[Elecraft] K3 - Faulty VFO B encoder
Greg It's a faulty encoder - I had two of them go bad with these same symptoms. Talk to the guys at supp...@elecraft.com and they will replace it. 73 Tom G3OLB I have a K3 SN 1553 When I first power up the K3 the VFO B works correctly. After about 1 minute it starts to get eratic and then stops working completly. I have re-loaded the latest (non Beta) Firmware. I checked to to see that the VFO B encoder is properly seated to the connector. Seems like a temperature related problem. FP temp is normal 27 C Has anyone seen a similar problem or have any hints where to start troubleshooting? Thanks,? Greg WA1JXR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Mods/Addition suggestions for order of installplease
Very true, but how many times do you want to strip down the rig with the risk that implies to fastener failure, static damage, scratches etc? 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 -- Ideas are like rabbits. You get a couple and learn how to handle them, and pretty soon you have a dozen. --John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968) On 7 Apr 2009, at 04:47, Fred Atchley wrote: Jay, you may want to consider doing one mod at a time. That way, if something goes wrong you know exactly where to look. If you do all then you may be looking for a needle in a haystack. 73, Fred, AE6IC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] PSK 31
Ron, For PSK31 i use Digipan since many years and HRD since ~ 1 year; if you want to have a waterfall display, i think that external software, PC and sound card are a necessity. I've just tried to work PSK31 with my K3 (#1212), no problem with RX, but i find that transmitting is less easy, it's my point of vue, than using Digipan (for example); i find it easy to use and we have also a panoramic sight of in filter band adjacent stations. I also appreciate the Tune mode of Digipan; after one year of HRD use, i don't find the equivalent function... 73 QRO de Rudolf, HB9ARI PS No relation with Digipan writer(s), just a very satisfied user! Ron Midwin wrote: Gentlemen: I've been playing around with PSK-31 and can sort of get it working, using the K-3 and the Elecraft software. I am able to send by typing text into the software, and someone on the same frequency can hear and copy me. I was having difficulty copying him, even thought I was hear his warble. I also have a copy of HRD, which is quite complicated to use, so I've put that off, even though I hear great things about it. My question is, does anyone have an application note; PSK-31 on a K-3 for dummies, that would give me a simple way to play with it? I've used PSK-31 before on a previous 746 Pro and a Tigertronics USB box, and it worked fine. I was able to see the waterfall on my computer screen and could select a signal by clicking on the signal on the display. Not sure if I can still do this using elecraft software? I have my K-3 connected to my laptop computer with a USB-serial adapter, which works fine. Do I need to use the sound card in my laptop too? Thanks, Ron AE6RH S/N 1997 Ron Midwin __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio
Yes, that is great service! I was not aware the my question on the reflector would stir thing up the way it dit. I´m not verry technical and I thought I had some setting messed up with my K3 which resulted in the bad audio. Given all the great response on the reflector I´m kind of lost in all the things that could be causing the less then diserable audio. In hindsite I feel that maybe it was better to contact Elecraft personaly. But again, I was not aware that I would lead to this much response. I am greatfull that Wayne is willing to help me out with this. It might take a wile before I can get the audio recordings because I´m not quiet sure how to make those recordings. Making the recordings shouldn´t be that hard, getting the Icom next to my K3 is a different problem. We use our own radio´s at our contest station and last time I brought my K3 and another operator brought his IC-7700. I can make a comparison with a FT 1000D from a friend who lives nearby. Thank you Wayne for your offer to sort this out, I´ll try to make the recordings a.s.a.p. Best 73 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio
Oeps, forgot to take out the typo´s, pressed the send button to soon. Sorry about that. 2009/4/7 Maarten van Rossum pd2r.maar...@gmail.com Yes, that is great service! I was not aware the my question on the reflector would stir thing up the way it dit. I´m not verry technical and I thought I had some setting messed up with my K3 which resulted in the bad audio. Given all the great response on the reflector I´m kind of lost in all the things that could be causing the less then diserable audio. In hindsite I feel that maybe it was better to contact Elecraft personaly. But again, I was not aware that I would lead to this much response. I am greatfull that Wayne is willing to help me out with this. It might take a wile before I can get the audio recordings because I´m not quiet sure how to make those recordings. Making the recordings shouldn´t be that hard, getting the Icom next to my K3 is a different problem. We use our own radio´s at our contest station and last time I brought my K3 and another operator brought his IC-7700. I can make a comparison with a FT 1000D from a friend who lives nearby. Thank you Wayne for your offer to sort this out, I´ll try to make the recordings a.s.a.p. Best 73 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] My K3's hissy and noisy audio
Using Heil ProSet here and very satisfied with the K3's audio for communications use. Bryan, Zl1NI On the other hand, plug a Heil ProSet with its 200 Ohm elements into an unmodified K3 and the -3dB point is 80 Hz ... low enough for communications use without being overly sensitive to hum and other low frequency noise, Similarly, with 8 Ohm speakers, the -3 dB point is 40 Hz with the 470 uF coupling capacitors in the speaker amp. 73, ... Joe, W4TV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Error message
Jim W4TE In revision D2 of the Owner's Manual Jan 1 2009, page 67 Error Message List, it explains ERR PL1/2 and corrective action. 73 Rob, G3RCE K2 #5219 and K3 #2855 (Whenever I turn on my K3 I see ERR PL2 go across the screen then everything else seems to come up fine. What is this error message?) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Explanation why Thailand bans hf transceivers with 6 m capability: military use of 6 m
The discussion in this thread completely misses the point: there are administrations who do not allow people to be in possession of radio equipment capable of operating on frequencies those people aren't allowed to use. This is probably more common in Asia now than anywhere else. Singapore is one place that comes to mind that until recently was quite strict it is far from being a backwards place. Likewise here in Hongkong, our existing law regulations were almost applied in the strictest sense, the result would have been that no radio could be used by any amateur as there has been, nor is there currently any product on the market that would not operate one cycle outside of the frequencies we are allowed to use. Even more so on 50 Mc. Pity those in the province of Taiwan, where if you have something less than the highest class of amateur licence, the local telecom authority insists that your equipment not be capable of operating beyond the restrictions of that licence. On the bright side, it does help these guys from doing things they aren't allowed to do - from my own experience being called by Ws well outside the frequencies allowed for phone operation in USA, perhaps this is something the FCC should do, too. If a company wants to sell its products into other markets, the product needs to be suitable for that market. Other manufacturers have adapted to these requirements, perhaps it will not be possible for Elecraft to do the same. Ultimately, the looser will be Elecraft. A good example of this is the motor market, which used to be dominated by Detroit. But then they stopped making RHD vehicles although that is no longer the case, we don't buy your cars anymore. 73, ex-VR2BG/p. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hissy and Noisy Audio
Hi Joe, You wrote: Please NO! I already run RX Audio bands 1 and 2 at -16 dB to eliminate excessive bass - no more bass, please! You also wrote: You won't see much on the headphone output because of the 10 uF coupling capacitors. The effect is quite obvious on both the speaker output and the line output (if you have made the line out modification [R19/20] in K3AF Mod Rev 3). If you replace the 10 uF headphone coupling capacitors with 330 uF caps as recommended by W9AC the headphone output will more like a good external speaker. On Paul's mods, I've been there and done that on both a stock K3 and a modified one. I still don't hear the excessive bass you were mentioning and more important I can't measure it! I went back this morning and measured the speaker out and for that matter all other outputs for fun. When I go to RX EQ bands 1 and 2 and put them at -16 dB I see a gentle roll off starting at 200 hz. However I see the same gentle roll off at zero dB on RX EQ bands 1 and 2. On the line output I see a little less bass than the other outputs and I would expect this since it has a transformer in line that the speaker and phone output doesn't. In fact I don't see a change if I go crazy boosting RX RQ bands 1 and 2. Joe, I am not complaining mind you, I am just not seeing this excessive bass you posted in your message at zero or a huge reduction in bass response at -16 on bands 1 and 2. LO cut is still at 0, I am still on LSB at 2.8 BW. So I am still must be missing something here. BTW this K3 has all the AF, speaker mods, per the K3 Enhancement and Application Notes page. Also I do run from time to time a nice bookshelve and external amp speaker system. The walls are very safe here from excessive bass response. 