Re: [Elecraft] K3 12v ERR - Deoxit

2011-12-13 Thread GW0ETF
Guys,

Thanks for all the replies to my original question below. Had a closer look
at what I have and the 'cleaner' is the D100L (Caig). I got them both from a
HiFi supplier in the UK in 2ml squeeze tubes...about £5 a throw but it goes
a long way!

May have mentioned this before but I use those small interdental brushes to
apply the stuff; if you get some of the really small ones you can get inside
the header sockets as well. This way just a few microlitres can coat
everything...

73,

Stewart, GW0ETF


GW0ETF wrote
 
 Due to an ordering misunderstanding I have 2 different Deoxit versions,
 standard cleaner and Deoxit Gold. According to the instructions the
 cleaner cleans(!) and the Gold is applied post cleaning to prevent any
 subsequent oxidation/tarnishing.  Wonder which everyone's using..?
 
 Not had any problems with the PA module on K3 #145 but plenty with the
 front panel connections which Deoxit fixes.
 
 73,
 
 Stewart, GW0ETF 
 
 
 
 w0mu wrote
 
 I believe you can also purchase a can of deoxit and spray it liberally 
 on the pins and connector side and carefully plug and unplug the board a 
 few times.
 
 Mike W0MU
 
 W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
 
 
 


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[Elecraft] KPA500 in 10 meter contest

2011-12-13 Thread Joe K2UF
I put my KPA500 #576 (built last Mon/Tue) through a workout during the past
weekend contest.  Worked great.  

No clicks that I could hear of course I was using headphones.  I could just
detect a very subtle change in fan speed during runs.  Monitored the temp
during runs at 500 watts (28 watts in) and the temp. would reach about
54/55C.  Not sure if that is high low or normal.  

First time I ever ran 'high' power from home in a contest.  I'm sure I will
get trounced but had fun.

73,  Joe K2UF  

No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons
were inconvenienced.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 blur was a no-show during ARRL 10m

2011-12-13 Thread Lu Romero
I have sent my recording in already.  I heard some in my CW
pileups. Some were zero beat issues but not all.  

-lu-W4LT-




Message: 6
Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2011 10:43:04 -0700
From: David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.com
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 blur was a no-show during ARRL 10m
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: 4ee63d28.5070...@cis-broadband.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


Well, I recorded most of my time in the ARRL 10m contest
this past 
weekend but I didn't save it.  I only had three or four
situations where 
I thought possibly I was hearing some blurring of signals
but they 
weren't definitive at all, and in those cases the signals
were virtually 
zero beat so I chalked it up to that instead.  I was fairly
seriously 
operating the contest (about 1,000 CW contacts) and running
a frequency 
most of the time so I didn't go looking for other examples,
and I was 
running low power so I rarely had more than three callers at
a time.

I was all primed to adjust RF Gain and manually switch
roofing filters 
if the effect occurred, but it didn't for me this time. 
Sorry I 
couldn't come up with an example.

Anyone else capture anything?

73,
Dave   AB7E






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Re: [Elecraft] K3 12v ERR Deoxit 5%

2011-12-13 Thread ve3dvy
We use Deoxit here at work at Xerox where I am in the service area. When
using deoxit over the years it has been found to be excellent but after some
years after its application issues have arisen mostly due to over
application.  Some time ago, to solve this we switched from the 100%
solution to the 5% solution d5l   and found that it worked as well with
less issues over time because of the much lower residue and better
cleaning/flushing.   This is really great stuff.  its also great on Vintage
gear.

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[Elecraft] K2 for sale

2011-12-13 Thread ghaffly
Group , This is a relist of a K2 for sale posted 6 weeks ago.

K2 serial # 4869 Built and used by a non smoker. Cabinet is at least a 9 out of 
10. Aligned with spectrogram.
Includes the following options :
KSB2 SSB adapter
KDSP2 DSP filter
KNB2 Noise blanker
KIO2 AUX module
KAT2 Antenna tuner
K160RX 160 meter module
All manuals will be included.

Asking $1050 and I will ship. Please reply off list.

Glenn , K5ZE
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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Ken K3IU
If there is not a felt washer between the VFO knob and the 
panel, then that is your problem. I have never experienced 
the noise that you describe after operating about 6 
different K3s.
73, Ken K3IU

On 12/13/2011 11:03 AM, Natan Huffman wrote:
 Hello All,

 Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
 accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date is
 noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or eliminate
 the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and I
 do find that noise most objectionable.
 Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
 left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or no
 drag.  No drag leaves me with a
 surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
 leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.

 Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
 solution?

 Thanks,



 Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
 Freeville, NY
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[Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Natan Huffman
Hello All,

Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date is
noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or eliminate
the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and I
do find that noise most objectionable.
Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or no
drag.  No drag leaves me with a
surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.

Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
solution?

Thanks,



Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
Freeville, NY
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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
That's something entirely new, Natan, and not normal for a K3. The pad
between the knob and the front panel should be nothing but a soft felt
washer, virtually noiseless as the knob turns. 

Is there anything else there?

If not, recommend that you drop an e-mail to K3support (at) Elecraft (dot)
com. You'll get a quick response. 

73,

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Natan Huffman
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 8:03 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

Hello All,

Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date is
noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or eliminate
the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and I
do find that noise most objectionable.
Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or no
drag.  No drag leaves me with a
surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.

Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
solution?

Thanks,



Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
Freeville, NY
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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Keith Heimbold
My newly acquired K3 makes this VFO noise as well for the VFO A knob. It is 
only annoying when I have the headphones off. 

Keith

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 13, 2011, at 8:28 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

 That's something entirely new, Natan, and not normal for a K3. The pad
 between the knob and the front panel should be nothing but a soft felt
 washer, virtually noiseless as the knob turns. 
 
 Is there anything else there?
 
 If not, recommend that you drop an e-mail to K3support (at) Elecraft (dot)
 com. You'll get a quick response. 
 
 73,
 
 Ron AC7AC
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Natan Huffman
 Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 8:03 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's
 
 Hello All,
 
 Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
 accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date is
 noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or eliminate
 the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and I
 do find that noise most objectionable.
 Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
 left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or no
 drag.  No drag leaves me with a
 surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
 leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.
 
 Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
 solution?
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 
 Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
 Freeville, NY
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Heat Expansion Pop

2011-12-13 Thread iain macdonnell - N6ML
I don't think there are any 1/4 4-40 flat head screws in the K3
(either) ... ? There are 1/4 pan heads, but flat heads are 3/16 or
5/16 (IIRC)

~iain / N6ML


On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 9:04 PM, n...@widomaker.com n...@widomaker.com wrote:
 How about spares from the K3 kit?

 ...bc. nr4c

 Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE Phone

 -Original message-
 From: KD2A rvr...@verizon.net
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tue, Dec 13, 2011 03:27:34 GMT+00:00
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Heat Expansion Pop

 My amp has been click free for four days now. To clarify, page 22 Fig.27,
 is the area I'm referring to. Change the five 5/16 screws to 3/16 when
 mounting the Z-bracket on the PA/LPF module. I also would have preferred to
 use 1/4 screws but none come with the kit.

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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Is there felt behind the knobs?73, Guy.

On Tue, Dec 13, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com wrote:

 My newly acquired K3 makes this VFO noise as well for the VFO A knob. It
 is only annoying when I have the headphones off.

