive, only noise like there is no antenna connected,
> noise characteristics change with selected filter (Bandwith/shift)
>
> Faint signals from *strong* stations.
>
> Signals from my K2 sound ok when i transmit into a dummy load and
> receive them with the K3 sub-rx.
>
> So the sub-rx is not dead, but deaf.
>
> The K3 has sub-rx, KXV3, equal filters ssb/cw on both rx's , *no* KAT3.
>
> Where to begin the troubleshooting?
>
> Martin
>
> -- 
>
> 73, DM4iM
>
> K2 #2706 , K3 #2878
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[Elecraft] [K3] Sub-rx wont work

2009-04-04 Thread DM4iM
Guys, the Main-RX and TX of K3 #2878 are up and running, thanks to the
hints from Markus and Chen.

But not the sub-rx.

All plugs mated
Checked the tmp-cables
Performed the calibration
No err-msgs
Sub-RX in config-menu set to *yes, installed*
ant = bnc

no receive, only noise like there is no antenna connected,
noise characteristics change with selected filter (Bandwith/shift)

Faint signals from *strong* stations.

Signals from my K2 sound ok when i transmit into a dummy load and
receive them with the K3 sub-rx.

So the sub-rx is not dead, but deaf.

The K3 has sub-rx, KXV3, equal filters ssb/cw on both rx's , *no* KAT3.

Where to begin the troubleshooting?

Martin

-- 

73, DM4iM

K2 #2706 , K3 #2878
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Re: [Elecraft] K2: KPA 100 Capacitor Specification?

2009-04-04 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
John,

If the voltage rating of these relay coil bypass caps is somehow being 
exceeded in your shipboard installation causing the caps to fail, and if you 
cannot find suitable higher DC voltage rated leaded replacements, you might 
like to consider using SMD (chip) capacitors instead.

AVX include in their product line of multilayer ceramic SMD capacitors for 
low frequency use, as opposed to microwave rated devices, .01uF  100 VDC 
caps in both 0805 and 1206 sizes, and 0.015 uF caps rated at 500 and 600 VDC 
in 1206 packages.

I have no financial interest in AVX, but do use their microwave rated 
capacitors.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


Don Wilhelm wrote on Friday, April 03, 2009 at 3:29 PM.

> John,
>
> I have never found one of those caps shorted, and I believe the DC
> rating on them is 50 volts, so they should have an adequate safety
> margin since they are used in a 12 volt DC circuit.
> I have trouble imagining a condition that would cause them to fail, but
> then I recall that your 'shipboard' operation is unusual and may
> introduce 'perils' that I cannot imagine.
> There would be no harm in replacing those capacitors with 100 volt caps
> *if* you can get them to fit physically.  You may have to solder them
> flat against the bottom of the board.  The other problem is that 100
> volt caps may be difficult to procure with 0.1 inch lead spacing and you
> may have to get creative to substitute caps with 0.2 inch lead spacing.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] totally OT, except to the extent that it's QRP: LED lamps

2009-04-04 Thread Peter Connors
I think that's 50, MTBF. I've got one here that stopped working 
after a week - I guess there is a 100,000 hour unit waiting to be picked 
up out there :-)
Hmm. It does say 'RoHS' on the base...

Pete F5VNB

wayne burdick wrote:
> Hi Allen,
> 
> The new LED bulbs are rated for 5 hours, but this is a guess, 
> because they haven't burned out yet even in accellerated life tests :)
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] totally OT, except to the extent that it's QRP: LED lamps

2009-04-04 Thread David Cutter
Perhaps the time is now right to replace domestic lighting circuits with 12V 
supply, then the cost of the fitments will come down, ie no need for 
110/240V conversion to low dc for the leds.  Safer, cheaper, more reliable, 
less raw materials.  At those power levels, you could probably keep the 
original house wiring and just fit a 12V transformer/rectifier.  Easier to 
use alternative power sources, too.

Be nice if we had your prices over here.

David
G3UNA


- Original Message - 
From: "wayne burdick" 
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 9:59 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] totally OT, except to the extent that it's QRP: LED 
lamps


>I just replaced four gas-guzzling incandescent lamps in my dining room
> chandelier with four LED lamps that screw into the same bases. Went
> from 240 watts to 6 watts, total.
>
> The usual complaint about LED lamps is the cost. But prices are coming
> down fast: these were only about $4 each at Costco. Each contains 21
> white LEDs, and they basically last forever, which means I won't
> constantly be replacing lamps in this fixture.
>
> If the world converts to LED lighting, we won't need to build any more
> power plants, and we can all use KW amps guilt-free :)
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
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Re: [Elecraft] FW 3.06 - 6m missing

2009-04-04 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A

I've made some progress, thanks to the tips I got to my direct mailbox.
Thanks.

I'll report back later this day.

73
Arie PA3A

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