Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-04 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Tom Hammond-2 wrote:
 
 The TIP  GND of the K3 PLUG connects to the LEFT spkr, and the RING  GND
 connect to the RIGHT spkr. But the RINGs on BOTH of the INPUT jacks are
 not
 connected to anything.
 
 
Tom et al.

You are right. I was only thinking of how to avoid the hassle of threading
the speakers through the cables. To use the ready-made adapter you'd also
have to snip the mono plugs off the speaker cables and replace them with
stereo plugs, one wired to the tip and the other the ring.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] [MM] W2 Wattmeter

2010-01-04 Thread KM4VX

Thank you for the advice and wisdom always found on this Reflector. We can
each draw our own conclusions. The K-2 built in meter is probably as
accurate as the W2 at 5 watts, and the more expensive stand  alone units
have little to offer me operating QRP. Those flashing lights are cool on
many of the latest meters, but the absence of increased accuracy over what
comes with the radio anyway is more important. The expertise available on
this Reflector is unmatched in the hobby.


KM4VX wrote:
 
 W2 WATTMETER I was doing some research and considering buying the Elecraft
 W2 for use with my 2 K-2s and read the very negative reviews of the W2's
 accuracy on E-Ham. I wonder if anyone would care to refute the E-HAM
 reviews or offer positive comments about the W2's accuracy. At this point
 I would have to choose the AUTEK or OAK HILLS meters over the W2.
 Considering the cost of the W2 and Elecraft's attention to quality I would
 expect a far more accurate meter than the reviews would indicate. Many
 thanks.
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 for sale

2010-01-04 Thread Gilbert Cross
Gilbert Cross wrote:
 Gilbert Cross wrote:
   K2   s/n 3346

   Has the following options:

   KIO2
   KAT2
   KSB2
   K160RX
   KNB2
   KAF2
   MH2
   CW tuning indicator
   T/R relay driver switching is with the same mosfet used in 
 the K3

   Frequency calibration is excellent
   Filters are set up using Spectrogram and with the wife 
 monitoring through headphones she says I sound natural
   Very nice radio. Of course comes with all manuals and cables 
 Ready to operate

   Asking$900.00
   If interested please contact me off list.

 Thank youGilK8EAG


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[Elecraft] K2 Toroid Wire Coating

2010-01-04 Thread FlashandCo
For my first several toroid windings, I have used a Bic lighter flame to  
burn off the coating on the wire tails, followed by a sanding with the  
supplied P180 sandpaper.  I noticed it can burn up the wire fast and one of  
them 
lost the coating up to the core.  Should I recoat, especially  where the 
lead may touch the wound toroid, like the horizontal RFC11?  What  is a 
suitable recoat for the wire?  Or am I being too picky?
 
Bob, KE5WZK 
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Re: [Elecraft] [HAM] Hi Q versus Vertical

2010-01-04 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Hi Frank,

As mentioned elsewhere, radials are key to good performance. Verticals will
work, and sometimes not badly either, with less than optimum radials. The
key is high density under the feed point. Flashing may be a good option, a
metal roof would be great.

That being said, I know a lot of folks who love the SteppIr vertical. It
probably is a good antenna for 40-6. Any base fed vertical will be less
efficient than one with a top hat or inductor, at least half way up
(preferably higher).

Probably the best question is what do you expect the antenna to do? Be
competitive in pileups? Work tons of DX? Local ragchewing? Just CW or SSB or
both? The answers will help you focus on a specific antenna better.

For the money a Hustler 6 BTV Antenna is a good place to start. It's a bit
narrow on 80/75, but you can find out how well a vertical will work for you,
then consider something like a SteppIr.

That's assuming you don't want to build your own, which can be virtually
free if you're a decent scrounger.

73,
Julius


Frank MacDonell wrote:
 
 I am looking for an antenna to work 6 thru 80 meters in a condo
 development. I presently own a k3/10.
 
 Stealth is a very strong consideration. It seems that a SteppIR
 Vertical or Hi Q antenna would make sense. Does anyone have experience
 with these two antennas for this type of application? Thanks you for
 your time and expertise.
 
 -- 
 Frank KD8FIP
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Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 | KXAT1 ATU questions

2010-01-04 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Daniel,

A half wave end fed at 40 meters will have extraordinarily high impedance.
Shorten it and you find the KX1 will tune.  The suggestion to use an antenna
analyzer may be a very good option as well.  Then you will know.  There
isn't enough tuning range in the tiny KX1 auto tuner.  If you look through
the archives, you will find some good suggestions from Wayne.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Daniel Paul Perez
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 8:53 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: chesapeake1...@post.harvard.edu
Subject: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 | KXAT1 ATU questions

My KX-1 has KXB3080, KXAT1, KXPD1 options.  I am having trials and 
tribulations with the KXAT1 tuning my KX-1.

My configuration was Cobra Senior Ultralight up 60-66' at one end 45-50' 
at the other with center up about 55-60' | 81 feet of 450 ohm ladder 
line runs that runs about 1' foot through a casement window | Balun 
Designs 4:1 4113t current balun | 3' coax with 239 - 239 connectors 
[703+] OR an amphenol 239/BNC adapter [KX-1].

In this config my Icom 703Plus tuned all bands and forward power was a 
bit diminished.  The Elecraft KX-1 would not tune 40M only.  KX1 is 
getting respectable power and swr on 80, 30 and 20 and 40 will throw a 
high power value and r9.9.

Getting some advice from this reflector (Thanks to Dale - WC7S in WY) 
and the antenna manufacturer I then switched out the 3 foot coax with a 
25 foot coax between the balun and transceiver.

In this config my Icom 703Plus tunes all bands at near SWR 1.0 and 
forward power is exactly at what is set.  The 703Plus works like a champ 
and even better in this config.  Now the Elecraft KX1 has high SWR r9.9 
on 80, 40, 30 and reads between r3-r5?? on 20M with respectable power 
levels on all bands.  I would have thought the KX1 to perform better as 
well?  Now the 703 is perfect and the KX1 is down on all 4 bands?

Could someone help me understand why this might now be?

I realize the KX1 tuner is smaller capacity than the Icom internal tuner 
- but this antenna configuration is quite respectable.  I read many 
anecdotes of the sorts of I threw a wire up in a tree with my KX1 and 
it tunes and works lots and lots of countries.  This isn't exactly 
throwing a wire in a tree but a fairly standard antenna setup.  Is there 
not enough overall power from the KX1?

I put a call into Elecraft before/at the holiday and they are getting an 
answer for me on my previous question as to how to get the KX1 to send a 
continuous wave when the KXAT1 is in bypass for the external tuner.  It 
appears to me that it sends dits or dahs when ATU is set to external 
tuner ATU == CAL.  I would try to study the situation more with the THP 
HC200-AT autotuner but I'm unclear at the moment what the theory/design 
is with the KXAT1 in bypass mode.

I thank you for your advice and thoughts in advance.

Dan
Ad1p


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Re: [Elecraft] [HAM] Hi Q versus Vertical

2010-01-04 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

Have to say I like what you did Dunc!

Elegant and sounds like it's effective to boot!

73,
Julius


Dunc Carter - W5DC wrote:
 
 See:
 
 http://vibrotek.com/w5dc/w5dcant.html
 
 It's not exactly what you asked for but it might give you some useful 
 ideas.  The WARC bands and 80 meters are not  shown in these early 
 pictures.  The upper half of 80 meters is a wire that's parallel to the 
 wire until it reaches the pole where it then goes up and over the 
 townhouse to a short fiberglass pole mounted in a vent pipe and then 
 down toward an enclosed patio.  The wire is bare, stranded, #26 copper 
 clad steel and seems to survive well ( winds to 80 mph so fan plus 
 several snow storms up to 2 feet) as long as you don't kink the wire 
 during assembly.  The lower half of the 80 meter wire is parallel to the 
 40 wire and includes a coil under the deck at it's midpoint.  It's been 
 good for 112 dxcc entities since summer; best/longest distance on 80 so 
 far is DS1REE.
 
 Dunc, W5DC
 
 Frank MacDonell wrote:
 I am looking for an antenna to work 6 thru 80 meters in a condo
 development. I presently own a k3/10.

 Stealth is a very strong consideration. It seems that a SteppIR
 Vertical or Hi Q antenna would make sense. Does anyone have experience
 with these two antennas for this type of application? Thanks you for
 your time and expertise.

   
 
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-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Must be good

2010-01-04 Thread Gary D Krause
That's one of the reasons I haven't ordered a K3 yet.  I'm having fun with the 
K2 and it's simple to operate.  Perhaps I will end up with the K3 at some 
future date but, for right now, I'm satisfied with the K2.  Plus, I had the 
satisfaction of building it myself.  Yes, I know that you can also build the 
K3 but, it isn't the same.  You know what I mean?

Gary, N7HTS


On Sat, 2 Jan 2010 11:47:08 -0800
  Larry Dodson larry...@googlemail.com wrote:
 With so few items about the K2 appearing, it must show how stable the K2 is.
 Larry (G0IKE) K2 2424
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Toroid Wire Coating

2010-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

You are being too picky - the cores are not conductive.  The only thing 
to be careful of is shorted turns.  I normally tin the leads all the way 
up to the core unless there is a reason to leave an insulated lead (as 
there is on the KXB3080 LPF toroid L2).

If you are using a flame, be careful you do not overheat the copper, and 
often the residue from a flame will leave a deposit that is difficult to 
remove and the solder will not adhere to it - so use only enough heat to 
melt the insulation and no more (do not stick the wire directly into the 
blue part of the flame).

Try the solder blob method, it is easier and more clean - use a wide tip 
on the iron so it will hold a reasonable blob or solder and turn the 
iron temperature up to 800 deg F or more (lower temperatures can lead to 
frustration and long times before the lead is tinned).

73,
Don W3FPR

flashan...@aol.com wrote:
 For my first several toroid windings, I have used a Bic lighter flame to  
 burn off the coating on the wire tails, followed by a sanding with the  
 supplied P180 sandpaper.  I noticed it can burn up the wire fast and one of  
 them 
 lost the coating up to the core.  Should I recoat, especially  where the 
 lead may touch the wound toroid, like the horizontal RFC11?  What  is a 
 suitable recoat for the wire?  Or am I being too picky?
  
   

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[Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Tom Meier
Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting a
very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for both
sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true that
they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
without access to any tech support.

Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his facts
straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Ian Maude
No Tech support?  When did this happen? :)

73 Ian

-- 
Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC  HB9DRV-9 DX Clusters
Member RSGB, GQRP 9838, FISTS 14077 | K3 #455
http://www.amateurradiotraining.org

2010/1/4 Tom Meier tomk...@gmail.com

 Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting
 a
 very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
 business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for
 both
 sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
 exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true
 that
 they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
 without access to any tech support.

 Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his facts
 straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
 country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

 73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

If he buys direct from Elecraft, he will have Tech Support direct from 
Elecraft, so I would guess he does not know his facts.

He may not have access to tech support from the Japanese distributor, 
but that is a different statement.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Meier wrote:
 Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting a
 very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
 business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for both
 sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
 exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true that
 they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
 without access to any tech support.

 Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his facts
 straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
 country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

 73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
   

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 RX Equaliser SW App?

2010-01-04 Thread GM0ELP

Hi Paul,

The bandwidth and Notch should be done at the IF stage not the AF stage, I 
think everyone knows this. There has never been a question of where it is 
better to taylor response. Of course it's better to do these things at the IF 
stage.

I am suggesting a 'cumulative' IF and AF response 'combined'. I could manually 
taylor (approximate) any required AF response using CAT commands and the 
available 8 audio bands and gain/attenuation levels. Why wouldn't software be 
able to do that? It's not a question of how steep the slopes are, its a matter 
of using an AF feature in the K3 to augment the IF performance.

If there was a software tool available to approximately track AF to IF response 
would you try it? I would, and I think it is possible. Can you give me a reason 
why it isn't possible?

Doug GM0ELP


  - Original Message - 
  From: pd0psb [via Elecraft] 
  To: GM0ELP 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 7:28 PM
  Subject: Re: K3 RX Equaliser SW App?


  Hi Doug, 

  Some time ago Wayne and Lyle explained that the RX EQ is not meant as an 
extra selectivity tool. 
  It's there to do the last tailoring of passpand response, make up for room 
acoustics or speaker/hp response. The RX EQ modifies the IF passband and is not 
a seperate post-detector AF filter. 

  Notch/HPF/LPF/etc can better (and much steeper) be done with bandwidth and 
notch controls. 