 Keith

 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

 On Dec 13, 2011, at 8:28 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:

  That's something entirely new, Natan, and not normal for a K3. The pad
  between the knob and the front panel should be nothing but a soft felt
  washer, virtually noiseless as the knob turns.
 
  Is there anything else there?
 
  If not, recommend that you drop an e-mail to K3support (at) Elecraft
 (dot)
  com. You'll get a quick response.
 
  73,
 
  Ron AC7AC
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Natan Huffman
  Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 8:03 AM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's
 
  Hello All,
 
  Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
  accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date
 is
  noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or
 eliminate
  the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and
 I
  do find that noise most objectionable.
  Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
  left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or
 no
  drag.  No drag leaves me with a
  surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
  leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.
 
  Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
  solution?
 
  Thanks,
 
 
 
  Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
  Freeville, NY
  __
 
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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Keith Heimbold
I will have to check it this weekend. I got the rig fully assembled.

Keith

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 13, 2011, at 9:35 AM, Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Is there felt behind the knobs?73, Guy.
 
 On Tue, Dec 13, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com wrote:
 My newly acquired K3 makes this VFO noise as well for the VFO A knob. It is 
 only annoying when I have the headphones off.
 
 Keith
 
 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
 
 On Dec 13, 2011, at 8:28 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
 
  That's something entirely new, Natan, and not normal for a K3. The pad
  between the knob and the front panel should be nothing but a soft felt
  washer, virtually noiseless as the knob turns.
 
  Is there anything else there?
 
  If not, recommend that you drop an e-mail to K3support (at) Elecraft (dot)
  com. You'll get a quick response.
 
  73,
 
  Ron AC7AC
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Natan Huffman
  Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 8:03 AM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's
 
  Hello All,
 
  Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
  accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date is
  noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or eliminate
  the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and I
  do find that noise most objectionable.
  Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
  left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or no
  drag.  No drag leaves me with a
  surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
  leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.
 
  Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
  solution?
 
  Thanks,
 
 
 
  Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
  Freeville, NY
  __
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 blur was a no-show during ARRL 10m

2011-12-13 Thread David Gilbert

Any chance you could upload that recording to some place where we could 
all access it?  It would be nice to be able to compare perceptions.  If 
you edited the file to isolate the occurrences it shouldn't be too large.

73,
Dave   AB7E



On 12/13/2011 6:16 AM, Lu Romero wrote:
 I have sent my recording in already.  I heard some in my CW
 pileups. Some were zero beat issues but not all.

 -lu-W4LT-

 


 Message: 6
 Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2011 10:43:04 -0700
 From: David Gilbertxda...@cis-broadband.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 blur was a no-show during ARRL 10m
 To: Elecraft Reflectorelecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID:4ee63d28.5070...@cis-broadband.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


 Well, I recorded most of my time in the ARRL 10m contest
 this past
 weekend but I didn't save it.  I only had three or four
 situations where
 I thought possibly I was hearing some blurring of signals
 but they
 weren't definitive at all, and in those cases the signals
 were virtually
 zero beat so I chalked it up to that instead.  I was fairly
 seriously
 operating the contest (about 1,000 CW contacts) and running
 a frequency
 most of the time so I didn't go looking for other examples,
 and I was
 running low power so I rarely had more than three callers at
 a time.

 I was all primed to adjust RF Gain and manually switch
 roofing filters
 if the effect occurred, but it didn't for me this time.
 Sorry I
 couldn't come up with an example.

 Anyone else capture anything?

 73,
 Dave   AB7E







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Re: [Elecraft] K3 blur was a no-show during ARRL 10m

2011-12-13 Thread Oliver Dröse
I would like to hear you it, too, Lu.

If you don't have any webspace please feel free to send it to me by mail and 
I will gladly upload it on my site and provide the download link for the 
list ...

Vy 73, Olli - DH8BQA
http://www.dh8bqa.de




- Original Message - 
From: David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.com
To: lrom...@ij.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 blur was a no-show during ARRL 10m



 Any chance you could upload that recording to some place where we could
 all access it?  It would be nice to be able to compare perceptions.  If
 you edited the file to isolate the occurrences it shouldn't be too large.

 73,
 Dave   AB7E



 On 12/13/2011 6:16 AM, Lu Romero wrote:
 I have sent my recording in already.  I heard some in my CW
 pileups. Some were zero beat issues but not all.

 -lu-W4LT-

 


 Message: 6
 Date: Mon, 12 Dec 2011 10:43:04 -0700
 From: David Gilbertxda...@cis-broadband.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 blur was a no-show during ARRL 10m
 To: Elecraft Reflectorelecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Message-ID:4ee63d28.5070...@cis-broadband.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


 Well, I recorded most of my time in the ARRL 10m contest
 this past
 weekend but I didn't save it.  I only had three or four
 situations where
 I thought possibly I was hearing some blurring of signals
 but they
 weren't definitive at all, and in those cases the signals
 were virtually
 zero beat so I chalked it up to that instead.  I was fairly
 seriously
 operating the contest (about 1,000 CW contacts) and running
 a frequency
 most of the time so I didn't go looking for other examples,
 and I was
 running low power so I rarely had more than three callers at
 a time.

 I was all primed to adjust RF Gain and manually switch
 roofing filters
 if the effect occurred, but it didn't for me this time.
 Sorry I
 couldn't come up with an example.

 Anyone else capture anything?

 73,
 Dave   AB7E







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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Jim Brown
On 12/12/2011 5:10 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
 Yes, chokes like these would be a great choice for use at the feedpoint
 of ANY HF antenna, whether fed with coax or parallel conductor line.

One VERY important exception that I forgot to mention is that common 
mode chokes can be destructively overheated by running high power into 
badly unbalanced antennas. Off-center fed antennas like Windoms can 
place VERY high common mode voltages across common mode chokes. The only 
solution I know of is to use multiple chokes in series on the feedline 
IMO, this sort of antenna is a poor choice in today's world, where local 
RF noise is made worse by pickup on the feedline.

A few years ago, I investigated this by  modeling the common mode 
voltage, and the resulting heat dissipation, in a common mode choke at 
the feedpoint of a 40M dipole whose feedpoint was moved off center in 
increments of 3 ft, at 1.5kW, fed by a half wavelength of coax (67 ft).  
At this worst case feedline length, you don't have to go very far off 
center to produce a lot of heat in the choke.  The results are 
summarized in a table in a Power Point for a presentation I've done for 
several ham clubs.  One of these bifilar chokes would be OK on a Windom 
at the 600W level produced by the KPA500, but could fail at max legal 
power. See page 43 of

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/CoaxChokesPPT.pdf

73, Jim Brown K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Dean Straw

Jim Brown said:
Mon, 12 Dec 2011 17:10:36 -0800
 
 I have not attempted to measure the Zo of the bifilar wound chokes I've 
 built using #12 and #14 THHN, but Jerry Sevick, in the last of his 
 books, did wind some using exactly that method and that wire, and he 
 says the Zo of those he wound were about 100 ohms. 

This is a useful data point. (I've got to rummage through my library to find
the Sevick book.) 

