Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:14:50 -0500 (CDT), Rich wrote: Not only does that illustrate how a lousy ground can carry quite a bit of current, but also why it is important to have a good ground rod at your WRONG! The earth connection on power systems is a lightning discharge path, and it typically has a fairly high resistance to earth, especially with lousy soil. The EARTH connection does NOT CARRY POWER CURRENT. The HOT and the NEUTRAL do that. The coil at the base of the pole sounds like lazy electricians to me. The ground rod at the power system entrance IS very important. See http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish and study the tutorial on Power and Grounding for Audio and Video. It explains a lot about how power systems work. I'm nearly finished with an international version. BTW -- I also wrote the Grounding section in K7LXC's new book on towers. Ken Kopp said: As others have said NEVER use the U hole in the outlet for a wrist-strap or anti-static mat connection! Others are wrong. BY LAW, the U hole must be a solid ground carried from the power system service entrance. As long as that connection is there, it is PLENTY good enough to discharge static. Mine goes to the station ground buss ... 2 wide CU strap ... that's connected directly to a number (12) of 8' ground rods that are all bonded together with #8 CU wire. There is no connection between this ground system and the power company's entrance ground. And you are DEAD WRONG. BY LAW, ALL GROUNDS MUST BE BONDED TOGETHER. To do otherwise is UNSAFE. There is often measurable potential between the white neutral wire, the green ground wire and a ground rod. There MUST be measureable potential between the white (neutral) wire and the ground wire -- the neutral carries the current of the load, the green ground wire must NOT carry that current. In some parts of Canada there is just one wire used in the power distribution, especially in rural areas. The earth is the other side of the distribution circuit. That's also done in Australia, but only for HIGH VOLTAGE distribution (tens of kV) (which has proportionally lower current for the same power), not for local distribution. The earth is FAR too lossy (resistive) to do that for low voltage (120V/240V/480V). This was the case for rural phone lines in the US in the past. Not quite. The use of the earth was for signalling (ringing), and was balanced (called simplex, similar to phantom power used to power professional microphones on balanced cables). An audio frequency loop with a single wire and earth as a return would be VERY buzzy, because it picks up the magnetic field of the power system and the 3-phase noise current in the earth. W8IHY and I did that around 1957 between our houses that were about three city blocks apart (in Huntington, WV). It was very buzzy. :) Many major misconceptions have been thrown around in this thread. Some of you guys need to study my power and grounding tutorial. 73, Jim Brown K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
Coiling the down-the-pole ground wire in a concentric circle on the bottom end of a power pole is the accepted method of achieving ground and isn't because of lazy electricians. Electricians don't erect power lines, linemen do. (;-) I'm a retiree from the Montana Power Company, FWIW. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: FS: K3 with many options
The radio has been sold thanks NZ8J Sent from my iPhone On Aug 31, 2009, at 10:49 AM, Tim Cook n...@woh.rr.com wrote: Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: From: Tim Cook n...@woh.rr.com Date: August 31, 2009 10:48:11 AM EDT Subject: FS: K3 with many options I decided to sell my recently purchased (used) K3. I really like the radio in terms of performance but can't get past some of the ergonomics, band switching is one example. Anyhow it is for sale. It is in very nice condition, serial number 868. It was a kit built and updated by an electronics engineer. It has almost all the required updates except the last couple about vfo noise and strong signals. It has: K3/100 KAT3 KTCXO3-1 KRX3 KXV3 KBPF3 KDVR3 400hz 8 pole filters (2ea.) 250 hz 8 pole filter 2.8 kHz 8 pole filter in sub rx 2.7 kHz 5 pole filter in the main rx Power cord, rs-232 cable for updates, a later version of the K3 manual in a bound folder. (accessory manuals are on line) Has the latest firmware installed. $3150 shipped and insured in the US. Paypal preferred if you want it this week, will be out of town next week. Can send pictures later today if interested. No trades please. Thanks Tim NZ8J Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wrist strap / mat grounding
Ken Kopp wrote: Mine goes to the station ground buss ... 2 wide CU strap ... that's connected directly to a number (12) of 8' ground rods that are all bonded together with #8 CU wire. There is no connection between this ground system and the power company's entrance ground. A ground rod that is not connected to the electrical utility entry ground in in direct violation of National Electrical Code requirements. For the safety of yourself and others in your household, please add the missing wire. If a fault condition happens in your house wiring that causes current to be carried on the 'green wire ground' conductor, the potential between your extra ground and anything connected to the 'green wire ground' can become quite high and anyone in contact with both can become a conductor. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wrist strap / mat grounding