  73' 
  Paul 
  PD0PSB 




GM0ELP wrote:
Hi All, 
Does anyone know of a software application for controlling the K3 rx 
equaliser to specifically create easily adjustable audio filtering toys? 

Ideally I would like something that replaces the manual manipulation of 
individual graphic equaliser sliders with more automated/general filter 
creation controls  i.e. lpf/hpf(buttons), cuf-off freq (text entry box), 
peak/notch (buttons), magnitude and sweep (sliders). 

I don't have a specific use in mind, other than to be able to use the rx 
equaliser whilst operating. 

I have in the past created cat control sequencies for various filter 
functions and saved them individually as macros, but useabilty was poor. 

Any ideas/suggestions welcome. 



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 RX Equaliser SW App?

2010-01-04 Thread GM0ELP


Hi Paul,

Yes, I would also like to see firmware RX EQ by mode, but I've been told
it's a long way down the Elecraft to-do list due to complexity. However a
software approach opens new possibilities limited only by the CAT port
speed.

By AF I mean the 50,100,200,400,800,1600,2400,3200Hz bands in the RX EQ
menu. I would like software to remove the manual drudgery  (speed up
operation) of me having to manipulate an 8 band graphic equaliser for common
AF responses i.e. peak and notch check boxes and a sliders for width, ref
level, magnitude and frequency.

I suppose the usefulness of any such software calls into question the
usefulness of the RX Equaliser in general.

Doug
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 RX Equaliser SW App?

2010-01-04 Thread GM0ELP

Hi Paul,
The rest of my post gave reasons why K3-EZ isn't the right solution for me, 
but thanks for the suggestion. In reading the content of the K3-EZ link you 
gave, it says that K3-EZ doesn't work with LP-Bridge. This is also a bit of a 
show stopper for me as my logging and pan adapter software are normally running 
on my PC.

Doug
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul - WW2PT [via Elecraft] 
  To: GM0ELP 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 10:26 PM
  Subject: Re: K3 RX Equaliser SW App?


  I use K3-EZ to do this sort of thing: 

  http://home.roadrunner.com/~n2bc/SW.htm

  73, 
  Paul WW2PT 



GM0ELP wrote:
Hi All, 
Does anyone know of a software application for controlling the K3 rx 
equaliser to specifically create easily adjustable audio filtering toys? 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Toroid Wire Coating

2010-01-04 Thread Byron Servies
On Jan 4, 2010, at 8:23 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Try the solder blob method, it is easier and more clean

I recently completed K1 #2799 and wound the 23 toroids myself. I found the 
videos below from Ron to be exceptionally helpful and after a couple of trial 
runs with wire not yet wound on to a toroid, doing the real thing was easy. 
This is the one time I used a panavise in my build: to hold wound toroids 
gently while I tinned the leads.

My toroids do not have the outer wires flat against the core as I see in most 
pictures, even though I pulled rather hard on the wires as I wound them, but 
they all seem to work well.  I may try pressing them down in future, if only 
for improved asthetics.  The only problem I found was that afterwards I needed 
to very carefully re-tin my soldering iron tip to get rid of residue. I think I 
may use a wider tip just for toroid winding next time.

There was also great personal satisfaction in understanding how to adjust the 
VFO range to be more suitable for my general license, and then adjusting the 
winding spacing with a pick (using the built-in frequency counter!) to the 
range I wanted.  This is why I chose to build a kit.

Good luck,

Byron KI6NUL

On Nov 11, 2009, at 8:32 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 It's really very easy to strip enameled wire using a 700F soldering station
 with no special tips. 
 
 They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Here's a video that's worth a
 thousand pictures ;-)
 
 http://emtech.steadynet.com/rm/tinning_200_l.ram
 
 
 Or, if you're using a dialup this will run better (with a lower image
 quality). 
 
 http://emtech.steadynet.com/rm/tinning_56_l.ram


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[Elecraft] Arrived of my new K3 SN 3756.

2010-01-04 Thread David Quental
Hello all,

I hope all a very nice happy new year.

Just to inform you that my new K3 SN 3756 arrived home safely. I will
assemble it next April so another reason (first is that I am missing my
family a lot) to let time going quickly until mid April :) :) .

Best 73 to all and a nice 2010 to everybody.

T6AG
David Quental

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 RX Equaliser SW App?

2010-01-04 Thread Mike
Doug,

I didn't see the start of this thread, so I'm not sure what you're 
seeking, but have a look at K3_EZ at:
http://home.roadrunner.com/~n2bc/SW.htm

All sorts of things you can set with it, including the equalizeers.

73, Mike NF4L

GM0ELP wrote:
 Hi Paul,

 Yes, I would also like to see firmware RX EQ by mode, but I've been told
 it's a long way down the Elecraft to-do list due to complexity. However a
 software approach opens new possibilities limited only by the CAT port
 speed.

 By AF I mean the 50,100,200,400,800,1600,2400,3200Hz bands in the RX EQ
 menu. I would like software to remove the manual drudgery  (speed up
 operation) of me having to manipulate an 8 band graphic equaliser for common
 AF responses i.e. peak and notch check boxes and a sliders for width, ref
 level, magnitude and frequency.

 I suppose the usefulness of any such software calls into question the
 usefulness of the RX Equaliser in general.

 Doug
   


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[Elecraft] W1 software

2010-01-04 Thread K5WA
I finally got a chance to download and try the W1 software.  I could not get
it to recognize the attached W2.  The W2 Configuration utility recognizes
the W2 just fine.  I released the port when closing down the W2 Utility and
then made sure the port speed was correct before launching the W1 software.
Still no connection.  Is there something else I needed to do?

 

Thanks,

Bob K5WA

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Re: [Elecraft] [MM] W2 Wattmeter

2010-01-04 Thread Richard Squire - HB9ANM

The W2 does exactly what it is supposed to do. And it does it pretty well.
Assembly went smoothly. The problem IMHO is that it was developed by people
who know a thing or two about power measurement, accuracy, resolution,
precision and the like. For people who may not always be familiar with such
matters... or are just accustomed to needle meters.
With the W2 Utility and/or the W2 PC program, it is quite easy (and for some
people maybe comforting) to adjust the W2 to match the 5+% error of your
BIRD which is by no means supposed to be a standard (even if recently
calibrated), hi...
73 Richard - HB9ANM 

KM4VX wrote:
 
 W2 WATTMETER I was doing some research and considering buying the Elecraft
 W2 for use with my 2 K-2s and read the very negative reviews of the W2's
 accuracy on E-Ham. I wonder if anyone would care to refute the E-HAM
 reviews or offer positive comments about the W2's accuracy. At this point
 I would have to choose the AUTEK or OAK HILLS meters over the W2.
 Considering the cost of the W2 and Elecraft's attention to quality I would
 expect a far more accurate meter than the reviews would indicate. Many
 thanks.
 


-
Richard - HB9ANM
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/W2-Wattmeter-tp4242517p4251054.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Fumiaki Okushi
Hi everyone, this is my first post.

I also had a Japanese ham (in Japan) tell me the same story.
I found on the order page on the Elecraft site the following line:

Note:  All Japan orders (except expatriate orders) must be placed through our 
distributor: EDC

This sounds to me like if you're Japanese living in Japan and ordering from 
Japan, you have to order through EDC.

If you go to the EDC site today, the price for the K3/10 kit is listed as 
268600 yen,
which at today's exchange rate is approx $2900.

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV


Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Tom,
 
 If he buys direct from Elecraft, he will have Tech Support direct from 
 Elecraft, so I would guess he does not know his facts.
 
 He may not have access to tech support from the Japanese distributor, 
 but that is a different statement.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Tom Meier wrote:
 Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting a
 very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
 business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for both
 sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
 exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true that
 they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
 without access to any tech support.

 Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his facts
 straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
 country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

 73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
   

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 software

2010-01-04 Thread David Fleming
Hi Bob,

You should be using the W2 interface software. Not W1. You can find it here:

http://www.elecraft.com/software/W2/elecraft_w2_software.htm

Regards and 73,

David, W4SMT

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Duncan Carter
Unless the situation has changed in Japan, it's customary or perhaps 
required to use a import/export company/agent for sales in Japan.  Some 
countries make it extremely difficult for individuals to import or 
export.  Although my company doesn't do any business in Japan, we do 
business in other countries where this situation applies.

Dunc, W5DC

Fumiaki Okushi wrote:
 Hi everyone, this is my first post.

 I also had a Japanese ham (in Japan) tell me the same story.
 I found on the order page on the Elecraft site the following line:

 Note:  All Japan orders (except expatriate orders) must be placed through 
 our distributor: EDC

 This sounds to me like if you're Japanese living in Japan and ordering from 
 Japan, you have to order through EDC.

 If you go to the EDC site today, the price for the K3/10 kit is listed as 
 268600 yen,
 which at today's exchange rate is approx $2900.

 Regards,
 Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV


 Don Wilhelm wrote:
   
 Tom,

 If he buys direct from Elecraft, he will have Tech Support direct from 
 Elecraft, so I would guess he does not know his facts.

 He may not have access to tech support from the Japanese distributor, 
 but that is a different statement.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Tom Meier wrote:
 
 Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting a
 very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
 business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for both
 sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
 exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true that
 they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
 without access to any tech support.

 Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his facts
 straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
 country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

 73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
   

   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-04 Thread DL5OCD

Hello Dick,

if i don`t get wrong, Wayne mentioned a new transverter module for the K3
wich offers something for the
lowfers a few weeks ago. Stay tuned !

73
Michael


PA3CW wrote:
 
 Hello k3 Nabblers,
 
 I was happy  surprized that now in The Netherlands we are also allowed to
 use 501 - 504 kHz in an experimental phase. As ex Radio Officer it has
 been around 25 years ago since my last transmission in this band!  I was
 happy to discover that my K3 is very ok for receive on 500 kHz.   For
 transmitting the 0,5 mW on the transperter output needs some work.  We are
 allowed here to transmit with 5 W  EIRP so i  think i can use some output
 power in order to radiate this amount of power in a relatively short
 antenna.  Who has made an amplifier for 500 kHz including ant switching
 circuit?  I am very interested in a design that i can copy and build
 myself.  Maybe also the team of Elecraft is working on something, however
 seen how busy they are with other things i dont think this has priority. 
 Who can tell me their experience with the K3 on 500?
 
 Many thanks and a wonderful 2010
 Dick PA3CW
 
 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-on-500-kHz-tp4245663p4251212.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-04 Thread Wayne Burdick
What I meant was that you *could* make a transverter for these bands  
and interface it to the K3 via KXV3 module. We don't have plans to  
offer one ourselves.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Jan 4, 2010, at 10:03 AM, DL5OCD wrote:


 Hello Dick,

 if i don`t get wrong, Wayne mentioned a new transverter module for  
 the K3
 wich offers something for the
 lowfers a few weeks ago. Stay tuned !

 73
 Michael


 PA3CW wrote:

 Hello k3 Nabblers,

 I was happy  surprized that now in The Netherlands we are also  
 allowed to
 use 501 - 504 kHz in an experimental phase. As ex Radio Officer it  
 has
 been around 25 years ago since my last transmission in this band!   
 I was
 happy to discover that my K3 is very ok for receive on 500 kHz.   For
 transmitting the 0,5 mW on the transperter output needs some work.   
 We are
 allowed here to transmit with 5 W  EIRP so i  think i can use some  
 output
 power in order to radiate this amount of power in a relatively short
 antenna.  Who has made an amplifier for 500 kHz including ant  
 switching
 circuit?  I am very interested in a design that i can copy and build
 myself.  Maybe also the team of Elecraft is working on something,  
 however
 seen how busy they are with other things i dont think this has  
 priority.
 Who can tell me their experience with the K3 on 500?

 Many thanks and a wonderful 2010
 Dick PA3CW



 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/K3-on-500-kHz-tp4245663p4251212.html
 Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Wes Stewart
Sounds like Tokyo Hy-Power in reverse.  I now get to pay dealer markup and 
sales tax so my L4-B will stay in service.

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Tom Meier tomk...@gmail.com wrote:

From: Tom Meier tomk...@gmail.com
Subject: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 9:30 AM

Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting a
very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for both
sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true that
they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
without access to any tech support.

Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his facts
straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

73 de Tom (K7ZZ)




  
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Re: [Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you

2010-01-04 Thread Conway Yee
W1HYV writes:
I have built very close to 300 K2's to date.

Given that the current serial numbers are nearing 7000, having built 300
is on the order of 3-6% of the total constructed!  If a SINGLE person is
building that many and there are other people building for other hams, how
many people have actually build their own K2?  Are commercial builders
responsible for more K2's than someone who builds 1-4 for themselves?