I used a bifilar wound CM choke at the input of the ARRL high-powered tuner
described in late editions of The ARRL Antenna Book. It had 12 bifilar
turns of #10 AWG Formvar wire on a 24-inch diameter OD Type 43 core.
(Nowadays I'd probably use a more optimal Type 31 mix.) In testing the input
balun (aka CM choke) 1500 W of RF at 29.7 MHz was applied for 60 seconds.
The #10 wire in the balun got warm to the touch (after the RF was shut off!)
but the core remained cool, as it should when there are no common-mode
currents, only differential-mode current in the bifilar-wound transmission
line.

Now, #10 wire is roughly the same size as the inner conductor used in
RG-213. On 10 meters the majority of loss in the bifilar transmission line
wound around the torroid will be I-squared-R conductor loss, rather than
additional dielectric losses that come into effect in the VHF and UHF
regions. So, I then assume that the matched-line loss in the bifilar-wound
transmission line is the same as that for RG-213 at HF so that I can do
computations using TLW. 

I then used the User-Defined Transmission Lines capability in TLW as
follows: Frequency = 28.0 MHz; Matched-Line Attenuation, dB/100 Feet =
1.142, Velocity Factor = 0.95; R0 = 100 ohms; Computed X0 = -0.698 ohms.
Again, a total length of three feet is assumed for the bifilar-wound
transmission line.

For a 3000 + j 0 load, TLW reports additional line loss due to SWR (which is
30:1) of 0.416 dB, a power loss in the balun  of 137.0 W for a 1500-W
transmitter. This level of dissipation in a physically small package will
result in catostrophic destruction when the balun is placed at the output of
the tuner.

For a 3 + j 0 ohm load, the SWR is 33.33:1, and the total line loss is 0.449
dB, amounting to 147.3 W dissipation in the balun -- again, this amount of
power in the CM choke balun would surely destroy it. The use a a
bifilar-wound transmission line instead of RG-213 has resulted in a slightly
greater susceptibility to catosphrophic destruction at low-impedance loads
when the balun is placed at the output of the tuner.

For a 5 + j 0 load (a 10:1 SWR), the total line loss is 0.274 dB, which for
1500 W is 91.7 W for 1500 W input, or 30.6 W for 500 W RF input. This would
be about the limit of safe operation for a CM choke balun placed at the
output terminals of an antenna tuner.

73, Dean, N6BV


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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Jim Brown
On 12/13/2011 10:43 AM, Dean Straw wrote:
 I used a bifilar wound CM choke at the input of the ARRL high-powered tuner
 described in late editions of The ARRL Antenna Book. It had 12 bifilar
 turns of #10 AWG Formvar wire on a 24-inch diameter OD Type 43 core.

Jerry said that Zo for this sort of wire and winding style was about 50 
ohms.  I wound some that way, and they acted like they were close to 50 
ohms (as observed by SWR measurements) when inserted between TX and tuner.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 I used a bifilar wound CM choke at the input of the ARRL
 high-powered tuner described in late editions of The ARRL Antenna
 Book. It had 12 bifilar turns of #10 AWG Formvar wire on a 24-inch
 diameter OD Type 43 core. (Nowadays I'd probably use a more optimal
 Type 31 mix.) In testing the input balun (aka CM choke) 1500 W of RF
 at 29.7 MHz was applied for 60 seconds. The #10 wire in the balun
 got warm to the touch (after the RF was shut off!) but the core
 remained cool, as it should when there are no common-mode currents,
 only differential-mode current in the bifilar-wound transmission
 line.

Moving this discussion away from the tuner and to the feedpoint of the
antenna ... I would never use a bifilar wound CM choke with a high HF
antenna.  Years ago I tried to use a well known, third party high power
balun on a triband antenna with a reputation for blowing its OEM
(fuse) balun.  That attempt was spectacularly unsuccessful on 15 meters
where the 90-100 Ohm Zo of the bifilar winding coupled with a line
length of slightly over 12 feet transformed the normally benign 50
Ohm SWR of the antenna into something that was poor across the entire
band.

With an antenna supporting more than three bands, it is likely that
the transformer effect would impact at least one band!

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 12/13/2011 1:43 PM, Dean Straw wrote:

 Jim Brown said:
 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 17:10:36 -0800

 I have not attempted to measure the Zo of the bifilar wound chokes I've
 built using #12 and #14 THHN, but Jerry Sevick, in the last of his
 books, did wind some using exactly that method and that wire, and he
 says the Zo of those he wound were about 100 ohms.

 This is a useful data point. (I've got to rummage through my library to find
 the Sevick book.)

 I used a bifilar wound CM choke at the input of the ARRL high-powered tuner
 described in late editions of The ARRL Antenna Book. It had 12 bifilar
 turns of #10 AWG Formvar wire on a 24-inch diameter OD Type 43 core.
 (Nowadays I'd probably use a more optimal Type 31 mix.) In testing the input
 balun (aka CM choke) 1500 W of RF at 29.7 MHz was applied for 60 seconds.
 The #10 wire in the balun got warm to the touch (after the RF was shut off!)
 but the core remained cool, as it should when there are no common-mode
 currents, only differential-mode current in the bifilar-wound transmission
 line.

 Now, #10 wire is roughly the same size as the inner conductor used in
 RG-213. On 10 meters the majority of loss in the bifilar transmission line
 wound around the torroid will be I-squared-R conductor loss, rather than
 additional dielectric losses that come into effect in the VHF and UHF
 regions. So, I then assume that the matched-line loss in the bifilar-wound
 transmission line is the same as that for RG-213 at HF so that I can do
 computations using TLW.

 I then used the User-Defined Transmission Lines capability in TLW as
 follows: Frequency = 28.0 MHz; Matched-Line Attenuation, dB/100 Feet =
 1.142, Velocity Factor = 0.95; R0 = 100 ohms; Computed X0 = -0.698 ohms.
 Again, a total length of three feet is assumed for the bifilar-wound
 transmission line.

 For a 3000 + j 0 load, TLW reports additional line loss due to SWR (which is
 30:1) of 0.416 dB, a power loss in the balun  of 137.0 W for a 1500-W
 transmitter. This level of dissipation in a physically small package will
 result in catostrophic destruction when the balun is placed at the output of
 the tuner.

 For a 3 + j 0 ohm load, the SWR is 33.33:1, and the total line loss is 0.449
 dB, amounting to 147.3 W dissipation in the balun -- again, this amount of
 power in the CM choke balun would surely destroy it. The use a a
 bifilar-wound transmission line instead of RG-213 has resulted in a slightly
 greater susceptibility to catosphrophic destruction at low-impedance loads
 when the balun is placed at the output of the tuner.

 For a 5 + j 0 load (a 10:1 SWR), the total line loss is 0.274 dB, which for
 1500 W is 91.7 W for 1500 W input, or 30.6 W for 500 W RF input. This would
 be about the limit of safe operation for a CM choke balun placed at the
 output terminals of an antenna tuner.

 73, Dean, N6BV


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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Pete Smith
Recently, my VFOA knob got a little wobbly, and then it started dragging 
heavily, only when turned clockwise.  I took the knob off and discovered 
that the top one of the two control nuts had worked loose entirely, and 
the bottom one was loose.  Tightened them back up and readjusted the 
drag, and everything was fine again.  Perhaps yours is another variation 
on this theme.

