Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide
Hi, Doug, That is a tough one. You might want to start (if you haven't already) with the KX-1 FAQ at http://www.elecraft.com/KX1/kx1faq.htm This also has a section on KX-1 and K1 comparison. I built a K1 and ended up selling it after getting my KX-1. I do have to say that I miss the K1, but for me the KX-1 was a better fit. As others have said, you need to determine what you are going to do with the radio and go from there. The big advantage to the KX-1 is its portability. I have mine in a small case with ear buds, two small spools of wire (my antenna) and the BNC to binding post adapter. I can throw this into any suitcase or backpack and have a radio with me wherever I go. Once you get where you are going, you an be up and running in minutes. The built-in paddles mean that all you need is a place to sit. No table required. I have modified the battery setup on my KX-1 to get 12VDC and 3.5 watts, so the difference in power between it and K1 is negligible. What do I miss on the K1? The primary thing is 15 meters. I wish I could get that on the KX-1, but I think I will build a MFJ Cub to cover that band. At any rate, you will have fun building and operating the rig no matter which way you go. Good luck and enjoy your recovery! 73, John, WA6L Doug Person wrote: While I hang around the recovering from my back surgery and a nasty case of pneumonia, I've run out of projects that require melting solder. This of course means its time to order another kit. After spending hours (I have lots of time) researching kits, I, naturally, arrived back at Elecraft.com reading the QST reviews of the K1 and KX1. I've built them both before and it will certainly be a joy once again regardless of which I choose. It seems I just can't operate cw with the K3. Not that it isn't fantastic - its just, well, too easy. So another QRP radio is what I need. I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1. And, no, I can't buy both. I did look at a few single band kits. But then I start pinging and ponging over 40 VS: 20. I gotta have both. So, what? flip a coin? Have my wife choose? Dilemma. 73, Doug -- K0DXV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Dilemma%3A--K1-or-KX1---I-can%27t-decide-tp3388744p3392972.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] For Sale: Black Widow Paddle (built) $50
For sale is a Black Widow paddle built from a kit. It is finished in clear coat but could use a refinish. It works great and has no problems otherwise. Does not include cable. Price is $50 + USPS shipping Please send email to tom.campie AT gmail.com Picture available at: http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/9853/dsc03848li8.jpg 73 Tom W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide
John, Thanks for your comments. In general, it seems more people favor the KX-1. I was thinking more about building a kit than I was what I would ultimately use it for. So being prodded by this question multiple times, I concluded that clearly the portability is an issue and that favors the KX-1. So my order is placed and I now look forward to the arrival of yet another white box. 73, Doug -- K0DXV WA6L wrote: Hi, Doug, That is a tough one. You might want to start (if you haven't already) with the KX-1 FAQ at http://www.elecraft.com/KX1/kx1faq.htm This also has a section on KX-1 and K1 comparison. I built a K1 and ended up selling it after getting my KX-1. I do have to say that I miss the K1, but for me the KX-1 was a better fit. As others have said, you need to determine what you are going to do with the radio and go from there. The big advantage to the KX-1 is its portability. I have mine in a small case with ear buds, two small spools of wire (my antenna) and the BNC to binding post adapter. I can throw this into any suitcase or backpack and have a radio with me wherever I go. Once you get where you are going, you an be up and running in minutes. The built-in paddles mean that all you need is a place to sit. No table required. I have modified the battery setup on my KX-1 to get 12VDC and 3.5 watts, so the difference in power between it and K1 is negligible. What do I miss on the K1? The primary thing is 15 meters. I wish I could get that on the KX-1, but I think I will build a MFJ Cub to cover that band. At any rate, you will have fun building and operating the rig no matter which way you go. Good luck and enjoy your recovery! 73, John, WA6L Doug Person wrote: While I hang around the recovering from my back surgery and a nasty case of pneumonia, I've run out of projects that require melting solder. This of course means its time to order another kit. After spending hours (I have lots of time) researching kits, I, naturally, arrived back at Elecraft.com reading the QST reviews of the K1 and KX1. I've built them both before and it will certainly be a joy once again regardless of which I choose. It seems I just can't operate cw with the K3. Not that it isn't fantastic - its just, well, too easy. So another QRP radio is what I need. I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1. And, no, I can't buy both. I did look at a few single band kits. But then I start pinging and ponging over 40 VS: 20. I gotta have both. So, what? flip a coin? Have my wife choose? Dilemma. 73, Doug -- K0DXV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide
I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1. And, no, I can't buy both. 73, Doug -- K0DXV The only advantage the KX1 has over the K1 is the small size and the ability to operate on the phone bands, cross mode, of course. This allows checking into the phone nets to pass traffic. The K1 is a better rig in all other respects. I built a K1, sold it to get a KX1 and than sold that to get another K1. For my needs, the K1 is a better rig. 73, Rick Dettinger K7MW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide
The only advantage the KX1 has over the K1 is the small size and the ability to operate on the phone bands, cross mode, of course In my experience KX1 also has an edge in: - speed of setup (time taken to get on the air) - easy of battery operation battery changes. In a nutshell, KX1 saves space (obvious to most) and saves time (maybe not as obvious) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide
Well, the decision seems to have been made, so this is probably too late to have much meaning. However, I will add a few comments since I have both rigs. The K1 is a very nice rig. Until I had the 4 band version, however, I was disappointed in it's utility for my type of operating. I had the 2nd band board, but changing it was way too much effort. Now I am much happier. The K1, reasonably loaded, runs over $500 now. That's not cheap, but it is a very FB rig. The KX-1 is about $100 less, which may be an incentive. The KX-1 is much easier to pack, and I really like small rigs. The KX-1 fits in my computer case--the K1 does not. My biggest complaint about the KX-1 is power output. I've never been able to get much more than 2.5 watts from it, and that isn't on all bands. I had lots of discussions with tech support about this, and not too much success getting it closer to the 4 watt advertised output. I've also had my hands on a few others, and they seem to run around the same output. The K1, on the other hand will do 6 to 8 watts--a big difference sometimes. The KX-1 is now only available for two bands, or 4 bands. The 4th band is 80 meters, which I consider a poor choice for QRP. The bigger problem usually is an antenna for that band. My version is the older one with the 30 meter module added. That suffices for my needs. The K1 will do 17 meters (a good trade-off for 80 meters in my view). I really like 17 meters, and have had lots of good DX contacts there. The KX-1 is a harder build. If you are careful though, you should be fine. Something that small has to be a little cramped in a few places. In a contest, like FD or something, you probably will wish you had a K1. The KX-1 contests too, but not nearly as comfortably. Overall, I'd opt for the KX-1. Notwithstanding the lower output, if conditions are reasonable you should still be O.K. Don't plan on any long ragchews though! This little rig is so clever, you can't help but be impressed with it each time you pull it out. You can even do some BC band listening. You need some good, sensitive earphones. Audio is a little wimpy from the KX-1. I'd also suggest not mounting batteries internally in either rig. For one thing, it adds weight, but more importantly I actually find it less convenient. A small, AA pack runs the KX-1 nicely, and for a fairly long period of time. Having the batteries outside reduces risk of acid leaks too. Yeah, I know! You should remove them when not in use, but who doesn't forget sometimes? The K1 needs a little bigger battery really (since it runs more power), but a 2ah, or 4ah battery is sufficient, and can be packed easily outside the rig. The overall weight is the same--just where you put it changes. Both rigs have good points and bad points. Some overlap. How you plan to use it dictates. The good news is that either rig is a winner. Dave W7AQK - Original Message - From: Rick Dettinger k7m...@gmail.com To: Doug Person d...@northroutt.net Cc: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 9:25 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1. And, no, I can't buy both. 73, Doug -- K0DXV The only advantage the KX1 has over the K1 is the small size and the ability to operate on the phone bands, cross mode, of course. This allows checking into the phone nets to pass traffic. The K1 is a better rig in all other respects. I built a K1, sold it to get a KX1 and than sold that to get another K1. For my needs, the K1 is a better rig. 73, Rick Dettinger K7MW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K1 v. KX1 while recovering from surgery