For me the MAJOR attractions of the K2 is the ability to build your own
modern HF rig (albeit 10 year old technology as someone alluded to in
another thread), something that hasn't been seen since the days of
Heathkit.

Are most K2 users people who buy it prebuilt?

tnx.
Conway Yee, N2JWQ

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Re: [Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you

2010-01-04 Thread Ken Wagner K3IU
I don't know about most but I built 12 K2s beginning in early 2000 and 
sold 11. Still have #5413.
73, Ken K3IU
~
On 1/4/2010 1:39 PM, Conway Yee wrote:
 W1HYV writes:
 Are most K2 users people who buy it prebuilt?

 tnx.
 Conway Yee, N2JWQ

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Fumiaki Okushi
From: Duncan Carter d...@vibrotek.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 2010 10:59:57 -0700

 Unless the situation has changed in Japan, it's customary or perhaps
 required to use a import/export company/agent for sales in Japan.
 Some countries make it extremely difficult for individuals to import
 or export.  Although my company doesn't do any business in Japan, we
 do business in other countries where this situation applies.

Generally speaking, import of goods by individuals is very popular in Japan.
Having said that, I don't know if there's any special requirements for radio 
equipments..

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] W1 software

2010-01-04 Thread K5WA
Thanks David.  I see that my keen eye for detail is still active.



-Original Message-
From: David Fleming [mailto:df...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:53 AM
To: K5WA
Cc: Elecraft reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 software

Hi Bob,

You should be using the W2 interface software. Not W1. You can find it here:

http://www.elecraft.com/software/W2/elecraft_w2_software.htm

Regards and 73,

David, W4SMT

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Dick Williams
Has anybody tried to buy a Yaesu, Icom or Kenwood direct from Japan without
going thru their dealers in the states?

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 9:49 AM
To: Tom Meier
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

Tom,

If he buys direct from Elecraft, he will have Tech Support direct from 
Elecraft, so I would guess he does not know his facts.

He may not have access to tech support from the Japanese distributor, 
but that is a different statement.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Meier wrote:
 Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting
a
 very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
 business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for
both
 sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
 exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true
that
 they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
 without access to any tech support.

 Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his
facts
 straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
 country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

 73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
   

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database 4743 (20100104) __

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http://www.eset.com


 

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[Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-04 Thread Tom Hammond
Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, I 
have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC boards.

I've been thinking about the problems some may encounter with regard 
to ordering the specific parts (PCB-mount 3.5mm stereo jacks) for the 
splitter, and more importantly the off the wall cost of shipping 
(usually $5-$7 US) for less than 3 oz of parts (and that's per each 
order placed).  This raises the cost of the project significantly.

I already have enough orders for PC boards that I'll not be able to 
fabricate them in the Kitchen (as I often do for very small PCB 
orders), and IF I proceed with the project from this end, I'll have 
FAR Circuits make the PC boards for the project. This will increase 
the cost of the project (just a bit), BUT it'll take a load off me, 
AND it'll help keep me in Jeri's (She Who Must By Obeyed) good graces...!!!

I am proposing to completely 'kit' the project... all electronic 
parts, hardware, and PC boards... for $20 or less, delivered to US 
destinations... add $1 more for DX delivery.

My initial PCB order will be for one 'sheet' of thirty (30) boards 
(main circuit board and an 'insulator' board to prevent the main 
board from shorting out against anything on the operating desk in 
back of the K3.  To that end, I'll need a few more orders before I'll 
be able to commit to the cash outlay for the PC boards.

IF you are interested in obtaining a kit for this project, PLEASE 
contact me a.s.a.p. I will make my final decision (GO or NO-GO) by 
the end of this week.

If you are interested, you can see the docs on a previous version of 
the Splitter at:

http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html

and drop down to the line titled: External (Dual) Speaker Splitter 
for the K3.

The proposed project will be slightly smaller than that shown on my 
web page and will use 2-56 hardware as opposed to 4-40 hardware in the article.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS 
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Re: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-04 Thread Lee Buller

Tom and the List

I appreciate Tom's design and a neat PCB package, but come on folks.  This is 
easy to breadboard and stick in a plastic box.  Go to Radio Shackbuy a 
little black project box...buy some connectors.  You can use 3.5 mm jacks or 
RCA jacks.  You can find them there to hole mount.  Take some time and drill 
a couple of holes and and then hardwired the box.  Easy Peasey.  No need for a 
PCB and all that stuff.  How about some hook up wire in your junk box?  Look 
around and you can find away to make this easy device without all the hassle.

Nice job Tomyou make it nice when you make the PCB...but there is no shame 
of just using hook up wire in a box.  

Lee - K0WA


 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't 
find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  
Is Common Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. 
-  J. Wolf







From: Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 1:20:07 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, I 
have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC boards.

I've been thinking about the problems some may encounter with regard 
to ordering the specific parts (PCB-mount 3.5mm stereo jacks) for the 
splitter, and more importantly the off the wall cost of shipping 
(usually $5-$7 US) for less than 3 oz of parts (and that's per each 
order placed).  This raises the cost of the project significantly.

I already have enough orders for PC boards that I'll not be able to 
fabricate them in the Kitchen (as I often do for very small PCB 
orders), and IF I proceed with the project from this end, I'll have 
FAR Circuits make the PC boards for the project. This will increase 
the cost of the project (just a bit), BUT it'll take a load off me, 
AND it'll help keep me in Jeri's (She Who Must By Obeyed) good graces...!!!

I am proposing to completely 'kit' the project... all electronic 
parts, hardware, and PC boards... for $20 or less, delivered to US 
destinations... add $1 more for DX delivery.

My initial PCB order will be for one 'sheet' of thirty (30) boards 
(main circuit board and an 'insulator' board to prevent the main 
board from shorting out against anything on the operating desk in 
back of the K3.  To that end, I'll need a few more orders before I'll 
be able to commit to the cash outlay for the PC boards.

IF you are interested in obtaining a kit for this project, PLEASE 
contact me a.s.a.p. I will make my final decision (GO or NO-GO) by 
the end of this week.

If you are interested, you can see the docs on a previous version of 
the Splitter at:

http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html

and drop down to the line titled: External (Dual) Speaker Splitter 
for the K3.

The proposed project will be slightly smaller than that shown on my 
web page and will use 2-56 hardware as opposed to 4-40 hardware in the article.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

2010-01-04 Thread Marc PE1FJN

Hello Rick,

HNY2010.

When I had output power problems at 15m, not at 20m, I increased the output
power by 'tuning' the low pass output filter (L9/L10, L11/L12), suggested by
ELECRAFT. By bringing windings together I was able to get the required
output.  It does not look as nice when having the windings evenly spread,
but in the end the output power is more important. 
Make sure you have a dummy load when checking Pout, as when VSWR is poor,
depending of the COAX length you will see high or low max output power on
display K1. Reason: K1 is measuring Vpeak out, and calculates it back to
power. So reading on display is only reliable when you have 50ohm, or have
installed the internal antenna tuner.

Also make sure you have 13.8V, Pout max between 12V and 13.8V makes a
difference. I run it at 12V, Power is 5W at 15m/20m band, while running at
13.8V I can easily get up to 7Watt. For me 12V is fine. 

If tuning of the coils does not work, contact elecraft support, and refer to
power problems from PE1FJN October this year at 15m SN: 2761. I changed 1
resistor on instructions from ELECRAFT. At this moment I have now no access
to this mail(sorry), but I'm sure you will be able to get the same
instructions. Having changed this resistor power was very fine, and not
marginal anymore. 

Hope this helps,

73
PE1FJN
Marc
K1 SN:2761

PS: Good Luck, at 20m DX is really nice with this RIG.
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[Elecraft] Audio leakage

2010-01-04 Thread John
When transmitting, there is leakage from the microphone to the speaker 
(e.g., feedback).
This may be operator error (having inadvertantly pushed the wrong button at 
some point during operation) or a problem with the radio and affiliated 
firmware.  I have atempted to read through the asorted notes, digests and 
manual to no avail.  'MIC+LIN' is off
Regardless of cause, how can this feedback between microphone and speaker 
be eliminated?
John Kountz. KE6GFF/T6EE
sn: 03271

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[Elecraft] Disgruntled Europeans

2010-01-04 Thread Doug Turnbull
I do not know about the problems the excellent JA operators may have in
importing equipment from Elecraft directly but I do find this information
interesting.   What I can tell you from personal experience is that many EU
hams look at prices in QST and CQ and just dream.   It seems that one can
purchase Japanese made radios in the States for the same price in dollars as
one pays in Euros or Sterling.   Okay we have VAT rates (Sales tax) that run
between 15% and 22% depending on one's country but this does not come close
to explaining the price differentials.   

I believe that being able to purchase the kit K3 directly is a great plus to
Elecrafter sales in the EU.   True one is a bit exposed as to service but if
one has built the kit then individual boards can be returned for service.
The K3 is small and not that heavy to ship back if needs be for that matter.
In EI if a piece of equipment breaks down it might need to be shipped off
for repair to another EU country and that might not be so inexpensive.   

I believe that Elecraft is going to see a steady increase in world wide
sales as more K3s are around for people to try.   Of course the weak dollar
is not hurting matters.   The US needs to increase exports and the
combination of performance and price competition is going to help K3 sales.
As all hams know we live in a small world.

  Happy New Year73 Doug EI2CN



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[Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

2010-01-04 Thread Ken Kopp
As one of the first of -many- who have managed to blow up the audio 
output IC in my K3, I'm qualified to comment. (;-)

First, I'm fortunate in that I caught my failure quickly and only scorched
the board.  I know of others who's boards were burned black / charred.  My 
event' happened early-on in the time frame of this issue.  I called Scott, 
had a conversation about the failure and was promptly sent a replacement. 

It was my -impression- at that time the cause of the IC failures wasn't 
really obvious, and that the IC was running at close to it's max capability.  
(Elecraft isn't known for doing this.)  Therefore, I fabricated a 
multiple-finned 
copper sheet heat sink for the IC and placed it under the IC when I soldered 
it to the board.  I understand there is now more land along the top of the 
board for additional heat-sinking of the IC.

When I turned the radio on after the replacement, I stuck my finger down
through the opening to feel the (added) heat sink and immediately checked
my reaction time!  It was HOT!  The overheating problem was still with me!

It was only then that I did what I should have done first ... determined the
actual cause of the IC's failure.  Like many, I had used a short 1/8 stereo 
Y cable to feed two external speakers.  These speakers both had mono
plugs, thereby shorting the right channel and causing the IC to overheat.

Since my event I've always felt the manual is remiss in -strongly- alerting
the user of the potential problem of plugging in a mono-plugged speaker.  
Yes, if one reads carefully and understands what's being said, the caution 
is there, but not all fully absorb the text's caution. Who reads the manual 
about the simple act of plugging in an external speaker? (:-)

Elecraft has now added software and hardware features' to protect us
from ourselves, and now Tom is doing the same.

As I said at the beginning ... I'm qualified to comment.  READ THE BOOK!
Even for the seemingly simple tasks.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net


Tom and the List

I appreciate Tom's design and a neat PCB package, but come on folks.  This is 
easy to breadboard and stick in a plastic box.  Go to Radio Shackbuy a 
little black project box...buy some connectors.  You can use 3.5 mm jacks or 
RCA jacks.  You can find them there to hole mount.  Take some time and drill 
a couple of holes and then hardwired the box.  Easy Peasey.  No need for a PCB 
and all that stuff.  How about some hook up wire in your junk box?  Look around 
and you can find away to make this easy device without all the hassle.

Nice job Tomyou make it nice when you make the PCB...but there is no shame 
of just using hook up wire in a box.  

Lee - K0WA

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
Common Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. 
-  J. Wolf







From: Tom Hammond n...@embarqmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 1:20:07 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] More on N0SS K3 External Speaker Splitter

Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, I 
have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC boards.

I've been thinking about the problems some may encounter with regard 
to ordering the specific parts (PCB-mount 3.5mm stereo jacks) for the 
splitter, and more importantly the off the wall cost of shipping 
(usually $5-$7 US) for less than 3 oz of parts (and that's per each 
order placed).  This raises the cost of the project significantly.

I already have enough orders for PC boards that I'll not be able to 
fabricate them in the Kitchen (as I often do for very small PCB 
orders), and IF I proceed with the project from this end, I'll have 
FAR Circuits make the PC boards for the project. This will increase 
the cost of the project (just a bit), BUT it'll take a load off me, 
AND it'll help keep me in Jeri's (She Who Must By Obeyed) good graces...!!!

I am proposing to completely 'kit' the project... all electronic 
parts, hardware, and PC boards... for $20 or less, delivered to US 
destinations... add $1 more for DX delivery.