Yes well said Don, Ken this is a very unsafe condition to have two ground points which are not tied together. The potential between the two can be deadly in the event of a fault.I know first hand from previous experience that this is true :-( Be safe! And be sure you understand why this NEC code is SO important. Tim (NW0W) On Tue, Sep 1, 2009 at 6:37 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Ken Kopp wrote: Mine goes to the station ground buss ... 2 wide CU strap ... that's connected directly to a number (12) of 8' ground rods that are all bonded together with #8 CU wire. There is no connection between this ground system and the power company's entrance ground. A ground rod that is not connected to the electrical utility entry ground in in direct violation of National Electrical Code requirements. For the safety of yourself and others in your household, please add the missing wire. If a fault condition happens in your house wiring that causes current to be carried on the 'green wire ground' conductor, the potential between your extra ground and anything connected to the 'green wire ground' can become quite high and anyone in contact with both can become a conductor. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- The whole world is you. Yet you keep thinking there is something else. - Xuefeng Yicun 822-902 A.D. Tim R. Havens 1232 Pine Street Leadwood, MO 63653 mobile: 573.915.2081 home: 573.747.4879 ham radio callsign: NW0W __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Image on 160 Meters
Hello All, On 160 Meters when I rotate the RIT knob fast to change the frequency, as I sweep across the 160M band I get some kind of image signal. ( The K3 is in LSB mode ) This occurred only when the Antenna is connected. I can stop on the image signal, and when I rotate the main tuning knob a few increments or so the image signal goes away. This is quite repeatable. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks 73 Ken K5DNL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
Thanks!!! I have lived in 7 states and the Linemen/women have done it that way in every one of those states! Even the railroad does it that way! You would also be quite glad your neutral was grounded at your house and the pole transformer had a ground when you lose a neutral wire (some call it a ground wire but in my first post I was trying to keep out the technical stuff). I have been at houses where this happened, the refrigerator or some heavy 115 VAC appliance kicked on and wiped out all of the appliances on the other side. Happened at the customers fuse panel so he was responsible for all the damages. The story I gave earlier had a happy ending because of the low ground (earth, dirt) resistance. Ken Kopp-3 wrote: Coiling the down-the-pole ground wire in a concentric circle on the bottom end of a power pole is the accepted method of achieving ground and isn't because of lazy electricians. Electricians don't erect power lines, linemen do. (;-) I'm a retiree from the Montana Power Company, FWIW. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/I-need-some-grounding-strap-guidance-if-n-you-please-tp3553392p3560901.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] 40 meter Elecraft net
Man, some people can be RUDE! I can't tell you how many times I've found myself listening to a couple of hams in a friendly rag-chew, and someone comes right in on top of them, tunes up and calls CQ. Anyway..when is the Elecraft 40 meter CW net scheduled? Thanks Duane N1BBR -- bw...@fastmail.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 Alignment Buddy Wanted...Ontario, Canada
Hi I am the owner of a K2 which I built about 3 years ago. The radio needs to be aligned and I know I could do this by myself, but I would much prefer to do it with someone who has been through the drill before. Is there anyone in southern Ontario who would mind serving as my alignment buddy where I could drop by with my radio and we could go through the alignment process together. I am located in Prince Edward County, but can drive anywhere. Treat VA3IMO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
One measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions I just used my Simpson 260 to measure from a J-bolt (that I placed when I built half of my house) to a cold water pipe that is bonded to both a ground rod and an AWG 4 bare copper wire buried next to the foundation around the building periphery. The resistance was ~10K. So this would increase the ground strap resistance to ground by 1%, that's a few ohms in my book. Regards, Wes N7WS --- On Mon, 8/31/09, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote: From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Monday, August 31, 2009, 11:39 PM On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 18:34:20 -0700 (PDT), Wes Stewart wrote: In the overall scheme of things, a J-bolt stuck in concrete is at worst a few more ohms in series with the current limiting resistor. Not so. I recently poured a tower and buried three 2-inch wide pieces of copper in the concrete base at widely separated places in the base (which was roughly 30 inches square by 48 inches deep). The DC resistance between those straps was on the order of 100 ohms when I measured with a Simpson 260 more than a month after pouring. I completely agree that a ground like that is plenty good enough to discharge a wrist strap, but it's a LOT more than a few ohms. The purpose of the wrist strap and the anti-static mat is to pull you and the work to something approximating a low potential with respect to earth by discharging any potential that may be on you, the parts, or anything else. Hundreds of kOhms is probably good enough to do that -- our bodies are typically tens or hundreds of kOhms from one point to another unless we're wet, and/or grasping conductors quite hard, and WE are a big part of what we're trying to discharge! :) 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Setting K3 LED Brightness
Quite by accident last night I discovered a feature I did not know existed. I tapped MENU and went to LED BRIGHTNESS. I was talking to some friends on the radio and keyed the mic while in this menu. All the LEDs on the front panel lit up and stayed lit until I made a menu change or left the menu. I found the brightness of all these LEDs can be adjusted in this menu. If this is covered in the manual, please excuse me because I didn't read it. I thought it was neat and wanted to share it. Roy Morris W4WFB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