I just built a K1 while recovering from gallbladder surgery. For my money, if you are on painkillers the K1 is easier to build, though I stared at the LCD backlight instructions for about an hour before any understanding seeped in. Such is building on Vicodin. The fiddly battery option is a plus since you want to draw out the building process as long as possible, like reading a good book. I don't think I could have built my KX1 on Vicodin, I remember that build being a little more demanding. One other thing, you can build multiple filter boards, and if you are really crafty you can build an FL1-2 board, then change both bands and rebuild it! Have fun whichever way you go Eric WD6DBM Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Noise with KUSB
Hi Svend, I do not normally use the KUSB but I have just tried a simple experiment. I measured the change in noise in the following conditions: PR6 - ON PRE - OFF AGC - OFF K3 - SSB mode, 2k7 BW ANTENNA terminated with 50 ohm. Nothing connected to KIO3: +0dBV K3 RS232 cable PC communicating with K3: +1dBV K3 KUSB PC communicating with K3: +10dBV K3 RS232 cable KUSB PC communicating with K3: +0dBV All readings +/- 0.1 to 0.2dBV My RS232 cable home made to K9YC design using CAT6 UTP cable is approximately 3 metres long. The presence of band noise naturally masks much of the PC noise but the increase in background noise level at this QTH when connecting the KUSB alone is still approximately +3dBV. With band noise I do not detect any increase in noise due to the RS232 cable alone. With the PR6 OFF and the K3 internal pre-amp on, noise from the KUSB is approximately +.3dBV. It seems in my configuration PC noise is least with K3 RS232 cable KUSB PC combination. Interesting. Maybe others would like to try and replicate this, perhaps using better test equipment than that built into the K3. It might be worth testing to see if this reduction in KUSB noise can be achieved with a much shorter RS232 tail to the K9YC design or even an appropriately wired back to back RS232 gender changer. This set me thinking that it might be a good idea to make a short cable for the K2 I/O to enable use of the KUSB or a regular RS232 cable without the danger of damage to the K2 I/O. I have not had much opportunity to play with the PR6 due to lack of 6M activity here at present other than EME. Regards, Mike VP8NO - Original Message - From: Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk To: Mike Harris mike.har...@cwimail.fk Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 5:54 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Noise with KUSB Hi Mike. Thank you for answering! I have the KUSB adapter from Elecraft. Do you suggest that I make a short cable like you did between the K3 and the KUSB? The noise is specially irritating on 6 m. I don't have a preamp yet, but building one is on my to-do list. What is your experience with PR6? After I discovered the source it has become clear to me, that the noise is on all bands more or less My old laptop has a serial port, but I went for the USB solution because I plan to buy a new PC, which likely will only have USB ports. It is not grounded though - I will see if there is possibility to ground the PC. Lots of 73's de Svend, OZ7UV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] W2
Anyone heard anything on a ship date or manual download availability for the W2? When I ordered mine I was told they are hoping to ship sometime this month. 73, Bill NZ0T -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/W2-tp3394038p3394038.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Variable bandwidth crystal filter
I seem to remember talk some time ago about a variable bandwidth crystal filter becoming available for the K3 at some stage. Anyone know the status of its development? J R Groeger DK3NG, G4XXW, EL0AA/MM K1, K2, K3 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W2
On Wed, 5 Aug 2009 13:38:13 -0500 (CDT), NZ0T n...@cox.net wrote: Anyone heard anything on a ship date or manual download availability for the W2? When I ordered mine I was told they are hoping to ship sometime this month. 73, Bill NZ0T Nothing here. I believe they said Mid August. Tom, N5GE n...@n5ge.com K3 #806, K3 #1055, PR6, XV144, XV432, KRC2, W1 and other small kits. http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Steve KZ1X/4 - mag loop
Hey Steve, Thanks much for posting this! Is your driving loop approximately 10% the diameter of the full size? If I remember, that's how I did my loops. Totally awesome to have a vacuum cap!! Makes the whole design so much nicer. I picked up a surplus motorized potentiometer to drive my cap and controlled it with a PIC. works real nice. I've been keeping my eye out on ebay for a broken MJF mag-loop. I'd like to rob the control box and cap assembly out of it. I like the way they DC control through the coax with inductors. I know I could build that myself...but all the stuff is already their in their box :) Lazy mans home brew! tnx, Duane N1BBR -- bw...@fastmail.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 and 6 meters