73 de jay/w5jay.. Looking at Spectra right out of the Phones output, I don't see where bands 1or 2 do all that much in lowering K3's bass. You won't see much on the headphone output because of the 10 uF coupling capacitors. The effect is quite obvious on both the speaker output and the line output (if you have made the line out modification [R19/20] in K3AF Mod Rev 3). If you replace the 10 uF headphone coupling capacitors with 330 uF caps as recommended by W9AC the headphone output will more like a good external speaker. 73, ... Joe, W4TV Hi Joe, Looking at Spectra right out of the Phones output, I don't see where bands 1or 2 do all that much in lowering K3's bass. Having the rig on SSB using the 2.7 Khz filter, the Lo on 0, I see no change on bands 1 and 2 when I set them to -16. What I am missing here? I have never seen or heard too much bass in the K3. I did a plot at 0 dB, one at -16 on band 1 and another one on -16 on band 2 if anyone would like to see them. 73 de w5jay/jay.. Perhaps NR could also be improved with more low frequencies in the passband. Please NO! I already run RX Audio bands 1 and 2 at -16 dB to eliminate excessive bass - no more bass, please! The hiss many seem to be complaining about is broadband noise in the audio (speaker) and/or headphone amplifier. It is more noticeable when driving low impedance loads (8/16 Ohm) due to the relatively high gain (14 dB) of the speaker amplifier and the high frequency boosting effect of the 33 pF capacitors in parallel with the gain setting (feedback resistors). 73, ... Joe, W4TV I concur with what has been said regarding the hissy audio. The receiver audio seems to be on the mid-range to high frequency side without enough low frequencies in the passband. Experiments with RX EQ apparently have not done anything to eliminate this hiss, but maybe the firmware can be adjusted to increase the low-end response of the receiver passband. If this doesn't work, maybe a component change is in order. I also think the noise reduction is too sharp in both SSB and CW. Perhaps NR could also be improved with more low frequencies in the passband. Roy Morris W4WFB K2 #2225 K3 #323 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: J and -31 mix toroids
Thanks to all for the replies... Didn't quite get an answer to the -J versus -31, but still useful. Jim, ask for a quote from whom? WX0B or Fair-Rite? Cheers, Julius On Mon, 06 Apr 2009 17:03:50 -0400, Jack Smith wrote: You might wish to experiment with Steward mix 35 or 40 toroids. Mix 35 has a relative permeability of 5000 and mix 40 is 10,000. Fair-Rite's 31 material has a relative permeability of 1500. Relative permeabilility varies with frequency -- it is NOT a constant (unless you use a parallel equivalent circuit). The numbers you are quoting are low frequency values. Steward's 35 and 40 material are MnZn ferrites and will have dimensional resonance in the HF frequency range, with the exact frequency depending on the core dimension. I suspect that dimensional resonance won't be an issue for a current choke at your frequency range, however. Fair-Rite claims the 31 material, although also a MnZn ferrite, does not have dimensional resonance. Fair-Rite has always said that -- they said it to me six years ago when I first convinced them to make #31 toroids! Perhaps they said it because they viewed it as a negative. Or perhaps they wanted to throw off their competitors. :) But our data for multiturn chokes disproves that! Fair-Rite #31 DOES have a mild dimensional resonance in the 2-5 MHz range. That is what gives the pronounced broadening of the impedance curve when you wind enough turns to move the circuit resonance below 5 MHz! That is, the dimensional resonance and the circuit resonance combine to act as very low Q stagger tuned circuits, extending the usefulness of the choke by something on the order of 3/4 octave as compared to materials like #43. That means that a single choke on #31 can cover 160, 80, and 40 effectively, and still be decent on 30M. With fewer turns it can cover 80-20. And so on. Type 43 is a NiZn ferrite and does not have dimensional resonance in the HF frequency band. In general, NiZn ferrites exhibit no measureable dimensional resonance because it occurs at VHF, where it is damped by the loss in the core. To answer Julius's question directly. See my Choke Cookbook for specific recommendations on winding chokes for the HF bands. http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf BTW -- I just got an email from Jay Terleski, WX0B, telling me that he is now stocking #31 toroids, bought out Fair-Rite's stock (900 pieces), and has more on order. He didn't quote prices. Jay also told me that he is now using #31 material for the high power transmitting chokes that he builds. I suggest that you ask for a quote on at least 20 pieces. As active as you are, you'll put them to good use in a few months! 73, Jim Brown K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html - Julius Fazekas N2WN Tennessee Contest Group http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html Tennessee QSO Party http://www.tnqp.org/ Elecraft K2/100 #4455 Elecraft K3/100 #366 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/OT%3A-J-and--31-mix-toroids-tp2593939p2598678.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hissy and Noisy Audio
1 and 2. On the line output I see a little less bass than the other outputs and I would expect this since it has a transformer in line that the speaker and phone output doesn't. In fact I don't see a change if I go crazy boosting RX RQ bands 1 and 2. Jay, Here are my SpectraPlus FFT plots for the IC-7800 (Magenta), IC-7700 (Blue), Ten Tec Omni VII (Red), and Elecraft K3 (Yellow). Each plot was taken from the respective headphone output and the volume level adjusted in order to show an uncluttered overlay. http://216.229.20.37/images/ResponsePlots.JPG To achieve a reasonably flat low-end response on the K3 requires an FC shift to about 1.25 from 1.50. But in doing so, note how the high end response is now limited to about 3.2 kHz (See yellow trace). Not surprising, the IC-7700 and IC-7800 traces can be laid on top of each with a nearly identical response. Both produce a response bump between 100 Hz - 300 Hz. The Ten Tec Omni VII produces the best overall Rx response of the four rigs tested. I wish I still had the TS-870 for these tests as it measured ruler-flat out of the box from 30 Hz to 6 kHz. Regarding the K3's Rx EQ, I see substantial Rx EQ changes on bands 2-8 when adjustments are made, but no change on band 1 when adjusted from one extreme to the other. It simply has no effect. I've tried various alternate settings to see if I could engage band 1 to move, but so far, no luck. It doesn't bother me as I leave the EQ flat. Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] My K3's hissy and noisy audio
VR2BG wrote: The K3 apparently has the same sort of energy on its audio output, but because it is so many dB down, when the news broke it was dismissed as a non-issue. Some folks have better hearing than others. Reproduction of the sound can also vary due to differences in speakers headphones. All the variables could add together enough to reach the point where the effect is noticeable; they just as easily combine to something less. I hope Elecraft looks at issues like this more objectively than its user community appears to sometimes. And cheers to those who will say what some don't want to hear, is the only way things can get sorted out. I'm sure Wayne will find this problem. The fact that many variables may be involved seems to be causing some to experience it and others not (luckily I'm one of the latter). The key is to get some good recordings and forward them to Elecraft with detailed setup descriptions including external devices (headphones, speakers, etc). Once the problem can be quantified, I'm sure the solution will come very quickly. 73, Bill W4ZV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hissy and Noisy Audio
At present I do not have a K3. I do have an old Tentec 580 Delta and a Icom 703 plus, KX1. The enclosed speakers in both rigs perform nicely. However, I use a ADCOM digital Speaker on both rigs and it makes a big difference. I have had a lot of rigs like Drake, Swan Etc, If the speaker was in the same enclosure with the Power supply no improvement was needed. On the KX1 I have an old, really old Audio Amp. from Radio Shack and it produces some beautiful audio. It seems when the speaker is in the radio... It is tolerable bur an outboard speaker is better. Just my opinion. Paul Gates, KD3JF --- On Mon, 4/6/09, John Klewer n...@speakeasy.net wrote: From: John Klewer n...@speakeasy.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Hissy and Noisy Audio To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 11:46 PM Perhaps I'm in the minority hereusing some nice quality hi-fi bookshelf speakers.I love the way the K3 sounds. YMMV John, N6AX Mike Scott wrote: Audio is notorious for having a very subjective vocabulary, and this may make it hard to understand what is meant. I hear terms like hissy, rounder, lack of bass etc in this discussion. In an attempt to make this discussion more to the point I would suggest this list compiled by Bruce Bartlett from Pro Audio 1997. I find it helpful in making discussions focused: http://www.linkwitzlab.com/images/graphics/sd-qulty.gif According to the list, I would suggest that those who have a problem with the K3 audio look up these terms: 'bright', 'edgy', 'grainy', 'grungy', 'hard', 'harsh', 'muddy', 'piercing', 'thin' to find what best describes what they hear. That may give a common ground for describing the effects. Okay, based on the referenced descriptions I can 100% definitely with absolute assurance say that my K3 audio is edgy, grainy, grungy and strident. Now can we get on with a solution? Mike Scott Tarzana, CA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Explanation why Thailand bans hf transceivers with 6 m capability: military use of 6 m