My initial PCB order will be for one 'sheet' of thirty (30) boards 
(main circuit board and an 'insulator' board to prevent the main 
board from shorting out against anything on the operating desk in 
back of the K3.  To that end, I'll need a few more orders before I'll 
be able to commit to the cash outlay for the PC boards.

IF you are interested in obtaining a kit for this project, PLEASE 
contact me a.s.a.p. I will make my final decision (GO or NO-GO) by 
the end of this week.

If you are interested, you can see the docs on a previous version of 
the Splitter at:

http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html

and drop down 

[Elecraft] AUDIO LEAKAGE

2010-01-04 Thread emoss98133
push and hold the MON button.   make sure it is set to= 0
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Re: [Elecraft] Audio leakage

2010-01-04 Thread K7WIA



John-48 wrote:
 
 When transmitting, there is leakage from the microphone to the speaker 
 (e.g., feedback).
 
 
 Push and hold the MON Button,  make sure it is set to =0
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Re: [Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you

2010-01-04 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
I don't know about most either, but I, and our cat, built K2/100 # 3255 
some years ago. Beware of cats who try to help, our Temple Cat takes an 
unhealthy interest in multi pin SMDs.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD

Conway Yee y...@bronze.lcs.mit.edu wrote:

 Are most K2 users people who buy it prebuilt?


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Re: [Elecraft] Audio leakage

2010-01-04 Thread K7WIA

push and hold the MON button and make sure it is set to = 0
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Toroid Wire Coating

2010-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Byron, 

The toroids will work just fine with the outer wires not flat against 
the core, but ---
Pulling on the wire is *not* the way to accomplish nice tight toroids.  
The wire will break before it goes flat against the outside of the core.
The way to make nice tight turns is to use a fingertip to press the wire 
against the outside of the core on *each* turn.  No need to pull 
excessively, just dress it up against the core.

73,
Don W3FPR

Byron Servies wrote:
 My toroids do not have the outer wires flat against the core as I see 
 in most pictures, even though I pulled rather hard on the wires as I 
 wound them, but they all seem to work well. I may try pressing them 
 down in future, if only for improved asthetics. The only problem I 
 found was that afterwards I needed to very carefully re-tin my 
 soldering iron tip to get rid of residue. I think I may use a wider 
 tip just for toroid winding next time.

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Hector Padron
WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be then over 5 
grands in japan with that dealer EDC?
 
AD4C


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:


From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 5:45 PM


Hi everyone, this is my first post.

I also had a Japanese ham (in Japan) tell me the same story.
I found on the order page on the Elecraft site the following line:

Note:  All Japan orders (except expatriate orders) must be placed through our 
distributor: EDC

This sounds to me like if you're Japanese living in Japan and ordering from 
Japan, you have to order through EDC.

If you go to the EDC site today, the price for the K3/10 kit is listed as 
268600 yen,
which at today's exchange rate is approx $2900.

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV


Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Tom,
 
 If he buys direct from Elecraft, he will have Tech Support direct from 
 Elecraft, so I would guess he does not know his facts.
 
 He may not have access to tech support from the Japanese distributor, 
 but that is a different statement.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Tom Meier wrote:
 Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting a
 very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
 business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for both
 sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
 exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true that
 they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
 without access to any tech support.

 Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his facts
 straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
 country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

 73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
   

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Duncan Carter
Another consideration is the degree of risk in acting as your own 
import/export agent.  Almost all vendors sell on terms where the buyer 
is the owner of the equipment once it leave the seller's facility.  If 
there's a problem during transit, it becomes the buyer's problem.  
Insurance can help but it's not a cure-all; avoidance of claims payment 
is a common practice.  In many countries, getting equipment through 
customs can be a real adventure.  Most countries are also familiar 
with the many ruses for avoiding import duties; most have a high degree 
of regulation of payment for just this reason.  Attempting to avoid such 
duties can produce a high risk of having the equipment confiscated.

Dunc, W5DC

Dick Williams wrote:
 Has anybody tried to buy a Yaesu, Icom or Kenwood direct from Japan without
 going thru their dealers in the states?

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 9:49 AM
 To: Tom Meier
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

 Tom,

 If he buys direct from Elecraft, he will have Tech Support direct from 
 Elecraft, so I would guess he does not know his facts.

 He may not have access to tech support from the Japanese distributor, 
 but that is a different statement.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Tom Meier wrote:
   
 Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting
 
 a
   
 very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
 business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for
 
 both
   
 sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
 exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true
 
 that
   
 they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
 without access to any tech support.

 Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his
 
 facts
   
 straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
 country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

 73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
   

 
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Bob
That is just the same as those  here in the states buying or importing
a gray market camera or other piece of electronics that the US dealers
or distributors will not support.

Should I be mad at Canon or Nikon?I don't think so.So the JA's
don't like it when the shoe is on the other foot.

73,
Bob
K2TK

Tom Meier wrote:
 Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting a
 very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
 business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for both
 sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
 exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true that
 they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
 without access to any tech support.

 Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his facts
 straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
 country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

 73 de Tom (K7ZZ)

   

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Re: [Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you

2010-01-04 Thread Conway Yee
GM4ESD writes:
 I don't know about most either, but I, and our cat, built K2/100 # 3255
 some years ago. Beware of cats who try to help, our Temple Cat takes an
 unhealthy interest in multi pin SMDs.

I don't know

I'm building my K2 with two assistants...one 7 years old...one 3 years
old...

My 7 year old is in charge of holding the solder.
My 3 year old is in charge of the pliers to clip the lead while assisting
me in holding the soldering iron.

Of course, it takes about three times as long to get anything done with
so many assistants sitting on your lap but we are having a lot of fun...

Even washing our hands after soldering (Pb) is a project involving water
in all sorts of places that Mom isn't all thrilled aboutoops

tnx.
Conway Yee, N2JWQ

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread K9ZTV
A couple of thoughts:

1)  Distributor jacking up the price . . .

Heathkit did the same thing forty years ago.  You had your choice of 
buying direct from the factory at one price (lower), or with the 
convenience of buying from a local (more or less) distributor at another 
price (higher). There is not a thing wrong with this kind of 
merchandising or its resultant mark-up in price.  The distributor has to 
stock parts, devote inventory space, hire staff, do billings, handle 
returns, etc.  That's why factory direct (regardless of the product) 
is usually cheaper than through stores (although with some manufacturers 
it's often just a marketing ploy resulting in little if any discount in 
price).

2)  Exclusive Dealerships . . .

When Yaesu first started importing to the United States all sales were 
exclusively handled through Spectronics USA (East or West).  There 
was never an option of buying factory-direct from Japan.  Those FT-101s 
we so eagerly bought up (and in so doing put our American companies out 
of business) always cost more in the US than they did in Japan.  To 
those of our JA brothers who are complaining about Elecraft doing the 
same thing, I merely remind them that what goes around comes around.  
It's their turn now.

73,

Kent  K9ZTV

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Fumiaki Okushi
I would personally prefer to buy from a local distributor, for the exact reason 
you mention.
So I'm willing to pay a little extra for that convenience.
The question is how much will I (or more generally, one) be willing to pay for 
the additional convenience.

With regards to ham radio equipment, bands could be different from one country 
to another (and certainly the case between US and JA),
so there's another reason you might want to deal locally.

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

From: Duncan Carter d...@vibrotek.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:51:19 -0700

 Another consideration is the degree of risk in acting as your own 
 import/export agent.  Almost all vendors sell on terms where the buyer 
 is the owner of the equipment once it leave the seller's facility.  If 
 there's a problem during transit, it becomes the buyer's problem.  
 Insurance can help but it's not a cure-all; avoidance of claims payment 
 is a common practice.  In many countries, getting equipment through 
 customs can be a real adventure.  Most countries are also familiar 
 with the many ruses for avoiding import duties; most have a high degree 
 of regulation of payment for just this reason.  Attempting to avoid such 
 duties can produce a high risk of having the equipment confiscated.
 
 Dunc, W5DC
 
 Dick Williams wrote:
 Has anybody tried to buy a Yaesu, Icom or Kenwood direct from Japan without
 going thru their dealers in the states?
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Fumiaki Okushi
From: Bob k...@att.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 2010 15:51:51 -0500

 Should I be mad at Canon or Nikon?I don't think so.So the JA's
 don't like it when the shoe is on the other foot.

Have you actually done price comparison?
Yaesu, Kenwood, ICOM products are only slightly more expensive in the US market.
With respect to Canon and Nikon (and I believe you are referring to DSLR), they 
are usually cheaper in the US market (because of fierce competition).
For example, Nikon D300S (body only).
You can get it in Tokyo from Yodobashi Camera (one of the major camera stores 
in Japan) for 177000 yen,
which at today's exchange rate is $1900.
You can find the same D300S at Wolf Camera (US camera store chain) for $1700.


BTW, just in case I'm misunderstood, I think local distributors are okay, and 
some markups are okay (for the added convenience).
I believe potential JA customers will agree on this.
It's only when the markup is excessive, it becomes an issue..


Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Fumiaki Okushi
From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)

 WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be then over 5 
 grands in japan with that dealer EDC?

You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories) at 
http://www.edcjp.jp/shop/order-K3.pdf

Note that the pdf includes Japanese so parts of the page may not render 
properly depending on the pdf reader you may have..

Regards,
Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

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Re: [Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you

2010-01-04 Thread Gary Hinson
 I'm building my K2 with two assistants...one 7 years old...one 3 years
 old...
 
 My 7 year old is in charge of holding the solder.
 My 3 year old is in charge of the pliers to clip the lead 
 while assisting
 me in holding the soldering iron.
 
 Of course, it takes about three times as long to get anything 
 done with
 so many assistants sitting on your lap but we are having a 
 lot of fun...
 
 Even washing our hands after soldering (Pb) is a project 
 involving water
 in all sorts of places that Mom isn't all thrilled aboutoops

Now that's what I call Elmering!

Nice going Conway, raising the next generation of Elecrafties.

73
Gary  ZL2iFB

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[Elecraft] Richmond Frostfest

2010-01-04 Thread Tom Morehouse
Who will be exhibiting for Elecraft at this year's Frostfest?

HNY and 73
Tom 
K4AEN
K3 #3497

dit dit
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread The Smiths

Guys, it's obvious what's going on here:

 

Have you put any consideration into the fact that when Japan imports something 
to the US we pay almost NO import taxes, yet when something American is sent to 
Japan you guys stick us with almost a 40% import tax (not including the cost to 
ship things over seas)... 
Why is it that when I send something to China in a 1 pound box it cost me $40 
US.  Yet when I order my cell phone parts from China, and they send the SAME 1 
pound box direct it cost them only $4.50... Nothing new there either.
 
It's been obvious to me that America is the last country left to alow almost 
anything in to our country free of import/export taxes and terrifs.  And you 
wonder why we have lower prices here?? Really?
 
Sorry you have to pay more there in Japan, but you'll probably need to talk to 
your government about that... Not Elecraft.. 
 

 

 
 Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 13:09:32 -0800
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 From: fumi...@okushi.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
 
 I would personally prefer to buy from a local distributor, for the exact 
 reason you mention.
 So I'm willing to pay a little extra for that convenience.
 The question is how much will I (or more generally, one) be willing to pay 
 for the additional convenience.
 
 With regards to ham radio equipment, bands could be different from one 
 country to another (and certainly the case between US and JA),
 so there's another reason you might want to deal locally.
 
 Regards,
 Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV
 
 From: Duncan Carter d...@vibrotek.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
 Date: Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:51:19 -0700
 
  Another consideration is the degree of risk in acting as your own 
  import/export agent. Almost all vendors sell on terms where the buyer 
  is the owner of the equipment once it leave the seller's facility. If 
  there's a problem during transit, it becomes the buyer's problem. 
  Insurance can help but it's not a cure-all; avoidance of claims payment 
  is a common practice. In many countries, getting equipment through 
  customs can be a real adventure. Most countries are also familiar 
  with the many ruses for avoiding import duties; most have a high degree 
  of regulation of payment for just this reason. Attempting to avoid such 
  duties can produce a high risk of having the equipment confiscated.
  
  Dunc, W5DC
  
  Dick Williams wrote:
  Has anybody tried to buy a Yaesu, Icom or Kenwood direct from Japan without
  going thru their dealers in the states?
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[Elecraft] Elecraft Disgruntled JA

2010-01-04 Thread rfenabled

In VK we have a GST exemption from the US provided the goods value (including 
freight) does not exceed $1,000.00 Australian Dollars. If the item(s) exceed 
this amount, then a GST of 10 percent is applied.