73, Pete N4ZR

The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000 AND now
at arcluster.reversebeacon.net port 7000



On 12/13/2011 11:40 AM, Keith Heimbold wrote:
 My newly acquired K3 makes this VFO noise as well for the VFO A knob. It is 
 only annoying when I have the headphones off.

 Keith

 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

 On Dec 13, 2011, at 8:28 AM, Ron D'Eau Clairer...@cobi.biz  wrote:

 That's something entirely new, Natan, and not normal for a K3. The pad
 between the knob and the front panel should be nothing but a soft felt
 washer, virtually noiseless as the knob turns.

 Is there anything else there?

 If not, recommend that you drop an e-mail to K3support (at) Elecraft (dot)
 com. You'll get a quick response.

 73,

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Natan Huffman
 Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 8:03 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

 Hello All,

 Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
 accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date is
 noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or eliminate
 the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and I
 do find that noise most objectionable.
 Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
 left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or no
 drag.  No drag leaves me with a
 surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
 leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.

 Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
 solution?

 Thanks,



 Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
 Freeville, NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Alan Bloom
 Now, #10 wire is roughly the same size as the inner conductor used in
 RG-213. On 10 meters the majority of loss in the bifilar transmission
 line wound around the torroid will be I-squared-R conductor loss,
 rather than additional dielectric losses that come into effect in
 the VHF and UHF regions. So, I then assume that the matched-line
 loss in the bifilar-wound transmission line is the same as that for
 RG-213 at HF so that I can do computations using TLW. 

Is that a valid assumption?  I thought that much of the loss in coax is
due to the dielectric loss of the insulation.  That implies that the
bifilar winding should have less loss than coax.

Alan


On Tue, 2011-12-13 at 10:43 -0800, Dean Straw wrote:
 Jim Brown said:
 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 17:10:36 -0800
  
  I have not attempted to measure the Zo of the bifilar wound chokes I've 
  built using #12 and #14 THHN, but Jerry Sevick, in the last of his 
  books, did wind some using exactly that method and that wire, and he 
  says the Zo of those he wound were about 100 ohms. 
 
 This is a useful data point. (I've got to rummage through my library to find
 the Sevick book.) 
 
 I used a bifilar wound CM choke at the input of the ARRL high-powered tuner
 described in late editions of The ARRL Antenna Book. It had 12 bifilar
 turns of #10 AWG Formvar wire on a 24-inch diameter OD Type 43 core.
 (Nowadays I'd probably use a more optimal Type 31 mix.) In testing the input
 balun (aka CM choke) 1500 W of RF at 29.7 MHz was applied for 60 seconds.
 The #10 wire in the balun got warm to the touch (after the RF was shut off!)
 but the core remained cool, as it should when there are no common-mode
 currents, only differential-mode current in the bifilar-wound transmission
 line.
 
 Now, #10 wire is roughly the same size as the inner conductor used in
 RG-213. On 10 meters the majority of loss in the bifilar transmission line
 wound around the torroid will be I-squared-R conductor loss, rather than
 additional dielectric losses that come into effect in the VHF and UHF
 regions. So, I then assume that the matched-line loss in the bifilar-wound
 transmission line is the same as that for RG-213 at HF so that I can do
 computations using TLW. 
 
 I then used the User-Defined Transmission Lines capability in TLW as
 follows: Frequency = 28.0 MHz; Matched-Line Attenuation, dB/100 Feet =
 1.142, Velocity Factor = 0.95; R0 = 100 ohms; Computed X0 = -0.698 ohms.
 Again, a total length of three feet is assumed for the bifilar-wound
 transmission line.
 
 For a 3000 + j 0 load, TLW reports additional line loss due to SWR (which is
 30:1) of 0.416 dB, a power loss in the balun  of 137.0 W for a 1500-W
 transmitter. This level of dissipation in a physically small package will
 result in catostrophic destruction when the balun is placed at the output of
 the tuner.
 
 For a 3 + j 0 ohm load, the SWR is 33.33:1, and the total line loss is 0.449
 dB, amounting to 147.3 W dissipation in the balun -- again, this amount of
 power in the CM choke balun would surely destroy it. The use a a
 bifilar-wound transmission line instead of RG-213 has resulted in a slightly
 greater susceptibility to catosphrophic destruction at low-impedance loads
 when the balun is placed at the output of the tuner.
 
 For a 5 + j 0 load (a 10:1 SWR), the total line loss is 0.274 dB, which for
 1500 W is 91.7 W for 1500 W input, or 30.6 W for 500 W RF input. This would
 be about the limit of safe operation for a CM choke balun placed at the
 output terminals of an antenna tuner.
 
 73, Dean, N6BV
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] More precise pitch options?

2011-12-13 Thread Gary Smith
I've gotten more than a few off list comments on this and every one 
has been a good read. I put the idea out and apparently it resonated 
(pun intended) with many on the list.

If you want to see just how connected you are to perfect pitch, how 
well you can identify random sequences in notes and how good your 
ability to discern rhythm then check out this web page and click on 
the Music Tests. You will need Java to run the tests. Fwiw, 
according to the adaptive pitch test  using my Bose QC15 headsets 
at 61 YO I can reliably discriminate to .23 Hz. I don't have perfect 
pitch but it is pretty close.

As to the K3, I love the diversity mode on the low bands.

Gary
KA1J
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[Elecraft] KAT2 found

2011-12-13 Thread bob
Thanks to all who responded, I now have my KAT2.

73 Bob w7wo

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 blur was a no-show during ARRL 10m

2011-12-13 Thread Bruce Beford
I have read with great interest the threads regarding mush or blur that
some have experienced in pile-up situations where several callers were near
or at the noise level, and all blended together. 

I am not qualified to say whether or not I have experienced this specific
artifact. However, during last weekend's 10M contest I experienced some
interesting phenomena while working each day (at a leisurely pace) for about
3 hours on CW only. 

My antenna at the time was a 176ft doublet fed with ladder line, from the
K3/KPA500 (amp was not really needed, but it was there). I would
occasionally switch to a coax-fed G5RV at 90 degrees to, and below the
176fter. 

As these antennas are not unidirectional, I would often hear stations
short-path and long path at the same time, which would add to the perceived
blur or mush.

It was also QUITE interesting to hear MYSELF call, as my own signal returned
to my receiver after circling the globe. The smooth QSK in the K3 made this
quite apparent.

Great fun.

72/73,
Bruce N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 blur was a no-show during ARRL 10m

2011-12-13 Thread Robert Bajuk
Hi Bruce,

It was really interesting... I was QRV for about 4 hours during ARRL 10m as
S50G (CW only) and it was interesting to hear last part of my transmission
(something like ET) after CQ... TEST. At the begging I was not sure what is
really happening with my K3  :-)

73 Robert, S57AW

It was also QUITE interesting to hear MYSELF call, as my own signal returned
 to my receiver after circling the globe. The smooth QSK in the K3 made this
 quite apparent.

 Great fun.

 72/73,
 Bruce N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Dale Boresz
Hello Natan,

I can hear the same thing here. Decent high frequency hearing and a 
reasonably quiet shack are prerequisites to hearing it though. It's a 
'sh' sound that occurs as a result of the surface of the knob 
dragging against the felt as the VFO knob is spun. I've considered 
applying a light coat of mineral oil to the felt washer to quiet it 
down, but haven't tried it yet. NOTE: I am not recommending this; I was 
just thinking about trying it...