Hi Brett, I would think for Elecraft, it's the economy of scale. How many sales are they losing versus the effectiveness of providing a modified radio? I suspect not enough to make it worth the effort. Consider the RoHS issues they had to resolve to go into the EU market... Government/Military restrictions have always been a part of the Amateur Radio story, realistic or not. The US auto manufacturers are, IMHO, not a good comparison to Elecraft. Elecraft is much more responsive to customer demands and lacks the decades of arrogance exhibited by Detroit. Hope you're doing well over there, miss ya on the bands :o) 73, Julius The discussion in this thread completely misses the point: there are administrations who do not allow people to be in possession of radio equipment capable of operating on frequencies those people aren't allowed to use. This is probably more common in Asia now than anywhere else. Singapore is one place that comes to mind that until recently was quite strict it is far from being a backwards place. Likewise here in Hongkong, our existing law regulations were almost applied in the strictest sense, the result would have been that no radio could be used by any amateur as there has been, nor is there currently any product on the market that would not operate one cycle outside of the frequencies we are allowed to use. Even more so on 50 Mc. Pity those in the province of Taiwan, where if you have something less than the highest class of amateur licence, the local telecom authority insists that your equipment not be capable of operating beyond the restrictions of that licence. On the bright side, it does help these guys from doing things they aren't allowed to do - from my own experience being called by Ws well outside the frequencies allowed for phone operation in USA, perhaps this is something the FCC should do, too. If a company wants to sell its products into other markets, the product needs to be suitable for that market. Other manufacturers have adapted to these requirements, perhaps it will not be possible for Elecraft to do the same. Ultimately, the looser will be Elecraft. A good example of this is the motor market, which used to be dominated by Detroit. But then they stopped making RHD vehicles although that is no longer the case, we don't buy your cars anymore. 73, ex-VR2BG/p. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html - Julius Fazekas N2WN Tennessee Contest Group http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html Tennessee QSO Party http://www.tnqp.org/ Elecraft K2/100 #4455 Elecraft K3/100 #366 -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Explanation-why-Thailand-bans-hf-transceivers-with-6-m-capability%3A-military-use-of-6-m-tp2588778p2598746.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] My K3's hissy and noisy audio
On the other hand, plug a Heil ProSet with its 200 Ohm elements into an unmodified K3 and the -3dB point is 80 Hz ... low enough for communications use without being overly sensitive to hum and other low frequency noise... That would be a good choice for the stock K3. One thing to note is that most coil-based headphones and speaker elements do not have a flat impedance curve as a function of frequency. Some can vary considerably from their rated impedance rating. The Z at 50 Hz can be vastly different than at 5 kHz. Also, moving the C9 C13 headphone coupling capacitors up in value will allow for grabbing most any headphones.without worry as to how response will be affected. I used an old set of Koss Pro4/AA for testing but use Sennheiser PCX300 or Bose Triports headphones when operating my K3. Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: J and -31 mix toroids
Julius wrote: Jim, ask for a quote from whom? WX0B or Fair-Rite? Perhaps http://www.arraysolutions.com/ [http://www.arraysolutions.com/] ? 73, Svend OZ7UV TDC Bredbånd for 0 kr. - Spar 695 kr. Se http://tdc.dk/freemailtilbud/ Denne mail er sendt via Mail på TDC Online - Læs mere om TDC's mailtjeneste på http://mail.tdconline.dk/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] My K3's hissy and noisy audio
The K3 apparently has the same sort of energy on its audio output, but because it is so many dB down, when the news broke it was dismissed as a non-issue. There are several issues here that cloud the discussion. The K3 uses different audio amplifiers for the speakers and headphones. One person may be talking about headphone audio while another talking about the speaker audio. Even when discussing only headphone audio there are very significant differences depending on the impedance of the headphone elements due to the high pass characteristics of the 10 uF coupling capacitors - as documented by W9AC - as well as differences in the noise and distortion in the the headphone amplifier depending on load impedance. In addition, the response and efficiency of the headphones as well as the hearing of the individual all play a role. Once speakers are added to the discussion it brings a whole new group of concerns ... including a different amplifier and a wide variety of speakers and enclosures. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of VR2BrettGraham Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 3:03 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] My K3's hissy and noisy audio This discussion reminds me of how fatiguing I found the TS-950S to use. I could not do a contest without getting a splitting headache. The K2 helped me figure out why, one day after yet again mucking about with BFO settings dealing with lumpy/bumpy filter passband impossible quest to reasonably balance sound with high low-side BFO injection, I inadvertently put an audio spectrum analyzer on the 950's output. Now this is from sample of quantity one, but that 950 had energy in its audio output well above bandwidth of interest. The K2 did not, nor did an IC-765 I was also using at the time. Only the 950 was literally painful to use after as short a time as a few hours. The K3 apparently has the same sort of energy on its audio output, but because it is so many dB down, when the news broke it was dismissed as a non-issue. Some folks have better hearing than others. Reproduction of the sound can also vary due to differences in speakers headphones. All the variables could add together enough to reach the point where the effect is noticeable; they just as easily combine to something less. I hope Elecraft looks at issues like this more objectively than its user community appears to sometimes. And cheers to those who will say what some don't want to hear, is the only way things can get sorted out. 73, ex-VR2BG/p. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: J and -31 mix toroids
Hi Svend,
They don't list them, and I suspect the ones they purchased are for their
Balun/Unun products. I'm going to contact Fair Rite directly...
Julius Fazekas
N2WN
Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html
Tennessee QSO Party: Sunday, 6 Sept 2009
http://www.tnqp.org/
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
--- On Tue, 4/7/09, Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk wrote:
From: Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: J and -31 mix toroids
To: Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 9:24 AM
#yiv926258770 pre {
white-space:pre-wrap;word-wrap:break-word;}
Julius wrote:
Jim, ask for a quote from
whom? WX0B or Fair-Rite?
Perhaps http://www.arraysolutions.com/ ?
73, Svend OZ7UV
TDC Bredbånd for 0 kr.
- Spar 695 kr. Se http://tdc.dk/freemailtilbud/
Denne mail er sendt via Mail på TDC Online
- Læs mere om TDC's mailtjeneste på
http://mail.tdconline.dk/
__
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Re: [Elecraft] Mods/Addition suggestions for order of installplease
...how many times do you want to strip down the rig with the risk that implies to fastener failure, static damage, scratches etc? 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 However, the K3 was designed to be worked on easily! My K3 has been apart many, many times, sometimes all the way down to the RF board. The number assembly/disassembly cycles is easily approaching 100 times over the past two years. I've had no fastener failures, no connector problems, no ESD failures, no scratched panels, no issues of any sort.* Wayne specifically ordered the build sequence to provide for one-at-a-time option installations for exactly the reason Fred mentions. The kit assembly manual does include preparing the K3 for adding several options to minimize the work needed later. For example, if you're building it with the 100 watt KPA3 option, you put in the rear (KPA3) shield during initial assembly. If you're building it and installing the subreceiver (KRX3) option, you install the auxiliary DSP board in the front panel assembly during initial assembly. There are other examples of such preparatory work, all covered in the kit assembly manual, as specifically ordered by Wayne to avoid complicating troubleshooting should there be a problem at some point while still minimizing the amount of work needed to add each option. Ron AC7AC * Monitoring this and the K3 support reflector, the only issue I've seen brought up by builders is when some over tighten screws or use the wrong size/type screwdriver, causing their drivers to cam out, sometimes putting small scratches on the screw head. That's avoided by tightening the screws as described in the assembly manual and being sure you use a screwdriver that fits the screw snugly. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: J and -31 mix toroids
Fair-Rite has a quite high minimum order value, several hundred dollars as I
recall. OTOH Mouser stocks most of the 31 material you would likely find
useful including the 2.4 inch toroids and the monster snap-on. The Fair-Rite
web site has all the technical info you will need to cross-reference to the
correct part on Mouser.
Chuck, AE4CW
Hi Svend,
They don't list them, and I suspect the ones they purchased are for their
Balun/Unun products. I'm going to contact Fair Rite directly...
Julius Fazekas
N2WN
Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html
Tennessee QSO Party: Sunday, 6 Sept 2009
http://www.tnqp.org/
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
--- On Tue, 4/7/09, Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk wrote:
From: Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: J and -31 mix toroids
To: Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 9:24 AM
#yiv926258770 pre {
white-space:pre-wrap;word-wrap:break-word;}
Julius wrote:
Jim, ask for a quote from
whom? WX0B or Fair-Rite?
Perhaps http://www.arraysolutions.com/ ?
73, Svend OZ7UV
TDC Bredbånd for 0 kr.