Noticed today that on 6m, the K3 will go from 8 watts directly to 13 watts when switching over to the KPA3. Bug? -- 73 de James K2QI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Noise with KUSB
K3 KUSB PC communicating with K3: +10dBV K3 RS232 cable KUSB PC communicating with K3: +0dBV I wonder if physical proximity of the USB-serial adapter to the rear of the K3 is the cause of the problem? Maybe a magnetic coupling into the RX?? I'm guessing. 73 Gary ZL2iFB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loop antenna...off Elecraft topic
Hello Ron Thank you for your comments. I had little choice in antennas or stay off the air until the roof was accessible since the walls are so thick, apartment so small and the metal clad roof combine to render a wire antenna useless. Even on receive the wire antenna has worked little better than a dummy load. The losses as you mention in the turner, either the T or L form is what I am able to avoid by having a good match directly from the 50ohm unbalanced feedline. I had used the MFJ tuner's watt meter alone in tuner-bypass mode. I run the K2 with the KAT2 bypassed also. The match at resonance is 1:1 on the loop, and the feedline is short, less than 15 feet. I built a two gang piston capacitor yesterday using cooper pipe with Teflon tape as a thin dielectric layer between the inner and outer pipes and the Q improved quite a bit, and resulted in much narrower bandwidths. On the air tests with a station about 20 miles away on 40 indicated a 1.5 S unit difference in signal strength between the loop and indoor dipole connected with the two halves of the 20meter dipole open wire balanced feedline shorted together working against ground through the tuner. On 20, with the dipole connected as a resonant conventionally balanced-line fed dipole the signal was weaker for both but the other station reported 1 S unit difference, both cases the loop was stronger. I was seeing his signal stronger by about the same on the loop but the lower noise of the loop made it seem much stronger. Using the piston caps the tuning covers from about 5.5mhz to 22Mhz, and no additional fixed caps in parallel. I don't think I will bother trying to push it down to 80m. My girlfriend's family as a dacha outside the city and we are planning a party for our friends there next weekend so that will be a good test of the loop, in the clear compared to a wire dipole suspended between trees in the woods. I would expect the loop to lose that comparison test. The antenna problems could be all moot if I move in with my GF if I get way. Her apartment is in a taller building where she has access to the roof with no other antennas installed. That way I could put up a shortened yagi or quad on a short tower. Besides her apartment is beautifuljust as she is;) I am going back to California for a couple weeks at the end of this month and will be able to bring back some parts or more test gear unless I blow all my money on a K3 or new lenses for my camera. I need the lenses more than a K3 since the K2 does all I really need, particularly if I add the DSP filter. I like running the 10-14 watts of the K2 but I also have a TS50s here running 100watts if more power is needed. The K2 has a better receiver and has a lot more features so I only use the TS50s for its AM short wave broadcast capability. I did try the 100 watts with the loop and the capacitor did not arc or heat so if I got the 100watt upgrade kit for the K2 I would probably be safe. Thanks for the comments Stan -Original Message- From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:r...@cobi.biz] Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 7:38 PM To: 'Stan Jacox'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loop antenna...off Elecraft topic I'll certainly second David's, G3UNA, comments about using a wire for transmitting. Loops can be very effective for receiving though, as you noted. Any decent receiver (like the K2) has plenty of excess gain to make up for the losses in the loop itself, and they do tend to pick up less noise. With a receiving antenna, signal-to-noise ratio is everything while in a transmitting antenna efficiency becomes very important. You'll likely see more articles about small transmitting loops during the next sunspot peak when extreme low power will work the world and the very poor efficiency of a small loop is not so apparent. If you have access to the attic space in your building you might consider a single wire or doublet directly under the roofing material if it's not a metal roof. You can fabricate open wire line with some nominal sized wire and makeshift spacers. The spacing isn't important nor does it have to be entirely consistent. Such feeders can pass through tiny holes in most ceilings no larger than a small nail and which are easily patched when you leave. A bit of spackle or even the apartment dweller's friend (tooth paste) will plug the little holes when you're done. Depending upon the composition of those bricks (some clay has much more metal ore in it than others), you may not see as much attenuation as you expect if you're limited to a wire inside your unit. You wrote: A big plus is being able to match the antenna directly bypassing the KAT2 for higher efficiency. My built-in K2 tuner is more efficient than my MFJ tuner even though the MFJ has some usefulness for use with balanced lines and built-in dummy load. I wouldn't assume that is true unless you are talking about transmission line losses between the loop and the K2. You don't mention