73, Dale
WA8SRA



On 12/13/2011 11:03 AM, Natan Huffman wrote:
 Hello All,

 Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
 accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date is
 noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or eliminate
 the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and I
 do find that noise most objectionable.
 Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
 left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or no
 drag.  No drag leaves me with a
 surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
 leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.

 Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
 solution?

 Thanks,



 Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
 Freeville, NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Dean Straw
Joe:

Right on -- certain unnamed baluns had a quite reputation as being RF fuses.

But as the suject title above says, I'm still talking about the pros and
cons of placing a CM choke balun at the input or at the output of an
unbalancing antena tuner to feed balanced lines. Both positions are valid
ones, and like most engineering matters there are tradeoffs to both
approaches. Some tradeoffs involve significant smoke and flames... !

73, Dean, N6BV

-Original Message-
From: Joe Subich, W4TV [mailto:li...@subich.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 11:21 AM
To: Dean Straw
Cc: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner


 I used a bifilar wound CM choke at the input of the ARRL high-powered 
 tuner described in late editions of The ARRL Antenna Book. It had 12 
 bifilar turns of #10 AWG Formvar wire on a 24-inch diameter OD Type 43 
 core. (Nowadays I'd probably use a more optimal Type 31 mix.) In 
 testing the input balun (aka CM choke) 1500 W of RF at 29.7 MHz was 
 applied for 60 seconds. The #10 wire in the balun got warm to the 
 touch (after the RF was shut off!) but the core remained cool, as it 
 should when there are no common-mode currents, only differential-mode 
 current in the bifilar-wound transmission line.

Moving this discussion away from the tuner and to the feedpoint of the
antenna ... I would never use a bifilar wound CM choke with a high HF
antenna.  Years ago I tried to use a well known, third party high power
balun on a triband antenna with a reputation for blowing its OEM
(fuse) balun.  That attempt was spectacularly unsuccessful on 15 meters
where the 90-100 Ohm Zo of the bifilar winding coupled with a line length
of slightly over 12 feet transformed the normally benign 50 Ohm SWR of the
antenna into something that was poor across the entire band.

With an antenna supporting more than three bands, it is likely that the
transformer effect would impact at least one band!

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 12/13/2011 1:43 PM, Dean Straw wrote:

 Jim Brown said:
 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 17:10:36 -0800

 I have not attempted to measure the Zo of the bifilar wound chokes 
 I've built using #12 and #14 THHN, but Jerry Sevick, in the last of 
 his books, did wind some using exactly that method and that wire, and 
 he says the Zo of those he wound were about 100 ohms.

 This is a useful data point. (I've got to rummage through my library 
 to find the Sevick book.)

 I used a bifilar wound CM choke at the input of the ARRL high-powered 
 tuner described in late editions of The ARRL Antenna Book. It had 12 
 bifilar turns of #10 AWG Formvar wire on a 24-inch diameter OD Type 43
core.
 (Nowadays I'd probably use a more optimal Type 31 mix.) In testing the 
 input balun (aka CM choke) 1500 W of RF at 29.7 MHz was applied for 60
seconds.
 The #10 wire in the balun got warm to the touch (after the RF was shut 
 off!) but the core remained cool, as it should when there are no 
 common-mode currents, only differential-mode current in the 
 bifilar-wound transmission line.

 Now, #10 wire is roughly the same size as the inner conductor used in 
 RG-213. On 10 meters the majority of loss in the bifilar transmission 
 line wound around the torroid will be I-squared-R conductor loss, 
 rather than additional dielectric losses that come into effect in the 
 VHF and UHF regions. So, I then assume that the matched-line loss in 
 the bifilar-wound transmission line is the same as that for RG-213 at 
 HF so that I can do computations using TLW.

 I then used the User-Defined Transmission Lines capability in TLW as
 follows: Frequency = 28.0 MHz; Matched-Line Attenuation, dB/100 Feet = 
 1.142, Velocity Factor = 0.95; R0 = 100 ohms; Computed X0 = -0.698 ohms.
 Again, a total length of three feet is assumed for the bifilar-wound 
 transmission line.

 For a 3000 + j 0 load, TLW reports additional line loss due to SWR 
 (which is
 30:1) of 0.416 dB, a power loss in the balun  of 137.0 W for a 1500-W 
 transmitter. This level of dissipation in a physically small package 
 will result in catostrophic destruction when the balun is placed at 
 the output of the tuner.

 For a 3 + j 0 ohm load, the SWR is 33.33:1, and the total line loss is 
 0.449 dB, amounting to 147.3 W dissipation in the balun -- again, this 
 amount of power in the CM choke balun would surely destroy it. The use 
 a a bifilar-wound transmission line instead of RG-213 has resulted in 
 a slightly greater susceptibility to catosphrophic destruction at 
 low-impedance loads when the balun is placed at the output of the tuner.

 For a 5 + j 0 load (a 10:1 SWR), the total line loss is 0.274 dB, 
 which for
 1500 W is 91.7 W for 1500 W input, or 30.6 W for 500 W RF input. This 
 would be about the limit of safe operation for a CM choke balun placed 
 at the output terminals of an antenna tuner.

 73, Dean, N6BV


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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread David Herring
Aloha Jim, Joe, Alan, Dean and the rest of the reflector,

I'm thoroughly enjoying reading this thread.

I'd like to ask a few questions.

Mine is a 100 watt station, but with aspirations of getting a KPA-500 
eventually. I have a Palstar BT1500A Balanced L Antenna Tuner feeding a 
vertical dipole fed with 450 window line.  The antenna is crafted from one 
continuous length of window line, the dipole being formed by splitting the last 
30-some-odd feet of the window line and attaching it to a 40 foot fiberglass 
pole. This antenna is used only for 30 meters and higher. I believe Palstar 
puts their balun at the input of this tuner.  I have a fairly small amount of 
RF in the shack.

I read one of you advocate the use of a CM choke at the feed point of an 
antenna, even if it's being fed with a balanced feed line.  I had never 
considered that, so the notion of a cm choke with a balanced feed line is a new 
one to me (but seems logical enough). If I understand correctly, that will 
minimize common mode currents on the feed line, just as it would with coax, and 
that may very well help to minimize the little bit of RF in the shack I seem to 
have.

Then there was discussion of placing one at the output of the tuner, but then I 
read about the one at the tuner output being heat stressed and prone to fail ( 
? )  

My initial thought was if I'm guarding from common mode currents, maybe one 
would want to put a CM choke at both the feed point and the tuner output.

My questions are basically these:  would it be advisable to use CM chokes at 
both positions? (for me, the one at the tuner output would likely be outside, 
thus electrically 5 feet from the physical tuner)  What about the heat 
dissipation and stress on the tuner output side CM choke - it sounds like a 
show stopper to me but maybe you can provide some perspective on this?  If in 
this case only one cm choke is necessary or recommended, are we able to come to 
some consensus as to which position is best, at least in general?

Again, I'm thoroughly enjoying this thread and thanks a lot for sharing this 
with us.

73  Aloha,

Dave
AH6TD


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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Jerry Sevick used a monster T400A-2 toroid, #2 powdered iron, 4 inches in
diameter, intended to be the 4:1 up transformation for the back of high
power tuners. (Sevick, Understanding Baluns 2003, CQ Communications, pp
60-61)  I have run these some times with brick-on-key 1500 watts and never
managed to get heat.  I've never personally managed to construct anything
that would stress one of these.