- Spar 695 kr. Se http://tdc.dk/freemailtilbud/
Denne mail er sendt via Mail på TDC Online
- Læs mere om TDC's mailtjeneste på
http://mail.tdconline.dk/
__
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http://n2.nabble.com/OT%3A-J-and--31-mix-toroids-tp2593939p2599394.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Error message
Jim: As always, probably to look in your MANUAL! It's on page 67 of my (rev. D) Manual. In the Error Message list. 73, Tom N0SS At 15:56 04/06/2009, you wrote: Whenever I turn on my K3 I see ERR PL2 go across the screen then everything else seems to come up fine. What is this error message? Jim, W4TE K3 #353 ++ James R. Kauten, MD kau...@atnex.net ++ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Mods/Addition suggestions for order of installplease
I'm with Ron on this, although I did a set of 8 mods all at one sitting. K3 #24 started life as a K3/10 kit and over time I've nickel-and-dime loaded it up almost to maxed out configuration. It's been apart almost as much time as it's been sitting in the shack running. But probably no one beats Ron's 100-cycle record... The hardware (ELX) is very robust and overdesigned; same with the ME hardware - panels, screws, etc. You won't gork anything up by disassembling the K3 if you do it corectly - no matter how many times you open 'er up. Disassembly and reassembly actually gets easier over time. This is true both subjectively and objectively. Just be sure you have the proper tools and follow the take-apart and put-together instructions. The idea someone had about doing only one mod at a time is a good one because it lets you check the results before moving on to the next mod. However, I'm not that patient... :) 73, matt W6NIA K3 #24 K2 #2810 On Tue, 07 Apr 2009 07:41:42 -0700, you wrote: ...how many times do you want to strip down the rig with the risk that implies to fastener failure, static damage, scratches etc? 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 However, the K3 was designed to be worked on easily! My K3 has been apart many, many times, sometimes all the way down to the RF board. The number assembly/disassembly cycles is easily approaching 100 times over the past two years. I've had no fastener failures, no connector problems, no ESD failures, no scratched panels, no issues of any sort.* Wayne specifically ordered the build sequence to provide for one-at-a-time option installations for exactly the reason Fred mentions. The kit assembly manual does include preparing the K3 for adding several options to minimize the work needed later. For example, if you're building it with the 100 watt KPA3 option, you put in the rear (KPA3) shield during initial assembly. If you're building it and installing the subreceiver (KRX3) option, you install the auxiliary DSP board in the front panel assembly during initial assembly. There are other examples of such preparatory work, all covered in the kit assembly manual, as specifically ordered by Wayne to avoid complicating troubleshooting should there be a problem at some point while still minimizing the amount of work needed to add each option. Ron AC7AC * Monitoring this and the K3 support reflector, the only issue I've seen brought up by builders is when some over tighten screws or use the wrong size/type screwdriver, causing their drivers to cam out, sometimes putting small scratches on the screw head. That's avoided by tightening the screws as described in the assembly manual and being sure you use a screwdriver that fits the screw snugly. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Mods/Addition suggestions for order of installplease
Well, I think I was going to do all mine in one go because Matt had said he did them all. But my original thought was to do one at a time to be sure each was working. So I'll go back to the 1 piece at a time.. didn't Johnny Cash write a song about that? :-) -- I am told I talk in shorthand and then smudge it. - J.R.R. Tolkien (1892 - 1973) On 7 Apr 2009, at 15:55, Matt Zilmer wrote: I'm with Ron on this, although I did a set of 8 mods all at one sitting. K3 #24 started life as a K3/10 kit and over time I've nickel-and-dime loaded it up almost to maxed out configuration. It's been apart almost as much time as it's been sitting in the shack running. But probably no one beats Ron's 100-cycle record... The hardware (ELX) is very robust and overdesigned; same with the ME hardware - panels, screws, etc. You won't gork anything up by disassembling the K3 if you do it corectly - no matter how many times you open 'er up. Disassembly and reassembly actually gets easier over time. This is true both subjectively and objectively. Just be sure you have the proper tools and follow the take-apart and put-together instructions. The idea someone had about doing only one mod at a time is a good one because it lets you check the results before moving on to the next mod. However, I'm not that patient... :) 73, matt W6NIA K3 #24 K2 #2810 On Tue, 07 Apr 2009 07:41:42 -0700, you wrote: ...how many times do you want to strip down the rig with the risk that implies to fastener failure, static damage, scratches etc? 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 However, the K3 was designed to be worked on easily! My K3 has been apart many, many times, sometimes all the way down to the RF board. The number assembly/disassembly cycles is easily approaching 100 times over the past two years. I've had no fastener failures, no connector problems, no ESD failures, no scratched panels, no issues of any sort.* Wayne specifically ordered the build sequence to provide for one-at- a-time option installations for exactly the reason Fred mentions. The kit assembly manual does include preparing the K3 for adding several options to minimize the work needed later. For example, if you're building it with the 100 watt KPA3 option, you put in the rear (KPA3) shield during initial assembly. If you're building it and installing the subreceiver (KRX3) option, you install the auxiliary DSP board in the front panel assembly during initial assembly. There are other examples of such preparatory work, all covered in the kit assembly manual, as specifically ordered by Wayne to avoid complicating troubleshooting should there be a problem at some point while still minimizing the amount of work needed to add each option. Ron AC7AC * Monitoring this and the K3 support reflector, the only issue I've seen brought up by builders is when some over tighten screws or use the wrong size/type screwdriver, causing their drivers to cam out, sometimes putting small scratches on the screw head. That's avoided by tightening the screws as described in the assembly manual and being sure you use a screwdriver that fits the screw snugly. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: Mic gain and ALC question
Hello group, Working phone on 40m tonight, and noticed that I could only set mic gain to 3 before ALC maxed out on the K3's meter. Is this normal? I'm using the stock Elecraft hand mic. 73, James K3JPS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: Mic gain and ALC question
Hello group, Working phone on 40m tonight, and noticed that I could only set mic gain to 3 before ALC maxed out on the K3’s meter. Is this normal? I’m using the stock Elecraft hand mic. 73, James K3JPS -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3%3A-Mic-gain-and-ALC-question-tp2587130p2587130.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Mods/Addition suggestions for order of installplease
Hi, I will throw my 2 pennies into this. The decision whether to do all-at-once or one-at-a-time should depend a lot on your confidence level and your individual skills. Ask yourself: If something goes wrong, what is my ability to find and correct it? If that ability is not high on your list of skills, do things one at a time so any resulting problems can be isolated to the area you last modified, and even if you must ask for help, those whom you ask can be of greater assistance if you have only done one of the mods at a time. As for the durability of the hardware, stripping out screwheads, etc., I can only say that one should use *good* tools. If your screwdriver does not grip the screwheads tightly, stop and purchase a new #1 phillips screwdriver of good quality - do not scrimp on the tool quality if you value your K3's appearance. Work carefully and place the panels on a soft surface out of your immediate work area so they are not accidentally bumped or pushed around while you are working. A little common sense here will go a long way. Using careful workmanship, the K3 can be assembled and disassembled many many times and still look like new, but if sloppy methods are used, it can be damaged the first time through. 73, Don W3FPR Matt Zilmer wrote: I'm with Ron on this, although I did a set of 8 mods all at one sitting. K3 #24 started life as a K3/10 kit and over time I've nickel-and-dime loaded it up almost to maxed out configuration. It's been apart almost as much time as it's been sitting in the shack running. But probably no one beats Ron's 100-cycle record... The hardware (ELX) is very robust and overdesigned; same with the ME hardware - panels, screws, etc. You won't gork anything up by disassembling the K3 if you do it corectly - no matter how many times you open 'er up. Disassembly and reassembly actually gets easier over time. This is true both subjectively and objectively. Just be sure you have the proper tools and follow the take-apart and put-together instructions. The idea someone had about doing only one mod at a time is a good one because it lets you check the results before moving on to the next mod. However, I'm not that patient... :) 73, matt W6NIA K3 #24 K2 #2810 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio
Jack, That may be the reason I do not hear any problem. My hearing aids do not have much response above 3.5 kHz. If I do not use the aids, my hearing drops off significantly above 1800 Hz although my low end hearing is about normal for the general population. Having 'built-in' low pass filters is OK at times, but makes it difficult to understand normal speech (particularly female and children's voices). I bow to those with better high end hearing than mine, but to me the K3 has no audio problems. Therefore I will make no further comments on this subject. 73, Don W3FPR Jack Smith wrote: There is a 3.9 KHz digitization artifact about 78 dB down from normal audio level. Is this what you hear? It's quite visible in a spectrum analyzer view of the K3's audio output. http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/elecraft_k3_receive_audio.htm - about half way down the page under Headphone Port SSB Mode with 500 Hz Tone - Harmonics Jack K8ZOA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Mods/Addition suggestions for order of installplease
That was about a Cadillac I think. You'll know it when you see it. :) I had a reasonable familiarity with the K3 before surgery. This helps a lot. All mods were a-ok and checked out, but this approach isn't for everyone. It was a long session to do that all at one pull. This is one of those ymmv thingies. 73, matt On Tue, 07 Apr 2009 16:08:38 +0100, you wrote: Well, I think I was going to do all mine in one go because Matt had said he did them all. But my original thought was to do one at a time to be sure each was working. So I'll go back to the 1 piece at a time.. didn't Johnny Cash write a song about that? :-) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio
I've stayed out of this thread and have only skimmed it but I'll weigh in a bit now. I have very good hearing. I listen to my K3 using high fidelity headphones only - I never use the speaker. I operate CW only. My rig sounds very good. I do have the Radio Shack level control in-line with my Sony headphones (which are very sensitive) and if I run the volume all the way up on the in-line level control, I get hiss from the rig, but it has nothing to do with the K3. Every device I listen to with my Sony phones the level control wide open (mixing boards, MP3 players, computers, stereo systems) produces hiss, and they all require AF gain be kept very low. Basically, since the phones are so sensitive, I'm listening to the inherent noise floor. The solution is simple. Throttle back the in-line volume control and the hiss goes away. Turn up the AF gain (to a normal level) and you get plenty of signal. Great sound, no hiss - That's my K3. - Keith N1AS - - K3 711 - -Original Message- My hearing aids do not have much response above 3.5 kHz. If I do not use the aids, my hearing drops off significantly above 1800 Hz although my low end hearing is about normal for the general population. I bow to those with better high end hearing than mine, but to me the K3 has no audio problems. Therefore I will make no further comments on this subject. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 audio
Folks . . . The only way to determine whether the so-called hiss or other aberrations are endemic to the K3 is to limit the discussion to one common denominator, that being the stock K3 speaker which EVERYONE has, and not the plethora of speakers and headphones everyone tries to have. The K3 speaker may have its own limitations, but at least the conversation, subjective as it already is, wouldn't labor under a bunch of variables. 73, K9ZTV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: J and -31 mix toroids
Hi Chuck,
It really helps if one knows the proper name for an item. In this case, toroid
ain't it ;o) It's considered a bead. Not sure what the difference is, other
than maybe thickness?