But the freight charges from the US for say an Ameritron 811H amplifier will be 
added to the sell price of around $800.00 (depending on where you shop) will 
likely end up at around $1,250.00 or thereabouts.

Dealers in VK regularly advertise these amplifiers for $1,799 plus freight, or 
in one case $1,899.00 delivered anywhere in VK.

Even the most liberal thinker would question the difference. Yes the seller 
will have a list of reasons ready to offer the customer who dares to ask why 
the price is so high.

Customs clearance charges, freight cost's as all this gear comes air freight, 
GST and warranty allowance etc. Sounds good, till you need to claim on the 
warranty...(:-))

YMMV

73's
Gary
VK4FD - Portable
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Bill W4ZV



Fumiaki Okushi wrote:
 
 Have you actually done price comparison?
 Yaesu, Kenwood, ICOM products are only slightly more expensive in the US
 market.
 With respect to Canon and Nikon (and I believe you are referring to DSLR),
 they are usually cheaper in the US market (because of fierce competition).
 For example, Nikon D300S (body only).
 You can get it in Tokyo from Yodobashi Camera (one of the major camera
 stores in Japan) for 177000 yen,
 which at today's exchange rate is $1900.
 You can find the same D300S at Wolf Camera (US camera store chain) for
 $1700.
 

There's a lot of misinformation flowing here...Fumi-san is correct.  I
traveled to Japan frequently in the 70s and 80s and bought several cameras
and even a (Trio nee Kenwood) TS-820S in local markets there.  The savings
were substantial then but, beginning in the mid-1980s, it became cheaper to
buy equipment from NYC distributors, not to mention potential warranty
issues...ditto for Hong Kong prices.  BTW the D300S body is available for
$1500 from BH Photo shipped and even $1389 from a less trustworthy
distributor.

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Open question : K3 and interfaces used for digi modes...

2010-01-04 Thread Julian, G4ILO


Lionel-F6FCD wrote:
 
 Who and how are you using Elecraft products with interfaces for digi-mode
 ?
 What are you doing with ? what kind of mode is interresting ?
 
 And alsowhat kind of software.a lot are available on the web
 

I am using the program I wrote myself, KComm, for PSK31 as well as general
logging. I think PSK31 is the most interesting digital mode because it is
the most popular, and because there is enough activity that there are even
stations using it from quite rare DX locations.

If you want to try other digital modes then I would recommend Fldigi.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] Japanese prices ('disgruntled' thread re-titled)

2010-01-04 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Looks like there is a lot of confusion surrounding K3 pricing in Japan. :-)

We've worked with EDC in Japan for 10 years. They are a very small 
company, owned by JA8CCL, that is honorable and that gives support above 
and beyond what is normally required to their customers. That includes 
fixing improperly customer built K1s, KX1s, K2s and K3s under their 
'warranty' at no charge. They are a high value added distributor who 
does not forget the customer once the sale is made.

I agree that the prices can look high when just comparing the raw EDC JA 
price to our web price. What many do not realize is that EDC bears a lot 
of import and transport expense that would normally be borne by the 
customer if they buy a product direct.

The K3 prices listed by EDC also include the following ALL of the 
following import and support costs that do not appear on our price list 
here:

1. The local JA consumption tax. (VAT) In the US this is added to the 
invoice at time of sale. In JA, EDC shows it already included on their 
K3 price list.

2. Import duty entering JA.

(The above two items are computed based on the total cost of the product 
on the shipper invoice, including all shipping and handling costs. )

- EDC can't fly 'under the radar' as many individuals try to do. Like 
us, they are carefully watched by the import officials and have to be 
squeaky clean - paying all taxes, duties etc.

3. Import shipping to JA from CA. (not cheap!)

4. Cost of handling all the customs paperwork, fee payment etc.
Especially when importing larger value and size shipments, Japan can be 
one of the more time consuming bureaucracies to deal with.

5. Cost of the variation in the Yen - Dollar exchange rate.
This is significant. The exchange rate has varied between 110 and 90 yen 
to the dollar over the past 18 months, 22%, and even more so over the 
past 2-1/2 years. I know of specific periods over the past ten years 
where EDC has actually lost money importing our products due to shifts 
in the exchange rate.

6. Cost of funds to carry inventory. EDC orders many of our products 
well ahead of time and stocks them at their cost, tying up funds that 
could be used elsewhere.

7. Cost to pay for their offices, test equipment and employees.


EDC also carries all of the cost of advertising in the JA local market. 
Ads in JA CQ are way more expensive than QST.

They also translate all of our manuals into Japanese. Not an easy 
undertaking.

On top of these costs they also need to make a small profit.  It isn't 
much, based on what I've observed. (He makes most of his revenue from 
designing custom medical equipment and custom hard disk drive 
manufacturing test equipment.)

To be honest, JA8CCL does this out of his love for the hobby, and out of 
a personal friendship with me going back 20 years. Once he sells a 
product to a customer, he supports them for life. Period. He has a large 
following of loyal customers, many who have emailed us directly to 
compliment EDC on their support.

That said, we're also always working with them to try to get the JA EDC 
price lower. Its a challenge, but we'll keep working on it. There is not 
a lot of margin to play with in the ham radio market.

While others have pointed out that its difficult, if not impossible, to 
buy most JA manufactured top end radios directly from Japan, please 
let's not let this thread degenerate into a pro-con of one manufacturer 
or government  against another.

Rather than tie up the reflector with an extended conversation on this, 
please feel free to email me directly with any comments and suggestions 
you might have.

73, Eric   WA6HHQ


 Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 13:09:32 -0800
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 From: fumi...@okushi.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

 I would personally prefer to buy from a local distributor, for the exact 
 reason you mention.
 So I'm willing to pay a little extra for that convenience.
 The question is how much will I (or more generally, one) be willing to pay 
 for the additional convenience.

 With regards to ham radio equipment, bands could be different from one 
 country to another (and certainly the case between US and JA), so there's 
 another reason you might want to deal locally.

 Regards,
 Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

 From: Duncan Carter d...@vibrotek.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
 Date: Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:51:19 -0700

 
 Another consideration is the degree of risk in acting as your own 
 import/export agent. Almost all vendors sell on terms where the buyer 
 is the owner of the equipment once it leave the seller's facility. If 
 there's a problem during transit, it becomes the buyer's problem. 
 Insurance can help but it's not a cure-all; avoidance of claims payment 
 is a common practice. In many countries, getting equipment through 
 customs can be a real adventure. Most countries are also familiar 
 with the many ruses for avoiding import duties; most have a high degree 
 of 

Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Let me build a K2 for you

2010-01-04 Thread 2rGarry


Alan Price-3 wrote:
 
 
 Let me build a K2, or any other Elecraft kit, for you.  You will receive a
 brand new radio with the options you want.  I have built very close to 300
 K2's to date.  My prices are reasonable.  Please respond directly, not on
 the reflector.
 
  
 
 73
 
 Alan
 
 W1HYV
 
 I think that's great that you have had the opportunity to build that many
 K2's Alan.  I for one have so enjoyed the assembly of mine that I am would
 never give up the opportunity to build one.  
 
 Oh Wait . I needed another radio like I needed another hole in my head
   I bought the K2 solely for the experience of building it and then
 enjoying it for cw.  
 
 From what little I have seen and heard from the receiver to date, (Just
 finished the finals install today and am adding parts for options) I am
 going to be completely happy with that choice.  BTW I debated about buying
 the toroids prewound but am glad I opted to do my own.  I don't have the
 enthusiastic assistants that Conway has for backup so I have had to muddle
 through it by myself.  :)  Hopefully the transmitter will check out fine
 and I'll very soon have it on the air..
 
 72/3 and cheerio all
 
 Garry/Ve7ajj 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgruntled Europeans

2010-01-04 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Doug Turnbull wrote:
 
 Many EU hams look at prices in QST and CQ and just dream.   It seems that
 one can
 purchase Japanese made radios in the States for the same price in dollars
 as
 one pays in Euros or Sterling.
 
It's really a dream. There are so many hidden costs that much of the saving
gets eaten up by the time the product gets here. I just did a quick example
of a Yaesu VX-8R, listed by Universal Radio at $379. Add on say $50 for
international shipping. That comes to GBP 268 (£1 = $1.60) You'll be charged
17.5% VAT on arrival here plus a GBP 13 tax collection fee bringing the
total to GBP 328. Nevada Radio is selling the EU version (VX-8E) for GBP
338. So ten quid gets you the EU version plus a locally supported warranty.



 I believe that being able to purchase the kit K3 directly is a great plus
 to
 Elecrafter sales in the EU.   True one is a bit exposed as to service but
 if
 one has built the kit then individual boards can be returned for service.
 The K3 is small and not that heavy to ship back if needs be for that
 matter.
 

I wonder if those who have actually had to ship a K3 back to the US from
Europe would agree? I know for a fact that whenever I write on my website or
blog about something I bought in the US I get emails from hams asking where
in the UK they can order. Many in our hobby are a pretty conservative bunch
and will not buy from outside the UK. I think Elecraft could actually be
losing sales by not selling through local dealers, not least because there
are some people with money burning a hole in their pocket who go to Martin
Lynch or WS on a Saturday morning looking for a new toy to take home and
play with, and if there isn't a K3 there to try out they'll buy something
else instead.

However I suspect if Elecraft did sell through UK dealers the extra cost to
us would be a lot more than in my Yaesu example because there is no dealer
mark-up in the price we pay from Elecraft, whereas the Japanese
manufacturers have local offices and dealers taking their cut on both sides
of the Atlantic. So carry on selling direct, please. :)

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] Disgruntled Europeans

2010-01-04 Thread ab2tc

Hi,

It's been an interesting discussion. As a naturalized US citizen I am fully
aware how privileged we are in this country buying equipment of any kind,
imported or not. I just went through the motions of ordering the VX-8R from
Universal Radio except the final step of actually placing the order. My
final price shipped UPS ground (5 days typical) to my New York home is
$369.90. There is a 9.95$ shipping charge but then there is currently a $20
coupon applied by Universal. No sales tax since Universal does no business
in NY. Even in the few cases where sales tax applies, it's a mere 7-9%. I
do feel bad for my fellow hams in most other  countries who are not as
fortunate.

AB2TC - Knut


Julian, G4ILO wrote:
 
 It's really a dream. There are so many hid of all sortsden costs that much
 of the saving gets eaten up by the time the product gets here. I just did
 a quick example of a Yaesu VX-8R, listed by Universal Radio at $379. Add
 on say $50 for international shipping. That comes to GBP 268 (£1 = $1.60)
 You'll be charged 17.5% VAT on arrival here plus a GBP 13 tax collection
 fee bringing the total to GBP 328. Nevada Radio is selling the EU version
 (VX-8E) for GBP 338. So ten quid gets you the EU version plus a locally
 supported warranty.
 snip
 

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[Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread James Sarte
Hello group,

Just wanted to let you know that I assembled my first real Elecraft kit
today, and that was the XG2 signal generator.  It took me about 2 hours to
assemble the kit.  I took my time, and read the assembly errata before
beginning.  I'm rather pleased with myself as this was the first solder kit
I've tackled; everything else has been plug-together-assembly.  I've also
just completed calibrating my K3's s-meter, which was a rather painless
process.

I'm now ready to tackle my next solder-together kit.  K2 perhaps? :)

-- 
73 de James K2QI
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[Elecraft] Re: Japanese prices ('disgrunt led' thread re-titled)

2010-01-04 Thread Johnny Siu
Hello Eric,

Thanks for the thorough clarification.

If you have no objection, can I translate your message in Japanese and pass it 
to the ham colleagues in Japan who are complaining about the excessive price 
differences?

I think this will let them understand more so that they can make their own 
judgement and customer's choice.

73  HNY

Johnny Siu VR2XMC


 


- 郵件原件 
寄件人﹕ Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com
收件人﹕ The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com
副本(CC) Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Wayne Burdick 
wa...@elecraft.com
傳送日期﹕ 2010/1/5 (二) 7:47:27 AM
主題: Re: [Elecraft] Japanese prices ('disgruntled' thread re-titled)

Looks like there is a lot of confusion surrounding K3 pricing in Japan. :-)

We've worked with EDC in Japan for 10 years. They are a very small 
company, owned by JA8CCL, that is honorable and that gives support above 
and beyond what is normally required to their customers. That includes 
fixing improperly customer built K1s, KX1s, K2s and K3s under their 
'warranty' at no charge. They are a high value added distributor who 
does not forget the customer once the sale is made.

I agree that the prices can look high when just comparing the raw EDC JA 
price to our web price. What many do not realize is that EDC bears a lot 
of import and transport expense that would normally be borne by the 
customer if they buy a product direct.