--- On Tue, 9/1/09, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote: The coil at the base of the pole sounds like lazy electricians to me. Nope, it's SOP in the utility business. And no end of trouble in the RFI business. My rural electric co-op uses aluminum wire for the above-ground part of the grounding system, either for cost, copper theft, or both reasons. They also love staples and drive them at too frequent intervals up the pole to secure the ground wire. Unfortunately, a green pole shrinks considerably in the 6% RH typical here in the summer and the ground wire then arcs to the loose staple. So the fix is to drive them deeper. I've then seen the wire cut when the pole expands again when the RH increases. This nearly undetectable break then arcs and generates lots of intermittent noise. The same thing happens at the crimp they use to connect the aluminum to the copper; that's a physically weak point that can break and cause the same trouble. This used to be a much worse problem before they replaced thousands of epoxy insulators that crazed in the Arizona sunshine and had 100's of mA of leakage current; a lot of it flowing in these ground wires. They actually had some insulators catch fire from the heating. Regards, Wes N7WS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
You assume wrong. :) Concrete is a conductor, and metal that makes contact with it forms a Ufer ground (that is, a ground electrode). By virtue of having a lot of surface area in contact with the earth, the Ufer ground can have a fairly low impedance to earth. The tower is bonded to that copper and to ground rods that surround the tower. Thus, the total impedance to earth is the parallel combination of all of those electrodes. Again, the fundamental principal is that all grounds MUST be bonded together for lightning safety. In the event of a lightning hit, the potential of all rise together, so it is much less likely that something bad will happen in the building. We say less likely because those bonding conductors have resistance and inductance, so the potential difference won't be zero, but it will be lower than if there were no bonding. 73, Jim Brown K9YC --Original Message Text--- From: Ken Kopp Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 06:47:39 - Hi Jim, I assume the straps in the concrete were an experiment to measure the resistance of concrete and -not- intended to be for lightning grounding. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
Ken, Perhaps I misunderstood your description of the practice. Are you saying that the bare end of this wire is buried in the earth in a coiled concentric circle? That does sound like good practice to the extent that it puts a lot of copper in contact with the earth, but lazy to the extent that the coil adds inductance to the discharge path. Or if you're the accountant for the power company, efficient. 73, Jim K9YC --Original Message Text--- From: Ken Kopp Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 06:43:50 - Coiling the down-the-pole ground wire in a concentric circle on the bottom end of a power pole is the accepted method of achieving ground __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Setting K3 LED Brightness
Ref: K3 Owners Manual Rev D2 Page 52 under Menu Functions, Main Menu: LED BRT Frank - W6NEK - Original Message - From: Roy Morris w4...@carolina.rr.com To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 8:42 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Setting K3 LED Brightness Quite by accident last night I discovered a feature I did not know existed. I tapped MENU and went to LED BRIGHTNESS. I was talking to some friends on the radio and keyed the mic while in this menu. All the LEDs on the front panel lit up and stayed lit until I made a menu change or left the menu. I found the brightness of all these LEDs can be adjusted in this menu. If this is covered in the manual, please excuse me because I didn't read it. I thought it was neat and wanted to share it. Roy Morris W4WFB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] 40 meter Elecraft net
Yep ... lots of jerks out there. Keep in mind, though, that while you might be able to hear all three hams (the guys already in QSO and the jerk that tunes up on top of them, the jerk might not be able to hear either of them. Depending upon the band, he might be too close to them geographically, or have a high local noise level, or have a directional antenna that favors you versus the other guys, or be using a much narrower filter than you are. It happens all the time. 73, Dave AB7E dw wrote: Man, some people can be RUDE! I can't tell you how many times I've found myself listening to a couple of hams in a friendly rag-chew, and someone comes right in on top of them, tunes up and calls CQ. Anyway..when is the Elecraft 40 meter CW net scheduled? Thanks Duane N1BBR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] OT: Power ground related