I'm currently using a 17 turn trifilar winding on a T400A-2 as a 4:1
isolation transformer (not a balun, no direct connection between primary
and secondary) feeding the 90 ohm base of my 160m 3/8 wave inverted L plus
folded counterpoise to 360 ohm 450 window line (Wireman #554).
 Particularly with the significant capacitive reactance of the
counterpoise, I was definitely expecting this would put some serious heat
on the core QRO, and maybe invalidate the concept, but I have gone 15 min
QRO BOK, immediately walked out to the base, and the core was stone cold.
 The whole thing seemed cold. There was a little bit of condensation
visible inside the teflon tubing beforehand, and the BOK did not cause it
to evaporate.  I really don't know why it didn't heat up, but I'll take it.
 Thing is a killer ant.

So I'm thinking if you put up Jerry's 20 turn bifilar on a T400A2 as a
Ruthroff balun and slap it on the back of a tuner, that you're going to be
very hard pressed to warm it up with ordinary stuff.

73, Guy.

On Tue, Dec 13, 2011 at 1:43 PM, Dean Straw n...@arrl.net wrote:


 Jim Brown said:
 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 17:10:36 -0800

  I have not attempted to measure the Zo of the bifilar wound chokes I've
  built using #12 and #14 THHN, but Jerry Sevick, in the last of his
  books, did wind some using exactly that method and that wire, and he
  says the Zo of those he wound were about 100 ohms.

 This is a useful data point. (I've got to rummage through my library to
 find
 the Sevick book.)

 I used a bifilar wound CM choke at the input of the ARRL high-powered tuner
 described in late editions of The ARRL Antenna Book. It had 12 bifilar
 turns of #10 AWG Formvar wire on a 24-inch diameter OD Type 43 core.
 (Nowadays I'd probably use a more optimal Type 31 mix.) In testing the
 input
 balun (aka CM choke) 1500 W of RF at 29.7 MHz was applied for 60 seconds.
 The #10 wire in the balun got warm to the touch (after the RF was shut
 off!)
 but the core remained cool, as it should when there are no common-mode
 currents, only differential-mode current in the bifilar-wound transmission
 line.

 Now, #10 wire is roughly the same size as the inner conductor used in
 RG-213. On 10 meters the majority of loss in the bifilar transmission line
 wound around the torroid will be I-squared-R conductor loss, rather than
 additional dielectric losses that come into effect in the VHF and UHF
 regions. So, I then assume that the matched-line loss in the bifilar-wound
 transmission line is the same as that for RG-213 at HF so that I can do
 computations using TLW.

 I then used the User-Defined Transmission Lines capability in TLW as
 follows: Frequency = 28.0 MHz; Matched-Line Attenuation, dB/100 Feet =
 1.142, Velocity Factor = 0.95; R0 = 100 ohms; Computed X0 = -0.698 ohms.
 Again, a total length of three feet is assumed for the bifilar-wound
 transmission line.

 For a 3000 + j 0 load, TLW reports additional line loss due to SWR (which
 is
 30:1) of 0.416 dB, a power loss in the balun  of 137.0 W for a 1500-W
 transmitter. This level of dissipation in a physically small package will
 result in catostrophic destruction when the balun is placed at the output
 of
 the tuner.

 For a 3 + j 0 ohm load, the SWR is 33.33:1, and the total line loss is
 0.449
 dB, amounting to 147.3 W dissipation in the balun -- again, this amount of
 power in the CM choke balun would surely destroy it. The use a a
 bifilar-wound transmission line instead of RG-213 has resulted in a
 slightly
 greater susceptibility to catosphrophic destruction at low-impedance loads
 when the balun is placed at the output of the tuner.

 For a 5 + j 0 load (a 10:1 SWR), the total line loss is 0.274 dB, which for
 1500 W is 91.7 W for 1500 W input, or 30.6 W for 500 W RF input. This would
 be about the limit of safe operation for a CM choke balun placed at the
 output terminals of an antenna tuner.

 73, Dean, N6BV


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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Jim Brown
On 12/13/2011 11:48 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
 Is that a valid assumption?  I thought that much of the loss in coax is
 due to the dielectric loss of the insulation.  That implies that the
 bifilar winding should have less loss than coax.

This is a very common misconception, and it is VERY wrong below UHF for 
nearly all practical transmission lines that aren't defective (for 
example, a wet dielectric). If you do the math, you see that below UHF, 
the loss is virtually ALL due to copper (taking skin effect into account 
for both conductors).  There's an excellent paper by Frank Witt in one 
of the ARRL Antenna Compendiums (which Dean also edited) showing that 
window line exhibits significant dielectric loss at HF when it gets wet.

You can see the equation for coax on datasheets for Times LMR coax types 
on their website, with the equation for each cable type reflecting the 
physical constants for that particular cable. There are two terms, one 
for copper loss, the other for dielectric loss. Measured data for a few 
cables that I've measured track those computed curves, and if you put 
them into a spreadsheet and plot the two terms vs frequency, you can 
clearly see which terms are contributing.  I suspect that they are also 
used in Dean's TLW program. Right, Dean?

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Keith Heimbold
Dale,

That describes the noise I hear as well.

Let me know if the oil treatment works.

Regards,

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 13, 2011, at 12:29 PM, Dale Boresz d...@lightstream.net wrote:

 Hello Natan,
 
 I can hear the same thing here. Decent high frequency hearing and a 
 reasonably quiet shack are prerequisites to hearing it though. It's a 
 'sh' sound that occurs as a result of the surface of the knob 
 dragging against the felt as the VFO knob is spun. I've considered 
 applying a light coat of mineral oil to the felt washer to quiet it 
 down, but haven't tried it yet. NOTE: I am not recommending this; I was 
 just thinking about trying it...
 
 73, Dale
 WA8SRA
 
 
 
 On 12/13/2011 11:03 AM, Natan Huffman wrote:
 Hello All,
 
 Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
 accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date is
 noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or eliminate
 the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and I
 do find that noise most objectionable.
 Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
 left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or no
 drag.  No drag leaves me with a
 surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
 leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.
 
 Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
 solution?
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 
 Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
 Freeville, NY
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[Elecraft] OT: APRS igates needed in North Africa and Spain

2011-12-13 Thread Owen B. Mehegan
From www.aprs.fi:

An APRS-equipped high-altitude balloon, using the callsign K6RPT-11, 
launched from San Jose, California, has almost crossed the Atlantic 
Ocean, and is now passing Azores, and approaching North Africa. With a 
little change in direction it could as well go to Spain or Portugal! It 
was already a great success when it managed to travel to the east coast 
of the US.

There is a catch - it's transmitting on the US frequency of 144.390 
MHz instead of the usual European frequency of 144.800 MHz. That's will 
help reception, since 144.390 is very quiet around here, but we need 
some igates in Morocco, Tenerife, Canaria, Spain and Portugal to 
temporarily switch frequencies - and do it tonight!

Please help spread the word, right now, tonight, amongst igate 
operators around that area.

There might be a very fun recovery operation ahead for some hams down 
there.