The K3 prices listed by EDC also include the following ALL of the 
following import and support costs that do not appear on our price list 
here:

1. The local JA consumption tax. (VAT) In the US this is added to the 
invoice at time of sale. In JA, EDC shows it already included on their 
K3 price list.

2. Import duty entering JA.

(The above two items are computed based on the total cost of the product 
on the shipper invoice, including all shipping and handling costs. )

- EDC can't fly 'under the radar' as many individuals try to do. Like 
us, they are carefully watched by the import officials and have to be 
squeaky clean - paying all taxes, duties etc.

3.. Import shipping to JA from CA. (not cheap!)

4. Cost of handling all the customs paperwork, fee payment etc.
Especially when importing larger value and size shipments, Japan can be 
one of the more time consuming bureaucracies to deal with.

5. Cost of the variation in the Yen - Dollar exchange rate.
This is significant. The exchange rate has varied between 110 and 90 yen 
to the dollar over the past 18 months, 22%, and even more so over the 
past 2-1/2 years. I know of specific periods over the past ten years 
where EDC has actually lost money importing our products due to shifts 
in the exchange rate.

6. Cost of funds to carry inventory.. EDC orders many of our products 
well ahead of time and stocks them at their cost, tying up funds that 
could be used elsewhere.

7. Cost to pay for their offices, test equipment and employees.


EDC also carries all of the cost of advertising in the JA local market. 
Ads in JA CQ are way more expensive than QST.

They also translate all of our manuals into Japanese. Not an easy 
undertaking.

On top of these costs they also need to make a small profit.  It isn't 
much, based on what I've observed. (He makes most of his revenue from 
designing custom medical equipment and custom hard disk drive 
manufacturing test equipment.)

To be honest, JA8CCL does this out of his love for the hobby, and out of 
a personal friendship with me going back 20 years. Once he sells a 
product to a customer, he supports them for life. Period. He has a large 
following of loyal customers, many who have emailed us directly to 
compliment EDC on their support.

That said, we're also always working with them to try to get the JA EDC 
price lower. Its a challenge, but we'll keep working on it. There is not 
a lot of margin to play with in the ham radio market.

While others have pointed out that its difficult, if not impossible, to 
buy most JA manufactured top end radios directly from Japan, please 
let's not let this thread degenerate into a pro-con of one manufacturer 
or government  against another.

Rather than tie up the reflector with an extended conversation on this, 
please feel free to email me directly with any comments and suggestions 
you might have.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ


 Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 13:09:32 -0800
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 From: fumi...@okushi.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

 I would personally prefer to buy from a local distributor, for the exact 
 reason you mention.
 So I'm willing to pay a little extra for that convenience.
 The question is how much will I (or more generally, one) be willing to pay 
 for the additional convenience.

 With regards to ham radio equipment, bands could be different from one 
 country to another (and certainly the case between US and JA), so there's 
 another reason you might want to deal locally.

 Regards,
 Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV



  Yahoo!香港提供網上安全攻略,教你如何防範黑客! 請前往 

Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread Wes Stewart
Congrats James.

I've been homebrewing since 1958 but I too just put together an XG2 that Santa 
delivered. Nice little starter kit and useful too.

Wes  N7WS

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:

From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
Subject: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator
To: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 5:55 PM

Hello group,

Just wanted to let you know that I assembled my first real Elecraft kit
today, and that was the XG2 signal generator.  It took me about 2 hours to
assemble the kit.  I took my time, and read the assembly errata before
beginning.  I'm rather pleased with myself as this was the first solder kit
I've tackled; everything else has been plug-together-assembly.  I've also
just completed calibrating my K3's s-meter, which was a rather painless
process.

I'm now ready to tackle my next solder-together kit.  K2 perhaps? :)

-- 
73 de James K2QI




  
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[Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread KC2VNI

Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an auto-tuner.
Several basic questions:

1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire antenna
pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree? 

2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer support
from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate at 100W.
What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable? What size
fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the battery?

I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I
don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of a
help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please advise.

73,

KC2VNI.

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4253024.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread Steve Ellington
Give us some details about your tree so we can help. Where did you purchase 
it, brand etc.?

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 8:19 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham



 Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an 
 auto-tuner.
 Several basic questions:

 1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire 
 antenna
 pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree?

 2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer 
 support
 from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate at 
 100W.
 What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable? What size
 fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the battery?

 I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I
 don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of 
 a
 help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please 
 advise.

 73,

 KC2VNI.

 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4253024.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.125/2600 - Release Date: 01/04/10 
14:35:00

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Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread Phil Hystad
Funny,

I too just finished putting it together.  Works with no problems on the first 
test.

And, my K3 kit arrived today.  The boxes are sitting here on the floor in my 
den and I will probably get started on it tomorrow.  Tonight I am reading 
through the assembly manual.

phil, K7PEH


On Jan 4, 2010, at 5:04 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:

 Congrats James.
 
 I've been homebrewing since 1958 but I too just put together an XG2 that 
 Santa delivered. Nice little starter kit and useful too.
 
 Wes  N7WS
 
 --- On Mon, 1/4/10, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:
 
 From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator
 To: Elecraft Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 5:55 PM
 
 Hello group,
 
 Just wanted to let you know that I assembled my first real Elecraft kit
 today, and that was the XG2 signal generator.  It took me about 2 hours to
 assemble the kit.  I took my time, and read the assembly errata before
 beginning.  I'm rather pleased with myself as this was the first solder kit
 I've tackled; everything else has been plug-together-assembly.  I've also
 just completed calibrating my K3's s-meter, which was a rather painless
 process.
 
 I'm now ready to tackle my next solder-together kit.  K2 perhaps? :)
 
 -- 
 73 de James K2QI
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread Mike B
The biggest problem with kit building is that you typically get done far
too quickly.  That leaves you feeling empty and yearning for yet more
kits to build, and on and on...

73,
Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread James Sarte
I'd have to agree... I'm thinking a K2 would be a nice summer-time project.
Or perhaps *gasp* one of those fandangled DZKit Sienna's. ;-)

Only thing I worry about is winding toroids.  

73 de James K2QI

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike B
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 8:50 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

The biggest problem with kit building is that you typically get done far
too quickly.  That leaves you feeling empty and yearning for yet more
kits to build, and on and on...

73,
Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Toroid Wire Coating

2010-01-04 Thread Tom McCulloch
I saved this originally posted by Ron, AC7AC of this list, I found it very 
informative, in that  a picture is worth a thousand words ...thanks  Ron

http://emtech.steadynet.com/rm/tinning_200_l.ram

Tom WB2QDG
K2 1103



- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: flashan...@aol.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Toroid Wire Coating


 Bob,

 You are being too picky - the cores are not conductive.  The only thing
 to be careful of is shorted turns.  I normally tin the leads all the way
 up to the core unless there is a reason to leave an insulated lead (as
 there is on the KXB3080 LPF toroid L2).

 If you are using a flame, be careful you do not overheat the copper, and
 often the residue from a flame will leave a deposit that is difficult to
 remove and the solder will not adhere to it - so use only enough heat to
 melt the insulation and no more (do not stick the wire directly into the
 blue part of the flame).

 Try the solder blob method, it is easier and more clean - use a wide tip
 on the iron so it will hold a reasonable blob or solder and turn the
 iron temperature up to 800 deg F or more (lower temperatures can lead to
 frustration and long times before the lead is tinned).

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 flashan...@aol.com wrote:
 For my first several toroid windings, I have used a Bic lighter flame to
 burn off the coating on the wire tails, followed by a sanding with the
 supplied P180 sandpaper.  I noticed it can burn up the wire fast and one 
 of  them
 lost the coating up to the core.  Should I recoat, especially  where the
 lead may touch the wound toroid, like the horizontal RFC11?  What  is a
 suitable recoat for the wire?  Or am I being too picky?



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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread Wes Stewart
Steve, 

Congratulations and welcome.

I can't recommend a manufactured antenna since I make all of my own, which I 
encourage you to do eventually.  I do understand your desire to get on quickly, 
though and I suspect you will get a lot of recommendations, some better than 
others.

As to the battery, I use a Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) 92 AH battery made by East 
Penn Manufacturing and sold under their Deka brand. 
(http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf) I have it on continuous 
charge via a home-built 30A smart charger.

The charger to battery circuit (both wires) is fused at 30A and the radio 
circuit is fused at 25A.  In addition I use a battery boost regulator made by 
TGE (http://stores.tgelectronics.org/Detail.bok?no=11) to provide a constant 
14.1V at the radio regardless of battery state, and the inevitable voltage drop 
in the wiring.

I can tell you that at the 100W level, without the charger running and the 
booster off, it doesn't take long before the K3 is beeping and warning about 
low battery voltage.

This system was put together for RV/Field Day use, but I also use it in the 
fixed location when the RV is in storage, even though I have an Astron RM-35 
sitting right next to the charger.

Wes  N7WS

--- On Mon, 1/4/10, KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com wrote:

From: KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com
Subject: [Elecraft]  New K3 User and New Ham
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 4, 2010, 6:19 PM


Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an auto-tuner.
Several basic questions:

1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire antenna
pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree? 

2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer support
from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate at 100W.
What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable? What size
fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the battery?

I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I
don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of a
help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please advise.

73,

KC2VNI.





  
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Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread Wes Stewart


--- On Mon, 1/4/10, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:


I'd have to agree... I'm thinking a K2 would be a nice summer-time project.
Or perhaps *gasp* one of those fandangled DZKit Sienna's. ;-)

Only thing I worry about is winding toroids.  

Why?  What could be simpler?





  
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread David Herring
You might consider going with a G5RV antenna as a starter antenna.  It's 
multiband...80 meters and up to I think 10 meters...your rig has the auto-tuner 
so any minor matching adjustments will be handled by the tuner just fine.  
There's no real challenges with the antenna.  It's not the best antenna in 
the world, but it will work very well as a simple starter antenna (people have 
worked the world with them), especially if your tree is high enough.  I assume 
you have 1 tree?  If so, then I'm assuming you'll run this in an inverted-vee 
configuration (center up high as possible, ends slope down from center at a 30 
to 45 degree angle).  The inverted-v is a little more omni-directional, which 
again is good for a starter antenna.  I think key is getting the center up as 
high as you can.  30 feet?  40 feet?  Again, as much height as you can will 
help (in general).

If you are pressed for space, then you can always consider the G5RV jr.  It's 
shorter in length, requires less height, but it only runs 40 meters and up (40 
- 10).

I believe MFJ has a G5RV.  If not, there's plenty other vendors that do.  One's 
pretty much as good as another.  The G5RV is simple enough that you could 
probably even make one yourself...

I can't comment too much on the batteries, other than to say I know of people 
powering their rigs using car batteries and golf cart batteries...

Good luck and welcome to Amateur Radio!

73,

Dave K6DCH


On Jan 4, 2010, at 3:19 PM, KC2VNI wrote:

 
 Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an auto-tuner.
 Several basic questions:
 
 1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire antenna
 pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree? 
 
 2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer support
 from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate at 100W.
 What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable? What size
 fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the battery?
 
 I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I
 don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of a
 help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please advise.
 
 73,
 
 KC2VNI.
 
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/New-K3-User-and-New-Ham-tp4253024p4253024.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
 Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
 Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
 Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Japanese prices ('disgruntled' thread re-titled)

2010-01-04 Thread a yoshida
Hi

I wll foward this message to my blog.

One of  HAPPY users of KX1, K1, K2 and  K3
 73
aki  ja1nlx

Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
 Looks like there is a lot of confusion surrounding K3 pricing in Japan. :-)

 We've worked with EDC in Japan for 10 years. They are a very small 
 company, owned by JA8CCL, that is honorable and that gives support above 
 and beyond what is normally required to their customers. That includes 
 fixing improperly customer built K1s, KX1s, K2s and K3s under their 
 'warranty' at no charge. They are a high value added distributor who 
 does not forget the customer once the sale is made.

 I agree that the prices can look high when just comparing the raw EDC JA 
 price to our web price. What many do not realize is that EDC bears a lot 
 of import and transport expense that would normally be borne by the 
 customer if they buy a product direct.

 The K3 prices listed by EDC also include the following ALL of the 
 following import and support costs that do not appear on our price list 
 here:

 1. The local JA consumption tax. (VAT) In the US this is added to the 
 invoice at time of sale. In JA, EDC shows it already included on their 
 K3 price list.

 2. Import duty entering JA.

 (The above two items are computed based on the total cost of the product 
 on the shipper invoice, including all shipping and handling costs. )

 - EDC can't fly 'under the radar' as many individuals try to do. Like 
 us, they are carefully watched by the import officials and have to be 
 squeaky clean - paying all taxes, duties etc.