The part in question is stocked by Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=P8bU7i9nNAWMk1EJQzshLg%3D%3D
It's reasonably priced too.
Fair Rite was helpful on the phone too.
Array Solutions also stocks the part.
Thanks for all the help and the space. I see it's a pretty common question once
I found the part number...
Happy building all!
Julius
Fair-Rite has a quite high minimum order value, several hundred dollars as I
recall. OTOH Mouser stocks most of the 31 material you would likely find
useful including the 2.4 inch toroids and the monster snap-on. The Fair-Rite
web site has all the technical info you will need to cross-reference to the
correct part on Mouser.
Chuck, AE4CW
Hi Svend,
They don't list them, and I suspect the ones they purchased are for their
Balun/Unun products. I'm going to contact Fair Rite directly...
Julius Fazekas
N2WN
Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html
Tennessee QSO Party: Sunday, 6 Sept 2009
http://www.tnqp.org/
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
--- On Tue, 4/7/09, Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk wrote:
From: Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: J and -31 mix toroids
To: Julius Fazekas n2wn phriend...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 9:24 AM
#yiv926258770 pre {
white-space:pre-wrap;word-wrap:break-word;}
Julius wrote:
Jim, ask for a quote from
whom? WX0B or Fair-Rite?
Perhaps http://www.arraysolutions.com/ ?
73, Svend OZ7UV
TDC Bredbånd for 0 kr.
- Spar 695 kr. Se http://tdc.dk/freemailtilbud/
Denne mail er sendt via Mail på TDC Online
- Læs mere om TDC's mailtjeneste på
http://mail.tdconline.dk/
__
Elecraft mailing list
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-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN
Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html
Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/
Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
--
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/OT%3A-J-and--31-mix-toroids-tp2593939p2599900.html
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[Elecraft] K3 Error message
As always I'm in flabbergasted about how much useless stuff goes around this user group. Like 150 posts on an LED for the K3 or what headphones someone should use (subject BEATEN to DEATH) or what antenna to use (useful, but gets old after 400 posts) But when it comes to someone with a genuine problem that needs real help, everyone refers Jim to the Manual, well, those two that actually answered him in the group anyway. I've seen this in many of the other reflectors as well. I would like to think that this group doesn't have the attitude of read the manual when people in the group have a serious question. Sure, it's not something that we can ramble on uselessly about for days on end, but it sure would help Jim to get on the air... I've already e-mailed Jim (off the group) with 5 main reasons why this error is happening, and one that I think is going to be the case. For those of you who may be interested to know as well, He most likely didn't put the split lock washer behind his TCXO board and has cracked the SMD resistor located next to the hole. This causes the output signal going to the TMP cable on Synth #2 not to work. Hopefully when someone else needs a little technical help his answer wont be skipped over by all the other almost useless posts. (like this one) Michael N6MQL 36. Re: K3 Error message (Tom Hammond) Message: 36 Date: Tue, 07 Apr 2009 08:55:34 -0500 From: Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Error message To: James R. Kauten, MD kau...@atnex.net,elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: 5a.32.14772.a196b...@smtp02.embarq.synacor.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Jim: As always, probably to look in your MANUAL! It's on page 67 of my (rev. D) Manual. In the Error Message list. 73, Tom N0SS At 15:56 04/06/2009, you wrote: Whenever I turn on my K3 I see ERR PL2 go across the screen then everything else seems to come up fine. What is this error message? Jim, W4TE K3 #353 ++ James R. Kauten, MD kau...@atnex.net ++ _ Rediscover Hotmail®: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Storage1_042009 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] PSK 31
Ron, Serial connection is used for K3 control. You should connect the LINE-OUT at the rear of the K3 to the Line or Mic inp of your Sound Card (internal or external); this is the audio path for receiving PSK31; you should connect the Line-out or Spkr out of the the above sound card to the IN-LINE connector at the rear of the K3; this is the path for audio when you transmit PSK31; i've not my K3 User Manual by me, but you can find how to select the correct mode for the K3's IN-LINE-OUT connector usage. You should also adjust the RX/TX audio levels and find the best compromise between K3 and Sound Card levels settings. As you have worked before with PSK31, i'm sure you will be able to find the best settings with the K3. 73 QRO de Rudolf, HB9ARI Ron Midwin wrote: Thanks, Rudolf, Your response tells me exactly what I was looking to hear. Question: do I have to add cables from my computer to the K-3, of is the USB - Serial Adapter I use sufficient? Best 73, Ron AE6RH Ron Midwin Midwin Olifson, Inc. 2001 S. Barrington Ave. #120 Los Angeles, CA 90025 310-880-0699 (Cell) mid...@mo-rep.com -Original Message- From: hb9ari [mailto:hb9...@bluewin.ch] Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 10:24 PM To: Ron Midwin Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK 31 Ron, For PSK31 i use Digipan since many years and HRD since ~ 1 year; if you want to have a waterfall display, i think that external software, PC and sound card are a necessity. I've just tried to work PSK31 with my K3 (#1212), no problem with RX, but i find that transmitting is less easy, it's my point of vue, than using Digipan (for example); i find it easy to use and we have also a panoramic sight of in filter band adjacent stations. I also appreciate the Tune mode of Digipan; after one year of HRD use, i don't find the equivalent function... 73 QRO de Rudolf, HB9ARI PS No relation with Digipan writer(s), just a very satisfied user! Ron Midwin wrote: Gentlemen: I've been playing around with PSK-31 and can sort of get it working, using the K-3 and the Elecraft software. I am able to send by typing text into the software, and someone on the same frequency can hear and copy me. I was having difficulty copying him, even thought I was hear his warble. I also have a copy of HRD, which is quite complicated to use, so I've put that off, even though I hear great things about it. My question is, does anyone have an application note; PSK-31 on a K-3 for dummies, that would give me a simple way to play with it? I've used PSK-31 before on a previous 746 Pro and a Tigertronics USB box, and it worked fine. I was able to see the waterfall on my computer screen and could select a signal by clicking on the signal on the display. Not sure if I can still do this using elecraft software? I have my K-3 connected to my laptop computer with a USB-serial adapter, which works fine. Do I need to use the sound card in my laptop too? Thanks, Ron AE6RH S/N 1997 Ron Midwin __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.45/2045 - Release Date: 04/07/09 06:41:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] PR6 preamp fails to turn on reliably
Lance I almost always use an external 2nd receiver via the KXV3 RX RF in/out route that a pre-amp uses (via a ferrite splitter), mine is used on the lower HF bands but the principle is the same. I don't have any switching issues with the K3 and that external receive signal route. I do have an Advanced Receiver Research P50VDG 6m pre-amp but only operate 6m during the summer months portable. Do you think the problem is the PR6, or the K3? 73 Dave, G4AON K3/100 #80 I just returned from using my K3 for 6m EME down in E51 (you can see more information about the trip at http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj/E51SIX.htm ). My question is that often the PR6 would not seem to engage at the beginning of an operating session. I could press the RX button and hear the relays click, but the S meter and noise would not increase. Fortunately, I was always able to get the preamp to finally kick in before my moon came up, but it required the K3 to be on for awhile and for me to press the RX button multiple times to turn the preamp on and off. I was using switching power supplies, so I don't think there should have been any problem with the actual DC voltages (although I did not confirm that there was actually 13.5 VDC coming to the K3). Does anybody have any ideas as to what the problem may have been, or how I can prevent this problem in the future? Like I said, the K3 and PR6 performed well for me on this trip, but I am a little worried about its performance on future trips if the PR6 fails to turn on! MNI TNX and VY 73, Lance __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 excessive bass
Thanks Paul, That makes a lot of sense and like I said I am not complaining one bit on the K3 audio. I main point I was trying to make was the K3 doesn't have excessive bass in stock form or from what I have seen in any form. I will send you my plots later, I have a QRP meeting tonight to get ready for. However I still don't see much difference on bands 2 on any output, but I will experiment more tonight. To be honest I don't use the EQ at all, my K3 stays on digital most of the time! The problem is one guy will add a comment to this thread, then a guy like me will comment on that and now it is getting away from the original subject line. So I am changing this now and will be my last post on this subject unless someone would like me to run a test, etc. Just commenting on what I see, hear, and can measure. 73 de jay/w5jay.. 1 and 2. On the line output I see a little less bass than the other outputs and I would expect this since it has a transformer in line that the speaker and phone output doesn't. In fact I don't see a change if I go crazy boosting RX RQ bands 1 and 2. Jay, Here are my SpectraPlus FFT plots for the IC-7800 (Magenta), IC-7700 (Blue), Ten Tec Omni VII (Red), and Elecraft K3 (Yellow). Each plot was taken from the respective headphone output and the volume level adjusted in order to show an uncluttered overlay. http://216.229.20.37/images/ResponsePlots.JPG To achieve a reasonably flat low-end response on the K3 requires an FC shift to about 1.25 from 1.50. But in doing so, note how the high end response is now limited to about 3.2 kHz (See yellow trace). Not surprising, the IC-7700 and IC-7800 traces can be laid on top of each with a nearly identical response. Both produce a response bump between 100 Hz - 300 Hz. The Ten Tec Omni VII produces the best overall Rx response of the four rigs tested. I wish I still had the TS-870 for these tests as it measured ruler-flat out of the box from 30 Hz to 6 kHz. Regarding the K3's Rx EQ, I see substantial Rx EQ changes on bands 2-8 when adjustments are made, but no change on band 1 when adjusted from one extreme to the other. It simply has no effect. I've tried various alternate settings to see if I could engage band 1 to move, but so far, no luck. It doesn't bother me as I leave the EQ flat. Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] PR6 preamp fails to turn on reliably