BlankWoke up in wee hours and realized I'd described my station's ground system incorrectly. I -do-have 13 8' ground rods around the two-acre lot. There are four towers and each has a ground rod. All the rods, the fences, house heat ducts, etc. are all connected together with #8 or #6 CU. There are 120 full-size radials under the 160M tower. All this adds up to a pretty good RF counterpoise -and- electrical ground system. More importantly, the house AC entrance ground rod --is-- connected to the above system. I was focused on the station ground/counterpoise and didn't intend to say it wasn't connected to the power entrance grounding. A poster made reference to ground strap inside a concrete tower base. This should not be done, because a big hit that goes to ground through the concrete is likely to crack or even explode the base. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net or k...@arrl.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 09:20:51 -0400 Peter N. Spotts kc...@arrl.net wrote: snip Many thanks to all! My original question was prompted by an experience I had as a teenager visiting my uncle in the mid 1960s (oops, the gray hairs are showing). I was working in his garage, using a metal-housed electric drill in bare feet on a dry concrete floor. (No cracks about natural selection at work, please!). I got a jolt about 2 volts shy of a hairstyle by Boston Edison! (Although this was in a St. Louis suburb.) So that's what led me to wonder if an anchor bolt embedded in concrete would constitute a sufficient ground. It sure seemed to for that drill! Thanks again for the helpful advice! With best regards, Pete -- Peter N. Spotts -- KC1JB http://www.kc1jb.net (under construction) Email: kc...@arrl.net | Skype: pspotts QRP-ARCI # 4174 | North American QRP CW Club # 2446 Flying Pigs QRP # 1983 | SKCC # 4853 | QCWA #34679 W5JH Black Widow paddle #601 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] LC Back lighting location of new K3 mods
Where would I find the details for the mods that are required for the new firmware? Also, what is the source of the LCD panel back lighting? I hope the answer is LEDs. I like to just let the K3 stay on all day and I'm hoping I'm not running down the back lighting bulbs. If they're LEDs then it probably won't make much difference. tnx 73, Doug -- K0DXV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] LC Back lighting location of new K3 mods
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm Bob NW8L On Tue, Sep 1, 2009 at 11:11 AM, Doug Persond...@northroutt.net wrote: Where would I find the details for the mods that are required for the new firmware? Also, what is the source of the LCD panel back lighting? I hope the answer is LEDs. I like to just let the K3 stay on all day and I'm hoping I'm not running down the back lighting bulbs. If they're LEDs then it probably won't make much difference. tnx 73, Doug -- K0DXV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] LC Back lighting location of new K3 mods
LEDs. 73, Eric Doug Person wrote: Also, what is the source of the LCD panel back lighting? I hope the answer is LEDs. I like to just let the K3 stay on all day and I'm hoping I'm not running down the back lighting bulbs. If they're LEDs then it probably won't make much difference. tnx 73, Doug -- K0DXV _..._ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] test
thank you __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] loaded K2 for sale
Hello all, I am wanting to buy a K3 and need to sell my loaded K2. The serial # is 3644. I have used the rig for receive only as I never finished the transmitter alignment. My ears could not discern a difference in tone. The soldering is professional. The options have never been installed, they are: KSB2 - assembled K160RX - assembled KNB2 - assembled KIO2 - assembled KAF2 - assembled KAT2 - still in kit form all torids wound by The Torid Guy I have a non smoking environment and the rig is in excellent condition. I am asking $1000.00, shipping is FREE to continental US. I can take credit cards (MasterCard, visa or discover) through my company, Penninger Radio ( www.PenningerRadio.com ) please reply off list to char...@penningerradio.com 73 and thanks for the bandwidth. Charles Penninger, KC9DAO ^ ^ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
Good story Pete, and a reminder that it doesn't take too many mA of current to send you flying across the room (or into your grave). Even a bad ground provides plenty of lethal current at mains voltage. When I have a shop setup in a basement, garage or anywhere with a floor like that I make sure the outlets are GFI protected. It's cheap insurance. Over the past 30 years we've moved back to the electrical equipment designs of the 1940's and 50's in which safety is accomplished through insulation rather than through a grounded enclosure. The fact that few modern tools or appliances have 3 wire plugs testifies to this approach. Such equipment is (apparently) very safe. (Safer than many of the old AC/DC radios, etc., of the 40's and 50's - especially after us young Hams unknowingly compromised the insulation by taking a knob off exposing a bare control shaft or leaving insulators out from under the chassis). But the reliance on insulation rather than grounding for safety seems to be bringing us back many unsafely grounded outlets. It's now very common to have even brand new construction, signed off by all the appropriate inspectors, turn up reversed wired outlets and missing grounds. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- snip Many thanks to all! My original question was prompted by an experience I had as a teenager visiting my uncle in the mid 1960s (oops, the gray hairs are showing). I was working in his garage, using a metal-housed electric drill in bare feet on a dry concrete floor. (No cracks about natural selection at work, please!). I got a jolt about 2 volts shy of a hairstyle by Boston Edison! (Although this was in a St. Louis suburb.) So that's what led me to wonder if an anchor bolt embedded in concrete would constitute a sufficient ground. It sure seemed to for that drill! Thanks again for the helpful advice! With best regards, Pete __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wrist strap / mat grounding
Ken Kopp wrote: Mine goes to the station ground buss ... 2 wide CU strap ... that's connected directly to a number (12) of 8' ground rods that are all bonded together with #8 CU wire. There is no connection between this ground system and the power company's entrance ground. Do not do this in the UK. It breaches the electrical codes and can create a significant shock hazard on systems with protective multiple earthing (PME) under fault conditions. All functional grounds must be bonded to mains ground unless you are in an otherwise earth free area. -- David Woolley we do not overly restrict the subject matter on the list, and we encourage postings on a wide range of amateur radio related topics List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