Re: [Elecraft] W2
We're getting everything in for W2 manufacturing right now. If it all makes it here on time we should be shipping last week of this month or 1st week of Sept. Eric, WA6HHQ Elecraft Radio Amateur N5GE wrote: On Wed, 5 Aug 2009 13:38:13 -0500 (CDT), NZ0T n...@cox.net wrote: Anyone heard anything on a ship date or manual download availability for the W2? When I ordered mine I was told they are hoping to ship sometime this month. 73, Bill NZ0T __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 and 6 meters
Mine does that on ALL bands! cleve/W5CEM -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-and-6-meters-tp3394622p3395202.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops
Thank you everyone who contributed to this thread. I am quite happy that this kluge works as well as it does so never one to leave well enough alone I went back to the plumbing shop and got them to create 2 cooper pipe sections using the eq of 2in diameter tubing, each 12ft in length. Through the language barrier we agreed that they would use their tubing bender to bend each section into a 1/2 circle and swage one end so the two seconds could be overlapped inserting one into the other for several inches. They said I could pick them up tomorrow. I also got 2 90 degree elbows to form the ends of a new set of piston caps. The sections are just small enough to drag up the stairs to my living room and assemble once inside my apartment. The new loop will have that one joint in the main loop that has to be soldered with a torch. When assembled the 2 in diameter tubing will form a loop that is 8 feet tall giving a few feet clearance in the living room if mounted vertically. The resistive losses should be pretty low for this new loop that should cover down to 80m but be optimum for 40m. I'll try to find another Jennings Vac cap when I go back to California Aug 30. But if not the piston caps work fine. Years ago I built a loop that worked well in a large Jennings cap, the most difficult part was the gear reduction mechanics. I read the German language papers concerning magnet loops written in the 40s when they were developed for submarine use so the whole concept of magnetic antenna had intrigued me for years. Figuring out the tuning range is pretty simple using my Motorola service monitor tracking generator and spectrum analyzer. I'll report back when I get it assembled tomorrow night. Stan __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated)
I've sent an email over to Aptos hoping that they may know what's going on with my K3. A few days ago, I noticed that sometimes the amount of line-in gain required for a digital signal from DM780 varied quite a bit. Some days, all it took was a level of 14 and I'd have about 6 bars of ALC. On others, gain had to be set to nearly 25. Well, today it seems that my line-in died all together or at the very least has become heavily attenuated. I now have to crank the line gain all the way up to 60 to get about 3 bars ALC!! I have checked, and no audio settings have been changed on my PC. I even plugged in a set of speakers to the line out jack on the PC and everything is fine. What is weird is that sometimes, fiddling around with the mic/line input settings in the Main menu fixes things for a while, but then it's back to almost zero input after a while. Any suggestions? Lyle seems to think it could be a bad solder. I'm going to let the rig cool off and see if the problem occurs while cold. I've also reloaded the current firmware twice, plus went back to 3.19 just to make sure it wasn't a FW issue. -- 73 de James K2QI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W2
Thanks Eris! You man. Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: We're getting everything in for W2 manufacturing right now. If it all makes it here on time we should be shipping last week of this month or 1st week of Sept. Eric, WA6HHQ Elecraft Radio Amateur N5GE wrote: On Wed, 5 Aug 2009 13:38:13 -0500 (CDT), NZ0T n...@cox.net wrote: Anyone heard anything on a ship date or manual download availability for the W2? When I ordered mine I was told they are hoping to ship sometime this month. 73, Bill NZ0T __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/W2-tp3394038p3395438.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] W2
Make that Eric, I have no idea who Eris is. :wistle: Thanks Eris! You man. -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/W2-tp3394038p3395443.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Variable bandwidth crystal filter