I just returned from using my K3 for 6m EME down in E51 (you can see more information about the trip at http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj/E51SIX.htm ). My question is that often the PR6 would not seem to engage at the beginning of an operating session. I could press the RX button and hear the relays click, but the S meter and noise would not increase. Fortunately, I was always able to get the preamp to finally kick in before my moon came up, but it required the K3 to be on for awhile and for me to press the RX button multiple times to turn the preamp on and off. I was using switching power supplies, so I don't think there should have been any problem with the actual DC voltages (although I did not confirm that there was actually 13.5 VDC coming to the K3). Does anybody have any ideas as to what the problem may have been, or how I can prevent this problem in the future? Like I said, the K3 and PR6 performed well for me on this trip, but I am a little worried about its performance on future trips if the PR6 fails to turn on! MNI TNX and VY 73, Lance -- Lance Collister, W7GJ (ex: WN3GPL, WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8) P.O. Box 73 Frenchtown, MT 59834 USA QTH: DN27UB TEL: (406) 626-5728 URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj 2m DXCC #11, 6m DXCC #815 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Error message
Michael . . . Your dissertation and chastisement not withstanding (I agree about the multitude of useless posts), the question was simply what is this error message. The answer which Tom and others gave was likewise simply, it's on page 67 of the manual. An entirely appropriate answer to an entirely appropriate question. The truth is, however, many people today want others to do their research. Why look at a manual yourself (and possibly learn something) if you can go online and get the answer from others who /have /looked at the manual (and thereby /not /have to learn something). Sadly, many amateurs are just such people. It is the modern equivalent of Lincoln's phrase, You work and toil and earn bread, and I'll eat it. The original poster may have wondered what was causing his error message, but that wasn't his question. 73, Kent K9ZTV The Smiths wrote: As always I'm in flabbergasted about how much useless stuff goes around this user group. Like 150 posts on an LED for the K3 or what headphones someone should use (subject BEATEN to DEATH) or what antenna to use (useful, but gets old after 400 posts) But when it comes to someone with a genuine problem that needs real help, everyone refers Jim to the Manual, well, those two that actually answered him in the group anyway. I've seen this in many of the other reflectors as well. I would like to think that this group doesn't have the attitude of read the manual when people in the group have a serious question. Sure, it's not something that we can ramble on uselessly about for days on end, but it sure would help Jim to get on the air... I've already e-mailed Jim (off the group) with 5 main reasons why this error is happening, and one that I think is going to be the case. For those of you who may be interested to know as well, He most likely didn't put the split lock washer behind his TCXO board and has cracked the SMD resistor located next to the hole. This causes the output signal going to the TMP cable on Synth #2 not to work. Hopefully when someone else needs a little technical help his answer wont be skipped over by all the other almost useless posts. (like this one) Michael N6MQL Jim: As always, probably best to look in your MANUAL! It's on page 67 of my (rev. D) Manual. In the Error Message list. 73, Tom N0SS Whenever I turn on my K3 I see ERR PL2 go across the screen then everything else seems to come up fine. What is this error message? Jim, W4TE K3 #353 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2: Sound when switching off k2 after installing KIO2
I installed a KIO in my new k2. All works well, all tests with the KIO installed passed without any problem. But: everytime when switching off the K2 i hear a short sound (sounds like tscherp) in the speaker. With KIO removed, there is only a short klick at power down. Is there a problem or is this sound created from the KIO and normal behavior? Michael, DC0ZO K2#6614, K3#1999 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: N1MM beginner question
Configuration: Computer serial port connected to K3, computer USB connected to Winkeyer, Winkeyer Key output connected to K3 Key In, No connection to K3 PTT in, CONFIG PTT-KEY OFF-OFF, QSK full, nothing connected to K3 ACC. Send CW message from N1MM: I want QSK but the TX LED stays on during the message. Something is asserting PTT during the message, and the only source of this I can think of would be a software command from N1MM to the K3. I have looked for a way to turn this off in N1MM, but haven't found one. Please help. For other modes I probably want a connection to the K3 PTT input, I just don't want it to be activated in CW. BTW I tried to post on the Yahoo N1MM group, but the server was unavilable. Thanks and 73, Erik K7TV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: Sound when switching off k2 after installing KIO2
At 03:07 PM 07/04/09, you wrote: I installed a KIO in my new k2. All works well, all tests with the KIO installed passed without any problem. But: everytime when switching off the K2 i hear a short sound (sounds like tscherp) in the speaker. With KIO removed, there is only a short klick at power down. Is there a problem or is this sound created from the KIO and normal behavior? Michael, DC0ZO K2#6614, K3#1999 Hi Michael, I have KIO2 in each of my K2's and they make a noise when powered off also. It is more than just a click. I've had them for 8 years, no problems with them yet. Not to worry. John k7up __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: N1MM beginner question
n1mm/config/ports/on K3 control com press set button/ uncheck radio PTT via command. Dave Hachadorian, K6LL Yuma, AZ - Original Message - From: Erik N Basilier ebasil...@cox.net To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 9:37 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K3: N1MM beginner question Configuration: Computer serial port connected to K3, computer USB connected to Winkeyer, Winkeyer Key output connected to K3 Key In, No connection to K3 PTT in, CONFIG PTT-KEY OFF-OFF, QSK full, nothing connected to K3 ACC. Send CW message from N1MM: I want QSK but the TX LED stays on during the message. Something is asserting PTT during the message, and the only source of this I can think of would be a software command from N1MM to the K3. I have looked for a way to turn this off in N1MM, but haven't found one. Please help. For other modes I probably want a connection to the K3 PTT input, I just don't want it to be activated in CW. BTW I tried to post on the Yahoo N1MM group, but the server was unavilable. Thanks and 73, Erik K7TV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input
I spent the morning installing a sub rx in my K3 #1516. All is working well. I set it up using the KAT3 ant2 as input the the sub rx. Now I'm thinking that there is no advantage to doing it this way(other then me being too lazy to install the aux bnc connector). Does it really matter, is there any advantage to using the bnc as an rx only input? I have a four way antenna switch downstream from the K3 so there is no advantage to the ant2 not being used by the main receiver as all antennas come in through ant1. The ant2 input would go unused otherwise. Is the bnc rx input better, is it worth taking my K3 apart to install the BNC rx connector ? All 150 to 400 answers welcome... 73 Jeff kb2m __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input
The setup I use with an array solutions six pack remote switch is to have ANT1 and ANT2 both going to the six pack. This way I can mix and match any of my available antennas to optimize diversity receive. 73 Greg AB7R On Apr 7, 2009, at 3:44 PM, jeff kb2m wrote: I spent the morning installing a sub rx in my K3 #1516. All is working well. I set it up using the KAT3 ant2 as input the the sub rx. Now I'm thinking that there is no advantage to doing it this way(other then me being too lazy to install the aux bnc connector). Does it really matter, is there any advantage to using the bnc as an rx only input? I have a four way antenna switch downstream from the K3 so there is no advantage to the ant2 not being used by the main receiver as all antennas come in through ant1. The ant2 input would go unused otherwise. Is the bnc rx input better, is it worth taking my K3 apart to install the BNC rx connector ? All 150 to 400 answers welcome... 73 Jeff kb2m __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input
Hi Jeff: One possible problem is that if you were to accidentally press the ANT button you would transmit into your receive antenna. 73, Mike K2MK jeff kb2m Tue, 07 Apr 2009 15:44:36 -0700 I spent the morning installing a sub rx in my K3 #1516. All is working well. I set it up using the KAT3 ant2 as input the the sub rx. Now I'm thinking that there is no advantage to doing it this way(other then me being too lazy to install the aux bnc connector). Does it really matter, is there any advantage to using the bnc as an rx only input? I have a four way antenna switch downstream from the K3 so there is no advantage to the ant2 not being used by the main receiver as all antennas come in through ant1. The ant2 input would go unused otherwise. Is the bnc rx input better, is it worth taking my K3 apart to install the BNC rx connector ? All 150 to 400 answers welcome... 73 Jeff kb2m __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input