See 
http://blog.aprs.fi/2011/12/k6rpt-11-aprs-balloon-approaching-north.html 
for more info and a link to the tracking data. The balloon will lose 
GPS lock as darkness falls at its location, but could still be aloft. 
Hopefully if it's still in the air at sunrise, there will be stations 
within the footprint that can receive it.

I hope this helps get the word out.

--
He is a dangerous mixture of sophistication and recklessness which 
makes one anxious about his influence on other boys.

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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Benson Wills
You might try wrapping the felt, torroid-like, with Teflon pipe thread tape. 

NE4W


Sent from my Cap'n Crunch decoder ring

On Dec 13, 2011, at 5:13 PM, Keith Heimbold ag...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Dale,
 
 That describes the noise I hear as well.
 
 Let me know if the oil treatment works.
 
 Regards,
 
 Keith
 AG6AZ
 
 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
 
 On Dec 13, 2011, at 12:29 PM, Dale Boresz d...@lightstream.net wrote:
 
 Hello Natan,
 
 I can hear the same thing here. Decent high frequency hearing and a 
 reasonably quiet shack are prerequisites to hearing it though. It's a 
 'sh' sound that occurs as a result of the surface of the knob 
 dragging against the felt as the VFO knob is spun. I've considered 
 applying a light coat of mineral oil to the felt washer to quiet it 
 down, but haven't tried it yet. NOTE: I am not recommending this; I was 
 just thinking about trying it...
 
 73, Dale
 WA8SRA
 
 
 
 On 12/13/2011 11:03 AM, Natan Huffman wrote:
 Hello All,
 
 Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
 accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date is
 noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or eliminate
 the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and I
 do find that noise most objectionable.
 Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
 left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or no
 drag.  No drag leaves me with a
 surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
 leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.
 
 Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
 solution?
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 
 Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
 Freeville, NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
Jim Brown wrote:
On 12/13/2011 11:48 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
 Is that a valid assumption?  I thought that much of the loss in coax is
 due to the dielectric loss of the insulation.  That implies that the
 bifilar winding should have less loss than coax.

This is a very common misconception, and it is VERY wrong below UHF for
nearly all practical transmission lines that aren't defective (for
example, a wet dielectric). If you do the math, you see that below UHF,
the loss is virtually ALL due to copper (taking skin effect into account
for both conductors).

Much of the confusion arises from the advertising for newer types of 
coax that have lower loss than a similar solid PE equivalent. The 
improvement is touted as being due to low loss foam dielectric when 
that simply isn't true.

The reduction in loss is almost entirely due to increase in the diameter 
of the center conductor (because that conductor has the largest current 
density and hence the highest skin effect losses). The foam dielectric 
is merely something that *has* to be used to compensate for the thicker 
center conductor, in order to keep the same characteristic impedance.

In all the coaxial cables we know in amateur radio, dielectric losses 
only begin to become important at frequencies above 1GHz.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

2011-12-13 Thread Joe K2UF
I have only had my K3 since January but no noise.  I have mine set pretty
loose.  I wonder if you could turn the pad over.  If that stops the noise
maybe just replacing the pad would work.

Joe K2UF

No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons
were inconvenienced.


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Keith Heimbold
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 5:14 PM
To: Dale Boresz
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] noisy VFO's

Dale,

That describes the noise I hear as well.

Let me know if the oil treatment works.

Regards,

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Dec 13, 2011, at 12:29 PM, Dale Boresz d...@lightstream.net wrote:

 Hello Natan,
 
 I can hear the same thing here. Decent high frequency hearing and a 
 reasonably quiet shack are prerequisites to hearing it though. It's a 
 'sh' sound that occurs as a result of the surface of the knob 
 dragging against the felt as the VFO knob is spun. I've considered 
 applying a light coat of mineral oil to the felt washer to quiet it 
 down, but haven't tried it yet. NOTE: I am not recommending this; I was 
 just thinking about trying it...
 
 73, Dale
 WA8SRA
 
 
 
 On 12/13/2011 11:03 AM, Natan Huffman wrote:
 Hello All,
 
 Last Friday I took delivery of a new K3 along with a P3 and lots of
 accessories including Fred Cady's book on the K3.  Only problem to date
is
 noisy VFO knobs.  The technique to lessen drag does decrease or
eliminate
 the noise which sounds like fingernails dragged across a chalk board and
I
 do find that noise most objectionable.
 Of course I can free myself of the noise by backing off the knobs but I'm
 left with no noise, and no drag at all.  So my choices are no noise, or
no
 drag.  No drag leaves me with a
 surprisingly free turning VFO knobs that is problematical and proper drag
 leaves me with that horrible scraping which for me is simply intolerable.
 
 Has anyone come up with this same problem and has found proper mitigation
 solution?
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 
 Natan W6XR, C6AXR, VS6KR
 Freeville, NY
 __
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I used to think that dielectric losses were a significant factor until
someone pointed out the attenuation data for various transmission lines
between 2 and 500 MHz. The plots for all the various transmission lines are
straight lines. If dielectric losses were involved, they should curve toward
the higher frequencies.

When I feed a doublet with open wire line for all-band operation with a
tuner, I use the largest conductors practicable to minimize copper losses,
especially at current loops. 

Another factor is the impedance the feed line sees at the radiator. Most
open wire line has an impedance of somewhere between 300 to 600 ohms. It the
radiator is at least 1/2 wavelength long, the impedance at the feed point
will range from about 50 ohms at 1/2 wavelength to perhaps 3500 ohms when
the radiator is 1 wavelength total. With 50 ohm line that represents a ratio
of 1:1 to 70:1. Using open wire line at, say, 450 ohms nominal, the ratio is
only between 8:1 and 9:1.  

Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
Jim Brown wrote:
On 12/13/2011 11:48 AM, Alan Bloom wrote:
 Is that a valid assumption?  I thought that much of the loss in coax is
 due to the dielectric loss of the insulation.  That implies that the
 bifilar winding should have less loss than coax.

This is a very common misconception, and it is VERY wrong below UHF for
nearly all practical transmission lines that aren't defective (for
example, a wet dielectric). If you do the math, you see that below UHF,
the loss is virtually ALL due to copper (taking skin effect into account
for both conductors).

Much of the confusion arises from the advertising for newer types of 
coax that have lower loss than a similar solid PE equivalent. The 
improvement is touted as being due to low loss foam dielectric when 
that simply isn't true.

The reduction in loss is almost entirely due to increase in the diameter 
of the center conductor (because that conductor has the largest current 
density and hence the highest skin effect losses). The foam dielectric 
is merely something that *has* to be used to compensate for the thicker 
center conductor, in order to keep the same characteristic impedance.

In all the coaxial cables we know in amateur radio, dielectric losses 
only begin to become important at frequencies above 1GHz.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun at input or output of tuner

2011-12-13 Thread Jim Brown
On 12/13/2011 2:47 PM, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
 The reduction in loss is almost entirely due to increase in the diameter
 of the center conductor (because that conductor has the largest current
 density and hence the highest skin effect losses). The foam dielectric
 is merely something that*has*  to be used to compensate for the thicker
 center conductor, in order to keep the same characteristic impedance.

Exactly!

Jim
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[Elecraft] Use of a LP filter necessary with a KPA500?