Well, I guess I need some advice here as well. I had not considered the problem of different grounds. I am building a house, now, where the electrical wiring will come in at one end of the house while my radio room is 70 feet away, at the other end. I had planned on a separate grounding system at the radio room. Would it be best to connect the two grounds? If so, how would be the best way to do that? Or, should I have the electrical wiring come in at the same end of the house as the radio room, thus eliminating two separate grounds? Thanks, Tom -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 4:32 PM To: 'Peter N. Spotts'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please Good story Pete, and a reminder that it doesn't take too many mA of current to send you flying across the room (or into your grave). Even a bad ground provides plenty of lethal current at mains voltage. When I have a shop setup in a basement, garage or anywhere with a floor like that I make sure the outlets are GFI protected. It's cheap insurance. Over the past 30 years we've moved back to the electrical equipment designs of the 1940's and 50's in which safety is accomplished through insulation rather than through a grounded enclosure. The fact that few modern tools or appliances have 3 wire plugs testifies to this approach. Such equipment is (apparently) very safe. (Safer than many of the old AC/DC radios, etc., of the 40's and 50's - especially after us young Hams unknowingly compromised the insulation by taking a knob off exposing a bare control shaft or leaving insulators out from under the chassis). But the reliance on insulation rather than grounding for safety seems to be bringing us back many unsafely grounded outlets. It's now very common to have even brand new construction, signed off by all the appropriate inspectors, turn up reversed wired outlets and missing grounds. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- snip Many thanks to all! My original question was prompted by an experience I had as a teenager visiting my uncle in the mid 1960s (oops, the gray hairs are showing). I was working in his garage, using a metal-housed electric drill in bare feet on a dry concrete floor. (No cracks about natural selection at work, please!). I got a jolt about 2 volts shy of a hairstyle by Boston Edison! (Although this was in a St. Louis suburb.) So that's what led me to wonder if an anchor bolt embedded in concrete would constitute a sufficient ground. It sure seemed to for that drill! Thanks again for the helpful advice! With best regards, Pete __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
Rich wrote: trouble call for low voltage we found that both sides measured 120 VAC unloaded at the transformer and at the entrance box. with load it dropped a few volts with a heavy load it dropped about 5 volts. eventfully we discovered that there was a hidden break in the ground wire and the house was getting close to proper voltage with the lousy ground at the bottom of the pole and the house ground rod. Go Figure! This sort of fault condition is exactly why it is important that all grounds be connected together within a building in the UK. Modern urban distribution systems use a system called Protective Multiple Earthing (PME), in which the neutral (I think it was mis-named ground, above) is grounded at multiple points on its path from the substation, but there is no dedicated ground wire back to the substation, nor is there a ground rod per property. In this system, the building electrical ground is connected to the neutral where the cable enters the property. When the sort of fault described above occurs, there can be a significant difference between the potential of the earth around the property and the nearest grounding rod. It may not be enough to directly kill you, but even if not, the shock could precipitate a fall. -- David Woolley we do not overly restrict the subject matter on the list, and we encourage postings on a wide range of amateur radio related topics List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please [thread ending today]
Guys - We're getting a flood of posts on this topic. Let's slow it down a bit and end this thread by the end of today. (0700 UTC) 73, Eric Elecraft List Moderator __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wrist strap / mat grounding
Hi Dave, others You probably missed my correction to my hastily- written posting. The elaborate RF counterpoise and power ground system --is-- connected to the mains ground. They -are bonded together. I'm retired from an electric utility, so I have myself convinced that I know the subject. I just didn't put the right wording into the message. (;-)) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wrist strap / mat grounding
When I was about 8 years old I discovered that there was a few volts AC between the hot and cold taps in my parents house, so I rigged a night-light in the kitchen using a bicycle dynamo bulb. It glowed away for years, mostly dim, but sometimes very bright, until I learned enough about AC power systems to realize how dangerous it was. The hot water cylinder and piping were grounded to the utility ground, and the cold water piping was grounded via the metal water pipe feeding the house, but the hot and cold were isolated by a plastic header tank. We lived right next door to a power company 11kV/230 transformer. By the grace of God, nobody was ever electrocuted in the house! 73 Paul ZL3IN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 Power Output