 3. Import shipping to JA from CA. (not cheap!)

 4. Cost of handling all the customs paperwork, fee payment etc.
 Especially when importing larger value and size shipments, Japan can be 
 one of the more time consuming bureaucracies to deal with.

 5. Cost of the variation in the Yen - Dollar exchange rate.
 This is significant. The exchange rate has varied between 110 and 90 yen 
 to the dollar over the past 18 months, 22%, and even more so over the 
 past 2-1/2 years. I know of specific periods over the past ten years 
 where EDC has actually lost money importing our products due to shifts 
 in the exchange rate.

 6. Cost of funds to carry inventory. EDC orders many of our products 
 well ahead of time and stocks them at their cost, tying up funds that 
 could be used elsewhere.

 7. Cost to pay for their offices, test equipment and employees.


 EDC also carries all of the cost of advertising in the JA local market. 
 Ads in JA CQ are way more expensive than QST.

 They also translate all of our manuals into Japanese. Not an easy 
 undertaking.

 On top of these costs they also need to make a small profit.  It isn't 
 much, based on what I've observed. (He makes most of his revenue from 
 designing custom medical equipment and custom hard disk drive 
 manufacturing test equipment.)

 To be honest, JA8CCL does this out of his love for the hobby, and out of 
 a personal friendship with me going back 20 years. Once he sells a 
 product to a customer, he supports them for life. Period. He has a large 
 following of loyal customers, many who have emailed us directly to 
 compliment EDC on their support.

 That said, we're also always working with them to try to get the JA EDC 
 price lower. Its a challenge, but we'll keep working on it. There is not 
 a lot of margin to play with in the ham radio market.

 While others have pointed out that its difficult, if not impossible, to 
 buy most JA manufactured top end radios directly from Japan, please 
 let's not let this thread degenerate into a pro-con of one manufacturer 
 or government  against another.

 Rather than tie up the reflector with an extended conversation on this, 
 please feel free to email me directly with any comments and suggestions 
 you might have.

 73, Eric   WA6HHQ
 

   
 Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 13:09:32 -0800
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 From: fumi...@okushi.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

 I would personally prefer to buy from a local distributor, for the exact 
 reason you mention.
 So I'm willing to pay a little extra for that convenience.
 The question is how much will I (or more generally, one) be willing to pay 
 for the additional convenience.

 With regards to ham radio equipment, bands could be different from one 
 country to another (and certainly the case between US and JA), so there's 
 another reason you might want to deal locally.

 Regards,
 Fumi Okushi/KB2KVV

 From: Duncan Carter d...@vibrotek.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
 Date: Mon, 04 Jan 2010 13:51:19 -0700

 
   
 Another consideration is the degree of risk in acting as your own 
 import/export agent. Almost all vendors sell on terms where the buyer 
 is the owner of the equipment once it leave the seller's facility. If 
 there's a problem during transit, it becomes the buyer's problem. 
 Insurance can help but it's not a cure-all; avoidance of claims payment 
 is a 

Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread James Sarte
Dunno. lots of people seem to complain about winding toroids, so I just
assumed they'd be a PITA.  There's even a toroid winding service?!?!?

 

On the other hand, I've never been one to shy away from a challenge.

 

James K2QI

 

  _  

From: Wes Stewart [mailto:n...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 9:12 PM
To: 'Elecraft'; James Sarte
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

 




--- On Mon, 1/4/10, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:

 

I'd have to agree... I'm thinking a K2 would be a nice summer-time project.
Or perhaps *gasp* one of those fandangled DZKit Sienna's. ;-)

Only thing I worry about is winding toroids.  

Why?  What could be simpler?

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread Dale Putnam

shoot... some toroids are wound for free... just pay the shipping...

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread Mike B
Good evening, Steve.  As for item #2, you'll likely find that even with
a 100 AH battery, the voltage will drop rather quickly at 100 watts. 
And as the voltage drops, the current consumption will rise to keep the
output the same, even more rapidly draining the battery.  I would suggest:

1) consider using lower power. You'll likely find that running at 50
watts (or less, particularly on CW or PSK) will net you essentially the
same number of QSOs, at far less power consumption.

2) run 2 batteries in parallel (in this case, 12 volt batteries).  That
will help keep the voltage up by spreading the load across more than one
battery.

3) even if running parallel batteries, consider a battery booster from
MFJ or http://stores.tgelectronics.org/StoreFront.bok  I have not tried
either, but I think QST did a review of 2 models some time back.

By far the easiest (and most common) type of large battery to use is a
sealed lead acid.  Technically called Valve-Regulated Lead Acid, but
more commonly called gel cells or AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat).  While
there are slight charging differences between gel  AGMs which need to
be observed, for our purposes here either will work the same.  These are
NOT automotive batteries, but rather true deep cycle batteries.  Perhaps
you already know this, but automotive batteries have many, thin lead
plates that give a lot of surface area.  This is great for sudden, short
periods of high current draw, like starting your car, but very bad for
long-term discharge (like leaving your headlights or radio on).  True
deep cycle batteries are essentially the opposite, made with fewer but
thicker lead plates, and generally poor at very high current discharges,
but great at running smaller loads long term.

Some AGM batteries on the market now will work as starting batteries,
too, but that's not relevant for our needs.

If you're on a tight budget, a car battery will work at low power for a
while, but you'll quickly want a better battery.  The batteries labeled
as deep cycle at the big stores generally are NOT deep cycle - it's
just marketing.  You'll likely have to go to a real battery store,
though the some of Optima line of batteries are deep cycle, and can be
found at Sears, among other shops.

The gel-  AGM-style batteries are sealed to the point where you can't
add water, but if over-charged will vent gas.  However, with a quality
charger, this is a non-issue and these batteries are approved for
in-home use (think electric scooters and wheelchairs).

This is an example of a quality, American-made AGM battery:
http://www.sunxtender.com/  We've used these at work for our remote
weather sites for the last 5 years or so, and have been quite happy with
them (no financial relation, yada yada yada).  The PVX-1040T size is one
we use; it's rated at around 100 AH (at a 20-hour rate), and tend to
cost around $230.  Not cheap, eh?  There are less expensive brands out
there, typically made in China.  I have zero experience with these.

This is a long email (sorry), but food for thought.  There are lots of
battery choices out there, but since you've picked the top rig, I
thought I'd show you one of the top batteries ;-)  Once you've got your
batteries picked out, get a quality charger.  There's no better way to
destroy any battery than to cook it (or chronically under-charge it)
than with a crappy charger.  I'd even venture to say that if you want to
save money on batteries now, put the money towards a good charger - it
will outlast at least a few sets of batteries.

If you already have a power supply, or simply as another option, West
Mountain Radio's Super PWRGate works well
(http://westmountainradio.com/SuperPWRgate.htm).  It needs a power
source, but has a charging circuit and essentially works as an
uninterruptable power supply for your rig.  I bought one 3 or 4 years
ago, and it's done a great job of maintaining my batteries.

73,
Mike KW1ND
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgruntled Europeans

2010-01-04 Thread Wes Stewart
--- On Mon, 1/4/10, ab2tc ab...@arrl.net wrote:
I do feel bad for my fellow hams in most other  countries who are not as 
fortunate.

Yeah but they get all of that free health care.

Imagine what it would cost them if the US dollar was still a hard currency 
instead of Monopoly money.  And it works against us going the other direction.

For example: I just got back from the post office where I bought sixty 
International first-class airmail stamps for $58.80 and my credit union where I 
got 100 $1.00 bills.  DX hams want two or three dollars now for a direct QSL 
reply, so this
 may cover 60 outgoing QSLs, if I add in the dollar bills in my wallet.




  
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Mon, 4 Jan 2010 17:19:39 -0800 (PST), KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com
wrote:

Howdy Steve,


Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an auto-tuner.
Several basic questions:

1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire antenna
pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree? 


You can save 70 to 90% of what you would pay for a ready made antenna
by building your own.  We are going to build a 40m dipole or inverted
vee:

1. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy some of the yellow egg shaped
electric fence insulators, about 75 or 80 feet of #14 insulated
stranded copper wire and a package of 3/16 inch nylon rope.  Also get
a 3 inch piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe.

2. When you get home, drill a 3/16 inch hole about 1/4 inch from each
end of the PVC pipe.  This is you center insulator.

3. Use one of the following formulas based on the mode you want to
use: 468 / 7.035 for the CW and Data end of the band (66.5 feet) , or
468 / 7.170 (65.3 feet) for the SSB end of the band.  Add 2 feet to
either of the calculations for tying to the insulators and trimming
and cur the wire exactly in half.  Strip 1/2 inch of the insulation
off of one end of each of these wires.

4. Pass the stripped ends of the two wires through the holes you
drilled in the PVC pipe.  Tie the wires to the center insulator
leaving the bare copper of each wire hanging from the insulator about
an inch. It's OK the have 1/2 inch or so of the insulated part of the
wire protruding from the exit side of the insulator.

5. If you already have some 50 ohm coax, strip the outer insulation
off of one end of the coax.  You are going to solder the braid of the
coax to one of the wires and the center of the coax to the other.

6. Put a yellow insulator on each empty end of each wire.

7. If you have two trees far enough apart to support the antenna hang
it up as a dipole by hanging it from each tree with a rope passed
through each end insulator.

8.  If you have only one tree or post, then support the antenna from
the center insulator by hanging a rope over a limb of the tree or some
other support.  Tie the other two ends to the fence on each side of
the yard or in some other manner.  Try to keep the angle at the apex
of the Vee between 90 and 120 degrees if you can.

To add another band just make another two wires cut to the right
length and solder the stripped ends of those wires to the same points
at the center insulator.  It is easier to do this with an inverted vee
than a dipole, but the idea is the same.  No switches needed, no coils
needed the wires that are cut for the band you are transmitting on
will radiate the others won't.

You now have an antenna that will get you on the air while you
investigate other wire antennas you might want to make.

I didn't go into how you trim the antenna to get it to perfect
resonance, but if you have the tuner in the K3 you will be able to
match the antenna without any trouble.

Building and testing wire antennas is one of the most fun parts of
hobby.  If you enjoyed building the first one and want to learn more
about antennas of all kinds you can order the ARRL Antenna Book from
Elecraft or just about any place that sells books.

73,

Tom, N5GE

n...@n5ge.com
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net

  

  
2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer support
from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate at 100W.
What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable? What size
fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the battery?

I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I
don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of a
help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please advise.

73,

KC2VNI.

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 | KXAT1 ATU questions

2010-01-04 Thread John W2XS

Dan - I have the same antenna and the same balun. It is a great combination
from 160m to 10m.  Before I used the balun, however, I used a balanced
Johnson Matchbox. I found that I had to add some length to the original
ladder line (about 18 feet) to get all bands to match (including all of the
WARC bands).  30m was my toughest band, but once I got 30m to match nicely
then all the other bands matched too. So you might try adding some ladder
line to the original feedline.  (Subtracting may also be effective but I
added).

I love QSYing from band to band now with the K3 or K2. The K2 and K3 tuners
remember the settings so I am instantly matched without having to generate
RF.

Good luck.

73,

John W2XS



My configuration was Cobra Senior Ultralight up 60-66’ at one end 45-50’ 
at the other with center up about 55-60’ | 81 feet of 450 ohm ladder 
line runs that runs about 1’ foot through a casement window | Balun 
Designs 4:1 4113t current balun | 3’ coax with 239 – 239 connectors 
[703+] OR an amphenol 239/BNC adapter [KX-1].


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-04 Thread Fred Jensen
Wayne Burdick wrote:
 What I 
 meant was that you *could* make a transverter for these bands and 
 interface it to the K3 via KXV3 module. We don't have plans to offer one 
 ourselves.

I've had a Palomar VLF Converter for years, works really great, and 
better with my K3.  Converts [allegedly] DC to 500 KHz to 3.5 to 4.0 
MHz.  LORAN-C noise here on the US Pacific Coast is a bit of a problem, 
we're fairly close to Middletown CA which has a USCG LORAN station, but 
the loop will null most of it out.  Seems to work good down to about 12 
KHz, then things get mushy.  I think I've even heard the power line 
carrier current telemetry ... we have a 145KV line close to us and I 
know it carries it, we have hydroelectric plants above and below us and 
I can see the chokes in the substations.  That said, I haven't had the 
Palomar on for about a year, maybe I'll hook it up again and see what's 
there.  There was some word [maybe urban legends] that the CG was going 
to shut down LORAN-C in the face of GPS.  I've heard the West Coast 
500KHZ ham beacon several times, can't remember the call now.