There's one ... at least ... condition where the BNC input jack and cable is useful. I bought the 2nd RX -only- to monitor 6M for band activity while I'm using the radio on other bands. The BNC allows me to connect a 6M GP to the 2nd RX. My ANT 2 connector is connected to the 6M beam. A tip: The cable from the BNC is -much- easier to plug into the 2nd RX by removing the KIO3 panel and the boards behind it than removing or even partially lifting the 2nd RX to connect the cable to the input. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input
There are couple of points to keep in mind if you don't use the AUX input and use ANT1/ANT2 for both sub receiver and main tx/rx. They're covered in the KRX3 manual, but in case you missed them: 1) You'll need well-isolated antennas to avoid RF tripping the COR in the antenna input used by the sub receiver. 2) If you try to listen on a higher-frequency band on the subreceiver than you're using for the main, you may notice significant signal attenuation in the sub receiver. That's because when using ANT1/ANT2 you're sharing the main band pass filters and they have significant attenuation on the bands above the one selected. Both issues are avoided by using the AUX input instead. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of jeff kb2m Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 3:44 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input I spent the morning installing a sub rx in my K3 #1516. All is working well. I set it up using the KAT3 ant2 as input the the sub rx. Now I'm thinking that there is no advantage to doing it this way(other then me being too lazy to install the aux bnc connector). Does it really matter, is there any advantage to using the bnc as an rx only input? I have a four way antenna switch downstream from the K3 so there is no advantage to the ant2 not being used by the main receiver as all antennas come in through ant1. The ant2 input would go unused otherwise. Is the bnc rx input better, is it worth taking my K3 apart to install the BNC rx connector ? All 150 to 400 answers welcome... 73 Jeff kb2m __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input
Thanks for bringing up the attenuation issue with using ant1/ant2. Has anyone tried it both ways and have any comments? 73 Jeff kb2m - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz To: 'jeff kb2m' k...@comcast.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 7:41 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input There are couple of points to keep in mind if you don't use the AUX input and use ANT1/ANT2 for both sub receiver and main tx/rx. They're covered in the KRX3 manual, but in case you missed them: 1) You'll need well-isolated antennas to avoid RF tripping the COR in the antenna input used by the sub receiver. 2) If you try to listen on a higher-frequency band on the subreceiver than you're using for the main, you may notice significant signal attenuation in the sub receiver. That's because when using ANT1/ANT2 you're sharing the main band pass filters and they have significant attenuation on the bands above the one selected. Both issues are avoided by using the AUX input instead. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of jeff kb2m Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 3:44 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input I spent the morning installing a sub rx in my K3 #1516. All is working well. I set it up using the KAT3 ant2 as input the the sub rx. Now I'm thinking that there is no advantage to doing it this way(other then me being too lazy to install the aux bnc connector). Does it really matter, is there any advantage to using the bnc as an rx only input? I have a four way antenna switch downstream from the K3 so there is no advantage to the ant2 not being used by the main receiver as all antennas come in through ant1. The ant2 input would go unused otherwise. Is the bnc rx input better, is it worth taking my K3 apart to install the BNC rx connector ? All 150 to 400 answers welcome... 73 Jeff kb2m __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Inductive relay kick
1N4007 diodes have a notoriously long switchover time. That's what makes them useful as a poor-man's PIN diode. They aren't quite so useful in back EMF suppression, though. If you use a fast diode, you should be able to keep the back EMF voltage down to the forward-bias voltage of the diode. On Apr 4, 2009, at 9:52 PM, Carl, WCØV wrote: - Original Message - From: Carl, WCØV wc0...@embarqmail.com To: k...@att.net Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:50 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inductive relay kick Good point. The diode will conduct the back EMF minus internal voltage when the supply voltage to the coil is removed. You do need a diode with a high enough PIV rating. But even Radio Shack has silicon diodes with 1000 PIV rating, 2 amps forward current rating at five for a dollar. We make electric actuators where I work, motors with internal rollerscrews and often they get equipped with electric safety brakes (apply when power is removed, release when power is applied). We normally supply 1N4007 (1000 PIV rated forward bias) diodes with brake equipped motors. 50% of those you ask would do that. The other 50% would use a very fast switching diode as you suggest. Both work just fine since the only job is to conduct the EMF coming out of the coil when the actuating voltage is removed. BUT you do need a diode with a high enough PIV rating. Some of our bigger unsuppressed motor brake coils can spit out over 600 vdc when the supply is removed. And yes some of our customers hook up the diode or the brake supply backwards and blow the diode (if they don't blow the supply first). Protection is gone, and the back EMF from the relay coil is free to blast wherever it wants to go. I am sure the Elecraft relays are way below that. My point to Don was that simply doubling the voltage rating of the coil to get the back EMF is way off. A scope will tell the real tale. BTW I got yelled at by a medical tech who pointed out that the pain (real - I tried the relay wire experiment myself) is the voltage going right across your heart. To some, 450 vdc may be a very bad day. 73, Carl WC0V - Original Message - From: Bob k...@att.net To: WCØV wc0...@embarqmail.com Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:07 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inductive relay kick Hi Carl, What am I missing here? Using a regular silicon diode that has a fast switching time, or even better a Schottky diode wouldn't they clamp at the forward bias of the junction .7 volts of less. If not how long could you expect the diode to survive that abuse of 75v across the forward biased junction. If the diode then failed open you would never know your protection was gone. 73, Bob K2TK Carl wrote: Don, seriously disagree about the magnitude of the kick. For years I taught a course on industrial installations and demo'ed the kick issue by soldering two bare wire to the coil of a small Potter and Brumfield ice cube 12 vdc relay. I would pick the biggest guy in the class to hold the wires while I touched them to a nine-volt transistor radio battery. And then watch as he would throw the relay across the room. A reverse diode would vastly reduce the effect. Well, I got yelled at and was told Hey, Stupid (and stupid wasn't the word they used)! Put that on a storage scope to see what you're messing with. The scope showed a spike of 450 vdc! The diode reduced it to less than 75 vdc. The magnitude is due mainly to the large inductance of the coil, but until some measurements are taken, some caution is advised. The inductance of any coil inside a K2 or K3 is bound to be much smaller. But the phenomenon is the same. 73, Carl WC0V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html George William Coleman mail: aa...@arrl.net Senior Software Developer phone: 770 978-0196 Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly! -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post:
Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input
I have reported to Wayne that the Pre and Att memory goes across both the receivers. I thought they were independent. He has responded that it is under investigation. Perhaps this is the issue Jeff is bringing up. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of jeff kb2m Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 7:22 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input Thanks for bringing up the attenuation issue with using ant1/ant2. Has anyone tried it both ways and have any comments? 73 Jeff kb2m - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz To: 'jeff kb2m' k...@comcast.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 7:41 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input There are couple of points to keep in mind if you don't use the AUX input and use ANT1/ANT2 for both sub receiver and main tx/rx. They're covered in the KRX3 manual, but in case you missed them: 1) You'll need well-isolated antennas to avoid RF tripping the COR in the antenna input used by the sub receiver. 2) If you try to listen on a higher-frequency band on the subreceiver than you're using for the main, you may notice significant signal attenuation in the sub receiver. That's because when using ANT1/ANT2 you're sharing the main band pass filters and they have significant attenuation on the bands above the one selected. Both issues are avoided by using the AUX input instead. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of jeff kb2m Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 3:44 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KRX3 antenna input I spent the morning installing a sub rx in my K3 #1516. All is working well. I set it up using the KAT3 ant2 as input the the sub rx. Now I'm thinking that there is no advantage to doing it this way(other then me being too lazy to install the aux bnc connector). Does it really matter, is there any advantage to using the bnc as an rx only input? I have a four way antenna switch downstream from the K3 so there is no advantage to the ant2 not being used by the main receiver as all antennas come in through ant1. The ant2 input would go unused otherwise. Is the bnc rx input better, is it worth taking my K3 apart to install the BNC rx connector ? All 150 to 400 answers welcome... 73 Jeff kb2m __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Inductive relay kick