J.R. Groeger wrote: I seem to remember talk some time ago about a variable bandwidth crystal filter becoming available for the K3 at some stage. Anyone know the status of its development? With the upoming 10 Hz resolution DSP upgrade (Firmware 3.23 being talked about), I certainly wouldn't see much need for a variable BW roofing filter. 73, Chuck NI0C K2, K3 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] FS: Black Widow Paddle $50 (update)
Here is a picture I took of it today (the other one was from a year ago): http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1986/dsc04266e.jpg Tom W0EA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated)
Check the RF chokes L4 and L5 on the KIO3 Audio IO board. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Sarte Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 7:06 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated) I've sent an email over to Aptos hoping that they may know what's going on with my K3. A few days ago, I noticed that sometimes the amount of line-in gain required for a digital signal from DM780 varied quite a bit. Some days, all it took was a level of 14 and I'd have about 6 bars of ALC. On others, gain had to be set to nearly 25. Well, today it seems that my line-in died all together or at the very least has become heavily attenuated. I now have to crank the line gain all the way up to 60 to get about 3 bars ALC!! I have checked, and no audio settings have been changed on my PC. I even plugged in a set of speakers to the line out jack on the PC and everything is fine. What is weird is that sometimes, fiddling around with the mic/line input settings in the Main menu fixes things for a while, but then it's back to almost zero input after a while. Any suggestions? Lyle seems to think it could be a bad solder. I'm going to let the rig cool off and see if the problem occurs while cold. I've also reloaded the current firmware twice, plus went back to 3.19 just to make sure it wasn't a FW issue. -- 73 de James K2QI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Variable bandwidth crystal filter
With the upoming 10 Hz resolution DSP upgrade (Firmware 3.23 being talked about), I certainly wouldn't see much need for a variable BW roofing filter. 10 Hz steps for DSP does not eliminate the need for a variable BW roofing filter. It would certainly be nice to have something that went from narrow SSB to wide CW ... to fill the hole between 2.7/2.8 and 500 HZ. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Chuck Guenther Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 7:51 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Cc: joachim.groe...@ewetel.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Variable bandwidth crystal filter J.R. Groeger wrote: I seem to remember talk some time ago about a variable bandwidth crystal filter becoming available for the K3 at some stage. Anyone know the status of its development? With the upoming 10 Hz resolution DSP upgrade (Firmware 3.23 being talked about), I certainly wouldn't see much need for a variable BW roofing filter. 73, Chuck NI0C K2, K3 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated)
Chokes look fine but L4 and L5 aren't directly connected to line-in; they seem to be connected to the microphone in though. I took the KIO3 apart and traced the line-input circuit for continuity. The whole board looks good with no cold solder joints. Anyway, I put everything back and voila... works like new. In fact, even better than before. I only need to set the input gain to about 10 to get a nice signal in from DM780 and registering about 5.5 to 6 bars ALC. This leads me to think two things; 1. Something was loose and my refitting the boards took care of it 2. There's still a cold solder somewhere that gets affected by heat I'll leave the rig on for a while and keep testing. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. 73 de James K2QI On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote: Check the RF chokes L4 and L5 on the KIO3 Audio IO board. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Sarte Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 7:06 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated) I've sent an email over to Aptos hoping that they may know what's going on with my K3. A few days ago, I noticed that sometimes the amount of line-in gain required for a digital signal from DM780 varied quite a bit. Some days, all it took was a level of 14 and I'd have about 6 bars of ALC. On others, gain had to be set to nearly 25. Well, today it seems that my line-in died all together or at the very least has become heavily attenuated. I now have to crank the line gain all the way up to 60 to get about 3 bars ALC!! I have checked, and no audio settings have been changed on my PC. I even plugged in a set of speakers to the line out jack on the PC and everything is fine. What is weird is that sometimes, fiddling around with the mic/line input settings in the Main menu fixes things for a while, but then it's back to almost zero input after a while. Any suggestions? Lyle seems to think it could be a bad solder. I'm going to let the rig cool off and see if the problem occurs while cold. I've also reloaded the current firmware twice, plus went back to 3.19 just to make sure it wasn't a FW issue. -- 73 de James K2QI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- 73 de James K2QI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated)