2011-12-13 Thread vtnn43e


Just finished my KPA500 and was wondering if I need to use a low-pass filter on 
the out put? In the manual for the am p I noted there is a LP filter for each 
frequency band. 

I have a Bencher YA-1 LP filter , a nd yes I know that it cuts off at 29.7MHz. 

BTW the amp is going to be used with a SteppIR BigIR vertical and a Flex-5000a. 

Zack 

N8FNR 
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[Elecraft] KX3 de référence en français (KX3 reference in French)

2011-12-13 Thread Wayne Burdick
Thomas, F4ILX, a traduit le KX3 panneau de commande de référence en  
français. Le fichier PDF peut être trouvé au bas de notre page KX3:

http://www.elecraft.com/KX3/kx3.htm

Merci, Thomas!

Wayne
N6KR





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[Elecraft] Clicks and the 10m contest

2011-12-13 Thread Ralph Parker
When I could, I paid more attention to the click problem during this
contest (after the CQ WW CW experience). Many times, some guy/guyette would
snuggle up to me and start CQing, often .500 khz away, sometimes .400 and
even .300 (measured). Obviously, my transmissions weren't interfering with
them. Meanwhile, although their S-9 signals were outside my passband
(usually I use between .400 and .250 hz), their clicks were S-6 to S-7, a
major problem when I was called by weaker signals.

I tried PREAMP on/off and AGC fast/slow/off, without noticing much difference.
I am unable to determine if the problem is with my receiver or the other
transmitters.

To try to lessen the problem, I now see the solution as this:
I need to dirty-up my signal, to keep them farther away from me.
Why should they not suffer, as I am suffering?

As far as the so-called 'mush' is concerned, I don't think it is a problem
in my case. Yes, the great unwashed all wind up on the same frequency after
clicking on their bandmaps, but I can usually outsmart them one way or
another.

I think it's time for a Q signal to tell them that they are interfering
with one another, and need to spread out a bit. How about QSO (spread out)?
Hmmm... that one's already in use. OK, how about QRM (you are being
interfered with)? I use that one, but to minimum avail. I'm open to good
suggestions. We can send the best choice to N0AX to put in his Contest
Update column, and maybe publicize it a bit.

I use another radio for the RAC 'test, to see if it fares any better.

In between contests, I'm on 10m AM with my Ranger and R-390A. No clicks there!

Ralph, VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] Use of a LP filter necessary with a KPA500?

2011-12-13 Thread Bruce Beford
Zack,

The additional LPF filter is not needed for use with the KPA500.

73,

Bruce, N1RX

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[Elecraft] [KXPA100] Any more information?

2011-12-13 Thread Matthew Pitts
Hello gang,

I was perusing the KX3 page that Wayne so kindly linked to in his message about 
the french translation of the KX3 Quick Start Guide when I noticed the pictures 
of the KXPA100 and KXAT100. I am curious about those and was wondering when we 
will find out more about them; if there is already some information available, 
please feel free to point me to it.

Matthew Pitts
N8OHU

Sent from my Wireless Device

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Re: [Elecraft] Clicks and the 10m contest

2011-12-13 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
The problem is their transmitter and/or amplifier.  But your K3 can
neutralize a lot of the clicks.

Use the noise blanker. Set CONFIG:AGC PLS to nor.  Set the NB level to IF
OFF, and dsp t1-7, t2-7, or t3-7.  Try 1-7 first, then 2-7, and finally 3-7
for really bad clicks. These three settings will round the CW bauds
in-band, with t3-7 the roundest sounding. Using the 250 8 pole filter
with the width set to 350 in the filter set-up menu, I have sometimes
knocked down clicks 6 or 7 S units.  This depends on whether the sharp
skirts on the pass band set this way turn the clicks into sharp pulses or
not, or whether they have yoopiness to them.  The K3 with AGC PLS at nor
will keep the AGC from being driven by pulses. Then it does very well
suppressing the sharp pulses in the dsp blanking, but has more problems
with yoopy clicks, because of their waveshape that lends itself less well
to detection.  Sometimes t1-7 or mostly t2-7 does it. t3-7 has a pretty
severe softening of inband bauds that some might not want to put up with.
Once in a while I need t3-7.

I operate 40m at NY4A, listening on a fixed NE 5 element wide-spaced quad
on a 220 foot catenary between towers.  Some signals, clicky ones at that,
manage 40 over 9 and are murderous without the settings above.  They
squeeze in, hoping I go away. I turn on the NB, squeeze to them a little,
keep working stations and they go away after a while. In one contest, I had
an S6 click from an EU station up 310 Hz, and operated that way for 8 hours
from 20Z to 04Z.  I'm sure my sparkling clean K3 signal was not bothering
him at all. I had him blanked out.

The dsp NB does not produce the unavoidable chop hash of the traditional
IF blanking.  That's why I turn IF blanking off.  The dsp blanking is
enough to kill clicks.

73, Guy.

On Tue, Dec 13, 2011 at 9:17 PM, Ralph Parker ve...@dccnet.com wrote:

 When I could, I paid more attention to the click problem during this
 contest (after the CQ WW CW experience). Many times, some guy/guyette would
 snuggle up to me and start CQing, often .500 khz away, sometimes .400 and
 even .300 (measured). Obviously, my transmissions weren't interfering with
 them. Meanwhile, although their S-9 signals were outside my passband
 (usually I use between .400 and .250 hz), their clicks were S-6 to S-7, a
 major problem when I was called by weaker signals.

 I tried PREAMP on/off and AGC fast/slow/off, without noticing much
 difference.
 I am unable to determine if the problem is with my receiver or the other
 transmitters.

 To try to lessen the problem, I now see the solution as this:
 I need to dirty-up my signal, to keep them farther away from me.
 Why should they not suffer, as I am suffering?

 As far as the so-called 'mush' is concerned, I don't think it is a problem
 in my case. Yes, the great unwashed all wind up on the same frequency after
 clicking on their bandmaps, but I can usually outsmart them one way or
 another.

 I think it's time for a Q signal to tell them that they are interfering
 with one another, and need to spread out a bit. How about QSO (spread out)?
 Hmmm... that one's already in use. OK, how about QRM (you are being
 interfered with)? I use that one, but to minimum avail. I'm open to good
 suggestions. We can send the best choice to N0AX to put in his Contest
 Update column, and maybe publicize it a bit.

 I use another radio for the RAC 'test, to see if it fares any better.

 In between contests, I'm on 10m AM with my Ranger and R-390A. No clicks
 there!

 Ralph, VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] More precise pitch options?

2011-12-13 Thread Gary Smith
Ah rats, I forgot to list the website...

http://jakemandell.com/

Click on Music Tests...

I have the memory of a sieve...

Gary
KA1J

 I've gotten more than a few off list comments on this and every one 

 has been a good read. I put the idea out and apparently it resonated 
 (pun intended) with many on the list.
 
 If you want to see just how connected you are to perfect pitch, how 
 well you can identify random sequences in notes and how good your 
 ability to discern rhythm then check out this web page and click on 
 the Music Tests. You will need Java to run the tests. Fwiw, 
 according to the adaptive pitch test  using my Bose QC15 headsets 
 at 61 YO I can reliably discriminate to .23 Hz. I don't have perfect 
 pitch but it is pretty close.
 
 As to the K3, I love the diversity mode on the low bands.
 
 Gary
 KA1J
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