It's been a long time since I made a post to this group so hope someone can help. My K3/100 which has all the latest firmware installed behaves oddly. When the TX is keyed with the mic the power out only goes to approx 30watts although it is set to 100watts. Then it seems to slowly build when the mic is keyed a few times. Maybe I am missing something or have a parameter set wrong in a menu. I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas. Thanks in advance. Trev GW4IMC -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Power-Output-tp3563445p3563445.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
One final note on connecting grounds. According to NEC the grounding/protective ground (green) wire and the grounded/neutral (white) wire are to be connected only at the main entrance panel. In many cases where there is metal conduit, the conduit is used for the grounding (green) system. To reduce noise sometimes a grounding wire for each outlet is run all the way back to the point where the grounding and grounded systems are bonded together. As I recall, generally these outlets are orange. You can see this in action where there is more than one fuse box in the house. There is a green screw that connects the terminal block for white wires to the box (which is grounded). This screw is not used in any of the sub boxes. David K0LUM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Output
Trev, Sounds like a typical K3, both of mine will react very similar especially if I change bands. I will typically hit the tune button and adjust my power if necessary. Now perhaps if I went through the transmitter calibration it would go away! I still need to do all the mods on my first K3 sn# 1059. Nonetheless I am curious for a response on this one 73 de Bill N4ZI K3's #1059 #2914 --- On Tue, 9/1/09, trev trev.wat...@btinternet.com wrote: From: trev trev.wat...@btinternet.com Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power Output To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 5:33 PM It's been a long time since I made a post to this group so hope someone can help. My K3/100 which has all the latest firmware installed behaves oddly. When the TX is keyed with the mic the power out only goes to approx 30watts although it is set to 100watts. Then it seems to slowly build when the mic is keyed a few times. Maybe I am missing something or have a parameter set wrong in a menu. I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas. Thanks in advance. Trev GW4IMC -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Power-Output-tp3563445p3563445.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
I've seen enough. There is no purpose in having a station ground. In fact it can be dangerous to have a ground system just for the station and one for the electrical entrance. Think of the potential difference between those two systems when lightning tickles one of them. Often the ground for the ham shack is far better than the ground on your electrical panel. Guess where the big surge is going to flow...Through your house then righ through your ham equipment! After all, your ham gear is plugged into the AC outlet. This connects the two ground systems togetherNot good! Bonding all the ham gear together is a great idea but don't run it to a separate ground rod. It serves no purpose. If you think this helps make your signal stronger then think again...Sure a nice radial system will help that vertical or random wire antenna BUT be sure you unhook it from your equipment during a thunderstorm. All the ground rods in the world won't protect your equipment from a strike and having it grounded to a ground system AND to the AC mains is begging for trouble. As for grounding the antenna...That's a different matter. The antennas should indeed be grounded when not in use AND disconnected from the station...Totally. In fact, your ham gear should be connected to NOTHING during a thunderstorm. If you have a big ground wire coming in from outside to your station, put a large knife switch in series with it and open the switch when the station is not in use. Picture this.Lighting hits power line, goes to electrical panel, sees wimpy old rusty ground rod and says shucks there might be something better here, travels through your AC house wiring, gets to ham shack, sees your super duper ground system with 2 wide copper and 8,000 ground rods and says whoopeee!!!,,,Goes to AC power cord on DC power supply, then to DC lead from your new K3through K3 to ground post on back of K3to your wonderful ground system and frys everything along the way. No more K3! Same goes for your computer and everything else hooked to that nice ground. It's all toast. The same goes for lightning hitting your antennaEven if you disconnect the antenna with a coax switch, the shield is still connected right on through to your equipment and then to your ground system. Zapno more rig Unhook the antenna and ground itDon't hook the ground to the rig. Now I can hear someone saying Heywithout a station ground you'll have RFI all over the place. Well maybe so but don't blame it on a lack of ground rodsUsually the station's ground wire is some multiple of a wavelength and makes a very poor RF ground anyway. If a ground system happens to cure your RFI problems it's probably because it just happened to resonate near your operating frequency. What you should do is try to maintain a balanced antenna system and avoid common mode currents. Try using a line-isolator in series with your coax etc etc. Sorry I used so many words to say something so simple! Steve N4LQ n...@carolina.rr.com - Original Message - From: NG3V n...@comcast.net To: 'Ron D'Eau Claire' r...@cobi.biz; 'Peter N. Spotts' kc...@arrl.