I really can't see why Elecraft would want to delve into such a low 
volume market when there are a number of cheap alternatives already out 
there.  I'd rather they work on the solid-state amps :-)

As a High School senior at 16, I got to work ships at sea on 500Kcs from 
a coastal marine station as a relief operator.  The Holy Frequency is 
eerily silent these days compared to then, when it was a sort of 
world-wide party-line.  But, that was then and this is now.  LoFer is 
sort of fun for awhile, but I can't transmit there and the fun tends to 
fade after I've identified all the NDB's I can hear.

73 and a Good New Year to all,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA USA
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Re: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator

2010-01-04 Thread Joe Planisky
Bah!  Winding toroids may be tedious, but it's by no means difficult.   
It's sort of like sewing on buttons.  If you've never done it before,  
the first 1 or 2 are sort of fun.  By the time you've done 10, it's  
not as much fun.  By the time you've done 20, you begin to understand  
why some people are willing to pay someone else to do it. :-)

One of the things that makes it a little frustrating especially with  
the smaller cores (like the T37) is that it can be hard to hold on to  
the thing while winding. I've found that attaching a small cable tie  
(ty-rap) tightly to the core provides a convenient handle.  You can  
even chuck it into a bench vise to leave both hands free to thread the  
wire.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 4, 2010, at 6:21 PM, James Sarte wrote:

 Dunno. lots of people seem to complain about winding toroids, so I  
 just
 assumed they'd be a PITA.  There's even a toroid winding service?!?!?

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Steve, I think you should go to www.radioworks.com and spend some time reading 
about wire antennas.  The reading is free, but buying the antennas takes some 
bucks.  It is worth the reading time even if you decide to buy the antenna 
somewhere else or build one.  The antenna that is best for you depends a lot on 
what you want to do and your installation limitations.  

You don't say why you want to use battery power.  The K3 is more forgiving of 
slightly low voltage than most rigs.  It will operate pretty well down to 11.0 
volts, but it operates better at 13.8 volts or so.  You might be happier with a 
power supply.  I have used a couple of Jetstream switching supplies with mine 
and found them satisfactory.  You might find a birdie or two somewhere, but in 
5,000 or so QSOs with my K3 I don't believe that I have lost a single QSO due 
to a birdie.  I am currently using a Jetstream JTPS35BVCMA that will furnish 30 
amps continuous and will float charge a battery.  I am using a lead acid boat 
battery which seems OK.  I have it in a plastic boat battery box.  It will 
generate some hydrogen, so don't keep it in a closed cabinet.  A gell cell 
would be better, but a 100 amp gel cell is pretty pricy.  But I use the battery 
strictly as a back up and operate from the power supply as a rule.  The advice 
that
 someone gave you to back off to 50 watts or less when operating on battery is 
good advice.  
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 7:19:39 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham


Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an auto-tuner.
Several basic questions:

1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire antenna
pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree? 

2) Battery based power: From speaking with the fellow from customer support
from elecraft, a 100 Amp-Hr battery is what is required to operate at 100W.
What type of battery do I use? Is sealed-lead acid acceptable? What size
fuses do I want on the line running from the radio to the battery?

I recognize that this radio has orders of magnitude of capability that I
don't understand yet. I also recognize that reading the manual will be of a
help here. If you have further resources and/or suggestions, please advise.

73,

KC2VNI.

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[Elecraft] W2 Firmware Suggestion

2010-01-04 Thread Bill Miner
With all the recent discussion about the W2 I decided to actually read the 
on-line manual and check the specs for my self.
 
Upon further reading I discovered that to set the SWR alarm feature it is 
necessary to have a PC connected and to set the alarm each time the unit is 
powered up.
 
If possible, it would be nice to be able to turn on the alarm feature from the 
front panel of the W2 and once set,  have the alarm enable in memory so that it 
was not necessary to do this every time the unit is power cycled..
 
OBTW I am very pleased with the current firmware load for the K3.  
 
Thanks  73,
Bill - K6WLM
K3
K2
KX1


  
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[Elecraft] Torroid winding aid

2010-01-04 Thread Ken Kopp
A list member recently posted a torrid-holding tool made 
from a clothes pin.  Since I can't find the posting,maybe 
he'll re-post the idea.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Torroid winding aid

2010-01-04 Thread Steve Ellington
http://n2.nabble.com/Toroid-Holder-from-a-Clothespin-td4209879.html

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net
Cc: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:16 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Torroid winding aid


A list member recently posted a torrid-holding tool made
 from a clothes pin.  Since I can't find the posting,maybe
 he'll re-post the idea.

 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

2010-01-04 Thread Philippe Trottet
Hum !   
Did Yaesu, Icom or Kenwood are sending their products straight on line and 
provide such attention to their customers ? 
One more reason to be confident with Elecraft, a proud US company !
Great part of the succes is quality of service and Elecraft is on the way to 
carve out a crupper to our usual providers.
They waked up my Ham spirit after too many decades using most of the 
limousine rigs available on the market.
It's time to move to Nascar rigs and challenge for the piston cup . 
Bst 73's  Happy New Year 
Philippe A65BI (F5LTB), ex-9Q1TB for the last exotic one.
K3#3616
By Hams, for Hams, what else !  

 Dick Williams k8...@mho.com 04-01-2010 23:08 
Has anybody tried to buy a Yaesu, Icom or Kenwood direct from Japan without
going thru their dealers in the states?

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 9:49 AM
To: Tom Meier
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese

Tom,

If he buys direct from Elecraft, he will have Tech Support direct from 
Elecraft, so I would guess he does not know his facts.

He may not have access to tech support from the Japanese distributor, 
but that is a different statement.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Meier wrote:
 Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting
a
 very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
 business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for
both
 sales and service.  The problem (according to this operator) is that the
 exclusive dealer is jacking the price up by up to 50%.  Yes, it is true
that
 they can buy the product directly from Elecraft, but doing so puts you
 without access to any tech support.

 Don't know if this is the isolated case of a guy who doesn't have his
facts
 straight and likes to spread rumors.  We've got a few of them in this
 country also.  But thought I'd pass this along.

 73 de Tom (K7ZZ)
   

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

2010-01-04 Thread Rick/WA6ES

Marc
  Well I worked on the winding spacing and got it up to a little over 4
watts, actually 4.4, so that did help. I sent off an email to Elecraft
yesterday when I posted this and no answer yet, maybe I will call them and
talk to Scott there. I have to get a couple of speaker slides, heck those
things are small! I even played with the 40m section and got another watt
out there also!
Can I live with 4.4 watts on 20,maybe, but if I get more pwr out, even
better.

Thanks again for the info
Rick/WA6ES


Marc PE1FJN wrote:
 
 Hello Rick,
 
 HNY2010.
 
 When I had output power problems at 15m, not at 20m, I increased the
 output power by 'tuning' the low pass output filter (L9/L10, L11/L12),
 suggested by ELECRAFT. By bringing windings together I was able to get the
 required output.  It does not look as nice when having the windings evenly
 spread, but in the end the output power is more important. 
 Make sure you have a dummy load when checking Pout, as when VSWR is poor,
 depending of the COAX length you will see high or low max output power on
 display K1. Reason: K1 is measuring Vpeak out, and calculates it back to
 power. So reading on display is only reliable when you have 50ohm, or have
 installed the internal antenna tuner.
 
 Also make sure you have 13.8V, Pout max between 12V and 13.8V makes a
 difference. I run it at 12V, Power is 5W at 15m/20m band, while running at
 13.8V I can easily get up to 7Watt. For me 12V is fine. 
 
 If tuning of the coils does not work, contact elecraft support, and refer
 to power problems from PE1FJN October this year at 15m SN: 2761. I changed
 1 resistor on instructions from ELECRAFT. At this moment I have now no
 access to this mail(sorry), but I'm sure you will be able to get the same
 instructions. Having changed this resistor power was very fine, and not
 marginal anymore. 
 
 Hope this helps,
 
 73
 PE1FJN
 Marc
 K1 SN:2761
 
 PS: Good Luck, at 20m DX is really nice with this RIG.
 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

2010-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rick,

What is your power supply voltage?  The K1 maximum output is quite 
dependent on the supply voltage, so if you are using 12 volts instead of 
13.8 volts, that may explain your 4.4 watt power output limit.

73,
Don W3FPR

Rick/WA6ES wrote:
 Marc
   Well I worked on the winding spacing and got it up to a little over 4
 watts, actually 4.4, so that did help. I sent off an email to Elecraft
 yesterday when I posted this and no answer yet, maybe I will call them and
 talk to Scott there. I have to get a couple of speaker slides, heck those
 things are small! I even played with the 40m section and got another watt
 out there also!
 Can I live with 4.4 watts on 20,maybe, but if I get more pwr out, even
 better.

 Thanks again for the info
 Rick/WA6ES

   

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

2010-01-04 Thread Rick/WA6ES

Hi Don
  13.8v. I get 7 watts on 40m and just want a little more for 20m. I am
happy with the little thing. Actually I was switching between my ft817 and
the K1. Maybe it is me but the K1 heard a little better. Or maybe it is just
me that I made the K1

Rick/WA6ES
K1 SN:2820


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Rick,
 
 What is your power supply voltage?  The K1 maximum output is quite 
 dependent on the supply voltage, so if you are using 12 volts instead of 
 13.8 volts, that may explain your 4.4 watt power output limit.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Rick/WA6ES wrote:
 Marc
   Well I worked on the winding spacing and got it up to a little over 4
 watts, actually 4.4, so that did help. I sent off an email to Elecraft
 yesterday when I posted this and no answer yet, maybe I will call them
 and
 talk to Scott there. I have to get a couple of speaker slides, heck those
 things are small! I even played with the 40m section and got another watt
 out there also!
 Can I live with 4.4 watts on 20,maybe, but if I get more pwr out, even
 better.

 Thanks again for the info
 Rick/WA6ES

   

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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] K1 Low power, Suggestion to increase output power

2010-01-04 Thread Byron Servies
On Jan 4, 2010, at 9:02 PM, Rick/WA6ES wrote:

 Well I worked on the winding spacing and got it up to a little over 4 watts, 
 actually 4.4, so that did help. 

How are you measuring the power output?

With my new K1 using a DL1 and KAT1 I get exactly the number of bars on the TX 
LCD bar graph as I set in the output menu for power output using a 13.8 vold 
power supply, from 2 to 7.  This is true for all 4 bands, with the only 
difference being if I don't tune it takes a few CQ's for the KAT1 to catch up, 
as expected.

Just curious what I might be missing,

Byron KI6NUL
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[Elecraft] K2 VFO Stuck on 40M

2010-01-04 Thread David Little

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread Fred Atchley
Steve, congrats, you are now officially an OM! The ONE thing I'd like to add
about putting up ANY antenna.CAUTION. Power lines in the vicinity of your
home and your antenna are lethal. Please plan ahead and give yourself a wide
margin of safety. It's too easy to get in a hurry and loose sight of those
insignificant little power lines. If you use a metal pole, they can
difficult to manage into a vertical position.

So good luck OM, hope to work you. 73, Fred, AE6IC

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[Elecraft] [K1] Mods...

2010-01-04 Thread John H Farmer
Hello All,

I'm new to the group, so this is to say hello.  I'm happily breathing life
into my  K1 #2822. It arrived for Xmas.  The build is going well and my
toroid winding skills are improving :)

I have a couple of questions about K1 mods:

About the ACG response time mod :  changing C31 to a lower value cap ( from
2.2uF to 1uF or lower) is mentioned most often,
but there is a  variation of opinion whether C67 should be lowered also.
Many of the postings about this are several years old.  I was just wondering
if ideas about this have evolved any further?  

Secondly, I've read on JL3AHK's site, about a mod to increase OP power of
the K1 to a consistent 7W across all bands.  He suggests adding a 0.001uF
cap in parallel with R30 on the RF board. I can't find any reference to this
mod anywhere in the archives.  Any opinions on this mod?

This K1 is my first Elecraft rig. I'm learning lots and having fun.  It's
practice for a K2.

Thanks from down here,

John
VK7JB


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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New Ham

2010-01-04 Thread Wes Stewart
--- On Mon, 1/4/10, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:
The K3 is more forgiving of slightly low voltage than most rigs.  It will 
operate pretty well down to 11.0 volts, but it operates better at 13.8 volts or 
so.  

Please don't do this to your ham neighbors.  Nominal 12V PAs already put out 
too much garbage in the form of IMD at nominal voltage.

Having the finest receiver in the world does no good when the band is cluttered 
with garbage signals.



  
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