Chokes look fine but L4 and L5 aren't directly connected to line-in; they seem to be connected to the microphone in though. According to the schematic, L4 and L5 are line in ... L6 and L7 are rear panel mic in (L7 is removed in the RFI fix). 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: James Sarte [mailto:k2qi@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 9:40 PM To: li...@subich.com Cc: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated) Chokes look fine but L4 and L5 aren't directly connected to line-in; they seem to be connected to the microphone in though. I took the KIO3 apart and traced the line-input circuit for continuity. The whole board looks good with no cold solder joints. Anyway, I put everything back and voila... works like new. In fact, even better than before. I only need to set the input gain to about 10 to get a nice signal in from DM780 and registering about 5.5 to 6 bars ALC. This leads me to think two things; 1. Something was loose and my refitting the boards took care of it 2. There's still a cold solder somewhere that gets affected by heat I'll leave the rig on for a while and keep testing. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. 73 de James K2QI On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote: Check the RF chokes L4 and L5 on the KIO3 Audio IO board. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Sarte Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 7:06 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated) I've sent an email over to Aptos hoping that they may know what's going on with my K3. A few days ago, I noticed that sometimes the amount of line-in gain required for a digital signal from DM780 varied quite a bit. Some days, all it took was a level of 14 and I'd have about 6 bars of ALC. On others, gain had to be set to nearly 25. Well, today it seems that my line-in died all together or at the very least has become heavily attenuated. I now have to crank the line gain all the way up to 60 to get about 3 bars ALC!! I have checked, and no audio settings have been changed on my PC. I even plugged in a set of speakers to the line out jack on the PC and everything is fine. What is weird is that sometimes, fiddling around with the mic/line input settings in the Main menu fixes things for a while, but then it's back to almost zero input after a while. Any suggestions? Lyle seems to think it could be a bad solder. I'm going to let the rig cool off and see if the problem occurs while cold. I've also reloaded the current firmware twice, plus went back to 3.19 just to make sure it wasn't a FW issue. -- 73 de James K2QI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide
Doug wrote: I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1. As far as RF performance only goes, the K1 is, IMHO, clearly superior. (1) The K1 uses an LC VFO that is cleaner than the direct digital synthesis frequency generation scheme of the KX1. This reduces transmitter spurious output, and improves receiver performance because fewer spur frequencies are part of the local oscillator signal fed to the front-end mixer. According to reported measurements of the K1 with two-band board, it has better transmitter spurious output specs than even the K2. The low-pass filtering of the four-band version is much better than the two-band version, so that's even better. (2) The K1 can be placed on any of the HF bands, though Elecraft currently sells parts for 80m through 15m only. The KX1 DDS chip is clocked at its maximum rate of 50 MHz, which limits KX1 frequency coverage to around 20m and lower. The 15m band is one of the best QRP bands when open. (3) The K1 IF uses a four-pole crystal filter, while the KX1 IF uses a three-pole filter. (4) The K1's optional auto antenna tuner tunes a much wider range of impedances than that of the KX1. (5) Most find the continuous LC VFO tuning of the K1 to be more natural than the step-wise tuning of the DDS in the KX1. (6) The K1 has a noise blanker option, while the KX1 does not. (7) The K1 transmitter can produce up to seven watts of output power. The KX1 is about half that, if one is lucky. (8) The K1 case contains a speaker, the KX1 does not. (The K1 has plenty of audio to drive it too.) (9) IMHO, the full-house K1 (with KNB1, KAT1, and four-band board) is easier (less-tricky) to build than the full-house KX1 with all its options (40/20m with 80/30m option, KXAT1). (10) Personal preference...I like the front mounted controls of the K1 more than the top mounted controls of the KX1. OTOH, the KX1 is clearly