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 5:01 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please Well, I guess I need some advice here as well. I had not considered the problem of different grounds. I am building a house, now, where the electrical wiring will come in at one end of the house while my radio room is 70 feet away, at the other end. I had planned on a separate grounding system at the radio room. Would it be best to connect the two grounds? If so, how would be the best way to do that? Or, should I have the electrical wiring come in at the same end of the house as the radio room, thus eliminating two separate grounds? Thanks, Tom -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 4:32 PM To: 'Peter N. Spotts'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please Good story Pete, and a reminder that it doesn't take too many mA of current to send you flying across the room (or into your grave). Even a bad ground provides plenty of lethal current at mains voltage. When I have a shop setup in a basement, garage or anywhere with a floor like that I make sure the outlets are GFI protected. It's cheap insurance. Over the past 30 years we've moved back to the electrical equipment designs of the 1940's and 50's in which safety is accomplished through insulation rather than through a grounded enclosure. The fact that few modern tools or appliances have 3 wire plugs testifies to this approach. Such equipment is (apparently) very safe. (Safer than many of the old AC/DC radios, etc., of the 40's and 50's -
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
David, As a correction, all conduits are to have a green grounding conductor included per NEC. This was changed many years back in thee NEC because it was found that conduit may not always have a good ground all the way back to panel due to loose screws corrosion etc. 73 de Bill N4ZI K3's #1059 #2914 --- On Tue, 9/1/09, David Christ radio...@mchsi.com wrote: From: David Christ radio...@mchsi.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 5:38 PM One final note on connecting grounds. According to NEC the grounding/protective ground (green) wire and the grounded/neutral (white) wire are to be connected only at the main entrance panel. In many cases where there is metal conduit, the conduit is used for the grounding (green) system. To reduce noise sometimes a grounding wire for each outlet is run all the way back to the point where the grounding and grounded systems are bonded together. As I recall, generally these outlets are orange. You can see this in action where there is more than one fuse box in the house. There is a green screw that connects the terminal block for white wires to the box (which is grounded). This screw is not used in any of the sub boxes. David K0LUM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wrist strap / mat grounding
May I please put an end to this off topic subject??? While all have presented various points and some good ones, they beg the original point that should be made about wrist straps and use during construction of static sensitive devices. The ONLY point of concern is that the assembly surface where the parts are located and the person making contact with any components are at the same static potential. A resistive conductive surface bench and a wrist strap electrically connected to it will present to any component the same static potential and the chance of component damage is reduced to near zero. Whether the bench is connected to earth ground is not as important as a good static compliant conductive path from the wrist strap the the bench where assembly work will be done. AND yes, the testing of the wrist strap to the conductive surface needs to be done regularly to ensure proper operation. Part of ISO protocol. Mel, K6KBE --- On Tue, 9/1/09, Paul ZL3IN ps030...@varion.co.nz wrote: From: Paul ZL3IN ps030...@varion.co.nz Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Wrist strap / mat grounding To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Tuesday, September 1, 2009, 3:33 PM When I was about 8 years old I discovered that there was a few volts AC between the hot and cold taps in my parents house, so I rigged a night-light in the kitchen using a bicycle dynamo bulb. It glowed away for years, mostly dim, but sometimes very bright, until I learned enough about AC power systems to realize how dangerous it was. The hot water cylinder and piping were grounded to the utility ground, and the cold water piping was grounded via the metal water pipe feeding the house, but the hot and cold were isolated by a plastic header tank. We lived right next door to a power company 11kV/230 transformer. By the grace of God, nobody was ever electrocuted in the house! 73 Paul ZL3IN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] I need some grounding-strap guidance, if'n you please
Tom, It is not only *best* to connect the two grounds, it is *required* by electrical code. If a knowledgeable electrical inspector should notice the two unconnected grounds, he should properly fail the inspection. I would recommend a perimeter copper ground wire (#6 or preferably #4) all around the building - that is not hard to do in new construction. Put the wire 2 to 3 feet down and one to two feet away from the foundation before the foundation is backfilled (hold the wire temporarily in place with 6 inch long wire staples). In addition to this wire, drive a ground rod (drive it, do not bury it) at each corner or place where the wire must make a significant turn - lightning likes to follow a straight path, so dissipate a bit of it in the ground rod when the wire makes a turn. The principle is that a lightning surge traveling through the earth will tend to follow the wire rather than punching a hole through the foundation. At whatever point along the path where the electrical mains ground rod is placed, you can connect your perimeter wire to it. Incidently, the best bonding of ground rods and grounding wires is a CAD-WELD system and the whole thing can be below ground out of the way of the lawn mower. I have chosen to clamp mine, and the tops of the ground rods are about 6 inches high, but I can periodically check all the clamps for tightness. I placed a loop of wire through the clamps, so the perimeter loop is continuous. 73, Don W3FPR NG3V wrote: Well, I guess I need some advice here as well. I had not considered the problem of different grounds. I am building a house, now, where the electrical wiring will come in at one end of the house while my radio room is 70 feet away, at the other end. I had planned on a separate grounding system at the radio room. Would it be best to connect the two grounds? If so, how would be the best way to do that? Or, should I have the electrical wiring come in at the same end of the house as the radio room, thus eliminating two separate grounds? Thanks, Tom __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] The 40M K3 net