Bill: Are you sure about this? A snubbing diode has to have fast turn on, but slower turn off is not as much of a concern. A while ago I looked at the turn on and turn off times for several diodes including the standard 1N4007 and found all sufficiently fast to work well as a relay snubbing device. Details are at http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/diode_turn-on_time.htm Jack K8ZOA www.cliftonlaboratories.com Bill Coleman wrote: 1N4007 diodes have a notoriously long switchover time. That's what makes them useful as a poor-man's PIN diode. They aren't quite so useful in back EMF suppression, though. If you use a fast diode, you should be able to keep the back EMF voltage down to the forward-bias voltage of the diode. On Apr 4, 2009, at 9:52 PM, Carl, WCØV wrote: - Original Message - From: Carl, WCØV wc0...@embarqmail.com To: k...@att.net Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:50 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inductive relay kick Good point. The diode will conduct the back EMF minus internal voltage when the supply voltage to the coil is removed. You do need a diode with a high enough PIV rating. But even Radio Shack has silicon diodes with 1000 PIV rating, 2 amps forward current rating at five for a dollar. We make electric actuators where I work, motors with internal rollerscrews and often they get equipped with electric safety brakes (apply when power is removed, release when power is applied). We normally supply 1N4007 (1000 PIV rated forward bias) diodes with brake equipped motors. 50% of those you ask would do that. The other 50% would use a very fast switching diode as you suggest. Both work just fine since the only job is to conduct the EMF coming out of the coil when the actuating voltage is removed. BUT you do need a diode with a high enough PIV rating. Some of our bigger unsuppressed motor brake coils can spit out over 600 vdc when the supply is removed. And yes some of our customers hook up the diode or the brake supply backwards and blow the diode (if they don't blow the supply first). Protection is gone, and the back EMF from the relay coil is free to blast wherever it wants to go. I am sure the Elecraft relays are way below that. My point to Don was that simply doubling the voltage rating of the coil to get the back EMF is way off. A scope will tell the real tale. BTW I got yelled at by a medical tech who pointed out that the pain (real - I tried the relay wire experiment myself) is the voltage going right across your heart. To some, 450 vdc may be a very bad day. 73, Carl WC0V - Original Message - From: Bob k...@att.net To: WCØV wc0...@embarqmail.com Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:07 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inductive relay kick Hi Carl, What am I missing here? Using a regular silicon diode that has a fast switching time, or even better a Schottky diode wouldn't they clamp at the forward bias of the junction .7 volts of less. If not how long could you expect the diode to survive that abuse of 75v across the forward biased junction. If the diode then failed open you would never know your protection was gone. 73, Bob K2TK Carl wrote: Don, seriously disagree about the magnitude of the kick. For years I taught a course on industrial installations and demo'ed the kick issue by soldering two bare wire to the coil of a small Potter and Brumfield ice cube 12 vdc relay. I would pick the biggest guy in the class to hold the wires while I touched them to a nine-volt transistor radio battery. And then watch as he would throw the relay across the room. A reverse diode would vastly reduce the effect. Well, I got yelled at and was told Hey, Stupid (and stupid wasn't the word they used)! Put that on a storage scope to see what you're messing with. The scope showed a spike of 450 vdc! The diode reduced it to less than 75 vdc. The magnitude is due mainly to the large inductance of the coil, but until some measurements are taken, some caution is advised. The inductance of any coil inside a K2 or K3 is bound to be much smaller. But the phenomenon is the same. 73, Carl WC0V __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html George William Coleman
[Elecraft] [K2] Adding a Gas Discharge Tube a Benefit?
Hi all you K2 owners; In the ongoing effort to preserve and protect our SWR and Power bridge diodes, would the installation of a gas discharge tube between the antenna connector and ground as in the K3 be of any help in this battle? Regards, Bob K7HBG __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Inductive relay kick
There is a lesson here: before making any pronouncements, check Jack's website for the test results first. --- On Tue, 4/7/09, Jack Smith jack.sm...@cliftonlaboratories.com wrote: From: Jack Smith jack.sm...@cliftonlaboratories.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fw: Inductive relay kick To: Bill Coleman aa...@arrl.net Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net, WCØV wc0...@embarqmail.com Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 7:43 PM Bill: Are you sure about this? A snubbing diode has to have fast turn on, but slower turn off is not as much of a concern. A while ago I looked at the turn on and turn off times for several diodes including the standard 1N4007 and found all sufficiently fast to work well as a relay snubbing device. Details are at http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/diode_turn-on_time.htm Jack K8ZOA www.cliftonlaboratories.com Bill Coleman wrote: 1N4007 diodes have a notoriously long switchover time. That's what makes them useful as a poor-man's PIN diode. They aren't quite so useful in back EMF suppression, though. If you use a fast diode, you should be able to keep the back EMF voltage down to the forward-bias voltage of the diode. On Apr 4, 2009, at 9:52 PM, Carl, WCØV wrote: - Original Message - From: Carl, WCØV wc0...@embarqmail.com To: k...@att.net Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:50 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inductive relay kick Good point. The diode will conduct the back EMF minus internal voltage when the supply voltage to the coil is removed. You do need a diode with a high enough PIV rating. But even Radio Shack has silicon diodes with 1000 PIV rating, 2 amps forward current rating at five for a dollar. We make electric actuators where I work, motors with internal rollerscrews and often they get equipped with electric safety brakes (apply when power is removed, release when power is applied). We normally supply 1N4007 (1000 PIV rated forward bias) diodes with brake equipped motors. 50% of those you ask would do that. The other 50% would use a very fast switching diode as you suggest. Both work just fine since the only job is to conduct the EMF coming out of the coil when the actuating voltage is removed. BUT you do need a diode with a high enough PIV rating. Some of our bigger unsuppressed motor brake coils can spit out over 600 vdc when the supply is removed. And yes some of our customers hook up the diode or the brake supply backwards and blow the diode (if they don't blow the supply first). Protection is gone, and the back EMF from the relay coil is free to blast wherever it wants to go. I am sure the Elecraft relays are way below that. My point to Don was that simply doubling the voltage rating of the coil to get the back EMF is way off. A scope will tell the real tale. BTW I got yelled at by a medical tech who pointed out that the pain (real - I tried the relay wire experiment myself) is the voltage going right across your heart. To some, 450 vdc may be a very bad day. 73, Carl WC0V - Original Message - From: Bob k...@att.net To: WCØV wc0...@embarqmail.com Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 2:07 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Inductive relay kick Hi Carl, What am I missing here? Using a regular silicon diode that has a fast switching time, or even better a Schottky diode wouldn't they clamp at the forward bias of the junction .7 volts of less. If not how long could you expect the diode to survive that abuse of 75v across the forward biased junction. If the diode then failed open you would never know your protection was gone. 73, Bob K2TK Carl wrote: Don, seriously disagree about the magnitude of the kick. For years I taught a course on industrial installations and demo'ed the kick issue by soldering two bare wire to the coil of a small Potter and Brumfield ice cube 12 vdc relay. I would pick the biggest guy in the class to hold the wires while I touched them to a nine-volt transistor radio battery. And then watch as he would throw the relay across the room. A reverse diode would vastly reduce the effect. Well, I got yelled at and was told Hey, Stupid (and stupid wasn't the word they used)! Put that on a storage scope to see what you're messing with. The scope showed a spike of 450 vdc! The diode reduced it to less than 75 vdc. The magnitude is due mainly to the large inductance of the coil, but until some measurements are taken, some caution is advised. The inductance of any coil inside a K2 or K3 is bound to be much smaller. But the phenomenon is the same. 73, Carl WC0V __ Elecraft mailing list Home:
[Elecraft] NR AGC
hello all, Anyone try this: listening a S7 to S9 signal (SSB) on any band with your headphone, at this time, try to enable NR, you will hear a really LOUD audio! Maybe need firmware upgrade to fix it. 73s David BA4RF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] NR AGC
I can confirm this. I've heard it on strong SSB signals and it's easy to demonstrate with the XG2 signal generator set to the 50uV level. The more aggressive the NR setting, the louder the strong signals become. Using the XG2 and the K3's built in AFV meter, NR F1-1 gives a 3.1 dB boost and NR F4-4 gives a 16.4 dB boost. 73 -- Joe KB8AP On Apr 7, 2009, at 7:47 PM, chen dave wrote: hello all, Anyone try this: listening a S7 to S9 signal (SSB) on any band with your headphone, at this time, try to enable NR, you will hear a really LOUD audio! Maybe need firmware upgrade to fix it. 73s David BA4RF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] NR AGC
Confirm this one also, I dont operate SSB but tuned in a couple stations to try it out and it will blow your ears off when you hit the NR button. Did not reload older software to see where it took place but its new on the last release or so. Merv KH7C I can confirm this. I've heard it on strong SSB signals and it's easy to demonstrate with the XG2 signal generator set to the 50uV level. The more aggressive the NR setting, the louder the strong signals become. Using the XG2 and the K3's built in AFV meter, NR F1-1 gives a 3.1 dB boost and NR F4-4 gives a 16.4 dB boost. 73 -- Joe KB8AP On Apr 7, 2009, at 7:47 PM, chen dave wrote: hello all, Anyone try this: listening a S7 to S9 signal (SSB) on any band with your headphone, at this time, try to enable NR, you will hear a really LOUD audio! Maybe need firmware upgrade to fix it. 73s David BA4RF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