superior in terms of VFO stability. The DDS is about as stable as a crystal oscillator. It is superior in its span of frequency coverage within the limits of the DDS. It can switch between USB and LSB due to the frequency agility of the DDS as the local oscillator. It has neat features like audio feedback to controls. It is definitely smaller and lighter. IMHO, the KX1 definitely has some positive features that the K1 doesn't have. None of them, except VFO stability, are improvements in RF performance on the ham CW bands. Plus, the K1's LC VFO is amazingly stable. But...if the K1 were not available, the KX1 would be my very next choice for a QRP rig. It's a very fine and well-designed rig. You really can't go wrong whatever choice you make. 73, Mike / KK5F __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated)
That's true, and that's why I'm confused... continuity tests with L4 and L5 correlate to the rear panel microphone connector and not the line-in jack. James K2QI -Original Message- From: Joe Subich, W4TV [mailto:li...@subich.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 11:27 PM To: 'James Sarte' Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector' Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated) Chokes look fine but L4 and L5 aren't directly connected to line-in; they seem to be connected to the microphone in though. According to the schematic, L4 and L5 are line in ... L6 and L7 are rear panel mic in (L7 is removed in the RFI fix). 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: James Sarte [mailto:k2qi@gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 9:40 PM To: li...@subich.com Cc: Elecraft Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated) Chokes look fine but L4 and L5 aren't directly connected to line-in; they seem to be connected to the microphone in though. I took the KIO3 apart and traced the line-input circuit for continuity. The whole board looks good with no cold solder joints. Anyway, I put everything back and voila... works like new. In fact, even better than before. I only need to set the input gain to about 10 to get a nice signal in from DM780 and registering about 5.5 to 6 bars ALC. This leads me to think two things; 1. Something was loose and my refitting the boards took care of it 2. There's still a cold solder somewhere that gets affected by heat I'll leave the rig on for a while and keep testing. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. 73 de James K2QI On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote: Check the RF chokes L4 and L5 on the KIO3 Audio IO board. 73, ... Joe, W4TV -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James Sarte Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 7:06 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Line-In dead (or heavily attenuated) I've sent an email over to Aptos hoping that they may know what's going on with my K3. A few days ago, I noticed that sometimes the amount of line-in gain required for a digital signal from DM780 varied quite a bit. Some days, all it took was a level of 14 and I'd have about 6 bars of ALC. On others, gain had to be set to nearly 25. Well, today it seems that my line-in died all together or at the very least has become heavily attenuated. I now have to crank the line gain all the way up to 60 to get about 3 bars ALC!! I have checked, and no audio settings have been changed on my PC. I even plugged in a set of speakers to the line out jack on the PC and everything is fine. What is weird is that sometimes, fiddling around with the mic/line input settings in the Main menu fixes things for a while, but then it's back to almost zero input after a while. Any suggestions? Lyle seems to think it could be a bad solder. I'm going to let the rig cool off and see if the problem occurs while cold. I've also reloaded the current firmware twice, plus went back to 3.19 just to make sure it wasn't a FW issue. -- 73 de James K2QI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide
The K1 looks like a radio and not like a high tech Etch A Sketch. John k7up K1, 2 K2's, K3 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] C/O Brian (Web Administrator) K4
James Sarte wrote: Well, to be honest there are still several features advertised that to this date still haven't been implemented. For example: 1. Synchronous AM detection 2. Temperature controlled oscillator calibration Those are just two features missing that I can recall of the top of my head. Also on the list from 4/3/08: The NOTCH button. The way it is now: Tap it to turn on AutoNOTCH. Tap it again and it goes to MANUAL NOTCH, but you can't adjust it unless you then HOLD it. Tap it again and it goes off. HOLD it and it goes to MANUAL NOTCH and you can adjust the notch frequency. Why not: Tap NOTCH and AutoNOTCH comes on. Tap it again and AutoNOTCH goes off. Or HOLD NOTCH and it goes to MANUAL NOTCH and you can adjust the notch frequency. Tap it and it goes off. - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