Yes Dave you might be right,but it also happens that I have been involved in that specific case where I have been carrying a QSO with someone in spanish and suddenly a guy call cq in english over us without even asking if the freq was busy,that is very mean,and is not that he didn't hear us because then I answered his cq pretending I was not upset and guess what,he replys and give me a 20db over S9 report,so then what? he was listening to us quite clear and when I asked him why he decided to call cq over us,his stupid answer was that he thought we were in Mexico,he not even didn't wait till we ID ouself in english to know we were in the states,yes the 40M is FULL OF LIDS !!! AD4C The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. -- Albert Einstein __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Output
All bets are off if you have not performed the K3 TX calibration. That is a required step after building the K3. 73,Eric WA6HHQ Bill Maddock wrote: Trev, Sounds like a typical K3, both of mine will react very similar especially if I change bands. I will typically hit the tune button and adjust my power if necessary. Now perhaps if I went through the transmitter calibration it would go away! I still need to do all the mods on my first K3 sn# 1059. Nonetheless I am curious for a response on this one 73 de Bill N4ZI K3's #1059 #2914 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Wrist strap / mat grounding [Topic ending today]
(Note added for this parallel topic.) Guys - We're getting a flood of posts on this topic. Let's slow it down a bit and end this thread totally by the end of today. (0700 UTC) 73, Eric Elecraft List Moderator __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] The 40M K3 net
guys - Let's end this thread. 73, Eric Elecraft List Moderator __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 DISPLAY
My display is blank, it is on but has no information showing. Is there a reset I can try to bring it back? Bill N8WS -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-DISPLAY-tp3563842p3563842.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] - Very Low Output on 160m
Last weekend I put up a wire antenna consisting of approx 120 feet of wire in some trees connected to an SGC 237 auto tuner. Ground for the moment consists of two 30 ft wires lying on the grass (this weekend's project). The antenna works very well on all bands and for the first time I was able to try using 160m. When I hit Tune on the K2 the needle on my wattmeter barely moves and the K2 display says P 0.2 no matter what the setting of the POWER control is. Thinking it might be the antenna I switched to a dummy load and tried again. This time the wattmeter needle indicated approx 0.5 watts and the K2 display indicated P 0.5 at every POWER control setting. Receive on 160 is very good. 80m works fine on transmit and receive. I get a good 14 to 15 watts out on 80. I know 80 and 160 share some components so I thought I'd check. I'm wondering if I should do the 160 Meter Alignment in the Operating Manual, but how likely is it that L3 and L4 could be adjusted to give good output on 80m and zip on 160m? Any ideas would be gratefully received. Thanks and 73, Ken Alexander VE3HLS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Output
Hi Trev, Since the beginning, i always get the same behavior with my K3 #1212 (factory build). I work essentially with JT65A mode; as this mode is a single tone mode, i've set the modulation level just before full ALC and power to 50W (for DX only...). At the beginning of a JT65A transmit sequence, the power start at ~ 25W and go up to ~ 48W in 3 to 5 sec. If the PA temperature is at ~ 40 to 46°C, the power variation is lower and power output start at ~40W; i'm certainly wrong, but i've always thought that this was related to PA temp and, as i never get an output power higher then selected, this was not a problem in my case. What is a problem for me is the transmit audio response; i've tried to adjust XTAL filter without success; TX EQU compensation too. As my VFO working frequency is always set to the JT65A preferred frequency, it's the audio frequency who defines the actual output spectrum; for some audio values, i get well over 3dB output power variations between some JT65A instantaneous frequencies; for example, with a 45W max power, for somes frequencies, level go under 20W; i work with this since more then one year and i'm always hoping that the AGC of my correspondent can handle a little ~3dB RF input variation (the QSB is generally higher...) Sorry for this time and bandwidth consuming message. 73 QRO de Rudolf, hb9ari trev wrote: It's been a long time since I made a post to this group so hope someone can help. My K3/100 which has all the latest firmware installed behaves oddly. When the TX is keyed with the mic the power out only goes to approx 30watts although it is set to 100watts. Then it seems to slowly build when the mic is keyed a few times. Maybe I am missing something or have a parameter set wrong in a menu. I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas. Thanks in advance. Trev GW4IMC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
